Leader Evaporator Inferno User manual

Leader Evaporator Co., Inc.
49 Jonergin Drive
Swanton, Vermont 05488
[phone]
www.leaderevaporator.com
Inferno Wood Fired Arch

Directions for an Inferno Wood Fired Arch
Preparing the Sugarhouse
There are some major decisions that go into planning and preparing a
sugarhouse for a quick and smooth set up. Two of these decisions are:
How much space do I need? What kind of foundation do I need?
Space in the sugarhouse is an issue that people always think back and wish
they had done different, however there are some minimal guidelines we
recommend. Leave six feet in front of the arch for ample room to fire the
evaporator and clean out the ashes. Three feet at the back of the arch will
allow room to clean out the back and put up or take down the stack.
Having four feet on each side will be sure to leave room for drawing off
syrup and movement to do other chores within the sugarhouse. Just
remember these are minimum recommended distances. Be sure to have
plenty of space, it is better to have a little extra space than not have
enough. Planning for possible expansions in the future, will save time and
aggravation later.
Foundations will also vary from sugarhouse to sugarhouse. There are two
basic guidelines to follow for a foundation:
1. Have enough support that reaches deeper than the frost line.
2. Make all footers at least 12 inches wide planning the arch to sit in the
center so it can be slid a few inches in any direction.
Be sure to use standard concrete for a sturdy and durable foundation.
When done right the foundation is only done once.
Setting up the Arch
The first thing to do now that everything has been delivered or brought
home is to check your parts list and be sure everything is accounted for. M
Now that everything is there you are ready to set the arch on the
foundation:
1. Set the arch on the foundation, placing the leveling bolts in the
center of the footers.
2. Level the arch by adjusting the bolts previously mentioned. Be sure
that the arch is absolutely level, which will save time latter in the set
up process.
Bricking the Arch
Now that the arch is set on the foundation you are ready to brick the arch.
Before any cement is applied be sure to have the right number of bricks
and the correct amount of refractory cement, according to the guidelines
below:
1 –30 lbs pail of 3000 degree refractory cement for every 65 bricks,
Use only 3000 degree fire brick

Table A-1
Now lay the bricks in the arch without any cement in order to see what
bricks need to be cut and assure the correct alignment. It is recommended
that you rent a masonry saw from your local equipment rental facility in
order to cut any bricks necessary. Another recommended item which will
make bricking the arch much easier is the use of mono-block. Using the 1
½ inch mono-block under the bricks on the outside of the wall from the top
of the incline back will make the bricking process much easier. With the
mono-block under a 9 inch brick there should be a snug fit on the side wall
under the rail.
Two things to remember while laying the bricks are to break the joints of
the bricks as shown in figure A-1. Secondly, leave a minimum of ¼ inch
gap on each end of the grates for expansion and removal. It may help to
place the grates in the arch while you are establishing a brick pattern.
Remember different size arches take different number and size grates as
shown in table A-2.
Table A-2
Width of Arch
Inches
Size of Grates
Inches
Number of
Grates
30
24
3
36
24
3
40
30
4
48
30
5
60
30
7
72
30
8
***Exception –3 x 12 arches takes 30 inch grates.
Evaporator
Size
No. of
Bricks
Pails of
Cement
Evaporator
Size
No. of
Bricks
Pails of
Cement
30 X 8
135
2
4 X 12
285
5
3 X 8
180
3
4 X 14
310
5
3 X 10
205
4
5 X 12
330
5
3 X 12
250
4
5 X 14
350
6
40 X 10
220
4
5 X 16
410
7
40 X 12
265
5
6 X 14
465
8
40 X 14
290
5
6 X 16
535
9
4 X 10
235
4

