Jayco Jayflight BHS 31 User manual

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The Mobile Hacienda
Jayco Jayflight BHS 31
Renter’s Manual
HAVE A SAFE AND
COMFORTABLE TRIP!

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. EMERGENCY CONTACTS
2. 2006 JAYCO JAYFLIGHT BHS 31 SPECS
3. DRIVING WITH A TRAILER
4. SETTING UP
SECURING THE TRAILER
THE SLIDEOUT
HOOKUPS
ELECTRICITY
WATER
SEWER
BLACK & GREY WATER DUMPING
PROPANE
HEATER & A/C
HOT WATER
REFRIGERATOR & MICROWAVE
GAS COOK TOP
LIGHTS
CONTROL PANEL
FUSES
TOILET
SHOWER
CAMPING ACCESSORIES
GENERATOR (if applicable)
5. PACKING UP
6. RETURN CLEANING CHECKLIST

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7. OWNER SUPPLIED PROVISIONS
FEES ADDENDUM
1. EMERGENCY CONTACTS
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY DIAL 9-1-1
OWNERS: Jered Wisdom [phone]
Lauren Wisdom [phone]
OUTDOORSY SUPPORT 1-877-723-7232
OUTDOORSY ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE 1-877-978-7222
RVSHARE SUPPORT 1-888-482-0234
RVSHARE ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE 1-855-229-9696
For Roadside assistance have your membership ID number ready, as well as your
vehicle information and current location (including any mile marker, highway number,
city, street, nearest intersection or landmark). Once membership is verified, a customer
service representative will dispatch services to accommodate your needs.
SMOKING AND PETS ARE STRICTLY
PROHIBITED IN THIS TRAILER
HAVING SUCH WILL RESULT IN THE FORFEITURE OF SECURITY
DEPOSITS AND MAY WARRANT ADDITIONAL FEES

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2. 2006 Jayco Jayflight BHS 31 –SPECS
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 6885 (lbs)
Dry Hitch Weight (lbs) 970 (lbs)
Hitch Specs 2 5/16” ball Husky Centerline
Model 32218 with spring
barsand and 7 pin plug
Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating 9000 lbs
Cargo Carrying Capacity 2110 lbs
Exterior Length 33'
Exterior Width 6’ 9”
Exterior Height 11.2"
Interior Height 81"
Fresh Water Capacity 46 gal
Water Heater 6 gal
Gray Wastewater Capacity 32.5 gal
Black Wastewater Capacity 32.5 gal
3. ATTACHING & DRIVING WITH A TRAVEL TRAILER
The driver may have to move the tow vehicle slightly forward and/or back to get
the camper hitch locked once the trailer’s hitch is lowered onto the ball. NO
beating or prying necessary, just move the tow vehicle a bit until the trailer hitch
properly fits over the ball and the latch can be easily secured. Make certain that
cotter pins are secured, latch the hitch lock and the following are attached:
electric cable, safety brake cable, tow chains.
Do not exceed the posted speed limit. Relax, take your time, you’re on vacation.
Give yourself plenty of time and space when stopping, never slam on the brakes
and remember, you need extra room when turning a trailer especially when
making right turns. Give yourself plenty of room when pulling up to and away
from gas pumps or anywhere.
Be aware of trailer sway. A few factors can cause the trailer to sway and fishtail –
excessive speed, cross winds, draft from passing tractor trailers, and an

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unbalanced load inside the trailer (i.e. don’t pack all your gear on one side or in
the back). The best way to correct trailer sway is to avoid it in the first place -
avoid travel during heavy crosswind weather and be aware of large trucks coming
up from the rear to counter-steer their bow wave drafts. If your trailer starts to
sway on the road, the NHTSA recommends activating the manual brake control
override by hand. Applying the tow vehicle brakes will generally make the sway
worse. Lift your foot from the accelerator but do not step on the brake pedal
unless you’re in danger of
hitting something. https://blog.nationwide.com/rv-towing-tips-for-preventing
trailer-sway/
A stabilizing sway bar/weight distribution hitch is available and is strongly
recommended if it works with your vehicle.
The trailer is not to be driven on any unpaved roads except those in licensed RV
parks and campgrounds or maintained municipal roads. DO NOT drive on
unmaintained roads, logging roads, forest service roads, beaches, etc.
4. SETTING UP
SECURING THE TRAILER ON YOUR SITE
∙Position the trailer in a flat location so that the utility hookups are easily
reachable (pull in so that the hook ups are located facing the backside of the
trailer –opposite side of door - close enough that the hoses and cords can
reach the hookups). Also be mindful that you will need room on the slideout
side for it to be extended without hitting anything.
∙When the trailer is in the preferred location, put the chocks under the wheels –
this will prevent the trailer from accidentally moving.
∙Disconnect cotter pins, electric cable, safety brake cable, tow chains and
unlock hitch (replace the cotter pins and lock so they aren’t lost).
∙Place jack foot back on the bottom of the jack, place a block under the jack
foot and disconnect the trailer from the vehicle by raising the jack until it
clears the ball hitch.
∙Move vehicle forward.
∙The camper is leveled by raising and lower the jack at the front of the trailer
and adding blocks under the wheels when necessary. There is a small level
in the cubby under the kitchen sink.
∙Wind down the four stabilizer jacks with the stabilizer jack crank located in
the front storage area. Use one yellow leveler block or piece of wood under
each stabilizer jack to provide a flat surface if needed or if it is real muddy.
When adjusted, the stabilizer jacks should be in the shape of a diamond, and

