Morris 11.9 h.p. Operating and installation instructions

MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. COil
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
No. OF SHEETS 1 I SHEET No. 1
Date of issue: March, 1935
INDEX TO MORRIS
11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P. SERVICE INFORMATION
INDEX
DIAGNOSING ENGINE TROUBLES
DISMANTLING THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX -
CLUTCH SPIN -
FOUR-THROW PUMP CAMSHAFT
RE-LINING SMITH SHOCK ABSORBERS
FITTING THE SPLIT PIN TO STARTER CHAIN RIVET -
ADJUSTMENT OF CHAIN COMPENSATED BRAKE
FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY
PROPELLER SHAFT THRUST BEARINGS (LUBRICATION)
CAMSHAFT END PLAY
PERIODICAL INSPECTION
PETROL CONSUMPTION
OIL LEAKAGE
ENGINE TIMING DIAGRAMS -
SPECIAL WORKSHOP EQUIPMENT
CHANGING A CHASSIS FRAME
ENGINE REMOVAL
GEARBOX REMOVAL
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION -
OIL LEAKS FROM ENGINE SUMP AND DYNAMOTOR COVER
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT ON 1930 COWLEY AND LIGHT VAN
WIRING DIAGRAMS
BISHOP CAM STEERING GEAR -
. REMOVAL OF TIMING CHAIN
TAPPET LUBRICATION
COIl
CO/2
CO/3
COj4
COj5
CO/6
COj7
COj8
COj9
COjl5
COjl6
COjl7
CO/18
COjl9
CO/26
CO/32
COj33
CO/34
COj35
CO/38
CO/40
COj42
CO/43
COj46
CO/47
COj48
Numbers missing from the sequence indicate that the sheets concerned are obsolete or have
been transferred to the General Service Information Binder. :' 0
. '"
/

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/2
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 2 I
SHEET No. 1
Date of issue,' july, 1928
Diagnosing Engine Troubles-Symptoms Described
IT
is hoped that the following notes on the diagnosis of engine troubles will be read through very carefully, and
that notes will be made for ready reference, by the Repair
Department staffs of our Dealers.
Unfortunately, we are continually brought into contact with cases where a tremendous amount of quite
unnecessary work has been carried out on a car as the result of an incorrect preliminary diagnosis.
The amount of
expense and general dissatisfaction thus caused to owner, Dealer and manufacturer alike will be appreciated.
These notes have been prepared after very careful consultation between the
various" running" departments
at Cowley and the Engine Works.
It is appreciated, however, that diagnosis in the most skilful hands is not always
reliable, and whilst all the symptoms described may vary
under differing combinations of circumstance3, there is no
doubt at all that if these notes are read through carefully and mastered a great deal of trouble will
be saved a\l round.
May
we take this opportunity of advising our Dealers to leave well alone, particularly in the cases of new cars,
excepting of course the more serious kinds
of knocks due to loose big-end bearings, etc., which, if unattended, may
cause the crankshaft journals to become misshapen.
TROUBLE
(a) Loose starter chain:
loose dynamotor drive sproc-
ket: starter chain wheel
sleeve a slack
fit in pressure
plate.
(b) Loose big-end bearing
on journal.
(c) Loose little-end bear-
II1g.
(d) Connecting rod little-
end fouling piston boss for
the gudgeon pin.
(e) Piston slackness.
SYMPTOMS
In all cases a heavy rumbling noise is heard and a general lumpiness can be
felt throughout the car when engine
is idling. The trouble is accentuated b-y
faulty carburation, causing the engine to hunt. A roughness is noticed in accelera-
'ling up to approximately 18 m.p.h. on top gear. Can
be relieved at slow speeds
by pressing the starter button.
Which of the three possible irregularities
is actually giving rise to the above symp-
toms
is best ascertained by the process of elimination. Oversize chain wheel
sleeves are obtainable.
A rattle usually heard at speeds of between
25-35 m.p.h. when the accelerator
pedal
is half released, depending in intensity upon the amount of slackness. May be
a heavy knock in bad cases.
If engine is speeded up to about one-quarter (t)
throttle with car at rest the noise will develop and can then be cut out by shorting
the sparking plug of the cylinder concerned. When plug is released heavy knock
will be heard. A knock from the big-end can be due to the brass shell oscillating
around the crank pin.
This is generally caused by the thin brass shims being
sheared at the edges by the sharp edge of the shell when the cap is tightened, but
it may occasionally be due to the shell bedding into the rod. In such cases there
may be no
up and down or sideways movement of the big-end at all, and to the
casual observer it would appear to be quite free from knock, hence it
is necessary
to test for a partial rotary movement. A tapping noise at tick-over speeds, which
does not cut
out when the plug is shorted, may easily be mistaken for gudgeon
pin knock and may be due to the above-mentioned loose big-end bearings. (See
"Description of Piston types with notes on Connecting Rods 11.9 Engines
150050 ... "-use of steel sandwich shims for big-end brasses.)
Usually heard at slow speeds only when the engine
is idling with car at rest.
A hollow sound, more pronounced on
13.9 engines. Cannot be cut out by shorting
sparking plug, although tone
is dulled down somewhat. In very bad cases it may
be heard at speeds in excess of the normal tick-over.
If when little-end knock is diagnosed it is found on dismantling that only a
small amount of play can be felt, look for the trouble
as under paragraph (b). (Big-
ends oscillating.)
If gudgeon pins are fitted up tight to cure a mistaken little-end
knock, troubles in other directions (such as piston clatter) may be expected.
It is a fact that quite an appreciable amount of slackness can exist between the
gudgeon pin and its bearings in the piston and connecting rod without causing a
knock.
N.B. -Suitable ranges of oversize gudgeon pins and special reamers and reaming
fixtures are
available-apply Service (Parts) Department.
Sounds rather like a tappet which has slacked back and
is heard almost up to
half throttle, with or without load. Shorting the sparking plug usually dulls the
sound somewhat,
but alternatively the effect may be to aggravate the knock.
When taken down evidence of actual touching should be looked for.
A knocking or rattling noise, depending upon the number of cylinders affected,
heard particularly when opening
up from cold. The sounds tend to go off gradually
as the engine gets hotter and speed increases.
Piston slackness need never be suspected in new engines. (See sections g and
f.)
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/2
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/ 28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 2 I
SHEET No. 2
Date of issue: July, 1928
Diagnosing Engine Troubles-continued
(j) Piston tightness.
(g) Blow-back past piston
(a particular form
of piston
knock).
(h) Main bearing loose.
(i) End play on crankshaft.
(j) End play on camshaft.
(k) Loose fan pulley, failing
to pull up spacer on to timing
wheel.
(l) Ridges on cylinder walls
at the top and bottom
of
piston ring travel.
(m) Tappet loose in guide.
(n) Valve squeak.
Causes a light clatter, resulting generally from bearing reaction consequent
upon the presence of new and tight pistons
or over-tight gudgeon pin fits. It is
noticed at practically any speed, its intensity depending upon the degree of tightness.
In the case of new engines so-called " piston-slap" is nearly always due to
piston tightness, which will depart when the engine has become properly run in.
It is heard most distinctly when a new or refitted engine is pushed unduly. The
withdrawal of existing pistons is a course .to be greatly deplored, since it will be
obvious from the above remarks that the trouble will only be aggravated.
These
symptoms are most pronounced on new cars, because the pistons have not been
afforded a proper opportunity of bedding down.
It is interesting to remark here
that some
of the so-called " dud engines" owe a great deal of their unfortunate
reputation to the fact that they have been tampered with in their early life, and before
a reasonable opportunity of settling down has been afforded.
It is a definite fact
that every Morris engine
is carefully tested on the most up-to-date plant available,
and
then' j, no possible chance of an engine which is fundamentally faulty passing
through.
A sharp tap, either intermittent or constant at slow speeds,
but continuous under
load and particularly noticeable when picking up on top gear from a slow speed.
Can be cut
out absolutely by shorting the sparking plug of the cylinder concerned,
thus relieving explosion pressure. Usually not heard over
30 m.p.h., and worst
when engine
is cold. This noise is due, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, to
dry pistons. The truth of this statement can be proved by injecting oil into the
cylinder affected, when the tap will almost certainly vanish.
On new cars the best course of action is to encourage continued running with
the sump well over-filled. Also upper cylinder lubrication is recommended by
the introduction ofa little engine oil in the petrol. The oil supply from the main
bearings, which lubricates the pistons, will increase
as time goes on, and thus the
above expedients may eventually be dropped.
As in the case of piston tightness,
we deplore the stripping of new engines for blow-back before at least
1500 miles
have been covered, and cases of this kind cannot in future be treated
under the
guarantee. This ruling is made in the best interests of the future performance
of the car.
Heard mostly at fairly high speeds when pulling
hard-a low knock. Can be
relieved by shorting the nearest sparking plug, and upon release
of plug comes in
again with a thump. Bad main bearing knocks can be heard at slower speeds
under
load, and can also be felt on the steering column. Main bearing knocks can also
be heard when the engine
is raced up with the car at rest.
The noises described above must not be confused with the noise made by a loose
starter chain.
A slight rumbling, which can be heard mostly when the engine
is idling, and which
can be steadied by slight pressure on the clutch pedal. In extreme cases pressure on
the clutch pedal accentuates the trouble and causes quite a heavy knock at crankshaft
speed-the result of a crankshaft web fouling a bearing block. Liners for the
crankshaft front main bearing collars are available upon application to Service
(Parts) Department, or the
thrust collars can be white-metalled.
