Painless PHANTOM KEY Series User manual

Phantom Key Push Button Ignition System
Instruction Part #90577
For Installing:
Part #’s 55000, 55001, 55002,

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Painless Performance Products, LLC
2501 Ludelle St.
Fort Worth, TX 76105-1036
PHONE: [phone] FAX: [phone]
EMAIL: [e-mail]
If you have any questions concerning the installation of this harness,
feel free to call Painless Performance Products' Tech Line at 1-800-423-
9696. The Tech Line can be reached from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. central time,
Monday through Thursday, and 8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. on Fridays.
We have attempted to provide you with as accurate of instructions as
possible and are always concerned about corrections or improvements that
can be made. If you have found any issues or omissions, or simply have
comments or suggestions concerning these instructions, please write us at
the above address, send us a fax at [phone], or email us at
[e-mail]. We sincerely appreciate your
business.
Painless Performance Products, LLC shall in no event be liable in
contract or tort (including negligence) for special, indirect, incidental, or
consequential damages, such as but not limited to, loss of property
damage, or any other damages, costs or expenses which might be claimed
as the result of the use or failure of the goods sold hereby, except only the
cost of repair or replacement
June 2011
Copyright 2011 by Perfect Performance Products, LLC

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Painless Performance Products recommends you, the installer,
read this installation manual from front to back before installing
this harness. Reading thoroughly before any installation takes
place will give you insight on the proper installation of this
harness.
Please be aware that you are dealing with high amperage
connections at the ignition switch, be certain the appropriate
connections to the Phantom Key module are made. There should
be no guessing, incorrect connections could lead to module and
ignition system failure.
Factory schematics of the starting system and ignition switch will
be greatly useful in connection of this Painless product. They will
make understanding each wire function easier and will save you a
lot of time that would otherwise be used trying to identify wires at
the ignition switch with a volt meter. These schematics can be
located on the internet and in vehicle specific manuals sold in most
auto parts stores.
If schematics cannot be located, a call to the Painless tech
department could lead to you getting the information you need.
While we have access to hundreds of different vehicle schematics,
your particular vehicle may not be one in our library. Also, please
take notice that the tech department can be very busy at times and
to make it easier for you and the tech, know the color of the wires
and the location of them on your ignition switch before calling.
Contact one of the Painless techs at [phone].
The colors used on the Phantom Key are GM color-coded. Meaning
if your vehicle is a GM product, if the chassis harness used in your
vehicle is an aftermarket GM color-coded harness, or if you have
an aftermarket GM style column with an ignition switch, the wires
of the Phantom Key should match the colors of the wires you will
be connecting to.
A full color copy of these instructions can be found at
http://www.painlessperformance.com/InfoSearch/manuals.php

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE # SECTION
5 INTRODUCTION
6 CONTENTS OF THE PAINLESS KIT
8 TOOLS NEEDED
9 PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
10 INSTALLATION
11 Push button Mounting
12 Module & Relay Mounting
13 Harness Connections
24 KEY FOB MODES, INFORMATION, & OPERATION
25 TESTING THE INSTALLATION
26 PROGRAMMABLE MODES
28 Key Fob Learn
29 Emergency Bypass
DIAGRAMS
14 CONNECTORS
15 WIRE FUNCTIONS
18 GM COLUMN MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
20 QUICK CONNECT METHODS
22 RELAYS

