Brewer's Ledge Treadwall AM User manual

Service Manual
Treadwall Model AM
tm
Copyright 1997 - Brewer's Ledge Inc.
C:\DOCUME~1\JEFFBR~1\DESKTOP SERVICE1.SAM 12/07/94 06/29/04
If you have any questions,
please do not hesitate to call 8:30-5
E.S.T.
1-800-707-9616.

Machine Diagram
Cable turnbuckle
Interior turnbuckle
Chain tension adjuster
Access hole
Adjustable bearing
Pulley bar
Access hole
Angle adjust
wheel
Cable guard
Locking
disk
Treadwall model AM - side view
Resistance turnbuckle
Control line Control lever
Weight line
Weight
Filler plug
Control valve
Resistance valve
Pump
Control lever

Treadwall®maintenance is easy and requires only lubrication and attention to a number of
adjustments relating to the alignment of the wall. The most important maintenance of the
Treadwall occurs during the first month of operation when the chains and cables are stretching to
their final length. It is very important to keep the angle-adjuster cables tight during this break-in
period so that the winds remain even and do not overlap. Also the drive chain and panel chains
must be tightened after 2-3 weeks of use. Instructions for these adjustments are found inside of
the control panel cover.
TREADWALL® MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Maintenance Item First month Two Months Six Months Yearly
**Drive chain X X
**Adjuster Cables X X
**Check Wall Alignment X
**Adjust Main Chain Tension X X
Clean Holds X
**Check Harness cord for wear X
**Lubricate Chains X
Grease Bearings X
** MAINTENANCE PRIORITY ITEMS
1. First month
A. Adjust the drive chain and main chains
See the inside of the control panel door for easy instructions.
People required: 1
Time required: 10 min.
Tools required: Adjustable wrench
B. Re-tighten Adjuster Cables on each side at least every week or when loose for the
first month. This is very important for the proper functioning of the angle adjustment as
the cables tend to stretch during the break-in period.
If they become loose, the cables can become tangled and break. They
should be kept firm, with no slack.
Use the turnbuckles at the back end; loosen their lock nuts, and tighten in a
correct manner, then re-tighten lock nuts.
A small screwdriver is useful for tightening the turnbuckles.
Swing wall back and forth to check after tightening. Cable turns should stay
together. Tapping cable helps to equalize both sides.
Maintenance and Service

People required: 1
Time required: 10 minutes
Tools required: Small screwdriver, small adj. wrench
2. Two Months.
A. Check Chain tension after the second month of use. Although the chains used on the
Treadwall are designed for much harder use than the Treadwall will give them, they will
stretch slightly upon breaking in. This causes the wall to become stuck. Reversing the wall
slightly frees it up, but it will soon stick again. This is caused by the panels jamming as
they try to re-enter the channels near the bottom at the back. Consequently, we
recommend taking the time after the second month to check the tension.
See the Service Bulletin # 20.
People required: 1
Time required: 10 minutes
Tools required: 9/16" wrench
B. Cleaning the holds is usually scheduled every two months. However individual usage
varies, and the amount of dirt build-up on holds has no long-term effect on the holds
themselves. Use a dishwasher to clean the dirt from holds.
If a dishwasher is not sufficient, use a scrub brush to loosen the dirt.
C. Examine the Harness Cord occasionally to check wear on the cord.
Check area of cord under the cord locks attached to the harness. If the
outer sheath is frayed, replace as soon as convenient.
The Harness Cord runs from the Harness to the Upper Pulley bar;
Replacement of the cord does not involve re-threading the cord inside the
Upper Pulley Bar.
See Service Bulletin # 7.
3. Six Months.
A. Check adjustment of Main Channels relative to the ends of the moving
climbing panels.
Look down watch the panel ends as they round the bottom: does either end
touch the channel?
By adjusting the relative tension on x-braces that run diagonally between
the two channels inside the wall, you can shift the channels relative the
moving wall.
Access the turnbuckles through the excess holes on the lower part of each
channel. The turnbuckles should be wired closed. Remove the wire, tighten
turnbuckle on the opposite side of the rubbing panels, and recheck for
clearance at the panel ends.
Ideally both ends should pass with equal clearance. You may have to
adjust both turnbuckles slightly to achieve this. Re-wire turnbuckles closed.
People required: 1
Time required: 15 minutes
Tools required: Small screwdriver, small open end wrench, pliers

