Kenex 701 User manual

8 ft -5-Sided Pool Cabana
Assembly Instructions
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Required Tools:
Screwgun or Variable SpeedDrill
Screwdriver Bit (Robertson # 2)
Hammer
Handsaw
Circular Saw
Tape Measure
Step Ladder
Level
Shingles Required:
6 Bundles of asphalt shingles or
7 Bundles of cedar shingles
Note: Assistance may be required to
position and secure some elements.
Make sure that the ground is level to
start.
Parts List on Next Page
The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble
your shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanation are
offered to make it simple (and fun) for those who have little experi-
ence with a project of this nature. Should you have any questions
(or suggestions), please don’t hesitate to call our toll-free customer
service line @ 1-800-606-8911 or 905-840-9469 in the GTA.
Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of
this package against the part list prior to assembly. Any material
defects or shortages must be reported before you begin assembly,
otherwise part replacement charges will apply to all requests.
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For support and Installation videos please visit www.egsheds.com

PAGE PAGE
SECTION A -GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS SECTION 5 - RIGHT SIDE WALL ASSEMBLY
A 14
SECTION 1 - FLOOR WALL PLATES - 2 @ 44 1/2"
4STUDS - 3 @ 75"
JOISTS - 2 @ 93" SIDING - 6 @ 48"
JOISTS (45 D) - 93", 77", 61" BEVEL STUD - 1 @ 75"
PLATE - 96" , 93", 67 7/8" (22 D), 48" (22 D) , 46 1/2" (22 D) WINDOW SPACERS - 2 @ 22 1/2"
PLATE - 1 @ 67 7/8" SIDING - 4 @ 12 3/4"
PLATE - 1 @ 48"
RUNNERS - 96", 96" (45 D), 59 SECTION 6 - LEFT SIDE WALL ASSEMBLY
5/8" PLYWOOD - 2 16
WALL PLATES - 2 @ 48"
SECTION 2 - FRONT WALL ASSEMBLY STUDS - 3 @ 75"
7BEVEL STUD - 1 @ 75"
FRONT WALL PLATES 2 @ 67 7/8" SIDING - 14 @ 5"
STUDS - 2 @ 75" SIDING - 1 @ 48"
BEVEL STUDS - 2 @ 75"
SIDING - 6 @ 68" SECTION 7 - ERECTING THE WALLS
SIDING - 6@ 9" 18
BAR WINDOW HEADERS - 2 @ 48 1/2" SECTION 8 - ROOF ASSEMBLY
BAR WINDOW TOP SUPPORTS - 3 @ 8 1/2" 20
BAR WINDOW BOTTOM SUPPORTS - 3 @ 28 3/4"
SECTION 9 - SOFFITS
SECTION 3 - LEFT BACK WALL ASSEMBLY 27
10 BACK SOFFITS - 4 @ 60" (45 D)
BACK WALL PLATES - 2 @ 89" FRONT SOFFITS - 1 @ 85" (45 D)
STUDS - 7 @ 75" SIDE SOFFITS - 2 @ 72" (45 D)
SIDING - 8 @ 96"
SECTION 9 A - FASCIA
SECTION 4 - RIGHT BACK WALL ASSEMBLY 28
12 BACK FASCIA - 4 @ 60"
BACK WALL PLATES - 2 @ 96" FRONT FASCIA - 1 @ 85"
STUDS - 7 @ 75" SIDE FASCIA - 2 @ 72"
SIDING - 8 @ 96"
SECTION 10 - CORNERS
HARDWARE PACKAGE 29
BACK CORNERS - 3 @ 82" (2 3/8"
3" FRAMING NAILS - 5 LBS BACK CORNERS - 3 @ 82" (3")
1 3/4" SIDING NAILS - 8 LBS FRONT CORNERS - 4 @ 82" (2 1/2"
1" ROOFING NAILS - 2.5 LBS SKIRT - BACK - 2 @ 96"
2" FINISHING NAILS - 1/2 LB SKIRT - FRONT - 1 @ 67 7/8"
DOOR KNOB SKIRT - SIDE - 2 @ 48"
SCREWS - 1 1/2" - 6 OZ
SCREWS - 3 " 1 LB SECTION 11 - DOOR ASSEMBLY
30
STEEL DOOR ASSEMBLY
TOP DOOR CASING - 1 @ 44"
SIDE DOOR CASING - 2 @ 73 3/8"
DOOR KNOB
PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR HELPFUL INSTALLATION VIDEOS - www.egsheds.com
TOLL FREE SUPPORT LINE - 1-800-606-8911
GUARANTEE
The contents of this package are guaranteed to be complete and fit for assembly.
Check the contents of the package against the parts list. If a part is missing or
damaged please call us immediately @ 1-800-606-8911 for assistance.
PARTS CHECK LIST AND TABLE OF CONTENTS

Western Red Cedar Siding - Important
Your Western Red Cedar siding is designed to be installed with the rough side out as shown in
the pictures below. Your starterpiece for each wall section will have the small “lip” removed.
Small Lip at bottom
Canexel Siding - Important
Canexel has a distinct nail line near the top of each piece for proper nail placement. Nails can
be applied to the face for added support where the face is covered by trim. Make sure that
each piece locks into the one below as shown in the picture. The starter pieces are not ripped.
Nail Line

