J.A.E. Racing JAE12G4 Hybrid Instruction Manual

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Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
JAE12G4
Hybrid
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC –Indiana USA
www.zippkits.com
Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP

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The JAE series was designed and developed as a result of a joint venture between IMPBA Hall
of Fame member Rod Geraghty, David Hall, Ron Zaker Jr. & Martin Truex Jr.
The main difference between this hull and all the others is the use of sharp edges on the bottom
of the sponsons and tub, as opposed to curved surfaces. This helps break any surface tension
of the water and makes for a faster boat.
This design approach has been built, developed and tested a great deal.
The 12G4 Hybrid kit is a light version of our popular JAE 12G2 kit. About 25% lighter…
This reduction in weight is substantially faster, and is still robust enough for everyday heat
racing. The JAE 12G holds several world speed records.
The Hybrid refers to a mix of all of the JAE 12G versions. Light, but not too light. Strong, but not
too heavy. Easier to build too.
In addition to a marine engine, you can use any air cooled 12, 15, 18, 20 (small block) car or
truggy engine, with excellent results.
The kit is not hard to assemble, as all of the hard stuff has been done for you.
That is no excuse to do a poor job with assembly. The better you build this boat, the better it will
run. Often the difference between an excellent building job and a poor one is a simple sanding
block.
A note about overhangs:
This boat is designed to shear water and prevent any capillary action of water. To do this the
tub, ski and sponsons have sharp edges and rear overhangs. These shear the water off and
must be left in place and not rounded in any way.
Take the time to read this entire manual, so that you are familiar with all the buildings steps and
their proper order. Take your time; make sure you understand everything before you do it and
you will be rewarded with an impressive running hull…
Note that the pictures in this manual may be of a different boat to better illustrate a point.
This boat is built exactly like the 12G2, so we used some of the same pictures.
This kit is not a toy. Although R/C boating is a fun and rewarding hobby, it can be dangerous
if not done with common sense and safety in mind. Just about anyone should be able to
build this kit, but it should not be operated by children without close adult supervision.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in theuse of this product, as
we have no control over the construction or end use of this product.

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Tools and supplies needed to build
Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper
Drill with bits (1/16, 3/32, 5/32, ¼ inch)
Square
Flat file
FLAT Workbench
1/2 ounce Medium CA glue and accelerator
Good quality 5 or 30 minute epoxy
Epoxy finishing resin
Spring clamps, paper clamps, c clamps, etc.
Razor blade or X-Acto knife
Masking tape
Waxed paper
Wood filler
Primer
Paint

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Additional items needed to complete
.10-.20 air or water cooled Nitro engine
.150 Collet and flywheel for engine (Zipp 3541 for 5mm)
Starting belt if needed (Zipp 3548)
.150x16 inch cable w/welded 3/16 stub shaft (Zipp 3475)
Header to fit engine
Tuned pipe
2 channel surface radio with 2 servos (Hitec HS-225MG and Zipp 5001 recommended)
Throttle and rudder pushrods (.055 Size) ( Included in Zipp 3606 Set)
2 pushrod seals (Zipp 3404)
4 ounce Fuel Tank (Sullivan SS-4) (Zipp 3473)
Z21 Strut (Zipp 3494)
.187 drive dog (Zipp 3485)
440 prop (Zipp 4007)
10-32 Prop nuts (Zipp 3489)
Engine Mounts ( Zipp 3554)
Cable grease
Rudder (Zipp 3477)
12 inch length of 1/4 brass tubing (Zipp 3474)
Note that all items need to complete your 12G4 are available as a complete set.
Order part number 3606 Ultimate Hardware Set
Let’s identify the parts so that we can easily find them when needed. Mark the parts that are
inside other parts.

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1/32 plywood parts:
1/16 plywood parts
1/8 plywood
parts

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Miscellaneous parts
Foam parts
Left Sponson Foam Right Sponson Foam Nose Foam
Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or
damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly.

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Tub Jig
We recommend that you make a jig for the tub.
This can be as simple as two straight pieces of ½ to ¾ inch thick wood.
It can be as elaborate as 1/16 by 1-1/2 inch aluminum angle with adjustment slots for different
tub widths.
We mounted some aluminum angle to a piece of ¾ inch MDF.
Either way, you need something to clamp the tub sides to.
Every critical component on this hull depends on a straight, square tub.
Do whatever it takes to get it done correctly.
Tub Jig

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Tub sides marked before assembly.
Bulkheads in place. Note position of holes.
Ready for the bottom.
Tub
Let’s build the tub.
First, mark the insides of the tub right and
left. The sponson boom hole is toward the
bottom of the tub side.
Lay these out in a mirror fashion.
Make these marks in the front portion of the
sides, where it won’t be seen later.
Check the fit of the bulkheads in the right
tub side.
Once you are happy with the fit of the
bulkheads in the tub side, glue them in with
CA. Use the square provided in the kit to
ensure each bulkhead is perfectly square.
Glue BH-2 so that the pushrod hole is to the
right.
Glue the transom in place so that the 2
small holes are on the right.
Assemble the tub sides on a flat surface
Check the fit of the bulkheads in the left tub
side. If all is well, glue the bulkheads in
place one at a time, using the square from
the kit.

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Holes in bulkheads must be as shown…
Tub in jig.
Transom doubler clamped in place.
Flip the tub over and lightly sand the
bottom.
Now is the time to use your tub jig. If you
don’t have the ability to make an aluminum
jig, use a pair of thick wooden sticks.
Make sure they are straight. Leave these
clamped to the sides while gluing the aft
bottom in place.
Glue the 1/8 transom doubler in place.
Make sure it is flush with the top of the tub.
Put a layer of waxed paper over the jig.
Put the tub aft bottom in the jig and set the
tub onto it.
The bottom sheet should be flush with the
front of bulkhead 1.
Make sure that the aft bottom has about a
1/16 inch overhang at the rear.

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Transom braces in place against the transom doubler.
1/8x1/8 square basswood strips in place.
Tub sub nose being glued in place. Tub extends just past jig.
Set the 1/8 ply transom braces in place
against the transom.
Measure and cut the 1/8x1/8 basswood to
fit between the bulkheads.
These get glued with the bottom and
reinforce the side to bottom joint.
You should end up with 4 pieces.
If all is well, glue the aft bottom in place with
epoxy.
Also glue the transom braces and 1/8
basswood in place.
Fully clamp the jig sides to the jig.
Glue the tub sub nose to the very front of
the tub. This supports the nose for
sheeting, and provides a solid base for the
tub nose block.
When the tub bottom has cured, let’s move
on to boom tube alignment.
This is probably the most critical step in the
assembly, so take all the time needed to
get this right.
Remove the tub from the jig.