RF-System PMSDR User manual

Software-Defined-Radio
for HF and VHF

PMSDR
Software-Defined Radio for HF and VHF
v1.0 - Apr. 2011
“From Factory to Field Usage”
Copyright Notice
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be transferred either in complete or excerpted form, using electronic or mechanical
methods, duplicated, or copied or otherwise transcribed by whatever method.
Information contained in the Manual may change without prior notification, and such
changes imply no obligations on RF<->SYSTEM ©.
.
Copyright 2011 RF-SYSTEM ©
http://www.rfsystem.it
http://www.iw3aut.altervista.org

Introduction
3
Contents
Introduction 4
Assembly Instructions 6
PMSDR Circuit Board 10
Optional Display 13
Optional Enclosure 16
Optional T/R Switch 17
Optional VHF/UHF Down-Converter 22
Driver and Software Installation 26
Specifics for the PC Software Program HDSDR 33
Choice of a Suitable Soundcard 37
Testing the Soundcard / Soundcard Tester 39
Installing the DLL 44
Techniques for Use with HDSDR (Pan-Adapter) 50
Ways of using the EXTIO_PMSDR.INI 64
FM Reception in 3rd Harmonic-Mode 69
Examples
DREAM 73
PowerSDR-IQ 77
Winrad Variants 82
Firmware Updates 85
Accessories
Lab Report 93
Circuit Diagrams 99
Trouble Shooting/Test Points 102
Appendix I
Introduction to the Fundamentals of SDR Technology 105
PMSDR Block Diagram 113
References, Links, Legends 115
Panadapter Mode: Quick Outline 117
Appendix II
PMSDR & WIN7 119
WinRad: Hot Keys 130
The CD 131
Liability Disclaimer 132
Freeware 133
Key Word List / Index 135

Introduction
4
Introduction
The PMSDR is an example of a
QSD-SDR Receiver (Quadrature -
Sample-Detector; Software-Defined-
Radio). The concepts applied here
produce a clean output spectrum,
very low phase noise, and an almost
unbeatable cost/capability ratio. This
way, one may produce a small but
capable SDR receiver with a general
suitability over the complete
shortwave domain. The control
connection to the PC, as well as the
DC power, takes place through a
USB connection. The I/Q outputs are
connected to the stereo line input of
the PC’s soundcard. Audio is
available via either headphones or
loudspeaker.
Fig. 1: PC-PMSDR Connections
This offers a simple and capable
solution for all conceivable options
for long and shortwave reception.
A novel use of oscillator overtones
makes even VHF reception possible,
with only a small loss of sensitivity.
Reception is also possible in the 2m
amateur band (144MHz), without an
additional converter.
If there is concern over restrictions
imposed by this method, an optional
down-converter is available.
■ Free Software
Ultimately, reception takes place on
the PC via free software.
The connecting link between the
hardware and the control software is
a so-called DLL (Dynamic Link
Library). This DLL contains program
code used by both the PMSDR and
the PC control software.
With this DLL, PMSDR possesses
wide ranging capabilities. Among
others, it will function as a
bidirectional, tunable Panadapter.
There are many additional options,
interconnection possibilities, and
CAT-Interfaces to other programs as
well, including several transceivers
that are already available, or being
continuously adapted and further
developed.
PMSDR works optimally and with
support of all the capabilities offered
by the DLL mentioned above, with
the outstanding software program
“Winrad.“ Winrad was first developed
for Windows by Alberto (I2PHD), but
unfortunately this software was not
further developed by its author.
Alberto graciously placed the source
code in the public domain. Capable
individuals are continuously
developing these programs.

