Pyroclassic Fires PYROCLASSIC IV User manual

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
For PYROCLASSIC® IV
Your PYROCLASSIC® IV works in a different way than other fires.
We highly recommend that you read these instructions so that you will enjoy the unique
benefits of your Pyroclassic® IV.
PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO LIGHT YOUR FIRST FIRE, INSTEAD SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
SOMEWHERE FOR YOUR FUTURE REFERENCE.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Pyroclassic® fires have been in production for over 25 years here in New Zealand. Our experience,
along with other New Zealand manufacturers, is that most problems relating to obtaining
maximum efficiencies come from loading the fire with wet or damp firewood.
The New Zealand Home Heating Association report that as much as 95% of complaints received, are as a
result of poor fuel.
We strongly suggest that you read the section regarding Firewood.

PYROCLASSIC®IV OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Your PYROCLASSIC® IV works in a different way to other fires.
We highly recommend that you read these instructions so that you will enjoy the unique
benefits of your Pyroclassic® IV
FUEL TYPE WOOD LOGS ONLY
CAPABLE OF CONTINUOUS OPERATION USE ONLY RECOMMENDED FUELS
Maximum Fuel Load 9Kg DO NOT EXCEED
This appliance is not suitable for use in a shared flue
This appliance should not be operated with the loading door open
WARNING!! The appliance is designed to become hot during operation, so due care should be taken to
avoid contact with the external surfaces.
UK Test Results AS/NZS Test Results
NOMINAL HEAT OUTPUT 5.0kW 4.0kW
refueling interval 1.5hrs/2.4Kg
EFFICIENCY w/out boiler 72%gross 78.2%mean 74%
with boiler 75.4%gross 81.9%mean 65.3% (+18% water heating)
Space heating output w/out boiler 5.0kW
with boiler 4.2Kw
Water heating 1.6kW 18% efficiency >3.7kW
Flue Gas Temp 221°C-260°C @nominal heat output.
Flue gas mass flow 5.2g/s @ nominal heat output
Mean CO Emission (@13%O2) 0.15%
EMMISIONS RATE PM10 g/Kg 0.3 g/Kg w/out wetback
0.27 g/Kg with wetback
New Zealand Home Heating Association Maximum Average Output Test Method result 14.2kW
Australian Home Heating Association Solid Fuel Certificate of Compliance No.H633-0811 23/8/14
Water heating is by low pressure thermo syphon, maximum operating pressure 10 Bar, capacity of
wetback –½ litre, excess heat from the boiler to the domestic hot tank should be dissipated using a
“heat leak” radiator. A drain-cock must be fitted in the lowest part of the system. See separate
instructions for installation and use of the boiler system which can also be retrofitted by a qualified
engineer.
Min safe distances from unprotected combustible materials Back 350mm Side 480mm
(See technical specifications sheet on protection measures)
This appliance is not suitable for use in a shared flue system and should not be
operated in a room with another combustion heater. NOTE: There must not be an
extractor fan in the same room or space as the appliance as it may cause the stove
to emit fumes into the room.

IMPORTANT AND USEFUL INFORMATION FOR THE OWNER AND OPERATOR
Thank you for purchasing the Pyroclassic® IV freestanding wood fire. At Pyroclassic® Fires in New
Zealand we take pride in manufacturing this high quality, low emission fire which has enjoyed over
30 years of proven reliability and high efficiency .
To help you obtain all the benefits that the Pyroclassic® IV can offer, we ask you to ensure that the
following four important steps are performed:
The Pyroclassic® IV should always be installed by a qualified installer and we require that
your warranty card is duly completed by that person and returned to the relevant address.
The appliance also requires regular maintenance by a competent engineer.
The wood you use in the Pyroclassic® IV should be a good quality, dry wood with a
moisture content of 25% or less, 12% to 18% is ideal for clean efficient heat. We have
provided a digital moisture meter with your fire and have dedicated a complete page of
useful information on the quality of wood fuel.
The operating instructions are full of interesting information that even an experienced
fire lighter will find useful, please read them .
The warranty card needs to be signed by both the installer and you as the purchaser
and sent back to us at either;
Northern Hemisphere
Pyroclassic® Fires Ltd.
72 Hill Top Avenue, Cheadle Hulme, Cheshire, SK8 7JA,United Kingdom.
Southern Hemisphere
Pyroclassic® Fires Ltd.
