Quantum STAR 2003 Quick start guide

STAR
TUNING GUIDE
2003
Quantum San Diego

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QUQU
QUANTUM STANTUM ST
ANTUM STANTUM ST
ANTUM STAR TUNING GUIDEAR TUNING GUIDE
AR TUNING GUIDEAR TUNING GUIDE
AR TUNING GUIDE
Quantum Star Sails are designed to accept a wide range of conditions. By
controlling cloth stretch with panel orientation and clew and head designs, our
sails will have a powerful light air shape, but will open and flatten in a breeze. This
not only makes our sails faster, but easier to set up. Another result of this
construction is that our sails will be more durable.
These are some suggestions for tuning to get the best speed from your Quantum
Star Sails. Following the Table of Contents is a quick set up guide that includes
all the critical measurements. This should get you going quickly and if you wish to
go into more detail you can.
These are suggestions and guidelines currently working for us. You may find other
ways to get speed from your particular boat in your conditions. There is certainly
more than one way to set up a Star. Check out our web pages at
wwwwww
wwwwww
www.quantumsails.quantumsails
.quantumsails.quantumsails
.quantumsails.com/star.com/star
.com/star.com/star
.com/star for the latest up to date information.
Mark Reynolds and George Szabo

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Quick Set up Guide ............................................1
2. Rig Tuning ..........................................................3
a) Intermediates
b) Spreader Angle
c) Shrouds
d) Mast Butt
e) Shroud Cars
f) Jibstay
3. Mainsail Trim ......................................................6
a) Mainsheet
b) Outhaul
c) Cunningham
d) Main Traveler
e) Boom Vang
f) Mast forward adjustment at deck
g) Sliding Mast Butt
4. Jib Trim ...............................................................10
a) Jib Shape
b) Jib Sheet
c) Jibstay
d) Jib Halyard
e) Jib Lead Fore and Aft
f) Jib Lead In and Out
g) Jib Tack
h) Backstay and Rake Effect on Jib
5. Backstays...........................................................13
a) Track System
b) Under the deck system
c) Adjusting
6. Rigging a new mast ...........................................16
7. Sail Care ..............................................................17
a) Raising and Lowering the Sails
b) Folding and Storage

1. QUICK SET UP GUIDE
1. Rig Tuning
Intermediates - Between 73 mm (2 7/8") and 76 mm (3"). We suggest starting at
2 15/16" (75mm).
Spreader sweep back - Set at 127mm (5") to 139mm (5.5")
Shrouds - Uppers should be 23- 24 on the Pro Loos Gauge (31- 32 on the old
silver Loos Gauge). This is tight enough that they just barely slide on the tracks
with the mast laid all the way forward. Lowers should be looser. If you measure
up the mast 915 mm (36") and then measure across from shroud to shroud it
should measure close to 735 mm (29").
Mast butt - 4500 mm (14’9). With the rig in measuring position the forward edge
of the boom band should be even to 38 mm (1.5") past the stern.
Jib stay - The jibstay (rake) should be set about 410 mm (16") to 435 mm (17").
Most new boats take closer to 435 mm (17"). The boom should end up about 200
mm (8") off the deck in 8- 10 knots.
2. Mainsail Trim
Mainsheet - The top batten should line up with the boom. Have a reference
point with a mark on the mainsheet or judge the distance off the deck and
experiment with boats around you until you get a good feel where the right point
is. Change trim as conditions or your steering changes.
Outhaul - The outhaul has a small range of adjustment when beating and usually
will be set once for the beat and left alone. Make sure it is easy to adjust so you
can adjust if necessary. Have a mark on the line at the cleat for a reference. The
main should be pulled to the band in wind above 10 knots. In lighter air, ease 25
mm (1") or in very choppy conditions, a little more. Off the wind, ease to add
fullness.
Boom vang - The vang should be set reaching and running so the top batten is
in line with the boom.
Mast lever - Usually no mast lever needs to be used upwind.
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3. Jib Trim
Jib Shape - In most conditions the leech should trim to mark on spreaders (458
mm (18") off the side of the mast) with just a little shape in the foot.
Jib lead fore and aft - The lead usually ends up about 2200 mm (86.5") from the
headstay.
Jib lead in and out - Jib cars should be set 356 mm (14") from the center line
Jib tack - Set halyard so jib is as low as possible
4. Backstays
Upwind
Lower - With the crew in the cockpit, no tension. With the crew on the
deck, just a little tension. When the crew drops over pull more. When overpow-
ered, you may have to ease slightly. Too much lower will make a bubble at the
mast which will backwind. You will feel the helm increase as the lower is pulled
on. The key is to have the boat feel good and watch the boats around you to
check your speed. Generally more lower will keep the crew over the side in
marginal conditions and help pointing.