A clatter, varying in intensity according
to the amount of end play in existence.
Heard only when the engine
is idling, and can be cut out by the pressure ofa hammer
shaft against the fan drive pulley. Take particular care when adjusting to allow
the .003" end float which
is absolutely requisite.
Practically the same noise
as in the case of camshaft end play, but somewhat
accentuated. Can be
cut out by hammer shaft pressure. Usually the looseness
can be felt by rocking the pulley circumferentially with the engine at rest.
The symptoms are very like those shown under the heading of" Piston Slackness."
Usually, however, circumstances will suggest whether the clatter
is the result of
piston slackness or ridges in the cylinders. The latter may be anticipated on a
fairly old car which has been refitted, although the ridges should have been relieved
considerably by scraping
or lapping during the process of overhaul.
Sounds like a slack tappet, and can be located by pressing each tappet in turn,
with the engine running at a speed which causes sound to be most pronounced.
Naturally, all tappets should be checked for clearance before test takes place. May
be intermittent, due to the revolving action
of the tappet.
Intermittent
chirp-may become continuous if acute, at valve opening intervals.
Upper cylinder lubrication and squirting the stem with oil is recommended in such
cases.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14 /28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 1
Date of issue: July, 1928
The Engine and Gearbox Unit and Its Dismantling
INTRODUCTION
T
HE instructions given in the following pages are for the guidance of the repair man who proposes .to attempt
the task of overhauling the Morris engine and gearbox unit.
A thorough insight into the components and the methods of dismantling
them is given so as to simplify as
far as possible this task, and also to facilitate the ordering of any components which may need replacing.
For this purpose it has been found necessary to divide the instructions into thre~ sections.
Section One
.Instructions for dismantling various components with engine in posItion in the car, only those dismantling
operations being described
that can be carried out without the removal of the engine unit from the car.
Section Two
Instructions for removing the engine unit only, or both engine and gearbox together, from the car (see sheet 5).
Section Three
Instructions for dismantling unit completely; the engine unit not being assembled in the car, but mounted on
a stand in a similar manner to that shown in one
of the accompanying photographs (see sheet 10).
It will to some extent be necessary to overlap the various sections in order to give a complete description of certain
of these operations. When this occurs cross references will be reduced to a minimum
in order to obviate unnecessary
delay in carrying
out these operations.
The sequence of operations herein included is that which has been determined by practical experience to be the
best,
hut it is, of course, impossible to lay them out in an absolutely rigid sequence.
SECTION ONE
THE DISMANTLING OF THE ENGINE WHEN ASSEMBLED IN THE CAR
Index
Ref. No. 1.
The crankshaft and flywheel sub-assembly.
2.
The camshaft and camshaft gear.
3. Tbe gearbox unit.
4· . Sparking plugs.
"
5.
The magneto.
6.
The magneto drive gear and shaft.
7. The carburetter.
8. The fan sub-assembly.
" 9.
The radiator hose to cylinder head.
"
10. The radiator hose to the cylinder block water Range
"
ll. The cylinder head.
12.
The exhaust manifold.
13. The cylinder side plate.
14.
The valves and valve springs.
" "
15.
Fan pulley and spacer.
" " 17.
The camshaft front cover.
" " 18.
The starting handle hracket.
" " Hl.
The flywheel cover.
" " 20. Gearbox cover, hand brake and change speed levers.
" 21. Dynamotor cover and dynamotor chain.
" " 22.
The dynamotor.
" "
2:~.
Raise front end of car.
" 24.
The sump sub-assembly.
" " 25.
Dipper trough, oil valve and starting handle.
" " 26.
The oilpump and cylinder block oil pipe.
" " 27.
The connecting rods and pistons.
"
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO /3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P.AND 14 / 28 H.P.
I No. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 2
Date oJ issue.' November, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
SECTION ONE
THE DISMANTLING OF THE ENGINE WHEN ASSEMBLED IN THE CAR
W
HEN it becomes necessary to dismantle the engine and gearbox without removing the unit from the car,
it
must be remembered that it will be quite impossible to dismantle completely some of the components. The
purpose of this section is to point out the various components which cannot be dismantled under these cir-
cumstances and to give detailed instructions in the case of those dismantling operations which it
is possible to carry out.
The following parts cannot be dismantled without removing either the engine or gearbox units from car.
Ref. No.
1. The crankshaft and flywheel sub-assembly. To remove this sub-assembly without detaching
the engine from the gearbox is impossible. . .
The crankshaft bearing caps, however, can be removed each in turn as long as two of the caps are fixed in place
while
the other is removed. This may be resorted to when the crankshaft bearings require tightening up temporarily
(until such time
as the bearings can be overhauled thoroughly as shown in section three, ref. No. 29)..
Ref. No. 2.
The camshaft and camshaft gear. It is impossible to remove these components until the engine
has been removed from the car and detached from the gearbox.
For further details see section three, ref. No. sa.
The Valve Tappets
These depend on the camshaft being removed, and so the remarks above apply here. For further details see section
three, ref. No. 90. .
Ref. No. 3.
The gearbox unit. A certain amount of work may be done on this unit as it stands, such as
removal of the flywheel cover, gearbox cover sub-assembly, dynamotor chain cover, dynamotor chain and the dyna-
motor itself, and provided
that the rear axle is disconnected and run back out of the way a good deal of additional
work may be undertaken, such
as: Removal of thc ball housing, stripping the universal joint, removal of the rear
portion of the primary shaft with its gears, removal of the
gF.ar shifter shafts and shifter forks. Any further dismantling
must be prefaced by removal of the gearbox from the car.
For all details of these operations see section three.
The ·remainder of engine and gearbox components can be dismantled while the engine and gearbox are in position
in the car, as indicated in
the following operations.
First of all the bonnet must be removed, and instructions for this operation will be found in section two.
Note.-When working on the engine (especially if it is intended to dismantle any of its parts) it is a wise precaution
to cover the wings of the car, over the front wheels, with large sheets of brown paper or cloth. This will prevent the
paintworkbeing soiled.
Ref. No. 4.
Sparking plugs . The leads to the sparking plugs from the magneto should be checked to see
that they are connected up
in the correct order for firing (as will be found on the firing chart relating to the specific
magneto installed). See also section three, ref. No. 67.
The sparking plug can be unscrewed with a suitable box
spanner and removed, together with the copper-asbestos washer underneath it.
Note the condition
of the plugs; if dirty they must be cleaned The points should be examined for the width of
gap; this should be between .02 in. and .025 in. wide.
When ordering new plugs,
the maker, type, number and reach should be quoted, also the thread, which is 18 mm.
X ].5 mm. pitch.
Ref.
No. 5. The magneto. First disconnect the control rod at the universal joint; the magneto can then be
removed exactly as described in section three, ref. No. 67.
With some types of magnetos it will only be necessary to slip the magneto breaker cover and base from ofl its
spigot on the magneto, thus disconnecting the latter from the control rod or cable.
For the necessary adjustments of the magneto see the maker's instruction book or the Morris Manual covering
this type of magneto.
Ref. No. 6.
The magneto drive gear and shaft. To dismantle these components, first remove the magneto
as shown above, then remove the cylinder side plate as described in section three, ref. No. 73.
The magneto drive shaft and gear can now be removed exactly as described in section three, ref. No. 75.
Ref. No. 7.
The carburetter. Turn off the petrol tap from the tank. The throttle controls, slow running
gear and accelerator pedal should now be disconnected from the carburetter.
Unscrew the petrol pipe union
nut from the carburetter and proceed to remove the latter as described in section
three, ref. No. 66.
Ref. No.
S. The fan sub-assembly. Disconnect the fan belt and remove the fan sub-assembly exactly as
described in section one, reE. Nos. 69 and 70. If there is not sufficient room between the back of the radiator and the
front of the fan to enable this to be done, remove fan lever stud (1725) by unscrewing it from the cylinder head, noting
that it has a left-handed thread.
When reassembling be sure that this stud is absolutely firm in the cylinder head.
Ref. No. 9.
The radiator hose to cylinder head. First take care to drain the radiator by turning on the drain
tap in
the bottom tank.
Then, after completely slackening the hose clips, gently work the rubber hose off its joint on the cylinder head, at the
same time slipping it farther along the
joint pipe to the radiator. On no account should a screwdriver be inserted
between the hose and the
joint for the purpose of easing this operation, or the rubber may be split.
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. COj3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
I No. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 3
Date of issue: November, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 10. The radiator hose to the cylinder block water flange. See that the radiator has been drained
by turning on the drain tap in the bottom tank. The hose may now be worked off the joint in a similar way to that
previously described.
Usually, however,
as the hose is so short, some difficulty may be experienced in detaching it from the joint.
Should this occur, the best plan
is to disconnect the water flange itself from the cylinder block (see section three, ref.
No. 95), leaving the hose tight on the flange.
Ref. No. 11.
The cylinder head. First remove the magneto leads from the plugs and the radiator hose from
the cylinder head; also remove the fan sub-assembly.
The cylinder head can now be removed exactly as described
in section three, reL No. 7] .
Ref. No.
12. The exhaust manifold. This must first be detached from the exhaust pipe by unscrewing the
exhaust pipe nuts.
The exhaust manifold can then be removed from the cylinder block exactly as described in section
three, reL No. 72.
