KSG XTREME CS User manual

KSG Motorsports 319 1/2 Samlola Rd. Blountville, Tn 37617 423-323-3494
ARCOR & ROAR NATIONAL CHAMPION

We are pleased that you have purchased the most complete and
competitive 1/10 oval car available today. The XCS (Xtreme Corner Speed) was
designed and tested by Jim and Andy McClellan (2002 Arcor, Norrca, and Roar
Pro Mod National Champion). We have tested and changed the design several
times to ensure that the kit you have purchased will be very competitive when it
hits the track for the very first time.
Some features of the XCS include the ability of offsetting the rear pod .300
without having to purchase any extra components other than a set of offset
hubs. The front of the chassis is slotted so that you can change the cars wheel
base by sliding the front end front to rear. We have included a custom CNC
machined center shock mount. This mount is functional and also light weight.
You can adjust the center shocks height in 7 different positions. A never seen
before feature for the side shocks is the ability to change their outer mounting
position in 4 different places without the need of different length ball studs. The
aluminum servo mounts have been drilled and tapped with 3 sets of holes in the
bottom so you can move them to different locations without having to redrill your
chassis several times. CNC machined aluminum caster blocks have been
included so that you can adjust the camber gain of the front end. Also titanium
tierods have been included. The battery tray has a place so that you can mount
your speed control behind the battery pack. This makes for short wires on the
speed control and also adds left side weight to your car. The pods bulkheads
have been CNC machined and have already been lightened for you. The bottom
plate of the pod has a unique feature. You can change the amount of rear steer
that you have by changing two rear steer slugs that go in it. These slugs keep
the pod and t-plate aligned very accurately.
All of the parts in the kit have been track tested and proven. And if that’s
not enough we have even anodized all the aluminum blue to make this the most
complete kit you have every purchased. Please follow all of the instructions to
insure that when finished you have a perfectly built race car.
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Your car kit comes with an Associated strut style front
end. Follow the instructions included in the front end
for assembly. We have included a set of KSG aluminum
adjustable caster blocks (Bag A). These caster blocks
will take the place of the stock ones that come with
the front-end kit. The bottom hole is the stock position
and the other 2 holes can be used to change the
camber gain of your front end. You will need to use the four 2-56 x3/8 SHCS
Your XCS is manufactured from woven graphite sheet and cut out on a CNC
milling machine to hold close tolerances. Remove the chassis and graphite
components and wet sand the edges to remove any sharp burrs from the
machining process. The battery tray edges should be filed to provide a smooth
angled edge for the batteries and tape to sit against.
Fig. 1
After the front end is completely assembled each side
needs to be mounted to the chassis. We have included
four .100 aluminum spacers to go between the chassis
and front-end assemblies. (Bag A) You will need to use
the four 8-32x1/2 FHCS provided in the front end kit to
attach the front end to the chassis. You need to leave
these screws just loose enough so that you can slide
the assembly front to back. If you have a set of calipers
you can measure the placement of the assemblies by checking the distance from
the front of the chassis to the front of the assembly. If you don’t have any
calipers just slide the assemblies all the way to the front or back for the
wheelbase you want. When the assemblies are in place tighten the four screws
securely (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2
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The next step is very critical, so take your time in
mounting the servo. (Bag A) The aluminum servo
mounts are drilled with three holes so that you can
move the servo front to rear, to adjust bump steer and
ackerman, without re-drilling your chassis several
times. One critical item is to make sure the servos
output shaft is centered with the centerline of the
chassis. For additional information and drilling
procedures refer to the Associated front-end manual.
The servo will be mounted to the servo mount with the four 4-40x3/8 aluminum
screws provided in the front-end kit. The mounts are fastened to the chassis
with two 4-40x1/4 FHCS. After the servo and front end are fastened to the
chassis, you can attach the front bumper by using the two 8-32x3/8 FHCS and
two flat 8-32 nuts found in the front-end kit. The two short body posts (Bag B)
will be fastened to the bumper by two 4-40x3/8 BHCS. You can place the body
post in any of the three provided holes. Also place one of the provided collars on
each body post and secure each of them in place with the 4-40x1/8 set-screw
(Fig. 3).