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INTRODUCTION
The contents of this product include everything needed to replace the function of a
keyed ignition switch with a simple push button. From entry-level vehicles to high-end
exotics, this same push button feature can be found on many of today’s newer cars. By
carefully working your way through this instruction manual, you will be able to retro fit
your classic or modern vehicle with some of today’s new vehicle technology.
The Phantom Key module completely eliminates your vehicles ignition switch and
allows the operator of the vehicle to operate the ON and START functions with the
simple push of a button.
The key fob communicates with the Phantom Key module as you approach or walk
away from the vehicle. RFID technology allows the push button ignition switch to
operate only for the owner/user of the vehicle. Simply carry one of the key fob IDs with
you, as you come into proximity of the vehicle with the Phantom Key installed, the
module verifies your ID, and becomes active allowing the push button to work. This
proximity is about 10 feet. In the same sense, when the key fob ID moves out of the
proximity of the vehicle the module becomes inactive, and the push button does not
operate. See the “PROGRAMMABLE MODES” portion of this manual for details on
automatic and manual modes of identification from the key fob.
Each key fob ID is unique so a key fob from another Phantom key system will not
work with the module found in your Phantom key kit unless it is programmed to your
module. See the “PROGRAMMABLE MODES”portion on this manual for details. This
assures you, the end user, that the security of your vehicle with the Phantom key
system installed cannot be compromised. However, a single key fob can be
programmed to multiple vehicles allowing someone to operate their car, truck, boat, RV,
etc all with one key fob if each vehicle has a Phantom key module installed.
This install manual is broken down into sections:
Introduction - provide simple clarification of the Phantom Key Product
Contents of the Painless Kit –lists parts your Phantom Key Kit supplies
Tools Needed - lists all things required to properly install the Phantom Key
Pre-Installation Guidelines –contains precautions to take into account before
installation beings and basic install information
Installation- walks you through installing the complete system step by step
Key Fob Modes & Information- outlines the 2 different ways the key fobs
communicate and specifics of the key fobs
Testing- details the proper test sequence of a new install
Programmable Modes –walks you through the customizable features of the
Phantom Key, programming new key fobs, and the Emergency function
To avoid possible mistakes and damage to the module, follows these instructions
from one page to the next and do not skip around. There are some steps that must be
completed before others.

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CONTENTS OF THE PAINLESS KIT
Refer to the Contents Figure (below) to take inventory. See that you have
everything you are intended to have in this kit. If you find that anything is missing or
damaged, please contact the dealer where you obtained the kit or Painless
Performance at [phone].
The Painless Wire Harness Kit should contain the following:
(1) PHANTOM KEY MODULE with HARNESS and RELAY BANKS
(1) PUSH STAINLESS PUSH BUTTON with EXTENSION HARNESS
(1) SMALL MOMENTARY BUTTON
(1) PHANTOM KEY ID CARD
(2) KEY FOBS
(4) RELAYS
(5) SELF TAPPING SCREWS
(4) 4” STRIPS OF VELCRO
(50) ZIP TIES
(1) SMALL PARTS KIT- contains relays, splices, heat shrink, and terminals
CONTENT FIGURE- All of the parts in the Painless kit

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SMALL PARTS
Included with the Painless harness is a parts kit containing insulated ring terminals.
These terminals have a semi-transparent insulation that is heat shrinkable to provide a
weatherproof connection.
The un-insulated splices are to be used in conjunction with the supplied heat shrink.
These will be used when splicing into the power wires at the ignition switch
The blue Posi-Taps contained in the parts kit make connection quick and easy
without any cutting involved to the wires of your existing harness. Unlike traditional
“blade” style taps, which usually cut through the wire you are tapping onto, the Posi-
Tap, simply pierces the insulation. Proper installation of the Posi-Tap can be
accomplished in 4 easy steps:
1. Slide the slotted end over the wire/power source you are tapping onto. This will be a
pre-existing wire, not a wire found in the Painless kit.
2. Thread the main body of the Posi-
Tap onto the slotted end, ensuring
the needle pierces the wire. Smaller
gauge wires tend to move aside as
the needle comes down, causing
improper connections. Watch closely
to ensure this does not happen.
3. Strip a ¼” of insulation away from the
wire you are connecting. This will be
a wire coming from the Phantom Key
harness.
4. Insert the stripped wire into the small
threaded end, and then thread it into
the Posi-Tap main body.
There are 2 different types of relays found in the parts kit, although they look
identical except for the print on them. The difference and which relay bases require the
correct relays is detailed on p.14 of this manual. The lock and unlock relays will not
function correctly unless the correct relays are installed.

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TOOLS NEEDED
In addition to your regular hand tools, you will need, at least, the following tools:
Wire Crimping and Stripping Tools:
This style of hand crimper can be purchased
from just about any local auto parts store, home
improvement store or can also be purchased
online. You will need this style of crimper to
crimp the heat shrinkable insulated ring
terminals included in the small parts kit.
A good set of wire strippers are required. This
style of wire stripper is ideal for this harness
install because of its ability to properly strip wire
gauges 10 to 20. These are available from just
about any local auto part store, electrical supply
shop, home improvement store or can be
purchased online.
Volt/Ohm Meter:
A Volt/Ohm meter is always a good tool to have on
hand when installing any type of electrical
components into any vehicle. Most basic units
provide the two functions required to diagnose
electrical issues seen during a harness install. These
two functions are the ability to read DC Voltage and
electrical continuity or Ohms. They can be purchased
from any home improvement store, local hardware
store, and electrical supply shop and online.
Electric Drill & Bits:
A drill and bits are needed in order to use the screws
provided with the kit to mount the module and relay.
Heat Gun:
Very useful to shrink the heat-shrinkable terminals found
in the parts kit as well as the heat shrink.
Factory Wire Schematic
This isn’t necessary; however, having one handy is
good practice with any electrical job. Chilton’s and
Haynes manuals, which can be found at most auto parts
stores and online, usually contain these schematics.
Soldering Iron
This isn’t necessary; however it will provide more positive connections to the large
amperage wires of the ignition switch connections over the splices provided in the kit.

