Copper Tun Beer Keg System User manual

Beer Keg System Manual

BEER KEG SYSTEM MANUAL
Your Copper Tun
Beer Keg System has
everything you need to
get started kegging and
dispensing your own
beer on tap at home.

your keg system includes:
• Two Reconditioned 19 Litre Ball Lock Kegs
• CO2 Regulator
• Plastic Gas Disconnect (Grey)
• Plastic Liquid Disconnect (Black)
• Either a Hand Gun OR a Fridge Tap
• 3.6 metre length of 5mm gas/beer line
• Stainless Hose Clamps x 4
You will also need:
• CO2 bottle
• Converted fridge to hold your kegs
• Tubing for transferring your beer to the keg.
• Clearing cube
Setting up your keg system
KEGS:
Your keg system contains two reconditioned
19L Ball Lock Stainless Steel kegs. These have a
hatch cover for ease of cleaning and lling. They
include gas in and beer out valves, and a safety
release valve.
DISCONNECTS:
The kegs have ball lock (snap lock) ttings. The
ball lock is made from hardened plastic and
works on the same principal as your standard
garden hose tting. They click on and click off for
easy connection and disconnection of the beer
and gas lines from the keg. The grey disconnect
is for the gas (IN) side of the keg and the black
one is for the dispensing (OUT) side of the keg.
CO2GAS BOTTLE:
A gas bottle is not supplied with your keg set.
Gas bottles are available for hire from your
local CO2 gas supplier. Some of your local gas
suppliers will probably include BOC Gases and
Air Liquide. There is usually a nominal monthly
hire charge and then a charge each time the
bottle is lled. The gas bottles come in various
sizes, the most common and easiest to handle is
the “D” size bottle. This is a bit taller than knee
height and weighs less than 20kg. Other sizes
are available but can be quite heavy and difcult
to move, as well as a bit unsightly.
REGULATOR:
A full CO2 bottle holds a pressure of about 5600
kpa (800 psi), which is a lot more than the 250-
300 kpa (35-47 psi) you need to pressurise your
keg system. The regulator screws onto the gas
bottle and reduces the pressure to safe levels.
The regulator is adjusted by a knob, setscrew or
bolt depending on the regulator supplied.
There are two gauges on the regulator, one
displaying the gas bottle pressure and the other
displaying the pressure inside the keg. The CO2
in the bottle starts out as a liquid. The pressure
of the gas in the headspace of the bottle will
be between 5000-5600 kpa (700-800 psi)
depending on the temperature of the bottle.
The pressure gauge on the regulator showing
high pressure from the gas in the bottle will only
begin to fall when all the liquid is gone, so the
best way to determine how much CO2 remains
in the bottle is by weight not pressure. It’s a
good idea to make a habit of weighing your
bottle when you rst get it. The bottle will be
weighed and stamped when empty. The empty
bottle weight is on a tag around the neck of the
bottle.

PREPARING THE FRIDGE:
The easiest way of protecting and serving your
beer is by storing the kegs in a fridge. Like
bottled beer your kegs will need to be kept
cold. You may need to remove some or all of
the shelves and you may also have to level the
base, particularly if it is an older style fridge.
Drill a small hole to bring the gas line from
the regulator into the fridge. Whether you
choose the side or back of the fridge depends
on preference and the location of existing
wires and plumbing. Try to use a drill bit just
large enough to allow the gas line to t snugly
through the hole. Before sealing the gas line
check there is sufcient length of line to reach
the gas bottle which will be stored outside the
fridge. Seal the gas line using a pair of nip end
pliers to crimp the hose provided.
If your keg system is going to have a beer gun
it’s just a matter of cutting the beer line to a
length that suits you and attaching the gun to
one end of the line and the beer disconnect to
the other. The length of line should be between
1.5 and 2 metres long.
If you choose to have a tap, there are more
holes to be drilled. If you require the tap to be
tted onto the door of the fridge then make
sure there is enough beer line so that the door
can be opened fully. If you decide to have the
tap tted to the door, when the back nut is
tightened it may collapse the wall of the fridge
door. We have found a small length of PVC
pipe pushed over the shank of the tap allows
the tap to be tightened so that it is secure,
without damaging the wall of the door.
Using your keg system
FERMENTING YOUR BEER:
Ferment your beer in the normal way. When
fermentation is complete add Copper Tun Beer
Finings and stand in a cool place. If you’re using
a Heat Pad turn it off. It will usually take 2 days to
settle and for the beer to become bright. When
the beer is clear it is time to transfer your beer
to the keg.
CLEANING AND STERILISING YOUR KEG:
Cleaning and sterilizing are not the same thing
and it’s essential to do both. Cleaning removes
the dirt and stains to make equipment ready
for sterilizing, and sterilizing prevents nasties
ruining your beer.
BEER KEG SYSTEM MANUAL
Important: Make sure all power is
disconnected prior to drilling. Take care
when drilling any holes through the walls of
your fridge, the wiring systems and cooling
systems will vary from fridge to fridge.