Upper- The upper should be just snug. As you get overpowered then
start to pull on the upper.
Offwind
Reaching - When reaching, ease the upper backstays enough to make
the mast straight.
Running - On the run let it off far enough so that the mast just starts to
reverse with the lever on all the way. In light wind with a 3-1 purchase system
you will go up to 1525 mm (60") off. In strong wind don’t go as far!
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2. RIG TUNING
Your rig pretty much gets tuned before the boat goes in the water. In this next
section we pretty much describe what you need to do in the correct order. Both
the intermediates and the spreader angle need to be adjusted before the mast
goes in the boat. After stepping the mast you will check the other measure-
ments. The final check will be on the water primarily checking your side bend by
looking up the back and front of the mast when sailing upwind in different
conditions. The best way to judge your side bend is by taking a photograph
from straight behind and tipping it on edge and checking the sidebend. The goal
is to make sure the mast is straight or even slightly bent to leeward in the middle.
A little bend to leeward in the middle can power up the boat some. In light to
moderate wind the rig should look like it’s sagging to leeward in the middle a little
when viewed up the back of the mast with your head at the boom. When looking
up the front of the mast it should look as straight as possible. The side bend is
affected by four points. The uppers, the intermediates, the lowers and the mast
partner. The intermediates control the side bend from the spreaders to the jib
intersection. Looser intermediates tend to be better in light air and choppy
conditions.
A) Intermediates (mast down)
Assuming your intermediates don't come to the deck you need to adjust them
before the mast goes in and before attaching them to the spreaders. Pull the
upper shroud down along the front of the mast and mark the bearing point on the
mast. If you have a Spar Tech mast be sure to include the small spacer that goes
inside the upper. Measure down from this point and make another mark to adjust
your intermediates to. This should be between 73 mm (2 7/8") and 76 mm (3").
Most are now 74 mm (2 15/16"). Lighter crews may want to go slightly tighter in
areas of stronger winds. Now pull the intermediates down and adjust so that the
inside bearing point is in line with this mark. Make sure you tighten the locking
nut but also don't overtighten as this fitting is a bit fragile. Further adjustments
may have to be made after sailing, especially with a new mast where the wires
may settle in some. It seems that the upper swedge loops elongate slightly.
B) SpreaderAngle (mast down)
You should check your spreader angle for two things. Check to see if they swing
back to the same angle on both sides and measure the sweep back. After
installing the spreaders tie a
small line or shockcord between
the tips even with the shroud
bolts and check the sweep of
the spreaders. The measure-
ment from the mast to the line
should be about 127 mm (5"). If
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4
they sweep back more it will require a little more lower backstay but makes it
easier to get bend in light air. If your spreader doesn’t come back as far on one
side you will need less lower on that tack. Check that they are even with the
same line from tip to tip. It should be parallel to the side top of the mast butt
plug. This can be checked best by
laying a batten on the butt plug and
lining it up with the line between the
spreaders. You can also check this in
the boat by pulling hard enough on
the forward lever to bring the
spreaders back to their stops. Check
to see if they hit simultaneously. The
mast manufactures usually do a good
job with these measurements but
they can change over time.
If your spreaders don't already have a mark put a jib trim mark on the spreaders
457 mm (18") out from the side of the
mast. I use a felt tip pen or tape to put a
1" band around the spreader. In winds
under 18 knots the jib leech will line up
with this mark. In more wind it will be
slightly outside.
Before standing up the mast check the screws at the jib box, wipe the wires off
and tie on the shockcord to keep the backstays from catching the spreader tips.
Put on your mast head fly if you use one and stand the mast up.
C) Shrouds
After the mast goes in lay it forward and hook up the headstay and slide on the
lower and upper shrouds. With the right upper tension, the uppers should just
slide on the shroud track with the mast in the forward position. If the uppers are
too tight then the mast will have too much prebend in light air and the spreaders
may pop forward when sailing on a broad reach. Your shrouds will also cut in the
main going down wind. If they are too loose then the whole rig will not be
upright in the boat. The lowers should be fairly loose. Now hook up and set the
backstays. Put on enough forward lever to pop the mast in a positive bend and
check that the lower backstays are loose and that the upper backstays have the
same amount of tension. Set them at 5 units on the Loos gauge. Then by using
a tape measure hooked on the main halyard measure down to the chine to see
that the mast is centered and check the mast at the partner. I think it’s best to
have at least 3 mm (1/8") of space on both sides of the mast.
A helpful method for monitoring upper stay tension is using the small model
Loos gauge. A good starting point 23 to 24 on the new Pro Loos gauge (31 or 32

on the old Loos gauge). The new gauge tends to be more accurate from gauge
to gauge but we have still found some that read as much as 2 units different. Be
sure to setup the boat consistently when taking this measurement. First put 5
units on the backstays. The mast bender should be neutral and the spreaders
swung back in the upwind position.