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PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
At this time identify the wires of the chassis harness you will be connecting to. A
factory schematic and/or a voltmeter will help accomplish this. You may find that there
are extra wires going to your ignition switch that the Phantom key does not support. In
most causes these are ground wires to key buzzers and indicator lights in the dash.
At the ignition switch the Phantom Key module will need to connect to 3 or more
sources:
Battery Power- This will be the wire that feeds power from the battery to the
switch
Switched Power- This will be the wire(s) from the switch that provide power to
the fuse block. There could be one or more of these wires depending if you have
an “ACCESSORY” position as well as the “ON/RUN” position. Some ignition
switches also provide power to the ignition system or coil.
Start- This wire provides power out to the clutch safety/neutral safety/starter
solenoid when the ignition switch is in the “START” position.
At the headlight switch or at an exterior parking light the Phantom Key will need to
connect to one source:
Park Light Power- This will be the wire that provides power from the headlight
switch out to the Park/Tail lights.
At the brake switch, turn signal switch, or brake light the Phantom Key will need to
connect to one source:
Brake Light Power- This will be the wire supplies power to the brake lights when
the brake pedal is pressed.
Depending on how your door locks are activated you will be making ground connections
from the Phantom Key to your lock/unlock module or to the lock/unlock switches, or
those that switch power will be connecting power to the lock/unlock switches or to the
lock/unlock solenoids themselves. Determine how your lock switches function.
Before any installation of this product takes place a few things must be taken into
consideration.
Is the column in your vehicle equipped with a wheel lock? Meaning, after the key
is removed and the wheel is turned, does it lock into place disallowing the wheel
to move in any direction until the key is inserted into the ignition switch?
The way around a column lock is to ensure it will never lock or remove it. This is done
by leaving a key in the ignition switch with the switch in the “ON/RUN” position.
Removing the head of the key and inserting it into the ignition switch is the easiest way
to achieve this. The lock may also be removed from the column; however this can be a
pretty involved process.

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Does your ignition switch key have an identification chip? Some keys are
equipped with a small chip in the shaft of the key, while others are on the head.
These chips worked similar to the Phantom Key in that they communicated with
factory installed modules to allow ignition functions. The Phantom key will not
replace these factory installed modules; they must be used in conjunction with
this Painless product.
If your ignition switch key has one of these ID chips it must remain in or close to the
ignition for everything to work properly. For chips in the shaft of the key, removing the
head of the key and inserting the headless key into the ignition switch and leaving the
switch in the “ON/RUN” position, will still allow the vehicle to operate once the Phantom
key is installed. For key with the chips in the head, you do the same procedure as
described above, but the cut off head of the key will need to be taped or zip tied close to
the ignition switch on the column.
Bypass modules for these security systems that required chipped keys, like GM’s
“PASSLOCK” and Ford’s “PATS” systems can also be purchased. These modules can
usually be found in catalogs/websites dealing with remote starting a vehicle.
Leaving the key in the ignition, is that safe? With the installation of the Phantom
Key the normal functions of your ignition switch to start the vehicle will be
completely disabled. The ignition key can be turned to the “Start” position and
nothing will happen, regardless if the key fob is in range or not. However,
depending on the way you connect the module, the ignition switch may be still
able to be turned to the “Off” position and disable the ignition system regardless if
the key fob is in range or not, see p.14.
Also, leaving the key in the ignition will cut out on some of the connections
needing to be made at the ignition switch, see “QUICK CONNECT” p.14
INSTALLATION
The following instructions contain step by step procedures on mounting and
connection of the switches, the Phantom Key module and the accompanying harness.
These steps MUST be followed as they are printed. Do
not move on to other parts of the installation out of
sequence.
CAUTION: BEFORE THE INSTALLATION OF THIS
PRODUCT, DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM YOUR
VEHICLE BY REMOVING THE NEGATIVE OR POSITIVE
BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY. THE BATTERY
SHOULD NOT TO BE RECONNECTED UNTIL INSTRUCTED

