Farrier marine F-22 User manual

Revised August 15, 2012

Includes F-22, F-82, F-85SR, F-32, F-32SR, F-36, F-39,

F-41, F-44SC, and all variations

Sailing Manual For All

Farrier Designs

This manual has been compiled to help you to operate your Farrier

design with safety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, and

information on its operation and maintenance. Please read it care-

fully and familiarize yourself with your trimaran before using it.

If this is your first sailboat or multihull, for your own comfort or

safety, please ensure that you obtain handling and operating expe-

rience before assuming command of the craft. Your national sailing

federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sailing

schools or competent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE

PLACE, AND PASS ON TO THE NEW

OWNER WHEN YOU SELL YOUR BOAT

If required, a replacement copy of this Manual can be

purchased from Farrier Marine, current contact details

being available from www.f-boat.com

Design_____________________

Sail Number___________

Owner 1. __________________________ Owner 2. _________________________ Owner 3. ________________________

________________________________ ________________________________ _______________________________

_______________________________ ________________________________ _______________________________

This Sailing Manual is the copyrighted property of Farrier Marine,

and is not to be used for any unauthorized purpose.

Contents

General............................................... 3

Preparation.......................................... 3

Loading .............................................. 3

Safety Compartment........................... 4

Outboard Motor.................................. 4

Trailering ............................................5

Rigging................................................6

Launching........................................... 9

Mast Raising On The Water................ 11

Daggerboard & Centerboard ..............11

Rudder........................................................... 12

Mast Setup..................................................12

Sailing..........................................................13

The Basics......................................... 13

Reefing.............................................. 14

Rotating Mast Control.......................15

Windward Performance.....................16

Reaching............................................17

Screacher........................................... 17

Spinnaker...........................................17

Spinnaker Jibing................................18

Spinnaker Sailing Downwind............18

Safe Sailing Recommendations.........19

Sailing Hints......................................20

Anchoring............................................23

Beaching..............................................23

Retrieving To Trailer ..........................23

De-rigging .......................................... 24

Lifting Out.......................................... 25

Marina Docking.................................. 25

Safety...................................................26

Unsinkability..................................... 27

Offshore Sailing ............................... 27

Capsize.............................................. 28

Righting.............................................29

Personal Responsibility ....................30

Safety In General ..............................30

Technical Notes...................................31

Winch line......................................... 31

Spring Retaining Clips...................... 31

Launching......................................... 31

Hoisting Mainsail.............................. 31

Bearing Away.................................... 31

Heavy Helm...................................... 31

Rudder/Daggerboard hum.................31

Rudder Ventilation............................ 31

Stay/Shroud Tensioners.................... 32

Compression Pads............................. 32

Beam Bolts........................................ 32

Wingnets............................................32

Bimini Top Storage............................33

Float/Beam Vents.............................. 33

Rust....................................................33

Cleaning Floats..................................33

Clean Boat Hint.................................33

Collision............................................ 33

Hurricane Survival............................ 34

Folding Assistance.............................35

SPECIFICATIONS ..........................36

Typical Trailer Setup ..........................39

Typical Deck Layout...........................40

F-32 Raising Mast.............................. 41

F-22 Sail Plan..................................... 42

F-82 Sail Plan..................................... 43

F-32 Sail Plan..................................... 44

F-33 Sail Plan......................................45

F-36 Sail Plan......................................46

F-39 Sail Plan......................................47

F-41 Sail Plan......................................48

Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........49

Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........50

Fire Precautions.................................. 51

Safe Sailing Recommendations...........52

FARRIER MARINE,

www.f-boat.com

and batteries, life buoy, flares, a chart of the area to be

sailed, food, water, and adequate fuel.

Multihulls should be treated like aircraft when it comes

to loading. Farrier designs are light, responsive craft, and

due to their narrow waterline do not have an unlimited

load carrying ability. Overloading can affect performance

and handling, while excessive overloading can also

affect safety margins, the ratio of float buoyancy relative

to the total weight becoming lower. A higher ratio is faster

and safer. Always be conscious of weight and avoid

carrying unnecessary items.

The load-carrying capacity of the different Farrier

designs is listed under Specifications towards the back of

this manual. Some overloading is acceptable for general

sailing in sheltered waters, the only adverse effect being

a loss in performance. However, an overloaded boat

offshore in large waves can become dangerous due to

greater loads generated in the structure, and the slug-

gishness which can prevent the boat from rising to go

over or with the waves, as it should.

When storing supplies, try to keep all heavy items

located as low down as possible and in the forward end

of the cabin. Avoid storing any heavy items aft of the

main entry hatch inside, as too much weight aft can cause

transom drag, affecting performance. Farrier designs

have a very buoyant bow, which actually lifts at speed,

and additional weight should always be kept forward

rather than aft.

GENERAL

This manual contains important information about the safe

operation and maintenance of your Farrier designed trima-

ran. Read it carefully, become familiar with the procedures

described, and follow the recommendations to help make your

sailing enjoyable and trouble-free.

Your Farrier trimaran is designed and built as a high

performance family cruising yacht, which when used as

intended, with its enormous stability and unsinkability, is

one of the safest, most comfortable, and fastest sailboats

afloat. However, while speed is an important advantage,

it should be remembered that it is not necessarily the

most important multihull feature. Slow gentle sailing can

be even more enjoyable when combined with the

multihull's spacious and level decks to lounge on.

As you become familiar with your boat, you may

discover alternative methods of operation that have

advantages. We would appreciate if you would share

these with us so that we can share them with other

owners and this can be done on the F-boat forum, of

which there are several, as listed at.

http://www.f-boat.com/pages/forum.html

PREPARATION

Before going sailing, you will need to provide the

proper safety equipment as required by local regulations.

This should include life jackets for all crew members,

safety harnesses for children, anchor, compass, bilge

pump, fog horn, First Aid kit, fire extinguishers, flashlight

The first 5 Trailertris of different types on the beach in Moreton Bay (Brisbane), Queensland. Farrier designs have now been

sailing world wide for over 35 years, and the experience from all these years is the basis for this manual.

Should your model have float storage, avoid heavy

loads in the floats. These should only be used for light

bulky items such as sails, fenders etc. Heavy weight in

the ends of any boat, be it the bow, stern, or floats, can

adversely affect the general motion.

To maintain a light boat, and that sparkling edge of

performance, it is highly recommended that you go

through everything on board several times a year, and

take off any items that do not get used. This prevents the

gradual buildup of unnecessary weight.

SAFETY COMPARTMENT

Before sailing, it is important that the Safety Compart-

ment be loaded with the appropriate safety gear. This

compartment is accessible from top or bottom and should

have been built in as per the plans.

Its purpose is to keep important safety equipment that

should be available to the crew in any emergency situa-

tion, especially a capsize. The equipment stored here

should include flares, a handheld VHF radio, EPIRB

(offshore), extra line, spare tools, cutting implements etc.

in watertight bags (this is not a watertight compart-

ment).

