NI Climbing Frames Tractor and Trailer User manual

pg. 1
Assembly instructions for Commercial Tractor
and Trailer Climbing Frame:
This tractor climbing is designed for a flat garden, this can also fit for a slope,
but may require extra adjustment, please seek this from your onsite joiners.

pg. 2
Materials provided:
Please tick off accordingly:
4 x 9ft with straight top (90* x 90* posts) for main uprights
a
2 x 1250mm (90*90 posts) for bonnet uprights
6x 1280mm (90*90 posts) for horizontal supports
2x 1640mm posts (for the top)
3x 1460 (90*90 posts) 2 for the roof and 1 for the front horizontal
bonnet support
1 x set of reinforced steps + grab handles
1 x 1460mm x 1460mm base + 1x 1280mm x 1280mm painted base (to
your theme colour)
3 x 1280mm 2”x1 ½” timber
4 railings (3 open, 1x closed for front)
1 x 4ft rock wall
Commercial Wave slide
Accessories (Steering wheel and telescope)
Screws etc. (14 x 200mm index screws, 20 x 120mm screws,
65mm Decking Screws, Plastic Bolt covers, 60mm screws and washers
for tyres and 40mm screws for tyres
4x Tyre’s and (2x large and 2x small) – larger tyre’s for the back,
including 6x disc cover’s for tyres, (4 at the back)
6x panel’s (3x larger ones, 3x smaller ones(front section) (1280mm
wide)
1x exhaust for front platform
8x Round spot lights

pg. 3
Step1: Ground Preparation
Lay out the base, slide and the modules in the position that you intend the climbing frames
to be placed.

Allow for 2.0m clearances beyond the end of the slide and 1.5m clearances for the steps and
rockwall module.
Once you are happy that the layout is correct, set the modules a side
Mark out clearly all 4 notches of the base

pg. 4
If the climbing frame is on a level surface then dig 4 holes of diameter 12” and depth 10”. If
the surface is uneven; in this case you would have to compensate for the slope by making
some holes deeper than others.
Step2 : Base Preparation
On your posts, these will not be marked before, due to them being painted.
As you lay them on the ground: there should be a 2x holes on the ground side and on the
outside of the post. The holes which are furthest down the post should be facing outwards
These are then used to brace your horizontal post, and create a H-Frame
From the top of the vertical post to the top of the horizontal post this should be 1265mm.

pg. 5
Now place one of the 1280mm 90*90 post between the 2 larger posts
Insert two 200mm Index screws into each pre drilled hole ensuring they are screwed in tight
(2x screws go in the 1 hole)
Repeat the above steps for the 2nd H-frame

pg. 6
Step 3: Base assembly (requires heavy lifting, please use at least 2 people)
Lift both ‘H’-frames into the holes that have been dug out of the ground
Hold the H- Frames upright and support these using the 1280mm 3”x1 1/2” timber.
Step 4: Fixing your base
Lift the base and place it on top of the 90*90 *1280mm posts
Secure base using the 120mm screws provided; they are to be screwed directly into the base
onto the 4”x4” horizontal posts, through the 3”x1 1/2” timber base supports.
Level the base (with spirit level, by digging the holes deeper if needed or packing the posts
up.)
ENSURE BASE HEIGHT IS: 1.2m high. If your ground runs at a slope, set your slide up
to ensure that it won’t be too steep or shallow. The rockwall and steps have been
left a bit longer to accommodate slight inclines.
Step 5: Adding you extra posts:
Please add the 90*90 posts at 1280mm long, this will be at the open sides (ensuring all posts
are the same height all the way around, and running in flush to each other.)
Please fix the 90*90 *1280 posts, with 2x 200mm index screws in the one hole

pg. 7
Step 6: Side-rails assembly
There are 3 open (2 offset, for your rockwall and steps) and 1 closed rail. The open ones are
for the steps, rockwall and slide and the closed ones are for the front. They should fit tightly
into place between the upright posts and on the base. (If you have purchased a trailer, your
slide will be going onto the back of the trailer, and you will have two closed railings for the
back and front of the main tractor frame.)
The ‘double’ timbers on the side-rails should be on top and the single timber should be at
the bottom
Secure the bottom rail to the base using decking screws (screwing up from underneath the
base into the bottom of the railing)

pg. 8
Using the 120mm screws, screw through the upright post so as to tighten the top railing to
the post
Repeat for all the side-rails
KEEP THE OFFSET OPENINGS TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE TOWER. This will allow your back
tyres to fit.
Step 7: Adding sides of Tractor
You will have received six painted panels. Three at approx. 1040mm high and three at
950mm high. The three taller panels are for the main tractor tower and the three shorter are
for the bonnet.
Start by adding the two sides on the main tower, these will be 1280mm wide and closed.
Fix this to the upright post using 60mm decking screws.
Repeat this step on the rear, this panel will have an opening underneath. If you ensure that
the platform height is 1.2m this will mean your sides should fit in perfectly. (provided your
ground is flat). If your ground runs at a slope then these panels will need some adjustment
to scribe to your ground level.

