U.S. Aircore Colt 40 SLT User manual

Instruction Manual
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE
CONSTRUCTION OF YOUR AIRPLANE
Model Aircraft Manufacturing
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL61801
[phone]
FAX [phone]
Warning!
ThisR/Ckitandthe modelyou will buildisnota toy! Itis
capableof serious bodilyharm and property damage. Itis
your responsibility andyours aloneto buildthis kit
correctly, properly installallR/Ccomponents andflying
gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc...)andto test the model
andfly itonly with experienced, competent helpin
accordance with allsafety standards andcommon sense
asset down inthe Academy ofModelAeronautics Safety
Code. Itissuggested that you join the AMA andbecome
properly insured before you attempt to fly this model.Ifyou
are just starting R/C modeling, consult your localhobby
shop or write to the Academy of ModelAeronautics to find
andexperienced instructor inyour area.
Academy of ModelAeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie,IN47302
[phone]
FAX [phone]
ENTIRE CONTENTS © COPYRIGHT 2000 COLT4P02V1.1 forUSAA2070

INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you forpurchasing the U.S.Aircore Colt 40 SLT.This model isdesigned to beone of the most
durableR/C aircrafton the market. The unique building materialuses super tough corrugated plasticthat will not break.
The advantageis that you can crashand almostimmediately flyagain.Severe impacts may dent the material,but itwill
pop back into shape.TheAircoreplanes also use a unique Power Cartridgesystem.This allowsyou toown severaldifferent
planes but only need one engine and radio system. The Power Cartridgeslides into the fuselagethrough the nose rails.It
contains your engine, radio, fueltank and servos(allthe expensive stuff).By using the Power Cartridge,you can easily
change planes inabout 10minutes. We are sure you will enjoy building and flyingthe U.S.AircoreColt 40 SLT.
PRECAUTIONS
1.You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Donot alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result inan unsafe or unflyable model.
2.You musttake time to buildstraight,trueand strong.
3.You must properly installallR/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the air.
4.You musttestthe operationofthe modelbefore the first
and each successive flight toinsure that allequipment is
operating properly.You mustalso make certain thatthe
modelremainsstructurallysound.
NOTE:We, as the kit manufacturer, can provideyouwith a quality kitand great instructions, butultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished modeldependsonhowyouassemble it;therefore, we cannot inanyway guarantee the
performance of your completed model and norepresentations are expressed or impliedas to the performance or safety
of your completed model
REQUIRED ITEMS
Glue: Contact Cement. The USAC
brand(USAR1000)isspecially
formulatedtowork with
Aircore material.
Although notquite as easy to
workwith. Great Planes®Medium
CA (GPMR6009) can beused
forassembly.
Asmall amount of clear silicone
adhesive/sealant.
6or 30-minute epoxy.
(GPMR6045)
Double-sided foam tape
(GPMQ4440)
Self-adhesive hook and loop
(GPMQ4480)
Two 2-3/4" wheels (GPMQ4224)
One 3/4" tail wheel (GPMQ4240)
Bag of #64 Rubber Bands
Engine with matched propeller
(see engine selection)
4-Channel radio system with
4servos
2-1/2" Spinner (GPMQ4522)
Fuelproofpaint.TopFlite®
LustreKote™ isa fastdrying,
fuelproofspray paint which
works great forprotecting the
PowerCartridge.
ENGINE SELECTION
Most.40-.46two-strokeora .48to.53
four-stroke engine will fly the Aircore
Colt. We have heard however,that in
certain highaltitudesituations, thata
standard bushing .40isnotenough. In
thiscase, tryusingaball bearingengine
designedfor higher performance. Ifyou
are planning on installing floats, we
would alsorecommend a higher
performance engine.
REQUIRED TOOLS
Hobbyknife with #11blades
Electric drill with bits
Phillipsscrewdriver
Common Pliers
36" Ruler
2

BuildingSequence
Ifthisisyour first AirCore plane, we recommend you buildthe COLT40over a period of 3-4 eveningsor a coupleof days.
Your future AirCore planes will take less time, but we feelit'simportant to take your time on this first one and do itright.
The firstevening we will prepare a few parts with glue and epoxy, and get to know the plane. The second evening we will
buildthe fuselage and tail feathers. The third evening we willconstruct the wing. The fourth eveningwe willassemblethe
PowerCartridge and check alignment. Next weekend we fly!