Construction Notes
5
On the accompanying CD you will
find the most current Winrad version
in its original form [3] as well as its
extension as HDSDR [8] (previously
WinradHD), and WRplus [10].
There has been a further very
significant development in a program
called WinradF [9]. Unfortunately the
link to the home page of this author
is inactive, and at present no one
knows if this important beginning will
be followed further...
With a loss of a bit of operator
convenience, PMSDR can also
operate with PowerSDR-IQ, with
G8JCFSDR Software, as well as with
the SDR Shell for Linux.
All modes can be received with this
software. Virtual interfaces
(additional software, for example:
VAC, Com0Com, VSPE; on the CD)
make possible operation with other
software, for example that for digital
modes.
■ The Receiver
The receiver in the PMSDR is
designed to be a highly capable all-
band receiver for the frequency
range 0.1-55 MHz. Thanks to the
excellent properties of the mixer,
supported by automatically switched
preselection filters, the large signal
behavior is unusually good.
Experiments with the large 40m full-
size loop from the QRP-Project [5]
have demonstrated that the PMSDR
shows that it can, even in the
evening hours, and without a
preselector, receive the weakest
amateur signals. Therefore, PMSDR
is an ideal tool for monitoring for the
amateur radio operator as well as for
the shortwave listener. Even friends
of the “magic band“ can listen in on
the activity of the 50 MHz band
without difficulty.
■ Requirements on the PC
The requirements on the capabilities
of the PC are not severe. Even
running the system on a netbook
causes no problems with PMSDR.
■Further Development
PMSDR is continuously in
development. Please visit the
developer’s web site on a regular
basis [1]. You will probably find a
current DLL, or also new Firmware
which can be quickly installed in
PMSDR over the USB connection.
You will find detailed
technical information in an
Appendix.

Construction Notes
6
Construction Notes
This kit is tailored to meet your
particular requirements. All parts that are
really difficult to handle (surface mount
devices) have been installed on the
circuit boards by professional circuit
board producers using automatic
positioning devices.
To complete the kit, only the installation
of the uncritical, larger components
(such as LEDs, headers, sockets,
crystals, and so forth) remains. This
requires no experience soldering SMD
components, greatly facilitating the
mounting process. One estimates the
necessary time for assembly of the main
circuit board and enclosure to be
approximately one hour!
With a suitable antenna, you are quickly
on target to hear your first stations.
■ The Kits
The scope of delivery varies
considerably, according to your
needs.
Fig. 2: PMSDR Kit
Figure 2 shows only the PMSDR Kit,
which can be expanded at any time
by adding Display, Enclosure, T/R
Switch (Switchboard) and Down-
Converter.
Fig. 3: Enclosure Kit
Fig. 4: Display Kit
Fig. 5: Down-Converter Kit

Construction Notes
7
Fig. 6: Switchboard T/R Kit
■ Protect against Static
Electricity!
During soldering and when handling
the boards, one must be certain to
provide full protection against static
electricity.
Electrostatic discharge can easily
destroy the chips on the circuit
boards. Such damage can cause
later difficulty in troubleshooting and
in localizing problems. A grounding
strap or wrist band is not absolutely
necessary, but if you have one, use
it. Touching a grounded surface,
such as a nearby radiator or the
exterior of your soldering station is
sufficient. IF you should feel a static
discharge (a “shock”), regard this as
“Level Red” and look for the reason.
Are you perhaps standing on a
carpet? If so, use a different
workplace. If you are wearing felt or
fur slippers, immediately change to
other shoes (or work barefoot).
Components that are particularly
static-sensitive are marked in the
parts list and specifically pointed out
in the assembly instructions. Be sure
to leave these parts in their antistatic
packaging until you are actually
ready to use them. The packaging
consists either of an antistatic plastic
bag, or conductive plastic foam into
which the leads of the parts are
inserted.
■ Soldering
If this is your first experience with
soldering on circuit boards, please
definitely read further. The
experienced among you can skip this
section without further ado.
■ Tools needed:
You will find the following set of tools
to be adequate:
-Solder: ca. 0.5 to 0.7mm
-Desoldering braid: 2.5mm
-Soldering iron: ca. 30 to 50 watt, best
if temperature regulated and with a
narrow chisel tip.
-A small electronics sidecutter and
various screwdrivers will be useful.
-A particularly useful device is a “third
hand,” which greatly facilitates the
work. Circuit board holders of various
types are available (vide [6] or [7]).
Fig. 7: Third Hand

