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Hudson SIX-40 1915 User manual

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INSTRUCTION BOOK
HUDSON SIX-40
1915
Fourth Editon
HUDSON MOTOR CAR CO.
DETROIT MICHAGAN
Instruction Book
Hudson Six “40”
1915
Fourth Editon
INDEX
USEFUL INFORMATION
How to Start Motor
Notes on Oiling
Diagnosis of Common Trouble
How to Learn to. Drive a Hudson Six-40
The Hudson Clutch
Front Axle
The Hudson Rear Axle
Brake Adjustment
The Action of the Zenith Carburetor
Transmission
Steering Gear
Care of Springs
Storing Your Car for the Winter
The Action of Lubricants at Low Temperature
Anti-Freezing Mixture
Washing Car
Cleaning of Nickel Plated Parts
Advice to Drivers
THE HUDSON 1915 SIX-40 ELECTRIC SYSTEM
How to Start Engine
The Motor Generator
The Motor Clutch
The Generator Clutch
Regulation of Output
The Combination Switch
The Circuit Breaker
The Distributor and Timer
To Time Ignition
Ignition Resistance Unit
Regulation of Resistance Units
The Ignition Coil.
Varying the Dimming of the Headlights
Lubrication
STORAGE BATTERY INFORMATION
Storage Battery
List of Service Stations and Sales Offices
Charging Battery from an Outside Source
Putting Battery in Service Again
Hydrometer Syringe and Directions for Using
Removal of a Complete Cell
Sediment
Care of Battery When Car is in Storage or Laid Up for the Winter
Adding Water
3
3-6
6-7
7-8
8-12
12-14
14-17
17-18
18-22
22
23
23
23-24
24
28
28-30_,
3t.
30-31-32-33-34
36
38
39
39
39
39-40
41
41-42
42-43
43
43-44
44
44-45
45
46
46
48
48
48-49-50
50
50
50-51
52
INDEX-Continued
INDEX-Continued
ILLUSTRATIONS
Functions of Fittings and Levers in Driver's Compartment
Preparing Car for Running
Valve Tappet Adjustment
Clutch Illustration
Wheel Alignment Illustration
Rear Axle Illustration No. 1
Rear Axle Illustration No. 2
Brake Adjustment
Carburetor
Lubricating Chart
Manner of Turning into Another Road
ILLUSTRATIONS HUDSON SIX-40 ELECTRIC SYSTEM AND STOR-
AGE BATTERY
Simplified Circuit Diagram
View Rear End of Generator
View Front End of Generator
Wiring Diagram Six-40-1915
Distributor .
Dimmer Illustration
Charging Circuit Diagram
Hydrometer Syringe
Storage Battery
2
4
5
10
13
53
15
17
19
26-27
31
37
38
39
40
41
44
47
49
51
2
How To Start Motor
Follow Instructions by Paragraphs
See Fig. 1.
1. Pull out "M" button on Ignition Switch.
2. Place spark lever about halfway up quadrant, and throttle lever all the way
down.
3. To stop the motor, both "M" and "B" buttons must be pushed in.
There are three positions of the carburetor air control operated by the small pull rod which terminates in a handle
on the cowl apron. When this handle is pulled half way out, hot air is drawn from the exhaust manifold through the
carburetor.
This position is most suitable for cold weather as warm air helps volatilize the fuel.When the handle is pushed all
the way in, cold air is taken in through the carburetor, and when the handle is pulled out as far as it will go, the control
is in the "strangled" position. In this instance, the air supplied to the carburetor is materially decreased and suction
from the motor increases the quantity of gasoline drawn into the cylinders.
In general, this handle should be pushed in, in warm weather and pulled half way out in cold weather. In starting,
especially in cold weather, it may be pulled clear out to assist in priming the cylinders, but the hand throttle must be
opened about one-third when cranking. By pulling out the handle, thus applying the strangler before turning off the
ignition, the cylinders will be supplied with a rich mixture of gas which will materially assist in starting at a future time.
There are various other positions between these three indicated, which may be used for different weather conditions,
the correct point being determined more or less by experimenting with the car in operation.
If the motor fails to start when the electric cranking device has been in operation for 30 seconds, with the strangler
closed, and with the spark and throttle levers in the correct position, discontinue cranking until you have made sure of
the cause of the failure to start. This will save your storage battery.
