Masport Olympic Reel Mowers 660 User manual

CYLINDER MOWER
SERVICING MANUAL
WWW.MASPORT.COM
032157.A.0
032157.A.0

3
Contents
CONTROLS 4
Engine Controls 4
Throttle Control Adjustment 4
Throttle Control Replacement 4
OPC Control Adjustment 4
Propulsion Controls 4
Drive Clutch 4
Drive Clutch Cable Adjustment 4
MOWER ADJUSTMENTS 5
Chains 5
Front roller(s) 5
Curing uneven cutting (weatherboarding) 5
Cutting reel 5
Grass deflector 6
DISMANTLING THE MOWER 6
Engine clutch 6
Engine Clutch Spring Replacement 6
Engine Clutch assembly 7
Clutch Drum Assembly removal 7
Roller clutch 7
Rear roller 8
Cutting unit 8
Dismantling the cutting unit 9
Cutting unit spring re-assembly 9
Sharpening hints 9
Front roller(s) 9
SLOW DOWN KIT 10
February 2014

4
NOTE:- All positional descriptions such as left, right, front, rear,
above and below refer to those places as seen by the operator
when standing behind the handle of the mower in its normal
grass-cutting orientation. Please note that these instructions
are to be read in conjunction with the Owner’s Manual for the
mower and the Engine Manufacturer’s Operator’s Manual for
the engine.
ALWAYS USE GENUINE MASPORT SPARE PARTS
Controls
ENGINE CONTROLS
All engines have a throttle control to allow the engine speed to be
varied as desired. This control does not operate the choke or stop
switch on the engine. See the engine manual for information on using
the choke and stop controls. Moving the throttle to the slow position
will disengage the centrifugal engine clutch and stop rotation of the
cutting cylinder. Some mowers are fitted with an Operator Presence
Control (OPC) that allows the engine to run only while the OPC bail (a
bar or hand-grips in front of the handle crossbar) is held against the
handle. If the operator releases the bail, the engine stops immediately.
Throttle Control Adjustment
A B
With the engine running, move the throttle lever through its full travel
range. In the slow position, the engine should run at idling speed and
the cutting cylinder should be stationary. At the fast end of the range
the engine should be running at a speed that will require a brisk walk
to keep up with the mower. If one end or the other of the lever travel
does not produce the required result, simply release the clamp that
holds the cable outer sleeve (on the engine), move the sleeve a few
millimetres under the clamp and re-tighten it. Test again and adjust as
necessary.
CAUTION. Do not run the engine for more than a few seconds
with the cylinder rotating if the mower is not cutting grass.
Grass lubricates the cutting edges, preventing overheating and
premature wear.
Throttle Control Replacement
If the control is a type A shown above, simply detach the control box
from the handle, note where the cable ties are fitted and cut them.
After releasing the cable clamp screw on the engine, the new cable
can be fitted and held in place with new cable ties. Clamp the control
box onto the handle, refit the clamp screw and adjust the cable
position as detailed above.
To gain access to the control box for type B throttle controls, remove
the four screws under the throttle mount that hold the two halves of
the mount onto the handle. The top throttle mount can then be lifted
clear of the handle. Remove the M6x60 screw that fixes the control
box to the top mount, note the cable tie positions and cut the cable
ties. After the clamp screw on the engine has been removed, the
throttle wire can be disengaged from the carburettor lever. The old
control box can then be withdrawn from the top mount. Reverse this
procedure to fit the new throttle control. Take care not to over-tighten
the M6x60 screw that holds the control box to the top mount as this
would make movement of the throttle lever very stiff. After fitting the
cable wire into the carburettor lever, re-assemble the two halves of the
throttle mount onto the handle, fit new cable ties, replace the clamp
screw and adjust the throttle cable sleeve position under the clamp as
described above to give correct operation of the engine.
OPC Control Adjustment
There are no adjustments provided on this control as it is a safety
feature required in the Northern Hemisphere that might then be over-
ridden. When the OPC bail (see the illustrations above) is held against
the handle, the engine ignition can function and the mower can be
started. When the bail is released, the primary winding of the ignition
coil is shorted out, thus quenching the ignition spark and stopping the
engine. If the OPC bail has been damaged and twisted out of shape,
the bail may contact the handle before the ignition has been ‘switched
on’. This is rare, but straightening of the bail can provide a little extra
control wire travel to correct the fault.
