HobbyPCB HARDROCK-50 User manual
HARDROCK-50 USA Version
Assembly Instructions
Jim Veatch
WA2EUJ
June 30, 2012
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................... 1
2. SPECI ICATIONS .................................................................................................................................... 2
3. ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW ........................................................................................................................... 3
4. CONTROL PCB INVENTORY .................................................................................................................... 4
1. REAR PANEL PCB INVENTORY ............................................................................................................... 5
2. AMPLI IER PCB INVENTORY .................................................................................................................. 6
3. CHASSIS PACK INVENTORY .................................................................................................................... 8
4. RONT PANEL PCB ............................................................................................................................... 10
5. BACK PANEL PCB ................................................................................................................................. 14
6. INDUCTORS AND TRANS ORMERS ..................................................................................................... 16
7. AMPLI IER PCB .................................................................................................................................... 21
8. INAL ASSEMBLY ................................................................................................................................. 29
9. ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE .................................................................................................................... 33
10. Chassis Wiring Diagram ....................................................................................................................... 37
11. AMPLI IER PCB SCHEMATIC ................................................................................................................ 38
12. CONTROL PCB SCHEMATIC .................................................................................................................. 40
13. REAR PANEL PCB SCHEMATIC ............................................................................................................. 41
[1]
1. INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of a Hardrock-50 linear amplifier kit. The HR-50 is designed to
provide 50W of RF power output with a drive level of 5 watts or less on the 160, 80, 40, 30, 20, 17 and
15 meter Amateur Radio frequency bands. The HR-50 is supplied as an easy to build kit that includes 3
printed circuit boards (PCBs), all necessary electrical and mechanical components and a rugged,
professionally manufactured, aluminum enclosure. All surface mount components on the PCBs are
installed using the latest pick and place technology and soldered with state of the art reflow equipment.
The HR-50 is designed to provide higher power operation for low power analog and digital radios.
Several interface options are available or under development for popular transceivers. Users are
encouraged to customize the HR50 amplifier to meet their specific operating needs. Here is a list of
possible modifications that licensed Amateur Radio operators have made to their HR-50 amplifiers:
•Expanded frequency coverage to include 12, 10 and 6M Amateur Radio Bands (power output
on 6M is 35W).
•QSK circuit to replace the mechanical T/R relay with diode switching for extremely fast turn-
around time.
•Adding a second amplifier stage to lower drive requirements to the 0.5W input range to work
with low power Software Defined radio kits.
Building the HR-50 will be an excellent experience. The instructions have been thoroughly tested and
updated with builder input to insure a successful build. Real time support is available from the entire
HR-50 community at HobbyPCB.com/forums, seven days a week, 24 hours a day. And if for some
personally make arrangements to fix your amplifier.
The HR50 is designed to be rugged, both mechanically and electrically. The extruded aluminum case
with 1/8” end panels is virtually indestructible, ready for backpacking or field day and laser etched
labels and bright LCV display make the HR-50 look good in your home station as well. Electrically,
the HR-50 is rated to operate in to any passive load from a dead short to open circuit and anywhere in
between without reducing the output power, the input can withstand twice the rated input power
indefinitely and power supply is tolerant to 16V.
[2]
2. SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
requency Range 160, 80, 40, 30, 20, 17, 15 meter Amateur Radio Bands
Input Power 5W maximum
Output Power 50W nominal
DC Power 12-14 Volts, 10 Amps typical, 12A maximum
Keying Modes Stand-by, Carrier Operated, Push-to-Talk
Input/Output Jacks UH Connectors
Size 4.25” W by 3.5” H by 7.5” D (not including switches and
connectors)
Weight 2 lbs, 14 oz
[3]
3. ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW
Assembling the Hardrock-50 amplifier kit should be an enjoyable and rewarding experience. If at any
time you feel frustrated or are having difficulty, take a break, ask questions on the forum or email,
remember that if you are having a problem with something there’s a good chance that someone else
has had the same issue. We have a “no questions asked” replacement part policy, so if you lose a part
or need an extra length of wire of find something missing and email is all it will take to get you a
replacement.