EVENING ONE
NOTE - "LEFT" VS. "RIGHT' in this manual. When we refer to the "left" side of the fuselage or the "right" wing inthis manual,
pretend you are the pilot of the plane, sitting inthe cockpit, facing forward (toward the engine). The "right" wing isthe wing
to your right.The "left" side of the fuselage ison your left, etc.
Thisis"getting to know you" night. We'll build and prepare only a few things, read the manual,dosome thinking about what
our final plane will look like and beready to do some serious building tomorrow night.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, READ THIS MANUAL FRONTTO BACK, THEN COMMENCE AS FOLLOWS
BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING PARTS FROM THE TRIM - DO NOT TRY TO "PUNCH" THEM OUT - USE A HOBBY KNIFE AND CAREFULLY TRIM
THEM FROM THEIR PROTECTIVE SURROUNDINGS OR THEY WILL TEAR.
1.1Remove allof the parts from the boxand identify them bycomparing them against the parts listand diagram at
the back of this manual. Carefully remove the AirCore parts from their trim using a hobby knife. Mark them with a ball-point
penon the insideof eachpiece(i.e.-"rightwing,inside").
Notice that AirCore parts are different thicknesses. The
thinnest material supplied istwo (2)millimeters (mil) thick,
the medium thickness isfour (4) mil,and the thickest
AirCore supplied issix (6) milthick. We willrefer to "2-mil"
AirCore and"4-mil", etc., throughout this manual, so
acquaint yourself with the different thicknesses now.
Terms you will needto know when working with AirCore,
include the word "flute" and "score." Observe a piece of
AirCore from the end and notice the "holes."We call these
holes "flutes."Flutes run the length of each piece of
AirCore, parallel to each other, and give the material its
"grain"and strength. Scores are pressed into the AirCore
where we intend for you to bend it.Note that the scores are
on one side only of the pieces - this isthe inside of the
piece that the score ison. When marking exterior AirCore
parts, always mark the inside of the piece.
THICKNESS (INMILLIMETERS)
2-MIL
4-MIL
6-MIL
FLUTEWALL
FIGURE 1 - GETTINGTOKNOW AIRCORE
1.2"Experiment" a littlewith the fuselage andthe wing, fold themupsomeandimaginewhat theywilllooklike
when complete.
IMPORTANT:
WHEN FOLDING THE AIRCORE PARTS, DO SO ON A FLAT SURFACE AND USE A GOOD YARDSTICK, STEEL RULER OR CARPENTER'S SQUARE
AGAINST THE SCORES WHEN MAKING THE FIRST "BREAK" ON A SCORE - ESPECIALLY WHEN BENDING THE SCORES AT THE LEADING EDGE OF
THE WINGS. BREAK-IN ONE SCORE AT A TIME THE FULL WIDTH OF THE LEADING EDGE BEFORE STARTING THE NEXT, ADJACENT SCORE. TO
ASSIST YOU IN WORKING THESE SCORES, TRY WARMING THEM FIRST WITH A HAIR DRYER. USE THE BACK OF A POCKET COMB WITH A
STRAIGHT EDGE, IF NECESSARY, TO CREASE A TOUGH SCORE BEFORE BENDING IT.
Becareful when handling the AirCore material so asnotto "crease" itinanarea notmeantto bebent.
Now let'sbuild some preliminary parts so tomorrow nightandothers will go quicker.
3

1.3Usingepoxy, glue the two 1/8" die-cut plywood
cartridge halves together. Assemble and fuelproof the PC.
Glue and clamp the reinforcing doublers on the top and
bottom of the engine mount area. Besure to line upthe
inside cavity edges of the PCwith the doublers while
clamping. Once the doublers are inplace, glue and clamp
the nose gear block asshown between the engine mount
and the tank opening on the bottom of the PC.Using a
5/32" drill bit,carefully drill a hole as shown inthe
illustration for a nose gear.
Note - the Power Cartridge is designed to be used with or
without a nose gear. Your COLT may be set up with one if
desired, and there are notes in this manual to help you use
nose gear. Whether or not you will use one with your COLT,
this is a good time to mount the nose gear block for use on
future planes.
