McKELLAR AERO DESIGN Gee Bee Z Instructions for use

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 1 Ver. 1.3
Gee Bee Z
Construction Manual
M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN
Wingspan: 28”
Wing Area: 128 in²
Weight: 8 5 oz
Power: GWS IPS-A gearbox with Medusa 012-
030-4000 brushless motor (30-40W with 8X6
prop) OR small outrunner

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 2 Ver. 1.3
Table of Contents
Introduction…………………………………….…………..……2
Kit contents…………………………………….……………..….2
Required to co plete……………………….……………...2
General building instructions………………...………3
Building the vertical and horizontal tail………3
Building the wing………………………..………..…………..4
Building the cowl……………………………………….……..5
Building the fuselage…………………….……….……..…7
Building the wheel pants………….…………….……….17
Reco ended equip ent………………………………..20
Final asse bly……………………………………………………21
Prepare for flight……………………………….……………22
First flight……………………………………….……………….22
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this odel kit. We have worked very hard to provide a odel that
is both easy to build and fly. Please read through all the instructions before you begin
building so that errors can be avoided.
Kit Contents
•Four sheets of laser cut 1/16” balsa
•Three sheets of laser cut 1/32” balsa
•One sheet of laser cut 1/8” balsa
•Two sheets of laser cut 1/4” balsa
•One sheet of laser cut 1/8” light plywood
•One sheet of laser cut 1/32” plywood
•Vacuu for ed canopy
•Plans
Required to Complete
•0.032” usic wire
•0.047” usic wire
•Two plastic tubes (Evergreen Plastics 3/32” styrene tubes)
•Two 1/8” dia eter by 1/16” or 1/8” long rare-earth agnets
•Two Dubro Micro E/Z Connectors
•8-32 nylon bolt
•Covering (Nelson LiteFil or equivalent)
•Self-adhesive Velcro (can be found at ost hardware stores)
•Mediu and thin cyanoacralate (CA)
•10 inute epoxy
•Three icro servos weighing 6-8g with 8-10 oz-in torque rating

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 3 Ver. 1.3
•One icro receiver
•Motor: 12 brushless otor (4000Kv) in GWS IPS-A gear box
Or a s all outrunner.
•One speed control with BEC (battery eli ination circuit) suitable for your otor.
General Building Instructions
•It is best to re ove the parts fro the laser cut sheets only as they are needed.
This will reduce any chance of confusion since so e of the s aller parts are not
labelled on the actual part.
•Write the part nu bers on the parts as they are re oved fro the sheets (only
ark the back sides of sheeting parts as ink will show thru the covering.
•Sand down any re ainders of the tabs which held the parts in the sheet.
•Do not force any tabs into the slots. Enlarge the slots if the tabs are a bit tight. A
jewellers file or nail file works well for this.
•Be sure to check the fit of each part and asse bly before applying glue.
•Use ediu CA for all joints unless told otherwise.
Building the Horizontal and Vertical Tail
The fin, rudder, stab and elevators are built up over the
plan. Fit all the parts in position and apply so e ed CA to all
the joints. Once all the glue has cured, you can re ove the
fin fro the building board. Lightly sand both sides so they
are flat with no lu ps. The leading edge and tip should be
rounded over with a sanding block. Mark the hinge locations
and cut the hinge slots with an Exacto blade. Make the holes
for the elevator joiner wire and finally, sand the leading edge
of the rudder and elevators to a 30° angle.

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 4 Ver. 1.3
Building the Wing
Re ove all the wing ribs and spar parts fro the parts sheets. Sand R3 down slightly so it is
the sa e thickness as the 0.047” landing gear wire. Make the R4/R3/R4 la inations and
then fit all the ribs in place on the lower spar (W1). Now carefully press the top spar (W2)
in place over the ribs. Glue WI and W2 together which a bad of CA at the join line. Do not
glue the ribs to the spar yet.
Now, glue together the lower sheeting pieces aking sure that they are flat and fit well.
The spar/rib asse bly is now fit in place aking sure that all the rib tabs fit in the sheeting
slots. Once everything is fitting nicely, apply CA. There is no need to apply glue to the whole
joint. A few dabs will work fine. Re e ber, too uch glue adds weight!
R1A
R2
R
5
R
8
R
7
R
6
R
5
R
4/R
3
/R4
R
9
R10
W2
W1
W7
W9
W17
W12
W3
W13
W15

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 5 Ver. 1.3
Glue the root ribs in place and be sure to glue W18, W11 and R14 in both wings before
applying the top sheeting. Use the aileron torque rod to line up R14 before gluing it.
Now, take the spar joiners (W4&W5) and test fit the in place. When you are happy with
the fit re ove the and glue the top sheeting in place aking sure there is no twist in the
wing.
Sand the leading edge
sheeting flush with
the ribs and glue on
the leading edge
(W15). Next, glue the
wing tip in place along
with the last wing rib
(R11B and R11A). Now
sand the leading edge
round and sand the
trailing edge of W12
and W15 down to
follow the contour of
the wing ribs. Use
so e asking tape on
The wing ribs to
protect the during this stage.
W6
W8
R11B
W10
W15
W1
8
W11

