Niles CM6HDFX User manual

INSTALLATION GUIDE
CM6HDFX
FOR USE IN MULTI-CHANNEL MUSIC OR HOME THEATER SYSTEMS
HIGH DEFINITION, SIDE/REAR CHANNEL EFFECTS, CEILING MOUNTED LOUDSPEAKER

NEW CONSTRUCTION
CONGRATULATIONS!
Thank you for choosing CM6HDfx High-Definition, Side/Rear Channel Effects, Ceiling
Mounted Loudspeaker from Niles. With proper installation and operation, you should enjoy
years of trouble-free use.
Niles manufactures the industry’s most complete line of custom installation components and
accessories for audio/video systems. To see the complete Niles product assortment, visit us on
the Internet at: www.nilesaudio.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction 1
Features and Benefits 1
Installation Considerations 3
Speaker Placement 5
Installation Fundamentals 9
New Construction: Installation of Brackets, Frames, and Grilles 14
Existing Construction: Installation of Brackets, Frames, and Grilles 16
Finishing the Installation 17
Operation 19
Specifications 19
Limited Warranty 20
Warranty Registration Card 21

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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
INTRODUCTION
Niles CM6HDfx High-Definition, Side/Rear Channel Effects, Ceiling Mounted Loudspeakers are
expressly designed for superior sonic quality. They employ advanced technology components that
extract the subtle nuances in recorded music or the thunderous action sound in a movie. They are
perfect for applications where in-wall or on-wall surround speakers are not practical. Moreover,
these ceiling mount surround speakers are designed for applications where quality of sound is the
most important consideration.
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
INJECTION-MOLDED TCC WOOFER WITH
BUTYL-RUBBER SURROUND
The CM6HDfx features a newly-developed cone material that combines injection-molded polypro-
pylene with talc, carbon, and ceramic (TCC) stiffening agents. As a result, the cone offers extreme
stiffness and light weight for accurate, dynamic response. Additionally, the woofer employs a
vented pole-piece for increased bass linearity and a butyl-rubber surround for improved midrange
damping and clarity, as well as moisture resistance.
DUAL 3/4” TRI-LAMINATE TETERON TWEETER DOMES
WITH FLUID-COOLING AND ULTRA-WIDE DISPERSION
FOR CLEAR AND DETAILED HIGH FREQUENCIES
Each tweeter’s tri-laminate design consists of an inner textile layer which forms the dome, a high
damping layer to kill unwanted resonances, and an outside layer of urethane to add stiffness and
prevent breakup modes. The result is a transparently clear, sweet, natural-sounding tweeter, which
still maintains extended frequency response. The 20°-pivot angle also ensures optimum, detailed
high-frequency coverage.
DIRECT/DIFFUSE SETTING
The DIRECT/DIFFUSE switch allows the installer to select different sound-field patterns for different
applications. In the DIFFUSE mode, the tweeters are “out of phase,” producing a very natural-
sounding diffuse surround effect. In the DIRECT mode, the tweeters are “in phase,” producing a
more present (“in-your-face”) surround effect.
NOTE: BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT SPEAKERS MUST BE ORIENTED WITH THE “OUT-OF-PHASE”
TWEETER (IDENTIFIED BY A GRAY DOT) SO THEY POINT IN THE SAME DIRECTION, RELATIVE TO
THE LISTENER. SEE PLACEMENT DIAGRAMS STARTING ON PAGE 6 FOR RECOMMENDED PLACEMENTS
AND SETTINGS.
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2
INSTALLER-SELECTABLE ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING
Using the baffle-mounted TWEETER LEVEL control, the installer can de-emphasize the treble response
by 3 dB after speaker installation to accommodate reflective surfaces and corner loading.
MICROPERF™ ALUMINUM GRILLES
Niles’ exclusive MicroPerf™ grille construction provides an exceptionally tight hole pattern for
acoustic transparency at all audio frequencies and enables the speaker elements to remain invisible.
MicroPerf grilles can also be painted to blend seamlessly with the surrounding decor. Additionally, the
aluminum grille material will never rust or discolor over time.