GLUE & CLAMP
FIGURE2 - ASSEMBLY OF POWER CARTRIDGE
1.4Check the Power Cartridge (PC) andrailsfor a
sliding fit.Locate your 17"long PCrailsandfit them to the
sides of the PC.The PCshould beable to slide on the rails.
You want a good, sliding fit.Ifthe PCistoo snug, use sand
paper on the topandbottomofthe PCedges untilthe fit is
correct.
Aftergluinganddrilling,we liketolightlysand andpaintour
PCwith a coat of black paint before fuel proofing just for
looks.Finally,fuel proof the PCbycoating itwith thinned
epoxy (thin epoxy bymixing itas usual, then adding some
rubbing alcohol until the mixture isthin enough to "paint" on
to the PC). This isan important step. The PCmustbefuel
proofinorder to perform reliablyfor you.
DRILL5/32"HOLE
ENGINE MOUNT
TANK OPENING
FIGURE 3
MOUNTINGTHE NOSE GEAR BLOCK TOTHE PC
NOSE GEAR BLOCK
SIDEVIEW
BUILDER'S NOTE - IF YOU ARE ALREADY ACCOMPLISHED WITH A TRAINER, WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO BUILD THE "TURBO"WING FOR YOUR COLT.
YOU MAY WISH TO OWN BOTH A "TURBO WING" AND A STANDARD WING. THE TURBO WING ISA 58" WING FOR SNAPPIER AEROBATICS AND
FASTER PERFORMANCE. WE HAVE WING KITS FOR THE COLT AVAILABLE. FOR FLOATS OR GENERAL "TOOLING AROUND" USE THE
STANDARD HIGH LIFT WING. FOR HIGH-SPEED AEROBATICS, USE THE TURBO WING. IF YOU ARE BUILDING A "TURBO" VERSION, ALL
COMPONENTS OF THE WING ARE CLIPPED 3" AT THE ROOT, INCLUDING THE WING HALVES, HINGE STRIPS, AILERONS AND SPARS, PRIOR TO
ASSEMBLY. THE SPAR WILL HAVE TO BE BUILT WITH THIS IN MIND. SEE THE SECTION ON BUILDING THE TURBO WING
1.5Buildthe spar. Bothspar halves are identical and
angle upatthe tips. Lightly sand the spars to remove any
rough edges. Mark a centerline vertically on each dihedral
brace to identify where the spars will meet. Use slow CA
glue or 5 minute epoxy and glue the spars to one of the
dihedral braces, aligning the spars inthe center of the
brace. Clamp untildry; Now glue on the other dihedral
brace and clamp. The dihedral brace sets the "dihedral
angle" of the wing, and this angle isimportant inproviding
flight stability to your airplane. Itisimportant when
assembling the spar to observethe dihedral angle
prescribed bythe dihedral brace and to clamp while gluing
to achieve a goodbond between the spars and the braces.
TIPSOF THE SPAR ANGLE UP
USETHICKCAOREPOXYANDCLAMPUNTILDRY
DIHEDRAL BRACE
1/8" PLY
DIHEDRAL BRACE
1/8" PLY
TIPS OF THE
SPARANGLEUP
(DIHEDRAL IS PRESET AT 4 DEGREES)
FIGURE4 - SPAR ASSEMBLY
4

1.6Locatethe 8 oz.tankandassemble it.The PCisdesigned to fit snuglyaround this particulartank with the vent bubble
atthe top of the tank. Proper tank assembly isimportant to insuregood fuel delivery to your engine inflight. Haveyour hobby
dealeroranexperienced modelercheck your tank assemblyandtest itfor good "clunk"operation, prior to flying.
1.7Identifyprepunchedholessuchasthose inthe fuselage bulkheadsand,using a sharp hobbyknife,removeany
remaining material inthe holes. Donottear the material asyou remove the scrap.Cutitfirst, then remove it.
1.8Finally,it'stime for you to playaround with gluing some scrap AirCore material. It'simportant that you do this before
gluing the actual kitpieces so you can get the "feel" of working with AirCore and contact cement. We use disposable foam
brushes with contact cement. They can bestored inzip-lock bagsfor a while between glue jobs without drying up.
