Vintage Model Co MESSERSCHMITT BF109 User manual

MESSERSCHMITT BF109
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Messerschmitt BF109
THE MESSERSCHMITT BF109
– A MENACING MACHINE
The Messerschmitt BF109 (often called the ME109)
was designed by Willy Messerschmitt and Robert
Lusser of Bayerische Flugzeugwerke (BFW) – later
to become Messerschmitt AG.
The aircraft rst ew in 1935 ironically powered by
a Rolls Royce Kestrel engine as the intended Jumo
engine was not ready. It was designed specically
to take part in a Luftwaffe competition to select
a new ghter aircraft as Germany rearmed in
contravention of the treaty of Versailles. Technically
advanced, it won the competition by some
margin; it would take Focke Wulf, one of the rival
companies, until 1941 to catch up and arguably
surpass the ME109 with the Focke Wulf 190.
The all metal monocoque design had many
innovative features including two large magnesium
alloy forgings that held the engine and the
undercarriage, meaning that the lightly constructed
wings did not have to carry landing loads and could
easily be removed for transport or repair. This
feature, although efcient, left the undercarriage
with a distinctive narrow ‘splayed’ track, resulting
in poor stability whilst landing and taxiing, killing
or injuring many German pilots. The ME109 was
continually developed during the entirety of the war
with nearly 34,000 built, more than any other ghter
in history.
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YOUR KIT
This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally
constructed, rubber powered, free ight model of a
Daimler Benz powered ME109E (Emil). ME109Es
were painted in a myriad of schemes, most of
which were complicated and not in block colours
and would be difcult to achieve with a rubber-
powered scale model such as this. Therefore the kit
is provided with the materials (other than paints) to
complete a simple block colour scheme to capture
the spirit of the aircraft as would have fought in The
Battle of Britain. Alternatively you can decide to do
your own favourite or more complicated scheme if
you wish.
Construction of the model from this kit uses the
traditional method of ‘stick and tissue’, that consists
of a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework),
covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks
are built over a plan that is printed at the exact
scale of the model, which is in essence a real
engineering drawing.
Power is provided by rubber strip motor that is
wound up before ight. Free ight means just that –
once the model is launched, it is on its own. It must
follow a predetermined ight path established when
the model is initially adjusted for ight or ‘trimmed’.
This type of traditional building technique and
ying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is
extremely rewarding.
The ME109 is just one of a series of kits designed
and manufactured by the Vintage Model Company.
Aeromodelling was very popular from the 1950s
until the 1980s and following a decline and the loss
of UK manufacturers such as FROG, KeilKraft and
Veron, a revival is now underway. The advent of
modern technology such as laser cutting of parts
and the growth of the internet giving access to
information on the skills and techniques required
to successfully build and y these models, means
new enthusiasts are discovering the joys of
aeromodelling every day.
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Messerschmitt BF109
Typically for a small model and in the spirit of the
traditional kits, proles are simplied and adjusted
from the original and a relatively large propeller
is used. This is done so that the model is light
and stable enough to y on its own, is simple in
construction and can work with the rubber motor.
These adjustments have been done with care and
sensitivity so that the shape and spirit of the original
aircraft is preserved as much as possible. Also in the
spirit of the traditional kits, additional items required
to build the model are things that can be found in the
kitchen drawer or are easily available on the high street.
KIT CONTENTS
• Three balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts
and strip wood.
• PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
• One 150mm diameter plastic propeller.
• One pre-bent motor hook and shaft.
• Three low friction plastic ‘nose’ bushings
– one for the propeller and two for the
undercarriage wheels.
• One vacuum formed canopy and spinner.
• Piano wire for the main undercarriage and tail
wheel legs.
• One motor peg (cocktail stick or toothpick).
• Rubber motor strip.
• Tissue to cover the model.
• Parts reference sheet (W), full size summary plan
sheet (X), scheme diagram sheet (Y) and scheme
markings (Z) printed on lightweight paper.
