McKELLAR AERO DESIGN CF-105 Avro Arrow Instructions for use

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 1 Ver. 1.2
CF-105
Avro Arrow
Construction Manual
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KELLAR AERO DESIGN
Wingspan 19.17”
Wing Area 180 in²
Length 27.9”
Weight 13-14 oz
Power Speed 400 or
100-120W brushless

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 2 Ver. 1.2
Table of Contents
Introduction…………………………………….…………2
Kit contents…………………………………….………….2
Required to complete……………………….………….3
General building instructions………………...………3
Building the fin……………………………………………3
Building the ing………………………..………..…….3
Building the nose and intake nacelles…….……..5
Building the fuselage…………………….……….……7
Building the canopy and spine…………….……….10
Final assembly……………………………………………11
Prepare for flight……………………………….……….12
First flight……………………………………….…………12
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this model kit. We have orked very hard to provide a model that is
both easy to build and fly hile giving spirited performance on modest po er. Please read
through all the instructions before you begin building so that errors can be avoided.
Kit Contents
•Eight sheets of laser cut 1/16” balsa
•T o sheets of laser cut 3/32” balsa
•One sheet of laser cut 3/16” balsa
•One sheet of laser cut 1/16” ply ood

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 3 Ver. 1.2
Required to Complete
•T o lengths of 1/8” diameter carbon fibre rod (7-11/16” and 11-9/16” long)
•One package of CA hinges
•T o pre-bent pieces of 1/16” piano ire for the aileron torque rods
•T o 12” lengths of 0.032” piano ire
•T o plastic tubes
•T o 1/8” diameter by 1/8” long rare-earth magnets
•One length of 3/32” aluminum tube
•Four 2-56 X ¼” socket head cap scre s
•T o Dubro Micro E/Z Connectors
•Covering
•Self-adhesive Velcro (can be found at most hard are stores)
•Medium and thin cyanoacralate (CA)
•10 minute epoxy
•T o micro servos eighing 8-10g ith 12-15 oz-in torque rating
•One micro receiver
•One speed control ith BEC (battery elimination circuit) suitable for your motor.
General Building Instructions
•It is best to remove the parts from the laser cut sheets only as they are needed. This
ill reduce any chance of confusion since some of the smaller parts are not labelled on
the actual part.
•Sand do n any remainders of the tabs hich held the parts in the sheet.
•Do not force any tabs into the slots. Enlarge the slots if the tabs are a bit tight. A
je ellers file or nail file orks ell for this.
•Be sure to check the fit of each part and assembly before applying glue.
•Use medium CA for all joints unless told other ise.
Building the Fin
Begin by removing Appendix A from the manual and place on building board ith ax paper
over the sheet to protect the plan. Pin V1 in place over the plan. Glue V2 to V3 and then pin V4
in place. When everything is aligned, you
can glue V4 to both V2 and V3. No fit the
remaining parts (V5, V6, V7 and V8) in
position and apply med. CA to the joints.
Once all the glue has cured, you can remove
the fin from the building board. Lightly sand
both sides so they are flat ith no lumps.
The leading edge and tip should be rounded
over ith a sanding block. Finally, the
trailing edge can be sanded to a taper ith
a thickness of roughly 1/16” at the outer
edge. Make sure this taper is even on both
sides of the fin.
Building the Wing
The first step is to lay the lo er ing skins in place on a flat surface and glue them together. The
right ing lo er skins are made from parts WR1, WR2, WR3, and WR4. The left ing lo er