A word
of warning is necessary about the reassembling of the exhaust pipe. When bolting up the exhaust
pipe to the manifold, see that the lip on the end of the exhaust pipe
is square with the flange of the manifold and the
collar on the pipe.
If this is not carefully done (and the lip is not square), when the boits are tightened up the force
exerted will crack the lip of the exhaust pipe and probably break it right off on the side where it
is first gripped between
the flanges.
On later models a modified flange is fitted which reduces trouble from this source.
ReL No. 13.
The cylinder side plate. This can be removed exactly as described in section three, reL No. 73.
Ref. No. 14.
The valves and valve springs. The cylinder head and side plate must first of all be removed
as described previously.
The valves and springs can then be removed in a similar manner to that described in section three. If any diffi-
culty
is experienced owing to the exhaust pipe being in the way, it may be removed.
Ref. No. 15.
Fan pulley and spacer. Full instructions for this will be found in section three, ref. No. 88,
when it
is required to remove them.
Ref. No. 17.
The camshaft front cover. (Adjusting camshaft for end play.) For adjusting camshaft for
end play it
is necessary to remove the fan pulley and spacer first and then to remove the camshaft front cover as
described in section three, ref. No. 89. The remarks given there relative to end play in camshaft should be noted,
and the necessary adjustment made by adding
or taking away the brass liners as required.
Ref. No. 18.
The starting handle bracket. In the new model sumps the above bracket can be removed
from the front face as described in section three, reL No. 78, and then be further dismantled as described in section
three, ref. Nos. 79 and 80.
In the older models, the bracket is integral with the sump, and therefore the starting handle cannot be dismantled
until after the sump has been removed from the cylinder block.
Ref. No. 19.
The flywheel cover. It is necessary to remove the floorboards from the driver's seat before
the flywheel cover can be removed.
The purpose of the flywheel cover is to provide a means whereby the clutch
may be inspected, and through the opening provided the clutch springs can be assembled
or dismantled.
After having taken out the floorboards, remove the cover as described in section three, ref. Nos.
65 and 96.
Whenever this cover
is removed be careful that no object drops through the opening which may injure the
clutch beneath.
Ref. No. 20.
Gearbox cover, hand brake and change speed levers. First of all remove the floorboards
and disconnect the brake-rod from the arm.
The whole unit can then be removed as described in section three, ref. Nos. 101 to 104.
Ref. No. 21.
Dynamotor cover and dynamo tor chain. First of all remove the floorboards and proceed
as described in section three, ref. No. 105. This will not be an easy proposition owing to the limited space in which
it
is necessary to work.
The dynamotor chain can be tightened or slackened by rotating the dynamotor in the slots of its housing in the
gearbox, after slacking the bolts which hold it to the face. When readjusting the chain be particular that the degree
of tightness
is tested at various points in the chain, as wear is not always quite equal, and a chain adjusted to suit a
slack place will be too tight when moved round.
Ref. No.
22. The dynamotor. Before removing the dynamotor one of the leads to the battery or accumulator
must be disconnected and insulating tape wound round the end to prevent any accidental shorting across the battery.
This will prevent a fire which might otherwise occur should any petrol be about.
The leads going to the commutator of the dynamotor must next be disconnected.
It will now be safe to remove the dynamotor as described in section three, ref. Nos. 105 and 106.
Note.-After reassembling the dynamotor be very careful to replace the leads on the distributor and on the battery
terminals.
On no account must the engine be run with the charging switch on until these connections have been
made.
Continued

1930
MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No.
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
I No. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 4
Dat e of issue: November,
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 23. Raise front end of car. In order to carry out the remaining dismantling operations access to
the underneath
of the car is necessary. This is obtained without any trouble where a pit is available, over which
the car can be wheeled. Where no pit
is available the front end of the car must be raised.
First
of all the water should be drained from the radiator and the oil from the sump.
Slip a stout rope through the front spring shackles to form a sling and raise the front end of the car to a convenient
height by means
of a pulley block and chain. Wedge the"two back wheels with blocks of wood to prevent the car
from slipping away and support the front axle on two stout wooden trestles,
or in an emergency two empty casks
may be used.
Do not remove the sling, but let it just be relieved of the weight of the car, which should be on the
wooden trestles.
Ref. No. 24.
The sump sub-assembly. To prevent injury to the breather it is advisable to remove it from
the engine
as described in section three, ref. No. 76. When the sump has been drained and the end of the car raised
as shown, remove the footboards by the driver's seat and light up the underneath of the car from an electric hand lamp.
A naked light must never be used, owing to the danger
of igniting the petrol vapour.
The weathershields must first be removed from beneath the sump and gearbox, and the bolts which hold the
sump to the face of the gearbox should be unscrewed and removed.
One of these bolts may be screwed in again
in order to support the sump after the bolts holding it to the cylinder
block have been removed.
Two nuts which hold the sump at the front end of the engine are also left in place, and in this manner the sump
is held at three points until ready to be removed.
For convenience in unscrewing these two nuts the car is lowered
to the floor and the nuts then removed.
Then, holding the sump in order that it will not suddenly drop to the
floor, take out
the bolt which was left in the gearbox face; the sump can then be removed, taking care not to damage
the oilpump.
See also section three, ref. No. 77.
Ref. No. 25.
Dipper trough, oil valve and starting handle. After the sump has been removed as shown
above, these parts can be removed
as described in section three, ref. Nos. 79, 80, 81 and 82.
Ref. No. 26.
The oilpump and cylinder block oil pipe. The sump, cylinder side plate, and magneto gear
having been removed
as described previously, these parts (oilpump and oil pipe) can be removed exactly as described
in section three, ref. Nos. 87 and 94.
Ref. No. 27.
The connecting rods and pistons. After the sump has been removed the front end of the car
should be raised again if these parts are to be removed. When the car is securely propped
up the connecting rods
and pistons may be removed exactly as described in section three, ref. Nos. 84 and 85.
All that remains to be done now is to thoroughly inspect the crankshaft and camshaft bearings.
If these require
overhauling
it is advisable to remove the engine and overhaul these parts as shown in section three.
CO /3
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVI CE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MOD EL S: MORRI S 11 .9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P. INo.
OF SHEETS 23 ISHEET No. 5
Da te oj issue: No vember, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
SECTION TWO
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE REMOVAL OF ENGINE AND GEARBOX FROM THE CAR
Index
Ref. No. 28. Drain the radiator.
29. Drain the sump and gearbox.
" " 30. Remove the bonnet and floorboards.
" " 31.
Turn off the petrol.
" " 32. Disconnect the leads from the battery.
" " 33. Disconnect the carburetter controls.
" " 34. Disconnect the magneto controls.
" "
35.
Raise the front end of the car.
"
36.
Remove the oil tray clips and oil tray.
37. Remove bonnet side boards.
" " 38. Remove the exhaust pipe from manifold and from
tile silencer.
39. Remove the starting handle bracket where possible.
"
" 40. Remove the engine arm bolt nuts.
" " 41. Remove radiator bolts.
" " 42. Remove the water flange from cylinder block.
" " 43. Disconnect steering arm from steering box.
" " 44. Lower the front end of the car.
" " 45. Disconnect the radiator stay from the scuttle.
" " 46. Remove radiator hose from cylinder head.
" 47. Remove the radiator.
" " 48. Remove fan belt and fan sub-assembly.
" " 49. Remove the breather.
" " 50. Remove the sump.
" " 51. Remove steering gearbox bracket bolts from cylinder block.
" " 52. Remove steering box column unit.
" " 53.
Support the rear spring shackles.
" 54. Remove flywheel cover and clutch springs.
" 55. Remove the bolts holding gearbox to cylinder block.
" " 56.
Support the gearbox in position.
" 57. Remove the engine unit from car.
" " 58. Disconnect the ball housing cover.
" " 59. Disconnect the hand brake control rods.
" 60. Remove the gearbox cover unit.
" 61. Disconnect the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal hub.
" 62. Remove the engine and gearbox unit from car.
"
SECTION TWO
I
THE REMOVAL OF ENGINE AND GEARBOX UNIT FROM THE CAR
N this section are described two operations, the first being the removal of the engine unit only, leaving the gearbox
unit supported in the car frame; and the second being the removal of the engine and the gearbox unit 'together.
The following sequence is applicable to both these operations, excepting where the difference is pointed out
in the various paragraphs. .
Before commencing work it
is advisable to cover the wings and other exposed parts of the coachwork with brown
paper or a linen sheet. This will prevent them from being soiled.
Ref. No. 28.
Drain the radiator. The engine may be started and warmed up preliminary to draining, as the
warmth will dry
out the jacket completely. Engine must be stopped before actually beginning to drain the radiator.
Turn on the drain tap in the base of the radiator and drain the water into a 4i or 5 gallon container.
Ref. No. 29.
Drain the sump and gearbox. See section three, ref. No. 64.
Tins of sufficient capacity should be placed underneath to catch the oil. When full the sump contains 1 gallon
and the gearbox 1 quart.
Ref. No. 30.
Remove the bonnet and floorboards. While the radiator and sump are draining the following
operations can be carried out. Unscrew the hinge rod bracket at rear end
of hinge. .
Then, lifting the rear end of the bonnet, slide it bodily towards the windscreen until the front end is quite clear
of its housing in the radiator.
Help should be obtained to lift the bonnet off, otherwise the paint on the scuttle may be damaged.
The floorboards must be removed from the driver's seat. These, together with the bonnet, should be placed
out
of harm's way.