B. The Main Chain and Drive Chain should be lubricated every six months.
Access chains through the access holes on the lower part of Main Channels
and the hole above the control panel.
With an assistant moving the wall slowly, direct nozzle of a spray lubricant
towards chain, and lightly coat the chain. Do both sides.
Preferably, do at the end of the day and let sit overnight with old
newspapers below to catch any drips.
We recommend a lubricant such as "Triflow" which is easily obtained at a
bike shop and does not have an adverse odor or appearance.
People required: 2 people
Time required: 20 minutes
Tools required: "Triflow" or equivalent spray lube with small tube to direct
flow.
4. Yearly Maintenance.
A. The bearings at the top and bottom shafts should be greased every year. The
bearing come pe-greased, and depending on the level of usage,. a small amount of
grease should be applied to the four bearing yearly.
Do NOT over-grease: only a small amount will be necessary.
People required: 1 person
Time required: 15 minutes
Tools required: Grease gun with bearing grease.
For service questions, please call Brewer's Ledge Inc. in Boston, Mass.
800-707-9616

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE -- TREADWALL® FITNESS CLIMBER
Problem Cause Solution
Wall is sluggish: lighter
weights will not pull wall
down.
Channels misaligned.
Chains too tight.
Internal x-bracing too
tight.
Broken angle adjuster
cable.
Valve arm misadjusted
Resistance valve
misadjusted
See Service Bulletin #20.
See Service Bulletin #20.
See Service Bulletin #20.
See Service Bulletin #4.
See Service Bulletin # 13
See Service Bulletin # 22
Wall sticks occasionally.
(Backing-up momentarily
frees wall).
Chains too loose See Service Bulletin #20.
Wall is frozen up - will not
move in either direction Panels have become soaked with water and
have swelled up.
One of the hydraulic
valves is not opening
properly.
Pump unit is frozen up.
(very unlikely)
Replace swollen panels
Check linkages and control lines. See Service Bulletins
# 13, 22
To check: first make sure valves are opening properly.
Inspect panels to make sure none are swollen or
jammed. Remove small double chain from pump
coupling to see if wall will run free. If pump is frozen
up, replace hydraulic unit.
Motor makes excessive
noise Low hydraulic oil. Add oil to Pump Assembly. Open panel, remove pipe cap, and inspect: oil should be within 3/4" of top. Use
30 wt. non-detergent oil. Rotate motor as filled to
remove air pockets. Cover fill opening with rag as
rotating to prevent spills. Total capacity of system: 1
pint.
Wall makes excessive
noise Chain too loose. Panel end screw backed
out.
See Service Bulletin #20.
Locate side that is rubbing (noisy) by means of sound
and scraped paint on inside of channels (usually at the
top). With assistant turning wall, observe ends of
panels at top: look for screw that has backed out.
Re-tighten. If stripped, remove and replace using glue
on threads.
Hydraulic unit makes
excessive noise Low hydraulic oil Add oil to pump assembly. Remove cover, remove pipe cap, and inspect: Oil should be within 1" of top.
Use 30 wt. non-detergent oil. Rotate wall as filled to
remove air pockets. Cover fill opening with rag while
rotating to prevent spills. Leave about 1/2" air pocket.
Troubleshooting Guide