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just resting on the blocks for stabilizing only.
Warning: The stabilizer jacks are NOT designed to level
or elevate the trailer. Rule of Thumb: stabilizer jacks
are FIRST TO GO UP when taking down, and LAST TO
GO DOWN when setting up.
THE SLIDE OUT
∙Now remove the cover from the Slide-out switch and press “OUT”. After the slide
has traveled out just enough to walk to the other end of the slide, stop and look
between the back of the slide, on both ends, and the wall (below where TV is
sitting). Make sure nothing has fallen back there during travel as this can keep the
slide from completely going out.
∙Once the area around the slide is all clear on the inside make sure there is
nothing outside that the slide is going to hit.
∙Now continue to press the “OUT” button until it completely stops extending, if
hooked to electricity it will make a “popping” sound as it tries to extend further.
Warning: Slide must be all the way in or all the way
out, otherwise rain can get inside along with insects
and anything else.
∙You will get 4 keys for the camper: 1 black key with rounded corners
opens the main door, 2 black square keys, one for each of the doors in
the bunk room, and 1 brass key for the storage compartments/shower.

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HOOKUPS
Outdoor
Shower
City Water Hook-up
Electric Cord Storage, door lifts up, cord pulls
in/out

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ELECTRICITY
∙The battery ALONE will only power the
lights, furnace fan, front jack, & slideout.
∙The camper and electrical cable/plug are 30 AMPS.
∙Pull 30 amp plug from very rear of trailer, at campsite electric pedestal turn
breaker to OFF and plug into provided 30 amp electrical hookup outlet. Then turn
breaker ON.
∙If the provided hook-up outlet is only 50 amp use the 50 amp adapter
∙ If the provided hook-up outlet is only 15 amp use the small 15 amp adapter
(i.e. looks like a normal household outlet) but then DO NOT run several
electrical items at once such as A/C and microwave

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WATER
∙Connect the provided hose to the campsite spigot. Let it run 30 seconds, then
shut off.
∙Connect the hose to blue water filter which has the copper/brass pressure
adapter and elbow attached. Let it run 30 seconds, then shut it off. Note:
disconnect the elbow connecter and connect it to camper first then connect
Brass elbow
Water filter
Pressure Regulator

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pressure regulator and water filter to that.
Copper water pressure adapter MUST be attached somewhere in the hose setup
to prevent water line breakage in the camper.
∙Turn on a faucet in the trailer to bleed air
from the lines.
∙If you do not have water hookups on
your campsite, you will need to have the
fresh water tank filled, we can do that for
you before you leave (it is more weight to haul) or you can do that
yourself at the campsite.
∙When not connected to city
water supply, turn on the switch for
the water pump on the control panel
(water/pump) located on the wall to
the right of the refrigerator when you
require water.
∙Turn the switch off when running water is no
longer required.
∙The fresh water tank capacity is 46 gallons, the grey water tank (waste water from
sink and shower) capacity is 32.5 gallons. Please be mindful that the grey water
tank will need to be emptied (at a designated pump out station) regularly if in
regular use, do not let tank get too full as it will back up into the sinks and shower.
The guage lights on the control panel are not accurate.

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Fresh Water Fill
Fresh Water Drain
Valve
Over flow release
for fresh water tank

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SEWER
∙If at a full-service camp site, connect the sewage discharge hose (stored in
the black tube on lower front of trailer) to the trailer and the site sewer
Goes in sewer drain
Hose connected to trailer

