RBC kits F35 90MM User manual

Thank you for purchasing F35 90mm from www.rbckits.com
For the first time, R/C enthusiasts we have a choice in scale and fun flyer aircraft designs.
Our goal, through computer technology and state-of-the-art production techniques, is to offer aircraft
which in the past have not been modelled simply because they weren’t popular enough to justify mass
production. Our production techniques allow us to produce aircraft which, though not as popular and
well known as P-51s and P-47s, still offer historical significance (good or bad!), Good looks and flying
characteristics, and a uniqueness that is sure to turn heads wherever you take your airplane!
Your airplane has many unique features in its design:
CAD Design
CAD design allows strength to be built into the airplane without sacrificing weight. Accurate parts
design and placement ensures a perfect fit.
CAD Drawn Plans
The plans in this kit are not copied from a master set! They are originals drawn directly from the CAD
program where the airplane was designed. We do this because it allows us to use colour, which helps
you better visualize the various components of the airplane, and we can use better quality paper,
which greatly reduces the possibility of shrinkage.
Since you’re going to build directly on the plans, they ought to be the proper size! Also, parts
placement is guaranteed to be accurate, so you can build a better, straighter model.
Small and hard-to-produce parts are simply a computer file away, so you get a more accurate airplane.
Lightening Holes
Lightening holes are cut into all ribs and formers where possible and justified. This allows us to keep
the weight on each plane to a minimum without sacrificing strength.
The same program that generates the design and plans also drives the cnc cutter, so every part is
reproduced exactly as it was designed. Cnc cutting also allows us to fit more parts on each sheet of

wood, reducing the waste, and lowering the cost to you.
Plastics
Several parts are accurately reproduced high quality Polystyrene, the canopy is made from PETG or
Lexan
General Building Information
The F35 90MM can be built by a person with experienced building skills. It is not designed for someone
who has built a trainer or low wing sport plane. No unusual building techniques are required, although
more difficult areas are explained in detail where necessary. Certain steps in the building process must
be followed as depicted, or you might find yourself digging back into the structure to redo something.
These areas are outlined when necessary. Occasionally hints will be included at certain building steps.
These are not required for completion, rather they are tips intended to ease a particular process. The
cnc router does cut through the wood, as a result of this, occasionally there will be fraying on the
surface of the wood. This is normal, and is only a surface problem and does not affect the wood in any
other way. Similarly, the cnc settings are optimized for wood thickness averages, so occasionally, due
to variations even in individual sheets, some areas might not cut through completely. Simply use care
in cutting the parts from the sheets; most of the time, the parts will break out of the sheets!
Hardware and an edf unit are not included in the kit. There are so many choices for quality hardware
that these choices are left to the individual preferences of the builder, rather than include something
in the kit that you’ll probably throw away anyway.
This aircraft is not a toy. It must be flown in a responsible manner according to the rules set forth by
Law. The builder assumes the responsibility for the proper assembly and operation of this product.
Rbckits shall have no liability whatsoever, implied or expressed, arising out of the intentional or
unintentional neglect, misuse, abuse, or abnormal usage of this product. Rbckits shall have no liability
whatsoever arising from the improper or wrongful assembly of the product nor shall it have any
liability due to the improper or wrongful use of the assembled product. Rbckits shall have no liability
for any and all additions, alterations, and modifications of this product.
Having said that, turn the page and start building the best airplane kits on the market!
Material you might need:
Balsa knife, Stanley knife, straightedge, building board 1500mm
ca glue medium, thin, thick you need approx. 6 bottles, building nails, tape
Or use white glue, and canopy glue, epoxy for the canopy and cowls
Some drilling and bending tools, wire cutter, safety goggles etc. etc.
For finishing you need:
Glass 25 gram or japan paper 12 gr 3mtr and filler dope 1 litre, brushes sanding paper, paint
of your choice