For the lowers measure from the top of the band at the boom up the mast 915 mm
(36") and make a mark. Then measure across from shroud to shroud it should
measure close to 735 mm (29"). It may have to be adjusted on the water to get
mast straight. Lighter crews or for sailing in constant moderate winds you may
want to tighten a little on the lowers to reduce power.
The shroud tension varies slightly between top boats but the common goal is to
make sure that the mast is straight sideways when sailing upwind. When sailing
upwind in 6 knots, the leeward upper just loosens so in wind above 6 knots the
uppers do not affect prebend. The lowers can be fine tuned when sailing to make
sure the mast is straight sideways. Normally when the right position is found no
further adjustments are necessary regardless of wind strength.
D) Mast Butt
If you have a new boat start out with the builder’s suggested mast step location.
On my Folli I sail with the mast in Folli’s standard location which is 4502 mm (14’9
1/4") from the transom/deck intersection to the center of the aft mast step bolt.
Light crews may want the mast a little forward compared with heavy crews. This
will help balance the helm from more healing.
After stepping the mast, the mast butt location can be quickly checked. With the
jibstay connected and backstays set, the forward edge of the outhaul boom band
will be even with the stern, or slightly behind the stern. On my Folli the band is
35 mm (1.5") behind the stern. On the Mader you will find the band about even
with the stern. Make sure that the mast is straight with the spreaders back and
not reversed when you check this. You may need some forward lever on. At the
same time I check the shroud car position.
E) Shroud Cars
I put the lowers just in line with the front of the mast and the uppers an inch or
5
Shrouds cont...

two forward of the lowers. If you don't have a method of loosening the shrouds
for downwind (with
adjustable tracks, levers or
a sliding mast butt) putting
the uppers further forward
will allow them to loosen
more as the mast goes
forward.
F) Jibstay
The jibstay (rake) should be set between 384 mm (15") to 435 mm (17") from the
clevis pin to the deck. You need to take some care in using this measurement.
Some boats have different shear heights, mast lengths, forestay locations and
the forestays may vary. My headstay is 117 mm (4 5/8") longer than the point B
punch mark on the front of the mast. On the Melges and Gerard the rake will be
about 406 mm (16") and for Folli’s, Lillia’s, and Mader’s about 432 mm (17").
Boats made in the last 10 years have the headstay further forward than the older
boats so the measurement is slightly longer. My
headstay is currently 429 (16 7/8"). Use these
measurements for a reference and watch the boom
height off the deck in various conditions. In medium
conditions you should normally be about 152 mm -
203 mm (6"- 8") off the deck. In light air the boom will
be 203 mm-305 mm (8" to 12") off the deck. I don't
adjust my jibstay during the race. As you change
your rake you affect many things including main-
sheet tension, backstay tension, jib halyard, and jib lead position. It can get very
complicated and it’s easy to get really messed up.
3. MAINSAIL TRIM
A) Mainsheet
The mainsheet control is the most important control on the boat. Often it may be
the only control you adjust on the windward leg. The mainsheet needs to be
adjusted every time you get a wind velocity change, a change in water condi-
tions, when the helmsman falls in or out of the groove and sometimes when
tacking. The other time the mainsheet gets adjusted is just to experiment to see if
a change will produce more speed.
We start out by pulling in the main until the sail “looks right” and “feels right”.
The “looks right” position is from previous experience and what we have learned
from others as the correct look. The “feels right” position also comes from
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7
previous experience and what input we are feeling at the time from the boat. If the
tiller is telling us that we have too much weather helm maybe the mainsheet is too
tight. Getting the trim right takes experience and experimentation.
The mainsheet is similar to the jibsheet. As we trim tighter, the twist is reduced
and the sail flattens. The mainsail flattens through increased mast bend rather
than a pulling aft on the foot like the jib. We have given that control to the
outhaul on the mainsail. What we are concentrating most on is the twist. The
general rule on the Star, like most boats, is to line up the top batten with the
boom. This means that the bottom batten points up the most with each batten
dropping down until the aft end of the top batten is parallel to the boom. In very
light air it will hook up some from the weight of the boom. In very heavy air it will
twist off a bit to leeward to de-power. This is where the experimenting comes in.
Every condition takes a little different trim. Bill Buchan felt one key to his
success in the 1984 Olympics was knowing how to trim his main. The weeks of
tuning in Long Beach before the Olympics had helped narrow down the range for
the correct place for the mainsheet. The next year in Nassau when Bill won the
Worlds he said he had started the regatta with the mark on his mainsheet moving
though a large range and through the week that range narrowed as he found the
fastest position. The key is to constantly watch the boats around you and try
different trim until you begin to learn what is too tight and what is too loose. A
mark on the mainsheet is very handy here so you can reproduce this trim on the
next weather leg or at a later date. You must be careful though because condi-
tions change and with it your trim must also. What worked for Bill in Long Beach
wasn’t exactly what was needed in Nassau.