Continued.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION
No." COj3
lVloDELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P. I
No. OF SHEETS 23 ISHEET No. 6
Date of issue: November, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 31. Turn off the petrol. When working on the car the petrol should always be turned off, and on no
account should a naked light be used. Always, if possible, use an adequately protected electric hand lamp.
Ref. No. 32.
Disconnect the leads from the battery. This should always be done when it is required
to remove the gearbox with the engine.
The leads at the dynamotor end must be detached; and to prevent the danger arising of a " short" from the
battery causing a fire the positive lead from the battery should be detached and bound
with insulating tape.
When removing the engine only none of the leads need
be removed, as they may be left connected up to the dyna-
motor.
Note.-It is very important that these leads are replaced when reassembling the unit in the car, and on no
account must the engine be started up and run with
the" charging" switch on unless the battery leads are properly
connected.
Ref.
No . 33. Disconnect the carburetter controls. The controls which require disconnecting are the mixture
control rod, accelerator pedal rod and the slow-running control rod.
The accelerator pedal and bracket may be removed if necessary on the older type models.
The carburetter need not be removed, but the petrol pipe must be disconnected by unscrewing the union nut
at the base of the float-chamber.
Ref. No. 34.
Disconnect the magneto controls. IIi some types of magneto it will be necessary to uncouple
the control rod joint pin, while in other types the magneto contact breaker cover and base can be slipped off, with the
controls from the magneto.
See also section one, ref. No. 5.
.Ref. No. 35.
Raise the front end of the car. Having thoroughly drained the radiator and sump, the front
end
of the car should be raised as described in section one, ref. No. 23. See that the front axle is securely supported
by
the wooden trestles as a precaution against accidents.
Ref. No. 36.
Remove the oil tray clips and oil tray. These are fastened Ullderneath the sump and
gearbox.
The various nuts, bolts and spring clips can be located by the help of an electric lamp.
Ref. No. 37.
Remove bonnet side boards. These, on older models, are fastened by means of bolts to
the chassis and the nuts must be unscrewed from underneath the car. Some difficulty may be experienced when
unscrewing these owing to the heads of the bolts turning round in the top
of the side boards. Before removing side
boards examine their edges for additional screws holding the side wings to them. These are not standard,
but cases
have occurred where these screws have been
put in in old cars to stop the wings from rattling and they wi\[ have to
be removed before the side boards can be detached.
On later models metal bonnet side boacds are fitted which are easily removed when required by releasing.their
fixing bolts.
Having removed the bonnet side boards
put them away in a safe place.
Ref. No. 38.
Remove the exhaust pipe from manifold and from the silencer. The exhaust pipe can
be removed from the manifold as described in section one, ref. No. 12.
Then, by removing the retaining screw from the silencer, the exhaust pipe can be detached by sliding it out of
its housing in the silencer.
It can then be placed on the floor, clear of the engine and car.
Ref. No. 39.
Remove the starting handle bracket where possible. In the new models the engine can
be removed from the car without taking off the sump by detaching the starting handle bracket
as described in section
one, ref. No. 18.
Or alternatively-remove the bolts holding the sump to cylinder block and gearbox.
In the older models where the starting handle bracket is integral with the sump the engine cannot be removed
from
the chassis until the sump itself has been removed.
(a) All the joint bolts but one holding the sump to the gearbox should be removed, leaving that one in position
as described in section one, ref. No. 24, to retain the sump in position until a later operation.
(b) When the bolts in paragraph (a) have been removed, unscrew and remove all the bolts holding the sump to
the cylinder block,
but leave the two nuts at the front end in position for removal at a later stage.
Note.- Where the new model sump is fitted to the engine, and it is required to remove the engine only, leaving the
gearbox behind, it will only be necessary to remove the bolts given in paragraph
(a) above. In all cases where the old
model
sump is fitted all the bolts in paragraphs (a) and (b) will have to be removed.
Ref. No. 40.
Remove the engine arm bolt nuts. These nuts will be found underneath the car on brackets
fixed to
the chassis below the arms of the cylinder block. It will be necessary to use two spanners-one to hold the
head
of the bolt on the top of the arm to prevent it from rotating and the other to unscrew the nut underneath. To
do this conveniently help will be required.
The nuts should be removed and the bolts left in place to maintain the alignment of the engine until such time as
it is removed.
On later models fitted with resilient engine mountings the engine holding-down bolts should be left in position
on the engine bearer arms.
Ref. No. 41.
Remove radiator bolts. These are to be unscrewed from the radiator underneath the frame
cross member to which it
is bolted.
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO /3
MODELS : MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23 1 SHEET No. 7
Date of issue: Nove111 . ber, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 42. Remove the water flange from cylinder block. This can be done as described in section
one, ref. No. 74. Or, if possible, the hose itself may be slipped off the flange, which may then be left bolted to the
cylinder block.
Ref. No.
43. Disconnect steering arm from steering box. This is for the purpose of detaching the
steering gear.from the steering box, so
as to facilitate the removal of the engine, as explained in a later paragraph.
First remove the split pin which locks the nut on the steering arm pinching bolts, then remove the nut and with-
draw
the bolt. Now tap the arm off the steering box cross-shaft. (Thi s procedure is not necessary in the case of
later models equipped with Bishop cam steering gear attached to the frame
.)
Ref. No. 44. Lower the front end of the car. Remove the trestles which are placed under front axle and
lower
the car to the floor by mea;1S of the pulley block.
Ref. No. 45.
Disconnect the radiator stay or stays from the scuttle. This is done by unscrewing the
nut on the rear end
of the stay rod from its bracket on the scuttle.
Ref. No. 46.
Remove radiator hose from cylinder head. This can be done exactly as described in
section one, ref. No. 10. Care must be taken, as the radiator is no longer held firmly in place by bolts.
Ref. No. 47.
Remove the radiator. All connections and bolts which hold the radiator to the engine and
car frame having now been disconnected, the radiator can be lifted out of the frame.
Ref. No. 48.
Remove fan belt and fan sub-assembly. This can be done exactly as described in section
one, ref. No. 8.
Ref. No.
49. Remove the breather. This is to protect it in those cases where the sump must be removed.
In the new models where the sump is not removed the hreather can be left in place.
See section three, ref. No. 76.
Ref. No. 50.
Remove the sump. As already explained, this is not necessary in those models where the
starting handle bracket can he removed.
In the other case, having removed most
of the bolts previously, all that is now necessary to remove the sump
is to unscrew the two nuts at the front end and remove the bolt which was left in position on the gearbox face.
The sump will then easily be detached, care being taken not to damage the oilpump, which projects from under
the cylinder block. .
Ref. No. .51.
Remove steering gearbox - bracket bolts from cylinder block. These bolts are three in
number, and two of them must be unscrewed and removed, while the third bolt should only be partly unscrewed,
thus retaining the bracket
in position until the engine is ready for removal. (This is of course modified on later
models equipped with Bishop cam steering gear attached to
th e frame, in which case it is necessary to detach the
steering gearbox bracket from the frame.)
Ref. No. 52.
Remove steering box column unit. Unscrew the cap nut on top of the wheel and knock off
the wheel with a wooden block so
as not to damage the boss (or use a special steering wheel drawing tool), then
remove the clip which fastens the column to the facia board and, allowing for any horn wires which may be attached,
remove the column bodily from the car and lay aside safely.
Ref. No. 53.
Support the rear spring shackles. -This applies to cars prior to 1927 only.-When the engine
is removed from the chassis, the weight of the car, instead of being evenly distributed over both front and rear wheels,
will drop principally on to the rear springs.
This will disturb the alignment of engine and gearbox, and, especially
when engine only has been removed, will greatly hinder the reassembly of the engine and gearbox.
To prevent this difficulty, the rearmost shackles must be wedged securely with blocks of wood. This will then
prevent the rear
part of the body from falling down on to the springs. The sequence of operations up to the above
(reference No. 53)
is equally applicable to the removing of the engine only, or to the removing of the engine and gearbox
together.
WOOD PflCKING
The method of supportln~
rear SprlD~ sbackles.
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE IN
FORMATION No. CO /3
MODELS: MORRIS 11 .9 H. P. AND 14 / 28 H.P. INo.
OF SHEET;-23I SHEET No. 8
Date of issue: November, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
The sequence of operations must now be divided according to which unit is to be removed.
First of all take the case where the engine unit only is required to be removed from the car.
Ref. No. 54.
Remove flywheel cover and clutch springs. These can be removed exactly as described in
section one, ref. No. 19, and section three, ref. No. 76.
This enables the flywheel of the engine to be disconnected from the clutch plates in the gearbox.
Ref. No. 55.
Remove the bolts holding gearbox to cylinder block. Before the engine can be separated
from the gearbox these bolts must be removed.
The bolts holding gearbox to sump should have been removed previously (see ref. No. 39).
Ref. No. 56.
Support the gearbox in position. The rear shackles (on older models) having been firmly
wedged with wood packing, place a gearbox anchoring jig in
position-this can be done after the gearbox cover,
with its change speed lever, etc., has been removed. This is needful, as the jig is coupled to the studs which normally
hold the cover in place. Before actually placing the jig
in place put on a sheet-metal cover to exclude dirt. This jig
will
support the gearbox in such a manner that the car can be wheeled about. This jig consists of a length of
channel girder (such
as an old frame side member) 27t in. long, two studs and 12 in. of It in. X i in. angle iron.