917 Karamu Road North, Hastings, Hawkes Bay, 4122, New Zealand

TOOLS and ACCESSORIES SUPPLIED WITH PYROCLASSIC® IV FIRE
CURVED RAKE AND SHOVEL
A 710mm long curved rake is supplied. It has a curved edge to match the shape of the fire chamber, which will allow
easy movement of the ashes and hot char inside the cylindrical fire chamber. A similarly curved shovel is also supplied
which will allow easy removal of ash once it has cooled down to a safe temperature.
RE-USABLE FIRE STARTERS
Two re-usable fire starters are supplied. (See section “YOU’RE NOW READY FOR YOUR FIRST FIRE”) please note:
Never soak a HOT fire starter in methylated spirits
Place the soaked fire starter in the front of the fire chamber just underneath the front of your kindling.
When fire has started use tongs to remove and place somewhere safe to cool down.
When fire starter is COLD, place into jar of methylated spirits.
Warning: NEVER leave methylated spirits near the lit fire, NEVER add spirit to a hot fire starter and
NEVER squirt spirit or any liquid fuels directly into the fire chamber.
LOCATION RESTRAINTS
If the Pyroclassic® IV is not installed on the Pyroclassic® raised hearth then, if required, you can use the two angle iron
restraints that measure 50mm x 50mm with the 2 8x20mm bolts which are supplied as location restraints. These are
attached to the slots provided in the back plate of the Pyroclassic® IV fire to suitable anchoring points on the floor.
DIGITAL MOISTURE METER
The moisture meter is intended to be used regularly throughout the drying process, from when you first get your wood
fuel delivered right through to just before burning it. It will allow you know exactly what the moisture content of the
wood fuel you are using is and it will ensure that if used correctly your new fire will be able to perform well. Poor
quality wood fuel is the number 1 cause of issues with all wood fires and flue systems.
WARRANTY FORMS
Please make sure that both copies of your warranty paperwork have been fully filled out with all your details, the details
of who you purchased the fire from, and your installer’s details for both the fire and the wetback if applicable.

FIREWOOD (A MUST READ)
Any wood burner not operating properly creates high emissions and will not heat your home properly. Simple methods
to ensure clean burning and efficient heating are:
Plan Ahead.
Stock up on your wood fuel at least 6-12 months before winter to allow the wood to air dry ensuring you burn dry well
seasoned wood. By checking with your moisture meter you may find that longer drying times may be necessary.
Any firewood from 25mm to 100mm (1” to 4”) in diameter cut up 350mm (14”) to 450mm (17”) lengths is good fuel.
Shorter pieces are less efficient and not as convenient to use. When practical insist on nice long dry logs.
Let your wood merchant know what you want for your money.
Do not burn wet or green wood, plastic, domestic refuse, painted or chemically treated wood, plywood, driftwood,
particle board or coal in your Pyroclassic® IV –they will damage your fire.
Stack wood loosely in a dry place so air can pass freely through the pile.
NEVER use driftwood, painted or chemically treated wood as these release dioxins when they burn.
Burn smaller, hotter fires which are more efficient.
Observe the position of the load limiter bars in your wood burner to avoid placing too much wood in
the fire, although it will be necessary to stock up the firebox to achieve an overnight burn of 10 hours
plus.
CAUTION:
THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS OR PLACE THESE IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE WHEN
IT IS OPERATING.
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN THE HEATER INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH THESE
INSTRUCTIONS.
THERE SHOULD BE NO UNAUTHORIZED MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE.
REPLACEMENT PARTS SHOULD BE ONLY THOSE RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

OPERATING USE AND MAINTAINANCE
USE OF TURBOSLIDE
The Turboslide is the part on the front of your fire with the Pyroclassic® IV name on it, it covers a hole that allows start up
air to enter quickly to get your fire going. To open the hole move the Turboslide to either the left or right; the open hole
works like a pair of old fashioned bellows. When your fire has caught and is going well, cover the hole with the Turboslide
by putting it into the middle position. To make sure the Turboslide works well, remember to keep a very small area around
the hole (i.e. the very front part of the fire chamber) free of ash or char. Simply push back the build-up a little with the
rake –it doesn’t have to be much just enough to keep the hole clear and let it work how it should. If the hole is clogged
it will not work as and the fire may be hard to start. A little bit of housekeeping pays off with a quick starting, free
breathing hot fire.