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OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED
CONSUMABLES
• Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’),
quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’.
• Cling lm or waxed paper to cover your plan or a
wax candle to rub over it.
• One sheet of standard printer paper (80gsm).
• Tissue sealant – if you want to y your model
outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details).
• Paints (Humbrol-style enamels) if you want to
give your model an authentic scheme.
TOOLS
• A at piece of wood or cork that is large enough for
the largest part of the model and soft enough for
pins to be pushed into.
• Some modelling pins. If these aren’t available,
dress making pins or drawing pins with tall heads
will sufce.
• A sharp craft knife or scalpel.
• Pliers and wire cutters.
• 180 and 600 grit sandpaper and a small sanding
block, or a disposable nail le with rough and
smooth sides.
• A small engineers square or a plastic set square
from a school geometry set.
• 30cm rule (preferably steel).
• ‘Blu-Tack’ or plasticine.
• A ne marker pen.
• Brushes – one thin and ne, one at and soft
10-12mm wide.
• An old perfume bottle or similar that can deliver
a ne mist of tap water.
• Some sprung wooden clothes pegs to use as clamps.
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THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES,
TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS
The plan provides most instructions for the
construction of the major components.
Major components are all built over the outlines
on the plan provided.
Cover your plan with cling lm or waxed paper or
rub it all over with a wax candle to stop the parts
sticking to it.
There are some terms used on the plan that you
may not be familiar with:
• Laminate: This means to make a glued sandwich
of various parts, often with the grain of the parts
crossed to make a single thicker and stronger
part. When laminating, ensure that the parts are
held together or weighted down and are aligned
according to the plan instructions. Make sure that
you remove excess glue that squishes out, as not
doing so can make the parts harder to sand and
in internal corners, may leave an undesirable
glue ‘llet’.
• Cut through section: This is simply a way of
showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if
you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
The parts that are ‘cut’ are shown ‘cross hatched’.
• Bevel: This means to angle the edges of a part,
usually by sanding.
SAFETY
This kit is not a toy and as such is not suitable for
children below the age of 14. Read and follow
any instructions and warnings given on the
various glues, adhesives and paints, etc. When
ying your model, follow the guidelines in the
section ‘Trimming and ying your model’.
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TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL
Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully.
• A light model will y much better than a heavy
one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly. Work
neatly and remove excess adhesive that squishes
out from joints – glue weighs far more than the
balsa wood! A piece of stiff 1.6mm square scrap
wood with the end cut at an angle makes an ideal
scraper to remove excess glue from corners or slots.
• To avoid losing the parts, remove them from the
laser cut sheets only when you need them. Use
the parts reference sheet to identify the required
part(s). Keep what remains of the balsa sheets
once the parts have been removed. This ‘ scrap’
can be useful later to replace a broken part, or
make other detailed parts of your choosing.
• Balsa wood is very delicate – a light touch is
required and this is especially true when sanding.
If you have not sanded balsa before, practice on
the scrap edges of the balsa sheets. You will be
surprised by how quickly the material is removed!
• When using glue (especially cyano), don’t use it
from the tube directly. Instead, drop some onto
a non-porous disposable surface such as clean
foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save
pistachio nut shells – one held upright and rm
on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an
ideal disposable glue container. You can then
pick up precise amounts of glue on the end of
a pin or piece of wire to apply to the parts. This
saves overuse of the glue and the potential
embarrassment of sticking yourself or other items
to your model!
• All of the contact surfaces of the parts to be
joined should be covered in glue.
• To remove the balsa parts, cut through the tabs
that join them to the sheets with a sharp craft
knife or scalpel – do not try to snap them from the
sheets as they may split. Remove the remains of
the tab with a light sanding.
• Some parts have a laser engraved letter ‘T’
on them – this means that the part should be
orientated with the letter T to the top when it is
correctly assembled.
• If you decide to paint your model, then use paint
sparingly. It is very easy to add weight with paint
and your model will not y well if it is too heavy.