Like all controls on the boat you want the mainsheet to be as friction free as
possible and to have the proper purchase. All new boats now have the main-
sheet going right to the transom. This gives as much leverage as possible and
allows the boom to be trimmed closer to the center line. There are two different
systems used for the mainsheet. The most popular is the single system that
starts on the aft end of the boom goes down to the boat, back to the boom,
forward to mid boom and down to a ratchet and cleat. The advantage of this
system is that it is simple and it allows a mark to be put on the line for reference.
The other system is the double mainsheet. Instead of stopping at the aft end of
the boom it goes through a pulley and goes back forward to mid boom and down
to another ratchet and a double cleat. The advantage of this system is that both
lines can be pulled simultaneously cutting the purchase in half. It is much faster
for mark rounding, jibing and pumping. When fine tuning, only one line is
pulled, giving a bit more purchase than the single system although hardly a
noticeable amount. The big disadvantage is that you make a reference mark on
the line. Whatever system you use, make sure that the blocks all line up and if
you go inside the boom, that the lead is straight. Some people have gone back
outside the boom to make sure no friction is added. If you do this put webbing
around the mainsheet so when jibing you will not get hung up.

As you discover the best trim for your main put a mark on the sheet for reference.
If you have a double mainsheet look at the distance of the boom off the deck at
the transom. When you go around the leeward mark or start the next race you
can get in the ball park much faster. I’ve found that after I get a good feel for the
boat and see how far I’m off the deck (I have the double mainsheet) I rarely look
up at the sail. I may try a little more or less trim when I’m around another boat
and if it works I’ll then look at the distance off the deck again and then maybe
also look at the sail. Tuning before the start is a good place to experiment to see
what the best trim for the day is.
When you are going to windward and are really in the groove you can usually
trim a bit tighter. This will flatten the sail a bit forward but power up the leech like
the flaps on a wing and give you more lift with possibly less drag. As you fall
out of the groove you must be quick to ease to keep the boat going. This also
explains why in flat water you can trim a bit tighter than in rough water. When
coming out of a tack it’s often necessary to ease the mainsheet some because the
speed is down and you may be out of the groove for a few seconds. Also in a
breeze if the crew doesn’t get over right away the boat may heal too much and a
ease on the sheet will keep the boat on its feet.
B) Outhaul
You want to be able to adjust your outhaul upwind in all conditions without
using both hands, and changing course at the same time. The outhaul should
have about 12-1 purchase with cascading blocks. The best setup is a 3-1
followed by a 2-1 in the boom, followed by a 2-1 on the floor. The cascading
system will not only be easier to pull but will also release much easier. The
outhaul adjustment should end with 1/4 inch line at the center of the boat next to
the mainsheet cleat.
Upwind
The main thing to remember is that the outhaul adjustment should be rather
subtle and the effect is probably even more subtle. The most common mistake is
to try to use too big a range of adjustment. I remember a few years back seeing
Pete Bennett keep the outhaul very near the band in all conditions. It just
doesn’t work to try to add a whole lot of fullness with the outhaul in light air. For
the most part, you only need to make small adjustments with the outhaul as the
conditions change.
The main variables to consider when setting the outhaul are the wind strength,
sea conditions and angle of heel. The simplest rule is when you are overpow-
ered, and therefore healing too much, the outhaul should be pulled to the band.
In conditions under this point you must consider the sea conditions more than
the wind strength. If the water is smooth you can probably have the sail out
fairly close to the band. If you need a little more power to drop the crew over the
8

side let it off a little. Often when I have to start leaning in or I can’t keep the crew
over the side, I’ll let the outhaul off a little. If you have a lot of chop then you
also want to let off the outhaul a little. Remember it doesn’t take much.
I do several things to gauge the outhaul adjustment. I look at the distance from
the sail to the boom band but this is a little hard to judge because of the angle
and the fact that you have to look aft to check it out. It’s much better to have a
felt tip mark on the line at the cleat for the average setting and maybe another at
the maximum setting (sail out to band). This makes it easy to return to the proper
place after a mark rounding. These marks are very useful and this is why I don’t
like a double ended set up. As far as looking at the sail, I look right along the
boom. When pulled to the band in light air the sail will be flat as a board for the
first few feet up and the very bottom of the sail will be all rolled up and wrinkled.
When eased a bit you will see a little shape and when eased the most in chop or
when you want to keep the crew over, the first seam will be just dropping away
from a straight line.
Offwind
Sailing offwind the outhaul gets eased. On an overpowered reach , you may not
want to ease it all the way but otherwise, it should be eased to make the sail full.
