U.S. Aircore Colt 40 SLT User manual

Instruction Manual
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE
CONSTRUCTION OF YOUR AIRPLANE
Model Aircraft Manufacturing
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL61801
[phone]
FAX [phone]
Warning!
ThisR/Ckitandthe modelyou will buildisnota toy! Itis
capableof serious bodilyharm and property damage. Itis
your responsibility andyours aloneto buildthis kit
correctly, properly installallR/Ccomponents andflying
gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc...)andto test the model
andfly itonly with experienced, competent helpin
accordance with allsafety standards andcommon sense
asset down inthe Academy ofModelAeronautics Safety
Code. Itissuggested that you join the AMA andbecome
properly insured before you attempt to fly this model.Ifyou
are just starting R/C modeling, consult your localhobby
shop or write to the Academy of ModelAeronautics to find
andexperienced instructor inyour area.
Academy of ModelAeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie,IN47302
[phone]
FAX [phone]
ENTIRE CONTENTS © COPYRIGHT 2000 COLT4P02V1.1 forUSAA2070

INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you forpurchasing the U.S.Aircore Colt 40 SLT.This model isdesigned to beone of the most
durableR/C aircrafton the market. The unique building materialuses super tough corrugated plasticthat will not break.
The advantageis that you can crashand almostimmediately flyagain.Severe impacts may dent the material,but itwill
pop back into shape.TheAircoreplanes also use a unique Power Cartridgesystem.This allowsyou toown severaldifferent
planes but only need one engine and radio system. The Power Cartridgeslides into the fuselagethrough the nose rails.It
contains your engine, radio, fueltank and servos(allthe expensive stuff).By using the Power Cartridge,you can easily
change planes inabout 10minutes. We are sure you will enjoy building and flyingthe U.S.AircoreColt 40 SLT.
PRECAUTIONS
1.You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Donot alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result inan unsafe or unflyable model.
2.You musttake time to buildstraight,trueand strong.
3.You must properly installallR/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the air.
4.You musttestthe operationofthe modelbefore the first
and each successive flight toinsure that allequipment is
operating properly.You mustalso make certain thatthe
modelremainsstructurallysound.
NOTE:We, as the kit manufacturer, can provideyouwith a quality kitand great instructions, butultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished modeldependsonhowyouassemble it;therefore, we cannot inanyway guarantee the
performance of your completed model and norepresentations are expressed or impliedas to the performance or safety
of your completed model
REQUIRED ITEMS
Glue: Contact Cement. The USAC
brand(USAR1000)isspecially
formulatedtowork with
Aircore material.
Although notquite as easy to
workwith. Great Planes®Medium
CA (GPMR6009) can beused
forassembly.
Asmall amount of clear silicone
adhesive/sealant.
6or 30-minute epoxy.
(GPMR6045)
Double-sided foam tape
(GPMQ4440)
Self-adhesive hook and loop
(GPMQ4480)
Two 2-3/4" wheels (GPMQ4224)
One 3/4" tail wheel (GPMQ4240)
Bag of #64 Rubber Bands
Engine with matched propeller
(see engine selection)
4-Channel radio system with
4servos
2-1/2" Spinner (GPMQ4522)
Fuelproofpaint.TopFlite®
LustreKote™ isa fastdrying,
fuelproofspray paint which
works great forprotecting the
PowerCartridge.
ENGINE SELECTION
Most.40-.46two-strokeora .48to.53
four-stroke engine will fly the Aircore
Colt. We have heard however,that in
certain highaltitudesituations, thata
standard bushing .40isnotenough. In
thiscase, tryusingaball bearingengine
designedfor higher performance. Ifyou
are planning on installing floats, we
would alsorecommend a higher
performance engine.
REQUIRED TOOLS
Hobbyknife with #11blades
Electric drill with bits
Phillipsscrewdriver
Common Pliers
36" Ruler
2

BuildingSequence
Ifthisisyour first AirCore plane, we recommend you buildthe COLT40over a period of 3-4 eveningsor a coupleof days.
Your future AirCore planes will take less time, but we feelit'simportant to take your time on this first one and do itright.
The firstevening we will prepare a few parts with glue and epoxy, and get to know the plane. The second evening we will
buildthe fuselage and tail feathers. The third evening we willconstruct the wing. The fourth eveningwe willassemblethe
PowerCartridge and check alignment. Next weekend we fly!