EASY INSTALLATION
Each CM6HDfx speaker employs a bracketless mounting system for easy installation in an existing
ceiling. The installer simply cuts a hole in the mounting surface, removes the speaker grille, connects
the wires, and places the unit in the opening. The installation is completed by tightening four mounting
“dogs” (via front panel screws) to clamp the speaker frame to the drywall.
HOLE-SAVING BRACKET
Available as an optional accessory, a CM6 Series New-Construction Bracket can be installed as a
“hole-saver” for each speaker before the drywall goes up. Later, the drywall contractor cuts
speaker holes after drywall installation, thereby reducing installation time and minimizing the
chance for lost wires.
OPTIONAL FIRE-RATED METAL ENCLOSURE
Optimizes performance and ensures code compliance.
NILES’ HD HIGH-DEFINITION VOICE MATCHING
Ensures compatibility with other Niles HD High-Definition in-wall, on-wall, and ceiling mount models to
accommodate a wide range of system designs.
DOLBY® DIGITAL READY
The CM6HDfx is specifically designed for Home Theater Sound. This model exceeds the specifications
set forth by Dolby Laboratories for the accurate reproduction of Dolby Digital-Encoded Sources.

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INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
Figure 1. Mounting a CM6HDfx
loudspeaker into a ceiling.
New Construction Bracket
serves as a “hole saver” when
drywall has not been applied.
It is not necessary when
retrofitting to existing ceilings. Knockout wire tie allows the
wire to be secured to the bracket
throughout the new construction
process. It knocks out cleanly
when the speaker is installed.
New construction wings
instantly snap into the
bracket without screws.
Wings are scored for
easy size trimming.
Brackets and wings
attach to the ceiling joists
with nails or screws.
Dogs swivel 90°,
then clamp the
speaker frame to
the drywall.
Frames are molded
with a slight texture
to assure good paint
adhesion.
Mounting screws tighten
the “dogs,” clamping the
speaker to the drywall.
Rust-proof aluminum
grilles make the CM
Series perfect for moist
environments.
3

TOOLS AND PRECAUTIONS
We recommend using the following tools to install a CM6HDfx loudspeaker:
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit
(for drilling through studs)
• Keyhole or drywall saw
• Stiff wire, fish tape, or glow rods (for routing cables)
• Phillips screwdriver set
• Cable ties
• Pencil
• Level
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:
• Turn off all system power before making any connections.
• Always wear protective eyewear when using tools.
• Make sure hands are clean before installation.
• Wear gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER POWER
For satisfactory performance, we recommend using a surround amplifier with a power rating of
10 to 125 watts. Curiously, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers, but rather by
small amplifiers. If your system is playing loud music, a small amplifier will run out of power very
quickly and can create damaging “clipping” distortions. A more powerful amplifier will play at the
same volume without distorting. See OPERATION on page 19 for more information about amplifier
clipping distortion.
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LOUDSPEAKER WIRE
Use 2-conductor loudspeaker wire when connecting loudspeakers to your receiver or amplifier. For
most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet,
we recommend 14-gauge wire. The spring-loaded terminals of the CM6HDfx will accommodate up
to 12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated via pin connectors.
When running wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (CL-2 or CL-3) to protect the
wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free installation,
low-voltage wire such as speaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code
and any applicable provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct installa-
tion techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/video installer,
building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.
INSULATION BEHIND THE SPEAKER
For best performance from your speakers, lay a batten of fiberglass insulation (e.g., R-19 unfaced
insulation) on top of the speaker. Try to keep the same amount of insulation for each speaker,
particularly in the same room, for consistent bass response.
SPEAKER PLACEMENT
NOTE: THE NILES CM6HDFX LOUDSPEAKER IS DESIGNED FOR USE IN SIDE- OR REAR-CHANNEL
APPLICATIONS ONLY. FOR FRONT-OR CENTER-CHANNEL APPLICATIONS, WE RECOMMEND USING A
NILES HDLCR OR HDLCR BX LOUDSPEAKER.
PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS
In home theater, the goal is to reproduce the experience of a great movie theater in your home.
The biggest difference between the two venues is the use of a rear- or surround-speaker array in
a commercial theater. Here, it is not uncommon to see 20 or 30 speakers placed around theater
walls. This huge array of speakers assures the audience will feel completely surrounded by the
ambient soundtrack of the movie.
Filmmakers carefully use the “surround” soundtrack to envelope viewers in the sound environment
on screen. They will place background music, rain sounds, traffic noise, etc. on the “surround”
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TECH TIP
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is
physically larger than 14 AWG.

PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS
(CONTINUED)
soundtrack to create desired effects. However, in a home with a single pair of front speakers, this
surround effect will be lost, and jungle sounds may actually sound like they are emanating “from the
middle of your head,” just like headphones!
A single pair of CM6HDfx Loudspeakers, properly placed, can create a very convincing simulation of
an array of surround speakers. Here are some recommended placement tips:
• Place the surround speakers near a hard reflecting surface, as shown in Figure 2.
The reflections will help one pair of speakers to sound like several. If possible, try
placing them near a corner (so that the adjoining walls will act as a powerful
reflector) to create even more reflections, as shown in Figures 3 and 4.
Figure 2. CM6HDfx
loudspeakers placed
near a back wall of a
home theater room.
Figure 3. CM6HDfx loudspeakers
placed near back corner walls of a
home theater room.
Figure 4. CM6HDfx
loudspeakers placed near back
corner walls of a home theater
room with an L-shaped sofa.
6
Place CM6HDfx so
tweeters fire across
back of room.
Place CM6HDfx so
tweeters fire across
back of room.
Figure 2
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
toward walls.
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
toward walls.
Figure 3
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
toward walls.
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
toward walls.
Figure 4

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• If you place the surround speakers farther away from the listener, both the reflected
and the direct sound will dissipate, requiring even more power from the surround-
sound channels. If your sound system uses a small 5- or 10-watt surround amplifier for
the rear speakers, be sure to place the speakers within 5 to 8 feet of the
listening location.
• If you are using a larger 25- to 50-watt surround amplifier, you can mount the speakers
10 to 15 feet away from the listening location and still achieve reasonably high volume
levels. In large or unusually-shaped rooms, this might be the only way to achieve a
good effect.
• If you like listening to music in surround modes (which emulate concert hall acoustics),
consider using more than two surround speakers to provide an extraordinary effect.
With Niles CM6HDfx loudspeakers, it is easy to add another pair without affecting the
decor of the room.
NOTE: FOR THIS APPLICATION, YOU WILL NEED TO USE A MORE POWERFUL AMPLIFIER THAN
THE ONE BUILT INTO A TYPICAL SURROUND-SOUND RECEIVER OR AMPLIFIER. NILES MAKES
A NUMBER OF SYSTEMS INTEGRATION AMPLIFIERS WITH PROPRIETARY FEATURES THAT
MAKE THEM UNIQUELY SUITED TO ENHANCE YOUR EXISTING SURROUND-SOUND SYSTEM.
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL NILES DEALER FOR MORE INFORMATION.
• If your home theater system is capable of reproducing Dolby EX surround sound,
consider using a second pair of CM6HDfx speakers (on the side walls) for an additional
rear surround effect, as shown in Figure 5.
Figure 5. Two pairs of CM6HDfx
loudspeakers reproduce Dolby EX
surround sound in a home theater room
using only DIFFUSE settings.
7
Place CM6HDfx so
tweeters fire across
back of room.
Place CM6HDfx so
tweeters fire across
back of room.
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
along side wall.
Place CM6HDfx
so tweeters fire
along side wall.

THE BOUNDARY EFFECT
Placing a speaker in a corner can powerfully affect the way a listener perceives bass response.
Known as the boundary effect, placing speakers close to a wall/ceiling boundary or near a corner-
wall boundary will emphasize certain bass frequencies while canceling others. This effect can
make the speaker sound excessively boomy and inaccurate to some listeners, while to others it
just seems like more bass sound.