WARNING: No multihull should venture offshore

without safety gear in such a compartment that

must be accessible from under the craft

OUTBOARD MOTOR

The recommended motor size is given in the specifi-

cations in your original literature and later in this Manual.

This is more than adequate for most circumstances.

A long shaft motor is the minimum required, and the

extra long 25" shaft motors are the best. A remote

control can also help make operation very easy with aft

cabin models. With weight being important, try to choose

the lightest possible outboard.

There are a number of specialist ‘Sail Boat’ motors

now available and some of these are designed for heavy,

hard to push, displacement boats, and their propellers

are effectively ’geared down’ to give high thrust at low

speeds. However, Farrier trimarans have a very easily

driven hull and may not need such a propeller. The result

can be the same as always driving your car in low gear.

You will have plenty of thrust, but speed is low, and

economy can be poor. These motors do have advan-

tages, and if used, you may need to experiment with

different propellers to get the best and most efficient

performance.

Refer to the engine manual for details of operation,

maintenance and winter storage. Always be sure you

have enough fuel for your planned trip.

The motor can be used while the floats are extended

or folded and should always be tilted up when sailing.

An F-22 on the trailer, with outboard and daggerboard rudder. This type of rudder can be lifted fully up for local

trailering or removed altogether for long distance trips. Note separate light bar high up and well clear of water

nected to the towing vehicle. Independent wiring avoids

the frequent breakdowns that occur with wiring through

the trailer being attacked by saltwater. When the trailer is

being towed on its own, the lights can be mounted directly

to the trailer.

Before trailering, check that tires are inflated correctly,

the beam locking pins are in place, the rudder is fully up

and secure, the pop-top or hatch is secured, and the boat

is tied down to the trailer. There should always be one tie-

down per side, these being looped around the winches or

brackets on the cockpit coamings, and tied to the tie-

down loops on the trailer. The bow eye should also be tied

down to the winch post, in addition to the winch line.

Check that all the trailer supports always bear equally

against the hulls. Use extra ties for long distances.

When trailering, BE SURE to pivot up or remove the

trailer jockey wheel, and check that the hitch is locked on

to the ball.

Should the mast extend aft past the trailer lights by

more than the legal amount, the appropriate warning flag

should be tied on the back. If mast extends too far aft it

can be positioned further forward which will eliminate any

excessive overhang. However, this may not be possible

if the towing vehicle is a tall van.

When trailering, always allow extra distance for stop-

ping. Particularly watch for low bridges, overhanging

trees or awnings etc. If necessary, the boat can be

partially unfolded on the trailer in order to pass under a

low bridge.

CAUTION

Measure and KNOW overall height on the trailer.

Care should then be taken to avoid all low

overhead bridges, awnings or roofs.

Daggerboard or

centerboard SHOULD

ALWAYS BE DOWN

when motoring, which

will prevent sideways

movement. If not, the

boat will tend to have a

hovercraft like motion

with wide skidding

turns. Having the board

fully down means that

handling will always be

excellent.

TRAILERING

The total towing

weight can vary con-

siderably, depending

on the design and op-

tions fitted. The actual

weight can be deter-

mined exactly by using

a weighbridge.

Check also that the

vehicle is approved and equipped as recommended by

its manufacturer for towing this weight, and the capacity

of the towing hitch is suitable.

While towing, watch for strong crosswinds. A Farrier

design is a relatively light boat for towing, but it still has

considerable windage. For easy, stable towing, the trailer

should be balanced to have 8 to 10% of the total weight

on the coupling ball. This can be measured by a bath-

room scale. If you find ‘fish tailing’ occurs, increase this

tongue weight. If necessary, a simple change like shifting

the gas tank or outboard forward can make a consider-

able difference to trailer behavior.

Trailer lights can be fitted either on special brackets or

as a separate light bar on the boat’s transom. They are

best independent from the trailer, as the wiring then never

gets near the water, considerably improving reliability. If

separate, be sure to fit the correct lights on the appropri-

ate sides. The wire should be run along the top of the

boat, looped around the foredeck cleat and then con-

An F-33 on trailer, separate light bar in place on aft mast support, and daggerboard

rudder blade removed for trailering . Lights can also be separately mounted each side

(see below left), and this makes it much easier to store in vehicle.

Trailer lights are mounted separately each side on this F-27

Mast raising pole in position on an F-28 with winch line

connected to jib halyard, ready to raise mast. Depending on

design, take care that rotating mast is restrained once up so

that it cannot topple forwards. This can be done by using the

Corsair type Highfield Lever to connect shrouds to float

chainplates, on older designs like F-28 and F-31. Modern

designs like the F-22 or F-32 do not require these.

RIGGING

The following is a general rigging procedure and

applies to all designs. For ease of rigging, it is highly

recommended that you follow this general procedure, as

it has been developed from hundreds of launchings and

proven to be fast, easy and efficient.

CAUTION

Always park into the wind, or uphill, to help the

mast stay in line while being raised. Trailer should

remain hooked to towing vehicle

Two should be able to completely rig an F-22 or F-32

ready to launch within 15 - 25 minutes of arriving at the

ramp by using the correct procedure. It is possible in fact,

for F-22 to be launched, unfolded, and sailing within 12

minutes. One person should be able to have the F-32

rigged and launched in around 30 - 35 minutes. However,

note that loading any extra gear or supplies onto the boat

is not counted in these times.

DANGER

Before starting to rig, check that there are no

powerlines that the mast could touch, either while

being raised or moved to launch ramp

Don’t be dismayed if it takes you considerably longer the

first few times out. It will take a little practice to become

familiar with the procedures, and the more you rig the

boat, the easier and quicker it will become. However, it is

very important to follow a set procedure each time.

Recommended Set-Up Procedure Is As Follows:

1. Remove the trailer tie-downs, and the trailer lights.

The tie-downs can be tied together and used as the bow

line for launching. Saves stowing them, and then finding

a bow line.

2. Undo the trailer winch hook, and pull some slack so

that the hook will pass over the bow or mast raising roller.

Place on the foredeck.

3. Place the mast raising pole on the foredeck ready

for use. Climb onto the bow using nonskid areas on the

float bows as stepping points.

CAUTION

The float bows can be slippery. Particularly warn

children to take care when climbing up or down

4. Move aft alongside the mast undoing the mast ties

(at each end) and the rigging ties as you go.

5. Lift the forward end of the mast and walk aft, rolling

the mast on the aft mast roller while checking that the

rigging lines or wires do not catch. Stop once the mast

foot is over the pivot brackets. Now’s the time to fit any

masthead indicator to the top of the mast. Lift the mast

up until the indicator can be fitted to the masthead from

the ground behind the boat. If rigging single-handed, the

mast can usually be balanced in this position to do this.