Construction Notes
8
All circuit boards are double sided,
and all holes are plated through. This
means that one does not have to
(and should not!) solder on the
component side of the boards. In a
few cases (changes in the enclosure
originating with the vendor), it may
become necessary to place a
component on the conductor side of
the board. Always work with a
preheated soldering iron. If you are
able to set the temperature of the
iron, use 350°C to 400°C. Use a
minimal soldering time! Beginners,
particularly, have a tendency to stay
on a solder point too long, detaching
a conductor trace and applying an
excess of solder. One should never
use any additional soldering aids
such as liquid flux, soldering paste.
Modern-day solder for electronics
use contains a core of flux that
already serves this purpose.
■ Lead-Free, If You Please!
At present, there are solders of
various compositions. The high toxic
lead content makes it necessary to
comply with the provisions of EHS!
During soldering, do not place your
nose directly in the smoke coming
from the operation! Commercially-
available so-called "environmentally
friendly" solder has not been proven
in practice. The cheapest and most
widely used alloy, called Sn64Pb36,
consists of 64% tin and 36% lead.
Compositions with 2% copper or
silver have a lower melting point,
which makes the soldering
somewhat easier, and the joints are
noticeably shiny.
The latter has of course no particular
electrical significance, but pleases
many hobbyists. Whether you use
silver or copper based solder makes
no real difference except to your
wallet!
■ 30-50 Watt Soldering
Station
A soldering station that works with
low voltage and potential
equalization is optimum. Please do
not use one of the old soldering iron
models, in which the tip is inserted
into the core and held in place by a
screw. In this old style iron, the tip is
often poorly held in the heating
element and has, on this account,
very poor heat transfer. If you need
to buy a new iron, please buy a
modern one. These irons have a
plated tip and are pre-tinned.
Keep the soldering iron tip clean as
you work. Use a damp sponge or a
damp cloth to clean the tip regularly.
An 0.8 to 1.0 mm tip is ideal for
normal circuit board traces. For
large-area surfaces, this kind of tip is
not really suitable, and a somewhat
broader tip (so-called chisel point) is
advantageous because of the
improved heat transfer. At least
these two tip types are useful. They
can be interchanged when it
becomes necessary to solder, e.g.,
some large flat surface. Only heat
the point being soldered just
sufficiently to give a good
connection.
A small circuit board holder makes
working on the board easier.

Construction Notes
9
In cross-section, correct and
incorrect solder joints appear as
shown below:
Fig. 8: Solder joints
Good: The solder joint is concave in
shape.
Poor: The joint is lumpy and
saturated with solder.
Touch the board trace and the
component connection at the same
time with the soldering tip. Apply the
solder within one or two seconds.
First take away the solder, and then
the tip of the iron. Be sparing with the
solder; too much solder may cause
solder bridges to neighboring
components. If you don’t notice such
a bridge while soldering, it can be
very difficult to find at a later time. If a
solder bridge occurs, remove it
carefully with desoldering braid. This
is described in the next section.
All components should, in so far as
possible, be in contact with the board
surface. This has nothing to do with
aesthetics, but is a necessity in high
frequency technique. Accordingly,
resistors lie with their body flat on the
circuit board unless of course they
are to be installed vertically.
Capacitors are likewise installed
against the board. In other words,
there are no components with long
legs. (These are to be found
elsewhere ... )
■ Desoldering
When desoldering, only apply heat
for a minimal time, to avoid detaching
the circuit trace from the board. If you
need to completely remove a
component again, cut it with the side
cutter in such a way that each lead is
individually left. In the case of a
resistor for example, cut both leads
close to the body. In the case of
transistors, 3 leads are left, and on
an IC, cut all the leads, close to the
body of the IC. There are now two
ways to proceed: If you have a
helper (Wife, son daughter, friend;
not necessarily an expert) the rest is
quite simple: your helper pulls the
free leads one after another on your
command with a tweezer as the
soldering iron is applied on the
opposite side with just enough heat
to melt it free;. If you don’t have
someone to assist, both heating and
extraction must be cleverly executed
at the same time.

