Raket R 95 User manual

Owners
Manual
ENGLISH

www.raketengines.com www.raketengines.com
Revision 5, Februari 2011
2 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 3
Congratulaons, you have made a good
choice when you picked our engine R 95.
Now we beg you to read through this
User Manual before you start using the
engine. The manual is an important part
of our delivery and it is a proof of our
endeavour to deliver a good and safe
product that both you and we can be
proud of.
R 95 is a brand new type of kart engine.
It is a two stroke engine, but it is built on
a completely new principle for scaveng-
ing, which is called Dual Charge. Thanks
to this the R 95 engine has much less
exhaust emissions than any other compa-
rable kart engine. Dual Charge also means
a number of other advantages, e.g. lower
fuel consumpon and improved oiling of
all bearings in the crankcase.
Should you one day sell your R 95 engine,
you should pass on this User Manual to
the new owner.
If the User Manual has got lost you can
order a new one free of charge from
Radne Motor AB.
Owners Manual R 95
WARNING!
Under no circumstance is it allowed
to change the original design of the
engine without a wrien acceptance
from the manufacturer. You should
always use original spare parts.
Unauthorised changes or non origi-
nal spare parts can lead to serious
damages.
Contents
Owners Manual R 95...........................................................................................2
1. Safety ..............................................................................................................4
2. Instructions for handling and charging a R 95 starter battery. .........................6
Safety instructions for the use of the battery and the charging of the battery: ....7
Installing the NiMH battery...................................................................................9
3. Instructions for mounting the R 95 engine onto the kart................................10
4. Starting and stopping the R 95 engine. .........................................................11
5. Setting up the R 95 engine. ...........................................................................12
6. Technical data for R 95..................................................................................14
7. What do we mean by an engine of Dual Charge model? ..............................15
8. Product description for homologation purposes ............................................16
1. Crankcase .....................................................................................................16
2. Crankshaft .....................................................................................................16
3. Cylinder .........................................................................................................16
4. Spark plug .....................................................................................................17
5. Piston.............................................................................................................17
6. Carburettor ....................................................................................................17
7. Carburettor ange..........................................................................................18
8. Inlet ange .....................................................................................................18
9. Ignition system...............................................................................................18
10. Exhaust system ...........................................................................................18
11. Centrifugal clutch .........................................................................................19
12.Covers ..........................................................................................................19
13. Starter system .............................................................................................19
9. Service tips ....................................................................................................20
1. Lubricating the clutch parts............................................................................20
2. Silencer..........................................................................................................20
3. Servicing the carburettor ...............................................................................20
4. Starter equipment ..........................................................................................23
Split drawing engine ..........................................................................................24
Splitdrawing manual start ..................................................................................26
Split drawing carburettor....................................................................................27
Tillotson HS-319A..............................................................................................27

4 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 5
1. Safety
1.
R 95 engines including accessories, as sup-
plied by Radne Motor, are only intended to
be assembled on a kart and for the purpose
of driving the kart. Any other use is forbidden
unless wrien approval has been received
from Radne Motor. Radne Motor accepts no
responsibility whatsoever for anything that
may happen if a R 95 engine is used for any
other purpose than that for which it is speci-
cally intended.
2.
A kart that is equipped with a R 95 engine can
aain speeds at which the driver is exposed
to obvious danger to life and limb if the kart
is handled in an irresponsible manner. Radne
Motor accepts no responsibility whatsoever
for injuries to people or damage to property
that may arise if a kart that is equipped with a
R 95 engine, either directly or indirectly is the
cause of an accident or damage as a result of
carelessness or negligence on behalf of the
driver.
3.
During normal use, some parts in a R 95
engine become so warm that they can cause
burns to people who come into contact with
the warm parts. Examples of such parts are
the silencer and cylinder. It is up to the driver
to ensure that the kart is equipped with
appropriate protecon so that contact with
warm and hot objects is avoided, and to act
in an appropriate fashion so that such pos-
sible burn injuries do not occur. Radne Motor
accepts no responsibility whatsoever for
injuries that may occur as a result of a person
coming into contact with the hot or warm
parts of a R 95 engine.
4.
During the normal use of a R 95 engine
installed on a kart, there is a risk for personal
injuries that may occur as a result of body
parts or objects being trapped between, or
rubbing against, the engine’s rotang parts.
An example of this could be geng a nger
stuck between the sprocket on the outbound
axle and the chain that drives the rear axle.
It is up to the driver to ensure that the kart
is equipped with appropriate protecon so
that such incidences of contact are avoided,
and to act in an appropriate fashion so that
no injuries of this type occur. Radne Motor
accepts no responsibility whatsoever for
injuries to people that may occur as a result
of something becoming trapped between the
rotang parts of a R 95 engine.
5.
A R 95 engine is propelled using a ammable
fuel – alkylate petrol or 95 octane petrol.
Careless handling of the fuel can lead to res
that can cause injury to people or damage to
property. Radne Motor accepts no responsi-
bility whatsoever for accidents and injuries
that may occur as a result of careless handling
of fuel, for instance when lling the fuel tank,
incorrect mounng of the fuel tank onto
the kart, inappropriate construcon of the
fuel tank, a fuel tank made of inappropriate
materials or the existence or use of inappro-
priate materials in, or with the drawing of, a
fuel line.
6.
R 95 is equipped with an electric starter
system consisng of a starter motor and a
starter baery. The baery is of the NiMH
type (Nickel-metal hydride). Please refer to
the separate secon in this manual regarding
handling and care of the NiMH baery that is
included with the delivery of a R 95 engine.
Radne Motor accepts no responsibility
whatsoever for accidents or injuries that may
occur to people or property if any baery is
used other than that which is supplied with
the original delivery or as an original spare
part baery.
7.
The driver is responsible for the mounng of
the baery, baery box and cables between
the baery box and the starter motor, in
accordance with the instrucons provided
in this manual. Radne Motor accepts no
responsibility whatsoever for accidents and
injuries that may occur as a result of incorrect
mounng of the baery, baery box and/
or the cables between the baery and the
starter motor.
8.
The charging and storage of the NiMH baery
should occur in accordance with the instruc-
ons provided in this manual. Radne Motor
accepts no responsibility whatsoever for
injuries to people or damage to property that
may occur as a result of incorrect handling,
storage or charging of the R 95 NiMH baery.
IMPORTANT