The assembly is organized into the following subassemblies:
•Front Paned PCB
•Back Panel PCB
•Inductors and Transformers
•Amplifier PCB
•Final Assembly
•Test and Alignment
They are presented in this order as you need all of the PCBs to proceed to final assembly and you need
the inductors and transformers to build the amplifier PCB. The inventory information is the first thing
so you can make sure that nothing is missing. There are a few required tools:
•Soldering iron – A small temperature controlled unit is the best.
•Solder – Rosin core, fairly tin
•Screwdrivers – All of the screws in the kit a Philips
•Tweezers – For holding small parts and reaching tight areas
•Long-nose pliers – For general mechanical assembly and crimping pins
•¼” Nutdriver – Not essential but helps with panel assembly
•Center punch – For marking hole locations, you can use a nail if necessary
•Drill – A small press would be great but a hand drill will work
•Toothpick – For unbraiding coax
•Adjustment tool or small flat blade screwdriver – Turning pots
•Digital Multimeter – Doing resistance checks and setting bias current
•Power Supply – Powering the amp during testing
•QRP Transceiver – The reason you bought the amp in the first place
•Test Equipment and cables for Alignment listed in Section 9
Other things that could come in handy are #4 and #6 taps and a tap handle. I like to tap the holes in the
case with a #6 tap and use #6 screws rather than the M3’s I think that they fit better. Sometimes it
works better to use a tap on the #4 holes but the new screws do OK. A universal crimp tool is nice for
the crimp pins but there’s only 2 of them so make sure you plan on crimping other things before you
drop $30 on one. I like to use flux when I solder but then you’ll need some solvent too.
[4]
4. CONTROL PCB INVENTORY
PART ID DESCRIPTION PICTURE QUANTITY
JP101 10 PIN DUAL ROW HEADER
1
JP102 20 PIN DUAL ROW HEADER
SOCKET
1
R111 10K POTENTIOMETER
1
S102, S102,
S103
PUSH BUTTON SWITCH
3
LCD101 2X16 CHARACTER LCD
DISPLAY
1
D105 BI-COLOR LED
1
LCD101
HEADER
16 PIN SINGLE ROW
HEADER
1
LCD
MOUNTING
SCREWS
#4 1/2” MACHINE
SCREWS
4
PCB
MOUNTING
SCREWS
#4 3/4" MACHINE
SCREWS
3
STANDO S 0.375" NYLON CONTROL
PCB STANDO S
3
STANDO S 0.188” NYLON LCD
MOUNTING STANDO S
4
MOUNTING
WASHERS
#4 LOCK WASHERS
7
MOUNTING
NUTS
#4 Machine Nuts
7
[5]
1. REAR PANEL PCB INVENTORY
PART ID DESCRIPTION PICTURE QUANTITY
Y301 12MHZ CRYSTAL
1
X301
DB9 ACCESSORY JACK
1
JP302 10 PIN DUAL ROW HEADER
1
X303 USB TYPE B VERTICAL PCB MOUNT
CONNECTOR
1
X104 RCA JACK METAL VERTICAL PTT IN
1
RONT/REAR PANEL CABLE
10 PIN IDC CABLE
1
PCB MOUNTING SCREWS
#4 5/8" MACHINE SCREWS
3
SPACERS 0.25" NYLON PCB SPACERS
3
MOUNTING NUTS #4 MACHINE NUTS
