Outdoor living today SS84S-Metal User manual

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Page 1
8x4 SpaceSaver Garden Shed
Bevel Model with Metal Roof
Assembly Manual
Revision #1.4
September 16, 2022
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer
Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your
purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be
provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x4 SpaceSaver Garden
Shed. Please take the time
to identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Please be aware that it is the
customers’ sole responsibility
to acquire the necessary
building permits and or obtain
approval from their local
county, municipality or HOA
prior to purchasing. Generally,
shed structures under 100
square feet do not require
permits in most jurisdictions
in the United States and
Canada.
Optional door
configuration
STOCK CODE #
SS84S-Metal

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there are•
no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and in•
working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people two days to assemble a shed. If you’re hiring
a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for 8x4 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (45 1/2” x 96”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 0.6 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 3 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 8’ long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 15 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
45 1/2”
96”
45 1/2”
96”
6” Deep
57 1/2”
108”
3 - 4”x4”x96”
15 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
17 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers Completed Foundation
57 1/2”
108”
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Page 3

Thank you for purchasing our 8x4 Bevel SpaceSaver Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Large Floor Frame (2 Joists unattached)
1 - 45 ½” x 21” - Small Floor Frame (2 Joists ATTACHED)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 72” - Floor Joists
(Steps 1 - 2)
5 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners
(Steps 3 - 5)
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 75” - Plywood Flooring
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 21” - Plywood Flooring
(Steps 6 - 8)
B. Wall Section
4 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Wall Plates
4 - 45 ½” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Window Wall Panel
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Wall Panels
(Steps 9 - 18)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Door Header - (Dado top edge)
2 - 3/4” x 3 ½” x 73” - Door Jambs - Vertical
(Steps 19 - 21)
2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extenders (L/R)
2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extenders (L/R)
2 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extenders
(Steps 22 - 28)
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 70” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 21” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
(Step 29-30)
C. Rafter & Roof Section
6 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffit
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffit
(Steps 31 - 36)
6 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 50” - Roof Battens
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 21 1/2” - Batten Spacers
(Steps 37 - 40)
2 - Rafter/Facia Nailing Strips - ¾” x ¾” x 51”
(Step 41)
3 - Metal Roof Panels - 39” w x 58 1/2” d
(Steps 42 - 46)
Foam Enclosures - Several Strips
(Step 47)
D. Miscellaneous Section
(Skirting, Trim, Door, Facia & Misc. Parts)
6 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
(Steps 49 - 52)
8 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims
2 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 10” - Rear Center Corner Filler Trims
(Steps 53 - 55)
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 79” - Vertical Door Trims
1 - ¾ x 1 ½” x 45 ¼” - Top Window Wall Trim
(Steps 56 - 58)
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 79” - Front Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½ x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Front Corner Trims
3 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Rear Corner & Middle Trims
(Steps 59 - 62)
1 - 31 ½” X 72” - Full Door
(Step 63-65)
1 - ½” x 1 ¼” x 32” - Above Door Trim
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 7 ¾” - Narrow Wall Trim
(Step 66)
2 - ½” x 4” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends) - reverse
4 - ½” x 4” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia
(Steps 67 - 69)
2 - 6” x 60” - Metal Ridge Caps - angled
(Step 70)
1 - Detail Facia Plates (4” high)
(Step 71)
1 - ½” x ½” x 32” - Upper Hor. Door Stop
4 - ½” x ½” x 36 1/4” - Vertical Door Stops
(Steps 72 - 73)
1 Aluminum Window Insert
(Steps 74 - 75)
Window Trim Pkg
1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 - 23” Straight Cut - Window Trim Kit
(Steps 76)
1 Flower Box Kit
(Steps 77)
1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding - Use if wall
panel siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
Optional Pieces - When Door configured on end.
1- 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 73” - Optional Door Jamb
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 79” - Optional Vertical Door Trim
(Optional - Steps 80 - 83)
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
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Page 4

8x4 BEVEL SPACESAVER - METAL ROOF - HARDWARE PACKAGE
Tee Hinge x 3
Door Handle x 1
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bit
Drop Latch
Utility Knife
2 1/2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
1 1/2”
Finishing Nail
Caulking
x 140
x 153
x 22
x 12
x 240
x 1
Black Headed
Black Headed
4” x 6
x 14
1/4” x 2” long
Metal Roof Screw
Metal Roof Hanger x 3
x 1
1/4” Nut Driver
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 4
Silicon Caulking (1)
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3” x 10