IMPORTANT: THE TURBOSLIDE IS FOR THE INITIAL START-UP OF FIRES AND FOR USE TO HELP IGNITE FRESH FUEL IF
REQUIRED ONLY. ONCE A HOT FIRE HAS BECOME ESTABLISHED, CLOSE THE TURBOSLIDE AIR SUPPLY HOLE BY SLIDING
THE TURBOSLIDE TO THE MIDDLE POSITION. YOU WILL ENJOY LOW EMISSIONS, HIGH THERMAL EFFICIENCY AND
CONSERVE YOUR WOOD SUPPLY.
NOT FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE AIRTUBES AND OTHER METAL COMPONENTS
INSIDE THE FIRE CHAMBER.
LOADING FIRE WOOD
The door allows you to insert logs in the only correct way for burning wood –lengthwise. For best results do not insert
wood sideways! Wood grows from the ground up, not parallel with the ground. For best results you should burn it from
end to end, along the grain. Across the grain wood is nature’s best insulation, good for building houses and to resist fire.
LOAD LIMITER
Inside, along the top of the fire chamber is a load limiter, this is designed to restrict the operator from overloading the
fire chamber. A tip for using your Pyroclassic® IV responsibly (low emissions/no smoky fires) is to burn small hotter fires.
Add wood as required, this is how you can control the heat output of your fire.
CONTINUOUS AND OVERNIGHT OPERATION
The Pyroclassic® IV is a heat store and fast, small fires store surplus heat in the refractories, the unit then continues heating
like an electric storage heater. For overnight burns, ensure you have a good hot, glowing ember bed all the way from the
back of the firebox, load the firebox with sizable logs about 45 minutes before bed time and open the Turboslide to boost
the air supply to the fresh fuel load, when you have hot, bright flames established close the Turboslide. In this way you
get all the available heat out of your firewood. In the morning, draw hot ember out of the ash, raking it to the front of
the firebox, but remember to keep the Turboslide hole clear to allow air in to rekindle the fire, (works like a pair of
bellows). Add some kindling and a few larger pieces on top, then with the Turboslide open, you should have a roaring fire
in less than 10 minutes. You may not be able to maintain a long overnight fire with certain soft woods.
AIR SUPPLY
The room or space containing this appliance needs no additional ventilation unless a draught stabilizer is fitted, in which
case a permanent opening of at least 1500m2should be provided. Any air opening must be kept clear from blockage and
obstruction. Due consideration should be given to air requirements for any other appliances in the same room or home,
such as heat transfer kits, kitchen range hoods, laundry dryers, bathroom vents etc.

OPERATING USE AND MAINTAINANCE
REFUELLING ONTO A LOW FIREBED
The woodfuel inside a Pyroclassic® IV fire burns best on a thin bed of ash and hot coals, however if there is insufficient
burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refuelling must be carried
out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period, add
suitable kindling if necessary. If a new fuel load is left without suitable ignition then a buildup of unburnt volatile gases
can occur, this can cause the unit to be put under stress when these gases eventually do combust causing a possible
internal explosion.
Always ensure adequate combustion and ignition of fuel and use the Turboslide as instructed.
PYROCLASSIC® IV IS SELF-REGULATING.
The vigorous fire near the loading door automatically slows down as the burning front advances through the firebox
towards the back. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the firebox. Only use the Turboslide when
lighting, adding fresh fuel or if you quickly want a very vigorous fire.
The Pyroclassic® IV not only provides heat soon after start up but it also stores a lot of the heat from burning your wood,
you will get most of this heat back over several hours. Frequent reloading may result in high room temperatures but you
will soon know how much and how often to add fuel, the best heater output control is how much and how often you do
this. The Pyroclassic® IV is designed to save on firewood and to keep emission levels to the minimum by storing the
surplus heat which normally goes up the chimney; this heat is still being released into the room even when the fire is low
at the end of each burn cycle.