EVENING ONE
NOTE - "LEFT" VS. "RIGHT' in this manual. When we refer to the "left" side of the fuselage or the "right" wing inthis manual,
pretend you are the pilot of the plane, sitting inthe cockpit, facing forward (toward the engine). The "right" wing isthe wing
to your right.The "left" side of the fuselage ison your left, etc.
Thisis"getting to know you" night. We'll build and prepare only a few things, read the manual,dosome thinking about what
our final plane will look like and beready to do some serious building tomorrow night.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, READ THIS MANUAL FRONTTO BACK, THEN COMMENCE AS FOLLOWS
BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING PARTS FROM THE TRIM - DO NOT TRY TO "PUNCH" THEM OUT - USE A HOBBY KNIFE AND CAREFULLY TRIM
THEM FROM THEIR PROTECTIVE SURROUNDINGS OR THEY WILL TEAR.
1.1Remove allof the parts from the boxand identify them bycomparing them against the parts listand diagram at
the back of this manual. Carefully remove the AirCore parts from their trim using a hobby knife. Mark them with a ball-point
penon the insideof eachpiece(i.e.-"rightwing,inside").
Notice that AirCore parts are different thicknesses. The
thinnest material supplied istwo (2)millimeters (mil) thick,
the medium thickness isfour (4) mil,and the thickest
AirCore supplied issix (6) milthick. We willrefer to "2-mil"
AirCore and"4-mil", etc., throughout this manual, so
acquaint yourself with the different thicknesses now.
Terms you will needto know when working with AirCore,
include the word "flute" and "score." Observe a piece of
AirCore from the end and notice the "holes."We call these
holes "flutes."Flutes run the length of each piece of
AirCore, parallel to each other, and give the material its
"grain"and strength. Scores are pressed into the AirCore
where we intend for you to bend it.Note that the scores are
on one side only of the pieces - this isthe inside of the
piece that the score ison. When marking exterior AirCore
parts, always mark the inside of the piece.
THICKNESS (INMILLIMETERS)
2-MIL
4-MIL
6-MIL
FLUTEWALL
FIGURE 1 - GETTINGTOKNOW AIRCORE
1.2"Experiment" a littlewith the fuselage andthe wing, fold themupsomeandimaginewhat theywilllooklike
when complete.
IMPORTANT:
WHEN FOLDING THE AIRCORE PARTS, DO SO ON A FLAT SURFACE AND USE A GOOD YARDSTICK, STEEL RULER OR CARPENTER'S SQUARE
AGAINST THE SCORES WHEN MAKING THE FIRST "BREAK" ON A SCORE - ESPECIALLY WHEN BENDING THE SCORES AT THE LEADING EDGE OF
THE WINGS. BREAK-IN ONE SCORE AT A TIME THE FULL WIDTH OF THE LEADING EDGE BEFORE STARTING THE NEXT, ADJACENT SCORE. TO
ASSIST YOU IN WORKING THESE SCORES, TRY WARMING THEM FIRST WITH A HAIR DRYER. USE THE BACK OF A POCKET COMB WITH A
STRAIGHT EDGE, IF NECESSARY, TO CREASE A TOUGH SCORE BEFORE BENDING IT.
Becareful when handling the AirCore material so asnotto "crease" itinanarea notmeantto bebent.
Now let'sbuild some preliminary parts so tomorrow nightandothers will go quicker.
3

1.3Usingepoxy, glue the two 1/8" die-cut plywood
cartridge halves together. Assemble and fuelproof the PC.
Glue and clamp the reinforcing doublers on the top and
bottom of the engine mount area. Besure to line upthe
inside cavity edges of the PCwith the doublers while
clamping. Once the doublers are inplace, glue and clamp
the nose gear block asshown between the engine mount
and the tank opening on the bottom of the PC.Using a
5/32" drill bit,carefully drill a hole as shown inthe
illustration for a nose gear.
Note - the Power Cartridge is designed to be used with or
without a nose gear. Your COLT may be set up with one if
desired, and there are notes in this manual to help you use
nose gear. Whether or not you will use one with your COLT,
this is a good time to mount the nose gear block for use on
future planes.
GLUE & CLAMP
FIGURE2 - ASSEMBLY OF POWER CARTRIDGE
1.4Check the Power Cartridge (PC) andrailsfor a
sliding fit.Locate your 17"long PCrailsandfit them to the
sides of the PC.The PCshould beable to slide on the rails.