With rotating masts, the mast yoke will now need to be

fitted to the mast foot using the through pin (yoke can also

be fitted prior to rolling mast back, or be left on the foot at

prior de-rigging). This can vary with different models so

check specific drawings for your particular step (can be

downloaded from F-boat forum files)

6. The mast foot is now connected to the mast step as

follows:

F-22: Slots onto pin in step.

F-82: Pinned to brackets on cabin roof.

F-9A: Plugged onto pin in deck step.

F-9R: Attach yoke to deck brackets with fast pins

F-32: Slots onto pin in step.

In some cases, it may be necessary to push the mast

firmly aft to fit to step. If difficult, check that all stays are

clear, the terminals into the mast have not snagged

sideways, and the mast is centered on the aft roller.

F-22 mast rolled back and attached to the deck pivot

brackets, with mast raising pole in place.

7. If required, fit the mast raising

wires, running from an eye on the mast

to the side anchors on the cabin roof

(aligned with the mast pivot point). These

raising wire anchors can be chainplates,

or 'lift up loops' depending on design.

Some designs such as the F-27 and F-

25A use the lower shrouds to stabilize

mast.

Note that the length of these raising

wires should be adjustable and they

should be slightly loose and monitored

on the first mast raising. This is to ensure

they cannot become overtight during the

initial raising procedure. They should

never be more than moderately tight,

and, once adjusted and set, need no

further monitoring or adjustment. Avoid

any line here as it stretches too much.

An alternative to raising wires is to

use spinnaker or screacher halyards. These can also

provide an extra backup in difficult conditions, but they

take longer to setup. If used, they must be cleated to

bottom of mast.

8. Position the mast raising pole on the mast or in the

yoke socket. Attach the wire from the top of the pole to

the eye on the front of the mast, with the pole being

approximately perpendicular to the mast.

If considered necessary, (strong cross winds or single-

handed) additional light side lines can be fitted from the

pole end to the raising wire anchors (as shown above) to

stabilize pole better sideways.

Where a yoke is used (rotating masts) the length of

the wire from the pole to the mast can also be adjusted,

and a little experimenting will give an almost perfect

moderate tension on the raising wires throughout the

complete raising procedure.

9. Take the trailer winch line hook, pull it back over

the pole and then connect it to the jib halyard (after it

has been unhooked from the mast). Winch

line should extend at least two feet (60cm)

aft of the mast pole fork.

10. Now check the following:

a. All halyards are positioned or led

correctly from the base of the mast, and

that jib halyard is SECURELY TIED OFF to

the cleat on side of mast.

b. Rotating mast shrouds to floats

should be positioned so as to avoid catch-

ing on anything which can cause damage

during raising procedure.

Later models (F-22 & F-32) always

leave the stays attached to floats, but on

many earlier models stays have to be

released to fold. In this case a solution is to

use a Highfield lever to attach shroud to float chain-

plate (photo on Page 23). Otherwise a block and

tackle can be used to attach shroud to aft beam area

on float, but be careful that mast is always supported

when up and raising wires have been removed.

CAUTION

With rotating masts, the side stays must always

be connected to the floats, otherwise there is a

danger of mast toppling forward if over winched.

11. The mast is now winched up, CHECKING AGAIN

FOR POWERLINES.

Check to see that all rigging wires are clear and have

not snagged anywhere, particularly aft chainplates on F-

9As. Raising wires should initially be slightly loose, and

Raising wire Deck Loops - these work well to anchor raising

wires as they can fold down to be flush on deck when not in

use. F-33 mast step with raising pole yoke shown above and

below left. The same basic mast raising setup applies for

both on trailer or on water mast raising.

tighten slightly on the way up.

If the mast raising pole tends to twist sideways then

this can be controlled by light lines to the raising wire

anchors as mentioned earlier.

CAUTION

During mast raising, it is very important to be alert

to all items of rigging lifting or supporting the mast.

If any resistance to raising is felt at any point,

STOP, and check nothing has fouled. Do not

proceed until any obstruction is clear

Check that the socket in the rotating mast foot aligns

correctly with the pivot ball on the deck with earlier

rotating masts, as the mast nears the fully up position.

Monitor the float stays with rotating masts on initial

rigging to ensure they do not become too tight or catch on

anything during raising.

Corsair models with rotating masts use custom High-

field levers to connect side stays to the float chainplates

and these give the stays just enough slack for the mast

to be fully raised when the float is folded, while preventing

any danger of the mast toppling forward.

These Highfield levers can be purchased from Corsair

and are an important safeguard against accidently

dropping the mast while folding or unfolding, provided

they are not disconnected from chainplate. The more

modern Farrier designs (F-22, F-32, and F-32SR) do not

need these levers, as their latest folding geometry allows

boat to be folded without detaching the side stays.

CAUTION

Winch operator should be careful to ensure trailer

winch line lays evenly across the drum while mast

is being raised. With an offset bow roller there can

be a tendency for incoming line to pile up on one

side of the drum to where it can suddenly slip off.

Larger masts can be heavy, with high loads, and extra

care should be taken to ensure they do not swing too far

sideways. Never park in a cross wind or sideways on a

slope, unless extra help is available to steady mast.

12. Connect forestay once the mast is fully up. At initial

rigging, mast rake should be set to around 3 to 4, which

is slightly more than the rake of the aft edge of the forward

beams when viewed from the side. Once initial adjust-

ment has been done, the forestay turnbuckle does not

need to be undone during normal rigging or de-

rigging, only the clevis pin is removed or inserted.

Lower and intermediate shrouds on the fixed F-27, F-

9A/F-31 mast remain connected during all rigging

and de-rigging procedures. After the initial adjustment,

there is also no need to undo these or disconnect them

from the shroud chainplates.

13. Once forestay is connected, slacken off the trailer

winch, disconnect jib halyard, and return it to the mast.

Mast raising wires may need to stay attached until after the

boat is unfolded, depending on model. F-28 shown.

F-31R/F-9R mast half way up, winch line just about to

leave 'cradle' on raising pole. Watch float shroud

turnbuckles if fitted, as they are easily snagged and bent.

If one has to park on a side slope or be in a cross wind,

then it is also a good idea to have someone on deck to

stabilize mast or raising pole, or use extra side lines to

stabilize pole, particularly on larger models.

Remove raising pole etc., rewind the

winch and reconnect hook to the bow

eye.

Leave rotating mast raising wires

attached to the mast, as these may still

be required for support until after the

floats are unfolded and stays are prop-

erly connected to floats.

14. The topping lift is now discon-

nected from the mast lower end and

connected to the end of the boom to help

take the weight. Remove the sail bag

from the mainsail/boom and connect the

boom to the mast.