Adjuster cables are
breaking or fraying. Cables windings too loose. See Service Bulletin #4.
Wall keeps rolling "under"
the climber's foot. Harness line adjusted improperly Make sure harness line is pulled tight through the line-locks before climbing.
Wall sways side-to-side. Internal x-bracing too
loose. Tighten Internal x-bracing. Do not over-tighten. Tighten until just firm and adjust for panel end
clearance (See Service Bulletin # 22).
Hold rotates. Hold bolts not
sufficiently tightened. Re-check hold bolts; re-tighten if necessary.
Wall too far to one side
(not centered in frames). Main (external) X-bracing needs
re-adjustment.
See Service Bulletin # 2.
Hydraulic Assembly leaks
oil. Valve gland-nut loose. See Service Bulletin # 6.
Cord has too much friction.
Cord is frayed or broken
inside top pulley bar.
Cord is off pulley See Service Bulletin # 8
Counter will not count Battery in counter needs
replacement (no display)
Microswitch needs
adjustment or is broken
Replace 9 volt battery - cover unscrews on back
See Service Bulletins #3 and 1.
The following Service Bulletins are included in this manual:
Service Bulletins # 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 10, 13, 18,19, 20, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 30
These Bulletins are those that pertain to standard service issues. As needed, we develop further Service Bulletins
for specific tasks.
May, 1996

Models 4 x 10, 4 x 11, 6 x 10, 6 x 11
Belt/Cords:
Belt $ 55.00
Harness Cord: Sec. w/ ring $ 9.00
Top Pulley Bar Cord $ 9.00
Mats:
Floor Mat - 4 foot wide $ 335.00
Floor Mat - 6 foot wide $ 350.00
Post Pads - each $ 45.00
Replacement Panels:
4 foot $ 35.00
6 foot $ 45.00
Adjuster Cables:
Cable alone, without shackles $ 25.00
Cable alone, with shackles $ 35.00
Cable Guards, one pair $ 30.00
Side Covers:
Top- 10 foot models, each $ 40.00
Top - 11 foot models, each $ 40.00
Bottom, 10 or 11 foot model, each $ 40.00
Set of Elastics to secure side covers $ 10.00
Backcovers, all sizes $ 180.00
Stickers/Labels:
Resistance Lever Label $ 8.00
Treadwall Logo $ 20.00
Safety Sticker "Hands Out!" $ N/C
Manuals and information:
Installation Kit $ 45.00
Starter Kit (not incl. install kit) $ 35.00
Owner's manual (all models) $ 9.95
"Climbing Tips" manual $ 9.95
Instructional Panel $ 45.00
Casters
Universal casters w/ extra post pads $ 345.00
Distance Counters - Parts:
Microswitch $ 12.00
Batteries, Standard Counter $ 1.25
Batteries, Electronic Counter $ 6.00
Electronic Counter $ 390.00
Standard Counter $ 45.00
TREADWALL® Model AM
Accessories/Parts Price List

Hydraulic unit:
Complete lhydraulic unit $ 450.00
Casters:
Universal Set w/ extra post pad $ 345.00
Manuals/Video:
"Climbing Tips" manual $ 9.95
Programming video $ 9.50
Paint Supplies:
Panel paint - one gallon $ 26.00
Panel paint - touch-up can w/ brush $ 13.50
Climbing Holds:
6' Set complete $ 475.00
4' set complete $ 347.50
Granite or Sandstone, each $ 7.90
Large Artificial holds, each $ 13.00
(See "Holds Ordering Sheet" for more information. All holds come with bolts.)
All non-government orders shipped COD unless prepaid.
All Prices subject to change without notice.
Prices do not include the cost of shipping. Please specify your preferred method of shipping.
Brewer's Ledge Inc.
34 Brookley Road
Jamaica Plain, MA 02130 USA
1-(800)-707-9616
(617)-983-5244
(617)-983-5261 Fax
8/5/97

INDEX OF SERVICE BULLETINS
Treadwalltm Climbing Simulator -- Model AM
Number
1 Panel Removal
2 Frame Adj. w/ X-brace
3 Adjustment of the internal Microswitch
4 Replacement of Cables - Angle Adjuster
6 Gland Nut Adjustment - Hydraulic Valves
7 Harness Cord Upgrade and Adjustment
8 Replacement of Brake Control line - Upper Pulley Bar
10 Adjustment of Chain Tension
13 Valve Arm Adjustment
18 Hold placement
19 Pump alignment and pump shaft fit
20 Adjustments for a stiff Treadwall - AM
22 Resistance rod adjustment
23 Replacement of tee nut on Treadwall panels
26 Replacing pump Woodruff key
27 Securing internal x-bracing
28 Moving the Treadwall
30 Attaching split ring to weight line to prevent fraying
Copyright 1997, Brewer's Ledge Inc.