Construction Notes
10
This works best with the aid of a
stable board holder, as mentioned
above. When the leads have been
removed, then the component
hole(s) can be cleaned with
desoldering braid. Use braid with a
width of 2.5 mm, and always work
with a clean, fresh piece. Cut and
discard used pieces of the braid
before using it anew. Put a small
surface of the braid on the solder
point, then put your soldering iron
lightly against the braid, until the
solder is sucked up into the copper.
The component can then be easily
removed, replaced, and soldered
cleanly in place. Use a circuit board
holder, as we have mentioned
several times already. This frees
both hands, and also makes the re-
soldering go much more simply!
Since soldering is a general part of
electronics assembly, we give here a
URL containing videos dealing with a
wide variety of situations:
www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp
■ Filling the PMSDR Board
Let's start with the installation of a
few of the remaining additional
components. Refer to the color-
coded diagram, Fig. 9. Take care
that the BNC jacks lie flat on the
board. If this is done, their leading
edge is exactly parallel to the PCB
edge.
Fig. 9: Insertion Diagram, PMSDR-
Board
Parts / Locations:
[ ] Red: Crystal
[ ] Orange: 3x USB/BNC Jacks
[ ] Green: 2x 2-rowed headers
[ ] Yellow: LED Block
[ ] Violet: HF-Transformer
[ ] Bright Blue: 3x 1-rowed headers
[ ] Dark Blue: 2x Buttons
Check the box when each
component type is installed.
Crystal: The orientation of the
crystal is immaterial.
[ ] Crystal
Headers: (vide also Page 14!)
Headers are always mounted
with the short ends inserted
into the circuit board. Make sure that
they sit flat on the board surface.
[ ] 2-Rowed Header (2x10 PIN’s)
[ ] 2-Rowed Header (2x 8 PIN’s)
The double LED block must also sit
squarely and parallel, aligned with
the front edge of the board.

Construction Notes
11
[ ] Double LED Block
Some of the row headers must be
cut from a longer header with a sharp
sidecutter. Place the headers so that
they sit perpendicular to the board
surface.
[ ] 1 Row, 8 Pin Header (SV1)
[ ] 2 ditto. 1 Row, 2 Pin (JP2/JP3)
Nothing is to be installed at
positions SV4, SV5, SV6, and
JP1.
The small six-legged component in
the components package is a
prefabricated HF transformer.
Fig. 10 HF Transformer
[ ] Trafo MCL T4-6
It is marked: MCL T4-6.
Place it on the pads so that the label
is readable viewing from the side
with the jacks. Solder as usual from
the solder side of the board.
Fig. 11: Positioning the Leads
If the pins do not fit straight into the
holes, bend them using gentle
pressure on a hard surface, as in Fig.
11 above..
Fig. 12: Alternative Conformation
Another supplier may provide a
component with legs clearly bent to
the sides. As an exception, solder
this component from the upper side
of the circuit board. The solder pads
are ready for this case.

Construction Notes
12
Jacks and Buttons:
Again, note that these sit level on the
board, and are aligned parallel to the
front board edge. On the ground pins
of the BNC plugs, use a suitably-hot
iron with a broad tip to avoid damage
to the board by overheating as a
result of heating too long. Even if the
buttons have a square shape, the
solder tails are not arranged in a
square but rectangular form. Don’t
use force on the solder eyelets;
insure that the solder tails sit exactly
over the solder eyelets. Press the
buttons carefully against the board.
The leads snap into place when they
are properly positioned.
[ ] Stereo Jack for 3.5 mm plug.
[ ] USB Jack
[ ] 2x pushbuttons
[ ] BNC Jack
[ ] Antenna
Do not install if installing
the Switchboard option!