PROPULSION CONTROLS
Drive Clutch
The mower drive system is engaged by using the SP (Self Propulsion)
bail. See the illustrations on the left. Of course, the drive clutch will not
drive the roller unless the engine clutch is engaged and the cutting
reel is rotating. The drive clutch is mounted inside the chaincase
cover. Both clutches are designed to be fully engaged or fully
released. Any attempt to reduced travel speed by only partially
engaging the clutches will lead to overheating of the clutch
linings, causing serious damage. It is important that the SP bail
cable is adjusted to the correct length to provide the necessary clutch
engagement pressure.
Drive Clutch Cable Adjustment
Step 1. Confirm that the cable inner wire will move at least 26 mm
when the SP bail (see to the left) is moved from the clutch disengaged
(open) position to the engaged (closed) position against the handle.
Adjust the contour of the bail slightly if necessary to achieve this wire
stroke.
Step 2. Pull the mower backward toward you while gradually closing
the SP bail, and note the position of the bail when extra resistance to
backward movement indicates that the drive clutch is just engaging.
This extra resistance should occur when the SP bail is about half way
between open and closed.
Step 3. If the engagement point is incorrect, adjust it by rotating the
thumb-wheel on the anchor block at the top of the drive clutch cable
sleeve. Rotating the wheel clockwise will move the clutch engagement
point nearer to the bail closed position, and anti-clockwise will move it
toward the bail open position.
Step 4. Verify that the adjustment is correct by field testing the mower.
It should be possible to close the bail against the handle without the
need for excessive pressure, and there must be no sign of drive clutch
slippage.
Step 5. Repeat this adjustment after 150 hours use of the mower or
at any time if the mower drive seems to be slipping.
NOTE, If the available adjustment on the thumb-wheel is insufficient to
achieve correct operation, another adjustment point is available on the
drive clutch itself. The draw bolt through the centre of the clutch can
be tightened to compensate for clutch lining wear

5
Access to the head of the bolt is gained by removing the chaincase
cover from the left side of the mower.
To reach the nut of the clutch draw bolt, remove the transmission
cover over the engine clutch and drive shaft. It may be necessary to
remove the small angle bracket that provides the thread for one of the
chaincase cover screws in order to lift the transmission cover clear.
The draw bolt nut is directly under the aperture in the engine platform.
Wind the thumb-wheel on the anchor block (at the top of the handle)
clockwise about 12 full turns. Tighten the draw bolt until the clutch
engages when the clutch lever is parallel to the mower side-plate. Test
this by pushing the clutch lever by hand toward the side-plate. Check
and adjust the clutch operation as described above, making further
adjustments to the thumb-wheel and draw bolt if necessary. The two
nuts on the lower end of the clutch cable sleeve are not intended for
adjustment of the cable length. Replace the covers.
IMPORTANT: An incorrectly adjusted clutch cable, or using the
mower with the SP bail not fully against the handle will cause
clutch slippage, overheating and serious damage.
Mower Adjustments
CHAINS
There are three chains, but only the primary one requires adjustment
as the secondary chain between the cutting cylinder and the drive
clutch has an automatic tensioner. The final chain between the drive
clutch and the rear roller is not adjustable. Altering the position of the
primary chain adjuster should not be necessary unless the cutting
cylinder has moved up or down a significant distance.
The plastic shoe should not be hard against the chain. Rotate the
cutting cylinder several times in case there is a tight position of the
chain. In the position where the chain is tightest, it should still be
possible to move the chain with light hand pressure in and out a total
of at least 5 millimetres at the mid point of the straight run between
sprockets.
FRONT ROLLER(S)
To vary the grass cutting height, the front roller(s) are raised and
lowered by turning a hand-wheel.
Curing uneven cutting (weatherboarding)
There is an initial adjustment which sets the front roller parallel to the
rear roller so that the mower will not produce a ‘weatherboard’ cut.