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #1: Panel removal
The Treadwall wall panels are bolted to a set of chains. These two chains form a continuous loop around
the top and bottom axles. Each panel is attached by two bolts at the ends to flanges mounted on the
chains.
Tools needed: 1/8" Allen wrench, 3/8" box end or open end wrench, needle nosed pliers.
Panel hardware: 10-32 x 1 1/2" socket-head, flat-head bolts. 10-32 nylon locknuts.
Removing a panel is simple and requires about 15 minutes effort. Depending on the type of side channels
your unit has, there are two methods for removing a panel. NOTE: Before choosing a panel to remove,
examine the bolts - during installation the holes for the Allen keys may have become slightly distorted.
Choose a panel with non-distorted holes (i.e.. the Allen wrench slips in the 4 bolts easily...).
Method # 1 ( side channels with a 2" round access hole)
Rotate wall so desired panel is at the bottom. This will give access the locknuts inside the panels. You
may wish to lie on your side to reach the locknuts.
With the Allen wrench and open end wrench, remove the four bolts and their locknuts. The panel will
drop down. Rotate the wall to give the desired height, and perform what ever service is necessary.
Removal of more than one panel may be accomplished at standing position by reaching in through the first
open panel and accessing the locknuts of the panel below.
Replacement of the panel must also be done at the bottom. Use the needle nosed pliers to hold the
locknuts in position. Note that if you have removed more than one panel, these may be replaced by
slipping them in at the bottom, rotating the wall upwards, and re-inserting the bolts in standing position.
MAKE SURE TO ORIENT PANELS SO THAT PANEL BARS AND HOLD-MOUNTING HOLES
ALTERNATE!!
Method #2 (channels with a 2" x 5" rectangular hole)
Rotate wall so that desired panel is in front of the rectangular opening. Remove four panel bolts and their
locknuts by using the opening to access the back. Rotate the wall downward and allow the panel to drop
out at bottom. Multiple panels can be removed in a similar manner. Rotate the wall to give the desired
height, and perform what ever service is necessary. Replace panels by inserting panel at bottom and
rotating upward until it is in front of rectangular opening. Replace all four bolts.
MAKE SURE TO ORIENT PANELS SO THAT PANEL BARS AND HOLD-MOUNTING HOLES
ALTERNATE!!
Access
hole
Panel bolts: four total
Side
Channel
P

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #2: FRAME ADJUSTMENT WITH
"X-BRACING"
Adjustment of the Treadwall frame by means of the "X-Bracing" in the back allows the wall to
be centered between the main side frames. It is important both for angle adjustment as well as
the wall's performance that the wall be centered.
With the wall at vertical, note the gaps between the side channels and the two main side
frames. When the wall is centered, the gap on the right side (just below the angle-adjuster
wheel) should be 3"
If the wall needs adjustment, loosen both turnbuckles at the bottom of the "X-Braces" in the
back; re-tighten on the side to which you wish swing the wall. For example, if the wall is too
close to the right side, you will need to tighten the right "X-bracing" to bring the wall closer to the
right side.
You may find as you tighten one side, you will have to continue to loosen the opposite
turnbuckle to give yourself enough slack.
"X-bracing"
and
Turnbuckles
"X-bracing"
and
Turnbuckles
note that channels
should be parallel
to the frames
VIEW FROM BACK
OF TREADWALL
3"

