Kenmore 385.16231400 User manual

SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 16231400
OCTOBER, 2003

CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS................................................................. 1
WHAT TO DO WHEN ............................................................................................ 2-4
THREADING OF MACHINE .................................................................................. 5
SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER ...................................................................................... 6
TOP COVER ......................................................................................... 6
BASE PLATE........................................................................................ 7
BED COVER ......................................................................................... 7
BELTCOVER ....................................................................................... 8
FREE ARM COVER ............................................................................. 8
FRONT COVER .................................................................................... 9
REAR PANEL....................................................................................... 10
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION ..................................................................................... 11
PRESSER BARHEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT ....................................... 12
NEEDLE SWING .................................................................................. 13
STRAIGHT STITCHING ....................................................................... 14, 15
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLESWING .................................................. 16, 17
STRETCH STITCH BALANCE............................................................. 18, 19
FEED DOG HEIGHT ............................................................................ 20, 21
NEEDLE BARHEIGHT ........................................................................ 22, 23
NEEDLETO SHUTTLETIMING .......................................................... 24, 25
NEEDLE CLEARANCETO SHUTFLE................................................. 26
BACKLASH(LOWER SHAFT GEAR) .................................................. 27
BUTTONHOLESTITCH BALANCE..................................................... 28, 29
NEEDLE POSITION ............................................................................. 30, 31
ZERO FEEDING ................................................................................... 32, 33
BASIC NEEDLE POSITION ................................................................. 34
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (1) ............................................................ 35
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (2) ............................................................ 36
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (3) ............................................................ 37
NEEDLE THREADER PLATE .............................................................. 38
NEEDLE STOP POSITION .................................................................. 39
PRINT BOARD AND FUSE .................................................................. 40
PRINT BOARD AND CONNECTOR LOCATION ................................. 41
TRANSFORMER .................................................................................. 42
MOTOR BELT TENSION ..................................................................... 43
OILING .............................................................................................................. 44
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED .............................................................................. 45
VI.0

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL385. 16231300
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Upper ThreadGuMe
ThreadTake-upLever_
Thre_adSpool Pin
Thread
Face CoverPlata
Thread Cu#er
Need_ Threader
Needle Plate
Hook Cover Plate
Hook Cover Plate Release Bu#on
Bu#onho/e PitchBalance Adjusting Lever
HandwheeJ
Stitchl
Feed Balancing
_Reverse Con_o/ Button
B_d/Mop Bu#on
Exlension TaMe (Accesso_ Box)
Car_4ngHandle
Bu_onho_e Lever
Presser Foot Lifter
DropFeed Lever
Nomenclature Plate
Machine Socket
/
presser Foot
Snap_n Button

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE
INSERTTHE NEEDLE PROPERLY.1. SKIPPING
STITCHES
2. FABRICNOT
MOVING
1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED
PROPERLY.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. INCORRECTLY THREADED
4. NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC BEING SEWN.
5, SEWING ON STRETCH
FABRIC
6. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
IS TOO WEAK.
7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT
8. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO SHU'I-I'LE TIMING
9. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO SHUTTLE CLEARANCE
1. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
IS TOO WEAK.
2. INCORRECT F.D. HEIGHT
3. F.D. IS IN DOWN POSITION
4. THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE
OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.
5. FEED DOG TEETH ARE
WORN.
CHANGE THENEEDLE.
RETHREAD.
USETHERECOMMENDED
SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD.
USE A #11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE.
ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR
LEVEL TO MAKE THE
PRESSURE STRONGER.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT=NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE."
ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR
LEVEL TO MAKE THE
PRESSURE STRONGER.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "FEED DOG
HEIGHT."
RAISE THE F.D. LEVEL.
MAKE SURE TO BRING
BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN
THREAD UNDER THE FOOT
WHEN STARTING SEWING,
CHANGE THE FEED DOG.
P.22, 23
P.24, 25
P.26
P.20, 21
2

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
CONDITION
3. BREAKING
UPPER
THREAD
4. BREAKING
BOBBIN
THREAD
5. NEEDLE
BREAKS
CAUSE REFERENCE
1, INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS
TOO FAST.
2. THREAD PATH IS
INCORRECT.
3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL.
4, UPPER THREAD TENSION IS
TOO STRONG.
5. NEEDLE SIZE IS
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC.
6. NEEDLE EYE IS WORN,
7. NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE
PLATE ISWORN OR BURRED.
1. INCORRECTLYTHREADED
BOBBIN.
2. TOO MUCH THREAD IS
ON THE BOBBIN.
3. LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE
BOBBIN HOLDER.
4. THREAD QUALITY IS
TOO LOW.
5. THREAD IS JAMMING
AROUND THE BOBBIN.
1. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
SHUFFLE.
4. THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE
THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING
IT, OR THE NEEDLEZIGZAGS
WHILE IN FABRIC.
5. FABRICISBEINGPULLEDTOO
STRONGLY WHILE SEWING.
HOWTO FIX
STARTWITH MEDIUMSPEED.
USE THE PROPER THREAD
PATH.
REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
ADJUST UPPER THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY.
USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE
FOR FABRIC AND THREAD
IN USE.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
REPAIR THE HOLE OR
REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.
THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY.
ADJUST THE POSITION OF
STOPPER.
CLEAN THE SHUTTLE.
CHANGE TOA HIGHER QUALITY
SEWING THREAD.
CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING
THREAD.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
POSITION."
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT=NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
SWING."
GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY
WHILE SEWING.
3
P.30,31
P.26
P.13