15. Tighten all the battens in the

mainsail, if required. Connect the main-

sheet to the boom. Feed the mainsail

head into the track on the mast and connect the main

halyard

16. If required, run all the halyard lines from the mast

through the turning blocks back to the correct rope

clutches on the aft end of the cabin roof.

17. Connect the mast electric plug if required.

18. The headsail can be fitted now if wished, or after

launching. The sheets are laid out and connected to the

clew (sheets can be kept in the anchor well for quick

access). The headsail can be kept under control by a

shockcord which can be left on the foredeck for this

purpose. Just keep it hooked to the toerail or pulpit.

19. Fit or untie rudder so it is ready for use (still

retracted), and check that daggerboard up-line is cleated.

Outboard motor should also be in the up position.

20. The aft mast support is now removed and stored.

WARNING

Before taking boat to the water check there are no

powerlines that the mast could touch

LAUNCHING

Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer is

submerged up until just past the inward bend of the side

frame members (about 6 to 8' back from the winch post).

Disconnect winch hook and push the boat off while

holding on to the bow line, or you can get on board

(having started the motor first). Be careful of crosswinds

or wind from the stern. The boat, with its shallow draft, will

move quickly sideways in such conditions, and you

should not launch until there is sufficient maneuvering

room alongside.

This ability to go sideways is one drawback of shallow

draft, and you should always make allowances when

launching/retrieving or under power. First priority at

every launch should be to LOWER DAGGERBOARD!

This helps to prevent any sideways movement, and gives

excellent maneuverability under power.

Some models are large boats to handle at ramps, but

because of their lightness, are easy to move around. The

trick is not to fight it, but to plan ahead what you are going

to do, and gently guide it in the correct direction.

An offshore wind at the ramp is ideal, as the boat will

lie quietly downwind at the end of the bow line. It 's then

just a simple matter of boarding over the float bows, and

backing off or just walking her over to a boarding dock, if

available.

An onshore wind is the most difficult, as the boat will

swing sideways once launched, and come towards the

ramp. In this situation the boat should be held off the ramp

from a central position on the side. You will find a balance

point where it will lie evenly until you are ready to board.

If a dock is alongside it is a good idea to run a stern line

to the dock, so that the stern can be pulled to the dock

after launching, thus preventing it from swinging around.

A good way of launching in all conditions, if extra help

is available, is for someone on board to start the motor

before launching, and simply back the boat away from the

ramp, remembering to immediately drop the dagger-

board once clear of trailer.

Launching an F-33

Folding stability is good, but it is limited, so don't push your

luck. A few owners have managed to roll their folded boats

over. Take particular care with tall rigged Rversions, and

avoid tight fast turns in strong cross winds.

beam locking pins, place your foot on the top of the

upper folding strut, grasp the top of the beam and pull

downwards, while pushing with your foot.

WARNING

Always check that no one has their foot or hand in

or near beam recess when folding as the beams

can come down quickly!

The float will unfold, but be careful it doesn’t pick up

too much speed towards the end. Hold the beam down

and tighten the bolts using a speed wrench. These bolts

should be tightened firmly, but NOT OVERTIGHTENED.

WARNING

The beam bolts must always be in place and

tightened before sailing

If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOP

and see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. It is usually

a wingnet catching. Should it be difficult to hold beams

down to tighten the bolts, then usual cause is wingnets

that have been lashed too tightly.

It is not necessary to hold both forward and aft beams

when folding, one person operating either beam is all that

is required, except for larger designs. The wingnets will

extend and tighten themselves. There is a knack in

unfolding of using both your foot to push on the upper

folding strut and your hands to pull the top of the beam in

and down. After a few tries you will find it easy to do.

The side stays are now secured correctly to the float

chainplates, where required. They may already be at-

tached with rotating masts, or where the stays have

Highfield levers fitted. Just close the levers to tension.

With the F-27 & F-9/F-31 fixed mast, the turnbuckle

must be directly connected to chainplate, and there

should be just enough slack in the wire (but not too

much - which can overload tensioners) to insert the

clevis pins. The stays are then tensioned by the block and

All designs are always launched folded, and unfolding

can be done either at the dock, or while motoring away,

even in choppy conditions. Folded stability is good, but

it is limited, particularly on bigger boats like the F-9

& F-32, and even LESS so with 'R' masts.

Take care in strong winds, as it is possible to roll boat

over! If necessary, immediately unfold at least one side

to avoid any risk. The F-32 has a secondary wider folded

beam of 9' 6" which improves folded stability, and if an F-

32R, or motoring very far while folded, use this position.

WARNING

Always take care in strong winds while fully folded

and with mast up. A combination of a fast tight turn

and mast windage and weight could cause a roll

over in such conditions. If in doubt, unfold one or

both sides to eliminate this danger.

See also http://www.f-boat.com/foldedstability/

To unfold, first check that there are no ropes across

the beam recesses, and the tiller is clear. Remove the

Turnbuckles have now been replaced by deadeyes and

lashing on later models - much lighter and easier on boat

F-33 being unfolded at dock. Folding is harder on larger

designs with low profile beams and foot should be placed on

Upper Folding Strut for leverage. May take two, or block

and tackle assistance can be used if necessary - see later.

tackle tensioners anchored at the aft beams and at-

tached to the shackle located about 4' up the top stays.

Pull these on firmly, checking that the mast is straight.

The first time out, both tensioner lines should be marked

when the mast is straight, as a reference for future use

and adjustment.

These tensioners on fixed masts need considerable

tightening when going to windward in high winds, as they

keep the mast straight and forestay tight for good point-

ing. Avoid letting the leeward shroud become too loose.

Once adjusted at initial launching, turnbuckles should

not require to be adjusted during subsequent launchings.

Just release the Highfield levers with rotating masts or

turnbuckles from the chainplate with fixed masts.

Rotating mast side stays only need to be moderately

tight, even slightly loose, as a tight rig can restrict rotation.

Thus synthetic stays and the latest deadeye tensioners

can be used with rotating masts, and these save consid-

erable weight aloft, and are much easier to handle.

Once the mast is properly supported by the stays, the

mast raising wires (where needed) can be removed.

The spinnaker pole bowsprit can now be fitted or

extended depending on model.

MAST RAISING ON THE WATER

It may be necessary to sometimes launch with mast

down and raise it later. To do this you will need an

additional strong block to attach to the bow roller/stem

fitting. A spinnaker sheet block is ideal and can be lashed

around bow if no suitable fitting is present. The mast

raising pole/yoke must also be carried on board.

Once in clear water, follow the same mast setup and

raising procedures listed under RIGGING, but instead of

the trailer winch line, a line from a sheet winch to the bow

block, and then back to the jib halyard is used to winch up.

The procedure is reversed for lowering.

BOARDS

The daggerboard or centerboard have two control

lines, one to pull up (red) and one to pull down (blue). The

daggerboard will not kick back, and should break off if it

ever hits bottom hard enough. This protects the dagger-

board case from damage in most cases - a much more

expensive repair.