HINT - BE SURETO TEST GLUE ONLY ON SCRAP PIECES OF AIRCORE!!! Locate a scrap piece of AirCore andcut off a couple ofpieces
about 3" square. Get out your contact cement and thoroughly coat each piece with cement. Then, waituntilitisnolonger
"tacky"(usually about 3-5 minutes). Note - if you tryto press two pieces together while the glue isstill wet, itwill notbond.
Infact, itwill be gooey" and stay that way.Try it!Once dry, press them together and apply pressure for a good bond. If
you've done this right, you'll find it's a very strong bond. Now experiment with some more scrap untilyou are comfortable
with the process.
We've found that the cement will maintain itsability to bond after beingapplied to AirCore for at least a halfhour. Sowhen
you start building, you haveplenty of time between coating the AirCore andactual assembly. You won't ever have to hurry.
Ifitgoes past the stage where the glue can bond, justbrush on some more cement. Remember that contact cement islike
trim tape. You really haveonly one shot atlining stuff upbefore making a bond - so take your time! As a test, coattwo
pieces of scrap andletthem sitfor 30minutes or so untilyou join them together - see, itworks!
When using contact cement, we've found itimportantto geta good,thorough coaton a piece,notleavingany"holes"in
the coverage. It'salso important notto "glob"iton, butto brush carefully for a nice,evencoat.
When marking AirCore, we've found that ballpoint pens work best, rather than rollingwriters or felt tip pens. However,if
you are marking a spot that will later beexposed, a felt-tip pen or lead pencil works best since you canlater "wash" itoff
with detergent or alcohol. Findboth types of markers andhavethem handyduring construction.
When gluing,usenewspaper or butcherpaperto protectyour work surface. Frequentlychangethe paperbetween gluing
jobs to keep from getting globs of glue on your airplane where you don't want them.
5

EVENINGTWO
Tonightwe buildthe fuselage.
2.1Locate the mainfuselage doubters and mark left and right sides (Theyare marked "L"& "R" with impressions in
the AirCore). Layyour fuselage down on a good, flatwork surface with the top down and trial fit these to the inside of the
fuse. The doublers are cut slightly smaller than the inside ofthe fuse to permit folding uparound them, so there will be
"space" around the doublers. The punched-out holes and the wing saddles should line upon each other, as well as the
nose sections. Using contact cement, glue the doublers to the inside of your fuselage. Use a flatwork surface and
remember you havethe top of the fuselage facing the table as you buildthe fuselage. The flaps that fold together form the
bottom of the fuse. Ifthey are not already marked, mark the flaps "inside"and "outside" to remind you which flap will be
exposed when complete (see illustration).
BUILDER'S HINT - IF YOU GET SOME CONTACT CEMENT ON THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR FUSE OR ANY OTHER "EXPOSED PART", DON'T WORRY. IT
CLEANS UP EASILY WITH SOME LACQUER THINNER - AND THERE IS NO RUSH - YOU CAN CLEAN THE CEMENT OFF LATER. WARNING - DO NOT
USE LACQUER THINNER ON THE INKED PARTS OF YOUR PLANE - IT WILL DAMAGE IT. IF YOU GET CONTACT CEMENT ON AN INKED PART, WAIT
UNTIL IT IS "GUMMY" AND RUB IT OFF WITH YOUR FINGER!
BOTTOM INNER FLAPS
(THESE FOLDINFIRST)
FIGURE 5-FUSELAGE
2.2 Locate the two railsfor the Power
Cartridge along with the left and right side rail
doublers. Firstidentify left and right doublers (one
isstamped "L",and one "R"). Trialtitthe rails into
the slots and place the assemblies on the fuseto
see how they will fit. Once satisfied with the fit,
use contact cement to glue thedoubler/rail
assemblies to the inside of the fuselage. Besure
to first insert the railinto the doublers and glue the
railflanges to the back side of the doublers before
gluing the entire assembly to the fuse. Besure the
doubler isglued well around the rails,punched out
holes, wing saddle and nose.
RAIL DOUBLER
INSTALLATIONOF
LEFTSIDEDOUBLERSSHOWN.