6 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 7
2. Instrucons for handling and
charging a R 95 starter baery.
PLEASE NOTE: These instrucons regarding
the handling of a R 95 starter baery are an
important part of Radne Motor’s delivery
of the R 95 kart engine. These instrucons
contain informaon about handling of the
baery and the charging of the same. Before
you may use the NiMH baery it is impor-
tant that you read these instrucons in their
enrety. If in the future you sell your R 95
engine together with its starter baery, then
you must ensure that the new owner receives
these instrucons.
IMPORTANT! Radne Motor accepts no
responsibility whatsoever for damages to a R
95 engine that may occur if you use any other
baery than a R 95 original baery.
If you have previous experience of lead-acid
baeries then please be aware that NiMH
baeries are radically dierent from these. As
long as a NiMH baery is used correctly then
it is a very good and environmentally-friendly
source of power that is far superior to both
lead-acid and nickel-cadmium baeries. How-
ever, if a NiMH baery is not handled cor-
rectly and in accordance with these instruc-
ons, such incorrect handling may drascally
shorten the baery’s lifespan, or else cause
injury to people or damage to property.
Safety instrucons for the use of the
baery and the charging of the baery:
1.
Read these instrucons in their enrety be-
fore you begin to use the NiMH baery.
2.
The handling and care of the NiMH baery
should never be entrusted to children unless
there is a supervising adult in aendance.
3.
Always check that the NiMH baery is in good
condion every me before using it. If you
see that the baery is mechanically damaged,
or if it appears to have expanded in volume
or if electrolyte (a scky gel-like substance)
has penetrated the baery, then you should
discard the baery immediately.
4.
A NiMH baery should not be thrown out
with household garbage but should be taken
for recycling in accordance with your local
guidelines regarding the management of
recyclable waste.
5.
A NiMH baery should never be shorted or
exposed to high levels of heat.
6.
A NiMH baery should never be overcharged.
That is why you should always use the Raket
original baery charger that automacally
stops charging when the baery has reached
its full capacity.
7.
A NiMH baery should not be discharged so
that the terminal voltage drops to below 11.0
volts. If you discharge the baery too deeply
then one of the baery’s cells may be dam-
aged in which case you will no longer be able
to recharge the baery to its full capacity.
8.
A NiMH baery should not be charged unl
most of its capacity has been used up. At that
point the terminal voltage will have dropped
to 12.0 volts. In praccal terms this means
that you can start your kart approx. 50 mes
before you need to charge the baery. Try
to get into the habit of charging your baery
aer you have started the kart 35 – 45 mes.
9.
You should always charge the baery using
the original special charger that is supplied
with the delivery of a R 95 engine. The char-
ger is an intelligent-type charger which means
that it inially charges with a high current
unl the baery reaches maximum capacity.
Aer that the charger switches over to trickle
charge mode. If you were to use a charger
that does not have this automac funcon
then you would almost certainly “burn-out”
your baery because of overcharging.
10.
Never charge a baery that is warm. Let the
baery cool to normal room temperature
before you start to charge it again.
11.
The me required to charge a baery that
is typically discharged is 5 hours. When
the charger noces that the baery is fully
charged it switches to trickle charge mode.
12.
When charging the baery, the charger
should be connected to the charger plug that
is located on the baery box. If the baery is
to be charged once it has been removed from
the box then the charging process should
occur on an inammable surface. Connect the
Technical Data Raket 95 Battery
Battery type: NiMH
Voltage: 14,4 volt
Capacity: 3000 mAh
Charging power: 1 A, determined by the charger
Charge 5 hours, then maintenance charge
Minimum discharge voltage 11.0 volts
Maintenance charge only by Raket Original special charger
Fuse in the battery cartridge 40 A
Use in temperatures:
Storage 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Use 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Charge 0 - 30 degrees ambient temperature
Life expectancy 500 up and discharge cycles
Charger Raket Original special charger for NiMH
Technical Data Raket 95 Battery
Battery type: NiMH
Voltage: 14,4 volt
Capacity: 3000 mAh
Charging power: 1 A, determined by the charger
Charge 5 hours, then maintenance charge
Minimum discharge voltage 11.0 volts
Maintenance charge only by Raket Original special charger
Fuse in the battery cartridge 40 A
Use in temperatures:
Storage 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Use 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Charge 0 - 30 degrees ambient temperature
Life expectancy 500 up and discharge cycles
Charger Raket Original special charger for NiMH