Figure A-1
For Raised Flue Arches
The baffles prompt some interesting methods of insulating; however we
require that you brick the front of the first baffle. In between the two
baffles is where there may be some options. It is recommended that you
fill the space with a light weight, pourable, insulating material to within 2
inches of the top. For the top two inches simply mix dry cement with the
insulating material you have chosen and finish filling. When you have
finished filling in between the baffles lightly dampen the top of the fill so
that the cement will harden. This will ensure that the insulation cannot
blow out the stack.
For Combo Raised and Dropped MAX Flue Pans
For the combo raised and dropped MAX flue pans a few extra bricks must
be added to create baffles for the heat. By suing a full fire brick on top of
the full bricks already in the bottom of a drop flue arch we can create a
baffle the proper height. Looking at the table below locate the length flue
pan you will be installing an install the bricked baffles in the correct
locations. All measurements will be taken from the front of the baffles in
the correct locations. All measurements will be taken from the front of the
stack collar where it is resting on the rail of the arch to the front of the
brick baffle.
Flue Pan Length
Feet
Number of Baffles
Placement of Baffles
Inches
3’
1
20”
4’
2
20” & 30”
5’
2
20” & 42”
6’
2
20” & 54”
7’
2
20” & 66”
8’
3
20”, 50” & 78”
9’
3
20”, 56” & 90”
10’
3
20”, 62” & 102”

Optionally you can fill between the baffles if you choose, however it is not
required. If you fill between the baffles, the center baffle is not required.
It is highly recommended to insulate any portions of the cast iron front
possible, especially the sides of the door opening. Cut bricks as needed,
and form them to fit as good as possible. On 2 X 4, 2 X 6, and 2 X 8
arches after all bricking has been completed, dry fit full bricks against the
cast iron front along the bottom of the door opening. These bricks will rest
on the cast iron front along the bottom of the door opening. These bricks
will rest on the grates and therefore will need to be removed in order to
take the grates out. DO NOT CEMENT them in place.
Remember that you have to leave a slot and hole for the drain pipe on the
flue pan. Now that you have a pattern established keep it in mind, pull the
bricks out and begin placing them back in order using the refractory
cement to bond the bricks together. Be sure to put the refractory cement
on the sheet metal walls of the arch, this assures that the wall is anchored
and can’t collapse.
The arch is now fully bricked and should still be level; however check it
again to make absolutely certain it remained level. Once you have checked
the level of the arch go ahead and place the grates in the arch. Double
check all the doors and their hinges to be sure they are secure and ready to
go.

Putting up the stack
The first thing to do is make sure you have the right amount of stack and
that it is the right size according to table A-3.
Table A-3
Arch Size
Taper Height
Feet
Stack Diameter
Inches
Total Round Stack
Feet
30 X 8
3
10
12
3 X 8
6
12
9
3 X 10
6
12
15
3 X 12
6
14
18
40 X 10
6
14
15
40 X 12
6
14
18
4 X 12
6
18
18
4 X 14
6
18
21
5 X 12
6
22
18
5 X 14
6
22
21
5 X 16
6
24
21
6 X 16
6
24
21
6 X 16
6
24
27
It is also highly recommended that you
have a Leader style roof jack fitted for
the pitch of your roof. Pitch is the rise
in the roof over the run showed in a
ratio, better explained if you measure in
one foot along the plate from where it
meets the rafter, and it’s six inches from
that point to the rafter you have a 6/12
pitch. The other distinguishing feature
of a roof jack is whether it is a side pitch
or a peak pitch. This is simple to
decide, if the stack goes through the
peak of the roof it is a peak pitch, if the
stack goes through the side on the roof
it is a side pitch.
Once you have a roof jack you have to prepare to install it. Take a string
with some kind of weight tied on one end of it, and a drill up into the
rafters of the sugarhouse to approximate where the roof jack will have to
be. Use the sting to find the correct place for the roof jack by lowering the
weighted end of the string down to the level of the arch collar at the back
6”
12”