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Before any installation takes place, decide on a good location for the module. This
mounting point must be inside the vehicle. The Phantom Key module is not designed to
hold up to the environment found inside an engine compartment or in any other place
outside the vehicle.
All wires have been given ample length to allow mounting the module easier;
however, the start button and programming button have shorter lengths. Consider these
lengths when a mounting point for the module is decided. Both the stainless push button
and the small programming button must be accessible from the driver set when
connected to the module. An extension pigtail has been included for the stainless Start
button; however it will be up to the installer to lengthen the small programming button if
the module is mounted more than 2 feet away from some place accessible from the
driver’s seat.
If your vehicle currently has a power lock module that requires ground signal for lock
and unlock activation or ground activated lock relays, then the lock and unlock signal
wires coming from the module to the relays, the 20 gauge green and blue wires, can be
removed from the relay banks. They can then be connected to the ground activation
sources you are currently using for lock and unlock control. This will avoid routing
redundant higher amperage power and grounds that come from the relays to the lock
solenoids.
STAINLESS PUSH BUTTON and
PROGRAMMING BUTTON MOUNTING
The stainless push button will be the
first piece of hardware installed. This
push button will need to be mounted in a
place that will be accessible by the driver
while depressing the brake switch. The
6’ extension harness provided allows for
more flexibility on mounting locations.
The 4 pin connector found on the
stainless push button, as well as the
extension harness, plugs into the side of
the module.
Once an acceptable location for the push button has been decided, a 3/4” - 7/8”
hole will need to be made for the stainless push button. This can be done by
either using a drill bit, a small hole saw, or by removing the nut included on the
push button and using the threaded center as a template. No cutting should take
place until you have verified that there is a place to mount the module and relays
within reach of the wires coming from the stainless push button, with or without
the extension harness.
The nut found on the stainless push button will need to be removed in order to
install the push button. With the nut removed, install the push button through the
hole and feed the harness through until the bezel of the push button is flat with
the mounting surface. Once this is done, install the nut onto the back of the push
button. Do not over tighten the nut. It should only be installed hand tight plus a ¼
turn with a 1” wrench.

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The programming switch, the
small red momentary switch seen
in the photo, does not have to be
permanently mounted. However, if
it is not permanently installed, the
Module will need to be mounted in
such a way you will be able to plug
the small 2 pin connector into the
module and still be able to route
the button to the driver seat area.
The programming button can
simply be stored in the vehicle in
case it is ever needed.
If the programming button will be permanently installed, it will be installed now. It
can be mounted in a discreet location as it will only have use during initial
installation when you set the programmable parameters of the module to your
liking or if your key fob is lost/stolen or no longer communicates with the module.
Like the stainless button, the programming button will need to be accessible by
the driver while also depressing the brake.
The programming button will be installed in the same manner as the Stainless
push button; however it will require a 1/4” – 5/16” hole.
Route the wires coming from the stainless button and the programming button
towards the Module mounting location that you have pre-determined. Loosely
install zip ties, included with the kit, along the routing path towards the module to
secure the wires. These zip ties will be fully secured at a later point of the install.
If they are kept loose it will still allow maneuverability of the wires coming from
the button(s) and also allow routing other wires from the module along the same
path.
MODULE & RELAY MOUNTING
Once a mounting location for the module has been located and lengths of the
start button and programming button have been verified, mount the Phantom key
module. This can be done in three different ways:
1) Using the self tapping screws provided with the kit going through the two
mounting tabs on the module.
2) Using 2 pieces of the supplied velco, as seen in the photo on the next page.
This is an industrial strength fastener and is more than capable of securing the
weight of the Phantom key module. This method of mounting is good for
mounting the module to plastic panels, A/C duct work, and other places screws
would not be acceptable.
3) Using zip ties provided with the kit through the two mounting tabs found on the
module. This would be a good way to secure the module to under dash bracing,
an existing wire harness running through the dash, etc.