8 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 9
charger’s posive terminal to the baery’s
posive terminal and the baery’s negave
terminal to the charger’s negave terminal. If
the charger is connected incorrectly it is most
likely that both the baery and the charger
will immediately and irrepairably damaged.
13.
The baery does not need to be supervised
during charging. The automac funconal-
ity of the charger takes care of any need for
supervision.
14.
The baery should not be altered in any way,
for instance by taking it apart and pung it
back together in a dierent conguraon.
15.
It is not permied to solder the baery. If
one of the connecon cables should come
loose from the baery as a result of careless
handling then it should be disposed of im-
mediately.
16.
If a re should start in a NiMH baery then
the re should be exnguished with sand or
alternavely the baery should be cooled
down by using a CO2 re exnguisher.
17.
If the baery’s electrolyte should come into
contact with a person’s hands then the elec-
trolyte should be immediately washed away
to avoid any burns to the skin. If someone
were to get electrolyte in their eyes then
assistance from a specialist eye doctor should
be sought immediately.
18.
Prior to winter, when you are no longer using
your kart, it is important that you charge your
baery before you put your kart into storage
for the winter. If you store away your kart in
the autumn with a discharged baery then
the baery will almost certainly be inoper-
able when you take out your kart again in the
spring. For this reason you should allow your
baery to remain charging on trickle charge
mode during the period that you will not be
using it.
19.
If your kart is to be stored in cold storage, in
other words a storage area where minus tem-
peratures may occur, then you should remove
the baery and store it somewhere at normal
room temperature.
20.
For informaon regarding handling of the
charger we refer you to the general instruc-
ons that can be found on Mascot’s website.
Please see: hp://www.mascot.no/
Installing the NiMH baery.
1.
The baery is delivered in a baery box made
of extruded aluminium.
2.
The baery box is to be mounted onto a con-
sole that is in turn to be mounted onto the
frame to the le of the driver’s seat, using the
supplied mounng components.
3.
The start buon and the charger plug can be
found on the baery box. In the box there
is also a 40 A fuse that prevents the baery
from being destroyed if a short should occur
outside of the baery box. The fuse may only
be changed for an idencal fuse that can
be purchased as a spare part from a Raket
reseller.
4.
A cable leads from the baery box which
should be connected to the starter motor.
There is a plug on the cable that should be
connected to the equivalent plug on the
starter motor.
5.
The cables between the baery box and the
starter motor should be carefully fastened
to the frame by using suitable cable clips or
es. The cables should be fastened in such a
manner that they cannot come into contact
with any hot or warm parts of the engine that
might melt the cable casing, nor with any
moving parts that might render holes in the
cable casing.

10 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 11
3. Instrucons for mounng the R
95 engine onto the kart.
The process for mounng the R 95 engine
onto your kart can of course vary somewhat
depending on what type of kart you have.
Below we provide some advice and guidelines
that are normally applicable to most types of
karts.
1.
The R 95 engine is designed to t directly
onto the engine support that already exists
on your kart. You will need four M8 Allen
(hexagonal) bolts in order to aach the en-
gine to the engine support.
2.
Your engine has an engine sprocket with 11
teeth. It is normally a good idea to try an
80-tooth sprocket on the rear axle, but then it
is of course up to you to test dierent sengs
for dierent tracks. A curvy track may require
a larger sprocket = more teeth, while a
straight and long track may require a smaller
sprocket on the rear axle.
3.
The great majority of karts have a holder for
the silencer as standard, and the accompany-
ing silencer is suitable for use with such a
standard holder. It comes with three springs
that hold the silencer against the engine’s
exhaust pipe, and it will require two slightly
longer springs to hold the silencer in the
support, for which you can use the kart’s
standard springs.
4.
A holder for the throle cable can be found
between the carbureor and the carburet-
tor ange, while a lever with a holder for the
cable can be found on the throle sha.
5.
You need to have a CIK-approved inlet si-
lencer to be able to drive and race your kart.
There are several dierent models available
and all are suitable for use with the ange on
the inlet crown.
6.
How you will then fasten the inlet silencer
to your kart depends on the type of inlet
silencer that you have chosen. We recom-
mend that you are careful when it comes to
fastening the inlet silencer since this normally
is required to absorb quite hard knocks. We
can certainly recommend the use of Radne
Motor’s holder (arcle number 5208).
7.
When it comes to mounng the baery,
baery box and the connecon between the
baery and the starter motor, a descripon
of how to do this can be found in a separate
secon of this manual.
4. Starng and stopping the R 95
engine.
Thanks to the R 95 engine being equipped
with an electric starter it is normally very easy
to start. No longer does one need a strong
mechanic who is able to li the rear end of
the kart in order to run-start the kart.
1.
Make sure that you have lled the tank with
fuel.
2.
If the fuel line is empty of petrol then take
away the inlet silencer if it is aached, hold
your hand over the carbureor and give full
throle. Press the start buon and hold it
in unl you can see that the fuel is being
pumped to the carbureor. Release the start
buon.
3.
When you start the engine you should not
apply the throle, but hold the brake pedal
down in order to avoid the kart from begin-
ning to roll when the engine starts.
4.
Push the start buon. Normally the engine
will start directly. As soon as you hear the
engine ignite you should take your hand away
from the inlet silencer.
5.
If the engine happens to stop then press the
start buon again. However this me you
should not hold your hand over the inlet
holes on the inlet silencer. If the engine does
not ignite and start directly, you can care-
fully try to give a lile throle. This may be
required in parcular if the engine is cold, but
otherwise there is a risk that the engine will
receive too rich of a fuel mixture.
6.
If you do not succeed in starng the engine
through the method described then you
should check the starter baery. The baery
maintains its voltage as long as it is charged,
but when it begins to approach the limits of
its capacity the voltage can reduce quickly.
Low voltage leads to less revoluons for the
starter motor and thus can cause problems
starng, especially when the engine is warm.
A fully-charged baery will normally cope
with 50 starts before it needs to be re-
charged.
7.
You stop the engine via the short circuit but-
ton that can be found on the baery box.