Cleaning your keg:
Copper Tun Cold Water Cleaner / Detergent
is a powerful cleaner, removing dirt, stains and
undesirable micro-organisms, restoring surfaces
to original condition.
• Release any pressure in the keg by operating
the pressure relief valve. Remove the lid and
rinse out any remaining beer from the previous
batch.
• Fill the keg with 5L of cold water and add a
sachet of Cleaner Detergent. Use this solution
to thoroughly wash the inside of the keg. For
stubborn stains use a brush..
• Top the keg up until it’s full and leave to stand
for 10 minutes.
• Empty the keg and rinse with cold water to
remove detergent residue.
Sterilizing your keg:
Copper Tun No Rinse Sterilizer effectively
sterilizes your equipment with active oxygen
and breaks down to leave only oxygen, water
and minerals found naturally in water. No Rinse
Sterilizer is different to conventional alkaline
powdered sterilizers as it requires no rinsing off
after sterilizing.
• Fill the keg with 5L of Water and add a sachet
of No Rinse Sterilizer. Stir thoroughly to ensure
all dissolved. Top up with water to within 25 mm
of the gas inlet tube (approximately 19 litres).
Let stand for 10 minutes.
• Fit the hatch cover and connect up the gas
connect to the IN post and the tap to the OUT
post.
• Adjust the pressure to 70kpa (10psi) and open
the tap to run some sterilizer through the beer
line and out the tap.
• Let stand for 5 minutes and repeat process to
sterilize the inside of the beer line. Disconnect
the gas inlet and release the pressure from
inside the keg.
• Disconnect the gas and empty out the keg.
TRANSFERRING YOUR BEER TO THE KEG:
Fit a length of sterilised tubing to your fermenter
tap. This tubing should be long enough to reach
the bottom of the keg so that you ll the keg
from the bottom without splashing the beer.
You will notice that there is a tube in the keg
running from the top of the keg to the centre
at the bottom. This is called the Dip Tube and
is used to draw the beer from the keg. There is
also another tube that is quite short in length.
This is the CO2 inlet, where the CO2 is injected
into the beer.
Your keg should be lled to approximately 12-
25 mm (1/2 to 1 inch) from the bottom of this
tube. Any remaining beer can be bottled using
2 Brewcraft Carbonation Drops for each 750 ml
bottle, making sure to seal the bottle securely.
Once the keg is full, replace the hatch cover and
move keg to the prepared fridge. Assuming
your gas line was cut to length it should be
long enough to reach outside the fridge so you
can connect it to the gas bottle. Turn the gas
bottle on and set the pressure on the regulator
to between 70 and 100 kpa (10 - 15 psi) and
connect the gas line to the keg.
PRIMING THE KEG WITH CO2:
You need to purge the headspace of the keg of
any oxygen to protect the beer from oxidisation.
By releasing the pressure release valve, the
CO2 will ow into the keg and the air will ow
out through this valve. This is called burping the
keg and is best done in three short bursts.
CARBONATING:
The absorption of the CO2 into your beer can
depend on many things, most particularly the
temperature of the beer, the pressure at which
it is applied and the length of time pressure is
applied.
The CO2 will be absorbed at a faster rate when
the beer is cold (the beer will not absorb gas
at room temperature) so if you apply 230kpa