You want a good, sliding fit.Ifthe PCistoo snug, use sand
paper on the topandbottomofthe PCedges untilthe fit is
correct.
Aftergluinganddrilling,we liketolightlysand andpaintour
PCwith a coat of black paint before fuel proofing just for
looks.Finally,fuel proof the PCbycoating itwith thinned
epoxy (thin epoxy bymixing itas usual, then adding some
rubbing alcohol until the mixture isthin enough to "paint" on
to the PC). This isan important step. The PCmustbefuel
proofinorder to perform reliablyfor you.
DRILL5/32"HOLE
ENGINE MOUNT
TANK OPENING
FIGURE 3
MOUNTINGTHE NOSE GEAR BLOCK TOTHE PC
NOSE GEAR BLOCK
SIDEVIEW
BUILDER'S NOTE - IF YOU ARE ALREADY ACCOMPLISHED WITH A TRAINER, WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO BUILD THE "TURBO"WING FOR YOUR COLT.
YOU MAY WISH TO OWN BOTH A "TURBO WING" AND A STANDARD WING. THE TURBO WING ISA 58" WING FOR SNAPPIER AEROBATICS AND
FASTER PERFORMANCE. WE HAVE WING KITS FOR THE COLT AVAILABLE. FOR FLOATS OR GENERAL "TOOLING AROUND" USE THE
STANDARD HIGH LIFT WING. FOR HIGH-SPEED AEROBATICS, USE THE TURBO WING. IF YOU ARE BUILDING A "TURBO" VERSION, ALL
COMPONENTS OF THE WING ARE CLIPPED 3" AT THE ROOT, INCLUDING THE WING HALVES, HINGE STRIPS, AILERONS AND SPARS, PRIOR TO
ASSEMBLY. THE SPAR WILL HAVE TO BE BUILT WITH THIS IN MIND. SEE THE SECTION ON BUILDING THE TURBO WING
1.5Buildthe spar. Bothspar halves are identical and
angle upatthe tips. Lightly sand the spars to remove any
rough edges. Mark a centerline vertically on each dihedral
brace to identify where the spars will meet. Use slow CA
glue or 5 minute epoxy and glue the spars to one of the
dihedral braces, aligning the spars inthe center of the
brace. Clamp untildry; Now glue on the other dihedral
brace and clamp. The dihedral brace sets the "dihedral
angle" of the wing, and this angle isimportant inproviding
flight stability to your airplane. Itisimportant when
assembling the spar to observethe dihedral angle
prescribed bythe dihedral brace and to clamp while gluing
to achieve a goodbond between the spars and the braces.
TIPSOF THE SPAR ANGLE UP
USETHICKCAOREPOXYANDCLAMPUNTILDRY
DIHEDRAL BRACE
1/8" PLY
DIHEDRAL BRACE
1/8" PLY
TIPS OF THE
SPARANGLEUP
(DIHEDRAL IS PRESET AT 4 DEGREES)
FIGURE4 - SPAR ASSEMBLY
4

1.6Locatethe 8 oz.tankandassemble it.The PCisdesigned to fit snuglyaround this particulartank with the vent bubble
atthe top of the tank. Proper tank assembly isimportant to insuregood fuel delivery to your engine inflight. Haveyour hobby
dealeroranexperienced modelercheck your tank assemblyandtest itfor good "clunk"operation, prior to flying.
1.7Identifyprepunchedholessuchasthose inthe fuselage bulkheadsand,using a sharp hobbyknife,removeany
remaining material inthe holes. Donottear the material asyou remove the scrap.Cutitfirst, then remove it.
1.8Finally,it'stime for you to playaround with gluing some scrap AirCore material. It'simportant that you do this before
gluing the actual kitpieces so you can get the "feel" of working with AirCore and contact cement. We use disposable foam
brushes with contact cement. They can bestored inzip-lock bagsfor a while between glue jobs without drying up.
HINT - BE SURETO TEST GLUE ONLY ON SCRAP PIECES OF AIRCORE!!! Locate a scrap piece of AirCore andcut off a couple ofpieces
about 3" square. Get out your contact cement and thoroughly coat each piece with cement. Then, waituntilitisnolonger
"tacky"(usually about 3-5 minutes). Note - if you tryto press two pieces together while the glue isstill wet, itwill notbond.