4
MOUNTING WASHERS LOCK WASHERS
3
[6]
2. AMPLIFIER PCB INVENTORY
PART ID DESCRIPTION PICTURE QUANTITY
13.8VDC, GND
TERMINAL, MALE
DISCONNECT, 6.35MM
2
J1 20 PIN DUAL ROW RIGHT ANGLE
MALE HEADER
1
AMP_IN 2 PIN HEADER
1
DRV 3 PIN HEADER
1
L7,L6,L9,L8,L11,L10 T50-6 POWDERED IRON CORE
6
L13,L12,L14,L15 T50-2 POWERED IRON CORE
4
Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4
RD16HH 1
4
R _IN, R _OUT RCA JACK METAL VERTICAL
2
RLY1
RELAY DPDT 5A 12V COIL
1
RLY2, RLY3, RLY4, RLY5, RLY6,
RLY7, RLY8, RLY9, RLY10, RLY11,
RLY12, RLY13, RLY14, RLY15
RELAY DPDT 2A 12V COIL
14
L5, T1, T3
BN43-202 BINOCULAR CORE
3
[7]
T2 T-75-43 OUTPUT TRANS ORMER
1
U2 LM35 TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1
VR1, VR2, VR3, VR4 1K 25 TURN POTENTIOMETER
4
TOROID WIRE #22 ENAMELED WIRE
10’
DIRECTIONAL COUPLER WIRE #30 KYNAR WIRE
3’
DIRECTIONAL COUPLER AND T1
WIRE
#22 TE LON WIRE 12” WHITE, 6”
BLUE
18”
T2 and L5 WIRE #18 TE LON WIRE
2’
RLY_OUT TO AMP_IN COAX
JUMPER
2 PIN HOUSING
1
RLY_OUT TO AMP_IN COAX
JUMPER
CONTACT
2
COAX JUMPER, RLY_OUT TO
AMP_IN, INPUT to R _IN,
OUTPUT to R _OUT
RG-174
1’
[8]
3. CHASSIS PACK INVENTORY
PART ID DESCRIPTION PICTURE QUANTITY
R INPUT
R OUTPUT
UH
PANEL CONNECTOR
2
POWER SWITCH
POWER ROCKER SWITCH
1
RONT PANEL MOUNTING
REAR PANEL MOUNTING
M3 SEL TAPPING PANEL
MOUNTING SCREWS
8
UH CONNECTOR MOUNTING
POWERPOLE MOUNTING
#4 3/8" MACHINE SCREWS
9
UH CONNECTOR MOUNTING
POWERPOLE MOUNTING
#4 MACHINE NUTS
12
UH CONNECTOR MOUNTING
POWERPOLE MOUNTING
#4 LOCK WASHERS
12
COAX JUMPER ASSEMBLIES RCA MALE CONNECTOR
2
DC INPUT CABLE ASSEMBLY POWERPOLE TO SPADE
TERMINALS, #18 2 COND
1
POWER SWITCH CABLE 2-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER,
.10"
1
PCB MOUNTING #4 ½” THREAD CUTTING SCREW
4
MOS ET MOUNTING #4 ¼” THREAD CUTTING SCREW
4
PCB MOUNTING ¼” BRASS STAND-O
6
R IN/R OUT
GROUND CONNECTORS
#6 RED SPADE CONNECTORS
2
[9]
HEAT SINK COMPOUND PAPER SACHET
3
HEAT SINK DRILLING OR SEL
TAPPING SCREWS
#41 DRILL BIT
1
DRIVER MOUNTING SCREWS
#4 5/8" MACHINE SCREWS
3
CHASSIS EET
½” DIAMETER x ¼”
HIGH
ROUND RUBBER EET
4
POWERPOLE MOUNTING
ALUMINUM M
-
SHAPED
BRACKET
1
[10]
4. FRONT PANEL PCB
This section covers the assembly of the front panel and control PCB. Required tools and supplies are;
soldering iron, diagonal cutters, Philips screwdriver and long-nose pliers. From the kit you will need
the front panel PCB:
FRONT SIDE BACK SIDE
You'll also need the “Front Panel Pack” in your kit. It is easy to pick out because it has the LCD in a
bubble wrap package. Verify all
parts below are in your pack. The inventory for the "Front Panel Pack"
is in section 1. Be careful when emptying out the pack as the #4 nylon washers are very small and easy
to lose.