You can only ease it to the point that the lens is let out, any more and you will
just be giving away sail area. You can usually see when you have gone far
enough when the foot bolt rope next to the mast goes slack.
C) Cunningham
Keep some horizontal wrinkles in the main up to about 8-10 knots to keep draft
aft. As the wind increases, trim the cunningham to move the draft forward and to
flatten the mainsail. The most important thing is to make sure the cunningham is
not too tight in light air. In variable conditions it’s best to be a little too loose
than too tight. Off the wind make sure that the cunningham is as loose as
possible. The crew may need to push the tack slug up and slacken the cunning-
ham purchase system.
D) Main Traveler
The only time I have found the main traveler to be useful is when overstanding a
mark or on a very close reach. These two things shouldn’t happen too often so
the traveler was taken off Stars in the early 80's to save weight and simplify the
boat.
E) Boom Vang
The vang should be set so the top batten is in line with the boom. When
reaching the vang should be set fairly hard to prevent too much twist. On the
run the tendency is to have the vang too tight. The crew should check the leech
at the top batten to make sure that it is not too tight. You will find that very little
vang needs to be used on a run. The rule is the same as trimming the leach
9
Outhaul cont...

upwind, keep the aft end of the top batten parallel to the boom.
F) Mast forward at deck
Normally no mast lever needs to be used upwind. In light air some forward lever
can be experimented with. When reaching only use enough forward lever to
keep the mast from reversing, don’t induce any bend. The crew should check the
mast to make sure that it is straight. I set up my forward adjustment so it just
barely goes loose when sailing upwind in light air. This keeps the mast from
every reversing on a reach without having to pull any forward puller on. On the
run the it should be pulled on until the mast is straight. A good way to judge if
you have the right amount of forward puller on is to look at the windward
spreader. The spreader should be straight out from the mast. It may swing
forward in the puffs slightly and maybe in the light spots swing aft but normally
it's straight out.
G) Sliding mast butt
Some boats use a sliding mast butt. It originally was used on older boats that
didn't have enough room forward at the mast partner allowing the mast to go
further forward. It was discovered that it also loosened the shrouds so the
leeward spreader wouldn't cut in the main as much.
4. JIB TRIM
Pull the jib in until the leech lines up with the mark on the center of the spreader
and make sure the foot’s not too tight”. This is what we do about 95% of the
time. There are about 10 separate adjustments that affect the trim of the jib. The
adjustments that affect the jib are: jib halyard, jib tack downhaul, jib stay
position, rake, jib lead fore and aft, jib lead in and out, jib sheet tension, upper
backstay, lower backstay and even the mainsheet. For the most part you don’t
even have to worry about many of them, but I’ll discuss all of them and what
effects they have. First, I’ll try to describe the shape we are looking for.
A) Upwind Jib Shape
There are a lot of guidelines used for determining proper jib trim. What you are
determining is fullness and twist. The twist is the change in angle of the sail as it
goes up. An untwisted sail will have a small slot between itself and the main.
The top of the sail will be over trimmed and the sail will luff first down low. A sail
with too much twist will be real open at the top and will luff first. A good way to
look at twist is by using the battens. You will find that with the proper twist the
lower batten will be pointing to windward of the center line, the middle batten
straight back and the top batten pointing down to leeward. From experience we
have found that with the proper twist the leech intersects the spreader half way
out. You should have a mark on the spreader at 458 mm (18") off the side of the
10

mast. It becomes quite simple because we trim to this mark in all but the lightest
and windiest conditions where we may twist off a little more. The fullness is the
other half of the formula. Judge the fullness by the foot. If the foot is too flat or
tight, the cloth will roll up and even flap sometimes. Too much fullness will hurt
pointing. In changing wind conditions the crew must constantly adjust the sheet
to keep the leech in the same spot. Get down to leeward and look at the jib
before the start and use the window in the main when racing. Watch the foot
fullness and leech battens and position at the spreader. The skipper can provide
input to the crew also. When the skipper is having trouble steering the jib can be
eased out a bit and when he is really in the groove it can be sheeted tighter. The
following are the various adjustments that affect the trim and how to set them.
B) Jib Sheet
We already discussed the jib sheet tension above in Upwind Jib Shape. This is
the most important adjustment and often the only one that gets changed once
the correct place is found for the other adjustments. I prefer the 2 to 1 system
because it’s a little easier to make minor adjustments.