12 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 13
Standard Jeng
L: 2,25 turn
H: 0,75 turn
These are the minimum sengs that should not
be lower
5. Seng up the R 95 engine.
Your new engine does not require a lot of set-
ng up. It is essenally only the carbureor
that has varying setup alternaves.
1.
Start with a default seng for the carbureor.
Carefully turn both of the adjusng screws for
High Speed (H) and Low Speed (L) the whole
way so that they are fully closed. Aer that,
open the High Speed screw (H) 0.75 turns and
the Low Speed screw (L) 2.25 turns.
2.
Next you should screw out the idling adjust-
ment screw so that it just misses making con-
tact with the lever on the throle sha. Aer
that, screw in the idling adjustment screw 1.5
turns. This is now the default seng for the
carbureor that guarantees that you will be
able to start your engine.
3.
Start the engine. If it stops as soon as you no
longer press the start buon, but connues to
run if you carefully give throle, then you can
try screwing in the idling adjustment screw by
half a turn. Don’t overdo it however, because
the engine should be able to idle without the
centrifugal clutch engaging and thus begin-
ning to pull the kart along with it.
4.
Now you can drive a lap or two of the track so
that the engine warms up.
5.
Begin the ne tuning with the Low Speed
screw (L). Allow someone to hold the brake
to ensure that the kart cannot begin to roll,
and press quickly on the throle. The engine
should answer directly and increase speed un-
l the centrifugal clutch engages. If the engine
hesitates or even stops then you should test
the eect of slightly increasing the Low Speed
screw. Start with half a turn. When you have
found a seng at which you can apply the gas
and the engine responds immediately then it
is me to move onto the seng of the High
Speed screw (H).
6.
Drive a few laps of the track so that the
engine is really warm. Listen thereaer to
how the engine sounds when you are driv-
ing on the track’s longest straight. The High
Speed screw is correctly adjusted when the
engine begins to spluer at the very end of
the straight. If it starts to spluer any earlier
then you should carefully screw in the High
Speed screw one tenth of a turn. WARNING!
Do not overdo it and screw in the High Speed
screw too much, because then the engine will
not receive enough fuel and as a result not
enough oil, which can lead to piston and cyl-
inder damage. The High Speed screw should
always remain opened at least a 0,75 turn.
7.
When you have found exactly the right seng
for the High Speed screw you should check
the sengs of the Low Speed screw and the
idling adjustment screw again. You can feel
sased when:
- the engine idles easily without pulling the
kart, and you hear the occasional pinging
sound from the clutch but not so oen.
- the engine responds directly when you
apply the gas, both when idling and when
you are driving on the track and, for instance,
have taken your foot o the gas going into a
curve and then apply the gas again.
- the engine winds up properly on the track’s
straight secons, but begins to spluer at the
very end of the longest straight.
8.
If you nd aer having driven for a while
that you are no longer able to achieve a cor-
rect setup then it may be me to clean the
carbureor. See the secon about servicing
the engine.