REFUELLING and using the CURVED RAKE PROVIDED
Use the rake to evenly distribute the hot ember and ash along the base of the fire box, ensuring that there is sufficient
hot ember at the front to provided adequate ignition to the fresh fuel load. Load the fresh fuel so that the logs are loaded
lengthways and that one end of each log is in contact with the back wall of the firebox, if you keep your fire burning under
the metal airtubes which run along the top of the cylinder, then this will ensure that the maximum amount for heat is
captured within the ceramic cylinder as the hot gases have the most distance to travel before entering the flue, this allows
the whole fire to retain as much heat as possible. When raking, avoid plugging the Turboslide inlet with char or ash (this
is the hole covered externally by the Turboslide below the door). Using other tools may cause damage to the ceramic
cylinder, always take care not to impact the ceramic surface.
DOOR/DOORKNOB
DO NOT run the fire with the door open, it will never reach the correct operating temperature and can be very dangerous.
To protect the door gasket and allow the door to be opened easily, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DOORKNOB. As the door
seals with little pressure it may become hard to open when the unit is very hot. Load it after it cools down, the door then
opens easily.
If you are finding the door knob too hot when trying to refuel your fire then you are probably trying to refuel too soon,
the door knob is a great indicator of what’s happening with your fire so if you can’t reload then you don’t need to yet.
If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring then you are probably burning your fire too continuously near the
back of the door and possibly need to close the Turboslide sooner and let the fire burn further back in the fire chamber.
Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand up when it is open as this can cause the door to move, if
your door does become misaligned then you will need to loosen the top bolt going horizontally through the
hinge bar and lift the door back into the correct position for the spindle to line up and then re tighten the bolt.
AIR INLETS
DO NOT block any fixed air inlets, this can result in damage to the fire.

OPERATING USE AND MAINTAINANCE
BURNING WITH THE PYROCLASSIC® IV
Solid wood must change to gas and vapour before any burning can take place. This change occurs by heating wood to
high temperatures to make the best gas fuel, low temperatures will make smoke and tars that are simply unburnt fuel.
The Pyroclassic® IV is a North/South burning fire so the fire is started in the front of the fire chamber and continues along
the length of the wood to the rear, to make the best use of your firewood please ensure logs are placed ‘lengthways’ into
the fire chamber –NOT sideways. Your objective is to achieve a high temperature in the fire chamber quickly, which is
easy using the Turboslide and dry wood, you will never get the fire to burn correctly if you try starting fires with green or
wet wood. The only fuel authorised for use with this appliance within Urban Clean Air Sheds and Smoke Control Zones is
well seasoned wood with a moisture content of 25% or less on wet weight basis, 12-18% is ideal.
GREASING THE DOORKNOB SPINDLE
A small amount of graphite grease should be applied sparingly and only occasionally to the spindle of the doorknob, twice
a year is usually sufficient. Ashes from the fire have a gritty texture and over time this can cause wear on the doorknob
spindle. Use a tiny amount of grease to lubricate the groove in the first thread of the spindle which can be applied with a
matchstick or cocktail stick. NB: only a small amount is needed, if too much is used it will melt and dribble down causing
an unsightly stain, be sure to remove any excess before relighting the unit.
CLEANING THE DOOR GLASS
The air wash over the door should keep the glass clean, a dirty glass is a sign of a fire that is not getting hot enough,
normally caused by trying to burn unseasoned or unsuitable wood. If your door glass needs cleaning scrunch up 2 pieces
of damp newspaper, dip one in cold fire ashes and rub over the inside of glass, use the other one to rub over the glass to
clean the dirt off. If you allow the ash to build up on your glass it will be difficult to clean, do it in the morning before
rekindling the fire; the glass will be cooler at this time. If your fire is operating correctly then your door glass should have
a light white cloudy appearance. To keep the glass clear, get into the habit of cleaning it regularly as this will maintain the
glass and prevent ashes from being fused onto the glass due to intense heat in the firebox.
CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS
FLUE & FLUE CLEANING/CHIMNEY SWEEPS
The Pyroclassic® IV flue will not foul up unless you are burning wet wood, burning fuel with an inadequate air supply, or
when the firebox does not reach normal operating temperature. The flue should be swept at least once a year or more
frequently if necessary (i.e. if you notice smoke coming out of the open door), the flue should be swept from the top
down, because the Pyroclassic® IV is different to other fires do not allow the chimney sweep to dismantle the chimney or
take the cook top off unless they are sure that they know what they are doing. All that is normally necessary is to push a
brush from the top of the chimney down the flue. If the fire only has a light amount of soot then this can be left where it
falls in the top chamber and just burnt up the next time you run your fire.