As a good rule-of-thumb, if you like listening to your current pair of speakers with the bass turned
up, you’ll enjoy corner placement. However, if you listen with the tone controls at neutral, try keep-
ing the speakers at least 2 or 3 feet from the boundaries of the room.
USING THE DIRECT RADIATING/DIFFUSE FIELD
SELECTOR SWITCH
If the listener prefers a more diffuse sound field, set the DIRECT/DIFFUSE switch to the DIFFUSE
position, as shown in Figure 6. The DIFFUSE setting provides less localization of the sound and
a more spacious feel. Make sure to align the speakers so the “out-of-phase” tweeters (identified
by a gray dot) are oriented in the same direction, relative to the listener. If desired, experiment with
tweeter orientation to give the most pleasant sound for your particular installation.
If the listener prefers a more direct sound field, set the DIRECT/DIFFUSE switch to the DIRECT
position, as shown in Figure 7. The DIRECT setting provides more localization of sound and
creates a more dramatic surround effect. If desired, experiment with tweeter orientation to give
the most pleasant sound for your particular installation.
Figure 6. The
CM6HDfx DIRECT/
DIFFUSE switch is set
to DIFFUSE for a more
spacious sound field.
Figure 7. The
CM6HDfx DIRECT/
DIFFUSE switch is set
to DIRECT for a more
dramatic sound field.
8
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT

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USING THE TWEETER LEVEL CONTROL
After installation, the installer can de-emphasize the treble response by 3 dB to accommodate
reflective surfaces and corner loading by setting the baffle-mounted TWEETER LEVEL control to
–3 dB, as shown in Figure 8.
INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS
RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION
IMPORTANT: IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS ABOUT WHETHER YOU ARE CAPABLE OF INSTALLING A NILES
CEILING MOUNT LOUDSPEAKER, PLEASE CONSULT A NILES DEALER OR PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER.
THEY HAVE SPECIAL TOOLS, TECHNIQUES, AND EXPERIENCE TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE JOB
POSSIBLE. THE INSTALLER CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH AN ESTIMATE BEFORE ANY WORK IS DONE.
OBSERVE SAFETY FIRST!
• Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and head protection gear when drilling or
cutting holes.
• Avoid drilling near nails – they ruin bits and can cause injury.
• Be careful using “hole-hogs” and other powerful electric drills. The torque of this
drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can break the wrist of a strong man.
Figure 8. The CM6HDfx TWEETER LEVEL
control has two response settings. Moreover, by
using the TWEETER LEVEL control in conjunction
with the DIRECT/DIFFUSE switch, the surround
sound field can be tailored in a variety of ways.
9
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT
-3dB 0dB
TWEETER
LEVEL
DIFFUSE DIRECT

SCHEDULING AND PREPARATION
Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after the electrical wiring is finished. That way you can avoid
wire routes, which could potentially induce hum over the speaker wire. The basic wiring rules are:
• Never run speaker wire through the same hole as an electrical cable.
• Never run speaker wire into the same J-box as electrical cable.
• Avoid running the speaker wire beside the electrical cable. Keep your speaker
cable at a distance of at least 3 feet from any electrical power cable.
• If side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in the house, move the
speaker wire route away as soon as possible.
• If construction forces a side-by-side run for more than 10 feet, install metal conduit
or shielded speaker wire. Low-voltage wires such as doorbells, intercoms, telephone,
security, or television cannot cause interference or hum on your speaker wires, so
you can safely run all of them at the same time, through the same holes,
side-by-side.
• Before drilling any holes, mount the speaker brackets in the desired speaker
Locations and mount p-rings or open-backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume
Controls and stereo equipment will be located.
ABOUT DRILLING
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires you plan to run. This is an important consideration,
since you may be drilling a lot of holes. Here are some additional tips:
• We recommend using an auger bit for rough-
in wiring. It will actually pull itself through
the wood, so that the drill motor, not you,
does most of the work.
• Always drill the holes in the center of the
stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill the
hole closer than 1 inch from the edge of the
stud, protect the wire with a nail plate, as
shown in Figure 9.