CAUTION

Even at low speeds, a grounding can cause the

crew to be thrown forward, and care should be

taken to avoid this. Slow down in shallow water.

Obviously, one should always be careful around shal-

low waters, keeping alert, and the boat speed

down. The daggerboard is very strong and will

only break off with an exceptionally hard

grounding. Normally you can expect the boat

to come to a shuddering stop, with no dam-

age, should you hit bottom at speeds less than

5 knots or so. It’s then just a matter of retract-

ing the daggerboard and continuing on your

way.

The daggerboard case itself is exception-

ally strong, and is not likely to be damaged in

a grounding, though this cannot be guaran-

teed. But even with a lost daggerboard, your

Farrier trimaran will still be sailable, and will

still go to windward. In this case you should

allow her to heel as far as possible, submerg-

ing the lee float to pick up lateral area.

The centerboard, as is optional for the F-

F-27 shroud tensioner - these are used to take up the slack

necessary to allow easy connection of the stay to float

chainplate after unfolding.

22, F-82, F-32, and F-36, can kick

back and is thus less likely to be

damaged in a grounding. However, it

should only be cleated in a cleat that

will let go at a certain load to avoid any

damage. A clam cleat with the teeth

filed slightly to reduce holding power

can be used for this. Never use a horn

cleat to hold the centerboard down.

When maneuvering in confined

waters always have the board down.

This promotes quick turns, prevent-

ing any sideways motion. In general,

the board should always be down,

except perhaps when running down-

wind in light conditions. However, no

speed advantage has ever been found

for this, so probably easier to just

leave it down.

The board should always be half to fully down when

running or reaching in heavy winds or seas. It greatly

enhances directional control, keeping the tiller very light.

Should you at any time find the helm heavy, then

the causes could be the daggerboard being up, the

rudder has kicked back slightly (always watch for this),

or is not raked forward enough. Another possible

cause can be the mainsail sheeted in too tight (a

common fault). Even in the strongest winds, or the

fastest 20 knot spinnaker run, the helm should always

be light enough for easy one-handed control. If not,

you should check for reasons why.

RUDDER

Kick back rudders were used on all earlier designs, but

these do not work well in shallow water. Later designs

now have lift up daggerboard rudders, which are much

more effective. It is just a simple pull up or push down, and

depth/wetted area can be varied to suit the situation.

The daggerboard blade can also kick back in some

models, or is designed so that case aft end strip will shear

out in any grounding, so boat escapes any damage.

The earlier kick back rudders still work well and have

two control lines, one to pull up and one to pull down.

These should be color coded, with red (for danger) to pull

up, blue, for deep water, to pull down. The rudder will kick

back, should it hit bottom hard enough, the pull down line

pulling through the cleat.

At high speeds, the cleat alone may not be enough to

hold rudder down. In this case, a lock/shear pin can be

fitted through the case and blade as a positive lock down.

It is also a good idea to fit a horn cleat on the tiller as

a backup, but this should only be used if the hold down

cleat is worn, and the lock/shear pin is not available.

Never use the horn cleat where there is a danger of

grounding.

The rudder is held in the up position by the pull up line,

except with transom hung rudders, where the pull down

line can actually work better once the rudder is lifted

vertically.

MAST SETUP

Rig tension and mast setup are very important for

good sailing performance and while rotating masts do not

require much rig tension (to allow full mast rotation), most

owners do not tension the fixed mast rigs enough. To

avoid this, a simple rig tension gauge (Loos Type recom-

mended) available at Marine stores can be purchased,

and this includes hints on tensioning your rig. Rigging

wire will stretch a little initially and all settings should be

checked after a few sails.

Rotating masts can use synthetic rigging, which will

stretch a little more, but this does not matter on a rotating

mast. Synthetic rigging is much lighter, easier on the

boat, easier to handle, and is now the recommended

choice.

Depending on type, synthetic rigging will stretch more

the first time out, sometimes considerably, so it needs to

be tightened up as you go. But once the initial stretching

phase is over it becomes very stable and only needs the

occasional check.

All masts should be set up with some prebend (center

of mast pushed forward). This will range from as little as

F-33 daggerboard rudder, with blade fully down

F-22 daggerboard rudder lifted partially up. The best solution for shallow water

SAILING

This manual is not intended to be a Sailing

Instruction Manual, and it is presumed that all owners

will have a basic sailing knowledge and skill. There are

however, many aspects of sailing a Farrier trimaran

efficiently, and the following covers some of these:

THE BASICS

The mainsail is usually hoisted first. Turn directly into

the wind and commence pulling on the halyard. You may

find winching necessary to get the main fully up, and if

fitted, use the jib halyard winch. If the boom roller furling

system is fitted, the main will automatically unroll from the

boom. Winch the halyard tight until all the wrinkles just

disappear from the mainsail luff, no tighter, and lock the

halyard with the rope clutch. The topping lift can now be

eased.

All models sail and tack easily under mainsail alone,

unless a non-standard mainsail with an oversize square-

top/roach has been fitted. These can be impossible to

tack main only, plus be dangerous downwind.

If you have a lot of tacking to clear a channel then it

may be much easier with just the main. You don’t have to

worry about tacking the jib, you won’t be going too fast,

particularly in crowded waters, and visibility is excellent.

The correct technique for sailing mainsail only is to

sheet it free to avoid choking the boat. The traveller can

be locked on the centerline, and the mainsheet slack-

ened off so the boom is about 12" out from center. Your

boat speed should be 5 - 6 knots in 10 to 15 knots of wind,

even better with a rotating mast. If less, then the problem

is an oversheeted main or trying to point too high.

There is a technique involved in sailing main only, and

3/4" with Rotating masts (even less with wing masts), to

3 to 5" with fixed masts. Mainsail should then be cut to

suit this.

There is no correct amount of prebend as such, other

than each mast should have some, as it will help stabilize

the mast, and it can also be used to control the mainsail

shape to some degree. This means that if the mainsail is

cut for say 3" prebend, less will make the main fuller for

light airs. More will tend to flatten the main for windy

conditions.

Prebend in Rotating masts is harder to adjust in this

regard, but the ability to rotate the mast can give an even

greater control over mainsail fullness.

For good windward performance the forestay MUST

BE TIGHT and this is essential. Fixed masts can increase

forestay tension by pulling on the shroud tensioners,

along with more mainsheet tension. Rotating masts can

only use mainsheet tension, but the superior mainsail

shape due to the rotating mast, more than makes up for

any jib luff sag

An important rule, vital to the well being of all masts,

particularly fixed masts, is to be sure that your leeward

cap shroud never becomes TOO LOOSE. Some loose-

ness is not unusual, but if it is very loose and visibly

flopping around, you could risk losing your mast.

