The power and signal pads
on the PCB conform to the
FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired
with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and
easy offboard wiring. Check
the separate daughterboard
document for details.
Be very careful when
soldering the transistors
and diodes. They’re very
sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink
(crocodile clip or reverse
action tweezers) on each leg as you solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2
seconds). You should really use a socket for the IC. If not, be extra careful not to overheat.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic caps go to the square pads. C7 and C12 can be laid flat over
the adjacent resistors as shown in the cover image to give you extra clearance in the enclosure.
Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to the square pads. That’s the short one on the LED.
You should solder all other board-mounted components before you solder the pots. Once they’re in
place you’ll have no access to much of the board. ake sure your pots all line up nicely. The best
way to do that is to solder a single pin of each pot in place then melt and adjust if necessary before
soldering in the other two pins. If your pots don’t have protective plastic jackets ensure you leave a
decent gap between the pot body and the PCB otherwise you risk shorting out the circuit.
SPECIAL EDITION - JAZZ or ROCK???
If you want to waste a capacitor and a toggle switch,
go ahead and build the Deluxe version. Simply include
C6 in your build, and add a toggle switch to pads 1
and 2, above R8 on the PCB. This can be a SPST. It
just takes C6 in and out of the circuit.
PCB Layout ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd.