Fig. 3
(Bag C) The rear aluminum cross mount is used to mount
the rear body posts and side shock outer mounts.
Assemble the cross mount so that the side shock
mounts will be to the front of the car and the one mount
with the pad (which is for your speed control switch) is
to the left side. You will use four 4-40x1/4 BHCS to
attach the mounts. Next you will need to place one 4-40
ball-stud in each side shock mount. The ball end of the stud will need to go
toward the rear of the car. Place an aluminum locknut on each of the studs and
tighten them in place. You can choose to use any of the four mounting positions
provided. Next you can install the rear body post mounts. They will go on top of
the aluminum cross mount. They will point to the rear and the outside of the car.
Use two 4-40x1/4 BHCS to fasten them in place. Next attach the two long body
post to the mounts with two 4-40x3/8 BHCS. Also place one of the provided
collars on each body post and secure each of them in place with the 4-40x1/8
set-screw. Lay the cross mount assembly to the side for now. It will be
fastened to the chassis later (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4
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(Bag D) We are now going to assemble the pivot ball
sockets and fasten them to the t-plate. *We suggest
using 600 grit sandpaper to sand the steel balls and
polishing them with polishing compound. * The
sockets consist of two halves and one steel ball.
Place the socket half with the shoulder on it into the t-
plate. Next , place the steel ball into the socket and
then place the sockets top half onto the ball. Now use
four 2-56x5/16 BHCS to fasten the socket to the t-plate. Repeat this procedure
for the other pivot socket. You will need to make sure that the balls move freely
in the sockets when the screws are tightened. This will insure proper operation
(Fig. 5).
Fig. 5
We are now ready to assemble the rear pod. (Bag D)
Take the bottom plate and lay it on a flat surface with
the long ear of the bottom plate pointing to the right.
Now you will need to take the 0-degree rear steer
slugs (Also available in ½ deg increments ) and look
at the shoulder on them. If you look at the end
opposite to the end with the hole you will notice that
it has a flat side. This makes them so that they will
only go in the bottom plate in one direction. Look at the bottom plate to see
which way they go in and then press them into the bottom plate. It is also helpful
to take an x-acto knife and slightly bevel the edges where the slug fits into the
bottom plate. This will help get it started into the bottom plate as this is a fairly
snug fit. You may have to use a bolt, nut, and washer to pull the slug into place.
You can put them in either the standard or offset position (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6
Now we will attach the t-plate to the bottom plate. You will need to use three 4-
40x3/8 BHCS and three 4-40 aluminum locknuts. Screw the BHCS into the front
holes of the bottom plate. All of the screws in the pod will fit tight to insure
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proper alignment .Next place the .100 aluminum
spacer onto the center screw. Place the t-plate over
these screws and fasten it with the locknuts. Attach
the left and right bulkheads to the bottom plate with
four 4-40x1/4 BHCS. Before we attach the top plate
we need to place three ball studs in it. You will need
to place them in the correct position for standard or
offset position. Use three locknuts to fasten them.
We also need to place a 4-40x1/2 Stud in the back
hole of each bulkhead. Just screw them in by hand until they stop. Now place
the top plate over the two studs and place two 4-40x1/4 BHCS in the front holes.
Screw the wing mounts onto the studs in the top of the bulkheads. Try to
tighten them so that one of the four holes in them points to the rear of the pod.
Place two 4-40x1/4 SHCS in these holes for fastening the wing (Fig. 7).
Fig. 7
Let’s assemble the battery tray next. (Bag E) Fasten
tray mount to tray using three 4-40x3/8FHCS, 4-40
washers, and lock-nuts. Notice that tray mount will
work in either direction, the only difference being that
with pointed end of mount to the rear, the farther
back the tray will slide. Also note that slots in mount
are on top of the tray. Next fasten two .800 standoffs
to front of tray with two 4-40x1/4FHCS. Attach
transponder mount to the top of standoffs using two 4-40x1/4BHCS. This
completes battery tray and mount (Fig. 8).