To tighten the shrouds on a fixed mast while under-

way, you can use the spinnaker winches on the tensioners,

or else snug up the leeward tensioner a set amount to just

remove any slack. Now tack and pull on the other side an

equal amount. It is easier to tension the leeward shroud

rather than the windward one.

On the F-9/F-31 fixed mast the top shroud's tension in

heavy weather should always be 2500lbs or more..........

Don’t forget to relieve this when not sailing.

Even an extreme racer like the F-32SR can sail well main

only, provided mainsail roach is not oversize

once learned how, it is a very relaxed

form of sailing. The secret is to keep

the main eased out more, particularly

after a tack. Don’t try to point high until

boat speed has built up.

Jib halyard can now be connected

and the jib hoisted. Tighten until the

wrinkles just disappear from the jib luff,

using the halyard winch if needed.

There's no need to go any tighter. As

the wind increases you will find the

halyard will need tightening, again, just

enough to just get the wrinkles out.

Sheet the jib and you are sailing!

If available, two additional controls

may be added to the mainsail at this

stage, these being the boom vang (fixed

masts only) which just snaps on, and

the Cunningham eye tackle. A min. 4:1

fiddle block with cleat is snap shackled

to the mast step, and the line from the top fiddle block is

passed through the Cunningham eye on the sail and

connected to the horn cleat on the other side of the mast.

This will give an 8 : 1 purchase, and should be adjusted

to just remove the wrinkles from the mainsail luff. Neither

of these controls are essential for everyday sailing, their

main purpose being to give more efficient control over the

mainsail. Both must be removed when roller furling.

Farrier trimarans are sailed like any other yacht, the

most notable differences being the response, lightness of

helm, and low angle of heel. This ranges from an average

of 5 to 10 degrees to a maximum of about 15 degrees.

Pointing ability is excellent, but care must be taken not

to oversheet or try to point too high. Just a few degrees

less pointing, with sheets slackened slightly, can see

boat speed jump from 6 or 7 knots to 9 or 10 knots.

When reaching, the headsail shape can be improved

by using a barber hauler. This is a line hooked to the

headsail clew, or a small block on the jib sheet (allows

easier tacking), then led to a block attached to an eye on

the float deck and then back to a camcleat on the cockpit

coaming. Two barber haulers give a wide range of sheet

adjustment. One can also be used on the boom to hold it

down while running or reaching. This is more effective

than a traditional boom vang and a good safety feature to

prevent an unexpected jibe.

For the best performance while running, weight should

be kept forward. At least one crew member should sit on

the main hull bow when racing downwind. This reduces

wetted area and can make a significant difference.

REEFING

Several different reefing systems can be fitted, and all

the various operation procedures are well documented.

With jiffy reefing, the reefing lines are led inside the boom

to cleats at the forward end, and if necessary down to the

mast base and then back to a winch.

A roller reefing boom is also optional and this is a very

effective reefing system, being fast, easy to operate, and

infinitely adjustable. The other main advantage is the

ability to easily roll up the mainsail for storage.





Rolled Main

Cunningham Eye line

Eye should also be

lashed around mast

Mast

Roller Furling Boom

Furled mainsail

Boom vang and Cunningham eye controls on an F-27 -

Boom vangs are not used with rotating masts as they will

restrict rotation

Jib barber hauler in use on an F-27 - will considerably boost performance

To reef, first disconnect the boom vang (if fitted) and

Cunningham eye tackle. The topping lift should also now

be used to lift the back of the boom a couple of inches

above horizontal. This stops the main from creeping

forward to bind against the mast when furling. This may

not be required, depending on the cut of the mainsail.

Now take the main halyard around the winch and

release the rope clutch. Go forward with the halyard held

in hand, unlock the furling handle and begin turning. As

the main is rolled down, let the halyard slowly run out to

suit. When the main is rolled up sufficiently, lock the

furling handle, let off the topping lift, return to the cockpit

and retension the halyard. Reefing is complete.

You should always try to locate the head of the reefed

mainsail close to or just above a staying point, rather than

in the middle of a mast panel. This avoids unwanted

bending loads on any unsupported mast section.

As mentioned previously, if you find a problem with the

F-28 Mainsail being roller furled. Note foot being used to

control halyard.

Main neatly roller reefed on an F-27

mainsail rolling up close to and jamming against the

mast, this is usually caused by not lifting the end of the

boom sufficiently with the topping lift.

You may also find it easier to regulate the speed at

which the halyard runs out, as you wind the boom, by

using the ball of your foot on the line just before it enters

the mast.

The boom vang cannot be reconnected, but with the

barber hauler system available, if needed, from the

floats, this is not of any importance.

The Cunningham eye tackle can be connected to the

reefing tack eye if wished, as shown, and again used to

tension the luff as required.

It is also advisable to take a line from the Cunningham

eye forward and around the mast. This avoids the possi-

bility of the bolt rope pulling out of the mast groove.

Boomless Mains: These are reefed differently and

can in fact be easier to reef. Luff is reefed the same as jiffy

reefing, using basically an extra long Cunningham Eye

tackle, with a single line threaded through the first reefing

eye. One pull and luff is reefed. It is also a good idea to

take a line around front of mast if reef is likely to last a

while, to ensure main luff cannot pull away from mast.

Leach end uses a rope clutch on side of clew board,

with a line running from opposite side of clewboard, up

through reefing eye, and back down to rope clutch. One

pull and leach is reefed. No need to disconnect main

sheet which just stays attached to clew eye.

ROTATING MAST CONTROL

The correct rotation of a rotating mast will give a much

more efficient and powerful mainsail. It is thus important

that the rig not be set up too tight as this can prevent full

rotation.

There are many opinions on what the correct amount

of rotation should be, but a general guideline is to keep

the mast rotated enough to give a smooth, even transition

from the mast to the mainsail on the leeward side.

An F-25C with boomless main and reefed

than an equivalent monohull, but this may not be the

fastest way to windward. A good multihull is capable of

much higher speeds to windward than a mono, which

also brings the apparent wind forward, to where pointing

will be lower, but the speed to windward is much greater.

One thing to avoid is oversheeting the headsail, as

while pulling this on very tight will guarantee a good

pointing angle, the boat speed may be slow. The correct

way is to let the sheet out 1 - 2 “ from being tight on, so

that curve of the headsail leach matches the curve of the

mainsail. It should then not backwind the main, and your

pointing angle and boat speed should both be excellent.

Once you have achieved good boat speed, then

experiment by tightening sheets a little, pointing slightly

higher, while trying to maintain the same boat speed.

The mainsail traveller should be around 6" to wind-

ward in lighter conditions, then around the centerline in

moderate winds, and, as the wind increases, moved to

leeward slightly with more mainsheet tension being ap-

plied. In very strong winds the mainsheet should be

pulled on as tight as possible. Stand above it and pull it

on as hard as you can - most sailors don't have this tight

enough in strong winds. A tight mainsheet helps keep

forestay straight for good pointing ability.