C) Jib Stay Position (Fore and Aft)
This is something you don’t have control over. Twenty years ago many boats
did have an adjustment but it was determined that max aft was the best and boat
builders just started to fix it there. In the last 10 years it has been creeping back
forward to the point where on new boats it’s maximum forward. The range is 102
mm or 4". It can be argued that it’s best maximum forward to separate the sails
more. I did have one boat where it was adjustable and it didn’t seem to make
much difference one way or the other. It will change a few things though on how
things set up. With the tack position maximum aft like on most Gerard’s and
Melges’s you will find that the jib leech comes really close to the spreader when
sheeted in tight. Your rake measurement when using the jibstay clevis pin
measurement will also change. My suggestions is that you don’t make any
changes to your boat but be aware that there is a difference between boats when
comparing with others or when moving into a new boat.
D) Jib Halyard
The jib halyard determines the height of the jib off the deck. The tack usually
ends up about 25 mm (1") off the deck, depending on your make of boat. The
angle in the foot of the jib, near the clew, should just touch when trimmed in
moderate breeze. If the jib is too high you will not get a good end plate with the
deck and on some older boats the leech may start hitting the spreader. If the jib
is too low you will not be able to sheet tight enough in stronger conditions. I set
my halyard so my jib is as low as possible and we almost two block the jib sheet
in the condition when we trim the tightest. We even made some changes to the
blocks on our leads to get everything a little lower. We use Harken bullet blocks
with the smallest pad eye bolted to the top of the cars. When using 2-1 purchase
jib sheets, the blocks on the jib should be drilled out and bolted or riveted right
11

on the O-ring. If you don’t use the 2-1 purchase system then you gain even
more room. If you don’t have the tracks sunk in the deck you have to sail with
the jib a bit higher.
Most older boats are set up using the lock on the side of the mast for the jib
halyard balls. With a ball system I found that I usually ended up using the
second ball from the bottom on the jib halyard with the Spar tech mast. The
newer boats all use an adjustable halyard control in the boat. This allows you to
hoist the jib on a run to keep the pole out of the water in heavy air and to fine
tune the height off the deck. If you hoist the jib on the run be very careful to
lower it back at the leeward mark to the very same upwind position or you can
damage the jib. Some boats are set up with an adjustment in the boat with the
other end tying into the rake so a change in rake will adjust the halyard corre-
spondingly. I find that I never adjust the rake when I find the right place so this
isn’t a big deal. When you find the right ball to use mark it and leave it there
because a change in the height will change the angle of your jib sheet requiring a
change in fore and aft lead position.
E) Jib Lead Fore andAft
After the jib sheet tension, the lead position fore and aft is the most important
adjustment. For the fore and aft setting, you should have some fullness in the
foot with the mid batten pointing straight back. If the foot vibrates or flaps it’s
too tight and the lead needs to go forward. The lead usually ends up about 2200
mm (86.5") from the head-
stay, but this will vary
depending on the boat and
how high off the deck the jib
is set. You can watch the jib
leech through the spreader
window in the main and line
up the leech with the mark on
the spreader for a trim guide.
I find that the jib leech is at
this mark in all but very light
or windy conditions. The in
and out track should be
angled so the distance from the jibstay to the inboard end, and to the outboard
end is about the same. This way when you go in and out you will not affect the
fore and aft adjustment. It’s best to start out with the suggested measurement
then go out and after getting your halyard right, fine tune the lead position. I find
I always come really close to the same number on different boats. I also find that
an adjustment in different conditions is rarely needed. I've had an adjustable
lead but only used it when tuning or sail testing. The big disadvantage of an
adjustable lead is it’s really easy to accidentally change it. I put felt tip marks on
the line and on the deck under the track to make sure it’s always in the right spot.
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F) Jib Lead In and Out
In most conditions, the jib cars should be set at 356 mm (14") from the center line
(9.5 degrees). I have found that I rarely have to make a change from this mea-
surement unless I overstand the mark. Even in the extremely rough conditions at
the '88 Olympics we found that 356 mm worked fine although we learned that we
had to sheet the jib a little looser. Only when you overstand a mark or a boat is
trying to roll over you will you need to let the leads out some. It’s very important
to let the cars down to leeward when reaching or use barberhaulers to pull the
lead outboard.
G) Jib Tack Downhaul
You only should use enough tension to take out the wrinkles. Any more is slow.
You may want to leave in a few small wrinkles to make sure you are not too tight.
Check the jib halyard section for jib height, you don't want the jib too far off the
deck.
H) Backstays and Rake effect on Jib
The backstays have an affect on the jib by changing the headstay sag. Pulling
on both the upper and the lower will decrease sag and flatten the jib. The
mainsheet will also pull back on the rig and effect the headstay sag some. I
prefer a jib that requires no backstay tension in light conditions but will handle a
little less sag in moderate conditions. This way you can power up the main a
little when the crew drops over with the lower backstay, and not over flatten the
jib entry making steering more difficult. In very strong conditions I like to use a
lot of upper and lower tension to reduce sag so I don’t get any lee helm.