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R 95 Manual - English 1514 R 95 Manual - English
6. Technical data for R 95
Engine model One-cylinder two-stroke engine of Dual Charge model
Cylinder volume 94 cm3
Cylinder diameter 56 mm
Stroke 38 mm
Connecng rod length 74 mm
Carbureor Tillotson HS 319 a, venturi 17,7 mm
Ignion system Selera analog
Flywheel Selera 113,9 mm
Starter system Electric, integrated starter (or Magnapull cord starter)
Starter baery Raket, 14.4 V Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) 3.0 Ah
Spark plug NGK BPM 8 Y
Clutch Centrifugal clutch metal
Sprocket on clutch drum 11 teeth, type 219
Exhaust system Tuned system with end silencer
Fuel Alkylate or 95/98 octane lead free petrol
Petrol mix 4% of synthec two-stroke oil
Squisch Min 0,8 mm
Combuson chamber volume Min.11,0 ml
Bearings Original SKF 6203 TN9C3
Sealing rings 17x28x7 sealing lip with Teon coang and dust seal
Idling speed 2500 rpm
Max rpm 12500 rpm
Max power 7,6 kW at 8600 rpm
Recyclable parts in the engine 82 %
Emission values CO and HC According to EPA2 standards
Weight 12.1 kg complete engine (engine, starter baery and silencer)
7. What do we mean by an en-
gine of Dual Charge model?
If one looks at the inlet in the cylinder one
can immediately see the big dierence. The
inlet is divided up into an upper secon and
a lower secon. If one then follows the chan-
nels one will see that the upper channels
go directly into the cylinder’s upper secon,
while the lower secon of the inlet leads via
channels down into the crankcase, just like an
ordinary two-stroke engine.
Insulang ange with two channels ensures
that the two streams of air are not mixed to-
gether. As you can see from the picture of the
cylinder, the two air streams connue each
of them through their respecve channel into
the cylinder.
You may wonder why the air that travels on
the top side of the throle doesn’t suddenly
stop when it no longer has any depression to
pull it. Well, when it comes to air it happens
to be the case that when one part of an air
mass moves, it pulls the surrounding air along
with it.
When it comes to the operang strokes,
when the piston moves downwards into the
cylinder, a port is opened in the cylinder at
which point the air stream that is not mixed
with the fuel streams in and rinses clean on
the top side of the piston. The result is that
when the mixture of fuel and air ows up
from the crankcase via the transfer channels
it meets with a clean combuson chamber.
Because of this the combuson is much purer,
which in turn means purer exhaust fumes.
R 95 has such good values concerning the
content levels of carbon monoxide, carbon di-
oxide and hydrogen carbonates (HC) that it is
able to meet the required emission demands
without the use of catalyc exhaust emission
control.
When the piston moves upwards in the
cylinder, in other words during the inlet and
compression stroke, a depression occurs
in the crankcase. It is this depression that
enables the engine to suck in air through the
carbureor. The throle in the carbureor
divides up the inlet air into one part beneath
the throle and one part above it. It is only
the air that travels beneath the throle that
then sucks up fuel through the carbureor
jet. A rubber inlet ange sits between the
carbureor and the cylinder. The inlet ange
also has a plate that divides the air and fuel
mixture when the throle is completely open.
However this is not the only advantage with
Dual Charge. The purer combuson also
means that the fuel consumpon is reduced
and that the exhaust fumes do not smell as
bad as in the case of an ordinary two-stroke
engine. Dual Charge engines are also much
cleaner in the crankcase which has been
shown to have a posive eect on bearings
and seals.

16 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 17
ZK3 and display Radne Motor’s logo and
arcle number 35085. No other labels are
permied.
Excepon:
If a thread in the cylinder were to be dam-
aged, for instance the spark plug thread,
then it is permied to make the repair with
a thread kit of the Heli Coil variety. PLEASE
NOTE! It must be the same thread as the
original.
4. Spark plug
The original spark plug is NGK BPM8Y, but
it may be exchanged for another equivalent
factory make. The diameter of the thread and
the thread length, 14x 9.5 mm, must always
be the same as the original.
5. Piston
You may not change to another factory make
of piston and it is very unlikely that you will
come across any pirate versions of pistons.
The piston should be labelled on the top with
R 35087.
Piston pins, piston pin locks and piston rings
must be original.
8. Product descripon for homol-
ogaon purposes
R 95 will be homologated in those countries
where it receives approval from the local
Automobile Sport Federaons. This product
descripon may not be used as a supporng
document during technical control unless the
appropriate Automobile Sport Federaon’s
stamp of approval exists.
The main principle involved is that absolutely
no changes or modicaons may occur. The
engines should be “out of the box”, in other
words exactly as they are delivered. Below
follow some claricaons.
1. Crankcase
The crankcase should have the same design
as shown in the picture.
The measurements that are of decisive im-
portance are those relang to the part of the
crankcase that exactly encloses the crank-
sha. In this maer absolutely no modica-
on whatsoever is allowed. The crankcase
halves should both be labelled with RAKET.
The sealing rings are “open to choice”, in
other words they may be exchanged for any
other factory make of your choosing under
the condion that the model and the dimen-
sions are kept the same. On both sides there
should be 17x28x7 with sealing lip as well as
dust sealing lip. Original sealing rings have a
sealing lip that is Teon coated.
The ball-bearings move on the cranksha but
are press ed in the crankcase and are origi-
nal 6203 TN 9C3. It is not permied to change
the bearings’ ng or placement.
2. Cranksha
The cranksha may not be altered in any way.
For instance it is not permied to balance the
cranksha by removing or adding material.
The same applies to the connecng rod, in
other words no alteraon of any kind is al-
lowed.
The needle roller bearings at either end of
the connecng rod are open to choice with
regards to factory make as long as the same
model is used. This should be needle roller
bearings in a steel basket.
3. Cylinder
The cylinder should be completely original
and absolutely no modicaon is allowed. For
instance it is not permied to smooth out the
edges of the transfer ports.
The cylinder should be labelled MAHLE 56
On the top of the piston there is an arrow
indicang which side of the piston should be
facing the exhaust port.
6. Carbureor
The carbureor is a Tillotson HS 319 A carbu-
reor. Absolutely no modicaons whatso-
ever are permied. The venturi diameter
should be 17.7 mm and the diameter at the
connecon for transion to the cylinder con-
necon should be 20.50 mm.
Parts subject to wear and tear such as the
diaphragm, gaskets and needle valve must be
original.
The throle sha should be an original Tillot-
son with a lever for connecon of the throle