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connection.
BLACK AND GREY WATER DUMPING
∙The black lever and the gray lever stay closed (pushed in) at all times until
ready to dump.
∙Use the levers to empty the black (toilet) and grey (sink/shower) water tanks
(located on driver’s side of camper) by pulling the levers out. If possible,
flush the toilet while initially dumping the tank to help flush it out.
∙Grey water lever is grey and is infront of the tires (will be under the slide out if
it is extended) and the black water lever is black and is beside the sewage
discharge connection.
∙IMPORTANT: Dump the black water first by pulling out the lever. When tank is
empty, you should hear water flowing or not. Then dump the grey water by
pulling out the gray lever until tank is empty, then push in the levers to
close the tank. Emptying the grey water tank SECOND will help clean the
sewage discharge hose.
∙Rubber gloves are provided to assist in the dumping of the black and grey
water tanks. The gloves are in a plastic bag in the front storage
compartment with the sewer fitting. Please return unused gloves to the
tote when you are done.
∙The black and grey water tanks must be dumped before the trailer is returned
or a $50 fee will apply.
Gray Water Tank
(sink/shower waste) Pull Valve

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Hot Water Heater Panel/
Exhaust will be hot if
Running on propane
Furnace Exhaust,
Will be hot if on
Black Pull valve for black tank (toilet)
Sewer Hose attachment, twist cap off, twist
Sewer hose on

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PROPANE & REFRIGERATOR
∙The propane will power the stove top, oven, water heater, heating system
(except the fan on the furnace) and the refrigerator when traveling (when
appropriate frig switch is on).
∙If you need to use the refrigerator to keep food cold while transporting the
camper, it must be turned on several hours before travel in order to get
cold.
∙When traveling, make sure the propane tank is on and turn the refrigerator
switch to “AUTO”. When on “AUTO” it will first check for electric source, if
electric is off it will check for gas.
∙Turn the propane supply on by turning the knob on top of the propane tank all
the way to the open direction –THIS IS MOST LIKELY ALREADY ON. If you are
on a trip and run out of gas you may have to switch tanks. If so, close the tank
valve that was open, and then open the valve on the second tank. The black
knob on the post between the two tanks should be pointed down or towards
the tank that is open.
Pair of propane tanks w/o the
cover

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HEAT & A/C
∙Thermostat is located on the wall under the control panel to the right of
refrigerator.
∙Slide switch to either “COOL” or “HEAT” and slide setting to desired
temperature.
∙Slide “FAN” switch to “HIGH” or “LOW”.
∙The heating system uses a lot of propane, but if you are in below freezing
temperatures and using water in the camper it must be on to prevent
freezing. The furnace fan uses electricity, if you are not plugged in to
electricity running the furnace all night will run the battery down after 1-2
nights.
∙The AC requires electric hook up and will NOT work off the battery.
∙Turn AC OFF when not in use or not connected to electricity.
Sewer Hose Storage
Tube
Tank Cover, just lifts
off

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HOT WATER
∙Hot water heater runs on propane or electric (if hooked to electricity), and is
only 6 gallons. Make sure there is water in the tank before turning on the
hot water heater or you will burn out the heater; either by making sure city
water is hooked up, or fresh water tank being full and water pump is on.
∙On the control panel on the wall to the right of the refrigerator, turn the
ELECTRIC hot water supply switch on 10-15 minutes prior to use to allow
time for water to heat up. If you don’t have electricity, use the LP GAS
switch.
∙You should hear the hot water tank ignitor click and the gas ignite. The water
tank is located in the wall under the television.
∙Wait approximately 10-15 minutes for the water to heat up.
∙Turn OFF the hot water switch when no longer required/in use.
∙Leaving the hot water heater LP GAS switch on will deplete your propane
supply.
MICROWAVE
∙The microwave will only run on electricity –NOT on the battery.
GAS COOK TOP
∙Ensure the propane tank is in the ON position.
∙Turn the cook top burner to LITE position and use the lighter from in the cubby
under the sink. Once lgnited turn to desired level.
∙If cook top does not ignite in a few seconds and if you don’t hear anything coming
out check the propane tanks on the front. It may be empty.
∙The oven must be manually ignited. Turn the oven knob to “PILOT” and push and
hold knob in while using the lighter from the cubby to light the oven at the location
shown in the picture below.

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LIGHTS
∙Exterior & Interior light switch located just inside the door to the left.
∙Additional Interior lights: switch is located in the center of each individual light.
∙Bathroom light switch and exhaust fan is located on wall above the bathroom sink.
CONTROL PANEL
∙Located on the wall to the right of the refrigerator. The guage on the control
panel for the various tanks is not accurate.
FUSE PANEL
∙Fuse/breaker panel is located on very back wall under the bottom bunk. To access
it you will likely have to fold the bunk up.
∙If a breaker trips, pull the cover off of the fuse panel..
∙Check for the tripped breaker and flip it off then
on to reset.
∙Do not use too many appliances at once (kettle,
Hair dryer, A/C, heater, etc.) this will trip breakers.
∙The fuses on the right could blow and extra fuses are located in drawer
located on the very back wall between the bunks. To tell if a fuse is blown,
pull it out and see if the metal is split in half, will often have a burnt
appearance.