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• The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 is hard and
strong but heavy – it is used for parts where strength
is in preference to weight. Sheets 2 and 3 are weaker
and softer but light and are used for parts where
lightness is key, obviously at the expense of strength.
There are long lengths of cut balsa (known as strip)
on both the ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ sheets, so use strip
wisely and as suggested by the instructions to make
things as strong and light as possible.
• Never push pins through the balsa parts or strip –
it will weaken them or cause the wood to split. Use
pins each side of the parts either angling them or
using the head to hold the parts down.
• Never force a part to t – check and adjust it until
it ts snugly but without force.
• Pin parts together tightly but be careful not to crush
or damage the wood – a tight joint is a strong one.
• Trial t the parts before gluing and carefully adjust
them if required. They are cut accurately, but
small errors can occur between the parts and the
printed plan. Wood is a natural material and its
thickness may vary – it will contract and/or expand
after the parts are laser cut.
• You can work on several parts at one time.
For instance, you can make up the wheels and
undercarriage at the same time as something else
is setting. Just make sure you read through the
instructions rst and follow a logical sequence.
• If you have never bent wire parts before, then grab
a few paper clips and practice on those with your
pliers, before committing to bend the (expensive)
piano wire in the kit. Use a ne Sharpie marker to
mark the position of each bend as you go along.
• The internet contains a huge amount of
information to help you build your model.
Searching for terms such as ‘free ight scale’ and
‘stick and tissue’ will yield example builds and a lot
of useful information to help you with your build.
• Above all… take your time!
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MAIN PARTS AND FRAMES
BUILDING SCHEDULE
THE MAIN WING PANELS
1) Identify and remove one set of parts in the
following quantities from the laser cut sheets:
1 off each W1-W7, R1-R7, R2A, special
corner gussets L1, L2, T1 and T2 and 3 off
corner gussets.
2) On the left hand wing outline, pin down the
leading and trailing edges W1 and W2, along
with a stiff 1.6mm square strip that forms the
lower wing spar, noting that the spar nishes
inside the notch of R7.
3) Trial t the inner and outer ribs R2 and R7, then
once you are satised, t and glue all of the ribs
(not R1), making sure that they are upright and
properly located in the lower spar, leading and
trailing edges.
4) Glue in position R1, quickly followed by W5,
using the angled face to tilt rib R1. This sets the
dihedral angle.
5) In the two ‘bays’ between R2 to R3 and R3 to R4,
t the parts W6 and W7 on top of the lower spar
as shown on the plan.
6) Fit a stiff 1.6mm square strip as the upper spar,
noting that it runs from the notch of R7 and
nishes at the notch at R1.
7) Glue in position parts R2A ensuring that the
joints are snug and strong.
8) Glue tip pieces W3 and W4 in position, along
with special corner gussets L1, L2, T1 and T2 and
plain corner gussets.
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9) Fit a stiff 1.6mm square strip as the upper rear
spar, noting that it runs from the notch of R1 and
nishes at the notch at R2.
10) Leave the left hand panel to set before removing
it from the building board, then repeat for the
right hand wing panel. Leave the right hand
panel pinned to the board for the next step.
COMPLETING THE WINGS
1) Take the left hand wing panel and apply glue to
the end face of R1 and glue to the face of R1 on
the right hand wing panel ensuring it is correctly
aligned to the prole on the plan. Prop up the
wing tip 50mm using a match box or similar
(giving 25mm each wing). The two pieces can
be clamped together using a sprung clothes peg
or gentle modellers clamp. Just make sure that
the wood is not crushed as it is clamped.
2) Leave entire assembly to set before removing it
from the building board.
3) Round off the leading edge of the wing assembly
and taper the trailing edge as shown on the plan.
Carefully give the entire structure a light sanding
to smooth the joints, remove lumps and bumps
and the burnt edges of the laser parts.
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THE TAIL PLANE (STABILIZER)
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: 1 off T1, 2off T2-T5, 1 off T6 and 2
off corner gussets.