18 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 19
altered or modied in any way. The aach-
ment of the silencer onto the cart is open to
choice, but it must be of such a nature that
the original silencer can be used without any
alteraons whatsoever.
The exhaust system for Micro has a restrictor
washer assembled at the cylinder connecon.
The restrictor washer has a diameter of 14
mm.
One can divide the silencer by drilling out
the rivets and replacing them with suitable
screws. When the silencer is divided one is
able to check on the amount of damping
material. This should be done at least once
every season, or when you noce a change to
the sound of the exhaust.
11. Centrifugal clutch
The clutch is an one piece steel clutch with
expandable arms.
The clutch is a security feature and absolutely
no alteraons or modicaons are allowed. In
other words it is not permied to change the
clutch weights or the clutch springs in order
to alter the number of rpm at which the slip
clutch engages.
The clutch should be fully engaged at max
5,000 rpm.
The clutch drum has a sprocket with 11 teeth.
12. Covers
The covers are safety features designed to
avoid contact with the rotang and warm
parts of the engine, and absolutely no altera-
ons or modicaons are permied. The kart
may not be driven without the covers.
13. Starter system
The engine is equipped with an electric
starter system as standard. The starter motor
should be an original R 95.
The engine may even be equipped with a
manual starter system also known as a Mag-
napull starter.
This means that a ange hub may be as-
sembled onto the ywheel.
cable.
7. Carbureor ange
The carbureor ange should always be
assembled and labelled with arcle number
35061.
8. Inlet ange
The rubber inlet ange should be labelled
with arcle number 35065 and may not be al-
tered in any way. The dividing plate of treated
Bakelite should be assembled.
9. Ignion system
The ignion system should be original Selera
and no modicaons are allowed.
The ignion coil and ywheel should be
labelled with Selera. The minimum weight
is 390g.
The ywheel wedge should be assembled and
may not be altered.
The picture illustrates the ywheel with
ange hub for manual starng. The hub
should not be removed.
10. Exhaust system
The exhaust system, consisng of cylinder
connecon and complete silencer, may not be

20 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 21
9. Service ps
Experiences from the previous engine model,
Raket 85, have taught us that a Raket engine
should normally not require any comprehen-
sive levels of service during a racing season,
since we believe that a R 95 engine will be
used no more than 50 mes per season. We
do not believe that it should be necessary
to change bearings, sealing rings and piston
rings several mes during a season, such as is
required with more extreme kart engines. It
is of course up to every driver and mechanic
to make their own decisions about what they
think is necessary or best.
The following simple service rounes can
however be said to fall into the category of
normal maintenance work:
1. Lubricang the clutch parts.
We recommend that you lubricate the bear-
ing of the clutch drum. The clutch it self shall
be clean and not lubricated.
2. Silencer
As we menoned previously, it is possible
to drill out the rivets at the back edge of the
silencer.
When you have done this you can remove the
end of the barrel and thus even the damping
material that is lying wrapped around the
barrel. Assuming that the carbureor is setup
normally and correctly it should not be neces-
sary to change the damping material during
a season. However we would recommend a
change prior to the start of each new season.
3. Servicing the carbureor
The only aspect of your R 95 engine that
requires regular service is the carbureor.
A diaphragm carbureor is a quite amazing
component that is capable of operang in
chainsaws, cuers and other tesng applica-
ons whilst working problem-free for several
years at a me. As long as you are careful
to only refuel using well-ltered fuel, and
always drive with the inlet silencer aached,
then you should also be able to get through
a season without needing to disassemble the
carbureor for cleaning and control. On the
other hand you must possess the ability to
clean and setup your carbureor. To that end
there now follows a short tutorial in carburet-
tor service.
The carbureor is a Tillotson 319 A. If we
follow the passage of the petrol through the
carbureor we will be able to quickly describe
the carbureor’s funcon.
The carbureor has two caps, one made of
metal while the other is mould cast. Under
the moulded cap lie a rubber diaphragm and
a gasket. There is a small chamber on each
side.
One of these chambers is connected to the
engine’s crankcase via a channel. When the
pressure in the crankcase changes the pump
diaphragm in the carbureor will begin to
move. On the other side of the diaphragm
there is fuel in the other chamber. When
the diaphragm moves the fuel is pumped in
and out of the chamber. Two small lip valves
that are cut-out in the same piece of rubber
ensure that sucon from the tank occurs and
that the fuel is pumped further towards the
carbureor’s inlet valve. The pump should
sustain a pressure of approx.0.5 kp/cm2.
It is quite simple to check if the pump is work-
ing correctly. Take o the spark plug so that
it will be easier to move around the engine.
Ensure that the fuel line is correctly aached
and that the carbureor is sing correctly on
the engine. All gaskets should be OK. Ensure
that the hose running from the crankcase
to the carbureor is in place. Press care-
fully (we emphasise – CAREFULLY) down on
the master diaphragm which you can reach
through the small hole on the die-cut cover
of the carbureor. When you press down on
the diaphragm the inlet valve opens. Turn the
engine around and check to see if there is any
fuel coming from the tank.
If no fuel is coming then you should rstly
loosen the fuel line from the tank and blow
into the hose. You should sll be pressing
down on the carbureor diaphragm. You
should feel that it is possible to blow air
through the carbureor. If you are not able
to blow air through the carbureor then you
should take o the moulded cap, because
there is obviously something wrong. Firstly
check the small fuel strainer (this has arcle
number 3043 in the spare parts list). It may
be clogged.
Aer that it is me to focus on the pump dia-
phragm itself. It could be worn out, but that is
actually dicult to determine with the naked
eye; however if it has been used for a while
then you should change it! Remember that
one should always change the gasket when
one changes the diaphragm.
The rule is: The diaphragm should be facing
the carbureor casing – otherwise the lip
valves will not seal!
Now the pump should be working OK, which
you can check by using the same method as
we have previously described. If you sll –
despite everything – are not able to receive
fuel then the needle valve must be stuck and
in that case there is nothing else to do than to
connue. The pump pushes the fuel forward
towards the needle valve, but it cannot open
it through its own force. The needle valve is
held closed by a spring that operates over a
lever. The master diaphragm works against
the lever, which we know from the small rivet
in the middle of the diaphragm. One side of
the diaphragm is in contact with the carbu-