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #3: Adjustment of microswitch
The Treadwall counter is activated by a simple microswitch which counts every other 6" panel, each
click/count indicating 1' of distance. The microswitch is mounted inside the panels with its arm passing
over every other panel stiffener bar. This arm movement (clicking sound) breaks a tiny electrical
current from the counter which causes a "count".
Access to the microswitch is by removal of a panel . The wall is then rotated to expose the microswitch.
See Service Bulletin No. 1 "Removal of a Panel".
If a counter is not working, check the following items:
a. Examine the microswitch; is the arm is bent and aligned correctly? See diagram below.
b. Is the counter itself working properly? This can be checked by removing one wire from the
microswitch and touching it to the other wire - the counter should register each touch.
c. If the microswitch was just installed, check to ensure you have attached one wire to the
terminal marked "common", with the other to either remaining terminal.
If you are installing a new microswitch, be sure to mount the switch on the correct side of the bracket so
that the arm clicks over every other panel bar. Depending on the bracket supplied with your machine,
the microswitch will have to be mounted on the inner or outer side of the bracket. It may only go in one
position to catch every other panel.
Test microswitch at all angles; there is some variation in panel position depending on angle.
Panel
IMPORTANT: The most frequent
cause of failure is misadjustment of
the switch arm. Make sure it works
properly with the wall moving both
forward and backwards! at all angles.
Test bent arm - a clicking
sound should be heard each time it
passes over a panel bar.
Panels.
Make sure switch counts every other bar...place switch
on correct side of bracket.
Make sure raised tip does not catch
opposite panel bars as they descend!
Microswitch
Panel Bars

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #4: REPLACING CABLES
1. Tools needed:
Ball peen hammer
A small box wrench with closed end. (Exact size not important.)
2. Procedure (Same on both sides):
Removing...
1. Lock wall in a position so hole in Adjuster Pipe faces up (Note how cable dips into hole
near the center of the windings and is locked in place with a bolt inside pipe.)
2. Lift side cover.
3. Remove chrome Adjuster wheel (right side) or plastic cap (left side) from the end of
Adjuster Pipe. The wheel simply unscrews from the pipe. To remove it, engage the
locking disk to the channel and turn the wheel hard to the left. Remove the ball from
the locking rod and slip the wheel off.
4. Loosen and disassemble turnbuckle. Slip the end of the cable through the guide loop.
5. Remove Cable Guard.
6. Using the closed end of a wrench, reach into Adjuster Pipe end and pull out bolt that
holds cable to pipe.
7. Remove shackle from front loop, and cable will come free.
Installing...
1. New cable is pre-bent at a certain spot. Push this bend into Adjuster Pipe hole so that
end with shackle leads to back of machine. (After winding, the cable will leave pipe at
bottom as in fig. 1. and shackle will go towards front of machine)
2. Re-insert bolt to catch the loop of cable inside
pipe.
3. Pull up on cable to take-up all cable slack around
the bolt that is inside pipe.
4. Hammer down cable on both sides where it exits
the hole. No need to pound cable excessively;
this is just to put a bend in cable so it will exit
hole and lay nicely around pipe.
5. Wrap the shackle end around pipe so as to follow
a left hand thread as shown in fig. 1. Important:
On earlier Treadwalls, the cables were wound
as a right hand thread. Even if only one cable is
being replaced, both cables must be wound the
same way. Check the other cable and rewind it
if it is not like fig. 1. Also, both cable guards will
have to be replaced in this case to accommodate the new winding.
fi
g
. 1
carefully
note direction
of wind.