Construction Notes
13
■ Option: Display
If you didn’t order the display option,
skip to the section on installation of
the PMSDR in the enclosure…
There are displays on the
market that produce very
significant interference, and which
therefore have a severe influence on
the sensitivity of reception with the
PMSDR. The display we deliver was
chosen for its minimal interference,
and its power supply is also
decoupled.
Fig. 13: Display Kit
The display unit, with adhesive and
frame, is delivered ready to use.
Examine Figs. 14 and 15 for
placement of screws and plastic
spacer.
Fig. 14: Display Assembly
At this point, prepare the ribbon
cable for connection to the display.
Insert Spacers Here

Construction Notes
14
Fig. 15: Display in place and
connected
Split the cable end opposite from the
connector as follows. Begin with wire
number 1 (with the red tracer). If your
cable has no red tracer, see Fig. 15.
Fig. 16: Prepared Ribbon Cable
This shows how to identify wire 1 via
the connector if the color tracer is
missing. If possible, use your
fingernail rather than a tool. Divide
the ribbon cable between the 6th and
7th wire for 3 to 5 cm. Count further
to the 10th wire and divide the cable
again between wires 10 and 11.
Cut away about 2 cm of the free
section (wires 7-10). Now, again
using your fingernail, separate the
individual wires 1 through 6 and 11
through 16 so that the ends are each
ca. 2 cm long.
Pin-1
Pin-1
Potentiometer:
LCD-Contrast
1-6 7-10 11-16

Construction Notes
15
Strip off about 3 mm of the
insulation. Here again do not use a
sidecutter, as in so doing, it is highly
probable that you will damage the
thin wires and make breaks in them.
A good wire stripper, however, will
work very well. Especially good are
the automatic versions, with a
relatively wide “mouth.“ These types
can strip the ribbon cable, several
wires at once. The insulation on the
ribbon cable supplied can, however,
be easily nicked and removed with
the thumb nail. Check the resulting
strands. If they are fanned out, then
carefully use two fingers to twist
them together. Tin the wire ends very
lightly, so that there are no loose
strands.
Fig. 17: Solder Ribbon Cable
Subsequent soldering of the ribbon
cable is greatly simplified if the
display is placed in a suitable holder
or clamps.
In what follows, pay close attention
that the wires are soldered exactly in
the order 1-6 and 11-16. Nowhere do
two wires cross! The ribbon cable is
inserted strand by strand into the
corresponding pads of the display
board. Examine Fig. 15 and 17.
Begin on the right with wire 1 and
solder 1-6. Eyelets 7-10 remain
open, corresponding to the fact that
you earlier cut back the wires on the
ribbon cable. Finish by soldering
wires 11-16. At this point the display
can be fastened to the front panel.
Use the 2mm nuts and bushings
supplied. Follow Fig. 14; the nuts are
on the innermost position inside the
housing.
Addendum for headers and
header connectors.
If your kit was supplied with mounted
pins instead of bare ones, the
printing 16 (or 20, respectively)
shows the position of the notch on
the board. Be careful to follow this
orientation.

Construction Notes
16
■ Option: Enclosure
Installation using the optional
enclosure is quite simple. Remove
the nut and lock washer from the
BNC jack, as well as the nut from the
stereo jack. Insert the back panel
right side up on the board edge
bearing these jacks, and install the
nut and lock washer on the BNC jack
and the nut onto the stereo jack,
leaving them loose.
Fig. 18: Enclosure (Housing) Kit
Tighten these nuts before installing
the upper part of the housing...
Fig. 19: Insert Circuit Board Here
Slide the circuit board into the U-
shaped lower section, using the first
(lowest) slot.
Now attach the rear panel at the
bottom with 2 of the 8 self-tapping
enclosure screws. The screws will be
a bit hard to turn, as on first insertion
they have to cut their own threads.
When the back panel is attached, the
front panel (with or without the
display) can be screwed to the front
side.
If you have the display,
don’t attach the cover,
since the contrast potentiometer
may need to be adjusted.
If you don’t have the display, the
upper cover can now be mounted.
Best Wishes
We’re about finished, and not far
from receiving the first signals.
If you did not order any
options, skip directly to the
Start-up Chapter on page 25.