REPEAT PROCEDUREFOR
RIQHTSIDE
MAIN FUSELAGE
DOUBLER
WINGSADDLE
DOUBLER (6-MIL)
RAIL
FIGURES. INSTALLINGRAILS ANDOOUBLERS
6

BULKHEADS CONTROL RODS SHOULD
BECLOSEST TO BOTTOM
FIGURE7 - PLACEMENT OFBULKHEADS AND CONTROL RODS
THREADED END OF
CONTROL RODS AT REAR
OFFUSELAGE
OF FUSELAGE
2.3 Locate the 6-milWing Saddles and trialfit them to the wing saddlearea on bothsidesof the fuselage. Align the
punched out holesand the wing saddleitself. When satisfied, using contact cement, glue the wing saddles to the fuselage
raildoublers.
2.4Locate4-milthickBulkheadsA,B, & C.Carefully removethem from theirtrim usinga hobbyknife.Notethatthe bulkheads
havetwo sets ofprepunchedholes.TheCOLTuses thelowersetof holesthatare shown inthe illustrationsothatthecontrol
rodswillexitnearestthewingintotheradiocompartment.Trimandcleantheprepunchedholesforcontrolrods.
2.5 Mark and fitthe bulkhead locations. Bulkheads A,B and C have"ears" or tabs on them designed to fit into the
slots found inthe fuselage doublers you just installed. Notethatthe control rodholesfor bulkheadsA through C that you
will useshould benearest the bottom of the fuse.
2.6 Locate the two 27" longsteel pushrods (threaded on one end) inthe kit,andrun them through the push rod holes
inbulkheads A-C, with the threaded end of the push rod atthe rear of the airplane. Note that the rods need to exit Bulkhead
Ainto the radio compartment toward the bottom of the fuse. Remember that the bottom of the fuse isfacing you, and the
top of the fuse ison your work table. Space the bulkheads appropriately along the push rods and position them inthe fuse
where their tabs will fitinto the notches. Wrap some tape around the ends of the rods to keep them from falling out of the
holesinthe bulkheads. Test-fold the fuselage around the bulkheads and make sure everything fitswell. Trim the bulkheads
ifnecessary to obtain a square, snug fit for allparts. Finally,coat the edges of the bulkheadsandtheir slots with contact
cement inpreparation for final fold-up.
BUILDER'S HINT - IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO "CONCEAL" YOUR RADIO ANTENNA WIRE INSIDE THE FUSELAGE, PURCHASE A LIGHT WEIGHT, 24"
LONG PIECE OF PLASTIC (NON-METALLIC) TUBING AND INSTALL IT THROUGH THE BULKHEADS BY DRILLING A HOLE IN EACH BULKHEAD OFF-
CENTER, BETWEEN AND ABOUT 1/2" BELOW THE LOCATIONS OF THE CONTROL ROD HOLES. WHEN YOUR PC IS INSTALLED IN THE MODEL, THE
ANTENNA CAN BE PASSED THROUGH THIS "TUBE" AND HIDDEN INSIDE THE MODEL!
2.7 Trialfold the fuselage. Note that the fuselage bottom flaps are arranged so that one side consists of "inside" flaps
and the other side is"outside" flaps. Trialfold the fuse to check that everything isfolding upsquare and that the slots inthe
rear bottom of the fuselage lineupfor finplacement later. You might holdittogether with a little masking tape just to
"eyeball" it.The top of the fuse should layflat on your work surface when folded up.We've found that moving the front and
backbottom flaps around a little and repositioning them will cure any "squaw."Also remember that the inside flaps fold in
firston the fuse. The flaps are sized for this purpose. When gluing,we will fold the rear flaps first,and the nose flaps last.
2.8Assemble the fuselage. YOU MAY NEED ASSISTANCE WITH THIS STEP FIRST FOLD THE REAR FLAPS, AND THEN THE FRONT FLAPS.
Using contact cement, liberallycoatthe fuse flaps where they will make contact. (BE SURE TO REMEMBER "INSIDE"VS "OUTSIDE" FLAPS
AND GLUE THEM ACCORDINGLY). Go ahead andcompletelycoattheappropriate surface of each fuse flap,notjust theedges, asyou
want afirm bondalong the bottomofthe fuse. Also prepare andinsertyour bulkheadswithcontrol rodhousingsinplaceforfinal
fold-up. DO NOT GLUE THE CONTROL RODS TO THE BULKHEADS AT THIS TIME. When ready(don'trushthe cement) andstillona flat work
surface, fold upthefuse first around the bulkheads,thenthe nose,while applyingpressurefor a goodbond.
