Stanford Research Systems SR86 Series Guide

page 1 of 12 © 2016 Stanford Research Systems
JFET Replacement Instructions for
the SR86x Lock-In Amplifier Family
The input voltage preamplifier uses a low-noise matched JFET, Q202, as the front-end
active component. This component is sensitive and may be damaged by overvoltage,
including overvoltage from a static discharge (ESD). There may be situations in which
the user suspects a damaged or destroyed input JFET. Symptoms of a damaged JFET can
be excess noise, or partial or complete signal loss.
The SR86x series lock-in amplifiers are designed to permit the user to replace the input
JFET in the field if needed. The entire process should take about 90 minutes, including
the 60-minute warm-up period needed after replacing the JFET before trimming the
offset voltage.
Materials
To do this, you will need:
1. Replacement JFET (obtained from SRS)
2. Phillips head screwdriver
3. Hex wrenches, imperial size 7/64, and 0.050

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Procedure
Work should be performed in an ESD-controlled environment or workstation. Be sure
the technician is grounded before opening the instrument.
1. Turn off power to the unit, and remove the AC power cord. Disconnect all other
cables from the SR865. To access the preamplifier, the top and bottom covers
must be removed from the unit.
2. Remove the top and bottom covers
2.1. Remove the 4 large black screws from the top cover (2 on each side):
2.2. Remove the 6 small black screws from the top cover:

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2.3. Remove the top cover. Turn the instrument upside down, carefully
resting on the top. Remove the 4 large black screws from the bottom cover (2
on each side):
2.4. Remove the 6 small black screws from the bottom cover:

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3. Turn the instrument on its side, so the “SIGNAL”section is near the top:
4. Disconnect the white coax cable, and the RJ-style modular cable, from the
preamplifier enclosure. Do not attempt to disconnect the ribbon cable yet:

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5. While supporting the metal preamplifier enclosure, remove the two #6 size hex
screws securing the preamp to the chassis, using a 7/64 hex driver. Be careful to
not lose the washers beneath each hex screw:
6. Carefully back the preamp enclosure out of the instrument chassis.
6.1. Pull the box back from the front panel so the BNC connectors all slide back
out of the instrument. Be careful to not tug on the remaining ribbon cable
connected to the preamp.
6.2. With the preamp enclosure removed from the chassis, remove the two
screws holding the ribbon cable to the preamp:
Once the screws are removed, disconnect the ribbon cable from the preamp.

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7. Open the preamp assembly by removing the two small hex screws from the front
(using the 0.050 hex driver), and the 6 Phillips head screws:
Remove the lid to the preamp assembly.
8. Locate Q202, the input JFET (socketed):

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9. Carefully remove the old part from socket Q202 part (mark the old part first to
avoid possible confusion). If necessary, trim and form the leads for the
replacement JFET to match the removed part. Notice that two of the socket
positions on Q202 are left empty—it is critical that the new part be installed with
this same orientation, leaving the top and bottom contacts empty:
10.Install the replacement JFET, applying gentle pressure to fully seat all 6 leads
into the socket receptacles. When fully seated, it should look like this:

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11.Reinstall the lid for the preamp enclosure.
11.1. Be sure to align the lid so the front lip is interior to the enclosure walls;
the side and rear lips should be exterior to the walls:
11.2. Loosely thread the two small hex screws in the front, but do not tighten.
11.3. Loosely thread the remaining 6 Phillips screws, again without tightening.
11.4. Tighten the two small hex screws fully. Do not overtighten.
11.5. Tighten the remaining 6 Phillips screws.
12.Re-attach the ribbon cable. Be careful to not stress the ribbon cable

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13.Slide the preamp enclosure back into the instrument chassis.
13.1. Check that the BNC connectors are fully engaged and flush to the front
panel
partial: fully:
13.2. Apply pressure to keep the preamp engaged when reinstalling the two #6
hex screws. Be sure to install one washer with each screw:
14.Reconnect the coax and RJ-style connectors:

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15.Turn the instrument upside down, and reinstall the bottom cover.
15.1. Loosely thread the 6 small black screws first.
15.2. Loosely thread the 4 large black screws.
15.3. Tighten the 6 small black screws.
15.4. Tighten the 4 large black screws.
16.Turn the instrument right side up, and reinstall the top cover.
16.1. Loosely thread the 6 small black screws.
16.2. Loosely thread the 4 large black screws.
16.3. Tighten the 6 small black screws.
16.4. Tighten the 4 large black screws.
17.Install a 50Ωterminator, or a shorting cap, onto the A input BNC.
18.Reconnect the AC power cord, turn on the instrument, and allow 60 minutes to
warm up.
19.Press the [Save Recall] button to bring up the following screen:
20.Touch the “Recall default”tile on the screen to restore default settings. Touch the
“Confirm”tile on the screen that pops up to confirm restoring default settings.
21.Press the [Couple] button to set DC coupling.

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22.Press and hold the [Local default] button and the [Auto Phase] buttons
simultaneously. The following screen should appear:
23.The “Offset Cal”tile will perform a single offset voltage. “Offset Cal”must be
performed for each of the 5 input range settings (10 mV through 1 V), and for
AC and DC coupling separately Each calibration will require about 1 minute to
complete, for a total of 10 minutes.
24.Begin with calibrating the DC coupled settings, starting at 1 V input range:
24.1. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile. You should hear several relays click. You
can watch the calibration progress by noticing the display “R”value
changing. You will hear the instrument make a short tune when completed.
24.2. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 300 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 300 mV DC range.
24.3. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 100 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 100 mV DC range.
24.4. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 30 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 30 mV DC range.
24.5. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 10 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 10 mV DC range.
25.Next, calibrate the AC settings. Press the [Couple] button to select “AC”. Press
the INPUT RANGE [Up Arrow] several times to select the 1 V input range.
25.1. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 1 V AC range. Remember to
wait for the completion tune before moving on.
25.2. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 300 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 300 mV AC range.
25.3. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 100 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 100 mV AC range.
25.4. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 30 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 30 mV AC range.
25.5. Press the INPUT RANGE [Down Arrow] button to select 10 mV input
range. Touch the “Offset Cal”tile to calibrate the 10 mV AC range.

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26.After all 10 range / coupling combinations are calibrated, power cycle the
instrument. When the lock-in turns on, with the 50 Ωor shorting cap still
installed and the frequency at 3.0 Hz (set by the Offset Cal function), verify the
displayed “R”value is less than 1.0 mV on all settings of Input Range and
Coupling.