If it is suspected that the front and rear rollers are not parallel, set the
mower to a low cutting height and place it on a perfectly flat surface
such as an accurately flat concrete slab.
Slacken off the clamp screw on the right hand support bracket and
move that end of the roller up or down until the mower is sitting firmly
on the slab without rocking. A feeler gauge between the front roller
and the flat surface at each end of the roller may help to establish
when the roller is truly parallel to the surface.
Tighten the clamp screw and rotate the mower on the slab through
180 degrees. The mower should still not rock. If it can be rocked, the
slab was not flat enough and a better test site should be found.
After setting the front and rear rollers parallel to each other as
described above, use a feeler gauge between the baseplate blade
and the test surface at each end of the blade. The maximum variation
allowed is 0.5 mm for Golf mowers and 1.0 mm for all others. If the
difference is outside the allowable tolerance, the probable cause is
uneven wear of the cutting cylinder resulting in the cutting cylinder
being a smaller diameter at one end than the other. The cure for this is
a careful re-sharpening of the cutting cylinder and baseplate blade.
Note: Do not confuse weatherboarding with the different appearances
of the freshly cut grass when the mower travels toward or away from
the viewer. This ‘light and dark’ effect is perfectly normal, and is, in
fact, frequently used deliberately on sports fields to good effect.
Cutting reel
The positioning of the reel in relation to the baseplate blade is very
important for clean cutting and long reel life. Too large a gap, and
the grass will not be cut cleanly, and too small, or no gap at all will
cause the reel to rub on the bottom blade, causing overheating and
excessive wear of the blade and reel.
Step 1. Remove the chaincase cover and the transmission cover over
the engine clutch and driveshaft. It may be necessary to remove the
small angle bracket that provides the thread for one of the chaincase
cover screws in order to lift the transmission cover clear.
Step 2. Check that the primary chain is not under tension due to the
adjuster being hard against the chain. If it is, slacken the clamp bolt
and move the adjuster out to relieve the tension.

6
Step 3. Tip the mower backwards on its rear roller until the handle
touches the ground. Place a weight on the handle to ensure the
mower will stay safely in this position.
Step 4. Rotate the reel by turning the engine clutch drum by hand in
the direction it runs when cutting. (Forward at the top of the drum).
Turning the reel by gripping the reel itself can result in serious
hand injury.
Step 5. Confirm that the reel is not touching the baseplate blade. If it
is, you will hear a scraping sound. Careful listening as the ends of the
reel spiral blades come to, or pass off, the baseplate blade will reveal
where the reel is rubbing on the blade. If it is touching, carry out Step 6.
Step 6. Back off the adjusting screws (turning anti-clockwise) at one
or both sides of the reel as appropriate until the reel no longer touches
the blade. Move the adjusters only a fraction of a turn each time an
adjustment is made.
Step 7. Prepare several 20 mm wide strips of 80 gsm copy paper.
Step 8. Holding a paper strip against the front edge of the baseplate
blade at an angle that would be vertical if the mower were not tilted
back, carefully rotate the cutting reel by turning the clutch drum.
Tighten the adjusting screws carefully as required. When correctly
adjusted, the paper will be cut cleanly and the reel will still not quite
touch the baseplate blade. Repeat the test at various points along
the length of the reel. A clean cut should be possible for at least 80 %
of the blade length, with the remaining length (up to 20%) able to cut
a double layer of paper strip. When correctly adjusted, there will be
a 0.05mm gap (2 thousandths of an inch) between the reel and the
baseplate blade.
Step 9. If a clean cut cannot be obtained, due to the reel blades and
baseplate blade having rounded cutting edges, the reel and baseplate
blade will need sharpening. This requires removal of the cutting unit
from the mower and specialised grinding equipment.
GRASS DEFLECTOR
This is the curved steel panel directly above the cutting reel. Its
purpose is to direct the flow of air and grass clippings from the reel
into the grass catcher. The closer the deflector is to the reel, the
further forward the grass clippings will be ejected.