7

2.9 Insert (trial fit) the 5" long1/4"Wing Dowels inthe prepunched holes.Drillout holeswith a 1/4"bitifnecessary.
Remove the dowels andfuel proof them asyou didthe PC,with thinned epoxy, and reinstall when dry.Glue the back dowel
inplace with epoxy or clear adhesive/sealant. WE DO NOT GLUE THE FRONT DOWEL IN PLACE. THIS WAY IT CAN BE REMOVED TO GIVE
ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE WHEN EXTRACTING THE LOADED PC FROM THE FUSELAGE.
TRIAL FITTHE POWER CARTRIDGE
2.10 Ifyou'd like,you canslidethe PCinto the railsto see how this works. Itshould fit snug, butstillbeableto slide
in.The nose area of the fuselage will require some trimming with a hobby knife atfinal installation to accommodate your
particular engine, needle valve and muffler. The PCwillbe movedfore andaft to balance the model when complete, then
heldinplace with retaining screws for flight.
STABILIZER/ELEVATORS
The Stabilizer and Elevators are a two-piece assembly joined with dowels for stiffeners. Both the stab andthe vertical fin
utilizea "livinghinge"concept developed for simplicity and strength.
2.11Locate the stabilizer/elevators and separate the two halves(left & right)with a hobbyknife.
"LIVING"HINGE
SLITAND TRIM FLUTE
ON BOTTOM OF STAB
TO CREATE A "LIVING
HINGE
4FLUTES
FIGURE 9-CREATING THE HINGEIN THE STABILIZER
7FLUTES
RIGHT STABILIZER
LEFT STABILIZER
HINGE FLUTE
2.12Locate the flute to beused asa hingefor the elevators. The hingeflute selected should allow both elevators to
move upand down independently (they are later joinedwith a joiner wire). Once you locate the hinge flute,carefully "slit"
the flute skin on the bottom (undecorated side) of the stabilizer the length of each elevator using a single edgerazor or
sharp razor knife. DO NOT "SLIT" THE AIRCORE ALL THE WAY THROUGH! THE TOP "SKIN" SURFACE OF THE HINGE FLUTE IS YOUR HINGE!
Once you slit the flute, usea razor or hobby knife to trim away the excess skin on each side of the slit to the inner wall (see
illustration)to finish outthe hingedsurface.
2.13Install5" X 3/16"diameter dowels and 1.25"X 3/16" diameter dowels inthe flutes ofthe elevators asshown in
the illustration. Usingsandpaper, sand "flats" on each side of the dowels so they will notform a protrusion when pushed
intothe flutes. Also sand "flats" on the elevator dowels where the elevator joinerwire hole will bedrilled to keep your drill
bitfrom going off-center when drilling later. These dowels provide stiffening inthe elevator and are drilled for the elevator
joiner wire.
8

2.14 Using the two 12"long 3/16" dowels supplied, join
the two stabilizer halves together bypushing the dowels up
into"flutes" of the stab as shown inthe illustration. The
middleofthe dowels should be atthe center of the stab
assembly when complete. Mark the center of each dowel
before inserting to identify this spot. The best way to dothis
isto insert the dowels upto the center mark inone side first.
Then, on a flat surface, hold the in-place dowelstightlyand
slidethe other side on to the dowels.
NOTE -The fitof the dowels into the flutes of the stab,
elevator and rudder should bevery snug. Once the dowel is
inserted into the flute, itshould bevery difficult to remove.
This will often cause a slight protrusion of the flutes where
the dowels are inserted. Dueto variations intolerance of
both the flutesizes and thedowel diameters, itis
sometimes necessary to sand the dowels some inorder for
them to beinserted intothe flutes atall.