6. The number of wraps will be clear from the length of the cable: the shackle and
turnbuckle will only reach when the correct number of turns is on the pipe.
7. Put on shackle.
8. Wrap turnbuckle end and lead up through corner loop at back of unit.
9. Hook turnbuckle and tighten. Make sure wraps of cable on pipe are evenly wound and
tight together as you tighten turnbuckle.
10. Re-install chrome Adjuster wheel and by swinging wall front and back, stretch new
cable. Re-tighten turnbuckle.
11. Repeat above step at least a dozen times to stretch cable, tightening turnbuckle to
take up slack.
12. Keep turnbuckle tight - do not be afraid to tighten turnbuckle with new cable.
13. When cable is stretched, it is time to install the cable guard. Slip the cable guard over
the windings so that one hook is engaged with the back end of the cable. Loosen the
turnbuckle a few turns. Now hold the windings at the bottom of the pipe to keep them
from loosening, and with your other hand remove the shackle from the front loop.
Continue to hold the windings in place while you work the front end of the cable under
the other hook. Re-attach the shackle and tighten the turnbuckle. This process is
easier than it sounds as long as you don't let go of the windings. You might want to
have someone help with the shackle.
14. Make sure cable wrappings inside the guard are still tight together when you are
finished - this may involve using the hammer and wrench to tap the windings back
together after you have begun to re-tighten turnbuckle.
15. Swing wall front and back to make sure all is working and look for windings that are
spread apart.
16. Once more, tighten turnbuckles to remove any slack.
17. Tighten locking nut on turnbuckle.
18. Note: Cables can be sprayed with silicone spray to significantly increase their
life expectancy
*****PLEASE re-tighten cables each day for the first 4 days to ensure proper working.*****
(Bulletin # 4 - page 2)

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #6: Valve adjustment
The brake-control valve on the Treadwall sometimes needs adjustment after the initial
break-in period. If there is any oil leakage from the stem of this valve, the gland nut must be
tightened.
1. Remove the top right fabric side cover.
2. Remove cover from hydraulic unit at top right of machine. The cover slips off to the right. It
is held in place by two lugs at the top of the frame.
3. With a 9/16" wrench, remove the long lever from the control valve. Note the orientation of
the lever before removing.
4. Refer to fig. 2 and locate the small setscrew and gland nut on the control valve. The small
setscrew (1/16" Allen wrench) keeps the gland nut from loosening during operation of the
Treadwall.
5. Loosen the small setscrew approximately 1 turn.
6. Tighten the gland nut with a 9/16" combination wrench or socket. It will only need to be
tightened a fraction of a turn. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten.
7. Re-tighten the small setscrew. Do not over-tighten.
8. Replace the control lever arm onto the valve. Be extremely careful when replacing the
valve-stem nut - it is very easy to cross-thread. Tighten this nut firmly
9. Run the machine and check for leaks.
10. If the pump makes unusual noises and operates erratically, you may need to add oil.
Remove the filler plug at the top of the pump unit and check the level. The oil should come
to about 1/2" from the top. If the level is low, add 30 weight non-detergent motor oil
(available at auto-parts store - used in small four-cycle lawnmowers etc.) While adding oil,
run the machine around a bit to get out any air bubbles. You will probably end up with oil
right to the top. Make a little air-pocket for the filler plug by sticking your finger into the
opening (have a rag on hand!!) and replace the plug. Wipe off any excess oil..
11. When the machine is operating smoothly, close the control panel and replace the
side-cover.
Valve stem
Gland nut
Small setscrew
Control valve
Fig. 2 Valve (detail)

Treadwall®Service Bulletin # 7: HARNESS CORD UPGRADE
AND/or REPLACEMENT
Enclosed is the replacement harness for the Treadwalltm Climbing Simulator. While you're at
it, you can upgrade the machine to the latest configuration:
If your Treadwall does not have a metal ring tied to the control line where it comes out of the
machine at the top, you will have to shorten the current control line on your machine. First tie a
loop in the control line like the loop in the harness line we have sent. The control line loop
should be about 1 or 2 inches below the top of the machine where it exits the "TREADWALL"
bar. Pull on the line a few times to make sure this loop come back up to the right point.
Next, attach the ring on the new harness to the loop you have just tied. This will make it so
that you can easily replace the harness cord without disturbing the control line in the machine.
Finally, cut off the excess control line near the knot and heat seal the end by melting it with a
lighter.
If you want to take off the harness for any reason, leave the metal ring on the machine so that
there is no possibility of the control line being pulled into the machine and losing the end.
Pocket (holds excess
Line lock
Attach end of harness line here
Attach line lock here
Harness
Control line
Metal ring
Harness line
(tied to ring
Harness line
at top)
This shows how the harness line and line
lock are attached to the harness. Note that there
are a couple of feet of excess harness line. If
the climber jumps off the machine, the extra
harness line will pull through the line-lock and
prevent breakage of the cords. Store the
excess harness line in the pocket while
climbing.
harness line)