2) From the stiff 1.6mm square strip, cut a length
for the central rib (that runs from T1 to T6) and
set it aside.
3) Cut the two wider ribs from the strip on sheet 3.
4) From the light 1.6mm square strip, cut all of the
other ribs using the plan to get the right length
and set these aside.
5) Pin down the tail plane central spar T1.
6) Lay out the parts starting at T6 and work round
in each direction trial tting them. When you
are satised, glue all the parts in position making
sure that you have nice neat butt joints. Allow
this outline to set.
7) Once the outline is set, glue all of the ribs in
place adjusting the length if necessary. Glue the
2 off corner gussets in position.
8) Leave to set, then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not to make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surfaces by over sanding.
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THE FIN AND RUDDER
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: FR1-FR7 and 1 off corner gusset.
2) From the stiff 1.6mm square strip, cut a length
for the base rib (which eventually sits on top of
the tail plane) and set it aside.
3) From the light 1.6mm square strip, cut all of the
other ribs using the plan to get the right length.
Set these aside.
4) Pin down the n and rudder central spar FR1.
5) Offer up part FR7, then the stiff base rib. Glue
in position along with FR6 and the corner gusset.
6) Lay out parts FR2, FR3, FR4 and FR5. When
you are happy they are a good t, glue them
together and to FR1 with snug butt joints.
7) Once the outline is set, glue all of the ribs in
place adjusting the length if necessary.
8) Leave to set, then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not to make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surfaces by over sanding.
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THE FUSELAGE
This is built by building one half over the plan on
top of a central keel using half formers, which along
with 1.6mm square strip ‘stringers’, provide the
fuselage shape. It is then lifted from the plan before
the other half formers and stringers are added to
complete it. NB some parts of the fuselage are
added after covering as indicated on the plan.
To build the left hand fuselage side:
1) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 1 off each:
F4-F11, F7A, K2, plus: 2 off F2 and F3, and 1
off K1. Note that the part K1 is quite delicate
and large, so carefully cut it from the sheets
and handle it with care.
2) Make 2 opposite hand (i.e. one left hand, one
right hand) laminations from parts F2 and F3,
pinning them to the board to keep them at
and aligned. Ensure that the parts are orientated
correctly, referring to the ‘T’ markings and that
the rectangular cut out in each part lines up
perfectly. Ensure any excess glue is removed from
the slots in F3, otherwise the stringers added later
may not t. Leave the parts to dry thoroughly and
remove from the board before proceeding.
3) Carefully pin down part K1 over the prole on the
plan, aligning it carefully to the prole and the slot
positions. Avoid placing pins where they will get
in the way of other pieces to be added later on.
4) Glue in position the F2/F3 lamination, making
sure that the ‘T’ is at the top. You must make
sure that it is accurately located and that it is
perfectly at right angles to the board using your
square. Allow it to dry before proceeding.
5) Trial t the formers F4 to F11 in the relevant
notch in the side keel K2, referring to the
positions of the notches on the plan. These
should be a snug, but not overly tight t. Also
check their t in the notches of main keel K1.
6) Trial t part F7A and then bevel the end of part
F7 to meet it neatly. Glue part F7A in position.
7) Apply a stripe of glue on K1 adjacent to each
notch (but not in the notch) for the formers F4
to F11, then position each one of the formers
in the notches with the ‘T’ letter towards the
top. Then, without hesitation, apply glue to the
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Messerschmitt BF109
notches and ends of the side keel K2 and t it
carefully to the formers, being careful not to
crush them. Make sure that the front end of K2
is properly located in the F2/F3 notch and check
again that F2/F3 has remained upright. Use extra
pins if required to make sure that everything
stays at. Leave the glue to set for a while.
8) Add stringers in the notches from 1.6mm square
strip. Use stiff strip for the stringer above where
part K12 will t, the stringer that forms the lower
edge of the cockpit, stringer ‘B’ and the two
lower front stringers that run from the nose to
F5. All others should be from the light strip.