• When drilling holes in ceiling joists, drill in
the center of the joists and try to locate
the hole near the end of the joist.
Figure 9. Installing a nail
plate to protect wiring in a
notched stud.
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ABOUT DRILLING (CONTINUED)
IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH A GLU-LAM OR LOAD-BEARING BEAM WITHOUT THE
DIRECTION OF YOUR CONTRACTOR.
• Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it makes pulling the wire much easier. A
good technique is to snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or against the
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work backward so that you can always see the
holes you have already drilled. Paying careful attention to this will save you time
later on.
PULLING THE CABLE
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to the volume control, from the volume control to the
speaker). Start with the longest sections and use leftover wire to complete the short sections. Also
consider the following wiring tips:
• If you plan to pull many rooms at the same time through a central route, walk off the
Distance to each destination, add a generous “fudge factor” for turns and other
Obstacles, and then cut off each section, so you can pull a bundle of wires at once.
• When running the wire further than 4-1/2 feet from a hole in a stud or joist (e.g., open
attic space, going up walls, etc.), be sure to fasten the wire to the joists or studs using
cable clamps or appropriately-sized wire staples. The wire should not have large sags
in it, nor should it be too tight.
• Try to protect the wire from being stepped on in attics or other unfinished crawl
spaces. Use guard strips, raceways, or conduits to protect the cable. Consult the local
building code for special requirements in your area.
CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE
ABOUT INTERIOR WALLS
Interior walls in almost all North American residences are hollow, so they are easy installation sites
for flush mounting speakers and routing new speaker cable in the house. Looking at a painted
wallboard, plaster, or paneling, you only see the skin of the wall. Behind it is the home’s skeleton;
2-by-4 inch wood or metal “studs” running vertically from the floor to the ceiling in walls and
2-by-6 inch or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and floors. The space between the
studs and joists is used for the home’s wiring and plumbing.
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CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)
ABOUT EXTERIOR WALLS
Concealing wires in exterior walls is more complex, since the walls are stuffed with insulation to
protect the house from the heat and cold outside. Moreover, our national building code requires
that a horizontal stud placed between the vertical studs break the hollow wall space in exterior
walls. This “fire blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas
of the country, the exterior walls are constructed of solid masonry and have no hollow space for
speakers or wires.
PLANNING THE SPEAKER WIRE ROUTE
Start by examining all the possible routes you might take to run the speaker wire from the speaker
to the home theater system. Use a stud sensor or other device to locate the internal structure of
the wall. You will want to avoid all studs or joists. Figure 10 shows a typical wire run from the
speaker location in the ceiling, across the attic, then down through a top plate (i.e., the horizontal
2-by-4 or 2-by-6 inch wood laid across the vertical studs) to a wall plate or a J-Box in the wall
behind the home theater system itself.
Find all the locations of your
existing electrical, phone, and
TV wiring, and then plan the
speaker wire route to avoid
them. Crossing wire paths is
acceptable, but 60 Hz hum may
be induced in the reproduced
audio, if speaker wire is run parallel to electrical wire for more than a few feet. If possible, try to
keep speaker wire away from parallel power cables by at least 3 feet.
To find exactly where an electrical cable is routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall by turn-
ing off the breaker for a particular power outlet or switch, removing the cover plate and switch or
receptacle, and then shining a penlight into the wall. If you have access to an attic or basement
space, you can quickly see which part of the wall space is free of obstructions, as shown in Figure 11.
Figure 10. Running
speaker wire from a ceiling
speaker to a home theater
system location.
Speaker
Location
Volume
Control
Location
Stereo
Location
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When you don’t have access above or below the wall, try to estimate the existing wire and pipe
locations from known positions of electrical outlets and plumbed fixtures on both sides of the wall.
Take a look at the outside of your house too – sometimes conduit, vents, or drainpipe will provide
useful visible clues. Choose the route with the fewest potential obstacles.
If the home is built on a slab, or a speaker wire route is planned between two finished floors, look
for baseboards that could be removed for wire placement. Doorjambs can also be removed and
often have enough space for speaker wire all the way around the door, as shown in Figure 12.