Please read these instructions first and follow these steps carefully to ensure success. If you
install certain parts before others, you aren’t guaranteed an accurate fit of the entire assembly.
Components in Step 1 - 2 are mounted on the front side of the Front Panel Board
□
STEP 1: Press TrimPot R111 firmly into the holes and solder in place.
□
STEP 2: Install the Female Header JP102 and Male Header JP101. Make sure JP102 especially is
at a right angle to the board. Do this by first applying solder to one pin and then pressing it down
firmly while holding your iron to that pin ensuring it’s seated firmly on the board. Solder the opposite
corner and then the rest of the pins. After soldering JP102, clip the pins as close as possible to the
board. You will see a note on the silk screen about 8 pins in particular, if these aren't clipped super
close, they can short on part of the LCD that hangs down in this area. After attaching the LCD, you
can look through the side to ensure proper clearance of the LCD tab to these pins.
[11]
The remaining components are mounted on the back side side of the Front Panel Board
□
Step 3: Find the 1x16 header. Count the pins and ensure there are 16. If there are extra, carefully
snap the excess off.
The 1X16 header has a long side and a short side it is important to insert the short side into the PCB
and have the long side sticking up.
□
Step 4: Insert the 1x16 header into the LCD module with the short pins protruding up through the
holes in the LCD. Solder one pin and check for square. DO NOT solder the rest of the pins at this
point.
□
Step 5: Using 4 – 0.188” nylon spacers, 4 - #4 1/2” screws, 4 – #4 lock washers and 4 – #4 nuts
mount the LCD to the control panel. It is easiest if you first insert the one screw nearest the 2x10
header, JP101, and loosely tighten it down. Then holding the control board with the LCD facing up,
insert the spacer between the LCD and the control board and align. Slide the screw through both PCBs
and the spacer and then attach the washer and nut. Once all 4 screws are in, tighten them finger tight
for now. DO NOT SOLDER the LCD at this time.
[12]
□
Step 6: Insert the 3 push button switches, S101, S102 and S103 into their holes. DO NOT
SOLDER
□
Step 7: Insert the bi-
color LED, D5, into its holes. Note the flat side of the LCD and align with the
markings on the silk
screen. The 2nd to the longest lead should be facing the “R” on the silkscreen. DO
NOT SOLDER
□
Step 8: Align the front panel with the LCD, pushbuttons and LED. The fit is snug. If it doesn’t
easily slide over the parts, loosen the LCD mounting screws to provide some “wiggle room”.
□
Step 9: Using 3 - #4 0.375" spacers, 3 - #4 3/4" screws, 3 – #4 lock washers and 3 – #4 nuts,
mount the panel assembly to the front panel.
[13]
□
Step 10: Tighten the all 7 mounting screws so that they are snug.
For the screws that hold the LCD
module to the Front Panel PCB use a long-nose plier to hold the head of the screw and turn the nut
with a nut driver or second pair of pliers.
□
Step 11: Solder the buttons, LED and the 16 leads of the LCD to the Front Panel PCB.
□
Step 12: Remove the 3 sets of hardware holding the front panel in place.
□
Step 13: Solder the remaining 15 pins of the header to the LCD module and re-tighten the
hardware holding the LCD module to the Front Panel PCB.
□
Step 14: Reinstall the front panel with the 3 sets of hardware and tighten.
[14]
5. BACK PANEL PCB
This section covers the assembly of the rear panel and back panel PCB. Required tools and
supplies are; soldering iron, diagonal cutters, Philips screwdriver and long-nose pliers. From the
kit you will need the Back Panel PCB:
ront: Rear:
You'll also need the "Rear Panel Pack" which is the pack with the 12" ribbon cable in it. Check to
make sure that all of the required parts are present using the "Rear Panel Inventory" which can be
found Section 2.
□
Step 1: Insert and solder the 2X5 header at location JP302. The header mounts on the front
side of the PCB and solders to the back side. Make sure that the header is flush with the PCB.