Taper to t those stringers that meet the stern
post at the rear of the main keel. Note how
stringer ‘C’ is angled and bevelled to t against
stringer ‘A’ and stringer ‘B’ and that the very top
stringer that runs from F7A stops at F8 and is
angled outwards such that it touches the stringer
below at F8.
9) Allow everything to dry for as long as possible,
then remove it from the board. Carefully cut out
the ve temporary crosspieces from the main keel.
To build the right hand fuselage side:
10) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 1 off each:
F1, F4-F11, F7A, K2, plus the F2/F3 lamination
from step 2.
11) Glue in position the F2/F3 lamination, making
sure that the ‘T’ is at the top, then add former F1
aligning the square hole. Pin the assembly nose
down on to the board to ensure all is at, square
and true. Allow this to dry before proceeding.
12) Now follow previous steps 5–8 for this side,
checking at each stage of adding a stringer that
the fuselage is staying straight and true.
13) Remove parts in the following quantities
from the laser cut sheets: 2 off F12. Note the
positions of the ‘T’ on each part.
14) Starting with the left hand side, trial t the
correct F12, ensuring that it meets the stringer
and K2. Then glue it in position ensuring a snug
and ush t to the outer prole.
15) Repeat step 14 for the right hand side. Set the
fuselage aside and complete the nose block.
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THE NOSE BLOCK
1) Remove parts in the following quantities from
the laser cut Sheets: 1 off each NB1-NB4, and
3 off NP1.
2) With the cross markings and the letter ‘T’ on
part NB4 facing outwards, Laminate the parts
NB1-NB4, aligning the central hole. Also make
sure that the ‘T’ on each part is in the same
orientation and that the proles are evenly
matched. Allow this nose block assembly to dry,
then set it aside.
3) Laminate the parts NP1-NP3, aligning the
central hole, make sure that the ‘T’ on each part
is in the same orientation and that the edges are
all ush. Allow this nose plug assembly to dry.
Once dry, trial t it to the square hole in the
fuselage nose, adjusting it to have an easy t.
Cyano adhesive can be run around the hole and
the edges of the part to harden the wood. BUT
DO NOT glue this plug to the fuselage
4) Glue the nose plug to the nose block, ensuring
that it lines up with the cross markings on NB4,
and the holes remain in line. Make sure that
any glue that squishes out between the parts is
removed; otherwise it will prevent the parts from
sitting together properly. Allow the completed
nose block to dry.
5) Glue a plastic nose bush in to the hole in the
nose block using cyano adhesive. DON’T
ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO GO INSIDE
THE BUSH.
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FINISHING THE FUSELAGE
1) Fit the nose block, BUT DO NOT GLUE IT
IN PLACE! Then sand it to match the fuselage
to the prole as shown on the plan. NB The face
of the very front nose block piece (NB1) should
remain round to match the spinner disc later on.
2) Sand the fuselage all over to remove the burnt
edges of the parts. Be careful not to over sand
and ruin the prole of the formers, especially
around the cockpit area, where you should bevel
F7A as indicated on the plan.
3) Carefully cut out the section of the keel in the
cockpit position between F6 and F7A, then set
the fuselage and nose block aside.
THE WHEELS , UNDERCARRIAGE AND SPINNER
1) Using wire cutters and pliers make up the
undercarriage legs and tail wheel from the wire
provided. Make sure that you make two legs
and that they are opposite hands.
2) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 2 off WH1,
2 off WH2, 4 off WH3 and 2 off WH4 NOTE:
PARTS WH4 ARE VERY DELICATE SO
TAKE EXTRA CARE! Note that the tail wheel
part TW1 is positioned inside one of the WH3
parts, so make sure it is retained for step 9.
3) Sand the internal diameter of the WH3 parts to
remove the ‘tags’ and burnt edges using a piece
of sandpaper wrapped round a pencil or similar.