OTHER POSSIBLE SPEAKER WIRE ROUTES INCLUDE:
• Under-the-carpet runs using flat speaker wires.
• Heating and air conditioning vents used as wire raceways for plenum-rated wire.
NOTE: CHECK YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES, SINCE SOME MUNICIPALITIES REQUIRE
CONDUIT.
Figure 11. An example
of unobstructed wall space
for speaker wiring.
Figure 12. Running speaker
wire between a wall and a removed
doorjamb. Nail plates are also
installed to protect the wire when
the doorjamb is replaced.
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CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)
CUTTING HOLES
In traditional wood stud/drywall construction, first cut the hole for the speaker. Then, in the open-
ing, use a drill with a long bit to auger a route across the ceiling joists. Sometimes, you will need to
use a “notching” technique to reach areas the drill bit won’t reach or to turn corners (e.g. down a
wall without an accessible attic).
Avoid making an irregular hole in the
drywall. By carefully cutting a rectan-
gular hole, you can later use the cut
drywall as the patch. Notch the bottom
of the joists and run the wire through the
notches, protecting the wire with nail
plates, as shown in Figure 13.
After the wire has been run, patch the hole with the cut drywall using standard drywall joint tape
and joint compound. Let the patch dry, sand the surface, and touch-up the wall with paint.
NEW CONSTRUCTION:
INSTALLATION OF BRACKETS, FRAMES, AND GRILLES
INSULATING THE CEILING CAVITY
If feasible, fill the ceiling cavity with insulation after cutting speaker holes.
MOUNTING THE NEW CONSTRUCTION BRACKET
The hole-saving bracket enables a faster and cleaner final installation of the speaker. It forces the
drywall installer to cut out the speaker hole for you and provides wire ties for the speaker wire,
reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables you to align
your speakers with other ceiling fixtures with greater accuracy, since you can see exactly where
the speaker will be.
Figure 13. Example
of a ceiling speaker
cutout with ceiling joists
notched for wire run.
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INSTALLING THE BRACKET
1. Attach the QuickSnap™ new-construction wings to the bracket by snapping them
into the bracket sides. If the length will interfere with corner or eaves, you can
shorten the wings by breaking them along the scored lines.
NOTE: THE WINGS AND BRACKETS HAVE CENTERING LINES TO SIMPLIFY PLACEMENT
OF THE SPEAKERS.
2. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the joist, using one of the
supplied screws. Level the bracket, and then screw the other side of the bracket/wing
assembly to the joist. Two screws on each side make for a very secure installation.
3. Secure the wire to the bracket using bracket’s wire tie. The drywall installers will cut
the drywall to the exact size of the bracket, as shown in Figure 14.
CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE INSTALLATION
1. Attach the speaker wire in a loop between the ceiling joists and carefully mark the
exact location of the wire on a set of plans.
2. Ask the general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the speaker wire loops
are concealed for future installations, as shown in Figure 15.
Figure 14. The optional hole-
saving brackets are installed, and
the speaker wire is attached to
the bracket.
Figure 15. The speaker wire
is looped and hung on two nails
attached to the joists, securing it
for future use. Be sure to note the
location on house plans.
15

EXISTING CONSTRUCTION:
INSTALLATION OF BRACKETS, FRAMES, AND GRILLES
PLANNING THE INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE SECTIONS SPEAKER PLACMENT
ON PAGE 6 AND RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION ON PAGE 10. BE SURE
NOT TO DRILL OR CUT THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY
EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING OR SAWING, STOP!
1. Locate joists by using a stud sensor or by hand knocking. Keep in mind that the
mounting “dogs” will extend 3/4 inch beyond the cutout. Make sure you do not place
the edge of the cutout directly next to a ceiling joist.
2. At the planned cutout site, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole just barely through the ceiling,
about an inch below the center of your proposed speaker location.
NOTE: IN MOST HOMES, THE CEILING THICKNESS IS 1/2 TO 5/8 INCH.