If the jib is backwinding the main,

open the slot, by moving the traveller a

little more to center. Keeping an open

slot between jib and main is crucial to

good windward performance, as any back

winding of the main will choke the boat.

Equally as important, the jib must be

relatively flat with NO HOOK in the leach,

and not oversheeted. Leach battens are

highly recommended to keep the leach

flat.

If set up and sailed correctly, a Farrier

trimaran will match the windward ability

of the best monohull racers, 20 to 30%

larger. Pointing high and going fast is

one of the hardest things to achieve in

any boat, but with a little care and tuning

a Farrier design is one of the best.

The amount of rotation will depend on the type and

shape of mast, and can range from 35 to 90 degrees from

the boat centerline. A good rule of thumb is for the mast

to be rotated around 40 to 50 degrees more than the

boom.

40°

CLOSE HAULED WITH MAST AT 40°

RELA TI V E TO BOOM

Avoid allowing the mast to rotate or swing back and

forth, which can happen in light winds combined with

waves, or when sailing off the wind with less sail pres-

sure. This is usually prevented by having the mainsheet

angled forward from the boom, which forces the boom

forward to keep the mast rotated when pulled tight.

The amount of mast rotation is controlled by a line to

the rotation arm on the mast from either the boom or the

deck. A line from the boom has the advantage of being

self-tacking, by maintaining the mast at a constant rota-

tion angle relative to the boom on all points of sail.

However, the control line will have to be detached from a

roller furling boom and transferred to an eye on the deck

when furling the main.

A control line from the deck is also self-tacking, but it

does not automatically adjust for different angles of sail.

It will thus need to be let out when bearing off. Some

racers like to fit two lines to the deck, one from each side

for absolute control, but this can also be just another

complication and is not necessary for general sailing. A

2 or 4 : 1 tackle is now recommended for the control line,

as the loads here can be high.

WINDWARD PERFORMANCE

All Farrier designs will point very high if set up and

sailed correctly, but this can also be very dependent on

the crew’s skill. It is possible to point just as high or higher

F-33 Mast Rotator Arm & attached to boom for self tacking

F-27 hard on the wind off San Francisco

REACHING

When reaching, it is vital that the mainsail be let out far

enough. A common mistake is to sheet it in too tight, with

loss of boat speed, a heavy helm and an excessive heel

angle.

ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU WILL GENERALLY

GO FASTER BY EASING THE SHEETS OUT. PULL-

ING THEM ON TIGHTER IS MORE LIKELY TO SLOW

YOU DOWN

Your mainsail should have leach tell tails fitted as

standard. Watch these, and should they disappear be-

hind the mainsail to leeward, then you are sheeted in too

tight. They should always be flowing aft.

In light winds the mainsheet system can tend to bind

and be hard to let out. To overcome this there is some-

times a lever on the side of the camcleat block that

disconnects the ratchet. The mainsheet system will then

run out easily.

The headsail should also be barber hauled out to the

floats when reaching. This is used to get the perfect

shape in the headsail (so that it doesn’t backwind the

main), and will boost reaching performance significantly.

SCREACHER

This is an optional roller furling wire or synthetic luff

combination genoa/reacher, flown from the spinnaker

bow pole. A separate dedicated halyard just below the

spinnaker halyard is best used for the screacher, as this

allows it to be left up while furled, ready for use.

This multipurpose sail can be a perfect all-around, first

choice, additional sail for cruisers, or an essential power-

house for racers. It is still a developing sail in many

respects, and offers some significant and worthwhile

Screacher being used to windward on F-32SR, while doing

16 knots in 8 knots of wind. Luff could be a little tighter, but

very hard to do with that level of performance. A screacher

is also be a great allround easy to use sail for cruisers.

An F-33 with spinnaker, while screacher can be seen up and furled, ready for use

advantages.

It can be used very effectively to windward in light airs,

if cut for this, and for reaching in moderate airs. It thus

eliminates the regular hank on genoa,

while providing more sail area, and it is

easier to change headsails. The jib is

just dropped and the screacher un-

furled when required. Sheeting can be

a simple strap around the aft beam,

which can be moved in and out for the

correct sheeting angle.

For the best windward performance,

it is very important to keep the luff tight,

and many racing owners have fitted 2

to 1 halyards to keep the clutch loads

lower. However, the risk of twist when

hoisting can then be higher, and cruis-

ers will usually not experience the sort

of high loads that some hard racers

can induce, in the search for the ulti-

mate performance.

The screacher can be tacked easily

when needed by rolling up and then

unrolling on the new side.

SPINNAKER

The spinnaker is an easy sail to use

on a trimaran, due to the wide beam

and level sailing. It is thus a practical

and safe sail for family sailing, with very

few control problems. All Farrier designs now only use

asymmetric spinnakers, which are the easiest to use, and

the fastest if used correctly.

The asymmetric spinnaker can be launched from the

leeward wingnet, or main hull bow, and the sheets led

back to blocks on the floats near the aft beams for general

all round performance, though pointing ability is limited.

CAUTION: Avoid using continuous spinnaker

sheets, which can prevent the spinnaker from

being released easily.

For better pointing ability, a closer sheeting angle

is better, and a block on a movable strap around aft beam

works best. The spinnaker can then be set near perfectly,

without a tight foot or a loose and flapping leach.

The tack line is led from a block at end of the pole back

along main deck to a cleat on the aft end of cabin roof. To

set, connect tack line, sheet, and halyard. Pull on tack line

until tack is at the end of pole, hoist and then sheet in.

SPINNAKER JIBING

The asymmetric spinnaker can be jibed either through

inside in front of the screacher or forestay, or around the

outside. With 'inside' jibing the sheets are run between

the spinnaker tack and the screacher if fitted, forestay if

not. Outside jibing requires the sheets to be run outside

the spinnaker tack.

Inside jibing is probably the most common, as

outside jibing does have the risk of a sheet going

under the boat, though this is lessened by using a

continuous one piece sheet, but these have safety

concerns. The advantage is that the sail does not

have to fit through the narrow slot between spinnaker

and screacher.

With inside jibing, the skipper should start turning

slowly while the crew eases the sheet to keep the sail

full. As the clew nears the slot, or the spinnaker starts

to collapse, the new sheet should be quickly hauled in

to pull the spinnaker through the slot and around,

while also releasing the old sheet.

Outside jibing procedure is similar, with the crew

waiting until the clew reaches just in front of the

headstay, and then pulling in the new sheet, with the

sail going around the outside.

In all cases it is very important that the skipper turns

slowly, and then heads up to fill the sail before coming

to the right course.