Two t in. clearance holes are drilled 9 in. apart, then four holes are drilled in the angle iron, two being i in. diameter
at
4~· in. apart and two suitable for tapping t in. at 9 in. apart, all holes being equidistant from the centre. The
angle iron is suspended from the girder by the two -} in. studs 6 in. long, These studs are screwed for 3 in. and
the other end only enough to allow
of them being screwed into the tapped holes in the angle iron, being then welded
in place. These studs should be flush on the underside of the angle iron. The channel bar is to lie across the car
on the sides of the body or chassis if the body is removed.
The more securely the gearbox is held the easier it will be both to remove the engine unit from it and to replace
it again when reassembling the engine to the car.
Much more difficulty will be experienced in reassembling the clutch drive pins on the engine flywheel into the
corresponding holes in the clutch plates of the gearbox should the gearbox move out of alignment.
Ref. No. 57.
Remove the engine unit from car. Before actually beginning to lift the engine away it should
be ascertained that all smaller fittings are disconnected from the engine and that the motor is entirely clear for lifting.
These fittings
are: oilpipe to gauge-this should be carefully bent out of the way . Electric horn, if fitted to block or
in the way, and any other fitting which it may be needful to remove. If the car is of 1927 or later date the front wings
ma y require removal, as the front parts of the bonnet boards were formed in one piece with the wing valances on
some models, and
as these extensions overlap the front engine feet this removal becomes necessary.
Having completed all the preceding operations the engine can now 'be separated from the gearbox and removed
from the car in the following way.
Before attempting this, help should be obtained,
as it requires two men to do it easily.
First of all remove the engine feet bolt nuts. A strong rope must now be placed around the engine
as near to the
centre of gravity as possible, and made to sling on to the hook of a strong pulley block, which must be firmly attached
overhead (on travelling ways if possible).
In those engines where the sump has been removed the sling should come around the crankshaft centre bearing,
care being taken that
it does not pull on the oil pump.
When all has been firmly secured, pull the chain
of the pulley block until the sling is "taut." Now examine the
sling again to see that it
is clearing the oilpump, and then pull the chain of the pulley block until the engine is
clear of the engine brackets, but not enough to disturb the alignment of engine and gearbox.
The engine must now be carefully pulled forward, thus breaking the engine and gearbox joint, and then pulled still
more forward until the clutch drive pins are withdrawn from the clutch plates in the gearbox. Care must be taken
to use
as little force as possible so as not to strain the driving pins.
Now, by a combination of lifting and pulling, which
is difficult to describe but fairly obvious when carrying out
the operation, the engine unit is guided carefully under the scuttle and out of the car frame.
The engine can now be taken right off the car and lowered on to a suitable stand. Care must be taken not to lose
the drive gear spigot bearing, which should be found at the front end of the clutchshaft.
The only operation which remains to be described now is that of removing the engine andgearbox unit from the car.
The sequence of operations is as previously described up to paragraph ref. No. 53. From that point onwards
proceed
as follows.
Ref. No. 58.
Disconnect the ball housing cover. Unscrew and remove the bolts and nuts which hold the
cover to the universal joint ball housing; the ball housing cover will then slide along the torque tube to the rear.
The
gearbox is then free of the torque tube and ready to be removed as described in a later paragraph. Care should be
taken to preserve any brass shims that there may be between the ball housing and the retaining ring, as any mal-
adjustment will result either in slackness
or tightness in the socket.
In the latter case the effect will be to tear out the studs securing the ball socket to the gearbox case-a matter of
some seriousness.
On models fitted with the speedometer drive on the spherical housing this should of course be disconnected.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14/28 H.P.
I No. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 9
Date of issue: july, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 59. Disconnect the hand brake control rods. Remove the joint pin from the hand brake lever
arm and brake-rod after withdrawing its retaining split pin.
Ref. No. 60.
Remove the gearbox cover unit. This can be done exactly as described in section one,
ref. No. 20. and after removing it cover the parts thus exposed with a metal
or cardboard cover. (Unless the gearbox
cover
is removed the gearbox cannot be withdrawn from under the scuttle.)
Ref. No. 61.
Disconnect the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal hub. Before the gearbox can be with-
drawn from under the scuttle. the clutch pedal must also be dropped right down. To do this unscrew the clutch pedal
pressure stud nut and remove the pedal hub, as described in section three. ref. No. 112. In cars of IV27 and earlier
type the brake-rod attached to the brake pedal must be detached. as in these cars the brake pedal
is pivoted on the
gearbox and not on the frame
as in the later models.
Ref. No. 62.
Remove the engine and gearbox unit from car. Remove the engine bolts from their holes
in the engine arms and place the sling around the engine as described previously in ref. No. 57.
Then taking the weight of the unit on the sling by means of the pulley block, pull the engine forward until the
ball housing cover at rear
of gearbox is clear of the torque tube. .
The engine and gearbox unit can now be withdrawn from the car in a very similar manner to that described in
ref. No. 57. working it gently from underneath the scuttle.
Make certain
that the leads from the dynamotor have been disconnected as shown in ref. No. 32 before attempting
to withdraw the engine.
The engine and gearbox unit can now be removed from the car and lowered on to a convenient stand, care heing
taken not to damage the oilpump.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P . INo. OF
SHEETS 23
SHEET No. 10
Date of issue: july, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
SECTION THREE
INSTRUCTIONS FOR DISMANTLING ENGINE COMPLETELY.
ENGINE AND GEARBOX BEING ASSEMBLED TOGETHER, BUT NOT IN PLACE IN CAR
Index
Ref. No. 63.
Mount unit on stand.
64.
Drain oil from sump and gearbox. .
" " 65. Remove the gearbox unit (which will be further dismantled
as shown in the following instructions
" "
-see ref. No. 97). .
66. Remove the carburetter.
" " 67. Remove the magneto.
" " 68. Remove the magneto base plate.
" " 69. Remove the fan unit.
" " 70. Remove the component parts of
the fan unit.
" " 71. Remove the cylinder head.
" " 72. Remove the exhaust manifold.
"
" 73. Remove the cylinder side plate.
" " 74. Remove the valves and valve springs.
" 75. Remove the magneto drive shaft and gear.
" "
,', 76. Remove the breather cover and breather.
" 77. Remove the sump sub-assembly.
" " 78. Remove the starting handle bracket.
" " 79. Remove the starting handle and jaw.
"
" 80. Remove the starting shaft.
" " 81. Remove the dipper
trough .
" " 82. Remove the sump oil valve.
" " 83. Remove the
sump oil retaining felt.
" 84. Remove the connecting rod and piston sub-assembly.
" " 85. Remove the connecting rods, piston, gudgeon pin, and piston rings.
" 86. Remove the flywheel.
" 87. Remove the oilpump.
" 88. Remove fan pulley and spacer.
" " 89. Remove camshaft and camshaft gear.
" " 90. Remove tappets and tappet heads and locking nuts.
" " 91. Remove crankshaft bearing caps and bushes.
" " 92. Remove crankshaft and crankshaft gear.
" " 93. Remove crankshaft bearing blocks and bushes.
" " 94. Remove cylinder block oilpipe.
" 95. Remove water flange.
" 96. Cylinder block now completely stripped.
"
" 97.
Drain gearbox.
" 98.
Mount gearbox on stand.
" " 99. Remo
ve flywheel cover (see also ref. No. 65).
" 100. Remove universal joint ball housing.
"
" 101. Remove gearbox cover sub-assembly.
" 102. Remove change speed lever.
103. Remove hand brake lever.
104. Remove brake ratchet.
105. Remove dynamotor cover.
" 106. Remove dynamotor and chain.
"
" 107. Remove clutch hub.
" " 108. Remove clutch hub plate.
" " 109. Dismantle clutch hub plate and sleeve.
"
1l0.
Remove clutch
thrust race.
" 111. Remove clutch pedal and shaft sub-assembly.
" " 112. Remove clutch pedal and hub from shaft.
" " 113. Remove clutch pedal and shaft.
" " 114. Remove clutch fork and shaft.
" "
1I5.
Remove chain wheel and sleeve.
" " 116. Remove shifter shafts.
" 117. Remove interlock bar and ball.
" 118. Remove sliding gearshaft and universal joint sub-assembly.
119. Remove sliding gears.
" " 120. .Remove drive gear sub-assembly.
" " 121. Remove layshaft gear.
" " 122. Remove reverse idler gear.
" " 123. Dismantle universal joint.
" " 124. Dismantle sliding gearshaft.
" " 125. Dismantle drive gear.
" " 126. . Gearbox is now completely dismantled.
"

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P . AND 14/28 H.P . No. OF
SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 11
Date oJ iss~te: July, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
SECTION THREE
INSTRUCTIONS FOR DISMANTLING ENGINE COMPLETELY.
ENGINE AND GEARBOX BEING ASSEMBLED TOGETHER, BUT NOT IN PLACE IN CAR
Ref. No. 63. Mount unit on a stand. Engine and gearbox unit must be mounted on some sort of stand for
dismantling purposes. This can be a strong wooden frame or box, but if much work has to be done a strong cast
iron frame
is to be preferred, furnished with apparatus for turning the unit over. .
One
of the Works assembly stands may be used.
Ref. No. 64.
Drain oil from sump and gearbox. Thoroughly drain oil from the engine into tins or other
suitable receptacles in order to prevent oil dripping on to the garage floor.
This is done by removing the first three
plugs which are found underneath the engine. The front plug or filter gauze plug, part No. 1132, and its gasket, part
No. 1103.