The distribution of clippings into the grass catcher can be varied by
raising or lowering the front of the deflector. Slacken the two clamp
screws to move the deflector and re-tighten them when the desired
results have been achieved
Dismantling the Mower
ENGINE CLUTCH
There are no adjustable parts in the clutch, and dismantling is rarely
required. If a bearing requires replacement or the clutch linings are
worn out, access is gained by removing the engine from the mower.
Remove the transmission cover and the four mounting bolts in the
base of the engine. This will allow the engine to be moved to the
right, taking with it the clutch hub and clutch shoes.
Engine Clutch Spring Replacement
Sometimes it may be necessary to replace the three springs in the
engine clutch because the clutch does not disengage when the
engine is idling. Check first that the idling speed is not excessive.
Check also that the alignment of the engine on the mower deck is
correct. To do this, slacken the engine mounting bolts and, using
the clearance between the bolts and engine base, move the engine
around a little. If this does not cure the problem, open up the engine
clutch as explained above and fit a new set of springs.

7
When removing the old springs, lever the spring end closest to the
shoe pivot post out of its slot first. When fitting the new springs, use
‘Vicegrip’ pliers to hook the spring over the edge of the hole nearest
the pivot post and then gently tap the spring end down into position.
Do not spread the spring coils or over-stretch the new springs when
fitting them as this will allow the clutch to engage at a lower speed
than intended. When fitting new shoes, confirm that the outside
diameter over the new linings is not over 107 mm. If necessary, trim
the three pads equally to come within this size.
Engine Clutch assembly
When assembled, the clutch plate assembly should be 3 to 4 mm
inside the mouth of the clutch drum, and this distance should be
constant all round the drum when the engine is finally bolted in
position.
Clutch Drum Assembly removal
First remove the primary chain. It will be necessary to remove the
engine from the mower as described above, but the top sprocket
should be removed from the driveshaft before removing the engine
as this supports the shaft while the sprocket is being removed.
Early model mowers have the sprocket mounted on a RIGHT HAND
THREAD, so it can be unscrewed for removal and release of the
clutch drum shaft ballrace if required. To get a grip on the sprocket,
wrap an old chain around it and use a pipe wrench on the outside of
the chain. Later models have a retaining bolt in the end of the shaft
and the sprocket is driven by a key. Remove the bolt and use a wheel
puller to draw off the sprocket. When using a wheel puller, always
screw the retaining bolt at least six turns into its original hole and
place the wheel puller against the bolt. Using the puller against the
threaded hole will damage the thread.
ROLLER CLUTCH
Step 1. Remove the transmission cover, and the chaincase cover. It
may be necessary to remove the small angle bracket that provides
the thread for one of the chaincase cover screws in order to lift the
transmission cover clear.
Step 2. Remove the secondary chain (the one between the cutting
reel and the drive clutch) by extracting the chain connector link.
Step 3. Remove the clutch draw bolt. The head of the bolt is in the
centre of the drive clutch, while its nut is accessible through the cut-
out of the mower deck. Take great care, when removing the nut, not
to drop it down inside the mower. Also be very careful not to drop the
bronze thrust washer fitted between the draw bolt nut and the clutch
lever. Note that when re-assembling the draw bolt the rounded side of
the bronze thrust washer should be against the clutch lever.
Step 4. The large drive clutch sprocket can now be pulled off to reveal
the driven plate with its friction facing. Be careful to keep all oil and
grease from reaching the friction face.
Step 5. Remove the connecting link on the roller chain. First slide off
the link retaining clip, then rotate the rear roller a little until the chain
connector is behind the clutch plate. The clutch plate can then be
drawn outwards a little to give room behind the chain to extract the
rest of the connecting link. With the chain removed, it is now possible
to draw the clutch plate and sprocket assembly completely off the
clutch post.
Step 6. There is rarely any need to dismantle the drive clutch any
further, but if you wish to remove the clutch post and clutch lever
assembly, remember the clutch post has a LEFT HAND THREAD.
Using a suitable ‘C’ spanner or bar in the hole through the post, it can
be unscrewed from the clutch lever assembly.
Step 7. Remove the small screw adjacent to the lower end of the
clutch cable wire. The wire can then be moved sideways in the slot
and withdrawn from its anchor position in the mower side-plate
Step 8. Remove the clutch lever assembly from the mower.