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 6 Ver. 1.3
The ailerons are pretty si ple, just fit all the parts in place and apply so e CA to the
joints. Sand the top side of W16 so that is follows the profile of the aileron ribs. Again, use
asking tape on the ribs to protect the . The final step for the ailerons is to sand the
leading edge into a V shape centered on the hinge line. This bevel only needs to be about 25°
on either side of the hinge line. This bevel will allow the ailerons to pivot about the hinge
line.
Sand the leading edge of the wing panels to the final shape and then test the fit of the
wing joiners (W4 and W5) in both wing panels. Glue the joiners in one panel and let cure.
Finally, glue the two wing halves together at the root rib and wing joiners.
Building the Cowl
Start the cowl by building the two rings ade up fro C4A and C4B parts. These two rings
are identical.
W1
6
R9B
R8B
R8C/R8D/R8C
W5
W4
W4
R
7
B
R
6
B

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 7 Ver. 1.3
Now, pin one cowl ring to your building board and fit the cowl rings together with the parts
C1, C1, C2 and C3. Use a square to ake sure the ring edges line up and apply glue to the
joints. Now, fit in place the 1/8” square stock that has been cut on the 1/8” balsa sheet.
Make sure these sticks are the correct length before gluing in place.
The cowl sheeting is installed next. Note that this sheeting will overhang C4A/C4B ring a
little. The cowl can be re oved fro the building board after the sheeting is applied.
Now, flip the cowl over, cut off the building tabs on C1, C2 and C3 and glue on the ¼ balsa
rings and then sand to shape. Take your ti e and you will end up with a nicely shaped cowl
C3
C1
C1
C
2
1/8” square
Cowl sheeting
Overhang
C8
C7
C6

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 8 Ver. 1.3
Building the Fuselage
Start with the fuselage sides. F2 is the right side and F1 is the left side. Note that F2 is
shorter than F1 due to the right thrust built into the firewall. Make sure you glue the
for ers on the correct sides and double check before gluing in place.
Fit F20 in place between F6B and F7B and glue in place using a square to ensure it is
perpendicular to the fuselage side.
F2
F
1
F6B
F7B
F8B
F
20
F
20

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 9 Ver. 1.3
Place F6G and F8E in place on F4 and glue in place. Be sure that you glue these on the
correct side of F4.
Fit the fuselage sides in place on F4 and glue in place. Now fit the center for er pieces
shown in the photo below. Check the plan for proper orientation of these parts. Use a square
to ake sure the aft ends of the fuselage sides (F1&F2) are perpendicular to the bench.
Now, fit the aft for er sides and botto s as well as the light ply wing bolt plate (F22)
F
1
0D
F
9D
F
8D
F
7D
F
6D
F
4
F
6G
F
8E
Short side
F10C
F9B
F10B
F10
B
F
22
F9
C
F
9B

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 10 Ver. 1.3
The rear top for ers are now glued in place.
Fit the fin asse bly in place aking sure it lines up well with the after end of the fuselage
and glue in place. This is when you will need all those 1/16”X1/8” stringers. Fit the first
stringer in place as shown below. Note that this stringer will be flush with the for er edges
as it supports sheeting. Now is a good ti e to install the plastic tubes for the pushrods.
Take a good look at the photo in on the next page for the stringer installation around the
cockpit. The top two stingers point out are to support the cockpit sheeting. The front end
fits in notches but the rear end is just but glued next to the slot in F9A
F
9A
F10
A
F
in
Assembly
1/16”X1/8” balsa

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 11 Ver. 1.3
Continue on with the other stingers and sand a taper on the rear end of the stringers. Note
that the forward end of the stringer ust be sanded down flush with the edge of F7B so
that the sheeting will lie flush with the surface of the stringers.
Stick buts up to former F9A flush with edge This will support
sheeting All other stringers fit in slots
Taper this end
Sand these ends flush

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 12 Ver. 1.3
Once all the side stringers are applied it is ti e to install the wire tailskid. Then the belly
stringer can be glued in place. You will have to taper the back end of the so they all fit.
Next, you ust fit the wing in position and drill two 1/8” dia eter holes through the two
pre-cut holes in F6D and into the wing. These holes are for the 1/8” dowel used to secure
the front of the wing. Fit the dowels (1/2” long) in place so they are just a little proud of
F6D, re ove the wing and glue these dowels in place with thin CA.
Wire skid goes here
Note: hole pre-cut for wire