BEER KEG SYSTEM MANUAL
(32 psi) continually for 2 days under normal
refrigeration temperature (4 deg. C) your
beer should be gassed correctly. Reduce the
pressure to the dispensing pressure of 70kpa
(10psi) and test for carbonation.
To reduce the pressure in the keg, turn down
the pressure on the regulator by unscrewing
the adjuster. Vent the keg to reduce excess
pressure then slowly screw the adjuster in until
the new pressure is achieved. If liquid is forced
back into the regulator then it may be damaged
beyond repair.
When you are satised with the level of
carbonation leave the keg at the dispensing
pressure and it will not absorb any more gas
even under refrigeration.
Remember that the amount of carbonation your
beer needs is dependent on several factors:
• Dispensing temperature
• Beer style
• Personal preference
• Type of tap used
Your exact situation may need some trial and
error to nd what is best for you. For example
with an English style Bitter you may prefer a
lower rate of carbonation but with a German
Weizen you may want it more effervescent. The
rate of carbonation is entirely up to you.
If you have over carbonated your keg in error
then gas can be removed from the keg. Turn
off the gas bottle and vent the gas from the
headspace by releasing the pressure relief valve.
Leave the gas bottle off and let stand for 1 hour
while you repeatedly release any gas from the
headspace. This will release some of the gas
that is dissolved in the beer. When you have
removed enough gas you can again turn on the
gas and test. Repeat if necessary.
DISPENSING:
Now for the good part - pulling that rst beer!
First reduce your keg from carbonating pressure
to dispensing pressure.
Do this by turning down the set screw on the
regulator. If the pressure doesn’t come down as
you turn the screw you may have to vent the keg
using the safety relief valve to release the excess
pressure. A suggested dispensing pressure
is 70kpa (10 psi).
Even if the beer was clear when you kegged it,
you will still get some settlement at the bottom
of the keg, so the rst glass may be a little
cloudy. We suggest pulling a couple of glasses
through until it clears. Whether using a gun or
a tap always dispense with it fully open, if it is
only part way opened you will end up with all
froth and no beer. Dispensing, like carbonating,
can be trial and error - plenty of practice will see
you right!
www.brewcraft.net
Your keg should be filled to approximately 12-25 mm (1/2 to 1 inch) from the bottom of this tube. Any remaining beer
can be bottled using 2 Brewcraft Carbonation Drops for each 750 ml bottle, making sure to seal the bottle securely.
Once the keg is full, replace the hatch cover and move keg to the prepared fridge. Assuming your gas line was cut to
length it should be long enough to reach outside the fridge so you can connect it to the gas bottle. Turn the gas bottle
on and set the pressure on the regulator to between 70 and 100 kpa (10 - 15 psi) and connect the gas line to the keg.
PRIMING THE KEG WITH CO2:
You need to purge the headspace of the keg of any oxygen to protect the beer from oxidisation. By releasing the pres-
sure release valve, the CO2will flow into the keg and the air will flow out through this valve. This is called burping the
keg and is best done in three short bursts.
CARBONATING:
The absorption of the CO2into your beer can depend on many things, most particularly the temperature of the beer, the
pressure at which it is applied and the length of time pressure is applied.
The CO2will be absorbed at a faster rate when the beer is cold (the beer will not absorb gas at room temperature) so if
you apply 230kpa (32 psi) continually for 2 days under normal refrigeration temperature (4oC) your beer should be
gassed correctly. Reduce the pressure to the dispensing pressure of 70kpa (10psi) and test for carbonation.
To reduce the pressure in the keg, turn down the pressure on the regulator by unscrewing the adjuster. Vent the keg to
reduce excess pressure then slowly screw the adjuster in until the new pressure is achieved. If liquid is forced back
into the regulator then it may be damaged beyond repair.
When you are satisfied with the level of carbonation leave the keg at the dispensing pressure and it will not absorb any
more gas even under refrigeration.
Remember that the amount of carbonation your beer needs is dependent on several factors:
dispensing temperature
beer style
personal preference
type of tap used
Your exact situation may need some trial and error to find what is best for you. For example with an English style Bitter
you may prefer a lower rate of carbonation but with a German Weizen you may want it more effervescent. The rate of
carbonation is entirely up to you.
If you have over carbonated your keg in error then gas can be removed from the keg. Turn off the gas bottle and vent
the gas from the headspace by releasing the pressure relief valve. Leave the gas bottle off and let stand for 1 hour
while you repeatedly release any gas from the headspace. This will release some of the gas that is dissolved in the
beer. When you have removed enough gas you can again turn on the gas and test. Repeat if necessary.
DISPENSING:
Now for the good part - pulling that first beer! First reduce your keg from carbonating pressure to dispensing pressure.
Do this by turning down the set screw on the regulator. If the pressure doesn't come down as you turn the screw you
may have to vent the keg using the safety relief valve to release the excess pressure. A suggested dispensing pressure
is 70kpa (10 psi).
Even if the beer was clear when you kegged it, you will still get some settlement at the bottom of the keg, so the first
glass may be a little cloudy. We suggest pulling a couple of glasses through until it clears. Whether using a gun or a tap
always dispense with it fully open, if it is only part way opened you will end up with all froth and no beer. Dispensing,
like carbonating, can be trial and error - plenty of practice will see you right!
HELPFUL POINTS TO NOTE:
x To convert kpa to psi - Divide kpa by 7 (7 kpa = 1psi).
x Beer matures quicker in kegs than in bottles.
x The beer will keep indefinitely in the keg as long as you have been careful with cleaning and sterilising. As the
beer is dispensed it is replaced by sterile CO2, this protects the beer while dispensing.
x To further improve the clarity of your kegged beer, transfer the cleared beer into a clearing cube and store in a
fridge for 3 days prior to transferring to the keg. This should be done at the time that you add the finings. This
will further reduce any sediment that will be transferred into your keg.
www.brewcraft.net
Beer Keg System
The complete guide to kegging and dispensing your beer.
Reorder Code: 72118
Edition: 25/01/08

HELPFUL POINTS TO NOTE:
To convert kpa to psi
Divide kpa by 7 (7 kpa = 1psi).
Beer matures quicker in kegs than in bottles.
The beer will keep indenitely in the keg as
long as you have been careful with cleaning
and sterilising. As the beer is dispensed it is
replaced by sterile CO2, this protects the beer
while dispensing.
To further improve the clarity of your kegged
beer, transfer the cleared beer into a clearing
cube and store in a fridge for 3 days prior to
transferring to the keg. This should be done at
the time that you add the nings. This will further
reduce any sediment that will be transferred into
your keg.

Your local Copper Tun stockist
Reorder # 72118
www.coppertun.com