When re-assembling the clutch draw bolt, be sure to put the rounded
face of the thrust washer against the clutch lever. (See the illustration
at Step 3).

8
REAR ROLLER
Dismantling procedure
Step 1. To get access, it is necessary to carry out Steps 1 to 5 above
for dismantling the drive clutch.
Step 6. Remove the rear roller sprocket. This is mounted on the
roller shaft by a LEFT HAND THREAD. Using a lever engaging in the
two holes in the sprocket, turn the sprocket clockwise to remove
it. Usually a light hammer blow on the lever will start the sprocket
moving.
If the roller needs restraining while doing this, there are two flats on
the roller shaft at the right hand end (just inside the bearing) to which a
narrow spanner can be fitted.
Step 7. Remove the four bolts (two each side) that are holding the
bearing housings to the mower sideplates.
Step 8. It should now be possible to lower the rear roller and extract it
from between the mower sideplates. It can help to gently tap the right
bearing housing in toward the roller to gain more room to manoeuvre
the roller as it is extracted.
Note the position of the cover plate on the left end (the threaded
end) of the roller shaft so that it will be re-fitted correctly later. It sits
between the left bearing housing and the sideplate.
Step 9. If you wish to dismantle the roller assembly, carefully draw
the ballraces from each end of the shaft using a bearing puller that
engages behind the bearing housings.
Step 10. Remove the circlip and washer from each end of the shaft.
The roller halves can then be withdrawn from the shaft to give access
to the differential gears for servicing or lubrication.
Before pulling them from the shaft, mark the half roller which is
adjacent to the threaded end of the shaft so that will be in its correct
position on re-assembly.
NOTES .
1. If the 24 teeth bevel driving gear fastening rivets have sheared,
replace them only with stainless steel pop rivets.
2. If the tension pin fixing the bevel pinion carrier to the roller spindle
has failed, replace it by a high tensile M6x55 bolt, secured by an
M6 nyloc nut.
3. When re-assembling the rollers, always put a generous coating of
grease on the bevel gears and on the rubber lip of the dirt seal.
4. When re-fitting ballraces, press or drive them on ONLY BY THE
CENTRE RING. Hammering the outer ring will indent the bearing
groove and ruin the race. If the old bearings have suffered such
damage during dismantling, replace them by new ones.
CUTTING UNIT
Removing this unit is necessary only when grinding the reel or the
baseplate blade, or if a reel bearing replacement is necessary.
Step 1. Remove the chaincase cover.
Step 2. Remove the primary chain tension adjuster, the primary chain
and the secondary chain (the one between the cutting reel and the
roller clutch).
Step 3. Remove the two screws holding the secondary chain tension
adjuster and lift it clear.
Step 4. Remove the two grass deflector adjusting screws. (See Grass
deflector in MOWER ADJUSTMENTS).
Step 5. Remove the sprocket assembly from the reel shaft.
Early models
These have a LEFT HAND THREAD mount for the welded sprocket
assembly. Prevent the reel from turning by inserting a wooden
hammer handle between the reel blades. Wrap an old chain around
the small sprocket and use a pipe wrench on the outside of the chain.

9
Later models. (From Serial No.7353010 – August 2010). These use
a key to lock the bolted together sprocket assembly to the shaft. For
these, extract the retaining bolt in the centre of the shaft, and draw
the sprocket off, using, if necessary, a wheel puller engaging behind
the small sprocket. When using a wheel puller, always screw the
sprocket retaining bolt at least six turns into its original hole and place
the wheel puller against the bolt. Using the puller against the threaded
hole will damage the thread.
Step 6. Extract the four screws holding the cutting unit to the mower
chassis (two each side of the mower). The two left side screws hold
the chaincase seal plate in place on the outside of the sideplate as
shown.
Right hand cutting unit screws.
Step 7. The cutting unit can now be lowered carefully from between
the mower side plates.
Step 8. Unclip the bottom edge of the grass deflector plate from the
top edge of the baseplate.
Dismantling the cutting unit
This should be necessary only for grinding the cutting reel or
baseplate blade, or for replacing the reel bearings.