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #8: Replacing the Treadwall
control line.
Fig. 1 shows the upper pulley bar from the front. Above the middle pulley there is an access
hole that can be reached from the top of the machine, behind the pulley bar shroud as shown.
Another access hole is on the right side of the pulley bar and its location is shown in both
pictures.
If the old line is still in place, tie the new line to it and pull it through.
If the old line has been removed, you will have to make a special tool from a wire coathanger.
Straighten the coathanger and make a small hook in one end.
Take the new line and pass it up through the pulley bar at point (a) and straight up through the
access hole. Tie a small knot in this end of the line. Now take your coathanger tool and push it
into the side access hole and over the center pulley until you can hook the control line and pull it
over to the right and out of the hole. It is then an easy job to work the line back over the other
pulley and into the frame pulley as shown in Fig. 2
access hole (behind panel)
TREADWALL
pulleys
access hole
(on side)
Fig. 1
pulley bar
(a)
Run the line as shown in
Fig. 2 and tie off at the
welded loop. When the
brake lever is at its resting
position, the ring on the
control line should be just
an inch or two under the
pulley bar as shown in Fig.
1.
pulley
pulley
access hole
Brake
valve
Resistance
valve
Drain plug
Reservoir
Filler cap
Valve arms
Fig. 2

Treadwall®Service Bulletin #10
Adjustment of chain tension
The main chains that suspend the panels on the Treadewall may stretch in the course of the
first few months of use. If this happens, the panels will be loose as they move around the
bottom and up the back, and they will jam as they attempt to enter the channel in the back
(see diagram). Symptom: Machine jams up and will not go forward. Reversing the wall
slightly frees it but it jams up again.
The chain tension is adjusted by moving down the bearing on the bottom of each channel.
There is a push-down bolt above each bearing that will move it down (see diagram).
It is usually not necessary to loosen the mounting bolts on the bearings to use the tension
adjuster, but if they are excessively tight, loosen them slightly.
Turn the push-down bolt with a wrench to push the bearing down. Do not overtighten the
chains. You just want to take out the excessive slack.
As you tighten the bearing, wiggle the lower panel as shown in the diagram. Look down in the
rectangular hole to see where the chain meets the toothed sprocket. When the bearing is
adjusted properly, the chain will still pull away from the sprocket slightly as you wiggle the
panel. If you adjust the chains too tightly there will be excessive friction and the machine
will operate sluggishly.
Usually a turn or two of the push-down bolt is plenty. Adjust both sides.
Front of
Treadwall Rear
If chains are loose, panel
will catch here and stop
the machine.
Tension adjuster
Bearing Mounting bolts-
Bottom of right channel (take off lower sidecovers)
Look down inside channel
to see where the chain
meets the sprocket.
Wiggle this panel
as you adjust the
chain.
(loosen slightly if necessary)
(push-down bolt) The panel should enter the
channel with about 1/2"
clearance between the
panel and the flange.

TREADWALL
SERVICE BULLETIN
#13:
VALVE ARM
ADJUSTMENT
Two views of the Valve Arm.
valve handle
lever
Valve lever in closed position. Note
short valve handle is close to vertical.
Valve in open position. Note that the
short valve handle is close to horizontal
-almost parallel to valve axis.
This angle (between the
valve handle and the lever)
determines how high you are on
the wall when the brakes
release. To raise the
brake-point, straighten the angle
slightly. To lower the
brake-point, angle it more. The
angle shown in the diagram is a
good starting point
To adjust angle:
1) Loosen top bolt that holds
valve handle to lever (the one
with a large washer)
2) Adjust angle between lever