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With the module mounted you can now connect the 2 push buttons. They will
connect into the left side of the module; see the photos on p. 11 & 12. The third
connection point on the module you see is not used by the end user, it is for
programming the module before sale.
It is now time to mount the relay bases.
The relay bases can be mounted in the
same 3 ways as the module. Each relay
base has a mounting hole.
The easiest way is to simply use the
velco to fasten the relay bases to a
surface next to the module.
If you are mounting the relays using the
velcro or zip ties, installing the supplied
relays into the relay bases may be
easier before the bases are mounted.
See the next step for proper relay use.
Now that the relay bases are mounted, the relays supplied with the kit can now
be installed. Take notice that there are 2 different relays used: SPST and SPDT
SPST stands for single pole single throw. These relays do not have
a functional 87a pin, although some do have two 87 pins. The
relays provided in the kit that are printed with the “PAINLESS” logo
are SPST relays. The Accessory and the Park Light relays use this
type of relay. These will be the 2 relays with the YELLOW wires
and the BROWN wires. Refer to the picture at the bottom of p.22.
Using a SPDT relay in these bases will have no ill effects.
SPDT stands for single pole double throw. These relays, without
the “PAINLESS” logo, are normally closed to the 87a position.
Meaning that when the relay is not activated pins 30 and 87a are
connected. When the relay activates, pin 30 is then connected to
pin 87, not 87a. The Lock and Un-Lock bases require this type of
relay. These will be the 2 relays with the BLUE wires and the
GREEN wires. Refer to the picture at the bottom of p. 22.The lock
and un lock functions will not work properly if a SPST relay is installed because of the
way these bases are wired.
HARNESS CONNECTIONS
Now that the hardware of the Phantom Key kit is connected, wire routing and
connection will take place. Read all the way through these connections before any

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routing takes place, that way you can group wires together instead of routing each wire
individually.
At this time you will also need to determine how you are going to make connections
at the ignition switch. You can completely remove the ignition switch (if you do not need
to bypass any kind of column lock or factory installed security) or you can use either
variation of the “Quick Connect Method” outlined on page 19 if a key in the ignition is
still required.
Take notice that the 2 black connectors can be plugged in the wrong way. See the
drawing and instructions below for proper placement of these connectors.
Plug the 2 black connectors and the white connector found on the Phantom Key
harness into the Phantom Key module. The black connector with the Brown,
Orange, and Pink/black wires will plug into the module on the position closest to
the white connector.

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The wires found pinned into the 2 Black connectors of the Phantom key are:
Red- This wire is an input wire to the module. This wire will provide battery power into
the Phantom Key Module. It comes from a splice that also provides power to the relays
which is all fed by the 10 gauge red wire found on the harness. This open ended 10
gauge red wire is printed “TO BATTERY SOURCE” and will splice onto the wire that
originally fed battery power to the ignition switch.
Route this 10 gauge red wire to the ignition switch.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 10 gauge red wire coming from the
Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
Using one of the large un-insulated butt splices and large piece of heat shrink
supplied with the kit, splice the 10 gauge red wire from the Phantom Key to the
battery power wire. If you are doing this install on a vehicle equipped with a
Painless chassis harness this battery power wire may be printed with circuit
number #934.
Black- This wire is an input to the module. This wire provides a ground source to the
Phantom Key Module. It comes from a splice that also provides ground to the relays
which is all fed by the 10 gauge black wire found on the harness. This open ended 10
gauge black wire is printed “TO GROUND” and will connect to a good clean ground
source.
Route this 10 gauge Black wire to a clean ground source.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 10 gauge black wire coming from the
Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
Make your connection to ground using one of the ring terminals provided in the
kit. Your mounting bolt, or the large ¼” self tapping screw provided in the kit, will
determine which ring terminal you use. After the terminal has been crimped,
apply heat to shrink it over the wire insulation to complete the terminal
installation.
.
Purple- this wire is an output wire from the module. This wire provides a power source
to the starter solenoid. This open ended 12 gauge purple wire is printed “START
SIGNAL OUTPUT” and will splice onto the wire that originally sent power from the
ignition switch to the neutral safety switch/clutch switch and then out to the starter
solenoid.
Route this 12 gauge purple wire to the ignition switch or to the input side of the
neutral safety switch/clutch switch. If you do not have a neutral safety switch or
clutch switch Painless highly recommends using one and offers part # 80175 for
those with a GM 350, 400, or 700r4 transmission.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 12 gauge purple wire coming from the
Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.