pg. 9
Step 8: Adding Tractor Hood Structure
Firstly if you set down your 1280mm posts out the front of the tractor this will give you the
position of the two holes you need to dig for the 1250mm uprights to form the front of the
bonnet. Please dig the upright posts 230mm into the ground.
Fix the 1460mm posts onto the end of the 1280mm 90*90 posts, as per the drawing below.
Fit 2x 90*90 –1280mm posts underneath the front/ closed railing side of the tower,
underneath the existing posts. Pre –drill a 32mm hole on the back of your front two posts,
just under the horizontal posts.
Screw 2x 200mm index screws in each hole.
The second hood tower will be 90mm lower than the main tower.
Step 8: Finishing the structure and adding the base

pg. 10
Add 3x 1280 x 2” x 1.5” with decking screws onto the inside of 90*90 horizontal posts to
hold the base.
Keep the top of your 2”x 1.5” down 35mm from the top of your 90*90 horizontal posts
Lift the base on top of this new structure and fix the decking screws onto the sides, with 2
screws in each panel on the edges
The overhanging 3” x 1.5” from the bottom of the base will be to the tower side of the
tractor, and will be screwed up into the horizontal post of the main tower.
Step 9: Finishing the structure and adding the base
3 panels underneath, these are lower in size and will fit the same your previous step (7)
‘Fix this to the upright post using 60mm decking screws, use 2 boards in each panel.
Repeat this step on the front; this panel will have an opening underneath. If you ensure that
this is 1.2 this will mean your sides should fit in perfectly.’
Step 10: Adding the Modules:
Attaching commercial slide:

pg. 11
Please note the slide will need to be to the edge of your railings. You may need
to add baton’s on their side to ensure that the slide is tight to the railings.
There are L- Brackets on the underside of the slide. Please mark the hole and
drill a 12mm holes. You need to fix this downwards. And then drill a 32mm
hole on the bottom / underside. This will then allow you to fix the bolts from
the top of the decking down through the hole.
Please add you M10 bolts and then cut to size, use washers and tightening nuts
and put the cap over this.
Ensure the end of the slide is concreted into the ground. It should be concreted
50mm minimum into the ground.

pg. 12
Attaching Steps and Rockwall
The steps might have to be cut or dug into place (depending on the slope of your surface)
and then secured using decking screws.
Grab handles are then placed on the top of the steps

pg. 13
The rock wall is also to be cut or dug into place (typically the rock wall and steps are slightly
longer than you require allowing for slopes etc) Again this is secured by putting 2x 60mm
screws into the top of each board.
Please note handles or a wooden grasp part of the wood will be needed to help children
grasp and get up to the climbing frame. (this can be made on site or extra handles can be
requested)
Step 11: Adding the Tyres
The tyres will be fixed through the rubber wall using washers and screws provided, please
insure that this is fixed into the corners where upright 90*90 posts are present
Ensure that it least 4x screws are in each tyre
There should be slightly larger tyres on the rear –use 60mm screws with 25mm washers
provided, then fit the 40mm screws fixing the disc onto the tyre
Please repeat this step for all of the tyres

pg. 14
On the back tyres, there needs to be a second covering disc on the inside
On the front of the tyre make sure this is no wider than 150mm past the hood of the tractor
For commercial use please ensure that a gap of: nothing smaller than 25mm and nothing between than
89mm- 230mm exists to create any entrapments.
Step 12: Add the telescope, steering wheel, exhaust and wooden lights
Finally place the telescope and steering wheel in a position that suits your garden. Using
fixings and instruction’s provided
Fix the exhaust in your desired position on the front of the tractor using 2x 120mm index
screws underneath, up through the tractor bonnet base.
Fix the wooden lights using 100mm screws through the centre of the ring.

pg. 15

pg. 16
Step 13: Concreting structure
Using postcrete and following the manufacturers instruction concrete all 6 posts into the
ground
Once dry you can continue.

pg. 17
Forming the trailer (if upgraded)
Step 1:
To form the trailer, follow steps 1-7 above, as the frame of the tractor is done in the same way.
Ensure to leave a space of at least 1.5m between the back of the rear tractor tyres, and where the
bottom of your steps will finish. The two open railings will go to the front and back sides of the
trailer tower, as will the remaining 1460mm 4”x4” posts to form the roof.
Step 2: Side panels
Fit the two (usually black) side panels under the sides of the trailer tower. Like before, if your
ground is running off then they may need some adjustment.

pg. 18
To form the main side panels, you can start by screwing the four 2260mm sheets together.
To secure these you will need to fit 5no 3”x1 ½” boards at 1200mm equally spaced in
between the two panels. Ensure you pre-drill and counter sink the screws as to avoid
damaging the paint work. Once you have attached the 3”x1 ½” to the first side panel, lift it
and screw it into position, screwing into the posts at both sides, and along the base where
they meet the 3”x1 ½”. Keep the top of the front edge of the panel flush to the top of the
front upright posts, and come down about 300mm on the back posts to create your angle.
There should be the same overhang from the back and front of the trailer.
Once the first panels are screwed on to the frame, you can now fit the outside panels,
ensuring they line up exactly with the inside panels.
Next stage is to fit the 3”x3” frame around the panels. This can be screwed together before
it’s lifted into place. Use the 100mm screws to secure the 3”x3” posts together, then the
120mm screws to fix into the frame posts as well as the 3”x1 ½” supports between the two
panels.

pg. 19
Step 3: Finishing the trailer
For fitting the steps and slide etc follow steps 10-13 above.
The final stage is to put on the accessories, give everything good sand down to avoid the children
getting splinters from any cut or rough edges, and also check for any screws sticking out that may need
taken back in slightly.
We hope you enjoyed the challenge of the build and hope the children get years of enjoyment out of
their new frame,
Team NICF.