22 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 23
reor’s venturi. When the fuel is sucked out
through the needle valves, the amount of fuel
beneath the diaphragm is reduced. This in
turn applies pressure to the lever and cancels
the spring’s force. Now the inlet valve can
open and more and more fuel can ow in –
the chamber beneath the diaphragm lls up
and the diaphragm moves outwards. In this
way the spring closes the needle valve and
maintains a relavely constant amount of fuel
in readiness for the needle valves.
Fuel can nd its way out of the chamber
to the carbureor’s venturi via the H and L
screws. The channels there are so thin that
the fuel will not normally escape of its own
accord but rather must be sucked out. The
shape and placement of the channels in the
venturi decide the characteriscs of the car-
bureor. That is however not something that
we shall go into in any more detail here.
Now we can start with the needle valve.
Take away the pressed metal cap and the
master diaphragm together with its gasket.
By loosening the small screw that can now
be reached, the needle valve can be disas-
sembled. Be careful that the spring does
not come loose! Now you should check the
needle valve itself (nr: 25) to ensure that its
pin is totally even – change it if you are un-
sure. Check that the seang at the boom of
the valve appears to be even and undamaged.
Unfortunately it can happen that the seang
sustains damage in which case the valve will
not be able to close properly.
When you have checked and cleaned ev-
erything it is me to reassemble the needle
valve with its lever. The spring should not be
deformed (you should always have a couple
available to change when necessary) and the
lever should not be bent. When you assemble
the valve, the part of the lever that has a fork
that ts onto the master diaphragm’s rivet
should lie exactly at the edge of the carburet-
tor’s rough surface.
Now you should aach a small air pump with
a manometer (art nr: 5054) to the fuel nipple
on the pump side. Drop a few drops of fuel
down onto the needle valve and pump up
the pressure on your pump. At approx. 1.0
kp/cm2 the inlet valve should open and aer
that it should release air through it down to
a pressure of approx. 0.5 kp/cm2. Now the
valve should be totally sealed! If this test does
not appear to have worked properly then the
queson is, what should we do next? The
most common problem is probably that the
valve is not sealed, and in that case one must
search for dirt or pores or else change the
needle valve. PLEASE NOTE! Leaking gas-
kets on the pump side will exhibit the same
symptoms. If the opening or sealing pressure
is not correct then you will have to change
the spring and lever unl it does appear to be
correct.
OK – now the valve is correctly adjusted.
What other faults could exist? The master
diaphragm – maybe?! It is most likely so that
far too many master diaphragms are changed
for no good reason. There are strong forces at
work on the diaphragm. One should really be
able to feel that it has become s before it is
denitely me to change it. Check the gasket
(that is lying closest to the carbureor casing
on this side of the carbureor).
Assuming that you have cleaned the carburet-
tor properly and that the High Speed and Low
Speed screws are not damaged, then there is
really not too much more that can be wrong.
The only thing that remains now is to check if
the engine is dicult to start and if it refuses
to react when the seng of the L-needle
is changed. In that case there could be dirt
under the expansion cap that is located
beneath the master diaphragm. The fuel from
the Low Speed needle passes through a small
chamber on its way out to the venturi and on
very rare occasions this chamber can become
clogged. In such a case one should bore a 2
mm hole in the middle of the cap (nr 20) and
then pry it away using a sharp object that one
can sck into the hole. Thereaer you should
carefully check all of the channels running to
and from the chamber and seal those with a
new expansion cap that you must carefully
put in place using a mandrel 8 mm. Now
there should not be any more faults with your
carbureor.
Normally these diaphragm carbureors are
extremely reliable. They are developed for
use with chainsaws and snowmobiles. On
very rare occasions one may come across a
carbureor that does not provide sasfactory
performance. In that case you should borrow
an idencal one if possible. If you noce a
large dierence in the performance of the
carbureor you have borrowed compared
with your own then you should change your
carbureor. It is more or less a praccal
impossibility to alter the fuel channels in a
carbureor on one’s own.
4. Starter equipment
On engines that are equipped with a manual
coil starter (or Magnapull starter), the coil or
the return spring may need to be changed.
The basic rule regarding an eventual change
is that the return spring may never be drawn
to such an extent that it causes a stoppage
for the coil when it is fully drawn. A small
amount of “give” should always exist in the
spring when the coil is fully drawn.

