Kenmore Sears 385.1158180 User manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
SWA/RS
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1158180
or
385. 1168180

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested _n a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this book{et which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleamng, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retaif Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record _n space prowded below the mode_ number and serial
number of thls appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

TABLE OFCONTENTS
SECTION
SECTION
SECTION
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ............ 2
Locate and Tdentify the Parts ................. 2_3
|dentify the Accessories .................... 3
2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ...................... 4_6
•Plug in the Machine and Sw_tch on the Power ..... 4
• Foot Controf Use ...................... 4
• Setting Spool Pin ........................ 5
• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ................. 5
m Thread Cutter ........................... 5
•Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table _ , , 6
• Accessory Storage Box .................. 6
• Change the Presser Foot .................... 6
Choose Your Needle and Thread ............. 6_7
• To Change Your Needle .................. 6
• Cheek Your Needle .... ,, , ................. 7
• Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart ................ 7
Prepare the Bobbin ................... 8_9
s To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ..... 8
a Wind the Bobbin .................... 8_9
o |nsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .......... 9
Prepare Your Top Thread .................. I 0_11
• Thread Your Needle .................. 10
• Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... 11
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ............. t2_13
Stitch Selector .......................... t3
Reverse Stitch Control ....................... 14
Starting To Sew ..................... t4
3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches ................... 15_16
•Stratght Stitch ................... 15
• Use the Seam Guides ................... 15
• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 15
• Use the Darning Plate ................ 16
•Topstltching ..................... 16
• Left Needle Position .................... 16
Darning ............................. 17
Zigzag Stitches ..................... 18_20
• Basic Zigzag ....................... 18
• Satin Stitch ....................... 18
• Monogramming .................... 19
•Bar Tacking ........................ 19
Overcasting Stitch ....................... 20
•Three*Step Zigzag .................... 20
Blind Hemming .......................... 21
Lace Work .............................. 22
Sew in a Zipper ......................... 23_24
Shell Stitching (Mode_ 11681 only) .............. 25
Box Stitching (Model 11681 only) ............. 25
SECTION 4 PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When .................. 26_27
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ................. 28
Cleaning the Machine .................. 28_29
t Clean the Feed Dogs ..................... 28
Clean the Shuttle Race .............. 29
Oiling the Machine ....................... 30
• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the
Arm Cover Plate ...................... 30
• Oil the Underside ....................... 30
PARTS LIST ................................ 3t
INDEX .................................. 32

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
APortable Case or Cabinet isAvailable
A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another optuon _ • buy a Carrying Case .• , then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc \
Top Thread Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
Upper Thread Gutde
Shuttle Cover
Extensi Table
on
(Accessory storage box)
Thread Spool Pin
Bobbin W_nding Spindle
Reverse Stitch Control
Stitch Selector

ArmCoverPlate Carrying Handle
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Identify the Accessories
Hand Wheel
Auto Clutch Knob
Light and
Power SwiIch
Plug Connector
;Presser Foot
Nomenclature Ptate
Foot Control
Needle C_amp Screw
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Bobbin
Needle set
_Large screw driver
f
Small screw driver
Zippertoot
Darning p_

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
Plugin the MachineandSwitchon thePower
NOTE:
1,
2.
3,
Power suppiy plug
Plug
connecto[
Machine
p_ug
J
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF_
Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
Volt AC outlet,
Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one
way,
Insert the power supply p_ug into the outlet.
Power sw_tch %
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine wifl not operate unless the
light]power switch is turned on. )f you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power swttch to prevent injury to
children,
•Foot Control Use
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot_
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE: The foot control _s sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Setting Spoot Pin =Adjust the Presser Foot Lever =Thread Cutter
The spool pin is used for holding the spool
of thread morder to feed thread to the
machine.
To use, purl up the spool pro. Push down
for storage.
Normal up
posJlJon
High pos_t_or
posllton
P
position
........... J
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
You don't need a pmr of smssors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
Puif the threads to _engthen several inches
before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
=Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable t, Accessory Storage Box
Extension Table
To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage
(for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you.
t. Grip the tabte with your index finger Sewtng accessories are convem-
and thumb, as shown, ently located in the box.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension
table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
t, Insert the tab and the pin into their
catches.
2, With your thumb and index finger,
gently snap in.
= Change the Presser Foot
!
Use the correct presser foot for
the stitch you wish to sew.
To change the various presser
feet, raise the presser bar to its
highest position by lifting the
presser foot lever.
Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the
large screw driver to make
certain the foot is secure,
Choose Your Needle and Thread
• To Change Your Needle
Flat
side
away
from
you
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you,
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw bv
turning it toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-
ward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
clamp with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
with the large screwdriver from your
accessory box.