Construction Notes
17
■ Option: T/R Switch
(Switchboard)
Fig. 20: T/R Switch Option
The switch is available in two
variants, which differ only in the
cutouts of the rear panel. If you
ordered your kit including the switch,
you received rear panel Type 2.
Fig. 21: Type 2 Rear Panel; In this
case, do not install the antenna
jack on the PMSDR circuit board!
In the other case, i.e. when
retrofitting, you receive a rear panel
of Type 1.
Fig. 22 Type 1 Rear Panel
Fig. 23: Switch Circuit Board
This board is, like the PMSDR board,
delivered with SMD in place.
Fig. 24: Switch Layout
Populate the board with the 7
components as follows:
Placement of Components:
[ ] Rd: Relay
[ ] Orange: 2x BNC Jacks
[ ] Green: 2-Rowed Header
[ ] Yellow: LED Block
[ ] Light Blue: MMCX/SMA-Jack
[ ] Dark Blue: LED Block
[ ] Coax Cable with MMCX Plug
Install the individual components
according to their corresponding
colors.

Construction Notes
18
You should first attach both BNC
jacks to the rear panel, and then
solder the result to the circuit board If
you try to first mount the jacks to the
board and then mount the rear panel,
the panel will not be exactly parallel
to the board (because the BNC jacks
have a little “play.“).
Fig. 25: Finished Circuit Board
Now it is only a matter of connecting
the supplied coaxial cable to the
PMSDR, putting on the pin header to
connect the two boards, and
screwing the board to the back
panel. But first things first:
Fig. 26: Prepared Coax Cable
The task now is to solder the coax
cable so that the shield connects to
the right lead, and the center
conductor connects to the left lead of
JP2 Orient the cable so that you
have the BNC jack directly in front of
you. Remove about 1 cm from the
sheath of the coax, using a sharp
knife, but being careful not to
damage the shield beneath it. Dress
the shield back away from the center
conductor (and insulation) and
remove about 5 mm of the center
conductor’s insulation. Lightly tin the
center conductor, as well as that part
of the shield you bent back away
from the tip. Tinning the shield
should be done in small stages.
Work stepwise, until you have tinned
completely around the rim. By
working in stages, you avoid melting
the center insulation by over-heating.
The cable is now ready to install. The
location is labeled JP2 on the main
circuit board. It is between the BNC
jack and IC1.

Construction Notes
19
Fig. 27: Detail around JP2
Be sure to check carefully for a short-
circuit between the pins of JP2.
The two units will finally be
connected as follows.
.
Fig. 28: Connection to JP2
Fig. 29: Interconnected Units
■ Interconnection of the Units
Now screw the switchboard down to
the back panel. This secures the
small board via the 3 screws on the
jack.

Construction Notes
20
Plug one side of the ribbon cable on
the board, as shown here.
Fig. 30: Ribbon Cable connected
Put the small coax MMCX/SMA plug
carefully in its socket.
Fig. 31: Detail, MMCX plug
Screw the rear panel to the
enclosure, and finally connect the
other end of the ribbon cable to the
row of pins SV3 on the PMSDR
board.
The cable runs directly linearly from
the upper board to the lower board.
Finally, put the enclosure cover on,
and you’re finished.
Fig. 32: T/R Switch Installed
The PMSDR with the T/R switch
installed corresponds to one or the
other of these figures:
Fig. 33: Rear, Type 2; Completed
Fig. 34: Rear, Type 1; Completed