A reserve Ignition System, consisting of A SET OF DRY BATTERIES, is furnished, and this may be used in case
the storage battery is disabled by accident or other cause. In this event, the dry cells are used for Ignition, tiut it is good
practice to start on the dry cells occasionally because this procedure will test the dry batteries and assure you that they
are in proper condition for an emergency.
NOTE—DO NOT KEEP THE MOTOR RACING WHEN CAR IS NOT IN MOTION OR NOT PULLING. THIS
SHORTENS ITS LIFE MATERIALLY.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START MOTOR WITH CAR IN ANY GEAR. THROW CONTROL LEVER INTO
NEUTRAL POSITION.
Notes On Oiling
Every week or so the car should be looked over thoroughly and oil applied through the various oil holes provided
for the purpose; also such moving parts as rod ends, pins, devises, etc., should be well lubricated.
USE GOOD MOTOR OIL—Test all your lubricants with blue litmus paper to be sure no acids are present. It is
difficult for us to recommend any particular grade of motor oil, as the same grade does not necessarily give the same
results in different parts of the country, due partly to climatic conditions. We also find that some motor oils (sold un-
der trade names), vary considerably in different parts of the country perhaps due to the fact that the origin of the crude
oil from which they are made is not necessarily always the same.
Attempted economy by the purchase of inferior or cheap grades of lubricating oil always results in carbonized
3
Fig. 3
oil always results in carbonized motors, burned-out bearings, overheating and loss of power, or other serious
troubles. Like every other commodity, the payment of a fair price secures the best article.
In winter, a thinner grade of oil may be used than in summer. A tendency to overheat, which is indicated by
a rapid evaporation of the water from the radiator, may often be eliminated by using a medium grade, rather than
a thin grade, of motor oil of good quality.
Diagnosis of Common Trouble
IF MOTOR STOPS.
1. Out of gasoline.
2. Disconnected spark plug cables or other loose electrical connections.
3. Dirty contact points in the distributor or accumulation of oil or dirt on the
underside of the distributor cover.
4. Out of motor oil, indicated usually by knocking in the motor, followed by an abrupt stop. If this occurs,
do not attempt to use either the electric starter or hand crank until the motor has been allowed to cool off.
Kerosene should be applied to the pet cocks while the motor is still warm. This usually is a serious matter, and
the motor should have the attention of a good mechanic before attempting to put the car into service again.
5. Cannot crank motor. Frozen water pump. Seized motor bearings, due to lack of oil. Transmission
engaged.
REASONS FOR MOTOR MISSING.
1. Short circuited spark plug. Points not adjusted to .025".
2. Partially short circuited or broken secondary terminals.
3. Poor contact between the various ends and clips of wiring.
4. Loss of compression in one or more cylinders. Valves may be stuck. Valves may need regrinding or
reseating. Valve springs may be weak or broken.
5. Water in gasoline—the motor runs spasmodically. (This is the most difficult to separate from other
causes, and should be one of the last things looked for.)
6. When motor misses, you may locate the missing cylinder by opening the priming cock on top of the
cylinders, one at a time. After replacing with a new one the spark plug in the missing cylinder, or with one from
another cylinder, you will have to determine whether missing is caused by defective plugs or wires leading to
same. If the trouble is still continuing, turn over the motor slowly by hand in an endeavor to detect a defect in the
compression in the different cylinders.
7. If missing is not due to any of the items mentioned above, there may be an air leak between the carburetor
and intake manifold, or between the manifold and cylinder block.
8. If any wires in the entire electrical system have been tampered with at any time, refer to the wiring
diagram in this Instruction Book. Page 40.
IF MOTOR LACKS POWER.
The motor will run but not pull on grades or under heavy loads.
1. Loss of compression due to leaky valves.
2. Too rich a mixture through some defect in carburetor, probably flooding due to grit under float valve.
3. Late Ignition. (See directions for timing of the distributor, page 42, retarded spark.)
4. Lack of water in radiator or oil in motor causing the motor to run hot.
5. Lack of gasoline. If lack of gasoline through stoppage of pipe, the motor will spit back through
carburetor when throttle is opened.
6. Poor grade of gasoline, in cold weather, causing too weak a mixture.
7. Dragging brakes. See that the car can be rolled by hand easily or that it will coast down hill when clutch
is released and not slow down. Feel the brake drum with your hand to determine over-heating.
8. Flat tires.
9. Stoppage of the jets in carburetor due to dirt or sediment.
6