When screwing or nailing be careful not to set the fastener too close to the edge,
or the end, of a piece of wood. Corners and casings should have 3" between a
fastener and the end of the piece to prevent splitting.
When nailing the cedar channel siding smooth side out to the 2x4framing, place
the nails so that they penetrate the thicker part of the board, set in at least 3/4"
from the overlap and underlap. For Canexel models use the nailing strip.
3/4"
Throughout the instructions reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please remember that planing at the
sawmill has reduced to size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2"
thinner and narrower that stated (ie 2x3 is actually 1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or
width is given for material that we have machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated.
Keep in mind that wood is a natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage, therefore the size of some parts
many vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, but should not be cause
for concern.
Squaring a Frame
A) General Instructions and Helpful Hints
Please read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly
The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measurements. The distances
shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud. Studs are 1 1/2" wide when stood on edge,
so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When placing studs it is often convenient to mark the stud
center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away on one or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with
an "X" so as not to confuse it with an edge mark.
Marking the Plates
Assembly Instruction Organization
Page 3
The instructions are organized into eleven sections. It is strongly recommended that you assemble your cabana in the
order presented. Our experience has shown that assemblers meet with the most success when all the kit parts are
identified and sorted according to the section prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on page A.
When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the same time by laying them
side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other.
Screwing and Nailing
rev. 04/06/16
overlap
underlap
groove
3/4"
3/4"
To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from
corner to corner each way) checking that the
two measurements are the same. If they are
not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that
the two measurements become the same.
Measurement A
should equal
Measurement B
Your Canexel Maintenance Free siding is a high quality maintenance free finish that does not require painting.
The PVC trim is also maintenance free.
Recommended Finish
A Word about Pool Cabanas
If you intend to use your cabana as a facility to house gas fired pool heating equipment, be sure to consult with your local gas
service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting your cabana. This will ensure that all clearances are
adhered to, and that you are able to position the roof trusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater.
A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood Properties
AB
24"
48"

1) Floor Assembly Instructions
Floor Framing
96"
93"
48"
46 1/2"
68"
92 3/4"
76 3/4"
page 4
flush here
flush here
2 - 3" nails
rev. 06/16/99
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for
each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud
stays flush with the plate.
1) Lay out the plates and the joists 16" on center as
shown above.
16" 16" 16" 16" 16"
60 3/4"

page 5
rev. 06/16/99
96"
2 x 6
runners
1'x 2'
patio
stones
93"
1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling.
3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims or
blocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame.
2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling
and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly
of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass
under the cabana.
If it is not possible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage,
poured concrete footings may be used.
Final Assembly and Positioning
2) Attach the 2 x 6 P.T. runners on their face to the bottom of the floor, setting them in 6" from the
edges. Use two - 3" galvanized nails per joist.
1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. We
recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive
shimming.
Important note: You may find it easier to frame the roof and cut the sheathing panels on the floor.
If this is the case don't forget to do this prior to erecting the walls.

page 6
1) Fasten the 2 full sheets of 48" x 96" plywood, starting from the left side as shown below. The
edges of the plywood will assist you in keeping the floor square. Begin by nailing the 4 corners of the
1st sheet, using 1 3/4" nails. Ensure the edge of the plywood stays flush with the outside edges of
the outer joists and plate, and that it only comes to the middle of the inside joist (allowing room for
the 2nd sheet). Position the second sheet next to the first. Mark the sheet along the outer edge of
the plate and cut. Nail both sheets every 8" along all plates and joists.
Floor Sheathing
rev. 06/16/99
Please make sure that you turn all sprinklers away from the cabana. The siding must
not be in contact with the ground.

2) Front Wall Assembly
page 7
bevel
stud
bevel
stud
1) Lay the two - 68" plates (cut 22 1/2° on each end), two studs and two bevel studs as shown
below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel studs with ends of the plates as shown in the
Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below.
bevel studbevel stud
Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing
Not to Scale
rev. 06/16/17
9"
59"
window
opening
48 1/2"
68"

2) Front Wall Assembly - Continued
3) Lay out the two door headers 2x4x48 1/2” as shown. Fasten into the studs using two 3” nails
per side.
4) Position the top and bottom window supports so that they are centered on the window header
Fasten into the plates and header using two 3” nails for each connection.
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5) Lay out the remaining top and bottom window supports as shown. Fasten into the plates and
header using two 3” nails for each connection.
page 8

2) Front Wall Assembly - Continued
6) Square the wall according to the general assembly instructions.
7) Position the first 68” siding piece so that it is flush with the end studs and overhangs the
bottom plate by 3/4”. Fasten into each stud using 1 3/4” siding nails along the nail line.
Repeat for the next 2 courses of 68” siding. Make sure to keep the siding paralell to the top
plate by measuring the distance from the top plate to the top of the siding.
8) Install the 9” courses of siding in the same fashion - making sure to
complete each row before advancing to the next. Complete the front wall siding with
one piece of 68” siding.
9) Trim the siding along the edge of the top and bottom door headers, as well as flush
along the top plate. If the siding does not reach the top plate that is no problem as long as the
gap is 1/2” or less.
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page 9

page 10
3) Left Back Wall Assembly
1) Lay out the two - 89" left back wall plates and seven studs on 16" centers as shown below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate.
rev. 06/16/12
16"
32"
48"
64"
80"
89"