Step 1. Turn the two adjusting screws anticlockwise by two or three
turns at a time, moving from one to the other alternately so that the
reel does not become severely out of parallel with the baseplate blade
while doing this.
Step 2. Back off the adjusting screws until they are no longer carrying
any load.
Step 3. Carefully lever the springs from their locating buttons. Lever
off the lower ends of the springs as the retaining buttons are shorter
there. (Beware of flying springs).
Step 4. The reel bearing housings can now be pulled from each
end of the cutting reel. As always, if a wheel puller is used, screw a
bolt well into the thread on the end of the shaft and place the puller
against the bolt. If this is not done, the shaft thread will be damaged.
Cutting unit spring re-assembly
The coil springs are quite stiff and a spring compressor tool may
be needed to fit them. Alternatively, it is permitted to grind up to 3
mm from the bearing housings at the point where they contact the
baseplate when the adjusters are fully backed off. This will allow the
spring seats to open further for easier spring assembly
Sharpening hints
When grinding the reel, always support it on the ballraces or the
ballrace seats on the shaft rather than the centres in the ends of the
shaft as the centres are easily damaged resulting in a reel that does
not run true when re-assembled.
When fitting a new baseplate blade, always clean the blade seat and
the blade thoroughly. Tighten the mounting screws sequentially as
when fitting a car wheel before pulling them up very firmly. Then grind
the new bottom blade to ensure that its cutting edge is accurately
straight and parallel with its mounting.
FRONT ROLLER(S)
Some models have a one piece roller, while others have a number of
short rollers mounted across the front of the machine. Instructions for
adjusting the roller are given above (See MOWER ADJUSTMENTS –
Front roller(s)). Removal of the front roller system is rarely required.
Step 1. Unwind the height adjusting knob until it comes right off the
adjusting rod.
Step 2. Remove the mounting bolt at each side of the mower.
Step 3. Lower the whole assembly down until the adjusting rod is
clear of the bracket at the front of the mower deck. Take care not to
lose the two bushes on which the assembly pivots.
Step 4. If further disassembly is required, drive out one of the tension
pins and withdraw the mounting bracket.
NOTE. Occasionally the rollers in the multi roller assembly may not
rotate freely due to an accumulation of maximum length tolerances.
In this case, replace one or more of the 4 mm thick spacing washers
(Part No 501432) by 1 mm thick washers (Part No. 537967).

10
Slow Down Kit
For customers who want to have a lower ground speed
Masport has created a Slow Down Kit, part number 732181
Content of this kit
Part No. Description Quantity
032174 SPROCKET-26T,REEL 1
032186 CHAIN-ONLY 3/16XP 1/2, 42P R/M 1
032187 CHAIN-ONLY 0.23XP 3/8, 77P R/M 1
032188 SPROCKET & BOSS ASSY-
R/ROLLER
1
502207 SCREW,SET M10X 20 SHORT
HEADZP
1
The photo below shows where each part of the kit is to be
used:
Replace with part# -
032187 – CHAIN-ONLY
0.23XP 3/8, 77P R/M
Replace with part#
- 032174 – SPROCK-
ET-26T,REEL
Replace with part# -
032188 – SPROCKET
& BOSS ASSY -
R/ROLLER
Replace with part# -
032186 – CHAIN-ONLY
3/16XP 1/2, 42P R/M
Replace with part# -
502207 - SCREW,-
SET M10X 20
SHORT HEADZP
• Before starting this procedure, the engine switch should
be set to the “OFF” position, the fuel tap turned off and
the lead from the spark plug disconnected to ensure the
engine cannot be started accidently.
Shaft cover
Chain cover
• Remove the Chain cover and the Shaft cover.
• To ensure no parts are lost or misplaced, use the Chain
cover to store loose parts during this procedure.
ROLLER DRIVE - REMOVAL
1. Remove the drive chain shown in the below photo.
Drive chain.
2. Loosen the rear roller clutch draw bolt adjuster nut. This
will allow the clutch assembly to be moved outwards,
allowing better access to the rear roller drive chain and
sprocket. Removal of the bolt is not necessary, 10mm
movement will be sufficient.