HINGE
FLUTE
12" DOWELS
1.25" DOWELS
5" DOWELS
FIGURE 9-STABILIZER ASSEMBLY
The best way to dothis istousesome 100grit sand paper andinsert the dowel intothe chuck of your power drill,asifit
were a drill bit. Donotuse the chuck key.Tighten the chuck only hand tight so the wood isnotcrushed. Holding the
sandpaper around the dowel, activate the drill and spin the dowel inside the sandpaper, moving the sandpaper upand
down the length of the dowel, reducing its diameter as you sand. As you do this, also taper the ends of the dowel with the
sandpaper. Tosand both ends of the dowel, remove the dowel from the drill and insert the other end into the drill to sand
the other end. Trialfitthe dowel into the fluteoccasionally, remembering that the dowel should be difficult to insert intothe
flute, butnotimpossible.Reduce the size of the dowel the minimum amount to allow you to installitinto the flute.
2.15Once you are satisfied with the dowel size (trial insert itabout 3" into the flute), you maywish to lubricate the
dowel. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly around the dowel or some soap film (wet a barof soap and rub the dowel
againstit). When usingsoap,do notwet the dowel directly with water because this maycause the wood dowel to swell.
2.16 Installthe elevator joiner wire. Locate the 3/32"
U-shaped elevator joiner wire and center iton the
elevators to locate where you will drill holes for it.Mark
inside the hingearea on the elevators where to drill.
Usinga 3/32" drill, lift the elevator to expose the inside of
the hinge area and drill each elevator to receive the joiner
wire. Besure to center the drill and drillparallel to the
elevator surfaces. You will be drilling through the 3/16"
dowels inthe flutes. Install the joiner wire inthe holes and
shoveitupintothehingeslot.
JOINER WIRE RIDES
INSIDE HINGE FLUTE
DRILL 3/32"HOLES IN
ELEVATOR TO RECEIVE
JOINER WIRE
ELEVATOR
JOINER WIRE
FIGURE 10-INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR JOINER WIRE
9

2.17 Installthe elevator control horn. Locate the angled
elevator control horn white plastic stiffeners and glue them to the
top and bottom of the right elevator using contact cement. The
rough sides glue against the elevator surfaces - the smooth sides
are exposed. Using a 1/16" drill, drill holes for the elevator control
horn plate byfirstmarking the holes using the control horn asa
template. Your control horn will bemounted on the BOTTOM OF THE
RIGHT ELEVATOR, and the clevis holes should be inline with the
center of the hingeslot. Using two 1/2"X 2-56 screws provided,
mount the control horn and itsbackplate to the elevator. STAB
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENER
HINGE
AREA IN
DETAIL
HORN BACK PLATE
TOP
VIEW
HORN ON BOTTOM
OF RIGHT ELEVATOR
CENTER CLEVIS HOLES CROSS SECTION
WITH CENTER OF HINGE OF ELEVATOR
ELEVATOR
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENER
FIGURE11 - INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROLHORN
SLITTHE HINGE
ON THE RIGHT
SIDE OF RUDDER
GLUE PLASTIC
STIFFENERS ON
EACHSIDE
INSERT TWO
1.25" DOWELS
MOUNT CONTROL HORN
ONLEFTSIDEOF
RUDDER
LOCATE HINGE
12 FLUTES FROM
LEADING EDGE
HORN
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENERS
BACKPLATE
RIGHTSIDE
FIGURE 12 - VERTICAL FIN AND RUDDER
REAR VIEW
FINAND RUDDER
2.18 The finandrudderare a single piece, just as the stab and elevators are. Select a flute to beused asthe rudder
hinge that isapproximately 12flutes backfrom the leading edge of the vertical fin(see illustration) and proceed to "slit"the
flute on THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FINinthe same fashion as you crafted the hinge forthe stab. Once slit, remove the
excess AirCore material with a sharp razor or hobbyknife upto the inner walls tomake a good hinge and check its function
bybending itback andforth.
2.19 Locatethe two (2) 1.25" X 3/16" dowels for the rudder andinsert them intoflutes asshown intheillustration.
Sand "flats" inthem toprevent them from making protrusions inthe AirCore.
2.20 Install the rudder control horn. Locate the rudder control horn white plastic (square) stiffeners and glue the rough
sides to both sides of the rudder using contact cement. Using a 1/16" drill, drill holes for the rudder control horn plateby
first marking the holes using the control horn asa template. Your control horn willbemounted on the LEFT SIDE OF THE
RUDDER, andthe clevis holes should be inlinewith the center of the hinge slot. Using two 1/2" X 2-56 screws provided
mount the control horn anditsbackplate to the rudder.
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