As you change the rake you change almost all the above adjustments. This is
why it’s important to be very careful when changing the rake adjustment. As the
rake goes out the jib halyard must be eased (or jib cloth), the backstays loosen,
the foot flattens, the jib leech opens and the mainsheet trim changes. Most of
these changes in the jib are probably all right, but you really have to stay on top
of all the changes when the breeze drops, so everything returns to where it had
been before. I have found that it’s much simpler to leave the rake alone.
5. BACKSTAYS
After the mainsheet and jibsheet the backstays are adjusted more than anything
else on the boat. When sailing upwind they are used for fine tuning the sails and
off the wind they are also important for boat speed and critical for holding up the
mast. Since there are quite a few variations in backstay setups a good starting
point is to go over some of these systems.
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A) Track system
All boats built since the mid 80's have not used the track system but this is still a
very good way to control the backstays. The tracks have the advantage of
transferring load to the boat so they are easy to pull back. It is also easy to see
on a jibe when they are back far enough to hold up the mast. The control lines
can be back at the end of the track or led forward so the crew can face forward. I
like the standard aft location with a fairlead after the cleat so the crew faces aft on
the jibes and it can be trimmed from anywhere in the boat and the line will stay in
the cleat. On the tacks release the old windward backstay in the tack so the
backstays don't cut in to the sail. If you need to duck another boat or go around
the windward mark you are ready. The crew then resets it right before tacking.
With Harken tracks shockcord is unnecessary to pull the car forward. Shockcord
pulls the backstays too far forward when released on tacks. The big disadvan-
tage of the track system is that to get the rig far enough forward on the run you
usually have to let the cars forward and you always need to let off the upper and
lower on each side which means you have three adjustments to make instead of
one.
B) Under the Deck Systems
The under the deck purchase systems have become the standard system today.
The under the deck system has the advantage of having only one control to let
the rig forward on the run and after the first jibe. It’s also easier to pull every-
thing back at the leeward mark. There are basically three variations.
The first under the deck system, and still used by many Europeans, has a coarse
adjustment of 2 to 1 adjusted by the crew with a fine tune for the skipper with
about 12 to 1 that controls both the lower and the upper. There is then a separate
lower adjustment directly on the backstay. The problem is in repeating the
adjustments after each tack or mark rounding. You basically have to retune the
backstays each time. On the current boats the backstay is further forward and
outboard so you can leave them set when tacking but it’s still hard to repeat the
tune you had on the last weather leg. You also can't adjust the upper indepen-
dently.
The final simplification that made the under deck system overtake the track
system is when Buchan took off the fine tune. He also moved the backstay
forward and outboard so the backstays would never cut into the main. Bill also
added a purchase, making it 3 to 1 under the deck, so it is easier for the crew to
pull the backstay back off the wind.
A third system is used in Switzerland on Josi Steinmayer’s boats and the newer
Lillia's. It's similar to the Buchan system but is above the deck. It is very simple
just consisting of a two to one purchase and a cleat right at the backstay
attachment point. The upper and lower adjustments are just like the track and
Buchan systems. You jibe facing aft like with the track system.
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I feel the Buchan System is the best. Going upwind the course adjustment stays
set all the time. Any adjustment can be made independently with the upper or
lower adjustment just like on the track system. Off the wind only the course
adjustment is used so when you arrive at the leeward mark the backstays are just
pulled back to the stops and you are set up just like you were on the last weather
leg. The 3-1 makes it a little easier to pull back the backstay at the leeward mark.
Some cross the backstays so it’s easier for the crew to let off the leeward
backstay at the weather mark and to pull it back on at the leeward mark.
If you have a problem with the wire under the deck twisting, you can get a non-
rotating wire. All boat builders are using a non-rotating wire or Kevlar line now.
C) Adjusting The Backstays
Upwind
When sailing upwind the backstays control mast bend and headstay sag. The
lower backstay controls the lower mast bend but also reduces headstay sag. The
upper backstay also affects the headstay sag. This is an area where the mainsail
and jib interact. A mainsail designed for a lot of lower backstay needs a jib
designed for less headstay sag. The upper is not really even used until the boat
is overpowered and the lower is only used slightly to power up in moderate air
and then used to prevent overbend in heavy air. When you pull on the lower
you will see the main get fuller especially near the mast. Too much lower will
make a big bubble at the mast which will backwind. You will also feel the helm
increase as the lower is pulled on. The key is to have the boat feel good and
watch the boats around you to check your boat speed and pointing. Generally a
little more lower will help keep the crew over the side in marginal conditions and
will make the boat point higher. It can also put on the brakes. If you aren’t going
well and the boat also doesn’t feel good try letting off the lower all the way and
start over pulling on just a little at a time.
In light and lumpy conditions you don’t need any backstay tension. In this
condition just pull the backstays enough to keep the rig from swinging around.