Wheels as on the drawing, controls, motor, battery etc.
All vacuumformings should be roughened up before gluing
Check the 3d pdf (you need adobe x10) and pictures for additional information; a picture
says more as a 1000 words so do look at the pictures on the cd
Fuselage:
Start by taking out all formers from their sheet and marking them with the correct nr as per plan.
Pin down the build support sheets and place the build support formers.
Build up the tail part of the fuselage formers with the edf formers, DO NOT glue yet

Place carefully the F36 formers with the Midpiece to the build support and place the other formers.
Place bottom formers F35, note do not join them yet. Do not glue anything
Join F38 and join F37 place them in assembly and place top formers F34

Place F18 between F37 and F38.
Place F16 and place former F13
When all formers are in and the fuselage is lined out to the build support, the carefully glue formers
with ca or thin white glue so the assembly becomes ridged.
Care should be taken with the tail section do not apply to much pressure here
Place taileron hinges with help from the 6mm carbon rod. And place rudder formers and 6x3 balsa as
per plan
Before you put in F44 the servo former, try your servo for fit and fit through the opening in F31

Make the edf hatch, do make a bit of room with help from some thick cardboard along the sides of the
hatch, and place top stringers
Star by making up the front cabin part with the joining retract formers 92pcs) and glueing to F6 Place
Formers one by one do not glue yet until assembly is joined with fuselage

The fuselage is removed from the building frame as you see turned over and glue the front assembly
to the fuselage. Place formers RF5 and fill pieces
Sheet the bottom part of the cabin retract part
Place top formers F8 and F8B and sheet top part of fuselage front

The duct lining is pre-cut, but carefully slide it in the fuselage
Sand and join them at the edf side, wet the outer duct shells with a little water to make them flexible
Carefully put them in and push them in the corners with help from a drop of ca here and there. They
are a 2 piece part 1 slides over the other

Close the gaps on top and bottom of the intake ducts with scrap balsa.
Place F1 into nosecone and sand to fit to the fuselage place dowels 6mm for easy positioning.

Now carefully start sheeting the fuselage with the 2mm balsa sheeting, you might need to sand or
plane the edges to obtain a good fit on each other.
Best is to use ca for gluing to the formers and a well sanding balsa glue, like ulu hart between the
strips.
You need 2x12 strip also, cut the rudder openings.
Check for good fit of the rudders. And place all your wiring for battery retracts etc.
When top sheeting is done you can carefully release the fuselage from the build support and turn it
over, we use a model stand for easy handling see https://www.rbckits.com/shop/model-stand-
medium.html

Sheet the bottom with balsa 2 and balsa 2mm strip
Sand sides and sheet them.
Sand the intakes to shape. Make the front retract opening and place retract.
Place wings to fuselage, we use slow glue for this

Place steering servo
Use braided wire for steering
Make the hatch from the cut-out or place cut-out with an opening for the wheel and leg closing.
We used a wire closing and spring to open the hatch, we fasten the hatch to Kavan hinges for easy

removal, and we used 2,2x6mm fasteners
Place edf and controller and wiring make the exhaust duct from the supplied PVC sheet as per plan.
Join the duct with tape, fold it in and place into fuselage to edf unit
Make the tail cone from F40 and the vacuum formed cone; open the sides to clear the taileron servos

Fasten the exhaust cone with 2,9x13 fasteners; this will also hold the exhaust duct
Cut the canopy to the inscribed lines and glue to the canopy frame CF1, CF2, CF3 fastener and CF4,CF6
The canopy back part is glued to the fuselage and holds CF4
Wings:
Start with a flat building board with the size for the wing and fuselage
Place the drawing of the wing on the building board and protect it with plastic.
Start by making the bottom sheeting from the supplied balsa sheet, place the sheets on the work plate
and nail them down , use cello-tape to connect the edges, take them off and glue the edges with thick
ca , place on the work plate and sand down the glued edge, turn the sheet over and take of the cello
tape and sand the edges, now there will be one smooth side and a lesser smooth side , this is because
of the thickness of the balsa is not even, the non-smooth side will be the inside of the sheeting.