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 13 Ver. 1.3
Next, the fairing strip (F12) that goes around the stab is installed. The best way to do
this is to te porarily fit the stab in place and use it to line up F12. This ay take a little
sanding to get a good fit but take your ti e and it should co e out well. Now install the
pushrod fairings aking sure you put the on the correct side. Use a 0.032” wire to line
the up in the correct location as shown in the second photo on the next page.
F12

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 14 Ver. 1.3
The photo below show the finished stringers on the top section of the fuselage. Please note
which stringers need to be notched to the edge of the for er for the sheeting.
It is now ti e to start sheeting the fuselage. First step is to glue F16A and F16B together.
This is the sheeting that will go over the cockpit area. The dashed lines are to aid cutting
out the cockpit hole later on.
F12
F14
F13
Notch to sheeting

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 15 Ver. 1.3
The front nose rings are now glued on and sanded to shape
Now take the wing and fit in place on the fuselage. Use a 3/32” drill bit to drill thru the top side of the
wing using the bolt hole in F22 as a guide. Now enlarge these two holes with a 9/64 drill bit. Take W17 and
cut threads in the hole using a 6-32 tap. When finished, apply so e thin CA to the threads and let cure.
This will harden the threads so they last longer. Now fit the wing back in place and use the 6-32 nylon bolt
and W17 to bolt the wing in place. When your happy with the fit of everything, use so e epoxy to glue W17
to the wing. Be sure you don’t glue the bolt in place. So e petroleu jelly on the threads will help prevent
this. While the wing is attached, the belly for ers (F8C, F7C, F6C) can be installed along with the central
stringer. Re ove the wing and add the re aining belly stringers (all 1/16”X1/8”)
F16B
F16A
F15
Scrap 1/32” balsa
F17B
F18B
F19B
F17A
F18A
F19A
F17C
F18C
F19C
Sanded to sh
ape

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 16 Ver. 1.3
The battery hatch is built next. Note that you ust sand down the edges of F5 so that it
follows the contour of the for ers before you apply the sheeting. The central stinger is
1/8” square balsa fro the strips cut in the 1/8” thick parts sheet. The other two stringers
are 1/16”X1/8” balsa. Check the fit of the hatch before gluing the F23 clips in place. When
the fit is good, glue both F23 in place.
W1
9
F8C
F6C
F7C
F5
F
8F
F
6A
F
7A
F23
Hole for
magnet

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 17 Ver. 1.3
Apply the 1/32” balsa sheeting to the hatch in four sections, one between each stringer.
There is a slight co pound curve to this hatch so one or two sheets will not work. The
sheeting is cut fro the extra wood on the 1/32” balsa parts sheet. Glue the sheeting to F5
first. This will keep the hatch fro warping as you continue sheeting. Once the sheeting is
done you can glue the 1/8” dia eter agnets into the pre-cut holes in F5 (hatch) and F4
(fuselage). Make sure these agnets are oriented so that they will attract each other or
the hatch will not close!
Building the Wheel Pants
The final step is to build the wheel pants. First, glue the inner parts together.
Now, ake up the wire gear legs using the drawing as a pattern. When that is finished glue
together the L1A/B and L2A/B parts. Next, re ove the tabs fro the slots in L1A/B clean
Glue this edge
first
L1A
L1B
L3A
L3B
L2A
L2B

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 18 Ver. 1.3
the wire gear legs well and glue in the slots. Use the wheel to ake sure the ain gear wire
is located correctly before gluing.
Now glue L3A/B onto L1A/B so that L1A/B is sandwiched between L2A/B and L3A/B.
Glue L4 on both sides of the landing gear asse bly.
Main gear wire
Rear gear wire
2” wheel
L3A/B
L4
L4

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 19 Ver. 1.3
You ust ake a groove in one L5 so that the wire leg will fit in it. Then glue in place.
The L6 wheel spacers ay need to be sanded down a little depending on the width of you
wheel. These will keep the wheel running in the center of the pant. Apply thin CA to the
surface of L6 once they are glue in place. This will harden the surface and keep the wheel
fro wearing the down.
Glue the final L5 part in place and now you can start carving and sanding. Take your ti e
and it should turn out well.
L5
Groove
L6
L6

©M
c
KELLAR AERO DESIGN 20 Ver. 1.3
Finished wheel pants ready for covering.
Recommended Equipment
The prototype uses the Medusa Research MR-012-030-4000 in the GWS IPS-A gearbox
(5.9:1 ratio) with an 8X6 prop and 300 ah 3S (11.1V) lipo battery. This co bination
provides very good power and is quite light. A s all outrunner style otor would work well
for this odel and the firewall has center lines etched in place to help locating it. There are
s all ply disks included on the 1/8” ply sheet to help in adjusting the distance of the otor
depending on what you choose. Be sure to use ounting screws that go all the way through
the disks and into the firewall.
Servos used are the GWS Pico servos but anything in that size and power range will work. A
short antenna (base loaded) is reco ended since this odel since it is so short.
PLY DISKS