Before relighting the fire after a prolonged shutdown, the flue should be checked for any blockages such as birds nesting
in the chimney.
CHIMNEY SWEEPS
The flue may soot up if you don’t run the fire correctly, and the chimney should be swept at least once a year, however,
do not allow chimney sweeps to take the fire apart. The Pyroclassic® IV should be swept from the top down; if excess
buildup has occurred then it may be necessary to remove the top plate from the fire to empty out the top chamber.

YOU’RE NOW READY FOR YOUR FIRST FIRE
Your first fire may give a poor performance and the fire may even go out. Do not be alarmed!
This is due to the ceramic firebox drying out. The ceramic contains a small amount of moisture and
needs heat to dry out. You may even notice a small amount of moisture appear under your fire on the
hearth after the first burn, this is normal. It can take a number of firings to fully cure the ceramic cylinder
before full performance of the fire can be achieved.
During the first firing the special heat-resistant paint cures, this may result in smoke and odour being
given off. It does not last for long and will not happen again, but it is a very good idea to ensure adequate
ventilation in the room during the first firings.
STARTING YOUR FIRST FIRE
1. Soak the reusable fire starters in Methylated spirits. We recommend you store them in an airtight jar
filled with Meths.
2. Slide the Turboslide to the far right or far left position. This opens the air hole inside the door and allows
air to flow through acting like an old fashioned pair of bellows.
3. Place DRY kindling and a few small logs lengthways in the front of the fire chamber leaving a clear space
in front of the air inlet hole.
4. Place a soaked fire starter just under the kindling at the front of the fire chamber and light it. Try to avoid
dripping Meths on to any surface when doing this as it can discolour some hearth materials.
5. Close the door.
6. Once the fire is burning really well and you have a nice bed of hot embers move the Turboslide to the
central position (to cover the air inlet hole), this can be done slowly in several stages if preferred.
7. When opening the door to load more wood slide the Turboslide to the far left or right open position,
and continue as in number 6.
NB: The fire starter can be retrieved from the fire once it has stopped burning.
Use metal tongs to retrieve the fire starter and place on a non-combustible surface
i.e. a block of stone, concrete or a tile. When cold it can be placed inside the jar of
Methylated spirits ready for the next firing.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
SLOW STARTUP
Turboslide (air inlet slide closed). Open the Turboslide by moving to either the left or right.
Check that the start-up hole is free of ash and char on the inside, push back any build-up with the rake. The start-up
air supply hole allows air to enter the fire chamber like a pair of old fashioned bellows, if the hole is clogged with ash
and char it will not work. A little bit of housekeeping pays off with a quick free-breathing start-up fire.
Check for air leakage around the cook top, around the flue collar, and in the flue pipe joints. Air bypassing the fire
chamber reduces draft. Repair air leaks.
Large wet logs loaded on few remaining hot coals; use dry kindling to start fire quickly. DO NOT USE WET FUEL.
Insufficient draft. Review chimney construction and investigate air pressure levels in the home.
Warm, humid conditions outside or an inversion layer. Wait until the flue pipe heats-up.
DENSE SMOKE
Plastic materials, fire retardant-treated wood or high resin content wet wood loaded in fire chamber. Burn seasoned
wood only ensuring it is positioned lengthwise in the firebox
Hot fire chamber was overloaded with wood treated with fire retardant. Do not use such fuel.
EARLY MORNING PALE BLUE SMOKE
Caused by burning off small creosote deposits formed by premature banking of the fire the night before.
SMOKE ENTERS ROOM
Negative pressure in the room –possibly caused by household electric exhaust fan or severe pressure difference in a
windstorm. Open window to equalise the pressure.
Severe down draft due to surrounding structures, hills, trees or roof layout.
Flue is plugged up. Clear the obstruction and investigate cause.
GASES & SMOKE ENTER ROOM WHEN DOOR IS OPENED
Flue is plugged-up, may require sweeping
Loading door opened during maximum degassing of fuel. Wait until flames disappear.
Very cold flue temperature, allow initial start up fire to warm flue pipes.
HIGH FUEL CONSUMPTION
Loading door is not airtight. Check the gasket.
Incorrect operation. Operator forgetting the unit’s heat storage capacity. Add logs less often. Burn fuel further back
in the fire chamber.