3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger and bend it to create a right angle, leaving
3/4 inch to allow for the extra width of the mounting dogs. Poke the “L-shaped” wire
into the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle, as shown in Figure 16.
4. Continue turning the coat hanger as you move it into the ceiling cavity to a depth of
approximately 6 inches. If you feel an obstruction, fill the hole(s) with spackling com-
pound and repeat steps 1 through 4 at a new location.
5. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle, hold the supplied template up to
the ceiling surface. Use a pencil to outline the circular cutout on the ceiling surface.
Then drill a starting point with a 1/4-inch bit.
6. If you are cutting drywall, use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the hole with the saw at
a 45-degree angle. That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is an
unseen obstruction behind the wall.
Figure 16. Using a
coat hanger to check
for obstructions behind
the ceiling speaker site.
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7. If you are cutting into a plaster ceiling, use masking tape to outline your penciled
circle and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel
to remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. To actually cut the lath, consider
the following two professional methods:
• Use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade for the quickest cut. However, saw-
ing lath with a saber saw can easily vibrate plaster off the ceiling in a completely
distant location, thereby creating more patchwork.
• If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath
instead. There is little risk with this method – it is just more time consuming.
FINISHING THE INSTALLATION
INSTALLING THE SPEAKERS
1. If possible, lay a batten of insulation into each ceiling cavity. Remember to use equal
amounts of insulation for each speaker.
2. At each speaker, separate the speaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each conduc-
tor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each speaker wire and insert the
appropriate wire into each spring-loaded speaker connector.
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND
NEGATIVE (–) GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.
3. Locate the four clamps or mounting dogs which will
hold each speaker in place, along with their front-baf-
fle tightening screws. Rotate the dogs inward, insert
each speaker into its cutout, and tighten the dogs by
turning the screws clockwise, as shown in Figure 17.
NOTE: THE TIGHTENING SCREWS WILL BE EASIER TO
TURN IF YOU “PRIME” THEM FIRST.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS!
OVER TIGHTENING THE CLAMPS MAY MAKE THE GRILLE
DIFFICULT TO INSTALL.
4. Perform step 2 at the amplifier end. Make sure each speaker is connected correctly
according to polarity and channel use.
5. Turn on the surround receiver and calibrate all speakers in the surround system ac-
cording to the receiver manufacturer’s instructions.
Figure 17. Tightening the
clamps or mounting dogs.
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INSTALLING THE SPEAKERS (CONTINUED)
6. At each speaker, set the DIFFUSE/DIRECT switch according to the desired application
(see page 8 for usage).
7. At each speaker, set the TWEETER LEVEL switch according to the desired application
(see page 9 for usage).
8. Install grilles into each speaker – they should fit snugly. If they don’t, try loosening the
mounting-dog screws. They may have been tightened too much.
PAINTING THE SPEAKERS
The CM6HDfx speakers may be painted, as the plastic frame will readily accept most paints. For
best results, use a spray gun or airless sprayer, thin the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes,
and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.
1. Paint the grilles first and let them dry before installation.
2. Mask all speakers prior to painting them. You can use the inside circular portion of the
hole template as a paint mask.
3. Remove the outside portion of the template by gently pulling along the perforation.
Affix the mask to the front of the speaker using a piece of tape. Fold the tape onto
itself to form a double-sided loop. Affix the tape to the tweeter and place the mask
onto the speaker.
4. Paint the speakers. After they are dry, install the grilles.
CHECKING SPEAKER PHASE
Speaker wire has two conductors. On both your speaker and amplifier, one conductor is attached to
the negative (–) terminals, while the other is attached to the positive (+) terminals. Usually, the wire
is marked for your convenience, but the marking can be done in following different ways:
• Stripe on one wire
• Ribbed area you can feel on one conductor
• Different colors of metal wire on each conductor
• Fabric strand or string wound into one of the conductors
Of course, there are some wires which appear completely identical. So be careful, or you might
make a connection mistake. If you do, one speaker will be playing “out-of-phase” with the other
speaker. A pair of out-of-phase speakers works against each other, and the sound of the two
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