Note the remaining components mount on Rear side of the PCB and solder is applied to the front side.
□
Step 2: Insert and solder the 12 MHz crystal at location Y301. When soldering the crystal, it
is recommended for it to be slightly off of the board. You can achieve this by sliding a cut off
lead from a through hole part or a folded up slip of paper under the crystal while soldering.
□
Step 3: Insert and solder the USB connector at location X303.
□
Step 4: Insert and solder the RCA connector at location X104 (PTT_IN). Caution: The RCA
connector will be hot after soldering.
□
Step 5: Insert the DB9 Accessory Jack at location X302 (Do not solder at this time).
[15]
□
Step 6: Using three #4 5/8" screws, 0.25" spacers, and #4 nuts and four #4 lock washers and
one nylon washer, attach the Rear Panel PCB to the Rear Panel as shown. One of the lock
washers is used to make up the difference caused by the DB9 (X302) connector as shown.
□
Step 7: Tighten all hardware and solder the 9 pins of the DB9.
[16]
6. INDUCTORS AND TRANSFORMERS
This section describes the construction of the inductors and transformers that will be installed on the
Amplifier PCB in the next section. The Amplifier pack consists 2 bags of parts. The parts needed for
the inductors and transformers are in one of the bags, look for a bag with toroid and balun cores in it.
Tips for Winding Toroidal Inductors:
1. The enameled on wire included with the kit is designed to be removed by heat. No scraping is
required. After the inductor is wound, tin the end with a soldering iron which will remove the
enamel and prepare the inductor for installation on the PCB. But there’s a trick, in order to get
the enamel hot enough burn off you must get molten solder in contact with bare copper which,
since we aren’t scraping, means the end of the wire. So get a nice ball of solder on the tip of the
iron and put the ball on the very tip of the wire, Then you will see the enamel cook right off.
Maybe when you are cutting the wire after the toroid is wound, cut the wire on a bias to expose
more bare wire.
2. There are two possible directions to wind a toroid. They are electrically identical but the PCB
layout favors right hand winding. When winding inductors always inset the initial turn of wire
and add turns to the right. This will insure that the inductors mount nicely on the PCB.
3. Tight, neat windings not only make your finished kit look professional but tighter coils have
less wire which leads to less resistance and higher Q so bend the wire around the toroid rather
than loop it.
L1 – L4 are SMT inductors installed at the contract manufacturer. Inspect them and check for 50 ohms
of resistance between the gate pad of Q1 through Q4 and the center pin of VR1 through VR4
respectively. The center pins of VR1 through VR4 should also be greater than 1M to ground.
□
L5 - two loops of #18 wire through a BN43-202 Core. The wires are cut to 3" (75mm) each and
stripped so that the insulation is 1 5/8" (65mm) long.
L6, L7 are not installed in this version of the amplifier
□
L8, L10, L11 - 9Turns (7") of #22 enameled wire on a T50-6 Core (yellow), tinned
[17]
□
L9 - 7 Turns (6") of #22 enameled wire on a T50-6 Core (yellow), tinned
□
L12, L13 - 12 Turns (9") of #22 enameled wire on a T50-2 Core (red), tinned
□
L14 - 17 Turns (12") of #22 enameled wire on a T50-2 Core (red), tinned
□
L15 - 24 Turns (16") of #22 enameled wire on a T50-2 Core (red), tinned
[18]
□
T1 - two windings each with 2 turns of #22 teflon wire. One winding uses white wire, the other
uses blue wire for easy identification. Cut two pieces of Teflon wire, one white, one blue each 4 1/2”
long. Wrap each wire 2 turns on a BN43-202 binocular core, that is up one hole down the other, up the
first one again and down the second for each wire. Dress the wires so white is on one side, blue on the
other, trim to ½”, strip the wires and lightly tin.
□
T2 - Thoroughly tin both ends of T2's core,
CAUTION - after you do this the core will be HOT!!
Let me make this extremely clear. T2 looks like this from the manufacturer:
You need to make it look like this:
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