The second plug or sump plug, 1215, and gasket, 1210. The third plug or first gearbox plug, 1215, and
gasket, 1216.
When thoroughly drained these plugs may be replaced. Do not remove the fourth plug at this stage.
Ref. No. 65.
Remove the gearbox unit. Before removing the various bolts holding the gearbox unit to the
engine the clutch springs
must be removed froID. the clutch driving pins, which are fixed to the flywheel in the engine
unit. So proceed as follows:
Using a i in. Whitworth hexagonal spanner or the brace provided (M.567-26-31) remove the flywheel cover bolts
(1122) and spring washers (1283).
Now remove theflywheel cover (1217), taking care not to injure the gasket (2370) which will be found underneath.
To preserve the gasket when removed, and all other gaskets for that matter, it is a good plan to hang them on the
garage wall. .
The clutch springs will be seen through the opening which is now uncovered, and these must be removed by means
of the special tool provided for that purpose.
They are removed one at a time, each succeeding spring being brought into line by turning the flywheel over
with the starting handle.
To use this tool (clutch spring compressor, 16958) place the slotted tube over the clutch spring in such a manner
that the retaining pin is free to be released from its pin, through the slot. Now anchor the other end of the tool against
the gearbox cover, close to the change speed lever, with the claw
under the change speed lever cover. Now press
down the toggle, when the clutch spring will
be compressed and held firm, while the clutch spring retainer pin (1177)
is removed (taking care not to drop it into the dutch chamber in the process).
Note.- That iflever type of clutch spring compressor is used the gearbox top sub-ass'embly will have to be removed
to allow
of its use.
The spring compressor is now released and the clutch spring cap (1176) and clutch spring (1780) removed from off
the clutch drive pins.
Also
it is advisable to replace the flywheel cover before any nutsand bolts, etc., have fallen into the clutch chamber.
Having removed all the clutch springs, proceed to unscrew and remove the two gearbox nuts (1127), the six gearbox
bolts (1125) and the spring washers (1284), using a 5/16 in. Whitworth hexagonal spanner
or the brace box spanner
(M.567-1 and 6). .
The gearbox L1nit can now be removed from the engine and sump, taking care not to strain on the clutch drive
pins in the flywheel
or to damage the small tail bearing of the drive gear shaft which will be found on the front end of
this shaft.
At this point the gearbox should be put aside after fitting a cardboard or sheet tin cover over the top face to prevent
the entrance
of anything which might injure the gearbox.
Ref. No. 66.
Remove the carburetter. No controls being connected to the carburetter, all that is necessary
is to remove the carburetter stud nuts (1127 and 1008) and the spring washers (1284), using a 5/16 in. hexagonal spanner.
The carburetter can now be withdrawn from the studs (1117). The carburetter gasket (1098) should also be taken
off and hung
up in a safe place.
See that the carburetter studs are tight
in the cylinder block.
Ref. No. 67.
Remove the magneto. Before removing the magneto, note to which cylinder the various leads
are attached, and if there are no indication marks on them, attach some identification mark to each lead, so that when
reassembling they may be replaced correctly. This is rather important, for unless these are replaced in the correct
order the timing
of the spark will be wrong. .
If changing over to a different make of magneto it will be necessary to refer to the firing diagram of that particular
make, since magnetos vary in this respect.
After removing the leads from the sparking plugs (which should be left in the cylinder head) release the magneto
strap screw (1891) and unscrew the two coupling nuts (1254) nearest to the engine and their spring washers (1281).
Use a 3/16 in. hexagonal spanner for this, cranking the engine over until the nuts are in a convenient position.
The magneto can now be removed, taking with it the flexible rubber coupling disc (1237) and the magneto adjusting
hub (1066).
The magneto adjusting hub can be removed from the magneto spindle by unscrewing the nut and withdrawing
the
hub with a special withdrawing tool, CA.I066/T3.
Continued

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23
SHEET No. 12
Date of issue: July, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 68. Remove the magneto base plate. Unscrew the base plate bolts (1068) with a 5/16 in. hexagonal
spanner or the brace (M.567-1 and 6).
The base plate (1067) together with the magneto st1'aP (2470) is now easily
moved.
The spring washers (1284) should not be lost when removing bolts.
Ref. No. 69.
Remove the fan unit. Uncouple and remove the fan belt. Using a 7/16 in. hexagonal spanner,
slacken off the
fan lever bolt (1059), which will be found quite close to the cylinder head. The fan unit can be removed
by sliding the clip off the stud in the cylinder head.
Ref. No. 70.
Remove component parts of fan unit. This operation need not be carried out at this stage
but can be done at any convenient time.
At the front of the fan will be found the cap screws (1200). Remove these with a 3/16 in. hexagonal spanner or
the brace spanner (M.567-26 and 30).
The fan cap (1909),jan gaskets (cap) (1900) and the fan blades (1883) may now
be removed from the
fan body.
Note that the gaskets are of paper and placed one on each side of the fan blades.
Holding the fan spindle
in lead vice jaws, unscrew the fan castle nut (1714), first removing the split pin (1288).
It must be noted that the fan castle nut has a left-hand thread and that it can be removed with a tin. Whitworth
hexagonal spanner or the brace spanner (M.567-26 and 31).
Now remove the fan retaining washer (1911) and the fan body (1908) by sliding them off the fan lever and spindle
(1907).
Inside the fan body will be found the
fan roller bearing (1881), the fan oil retaining bush (1910) and the fan spring
retaining wire (1912). .
Ref. No. 71.
Remove the cylinder head. First of all slacken off all the cylinder head nuts, working from
the centre bolts outwards.
It is important that each of these nuts be slackened a quarter or half a turn in the order
indicated before removing any
of them.
This is for the purpose of preventing internal strains being set up in the casting, as would be the case were one or
two nuts still screwed down tight although the others have been removed.
Note.- When tightening up the cylinder head nuts on reassembling the engine the same sequence should be
observed, viz. work from the centre outwards.
The order in which the
cylinder head holding
down nms should be
loosened and tightened
up.
After slacking off the cylinder head nuts (1187) with box spanner CA.I043/ Tl as described above, but before
completely removing any
of them, crank over the engine by turning the starting handle. If the sparking plugs have
been left in the cylinder head the resulting compression will probably be sufficient to break the joint between the cylinder
head and the cylinder block. Should the compression thus obtained not be sufficient to break the joint the cylinder
head may be prised off with the help of a tyre lever or other blunt instrument. Place one end
of the lever under the
lug projecting from a corner of the cylinder head.
Then, using the exhaust manifold as a fulcrum, press downwards
on the free end
of the tyre lever, which will break the joint on that corner. Repeat this operation on the other corner
of the cylinder head and the joint will be broken sufficiently to remove the head.
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How the tyre lever
should be applied In
order to break the
cylinder head Jolni ~
On no account should a screwdriver or other sharp instrument be driven between the joint, or the gasket will be
entirely" scrapped." . .
Having now broken the joint, the nuts can be removed and the cylinder head (1944) lifted off the studs, together
with the magneto lead clip and ring (1295 and 1296).
To remove fan lever stud (1725) unscrew left-handed. Before
removing gasket see
that it does not cover any of the water channels, either in the cylinder head or in the cylinder block,
.as any restriction in the size of these channels prevents the full
flow of cooling water and will tend to cause an over-
heated engine.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO j3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P . AND 14/28 H. P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 13
Date of issue: November, 1930
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Now withdraw the cylinder head gasket (l099) very carefully from the studs, great care being necessary to lift it
off evenly so as not to tear the holes in the gasket on the studs. Do not damage this gasket in any way, for unless
it is absolutely flat a good gastight
joint will be impossible to obtain when reassembling the cylinder head. After
having removed the gasket it should be hung upon the wall
of the garage to preserve it from injury.
In the cylinder head will be left the sparking plugs, which may now be removed with a box spanner if required.
A small hexagonal headed bolt will be seen on the top of the cylinder head.
This is the cylinder headplug (1603)
and need not be removed. Underneath the plug head is the copper asbestos washel' (1604).
This plug is provided for the purpose of testing the top dead centre of the piston to check the timing.
Note.-In the case of the 14/ 28 h.p. Morris-Oxford the cylinder head will be part No. 2490 and the cylinder head
gasket will be part No. 2427.
. Ref. No. 72.
Remove the exhaust manifold. Unscrew and remove the seven exhaust manifold nuts (l052)
with a 5/16 in. hexagonal spanner.
The manifold (l719) can now be lifted off the studs, taking care not to damage
the gaskets on the
joint faces.
Before removing the gaskets examine the holes in
them for alignment with the bores of the cylinder block and
manifold. No restriction in the size
of the bores is permissible, and any overlapping of the gasket should be remedied
before reassembling
the manifold. Any carbon deposits in the bores of the manifold, and those of the cylinder block,
must be removed also.
Obstructions such
as those outlined above will tend to cause an overheated engine.
Remove the end gaskets (1724) and centre gasket (1723) and examine
the surface to see that they are perfectly flat,
as this is essential if a good gastight joint is to be made. The gaskets can then be hung up out of harm's way.
The exhaust mamfold studs (1717) should be absolutely tight in the cylinder block and should not be removed.
On the exhaust pipe flange of the manifold will be found the exhaust pipe studs (11 19) and also the nuts (l605)
and
the spn'ng washers (l284).