Loosen clutch draw
bolt adjuster nut.
Allows the clutch assembly to
be moved outwards 10mm.
3. Remove the M8 x 20 set screw.
4. Remove the rear roller drive chain. This is done by
removing the split link shown in the picture below.
Rear roller drive chain split
link. (Shown here with
spring clip removed)
Left hand thread,
rotate clockwise to
remove.
Remove split link
M8 x 20 Set screw.
5. Remove the roller sprocket from the spindle. This is left-
handed thread; therefore the sprocket will have to be
rotated clockwise to be removed.
REEL DRIVE – REMOVAL
Lock the reel so that it can’t be turned using a piece of
timber, or similar. Undo the M8 set screw and remove the
small sprocket from the sprocket assembly. Loosen the fixed
adjuster so the chain can be removed. See below.
Fixed adjuster.
M8 x 40 set screw
and 10t Sprocket
Do not lose the key.
6. The reel drive sprocket can now be removed.
7. Remove the M10 x 20 Set Screw, shown in the picture
below, and replace with part# 502207 – SCREW,SET
M10X 20. The shorter head is required to clear the drive
chain once the larger sprocket is fitted.
M6 x 12 Cap screw
Sprocket boss
M10 x 20 Set Screw
to be replaced.
8. Remove the M6 x 12 cap screws and remove the sprocket
from the boss, replacing with part# 032174 – SPROCKET-
26T,REEL.

12
REASSEMBLY – REEL DRIVE
1. Refit the reel drive sprocket onto the shaft, check the key
is in the slot on the shaft, and tap lightly into place.
2. Fit part# 032187 – CHAIN-ONLY 0.23XP 3/8, 77P R/M.
Splitting at the split link will ease fitting of the chain. The
split link should be inserted from the inside so that the
spring clip can be easily fitted. Fit the spring clip so the
closed end is “leading” when the mower is running, as
shown below.
Direction of rotation.
Split link spring clip.
3. With the new chain fitted, tension the fixed adjuster
following the procedure outlined in the owner’s manual.
4. Refit the small sprocket, again remembering to fit the key
into the slot and fit the reel drive chain. Tighten the M8 Set
screw securing the small sprocket to the reel.
REASSEMBLY – ROLLER DRIVE
1. Fit part #032188 SPROCKET & BOSS ASSY-R/
ROLLER, to the spindle. Lightly tap anti-clockwise with a
soft faced hammer to tighten. Fit the M8 x 20 Set screw
and washers that were removed in operation 4 and tighten
up.
2. Fit part #032186 – CHAIN-ONLY 3/16XP 1/2, 42P R/M.
The split link should be inserted from the inside so that
the spring clip can be easily fitted. Note the rotation of
the roller, the spring clip should be fitted as shown in the
picture below.
3. Re-tighten the clutch draw bolt adjusting nut, following the
procedure outlined in the owner’s manual.
4. Re-fit the drive chain.
• Before refitting the covers, ensure all parts are in place
and tightened, and that all the chains are installed and
tensioned correctly.
• Re-fit the chain cover and the shaft cover.
•
Direction of rotation.
Split link spring clip.

REASSEMBLY – ROLLER DRIVE
1. Fit part #032188 SPROCKET & BOSS ASSY-R/
ROLLER, to the spindle. Lightly tap anti-clockwise with a
soft faced hammer to tighten. Fit the M8 x 20 Set screw
and washers that were removed in operation 4 and tighten
up.
2. Fit part #032186 – CHAIN-ONLY 3/16XP 1/2, 42P R/M.
The split link should be inserted from the inside so that
the spring clip can be easily fitted. Note the rotation of
the roller, the spring clip should be fitted as shown in the
picture below.
3. Re-tighten the clutch draw bolt adjusting nut, following the
procedure outlined in the owner’s manual.
4. Re-fit the drive chain.
• Before refitting the covers, ensure all parts are in place
and tightened, and that all the chains are installed and
tensioned correctly.
• Re-fit the chain cover and the shaft cover.
•
Direction of rotation.
Split link spring clip.