SPINNAKER SAILING DOWNWIND

On first using an asymmetric spinnaker you may find

downwind performance disappointing with a fixed mast -

unless you note what is said here. The asymmetric

cannot match a symmetric spinnaker straight downwind

because of the smaller, flatter area, and the less projec-

tion to windward. The advantage is considerably easier

handling, and a superior reaching performance.

Tacking downwind does not work well with fixed masts,

as mast interferes with mainsail flow, and the main is not

as effective. A rotating mast is much more efficient and

such boats can achieve a very large performance in-

crease, making downwind tacking the fastest way to go.

However, the same effect can be achieved with a fixed

mast by using the jib inside the spinnaker which, besides

increasing area, helps smooth the flow over the mast and

main with spectacular results.

Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-33R. Jib can also be flown

inside by racers as shown for better performance

Asymmetric spinnaker being used on an F-27 while winning

Australian Nationals

need to tack the jib, and the fully battened main remains

docile and easy to handle.

When running downwind in strong winds , it is safer to

run with a headsail only. It is also still possible to go to

windward and tack while sailing under either jib or main-

sail alone.

Strong and gusty Winds:additional caution should

be exercised in gusty winds. Always have the sheet of

the largest sail up, be it the mainsail, genoa, or spinnaker,

in hand, ready for quick release. Use only the cam-

cleats provided and never use self-tailers as cleats in

high winds - they are too difficult to release fast.

Always be ready to release the sheets if you feel the

boat is being pressed too hard. Instruct your crew to do

likewise. If concerned, reef until you are comfortable.

DANGER

Never leave the sheets unattended if unreefed

and the wind is exceeding 20 knots

If being pressed while reaching then it is better to bear

away downwind than round up. The boat will slow down,

and the mast momentum from the turn is to windward,

reducing heel. Round up and speed may increase sur-

prisingly, while mast is thrown to leeward, heeling the

boat more.

The only time to round up is while hard on the wind or

close reaching (do not bear away in either case). Round-

ing up or luffing will feather sails until any gust passes by.

In general, your visual indication of being overpow-

ered is when the leeward float is pressed far enough

down to have waves regularly wash over it. If cruising with

your family, then you should reef before this for the best

comfort. If sailing for speed, this is not of great concern,

providing the crew is vigilant, and this sort of sailing has

been done for hours at very high speeds.

It is not unusual to drive the low resistance float bows

The basic technique is to sail downwind while keeping

the apparent wind at about 90, trimming the sails so they

are not stalling or luffing. The jib, for instance, should be

sheeted to the float just aft of the forward beam. The extra

speed generated will pull the apparent wind further

forward, allowing you to go deeper and deeper while

maintaining a very high speed. Just keep the apparent

wind at around 90. It can be tricky to get the right angles,

but if done correctly, the results can be devastating.

Flying jib inside the spinnaker may also help improve

performance with a rotating mast in light winds, by

smoothing and speeding up the wind flow over the mast.

SAFE SAILING RECOMMENDATIONS

DANGER

Be fully aware that it is possible to capsize any

multihull and the following rules should always

be observed for safe sailing

1. Always reduce sail when required as follows:

Wind Range Maximum Sail Configuration

to 12 knots Genoa or screacher & mainsail

12 -20 knots Jib and mainsail

20 - 25 knots Jib and mainsail with 1st reef

25 - 35 knots Jib and mainsail with 2nd reef

35 - 45 knots Jib only, or Storm jib & main 2nd reef

45 knots + Storm jib or main only with 3rd reef

A more detailed chart for each model is on last page

The sail configurations recommended above are for

standard cruising designs and have been arrived at from

practical experience over many years of sailing Farrier

trimarans in many differing conditions.

If necessary, all sail can be taken

down and a properly set up Storm

Parachute Anchor put out. This is

now a well proven method for a mul-

tihull to survive even the worst off-

shore storm. It appears to virtually

eliminate the danger of capsize from

both extreme wave action and hurri-

cane force winds.

Other variations of the above are

possible depending on the circum-

stances, and racing versions will need

to reef earlier. Experienced and alert

racing crews can also delay reefing

to beyond the above limits.

A quick way to reduce sail, and

achieve a very comfortable and safe

motion is to simply drop the jib and

sail under main only, reefed if con-

sidered necessary. This avoids the

This is definitely not safe sailing with a novice crew aboard! DO NOT do this sort

of thing with family or inexperienced crew on board. To be safe, always reef early.

through waves, or even submerge the float in some

circumstances. This has been found to have no adverse

effect on the boat, and in fact the boat will tend to round

up slightly, not slew to leeward as commonly and mistak-

enly believed.

Early Farrier designs used low buoyancy floats, and

frequently completely submerged the leeward float, with

speeds in excess of 15 knots, for quite some time, with no

ill effect on the boat. However, this is sailing on the limit,

and don't push your luck unless prepared for a ducking.

Beware of being caught side on, with little speed

and with all sails sheeted in tight. This can happen after

a tack if concentration is lost. Any strong gust in this

situation can be turned into a 100% heel/capsize force,

whereas if boat is moving it will

tend to accelerate to absorb the

gust rather than heel over and

get bogged down

Thunderstorms: If caught in

a severe thunderstorm, a simple

safety procedure is to drop all

sail and simply let the boat drift.

You will lie side on to the wind

which is quite safe, unless the

waves are very large, in which

case you should steer off down-

wind. Farrier designs will steer

quite well from a reach to a run

with no sails up in any winds over

5 knots - try it sometime. It is

even possible to round up into

the wind.

Anchoring in Storms:

Another safety procedure in a

severe storm is to simply drop all

sails and anchor, and this is a

frequently overlooked safety proce-

dure. It is very effective. At sea a Storm

Parachute anchor has the same effect.

Always carry full safety gear,

including life jackets, as required by

U.S. Coast Guard and local regula-

tions.

Check Weather Forecast: Al-

ways listen to the latest weather fore-

cast before you set out on any sailing

trip.

Use Large Safety Margins: Al-

ways leave a large safety margin, be it

while sailing, or just motoring around.

The above procedures will give a high

margin of safety and should always be observed when-

ever safety is paramount. If absolute performance is

required, and an experienced crew is aboard, the above

limits can be exceeded. In some earlier sea trials full sail

has been carried in over 40 knots of wind, including the

spinnaker. This is not for the inexperienced however, and

any skipper doing such sailing must be prepared for and

accept the responsibility for the extra risks involved. It

should not be done offshore.

SAILING HINTS

Farrier trimarans have several unique sailing features,

one of these being the ability to make continuous 360

degree turns in the one spot. To do this, while going to

windward for instance, just tack, but don’t touch any of the

sheets. You will continue to turn, jibe, and tack again

All Farrier designs are well tested, and very seaworthy, but don't push your luck

For safety, when sailing hard, ALWAYS keep sheet in hand ready for quick release

This manual suits for next models

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