Note.-In the case of the 14/ 28 h.p. Morris-Oxford the exhaust manifold will be part No. 2488.
Ref. No.
73. Remove the cylinder side plate. Unscrew and remove the nuts together with the fibre
71:ashers (1729) and the cylinder side plate (l 721) and then lift off its studs with the cylinder side plate gasket (1722).
Care
must be taken not to injure the gasket if a good oiltight joint is to be maintained.
The cylindel' side plate studs (l054) should be tight in the cylinder block, the fibre washers and the wing nuts
should be replaced on them for safety.
Note.-In the case of the 14/28 h.p. Morris-Oxford the cylinder side plate is part No. 24-59.
Ref. No. 74. Remove the valves and valve springs. The springs must first be compressed with a valve
spring compressor (1786j
T501). One end of this tool is pl aced under the vah e spring cap and the other end on the
top
of the valve to holdit on its seating whiJe the spring is compressed. Now remove the Tahe spring retainer (1035)
from its recess in the valve stem. .
The spring can then be released from the compressor, and the ~'ah'e, valve spring cap and the 'calve
spring removed.
It must be carefully noted that the valves are numbered 1 to 8 from the front end, and they must be replaced in
this
order when reassembling them.
Before placing valves
out of harm's way, examine ea ch one for condition of its head and its seating in the cylinder
block; also for the condition of the stem and its guide in the cylinder block.
Particular note should be taken
of carbon deposits on the exhaust vah·e stems and on their guides in the cylinder
block,
as these may be preventing the valves from bedding down on their seatings.
These deposits must be removed before attempting to grind or face the seatings.
The va!'ve guides are fixtures in the cylinder block and do not need to be removed.
I.n the case of replacements being required, special plant is nece ss ary to broach out the guides and to press new
ones m.
When reassembling the valve springs, special tools are provided (CA.1 032/Tl) which hold the spring compressed
ready for assembling on
the valves; or the same tool may be used as described in the dismantling operation.
Ref. No. 75.
Remove magneto drive shaft and gear. The magneto and cylinder side plate must have been
removed as described in the previous paragraphs (ref. No. 67 and ref. No. 73).
The split pin (1291), which will be seen in front of the magneto drive gear, must first be removed.
Now insert the pegs of the spanner CA.1061/T5 in the holes seen in the flange of the drive shaft. Hold this
firm
with one hand and remove the magneto drive shaft nut (1019) by means of box spanner CA.1019/Tl.
Then remove the washer (1020) from the back of this nut.
With a lead or raw hide hammer gently strike the screwed end of the drive shaft until it is free of the drive gear.
The magneto drive shaft (1061) and its key (lOOS), which is fixed in it, can then be withdrawn from the magneto end.
The magneto drive gear (1062) can now be removed from the valve cover side, taking care not to break the small
oil pipe (branching from
the larger one) which will be found quite close to this gear.
When reassembling this drive shaft and gear care
must be taken to ensure that it is a free spin fit in the bush;
at the same time there must be no shake endwise between the thrust faces of the drive shaft thrust washer and drive
shaft gear.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO j3
MODELS: MORRIS 11 .9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P.
No. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 14
Date 0J issue: July, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
. As long as there is no end play (end play here will cause an annoying knock when the engine is running) there
may be a small amount of backlash between the teeth of the drive gear and those of the camshaft gear meshing with it.
If the drive shaft thrust washer (1064) is so worn as to permit end play it must be replaced and fitted, either by
filing
or by facing with the hand facing tool CA.1063IT5, until the above fit is obtained.
Driven in the cylinder block bore will be found the magneto drive shaft bush (1063) which is of cast iron. Do not
remove this unless
it is so worn that the drive shaft is too free a fit in the bore.
When replacing the new bush care must be taken that the oil holes in the bush come in line with the oil holes
at the top
of its seating in the cylinder block.
If these holes are accidentally placed downwards so .that they are in line with the clearance holes in the bottom
of this seating in the cylinder block no oil will reach the inside of the bushing, and consequently the shaft will seize
up in its bearing through lack of oil.
The magneto drive shaft cover (1065) is a pressed steel cover, driven in the cylinder block at the magneto end of
the above bearing.
If oil is leAking here it may be that this cover has been inserted wrongly.
The slot on the inside edge of this cover should line up with the oil drain hole at the bottom of its housing in the
cylinder block.
If this is correctly placed and oil is still leaking the drain hole must be cleaned out and any obstruction
removed. .
Ref. No. 76.
Remove breather cover and breather. This removal is necessary to prevent these parts
from being
injured during the subsequent operations, and especially when turning the engine oyer after the sump is
removed.
The breather cover (1105) to which is fixed the CO'l.'er knob (1613), oil indicator spring (1733), oil indicator spring end
(1734) and the oil indicator blade (1735) can be lifted out of the breather.
Now unscrew
the breather (1104), to which is fixed the oil indicator tube (1107), using the special brace M .567-18 or
other suitable means, taking care not to damage the threads.
Ref. No. 77.
Remove the sump sub-assembly. To prevent the oil from dripping out of the sump during
this operation see
that it has been thoroughly drained, as explained in the previous paragraph (ref. No. 64).
At the front end of the sump, but on the top face of the cylinder block, will be seen two nuts with screwdriver slots
in
them (part No. 1730).
These must be removed, using a long-handled screwdriver or the brace M.567-15 and 26. (Do not overlook these
two
nuts, or the sump cannot be removed, although all the bolts on the sump may have been unscrewed.)
We must now, for convenience in reaching the other bolts, turn the engine completely OHr on its stand. Wr.ere
many engines have to be dismantled a special assembly stand, with means provided for easily
turning the engine over,
is essential, otherwise two
men will be required for this operation.
It will now be necessary to remove the sump if it has not already teen removed.
Having
turned the engine over, remove the fourteenjoint bolts (short) (]] 2]) and thejoint bolt (long) (] 120) ~ it h their
spring washe1'S (1284). A 5/16 in. hexagonal spanner may be used or the brace box ~panner M.567-] and 6.
Now lift off the sump sub-assembly (1870), taking care not to damage the oilpump which projects from the cylinder
block into the
sump.
The sump gasket (1102) will now be seen on the joint faces, but, as it is only a paper gasket, may not be intact.
Part may be found on the cylinder block and part on the sump face.
This is immaterial as long as the whole gasket is there, for on reassembling these parts an oiltight joint will
be secured by
brushing the faces with gold size or " Hermatite~ " .
Ref.
No. 78. Remove the starting handle bracket. On the older models this bracket is integral with the
sump and the refore cannot be detached.
On the new models, however, it may be removed when required by unscrewing one countersunk screw (1943) with
a screwdriver, and six hexagonal bolts (1095) with a 5/16 in. hexagonal spanner
or brace spanner M.567-1 and 6.
Ref. No. 79. Remove starting handle and jaw. At the rear end of the starting handle bracket will be seen
the starting shaft
jaw taper pin (1082). This must be removed so that the starting shaft jaw (1087) can be withdrawn
from
the shaft. The shaft jaw key (1005) can then be removed.
At the front end of the bracket remove the taper pin (1082) from the starting handle. The starting handle sub-
assembly, consisting of parts Nos. 1894, 1899, 1865 and ]866, can then be withdrawn from the shaft.
Ref.
No. 80. Remove starting shaft. Remove the small screw pin (1896) from the nose of the starting
handle bracket (1942).
The starting handle shaft (1893) will then slide out from the front end of the bracket, accompanied by the starting
handle bearing bush (1895), the catch pin (1898) and washer (1897) and the starting handle spring (1089).
It is important to note that the operations described in the preceding paragraphs (ref. Nos. 78 and 79) must be
carried out before the starting shaft can be removed.
Ref. No. 81.
Remove dipper trough. Having removed the sump from the engine, the oilpump dipper trough
(1109) is removed by unscrewing the four bolts (1122) with a brace spanner M.567-26 and 31. .
These bolts together with their spring washers (1283) should be replaced in their holes in the sump after removmg
the
trough.

MORRIS MOTORS t TD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. CO/3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H. P. AND 14/ 28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 15
Date of issue: July, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 82. Remove sump oil valve. This can be unscrewed complete with the peg spanner CB.I619/TI.
The split pin (1287) can then be removed, when the oil valve disc (1620) will be easily withdrawn from the oil valve
body (1619). When reassembling, note that the valve disc must be to the front to secure the correct action of the
valve.
Ref. No. 83.
Remove sump oil retaining felt. The sump oil retaining felt (2357) will be found assembled
in the semicircular groove around the crankshaft rear bearing.
This may be removed now, or left there until the
rear bearing cap
is to be removed.
Ref. No. 84.
Remove connecting rod piston sub-assembly. The various connecting rods and pistons
are all numbered according to the position of the cylinder bore in which they are assembled.
These should be Nos.
1,2,3 and 4 from the front end of the cylinder block. Care must be taken when reassembling to replace these sub-
assemblies in the same cylinder bores from which they were removed, otherwise trouble may occur through the parts
not bedding down properly on the crankshaft pins and in the cylinder bores.
First rotate the crankshaft so that two of the connecting rods are in a convenient position for lillscrewing the cap
bolts.
Now remove the cap bolt split pins (1291) and unscrew the
cap bolt nuts (1008), using box spanner CA.I045/Tl.
The connecting rod cap (1926) with the bush (1049) and the oil dipper (1925), fixed to it, can then be removed. The oil
dipper must be examined when reassembling, care being taken that it
is fixed firmly in place, with the oil pocket in the
correct position, in order that it may pick up oil from the dipper trough
as the crankshaft revolves.