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
CONDITION
6. NOISY
OPERATION
7. DEFORMATION
PA'r'FERN
&IMPROPER
BU'I-rONHOLE
RESULTS
CAUSE
1. BACKLASHBETWEEN
SHUTTLEHOOKGEARAND
LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO
GREAT.
2. LOWERSHAFTGEARIS
LOOSE.
&INAPPROPRIATE BELT
TENSION.
4. NOT ENOUGH OIL
5. UPPER SHAFT IS LOOSE.
1. INAPPROPRIATE FEED
BALANCE.
2. INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG
SYNCHRONIZATION.
3. UPPER THREAD TENSION
ISTOO STRONG.
1. BUTTONHOLESTITCH
BALANCEISNOTCORRECT.
2. IMPROPER SIZE ON AUTO
BU'FrONHOLE
3. CHANGING TO BAR TACK
ISTOO EARLYOR WILL NOT
WORK.
4. THE MACHINE STOPS
TOO EARLY OR TOO
LATE, OR DOES NOT
STOP.
HOW TO FIX
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH
(LOWER SHAFT GEAR)."
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "MOTOR
BELT TENSION."
OIL ALL MOVING PARTS.
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
SWING."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "TOP TENSION."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BUTTONHOLE
STITCH BALANCE."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT=BUTrONHOLE
FUNCTION(I)."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION(2)."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION (3)."
REFERENCE
P.27
P.43
P.18, 19
P.13
P.28, 29
P.35
P.36
P.37
4

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
THREADING OF MACHINE
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
DOTTED LINES SHOW THE PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS AND IS THEN
PULLED TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE
HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE THE SPOOL ON A PIN WITH THE THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE
SPOOL.
1. DRAW THE THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.
2. HOLDING THE THREAD TAUT WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND, DRAWTHE THREAD DOWN
INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THE THREAD UPAND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT
TO LEFT.
4. PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFT, AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD
GUIDE.
5. THREAD THE NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
NOTE: YOU MAYWANT TO CUT THE END OF THE THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS
FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING.
5

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400
SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVETHE SETSCREWS (B).
3. TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.
TOP COVER
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVE SETSCREWS (B) AND (C).
3. TAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF.
6

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
BASE PLATE SERVICE ACCESS
1. REMOVE THE FOUR SETSCREWS (A).
2. REMOVE THE BASE PLATE(B).
BED COVER
1.
2. REMOVE THE TWO SETSCREWS (D).
REMOVE THE BED COVER (E).
* WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SET THE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFT
POSITION.
7

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400
BELT COVER
SERVICE ACCESS
BELT COVER
PULL OUT THE STITCH SELECTOR. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A) AND REMOVE
SETSCREW (B). PULLTHE RIGHT SIDE OF BELTCOVER tN THE DIRECTION OF THE
ARROW, AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF, AND THEN REMOVE THE
BELTCOVER.
WHEN YOU REA'I-FACH THE BELT COVER, SET THE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE
ON THE FRONT COVER.
FREE ARM COVER
NEEDLE PLATE
FREEARM COVER
1. REMOVE SETSCREW (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE.
2. REMOVE THE BED COVER (SEE PAGE 7).
3. REMOVE SCREW (B) AND THE FREE ARM COVER.
8

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER
(c)
%
(oJ .-."
_- ",, (B)
<_ (H)
(o)
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), AND THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8).
3. REMOVE SETSCREWS (A) AND (B).
4. LOOSEN SETSCREWS (C) AND (D), THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (E).
5. UNHOOK THE FRONT COVER FROM THE LATCH (F) OF THE REAR COVER.
6. TAKE OFF THE LEFT BoTroM END OF THE FRONT COVER (G).
7. DISCONNECT THE CONNECTORS FOR PRINT BOARD F AND SLIDE VOLUME (H).
NOTE: TO DISCONNECT THE CONNECTORS, REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOARD COVER
(REFER TO PAGE 39).
TO REPLACE, FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE.
9

SEWINGMACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400
REAR PANEL
SERVICE ACCESS
(D) O,-° i-
(E)
PRESSER FC_ TLEVER TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM CO VER
PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT
LEVER \
""a= REAR PANEL UNIT
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT (SEE P.6), THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8) AND THE
FRONT COVER (SEE P.9).
3. REMOVE SETSCREWS (A) ,(B), AND (C), AND LOOSEN SETSCREWS (D,E AND F).
4. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER, AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT FROM
THE MACHINE FRAME. TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE
PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
WHEN YOU REA'I'I"ACH THE REAR PANEL, PUT THE "WINDOW" ON THE PLASTIC
PANEL OVER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER, AND THEN REPLACE THE SIX SCREWS.
10

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
TOP TENSION
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE TENSION DIAL AT "4", AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT.
2. PASS THE THREAD (A) BETWEEN THE DISCS, AND DRAW THE THREAD (A) DOWN
AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG. 1.
3. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT, AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.
4. THE TOP TENSION SHOULD BE BETWEEN 75 AND 90g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD
(A) UP IN THE DIRECTION OF (B).
* USE POLYESTER SEWING THREAD #50 (WHITE).
* IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT (SEE P.9).
2. PULL THE SPRING (C) AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW (D).
3. IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO LOOSE, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION
OF (E).
IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION
OF (F).
(o)
PULL THIS WAY
THREAD TENS/ON DIAL
SETA T "4" (B)
t _j(A)
.!
DETACH
11

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.16231400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT
TO CHECK:
1. RAISETHE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B).
2. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C)
SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24").
* IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE,ADJUSTAS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B), AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET
SCREW (D) ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER (E),
3, ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
(C) TO 6.0 aM (0.24").
4. TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (D) SECURELY.
NOTE: WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (D), MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF
THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) ARE PARALLEL WITH THE FEED DOG SLITS.
C_
(,4)"\
I 6MM
(c)
CB.)
,(
L
(F) FEEDDOGSL/TS
iq i
__ .._HOLI/_DBEPARALLEL
iJ
ii
i i i
12

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL385. 16231300
NEEDLE SWING
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TO CHECK:
IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN
ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
(THE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING 2 (0.08") TO 3MM (0.12") ABOVE THE
NEEDLE PLATE.)
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT" _ ",
AND SELECT THE MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH.
2. LOOSEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM.
3. WHILE HOLDING THE UPPER SHAFT WORM IN PLACE, CAREFULLY TURN THE
HANDWHEEL AND ADJUST IT SO THAT THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM
APOSITION 2MM (0.08") TO 3MM (0.12") ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT
OUTFLOW.
4. TIGHTEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM.
5. ATTACH THE TOP COVER (UNIT).
NOTE: FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER (UNIT), REFER TO
PAGE 2. AFTER THE TIMING ADJUSTMENT OF THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING,
MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT
WORM AND THE OTHER GEAR, AND THAT A SMOOTH ROTATION IS
OBTAINED.
GEAR
UPPER SHAFT
WORM
THE BACKLASH THE BACKLASH
1S DECREASED IS INCREASED.
(NOTE)
MAKE SURE THE WORM DOES
NOT MOVE SIDEWAYS WHEN
TURNING THE UPPER SHAFT
OTHERWISE, THE BACKLASH
BETWEEN THE WORM AND THE
GEAR WILL CHANGE
_2-3MM
A(RIGHT OUTFLOW START
POSITION)
13

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
TO CHECK:1. SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL AT" 0", ANDTHE STITCH SELECTOR AT
2. TURN THE HANDWHEELBY HAND.
3. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO THE SIDE AT THIS SE'I-FING.
_SELECTEDPATI'ERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
t4

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6).
2. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A).
3. MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG
MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
4. RETIGHTEN SETSCREW (A) SECURELY.
15

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO" 0 "AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT .
2. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
3. DROP THE FEED DOGS.
4. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE, AND LOWER THE PRESSER
FOOT.
5. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINT (A) ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY
TURNING THE HANDWHEEL.
6. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
7. TURN THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 6.5.
8. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINTS (B AND C) ON THE PIECE OF
PAPER, BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL.
9. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A-B AND A-C SHOULD BE EQUAL.
_SELECTEDPATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
E
BAC
16

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER, AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D).
2. MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER (E) IN EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE
DISTANCES A TO B, AND A TO C, BECOME EQUAL.
3. TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D) SECURELY.
B A C
(D)
17

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 386. 16231400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRETCH STITCH BALANCE
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT-- -- --, THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT STRETCH
STITCH, AND THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTER AT _91.
2. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER
FOOT.
3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER.
4. THE NEEDLE SHOULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLE IN A FORWARD AND REVERSE
DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOU.
III
III
III
SELECTED PATTERN
STRETCH LENGTH
V 0 _=1 2 3 4
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
18