of the arch. Have someone else eyeballing the weight, when it reaches
dead center of the collar as the person up near the roof moves the string
along the roof use the drill to put a guide hole through the roof.
Now from the outside find the hole and measure from the guide hole to find
exactly where to make the cuts for the roof jack. Measure the opening in
the bottom of the roof jack and add 2 inches all the way around for the
hole in the roof. Once you have marked and made the cuts, place the roof
jack over the center of the hole and secure it down in the most watertight
manner possible.
Now that the roof jack is secure start building up to it. Start by setting the
taper on its collar at the back end of the arch. In some installations it may
be necessary to use a spark arrester between the collar and the taper (¼ x
¼ inch stainless steel mesh is sufficient). Now take a quick measurement
of how much stack is needed to get into the bottom of the roof jack. It
may be necessary to cut one length of stack down to get a proper fit. The
stack should have a snug fit from the collar to the roof jack. Once the
inside is taken care of, the remaining stack must be put outside from the
roof jack up.
It is highly recommended that you install stack covers for all stacks (smoke
and steam). The process is simple; the stack cover is secured to the top
length of stack by three stainless steel bolts, one on each side and one on
the back. Nylon rope or cable needs to be hooked to the swing arm for
opening and closing the stack cover. Now put the length of stack with the
cover already installed in place. Send your rope or cable down to the most
convenient point for opening and closing and try it to be sure it works
correctly.
Setting up the Forced Draft System
Thanks to some innovation to the Inferno wood fired arches the only thing
to do with the forced draft system is to wire it up. A couple things to keep
in mind: install both a speed control and an on/off switch for each fan, use
only copper or copper clad wire, and turn off the power to the circuit
that you are working on. If you have any questions contact your local
electrician for help.
Start by removing ¾ inch of the exterior insulation from the end of each
wire conductor; make sure the copper conductor is straight. Attach one
wire lead on the fan speed control to the end of either conductor end, and
the remaining wire lead to the remaining conductor as follows: twist wire
strands tightly together and screw on a wire connector –so that all bare

copper is completely covered. Make sure every connection is secured with
electrical tape.
Mount the control in the wall box with the 2 long metal screws provided.
Restore power to the circuit breaker or fuse, and adjust the low-end fan
speed as follows:
1. Turn the switch on clockwise. Do not rotate the knob any further
than the first click;
2. Insert a small screwdriver into the trim slot (see the wiring diagram
below) and set low speed as desired;
3. After the initial adjustment, interrupt power by turning the switch off
at the extreme counter-clockwise position. After the fan has stopped
rotating, restore power by rotating the switch clockwise to on. Do
not rotate the knob any further that the first click. The fan should
rotate at its slowest speed with the switch in this position. If the fan
is not rotating, readjust by slightly increasing the low-end fan speed
as described in step 2 above.
4. After a suitable low-end speed has been set, turn the rotary knob
counter clockwise until it clicks off.
Snap the plastic cover into place over the control and the installation of the
speed control is now complete. For a visual representation of the diagram,
see below:
Firing the Arch
With a wood fired evaporator keep in mind the amount of room you have in
the firebox when you cut your wood. A good rule is to cut your wood
roughly the same length as your grates. When you fire the arch there are
a couple of things to keep in mind: fire the arch often and in small batches
to keep a steady heat source, cross the wood to allow for good air flow.
Keep the fire box approximately ¾ full, and mix between hardwood and
soft wood for a consistent heat. Be sure to keep the wood back all the way
onto the grates. If the doors are turning red push your wood in a bit
further. Be very careful when firing to make sure that the ceramic blanket
that protects the box tubing stays intact. If something should happen to
the ceramic blanket be sure to replace it before the start of another boiling
day.
When firing a one blower arch use the speed control to turn the fan down
so that no sparks or ashes come out the doors while you are firing.
However, do not turn the blower completely off. On a two blower arch
simply use the on/off switch to turn one of the blowers off. This should cut
the air enough so that you can fire effectively, however if sparks and ashes

are coming out the doors simply turn down the second blower using the
speed control. When you have finished firing turn all of the blowers back to
their appropriate levels. What is the appropriate level? Well it varies from
arch to arch. The easiest way to set your speed controls is to use the stack
temperature. The appropriate range to be within is 750-900 degrees F.,
but the ideal range is 825-900 degrees F. (Check the stack temperature 2
minutes after firing).
Maintenance
Make sure you clean the ashes in the back of the arch regularly. A build up
of ashes at the back of the arch will cause a lack of draft and a drop in
efficiency. It may be necessary to clean the grates off several times
throughout the season as well. If there is a build up on the grates it will
not allow air to get through and fuel the fire.