(In the older patterns the oil dipper consists of a piece of sheet metal, which is removed when the cap bolts are
taken off.)
Having removed the caps, the plain steel liner (1914) and the forked steel liner (1913) must be removed, together
with the thin brass liners (1071).
These thin brass liners, or shims, are for adjusting the big-end bearing of the connecting rods, and so, before begin-
ning to remove the caps, test this bearing for fit.
The number of brass liners used on each bearing should then be
noted,
so that they may be replaced exactly in the position from which they were taken.
Having removed the above parts and placed them out
of the way, the piston and connecting rod can be withdrawn
from their cylinder bores by rotating the crankshaft to clear them.
Care must be taken when removing these parts that the piston rings are not damaged.
Having removed these, the caps, shims and nuts should be replaced on their bolts (1007) for safety.
Note.-In the case of the duraJumin connecting rods which are supplied on the 14/ 28 h.p. Morris-Oxford the
dipper is cast in one piece with the connecting rod cap, and the nuts are screwed on to the studs (2434) instead of
bolts, with washers (2438) underneath them.
The following are also different in number: the forked steel liner (2475), the plain steel liner (2476) and the brass
liners (2440).
Ref. No. 85. To strip connecting rod piston sub-assembly. It should be noted that this unit should be
handled very carefully when holding same for this operation. A special fixture (CB.1926/F509)
is supplied for holding
the piston in the vice; two pins, one on each jaw of the vice, grip the gudgeon pin at either end.
On no account should the piston (especially the aluminium piston) be itself gripped, or distortion will inevitably
occur.
The piston rings (lOll) should be removed by gently prising them open so as to insert three thin pieces of strip
steel at equal intervals between the inside
of the ring and the circumference of the piston. The rings will then easily
be withdrawn along these strips.
A careful look-out should be kept for rings which are too tight or too loose in the grooves.
In fitting new rings be sure that they do not bind in the grooves in the piston, and when in the cylinder bore
that there
is sufficient clearance in the slots.
The slot in the top ring may have not le ss than 0.004 in. clearance and that of the lower ring between 0.001 to
0.004 in.
Any carbon deposits should be removed from the piston and rings. .
Now, still holding piston in the fixture described above, unscrew the gudgeon pin clamp screw (1009) to release
the grip
of the small end of the connecting rod on the gudgeon pin.
Remove piston from the fixture and the gudgeon pin (1928) will easily be withdrawn from the piston (1947) and the
connecting rod (1926). . .
Note.- The above parts are fitted to the 11 .9 h.p. Morris-Cowley. In the case of the 14/ 28 h.p. Morris-Oxford
the procedure will be similar,
but the parts to be removed will have different part numbers as follows: gudgeon pin
(2478), piston (2485), connecting rod (2484) and piston ring (2429).
Ref. No. 86. Remove flywheel. The flywheel bolts (1017) must be removed from the rear end of the flywheel,
after first removing the locking wire (1024) which
is threaded through the holes in the bolt heads. The box spanner
CA.I017/T2 or the brace spanner M.567-1 and 5 w ill fit these bolts.
The-flywheel (1707) can then be removed, bringing with it the taper pins (1111) which are driven through the fly-
wheel into the flange of the crankshaft. The large end of this taper pin is in the flywheel.
Be careful not to damage the locating spigot when removing the flywheel and do not drop the flywheel on to the
clutch drive pins,
or the latter may be damaged.
The clutch driving pins (1174) are driven into the flywheel with the pins projecting to the rear. They may be driven
out
of the flywheel if required by striking the projecting pins with a lead hammer.
To ensure that the clutch corks do not wear away excessively examine the rear inside face of the flywheel where
the corks engage; this face
must be smooth without any ragged tool marks.
When reassembling flywheel care
must be taken that the rim of the wheel runs true on its spigot.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD.
SERVICE INFORMATION No. COj3
MODELS: MORRIS 11.9 H.P. AND 14 / 28 H.P.
INo. OF SHEETS 23 I SHEET No. 16
Date of issue: July, 1928
Engine Dismantling Instructions-continued
Ref. No. 81. Remove oilpump. Before removing the nuts holding the oilpump body to the centre bearing block,
disconnect thefront and rear oilpipe nuts (1963) from their unions (1962) to the front and rear bearing blocks, using a 5/16
in. hexagonal spanner.
Then disconnect connecting pipe nut (1961) from the tee piece (1956) on the front oil pipe
and unscrew the oil
cOllnecting pipe (1951) from the cylinder block oil pipe, which is in the front end of the cylinder block
joint face.
(A i in. hexagonal spanner is required for this nut.)
The oilpump stud nuts (1254) and spring washers (1282) can now be removed with a 3/16 in. hexagonal spanner
and the oilpump sub-assembly withdrawn from the studs (1014) in centre bearing block.
The oilpump plunger (1138) and the oilpump plunger spring (1131) can now be withdrawn from the oilpump body
(1135).
Inside the oilpump plunger will be found the oilpump seat (1139) and ball (1219). These need not be removed,
but may require cleaning in paraffin and should be carefully examined to make sure that the holes in the plunger have
not been burred up,
so reducing the passages and thus restricting the oil flow.
Inside the oilpump body will be found the oilpump seat (1140) and ball (1219).
The oilpipes, front and rear (1959 and 1958), together with unions and tee piece, are firmly fixed to the oilpump
body and should not be disconnected.
Ref. No. 88.
Remove fan pulley and spacer. Before removing the fan pulley and spacer as described in
this paragraph the camshaft should be examined for its fit
in the cylinder block.
The end play on the camshaft between the thrust face on the rear end of the camshaft front cover and the front
face of the camshaft gear should not be excessive. The limit allowable is between 0.002 and 0.003 ofan inch, and these
sizes of feeler gauges should be able to be inserted between these
thrust faces.
The fan pulley is huilt up of parts 1874, 1875 and 1876 and is assembled on the front end of the camshaft.
First of all remove the split pin (1291) and unscrew the fan pulley nut (1019) with box spanner CA.1019/T3, at
the same time inserting a bar through the camshaft gear
to prevent it turning while unscrewing the nut.
Now remove the fan pulley washer (1020) and the fan pulley should he easily withdrawn from the camshaft.
The fan pulley spaceI' (1022) can also be withdrawn from the camshaft front cover if the keyway in it is so pfaced
as to slide over the fan pulley key (1005) in the camshaft.
Ref. No. 89.
Remove the camshaft and camshaft gear. The running fit of the camshaft in the bearing
of the cylinder block must not be too tight.
The camshaft should be .003 in. smaller than its bearing at the front
and .002 in. smaller than its bearing at the rear end.
This clearance can be tested by inserting feeler gauges.
Also, before removing camshaft,look for the timing marks on the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear. Where these
mesh will be found punch marks, one mark being on the space
of the camshaft gear and the other on the tooth of the
crankshaft gear.
~ 'J
Proceeding now to the removal of the camshaft, first remove the camshaft rear cover screw (1122) (using a tin.
hexagonal spanner or brace spanner M.567-26 and 31) and their spring washers (1283). The camshaft rear cover
(1027) and the gasket (1096) can then be removed.
This cover should always be replaced after reassembling the camshaft, although it is often forgotten, as it is not
in a conspicuous position.
With the same spanner remove the camshaft front cover bolts (1122) and spring washers (1283).
The camshaft
front cover (1025) with the front cover liners (1026) can now he removed from the cylinder block.
It is important that
these liners are not damaged
or lost.
Withdraw the camshaft from the camshaft gear with the camshaft gear extractor CA.I023/T2; two hooks in the
extractor engage in the camshaft gear, and the screw is turned on to the end of the camshaft, thus pushing the shaft
out from the gear.
If this tool is not available it should be possible to remove the camshaft from the gear by lightly striking the
front end with a lead hammer.
On no account must a steel hammer be used, or the threads on the end of the camshaft will be ruined. It should
be noted here that great care must be observed if the camshaft
is to be removed with the oil pump in position, for
unless the head
of the oilpump plunger is held down while this operation is performed it may catch on the sides of
the cams and the oilpump body may possibly become broken.
The camshaft must be withdrawn to the rear sufficiently to enable the camshaft gear (1858) to be removed. When
this gear is removed the camshaft (1018) may be pulled forward and withdrawn from the cylinder block.
When reassembling this gear note that the small boss on it
must be assembled frontwards, and the timing marks
made to correspond with that on the crankshaft gear.
If an incorrect clearance was present between the camshaft
gear and its
thrust face on the cylinder block it may be adjusted by either adding to or removing from the shims behind
the flange at the front
of the camshaft front cover. These shims, or camshaft front cover liners (1026), are .002 in. in
thickness.
After the camshaft has been removed the tappets (1028) can be withdrawn from the guides by unscrewing and
removing the adjusting screw lock nuts (1030) and the adjusting screw (1029).
Two spanners (CA.1028/T1) are required
for this. It is essential that for quiet running the tappets be a good fit in their guides.
The clearance between the top of the valve tappet adjusting screw and the bottom end of the valve stem should be
adjusted when reassembling these parts.
Do
not cut this clearance down too small when" running-in" a new engine. After it has heen in use for some
time the valves will bed down on their seating and
thus reduce the clearance. (It is recommended to give .004 in.
clearance on the inlet valves and .006 in. on the exhaust valves.)
Continued