As the breeze increases and the crew comes up on the high side then pull a little
on the lower and when he drops over pull a little more. This will power up the rig
some. The amount of lower required will depend slightly on the angle of your
spreaders. If the spreaders come back further you will need more lower tension.
You don’t need any upper yet as this flattens the jib by taking out luff sag and
bends the mast by adding compression. Keeping the upper loose gives you the
wide groove necessary to maintain boatspeed. The upper should be just snug.
You must be careful though, a snug upper in 10 knots becomes a tight one when
the wind drops to 6 knots and the main gets eased a few inches. Always recheck
your backstays as conditions change. In medium conditions, it is probably
better to be a little too loose, rather than too tight on the backstays.
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As you get overpowered then start to pull on the upper. When over powered I
have found it very fast at times to pull very hard on the upper and the lower.
This reduces headstay sag flattening the jib. With the looser intermediates some
are sailing with higher upper backstay tension. In flat water you can tighten the
upper a little quicker than is possible in rough water. I use 5 to 1 on the lower and
8 to 1 on the upper. I find it really helpful to put felt tip pen marks on the upper
and lower adjustment lines for reference.
Try to use the feedback from the tiller as well as your speed compared to other
boats to keep the adjustment correct.
Backstays Reaching
When reaching, ease the upper backstays enough to make the mast straight and
main full. On a reach without the pole ease the backstay about 75 mm (3") at the
deck or about 230 mm (9") on the line. This also makes the jib fuller and more
powerful.
Backstays Running
On the run let off the backstay to lay the mast way forward. In light to medium
wind you will let off the backstay course adjustment line about 1525 (60") if you
have a 3-1 system. In strong wind don’t go as far. The biggest mistake I see at
clinics is that people don’t let the rig far enough forward. The mast should be so
far forward that the spreaders start to reverse before pulling on the mast ram.
Make sure that your mast partner is cut as far forward as is legal so you can ram
the mast forward to keep it straight. In breezy conditions don’t let the mast as far
forward as in lighter winds or you can risk breaking it. See the section on the
mast forward adjustment at the deck for proper mast set up when running.
If you have tracks let off the lower first then the upper all the way then in light air
let the car forward some on the track. The crew should then reach under the
boom and let off the lower then the upper on the other side so you will be ready
for the jibe.
6. RIGGING A NEW MAST
Fortunately today the new masts come quite ready to go. The mast manufactur-
ers also provide great instructions. This is my check list I go through when
installing a new mast.
If the mast isn’t already cut to length that is the first step. You need to know the
point B measurement for your boat. Point B controls the height of the mast. This
point on the mast must be at the height of the shear. The measurement is from
the bearing point of the bottom of the mast to the shearline. Your point B may be
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on your measurement certificate, if it isn’t the log describes how to measure it.
Use this measurement by measuring down from the punch mark on the mast and
make a mark on the mast which will be the bearing point of the mast on the step.
Subtract for the butt plug length and cut off the extra mast. Be very careful to
make sure an accurate cut is made by wrapping a piece of paper around the mast.
After installing the plug check to make sure it’s square in all directions.
All wires are already finished except the backstays. You will need to cut the
lower and upper to length for your particular backstay system. I like to make
them as long as possible to make it easy to reach and to reduce the windage. I
have found that with my system I make the lower 305 mm (12") longer than the
band at the boom and the upper 165 mm (6.5") shorter than the band.
See section 2 (a) and 2 (b) on intermediates and spreader angle.
7. SAIL CARE
With a little extra care the life of your sails can be extended. Today’s sails are
made from yarn tempered Dacron. It is a Dacron cloth that is heavily coated with
resin keeping the fibers from moving, producing less stretch and adding durabil-
ity. Constant folding and luffing will cause breakdown of the resin and the sail
shape can change. There is not much we can do about the luffing on the race
course but some care at the dock can help.
A) Raising and Lowering the Sails
The main should be folded with the clew out so it can be slid right on to the
boom. Put the tack slug in and then hook up the outhaul.
Insert the battens from the leech end. To lock the batten in the pocket you must
use the short loader stick that is included with your sail. Put the loader stick in
the small fold at the end of the webbing strap and insert it in the pocket over the
batten tip. With the webbing strap pushed all the way in, push down on the
pocket and pull out the stick. The Velcro on the webbing strap will meet up with
the Velcro on the inside of the pocket and the batten will stay in the pocket. To
remove the batten, pull on the string attached to the webbing strap and yank out
the strap. The top batten has an external velcro system and takes about as much
tension as you can get. The lower 3 need to be tight but it's possible to over
tighten them. If they are too tight the front section may get a buckle in it. If the
battens are too loose you will get wrinkles perpendicular to the batten.
Tape the main shackle to make sure it can’t come undone or take out the standard
pin and replace it with a pin and ring to make sure that it can’t come apart
accidentally.
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