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 4 Ver. 1.2
skins are made from WL1, WL2, WL3 and WL4. Make sure these parts are lying flat hen you
glue them together. Once the glue has dried, give all the joints a light sanding so they are flush.
Next, the ing ribs R1-R5 are fit in place on the lo er ing skin. The tabs in the ribs fit into the
slots in the skin. Once the ribs are in place and everything is flat you can glue the ing ribs to
the skin ith medium CA. Once the glue has cured, sand the ends of the ribs so they are flush
and perpendicular to the edges of the ing skin.
The leading edge is made by laminating WR9 (WR9 on the bottom) and WR10 together for
the right ing. Do the same ith WL9 and WL10 for the right ing. No glue the trailing edge
(W13) and the leading edge in place. Sand the top surface of the trailing edge so it follo s the
profile of the ing ribs.
No , take the short length of
carbon fibre rod and fit it in the
for ard holes through R1 and
R2. The rod should protrude
out ard of R2 by 1/16”. Apply CA
to the rod/rib joint to fix in place.
Do the same thing ith the longer
rod and it should again protrude
1/16” outboard of R3. *NOTE*
only glue the rods into one ing
panel at this time.
The final step is to glue the top
ing skins together like as done
for the bottoms skins. The upper
skin for the right ing is made from WR5, WR6, WR7 and WR8. Similarly, the left skin is made
from WL5, WL6, WL7 and WL8. When these are complete, you can glue the skins onto the
ing panels. Make sure everything fits ell before you start ith the glue. First, glue the skin to
the leading edge ith CA. Apply aliphatic glue on the tops of the ribs and trailing edge. Apply
eight (phone book orks ell) to the panel and leave this a fe hours until it has dried. No
you can sand off any overhang and
shape the leading edge.
The elevons need to be sanded to
shape. Take the left (WL15) and
right (WR15) elevons and sand a
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
W13
WR9
WR10
LONG ROD
SHORT ROD

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 5 Ver. 1.2
taper so the top surface thins to 1/16” thick at the trailing edge. Mark the leading edge 1/2” in
from the inner end of the elevon and drill a 1/16” diameter hole 3/8” deep. Make a 1/16” slot
from this hole to the inner end. This hole and slot ill fit the torque rod. Mark the three hinge
locations on both the ing trailing edge and the elevon leading edge.
Using a hobby knife, make a slot at these locations. Finally, sand the leading edge of the elevons
so a slight bevel (20°) top and bottom. See Appendix B
Building the Nose and Intake Nacelles
We ill build the nose section first. Begin by
gluing the formers N5, N6A, N6B, N7A, N7B
and N8 in place on N1. Make sure these parts are
perpendicular to N1. Next, fit the top sheeting
(N3) and the bottom sheeting (N4) in place and
apply CA to the joints. The right (N2-R) and left
(N2-L) side sheeting can no be glued in place.
Sand the sheeting edges so they are flush ith the
former corners. No you can glue the corner
sheeting in place. Glue one top corner sheet
(N10) and one opposite bottom corner sheeting
(N11) in place. Trim these parts flush ith the top
and side sheeting and then apply the remaining
top and bottom corner sheets (N10 and N11).
Sand the sheeting edges flush ith one another
and sand the sheeting flush ith the front N8 and N5. Laminate the nose block from the four
parts labelled N9 and glue in place on N5. Finally, sand the sheeting and nose cone into a nice
round shape.
N1
N
5
N
6A
N
7A
N
7B
N
6B
N
8
N3
N2
-
R
N2
-
L
Nose sanded to shape

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 6 Ver. 1.2
The intake nacelles are
built next. Start by
building the left nacelle.
Glue E3 and E4 onto E1
making sure they are both
perpendicular to E1. Fit
E5 in place and apply
glue. No , glue the top
sheet (E6) and the
bottom sheet (E7) in
place. The outer side
sheet (E2) is glued on
next. Sand the sheeting
edges so they are flush
ith the corners of E3
and E4. Glue E8 onto the
top corner and E9 on the
lo er corner. Carve and
sand the corner
sheeting to a round
profile.
The right nacelle is
built in the same
ay using parts
labelled D1 to D9.
Once the intake
nacelles are finished
it is time to mount
them on the
fuselage. Glue the
intake nacelles into
F16 on the for ard
end of the fuselage.
The tabs ill fit
right in place. Blend
the nacelles into the
fuselage ith some light
sanding.
E1
E6
E3
E7
E4
E5
E2
E9
E8
Nacelle sanded to shape
Nacelles glued onto
the fuselage