4) Laminate the parts cross grained as shown on the
plan to make 2 wheels. Make sure all of the parts
stay concentric. Once they are set, round the
edges off as shown on the plan. If you want to paint
the wheels, they should be coated with full strength
dope and sanded to a smooth nish beforehand.
5) Fit a plastic nose bush to each wheel using cyano
adhesive – DON’T ALLOW THE ADHESIVE
TO GO INSIDE THE BUSH.
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6) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets 2 off LG1,
2 off LG2 and 2off LG3.
7) In parts LG1 and LG2 make a groove following
the line etched into the parts. This is best
achieved using the left over piece of wire from the
undercarriage legs, or failing that an empty ball
point pen drawn along to simply ‘dent’ the wood.
8) Follow the instructions on the plan to make up
the two main undercarriage leg assemblies. Be
very careful to make sure that you make a left
hand and right hand assembly. If you want to
paint the leg assemblies, they should be sealed
and sanded to a smooth nish beforehand.
9) The wheels can then be added to the axles of
the legs, and retained by simply bending up the
wire, or using the insulations from some thin
electrical ex held with a blob of glue. NB make
sure that the glue does not enter the wheel
centre bushing and the wheel can rotate freely.
10) Take part TW1 retained from step 2 and glue to
the centre of the tail wheel wire with cyano. Allow
it to dry then sand the wood ush to the wire.
11) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 1 off SP1,
and 2 off SP2. Laminate them together as shown
on the plan, making sure that they are cross
grained and that glue does not enter the radial
slots in part SP1.
12) Once set, locate the plastic propeller to the slots
formed by the two parts SP2 and centralise the
radiused boss to the hole in part SP1. Once you
are happy with the t, glue the propeller in place
with cyano, once again ensuring that glue does
not go into the radial slots or into the hole that
locates the radiused boss. Once this has set cut
out the centre part that located the boss.
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RADIATORS, EXHAUSTS AND AIR INLET
1) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 2 off EX1,
4 off EX2, 4 off EX3, 3 off A1, 2 off A2, 4 off
RD1, 2 off RD2, 2 off RD3 and 1 off RD4.
2) Make up these parts as shown on the plan. If you
want to paint these, they should be coated with
full strength dope and sanded to a smooth nish
beforehand, although the radiators can be tissue
covered to make it a better match to the fuselage.
FILLET PIECES
1) The only remaining parts that should be left on
the laser cut sheets are 2 off WF, 1 off K3 and 1
off FR8. Remove them and set them aside until
nal assembly.
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COVERING
The tissue in the kit is used to provide a ‘skin’ over
the balsawood framework. The general idea is that
the tissue is attached to the framework and then
sprayed with water and then left to dry. As the tissue
dries it shrinks and goes tight. For ying indoors
this can be left ‘as is’. However, sealing the tissue is
advisable if you intend to y your model outside as
it makes the tissue more durable and stops it going
‘saggy’ if it is damp or humid. Traditionally cellulose
dope was used for sealing the tissue (thus the
process is often called ‘doping’). Cellulose dope is
pretty smelly and is now frowned upon for shipping
by post making it hard to obtain unless you have
an old fashioned model shop in your locality.
Two alternatives are available:
Clear lacquer This is available at many DIY stores
in spray cans. The model can be given a single coat
of it once it is built, but before the paper decals are
applied. If you use this method then make sure that
you only apply a light coat. It is very easy to get
carried away with it and add a lot of weight!
Eze Dope This is a modern replacement for cellulose
dope, and being water based it is okay to be shipped
by post. This is thinned (30% Eze-dope to 70% water)
and then brushed on the tissue after it has been
shrunk. If you choose to use the Eze Dope then you
should shrink the tissue with a 5% solution of it (rather
than plain water) and pin the model parts down time
each time you apply a coat; as you do when you
shrink them following the instructions overleaf:
VMC Instruction Booklet - Messerschmitt OCT18.indd 20 23/10/2018 18:23