Take out all ribs and formers out of their sheets; you can mark the formers with a soft pencil if you like
sand of all holding tabs.
Place main formers on bottom and place doublers; check the drawing for the correct position of the
doublers. Frame up the wing assembly on the sheeting
Mark the main-formers ribs on the bottom sheeting, place main-formers on sheeting place ribs, do not
glue yet, make sure for straightness.
If all seems ok then pin down the main former and start glueing the ribs with thin ca one by one to the
bottom sheeting, note roll the ribs over the sheeting and apply ca
Glue wing assembly to bottom sheeting. Place retract formers in front part of wing (not as shown on
build pictures)

Place other side main formers and ribs; work out wing same as start side
Place sub leading edge to the bottom sheeting and to the ribs.
Do this the same for the other side of the wing. sand the sub leading edge to the ribs .
Make up the top sheeting as per plan, do make oversize, turn over wing and place the help former
as per plan with a few drops of ca

Pin down one wing side as the marked position as per plan, cut the sheeting as close to the wing as
practical,
Start sheeting from the sub leading edge backwards, and glue sheeting to formers.
Place leading edge and sand to shape, make up wing tips and sand these to shape and to match the
wing
Place wing joiners and dowels, do not glue yet
Open up the bottom sheeting to place the retract units in your kit they will be in the forward bay,
unless you want to have the more scale position, it will make rotating more difficult.
The leg and wheel openings are cut.
Cut out the landing gear hatches and glue to the fuselage

Cut around the vacuum formed hatches to take out the assembled hatch. Take out the temp former
Make the wing fairings fit and cut the wheel doors, line them with 3x6 balsas.
Place hinges and closing wires as per drawing, or use extra servos for the wheel doors
Stabilizer and rudders:
Rudders:
Make up the rudder parts as per plan, they are simple sheet, sand them to shape
Stabilizer:
Make up parts and sheeting as per plan sand taileron to shape place hinges and horn with help from
the 6mm carbon rod

Do try fit to fuselage for throws and free movement
Place scrap fills to the tailerons as per plan and sand to shape

Finishing:
The whole airframe is covered in 12gr japan paper and doped with filler dope, DO NOT USE SHRINKING
DOPE EVER.
Filler dope is not too hard to sand, and filled with some extra talcum powder sands great and smooth,
when ready a thinned layer of sanding dope is OK
Now finish with... Vallejo, humbrol or we used cheap spray cans... take care for the vacuumformings as
some paints will not hold as good, or worse will dissolve or make it brittle
Canopy:
Cut oversize... And test fit to fuselage, glue with canopy glue, or ca and make it lively with pilot, radios,
etc. The canopy framing can be painted on
Have you found an error in the drawing or parts or instructions, just mail us at in[email protected]
I am sure we can find a solution for your build.
Some tips:
We used electric retracts for the F35 90mm, and we used a separate battery for the retracts this makes
it safer, air set is also possible, the weight difference is none
Flying:
The F35 90mm easy lifts of and is easy to fly you do not need flaps for take-off! (this does not work
flaps gives a nose heavy moment), landing: plan it in and land it as usual but do not make it to slow
.the F35 90mm glides very well with wheels in in case of ….
A 6S battery is powerful enough, 8S possible or Turbine
Throws of the rudders etc., we like them big, but it might be too much so always, make them large and
have a dual rate button in your fingers, to small throws is most of the time problems, to large... it is in
your fingers
If you need additional pictures, just ask.
Have Fun with the F35 90MM
Additional pictures are on the disk , also a 3d pdf , where you can see all parts of the F35 90mm in 3d ,
you need adobe 10X to view, it will not work in your browser
WWW.RBCKITS.COM
Rontgenweg 16G
2408AB Alphen aan den Rijn
Netherlands