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold (if applicable).
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey colour.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Plywood Floor
Large Floor
Joist Frame
Floor Joists (2)
Floor Runners (5)
Small Floor
Joist Frame
Exploded Floor Section
A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
Foundation Material
not included.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 72”) as illustrated above.
Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine
joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Bit for the screws in with the Hardware Kit Bag.
Flush
with
framing.
Front of SpaceSaver
Door Location. Small Floor
Joist Frame.
You can find the
Square Drive Bit, for
the screws, in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
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3. With Floor Joist Frames positioned
together flush, attach with 6 - 2 1/2” screws.
4. Position and attach Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) to completed floor
frames with 6 - 2 1/2” screws per Runner.
Make sure Runners are flush with outside
of floor framing but not overhanging. Make
sure 4th Runner is placed equally over seam
where floor frames meet.
4th Runner
4th Runner
96”
45 1/2”
5. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution - you may need 2 people to assist you. Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor runners will sit on your foundation. It is important
to note that having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
6. When in place, level floor completely
before proceeding.
7. Position Plywood Floor pieces (2) on top of
completed floor joists.
Flush with Floor Framing.
Front
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Important:
Floor should be
completely level before
moving to next step.

8. Position Plywood so it sits almost flush with outside of floor joist framing (see Note). When
correctly positioned, attach to all floor joists with 1 1/4” screws. Use screws every 16”.
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Wall Plate
9. Locate 4 Solid Wall Panels and 4 Wall Plates (1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”). Attach Plates to
bottom of studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Note: Plywood is cut slightly smaller than
floor framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior to
screwing. This will make it much
easier to attached together.
Pilot Hole
first.
Angled Wall
Extenders (2)
Door Header
Solid Wall
Panel (4)
Wall Plate (4)
Window Wall
Panel
Door Jambs
Narrow Wall
Panel
Horizontal
Wall Cleats
Wall Extenders (2) Top Triangular
Siding Pcs (2) L/R)
See Page 32 for
Optional End Door
Configuration.
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10. Starting on side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will
overhang the floor. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
11. Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should be flush with outside of floor framing when properly
aligned. Note: Do not align wall siding to floor. Align wall plate to outside of plywood floor. When
positioned correctly, locate 2nd Solid Wall Panel and place in corner.
Wall Plate Flush
with plywood floor.
Do not align
wall siding to
floor. Align
wall plate to
outside of
plywood floor.
12. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Have helper push wall framing
together while securing to ensure tight fit.
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 30.
Wall Plate
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13. With the corner wall attachment complete, position the second rear wall panel in place so
bottom 2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor framing. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both wall panel studs together as per
Step 12 with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
14. With Rear Wall Panel in place, position other side wall panel on floor as per Step 10 & 11.
Rear Wall Panel
15. Secure side wall panel to rear wall panel as per Step 12. Next, locate a Narrow Wall Panel and
position in front corner.
Do Not Attach
Walls To Floor
until Step 30.
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2x3 wall
plate flush
with plywood
floor.
17. Position and align front corner Window Wall Panel as per Steps 11 & 12.
19. Locate Door Jambs (2@ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 73”)
and place on wall studs to either side of door opening.
Door Jambs.
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16. Once again position the 2x3 wall plate so it sits flush on floor and siding overhangs.
When correctly positioned, secure Narrow Wall Stud to Side Wall Stud with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Note: Narrow Wall Panel is only 73” high.
18. When correctly positioned, use 3 - 2 1/2”
screws to secure wall studs together.

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20. Position Door Jambs flush against narrow and window wall studs and tight to floor. The Jamb
is 3 1/2” wide and will sit flush to outside of wall siding. When positioned correctly, secure Jambs
using 4 - 2 1/2” screws. With both door jambs secured, confirm 32” door opening.
21. Position and attach the Door Header to top of Narrow Wall framing and against window wall
framing resting on top of door jambs. Header should sit flush on Door Jambs. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2”
screws. On window side, screw about 1” from end of header at angle into window wall framing. Pilot
hole first.
Dado cut on edge.
Jamb flush with
siding butt.
Angle Pilot
Hole first.
Door opening
should be 32”
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
will be installed after Roof is
attached in Step 48.
Top Siding Pc.
Side Wall Panel
22. Locate both Angled Wall Extenders (L/R). Place first wall extender on side wall panel frame.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extender will overhang and cover siding of side wall.
Jamb flush with
top of narrow wall.
Gap on window side.