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35061
35160-1
35150
35157
35151
35059
35391
35089
35090
35090-1
3095
4118
3093
35158
55125
55153
32076
35156
55153
55161
55164
33158
35163
35087-1
35132
35133
55159
55125
3514735096
6029
6029
35048
35161
3158-1
35065
32091
30555
35050
3056
35155
35161
32162-1
55164
35085
35053
55173
55143
55129
55126
4119
55154
55156
55125
35086
351441
35201
35094
35166
3063
35049
3077
35144-2
32157
35146
35512
35078
35092
35097
35098
24 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 25
30550 Sparkplug NKG BPM 7A..........................
3056 Sparkplug cap ..........................................
3093 Mainbearing 6203 TN9 C3.......................
3095 Key ...........................................................
32076 Ignitioncoil 95, 120 Selettra......................
32157 Flywheel 95, 120 ES ................................
35162 Support for starter engine ........................
32162-1Support for starter engine.........................
33158 Flywheel hub 95, 120 ES .........................
35048 Carburettor Tillotson HS-319A .................
35049 Throttle cable support .............................
35053 Exhaustgasket..........................................
35059 Engine cover ...........................................
35061 Sprocket cover ........................................
35065 Inletange in rubber .................................
35086 Piston ring ................................................
35087 Piston R 95...............................................
35090 Cylinder gasket 0,15 ................................
35090-1Cylinder gasket 0,25 ................................
35091 Needlebearing..........................................
35092 Crankshaft complete ................................
35096 Washer clutchdrum .................................
35132 Exhaust ange R 95.
35144 Clutch drum..............................................
35147 Needlebearing for clutch 95 .....................
35150 Crankcase ...............................................
35151 Crankcase gasket ...................................
35154 Cover for starter support .........................
35155 Neeedlebearing bendix ............................
35156 Support for start engine............................
35158 Bendix for startengine ..............................
35159 Startergear with clutch complete..............
32112 Startbutton for R 95, 120..........................
35510 Batteri/start box complete Raket..............
35515 Batterysupport complete ..........................
35517 Clamp for battery support R 95................
55164 Screw 6 X 35............................................
Split drawing engine
35160 Plug for sensor.........................................
35161 Carburettor ange ....................................
4118 Flywheel nut 60, 95, 120..........................
55153 Screw 6x20 10 pc.....................................
55154 Screw 6x14 10 pc.....................................
55159 Screw 6x25 10 pc.....................................
55161 Screw 6x30 10 pc.....................................
55164 Screw 6x35 10 pc.....................................
6029 Oilsealing sprocket side Teon.................

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Tillotson HS-319A
35059
35205
55156
55392
33138
33134-1
33131
33153
33132 33136
33135
ITEM NO.
PART NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
Snörstart/QTY.
1
35059 Fläktkåpa
35059
2
33134-Linhjul 07-
1
3
33153 Sammansatt
2
4 33131 1
5
ISO 10642 - M4 x 12 ---
12S
1
6
55392-Försänkt
aluminiumbricka 6X20
1
7
35205-Starthandtag
Raket 95
1
8
33138-Startsnöre
1
9
33136-Friktionsring
Aluminium
1
10
33132-O-Ring för
linhjulsaxel 12,1X1,6
1
11
33135 Magnuapull
fjäder
1
26 R 95 Manual - English R 95 Manual - English 27
Splitdrawing manual start
35059 Aircoat ......................................................
33134 String disc 07- ..........................................
33153 Start boss .................................................
33131 Axle for stringdisc 07-...............................
35205 Starthandle...............................................
33138 Start string................................................
33136 Frictionring Aluminium..............................
33132 O-Ring för string disc axlee......................
55156 Screw countersunk 6x20..........................
55392 Countersunk aluminium washer 6X20 .....
3013 Plate .........................................................
3014 Screw .......................................................
3015 Choke axle ...............................................
3016 Cap...........................................................
3017 Main diaphragm .......................................
3018 Gasket......................................................
3019 Screw .......................................................
3020 Expansion cap..........................................
3022 Screw .......................................................
3023 Axle ..........................................................
3024 Lever ........................................................
3025 Valve ........................................................
3026 Spring.......................................................
3027 Expansion cap..........................................
3028 Circlip .......................................................
3029 Fuel elbow................................................
3030 Tube tting................................................
3031 High speed mixture screw........................
3032 Spring.......................................................
3033 Ball ...........................................................
3034 Spring.......................................................
3035 Low speed mixture screw.........................
3036 Spring.......................................................
3037 Screw .......................................................
3038 Screw .......................................................
3039 Bushing ....................................................
3040 Spring.......................................................
3041 Control plate.............................................
3042 Filter small................................................
3043 Filter .........................................................
3044 Screw .......................................................
3045 Diaphragm Std .........................................
3045-1 Diaphragm plastic ....................................
3045-2 Diaphragm Teon.....................................
3046 Gasket......................................................
3047 Pump cover ..............................................
Split drawing carbureor

Radne Motor AB
Markörgatan 2, 136 44 Handen (Stockholm), Sweden
Tel 08-556 506 90
info@radne.se
www.radne.se
Your dealer:
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