Turboslide being left open for long periods.
LOW WATER HEATING CAPACITY
A poor performing, low temp fire. This could be caused by one of the points raised above.
Hotflow wetback incorrectly fitted. Check the layout, system must have continuous rise once installed.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
DOORKNOB CHARRING
This will naturally happen slowly over many years use, however the process can be undesirably accelerated by the
user burning with the Turboslide open continuously and having the fire right up to the front near the door, please
read the operating instructions again and use the Pyroclassic® IV correctly.
HAIRLINE CRACKS APPEAR IN FIREBOX
This is a natural way to relieve built-up stress in refractories; it has no effect on operation, performance, or useful life
of the unit. The firebox is an arch structure, the most stable and permanent construction known. These cracks will
develop over time.
BACK PUFFING OR MINOR GAS EXPLOSION
Rake not used to bring hot char forward, wood burning at the wrong end. Use the rake as per Operating Instructions.
Turboslide not opened after re-loading large cold logs.
Explosive substance, battery, aerosol container, etc. loaded into the fire chamber. Don’t do it, this is very dangerous!!
Insufficient bed of coals to ensure adequate ignition of fresh fuel load.
Too high moisture content of wood fuel.
NOISY OR PULSATING WATER HEATING
Improperly constructed water-heating circuit. Check the layout. Re-read your copy of the Wetback Instructions.
UNABLE TO KEEP FIRE OVERNIGHT
Loading door not airtight or Turboslide left open.
Using too small sticks of low density wood (softwoods).
DOOR LOCK HARD TO OPERATE
Apply a small amount of high temperature grease to thread as per instructions. (grease with graphite or molybdenum
disulphide only).
Over tightening the door spindle thread. Door seals with minimum pressure. Do not over tighten. Over tightening
the door handle shortens gasket life.
The Pyroclassic® IV is trying to tell you “wait – no need to load me now”. Do not reload an already very hot fire.
ASH SPILLS & DE-ASHING
De-ash when fire chamber is relatively cool/cold. Use curved shovel to slowly empty the fire chamber. Ash almost
always contains some hot ember. Never use a vacuum cleaner. Obtain a metal (non-combustible) ash container with
a lid. Store outside on concrete or bare ground.
Pot Ash can be great for your garden if your soils are acidic, use only ash from a cooled fire which used good quality
wood.

SAFTEY NOTES FOR YOUR GUIDANCE
Fires can be dangerous –Always use a fireguard in the presence of children, the elderly or the infirm.
In New Zealand and Australia AS/NZS 2918:2001 guidelines should be followed.
In the UK the fireguard should be manufactured in accordance with BS 6539 –Fireguards for use with solid
fuel appliances.
Overfiring –It is almost impossible to overfire your Pyroclassic® beyond its design capacity as the firebox will
withstand temperatures in excess of 1500oC but if any part of your stove starts to glow red, ensure the
Turboslide is closed and allow the fire to die down over a long period of time, you will be unable to refuel it
during this period due to high temperatures around the loading door.
Fume Emission –Properly installed and operated this appliance will not emit fumes. Persistent fume
emission must not be tolerated as it indicates a problem and the following action must be taken:-
1. Open doors and windows to ventilate the room.
2. Let the fire die out or safely eject and dispose of the fuel in the appliance.
3. Check the chimney for blockage and clean if required.
4. If necessary seek professional advice.
IN THE EVENT OF A CHIMNEY FIRE
1. Raise the alarm and let others in the house know.
2. Call the relevant emergency services.
3. Move furniture and rugs away from the appliance if possible.
4. Get out.
THANK YOU FOR PURCHASING ONE OF OUR FIRES PLEASE ENJOY YOUR
PYROCLASSIC® IV REMEMBER IT LOVES HIGH FIRE CHAMBER TEMPERATURES
Manufactured by: European Distribution by:
Pyroclassic®Fires Ltd Pyroclassic®Fires Ltd
917 Karamu Road North 72 Hill Top Avenue
Hastings Cheadle Hulme
Hawkes Bay 4122 Cheshire SK8 7JA
New Zealand UK
Ph.+64 (0)6 877 0175 Ph.+44 (0)161 485 3356
Fx.+64 (0)6 877 7501 mob. [phone]
[email protected] [email protected]
www.pyroclassic.co.nz www.pyroclassic.co.uk