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 7 Ver. 1.2
Building the Fuselage
The first step is to build the t o center fuselage formers (F17 and F18). These are built up
from parts F17A,B,C,D and F18A,B,C,D. Assemble these parts over Appendix A and apply CA to
all the joints. Lay F1 flat on the building board and fit the formers (F16, F17, F18 and F19) in
place. Use a small square to keep the formers square to F1 and glue the formers to F1 ith some
CA. The fuselage sides (F3R and F3L) are no fit in place. Make sure all the joints are tight and
then apply CA to the joints. Glue the t o F14’s in place. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut the
battery hatch (F4) free of F1 and set aside.
The battery opening
doublers ill no be
installed. No , glue F8 in
position up against the
for ard former (F16). Next,
the t o F6 doublers are
glued in place. Make sure
these parts are pressed
against F8 and the fuselage
sides. Finally, F7 is glued in
place. Take one of the
magnets and glue it in the
hole in F7. The magnet
must be flush ith the top
side of F7.
Take the part F4 that you
cut from F1 and glue in
place the t o F9’s, F11,
F12 and F13. Then fit the
t o F10’s in position and
apply glue to the joints. Glue
a 1/8” magnet in the hole in
F4 making sure it is flush
ith the underside of F4.
Make sure that the battery
poles in the fuselage and
battery hatch are opposite
so that the hatch ill close.
This completes the battery
hatch for no .
Remove the eight F21
parts from the sheet and
laminate then together is
pairs. Fit these in the slots in
the fuselage sides and the t o F14 parts. Apply CA to the joints to fix in place. Using the carbon
fibre spars or a 1/8” do el, position P4 so the hole lines up ith the for ard spar hole in both
F16
F17
F18
F19
F14
F3R
F3L
F1
F8
F6
F7
F11
F9
F13
F9
F12
F10

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 8 Ver. 1.2
fuselage sides. Carefully apply CA to P4 making sure the do el or spar does not get glued in
place. Do the same thing ith P5 and the rear spar hole on both fuselage sides.
Take the t o plastic tubes
and cut them so you have
t o lengths 8.5” long. Fit
these tubes in place through
the holes in the F17 and
F18 formers. The for ard
ends of the tubes should
protrude beyond F17 by
1/4”. When these tubes are
positioned properly, glue in
place ith CA.
The fire all is made by
laminating P1 and P2
together. Make sure the
small holes in P1 and P2
line up before gluing. Use
10 minute epoxy to glue these
t o parts together. Note that
the photo sho s blind nuts
hich ere used on the
prototype but not required for
the kit.
Make sure the fire all is
perpendicular to the fuselage
top (F1) and glue the fire all to
the fuselage sides. Next, bend
F1 into contact ith the fire all
and apply glue to the joint.
Make sure the fire all has not
shifted during this process.
F21 laminations
P5
P4
P1
P2
Epoxy fillet here

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 9 Ver. 1.2
The fuselage bottom skin (F2) can no be glued in place. After the bottom skin is in place,
apply a fillet of epoxy ith some filler on the fire all/fuselage skin joints. This ill strengthen the
joint and secure the fire all very ell.
The corner sheeting ill no be installed. Start ith the top side. Sand the edges of the fuselage
sides and top sheeting on an angle so they match the angled edge of the former F19 and the
fire all. Take F20 sheeting and glue it over this corner. Do this on both sides of the fuselage and
then sand a radius into this edge.
Do the same procedure for the bottom corners of the fuselage using F22 for the long section
and F23 for shorter aft section. Cut out the t o cooling holes in the lo er aft fuselage skin after
all the sanding is complete. This finishes up the fuselage for no .
F2
Cooling holes
F22
Fuselage sanded to
shape

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KELLAR AERO DESIGN 10 Ver. 1.2
Building the Canopy and Spine
Start by gluing the canopy formers (C3, C4 and C5) onto C2. No glue the canopy base (C1)
onto the bottom of C2 and the formers. Frame up the f d spine by gluing the formers C8 and
C9 onto C7 and then gluing C6 to this assembly.
Cut some balsa from sheet MAD-ARW12 and sheet both
the f d spine and the rounded section of the canopy.
Bending the sheeting into shape is easier if you et the
outside ith some indo cleaner containing ammonia.
Once this sheeting has dried fully, trim and sand the edges
as ell as the for ard section of the canopy sheeting so
that you can apply flat sheeting to the for ard area. Sheet
one side of the f d canopy and then sand the sheeting
edge flush ith the opposite face. Apply sheeting to the
remaining face and sand everything flush.
The rear spine is laminated from the t o C11 and C12
parts. No , trim and sand this part so it blends in ith the
rear end of the f d spine and the fin.
C2
C3
C5
C1
C4
C7
C6
C9
C8
C12
C11
AFT Spine
AFT Spine sanded to
shape
FWD Spine
Canopy