3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
4) There are 7 - 96" pieces of canexel siding required for this wall. Position the first
piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4" and the end studs by approximatelly 3 1/2"
Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4" as before. Measure the distance between
the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the
siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on the spacing as required to ensure that each
subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last siding board to fit flush with the
top of the wall plate or it can sit approximately 1/2" below it.
Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 3 1/2"
page 11
rev. 06/16/17
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
3/4"
96"

page 12
4) Right Back Wall Assembly
rev. 06/16/99
1) Lay out the two - 96" right back wall plates and seven studs on 16" centers as shown below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate.
16"
32"
48"
64"
80"
96"

3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
4) There are 7 - 96" pieces of canexel siding required for this wall. Position the first
piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4". Fasten the first piece to the frame
using 1 3/4" nails as before. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the
upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the
frame. Cheat on the spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with
the top plate. Trim the last board to fit flush with the top of the top plate or it can sit about
1/2" below it.
page 13
rev. 06/16/17
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
3/4"
96"
Siding is flush to the outer
edge of the studs on both sides

5) Right Side Wall Assembly
page 14
rev. 06/17/16
1) Lay the two - 44 1/2" right side wall plates (cut 22 1/2° on one end), three studs and one bevel
stud on 16" centers as shown below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel stud with end of the plates as shown in the
Right SideWall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below.
3) Position the window spacers (2 x 4 x 22 1/2") as
shown in the detail opposite. Using 3" nails, nail each
spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the
spacer stays flush.
bevel stud
8 "
Right SideWall Framing
Perspective Drawing
8 1/2"
34 1/2"
Window Spacer
Positioning Detail
3"
nails 3"
nails
window
opening
22 1/2"
44 1/2"
33 1/2"
9 1/2"

4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
5) Position the first 48" piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by
3/4" and is flush with the framing on the side where the plate is cut at 22 1/2°. The siding should
overhang the the other side of the frame by about 3 1/2". Fasten to the frame using 1 3/4" nails.
Apply the next courses, working up to the bottom of the window. Measure the distance
between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure
that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that
each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Once you reach the bottom of the
window, begin applying the smaller pieces on the left and right of the window with
12 3/4" siding. Next apply one more course of the 48" siding. Trim the last course of siding
flush with the top of the top plate. The top of the window frame may need to be cut out of the
2nd last course.
page 15
rev. 06/17/16
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
3/4"
Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 3 1/2"
48"

6) Left Side Wall Assembly
1) Layout the three studs and bevel stud as per the diagram below. Fasten into the 48" plates
using two 3” nails from the top and bottom.
2) Square the frame as per the general assembly instructions.
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Bevel Stud
page 16
48" Wall Plate
48" Wall Plate

6) Left Side Wall Assembly - continued
3) Position the first 4 3/4” siding piece so that it is flush with the end stud and overhangs the
bottom plate by 3/4” and is flush with the inside of the studs.. Fasten into each stud
using 1 3/4” siding nails along the nail line. Repeat for the first siding piece on the bevel
stud..
4) Install the next 6 courses of siding in the same fashion - making sure to
complete each row before advancing to the next. Make sure to keep each row of siding
paralell to the top plate..
5) Position the last 48” course of siding and fasten as before. Trim the top of the siding
flush to the top of the plate.
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page 17

Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important that
the floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof.
1) Starting with the right back wall, lift the wall into position as shown below. Center the wall on
the floor so that the overhang, if any, is equal on both sides of the floor. Nail scrap packaging
material diagonally across gable wall and floor to help support the wall.
7) Erecting the Walls
Be sure to adequately support the
gable wall before proceeding
page 18
2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the
wall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten wall by
nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals.
floor
nail through bottom
plate every 16" with
3" nails
overhang, if any
should be equal
on both sides of
the floor
scrap
packaging
material
rev. 06/03/99
Erection Plan - Top View
right back wall
left back wall
left side wall
front wall
right side wall

page 19
wall
top plate wall top plate
flush here
5) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail
the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals.
6) Next, position each of the two side walls as shown below. Ensure that the inside corners are
tight with the back walls.
7) Fasten the corners together as detailed in step 4. Do not nail the side wall plates to the floor
yet.
8) Slide the front wall into place between the two side walls.
9) Fasten both front wall corners Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each
other. (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls. With one person pushing the
corner tight, fasten the corner together by using 3" nails to fasten the inside corner in three places,
top, middle and bottom. Leave the front wall plate loose for now.
10) For each of the side walls, with one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against
the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. Leave the front wall plate
loose for now.
rev. 05/06/99
3) Slide the left back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the other wall.
4) Adjust the walls so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you to
temporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner
together from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the gable
corner stud. Reinforce the corner by using three - 3" nails to nail the corner studs together from the
inside.
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