Yourchoiceofneedleandthreaddependsonthefabricyouare
sewing.
Inyourneedleenvelope, you will find the following color-coded
needtes:
Blue [11) ...... for stretch fabrics.
Orange (1 1) ...... for lightweight fabrics.
Red (14) ..... for medium or medium-heavy
weight fabrics.
Purple (16) ....... for medium-heavy weight fabrics
and decorative topstitching on these
fabrics, (This needle has a larger
thread hofe for thicker topstltching
thread,)
Green (18) ...... for heavy weight fabrics and
decorative top-stitching on these
fabrics.
Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears
stores.
= Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs m
kmts, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart
NEEDLE
FABRIC SiZE AND THREAD SIZE
COLOR
........................ I
11-ORANGE
L_ghtwmght:
Batiste, Dimltv, Chiffon,
Silks. Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium We}ght:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percafe, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen_
Wool Crape, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Oen_rn, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabard{ne, Velvets_
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types Of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Kmts,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex_
Cire Tricot
14-RED
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Si}k A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
SHk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
14-R ED Mercerized Heavy.Du ty
or Polyester Core/Cotton
1B-PURPLE Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
1B-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Cotton
Polyester Core!Cotton
Wrap
Si_k A
Buttonhole Twist
IUse as tOp thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and
be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness, 7

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
•To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Remove the extension table from
the machine by pulling it to the
left, Open the shuttle cover by
pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover,
Rinse needle to its highest posit_on
by rotating hand wheel toward you,
To remove bobbin case from shut-
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
=Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turning the
clutch knob inside the hand wheel
toward you to stop the needle from
moving while you winding the
bobbin,

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
=Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
Draw thread from spool through
bobbin wmd;ng tension disc as shown.
Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown.
7
Place bobbin onto bobbin winding
spindle with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
bobbin winding spindle to the right
until it clicks. Holding onto end of
thread, start machine. When bobbin is
slightly filled, snip off end of thread.
k
Wind thread until winder stops.
Push bobbin winding spindle to the
lef_ and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
Turn clutch knob away from you
while holding hand wheel for normal
sewing operation.
•Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
(-
::ii! ¸¸/,
Place bobbin in bobbin case
making sure thread feeds clock-
w_se and ts coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.
Pull thread under teoslon
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4
inches of thread from bobbin.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare Your Top Thread
,, ThreadYour Needle
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations,
Dotted lines show places where the thread
loops and then is pulled t_ght.
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise presser foot lever.
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands,
2,
3.
4.
5.
NOTE:
While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
Draw thread down and slip tt into needle bar thread guide.
Thread needle from front to back.
You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
1o

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
!
Raise presser foot iever. Ho|d top
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheeL toward you one comptete
turn.
2_ Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
top thread,
3. Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps gtven above, then check:
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2, ls thread tangled around needle?
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?
5. Is bobbin properly Lnstalled in the bobbin case?
6. ls the machine threaded according to the instructions?
11

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Top side ot fabric
Top
thread
fobbin
thread
Settmgrnark
Loosen
f
Tighten
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
tf you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
When adjustmg top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
th read.
Choose the Correct Tenslon:
The best tension will depend on;
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
---- the number of fabric layers
--- the type of stitch
The top thread
is too loose.
o?&
The top thread
appears on the
underside o| the
_abr_e,
Tension _s too loose:
The top thread shows through the
bottom of the fabric. The bottom side
of the stitch will feel bumpy.
f
The top thread
_stoo tight
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surlace Ot the
Jabric.
k,........
Tension is too tight:
The bobbin thread will come through
the top of the fabric. The top s_de of
the stitch will feel bumpy.
12