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23. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall so they are flush at the back. The
siding for both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
24. With Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure together from the inside with
4 - 2 1/2” screws.
25. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extender positioning and attachment as per Steps 23 & 24.
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
Sidings will
overlap.

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26. Locate one Wall Extender and place on rear wall panel with siding of extender
overlapping that of the rear wall.
Siding of
Extension Wall.
Siding of
rear wall.
27. With 2x3 wall framing aligned, attach Wall Extender to both the Angled Wall Extender framing
and the rear wall framing with 5 - 2 1/2” screws.
28. Position and secure 2nd Wall Extender Panel as per Steps 26 & 27. Additionally, attach to first
Extender with 2 - 2 1/2” screws.

29. Attach Horizontal Wall Cleats (1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 70”, 1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 21”) to Wall Extender
bottom framing and Rear Wall top framing, so that cleat is flush with extender framing. There is a short
and a long wall cleat. Alternate alignment of screws, so half screw into Wall Extender Framing and half
into Rear Wall Top Framing. Use 8 - 1 1/4” screws.
C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Metal Roof
Panel (3)
Foam Enclosures
(Several)
Rear Soffits (2)
Rafters (6)
Front Soffits (2)
Facia/Roof
Nailing Strips
(2)
Roof Batten 50”
(6)
Batten
Spacers (4)
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30. To complete Wall
Section, attach bottom 2x3
wall plates to plywood
floor with 20 - 2 1/2”
screws. Confirm Doorway
opening is 32” wide. Prior
to securing, make sure
wall panels are aligned
correctly on the floor.
Refer to Step 11. Wall
siding should overhang
floor while 2x3 wall plates
should sit flush with floor.
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Confirm doorway opening is
32” wide at top and bottom.

31. Locate 6 Rafters, 2 Front Soffits and 2 Rear Soffits. Lay out on level ground and assemble as
shown in Illustrations A through C below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Measure and attach interior Rafters as illustrated above. Measure and attach
remaining Soffit/Rafter connections using 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter/soffit.
A. B. C.
Front Soffit
Screw center rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
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Rear Soffit Boards (2)
Front Soffit
Boards (2)
48”
21 3/4”
21 3/4”
96”
Mid Rafter Mid Rafter
Front
Confirm angles on rafter
ends are aligned.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each
screw, to avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be
equal to 3/4 the length of screw.

32. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so Front Soffit is facing the front and place on
SpaceSaver walls. Note: Double check that your Rafter Section is positioned correctly by ensuring the
ends of the Rafters are sloped vertically as shown above.
Rear Soffit.
Rear of SpaceSaver
34. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, Front Soffits will sit approximately 1/8” away from
wall siding. The Rear Soffit may touch wall siding. This can vary slightly.
Rafter sits on framing.
33. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall
framing and be positioned equally from side to side.
Front Soffit.
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Rafter ends vertical.
Side View

35. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using 90° Metal Brackets. Start with
outside rafters and secure 2 - 90° Metal Brackets with 1 1/4” screws. Screw into Wall Extension
Framing at the rear and Wall Panel top framing at the front. Complete both sides.
90° Metal
Brackets
36. With outside rafters properly secured, completely secure remaining interior rafters using
8 - 3” Screws. Screw into rafters from inside of Header on an angle at front of shed, and from inside
of Extension Wall Framing at rear of shed.
Front
37. With Position the first row of Battens (3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 50”) on rear of roof rafters.
Place flush with rafter end. Batten will sit evenly on center rafters overhanging 2” on the outside
rafters. Attach Batten with 1 - 1 1/4” screw per each rafter. Pre-drill with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent
end from splitting. Complete attachments of both 50” long roof Battens.
Center Rafters
Flush with rafter
end. Overhanging
2” on outside
rafter.
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Batten Spacers
38. Place Batten Spacers (2 pcs x 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 21 1/2”) below each end of the attached Batten,
lengthwise along outside Rafter. Ensure Batten Spacer is tight with Batten. Attach Batten Spacer to
Rafter using 2 - 1 1/4” screws (4 total)
39. Locate middle row of Roof Battens ( 2 pcs x 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 50” long) and
attach flush with previously attached Batten Spacers via the same method as Step 37. Attach a
second row of Batten Spacers flush with the bottom edge of this middle Batten row via the
same method as Step 38.
40. Locate lower row of Roof Battens ( 2 pcs x 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 50” long) and
attach flush with previously attached Batten Spacers via the same method as Step 37, using a
total of 6 - 1 1/4” screws.
Important: Pre-drill pilot hole with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent Batten Spacer from splitting.
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