Infact, itwill be gooey" and stay that way.Try it!Once dry, press them together and apply pressure for a good bond. If
you've done this right, you'll find it's a very strong bond. Now experiment with some more scrap untilyou are comfortable
with the process.
We've found that the cement will maintain itsability to bond after beingapplied to AirCore for at least a halfhour. Sowhen
you start building, you haveplenty of time between coating the AirCore andactual assembly. You won't ever have to hurry.
Ifitgoes past the stage where the glue can bond, justbrush on some more cement. Remember that contact cement islike
trim tape. You really haveonly one shot atlining stuff upbefore making a bond - so take your time! As a test, coattwo
pieces of scrap andletthem sitfor 30minutes or so untilyou join them together - see, itworks!
When using contact cement, we've found itimportantto geta good,thorough coaton a piece,notleavingany"holes"in
the coverage. It'salso important notto "glob"iton, butto brush carefully for a nice,evencoat.
When marking AirCore, we've found that ballpoint pens work best, rather than rollingwriters or felt tip pens. However,if
you are marking a spot that will later beexposed, a felt-tip pen or lead pencil works best since you canlater "wash" itoff
with detergent or alcohol. Findboth types of markers andhavethem handyduring construction.
When gluing,usenewspaper or butcherpaperto protectyour work surface. Frequentlychangethe paperbetween gluing
jobs to keep from getting globs of glue on your airplane where you don't want them.
5

EVENINGTWO
Tonightwe buildthe fuselage.
2.1Locate the mainfuselage doubters and mark left and right sides (Theyare marked "L"& "R" with impressions in
the AirCore). Layyour fuselage down on a good, flatwork surface with the top down and trial fit these to the inside of the
fuse. The doublers are cut slightly smaller than the inside ofthe fuse to permit folding uparound them, so there will be
"space" around the doublers. The punched-out holes and the wing saddles should line upon each other, as well as the
nose sections. Using contact cement, glue the doublers to the inside of your fuselage. Use a flatwork surface and
remember you havethe top of the fuselage facing the table as you buildthe fuselage. The flaps that fold together form the
bottom of the fuse. Ifthey are not already marked, mark the flaps "inside"and "outside" to remind you which flap will be
exposed when complete (see illustration).
BUILDER'S HINT - IF YOU GET SOME CONTACT CEMENT ON THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR FUSE OR ANY OTHER "EXPOSED PART", DON'T WORRY. IT
CLEANS UP EASILY WITH SOME LACQUER THINNER - AND THERE IS NO RUSH - YOU CAN CLEAN THE CEMENT OFF LATER. WARNING - DO NOT
USE LACQUER THINNER ON THE INKED PARTS OF YOUR PLANE - IT WILL DAMAGE IT. IF YOU GET CONTACT CEMENT ON AN INKED PART, WAIT
UNTIL IT IS "GUMMY" AND RUB IT OFF WITH YOUR FINGER!
BOTTOM INNER FLAPS
(THESE FOLDINFIRST)
FIGURE 5-FUSELAGE
2.2 Locate the two railsfor the Power
Cartridge along with the left and right side rail
doublers. Firstidentify left and right doublers (one
isstamped "L",and one "R"). Trialtitthe rails into
the slots and place the assemblies on the fuseto
see how they will fit. Once satisfied with the fit,
use contact cement to glue thedoubler/rail
assemblies to the inside of the fuselage. Besure
to first insert the railinto the doublers and glue the
railflanges to the back side of the doublers before
gluing the entire assembly to the fuse. Besure the
doubler isglued well around the rails,punched out
holes, wing saddle and nose.
RAIL DOUBLER
INSTALLATIONOF
LEFTSIDEDOUBLERSSHOWN.
REPEAT PROCEDUREFOR
RIQHTSIDE
MAIN FUSELAGE
DOUBLER
WINGSADDLE
DOUBLER (6-MIL)
RAIL
FIGURES. INSTALLINGRAILS ANDOOUBLERS
6

BULKHEADS CONTROL RODS SHOULD
BECLOSEST TO BOTTOM
FIGURE7 - PLACEMENT OFBULKHEADS AND CONTROL RODS
THREADED END OF
CONTROL RODS AT REAR
OFFUSELAGE
OF FUSELAGE
2.3 Locate the 6-milWing Saddles and trialfit them to the wing saddlearea on bothsidesof the fuselage. Align the
punched out holesand the wing saddleitself. When satisfied, using contact cement, glue the wing saddles to the fuselage
raildoublers.