Fig. 8
We are now ready to mount everything to the chassis
plate. Fasten battery tray assembly to the chassis
using three 4-40x3/8FHCS and lock-nuts. Next,
position front t-plate pivot ball over the front t-plate
hole in chassis and fasten with 4-40x1/2FHCS and
lock-nut. The rear t-plate pivot ball is fastened with a
4-40x3/8FHCS which bolts into the center hole of the
aluminum cross mount. Finish mounting aluminum Fig. 9
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cross mount with two 4-40x1/4FHCS, making sure that body posts are toward
the rear of the car. The nerf wing is fastened with two 4-40x3/8FHCS and
locknuts (Fig. 9).
Your XCS comes with Associated VCS side and center
shocks. Build the side shocks according to the
instructions supplied by Associated and the center
shock with the instruction found on page 10 of the
manual.After the shocks are built, thread one ball cup
on each end of the side shocks. Measure the overall
length of the shocks and try to make both of them the
same length by adjusting the ball cups. Snap the
shocks onto the ball studs with the threaded shock nut end toward the outside
of the car. Thread the long ball cup provided onto the center shock shaft. Next
fasten the antenna tube to the center shock mount using a 4-40x1/8 set screw.
Attach the center shock mount to the chassis using two 4-40x1/4FHCS. You may
choose any of the mounting positions, but you will have to adjust the center
shock length by using different length ball cups. Next snap center shock ball cup
onto ball stud on the top plate. Insert fuel tubing , (supplied with center shock
mount) into the shock cap and fasten this end of shock to the shock mount using
4-40x1/2 SHCS. Be careful and don’t over-tighten the cap-screw. You will need
to adjust the rear pod droop by lengthening or shortening the ball cup on the
center shock (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10
(Bag D) Install the #2 ride height adjusters into each
of the rear bulkheads. Then place a 1/4x3/8 flanged
bearing into each of the ride heights. (Bag F) Take the
1/16 pinning material and pin both the diff hub and the
axle flange. Install the 12 diff balls into the outer ring
of holes in the spur gear. Also apply a small amount
of diff lube to each of the balls. Place a 1/4x3/8 un-
flanged bearing into the center of the spur gear. Take
the 1/4x3/8 flanged bearing and place in the diff side of the diff hub.
Fig. 11
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The 1/4x3/8 un-flanged bearing goes on the outside of the diff hub. Now place
one of the notched diff rings onto the axle making sure that the pin aligns in the
notch. Now slide spur gear onto axle. Next slide diff hub with diff ring onto axle
and down against spur gear making sure that both pins stay aligned in the diff
rings. Slide diff cone over outer end of axle with the small end toward the
bearing. Secure with the 8-32 nylon lock-nut and tighten the nut so that there is
a small amount of drag on spur gear. You can adjust the tightness of the nut to
suit different track conditions (Fig. 11).
We are now ready to place the axle assembly into the
rear pod. (Bag F) Place the .025 axle shim onto the
axle and slide axle assembly through the rear axle
bearings in the rear pod. Make sure the axle slides
through freely. Now slide the left side blue axle
spacer and left side clamping hub onto the axle and
adjust end play to a very slight amount. Tighten the
clamping hub to complete the installation. Make sure
that the axle spins freely. If axle does not spin freely, recheck the end play
(Fig. 12).
Fig. 12
The only thing left to install is the electronics, motor, batteries, and tires. You
are now ready to go racing. Good luck and we hope to see you in the winner’s
circle (Fig. 13).
Fig. 13
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BAG CONTENTS
Bag A
L&R caster block
Twelve diff balls
Four 2-56x3/8 SHCS
Two .078 hinge pins
Four .100 front end spacers
Two titanium turnbuckles
Two servo mounts
Bag B
Two 2 ½ body posts
Two 3 ½ body posts
Four body post collars
Four 4-40x1/8 set screws
Four body clips
Bag C
Rear aluminum cross mount
Side shock & body mt assembly
Bag D
Two pivot balls
Two pivot ball sockets
One bottom plate
One top plate
L&R bulkheads
Two 0 degree slugs
One .100 spacer
Two wing mounts
Ride heights
Bag E
Battery tray
Battery tray mount
Transponder mount
Two .800 standoffs
Bag F
Right side hub
Left clamp hub
Graphite axle
Two diff rings
One 1/16 pin
One .250 spacer
One diff cone
One 8-32 locknut
One .025 axle shim
120 tooth spur
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STEP 1
STEP 2 STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5