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Using one of the large un-insulated butt splices and large piece of heat shrink
supplied with the kit, splice the 12 gauge Purple wire from the Phantom Key to
the Start Signal wire. If you are doing this install on a vehicle equipped with a
Painless chassis harness this wire going to the neutral safety/clutch switch may
be printed with circuit number #919.
Orange- This wire is an output from the module. This wire provides a switched power
source to the fuse block/chassis harness. This wire is intended to provide power to the
circuits that would have normally had power when the ignition switch was in the
“ON/RUN” position. These circuits include the turn signals, gauges, wipers, electric fuel
pump, and fuel injection computer if equipped. Connection of this wire depends on the
connection method you are using, as in removing the Ignition switch completely or using
one of the “QUICK CONNECT” methods on p. 15.
Route this 12 gauge orange wire printed “IGN POWER OUTPUT” to the
appropriate connection point according to the connection method you choose.
This will either be to the wire that provided power out of the ignition switch to the
fuse block, wire #933 on Painless chassis harnesses, or to the battery input side
of the ignition switch. Refer to the “Quick Connect” diagrams to clarify, p15.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 12 gauge purple wire coming from the
Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
Using one of the large un-insulated butt splices and large piece of heat shrink
supplied with the kit, splice the 12 gauge orange wire from the Phantom Key to
the appropriate wire of the Ignition switch according to the connection type you
are doing.
Pink/Black- This his wire is an output wire from the module. This wire provides a
switched power source to the ignition coil or ignition system. If you are using the
“QUICK CONNECT method, or if your ignition switch does not provide a coil/ignition
system wire, this wire will not be needed. It will need to have the open end taped up to
avoid it sorting to ground.
Route this 14 gauge pink/black wire printed “IGN/COIL POWER” towards the
ignition switch.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 14 gauge pink/black wire coming from
the Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
Using one of the large un-insulated butt splices and large piece of heat shrink
supplied with the kit, splice the 14 gauge pink/black wire from the Phantom Key
to the Coil power or ignition system power wire. This may be a large tan or pink
resistance wire which will look different from all the other factory wires going to
the ignition switch. If you are doing this install on a vehicle equipped with a
Painless chassis harness this wire going to the “Coil” fuse on the fuse block will
be printed with circuit number #931.

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Brown- This wire is an output wire from the module. Do not get this wire confused with
the brown wire from the Park Flash Relay. This wire provides a switched power source
to the fuse block/chassis harness. This wire is intended to provide power to the circuits
that would have normally had power when the ignition switch was in the “ACCESSORY”
position. These circuits include the heating & A/C and the radio. If you are using the
“Quick Connect Method Version 1” or your ignition switch does not have an
ACCESSORY position, this wire will not be needed. It will need to have the open end
taped up to avoid it shorting to ground.
Route this 12 gauge brown wire printed “ACCESSORY POWER OUTPUT”
towards the ignition switch.
Ensure your routing is correct and cut the 12 gauge brown wire coming from the
Phantom key to length and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
Using one of the large un-insulated butt splices and large piece of heat shrink
supplied with the kit, splice the 12 gauge brown wire from the Phantom Key to
the accessory power wire. If you are doing this install on a vehicle equipped with
a Painless chassis harness this wire going to the accessory circuits of fuse block
will be printed with circuit number #932.
GM Column Mounted Ignition Switch
Below you will see the connections needing to be made to a GM column
mounted ignition switch, as outlined in the instructions leading to this point. It was used
by GM throughout the 70’s, 80’s and into the 90’s. It is mentioned because the same
type of switch is used on most aftermarket steering columns.

19
Quick Connect Method
The “Quick Connect Method” can be used in connecting the wires of the Phantom
Key to the wires of the ignition switch ONLY IF a key is being used in the ignition
The “Quick Connect Method” of connecting the Phantom Key requires less wire
routing and less cutting of your existing chassis harness. One variation of connecting
the “Quick Connect” way, you will not be connecting the pink/black and brown wires of
the Phantom key and you will only be cutting 3 wires at the ignition switch instead of all
of them. This is because with the “Quick Connect Method” the wires from the ignition
switch providing power to the switched ignition and accessory circuits will not be
touched. You will be using the ignition switch and the factory wires as they were from
the factory.
Be advised that the accessory position of the stainless push button will have no
function if VERSION 1 of the quick connect method is used. VERSION 1 does not
require the brown wire of the Phantom Key harness to not be connected to the ignition
switch wiring, see the diagram on p.15. If the factory accessory wire is not touched, the
accessory position of the ignition switch will still function as it always has. The stainless
push button will need to be in the Ignition position and the factory ignition switch will
need to be in the “ACCESSORY” position for these functions to work. The Ignition
switch will need to be put back to the “ON/RUN” position in order for the vehicle‘s
ignition system to have power for vehicle start up.
Another variation is connecting the brown wire from the Phantom Key harness to the
Accessory wire of the ignition switch, VERSION 2. This will allow the Stainless push
button to have full control and have every function your factory ignition switch had. See
the diagram below.

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