For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads wilt not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top
tension.
Top tension Top tension
Too Tight Too Loose
Top side of Fabric Top slde o| Fabric
Just Right
f
Top s_deot Fabric
_ottom side of Fabric Bottom side ot Fabric Bottom side of Fabric
Too Tight: Too Loose: Just Right:
-- Corner ot each -- The top thread Minimize the amount
zigzag will pull will toop through ot top thread visible on
together on the bottom side of the bottom side ol
top side of tabr_cs, fabric and wit| be tabric wtthout causing
pulled ekmost excessive puckering or
together, causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top stde, Results vary
with labrlc_ thread and
sew;ng conditions.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Stitch Selector
Model 11681
Stitch W_"'""''i_
Selector//__
The stitch selector control not only determines the
stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for
regular zigzag and stitch length for straight stltches.
The different types of stitches are designated by color.
Strmght, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are orange.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure
your needle is up and out of fabric when
adjusting this control,
Model 11581
cl l,,,°4
13

SECTION 2. PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
Reverse Stitch Control Starting To Sew
To reverse stitch, hold down this control during
sewing.
Release to sew forward again.
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for
the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine.
Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. inspect the needle, It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, it should be the
correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle
frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more
easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn
about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3or
4,stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should be double
thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
4, Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the
needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate
when making a simple seam,
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed, The more pressure you put on the foot controf, the faster
the machtne will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand m front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric m
such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
14

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
•Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
jl!
Top thread tension
controt 2 to 6
Stra=ght foot Zigzag foot
1. Raise the presser foot,
2. Raise the needle to its highest
posmon.
3, Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching grade line on the
needle plate f5/8" is most
common).
4. Draw the threads towards the
back and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently
guide it atong the grade line, so
that it feeds naturatlv.
Do not force the fabric or try to
pull it tight.
7. "At the end of the seam, you may
want to reverse to lock the st=tch.
8. Raise the presser foot and remove
the fabric,
9, Cut the threads,
Use the Seam Guides
The seam guides on the needle plate
are there to help you measure seam
wldth. The lines are I/8" apart, with
the 518" and 718 `° lines marked.
Turn a Square Corner
I g
............... J
To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge:
1. Stop stitching and tower the
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabrm edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8"' seam guide,
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction, 15

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches (Continued)
o Use the Darning Plate
Sometimes when you sew, you want
to control the fabric yourseff.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs
so that they do not touch the fabric.
To put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the
Darning Plate match the
holes m the needle plate. In
the darning plate, these
holes are slightly to the left
of center.
1. Position the darning plate with
the 3 pros on the bottom.
2. Fit the darning plate p_ns into the
needle plate holes. The feed dogs
wilt show through the darning
plate holes.
Use the darning plate in the following
ways: Darning (P. 1Z7)
• Topstitching
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
I
Top thread tens=on
control :2 to 6
Straight foot Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitching emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent sutts or blouses with one or
two rows of topst_tching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
Here's How
1.
2.
3,
Lower the presser foot.
Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge of the presser
foot.
Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstitchmg 3/8" from the edge,
Left Needle Position
Stitch selector
©
Use Left Needle Position for more
control while topstitching or edge
stitching difficult fabrics,
NOTE: Use only zigzag presser
foot for Left Needle
Sewing.
16

Darning
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
II
Top thread tension
control t to 4
No presser
foot
Darmn9 plate
Here's How
1, Put the darning plate on the needle plate
{seeP, 16).
2. Remove presser foot and stretch fabric
between embroidery hoops with hole
centered.
3.
4.
5.
6.
NOTE :
Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one 'stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
Lower the presser bar and sew at astow
speed.
Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
Turn the fabric half turn and sew another
layer of stitching over the first layer.
If your fabric Js thin or badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
under the hole to reinforce _t.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
piatm 17

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches
•Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 2 to 5
Zigzag foot
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a zigzag
stitch. Consult the specific variations
for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch p. 18,
Monogramming p. 19,
Bar Tacking p. 19,
Overcasting p. 20,
Three-step zigzag p. 20.
The Stitch and Its Uses
The zigzag stitch _s one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility
stitch for hemming, overcasting,
mending and darning, it can also be
used to decorate with trims and cut-
out work or as a decorative stitch.
Satin Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control ! to 4
Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
ample, blankets, tinens, tablecloths
and napkins}.
18