2.4Locate4-milthickBulkheadsA,B, & C.Carefully removethem from theirtrim usinga hobbyknife.Notethatthe bulkheads
havetwo sets ofprepunchedholes.TheCOLTuses thelowersetof holesthatare shown inthe illustrationsothatthecontrol
rodswillexitnearestthewingintotheradiocompartment.Trimandcleantheprepunchedholesforcontrolrods.
2.5 Mark and fitthe bulkhead locations. Bulkheads A,B and C have"ears" or tabs on them designed to fit into the
slots found inthe fuselage doublers you just installed. Notethatthe control rodholesfor bulkheadsA through C that you
will useshould benearest the bottom of the fuse.
2.6 Locate the two 27" longsteel pushrods (threaded on one end) inthe kit,andrun them through the push rod holes
inbulkheads A-C, with the threaded end of the push rod atthe rear of the airplane. Note that the rods need to exit Bulkhead
Ainto the radio compartment toward the bottom of the fuse. Remember that the bottom of the fuse isfacing you, and the
top of the fuse ison your work table. Space the bulkheads appropriately along the push rods and position them inthe fuse
where their tabs will fitinto the notches. Wrap some tape around the ends of the rods to keep them from falling out of the
holesinthe bulkheads. Test-fold the fuselage around the bulkheads and make sure everything fitswell. Trim the bulkheads
ifnecessary to obtain a square, snug fit for allparts. Finally,coat the edges of the bulkheadsandtheir slots with contact
cement inpreparation for final fold-up.
BUILDER'S HINT - IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO "CONCEAL" YOUR RADIO ANTENNA WIRE INSIDE THE FUSELAGE, PURCHASE A LIGHT WEIGHT, 24"
LONG PIECE OF PLASTIC (NON-METALLIC) TUBING AND INSTALL IT THROUGH THE BULKHEADS BY DRILLING A HOLE IN EACH BULKHEAD OFF-
CENTER, BETWEEN AND ABOUT 1/2" BELOW THE LOCATIONS OF THE CONTROL ROD HOLES. WHEN YOUR PC IS INSTALLED IN THE MODEL, THE
ANTENNA CAN BE PASSED THROUGH THIS "TUBE" AND HIDDEN INSIDE THE MODEL!
2.7 Trialfold the fuselage. Note that the fuselage bottom flaps are arranged so that one side consists of "inside" flaps
and the other side is"outside" flaps. Trialfold the fuse to check that everything isfolding upsquare and that the slots inthe
rear bottom of the fuselage lineupfor finplacement later. You might holdittogether with a little masking tape just to
"eyeball" it.The top of the fuse should layflat on your work surface when folded up.We've found that moving the front and
backbottom flaps around a little and repositioning them will cure any "squaw."Also remember that the inside flaps fold in
firston the fuse. The flaps are sized for this purpose. When gluing,we will fold the rear flaps first,and the nose flaps last.
2.8Assemble the fuselage. YOU MAY NEED ASSISTANCE WITH THIS STEP FIRST FOLD THE REAR FLAPS, AND THEN THE FRONT FLAPS.
Using contact cement, liberallycoatthe fuse flaps where they will make contact. (BE SURE TO REMEMBER "INSIDE"VS "OUTSIDE" FLAPS
AND GLUE THEM ACCORDINGLY). Go ahead andcompletelycoattheappropriate surface of each fuse flap,notjust theedges, asyou
want afirm bondalong the bottomofthe fuse. Also prepare andinsertyour bulkheadswithcontrol rodhousingsinplaceforfinal
fold-up. DO NOT GLUE THE CONTROL RODS TO THE BULKHEADS AT THIS TIME. When ready(don'trushthe cement) andstillona flat work
surface, fold upthefuse first around the bulkheads,thenthe nose,while applyingpressurefor a goodbond.
7

2.9 Insert (trial fit) the 5" long1/4"Wing Dowels inthe prepunched holes.Drillout holeswith a 1/4"bitifnecessary.
Remove the dowels andfuel proof them asyou didthe PC,with thinned epoxy, and reinstall when dry.Glue the back dowel
inplace with epoxy or clear adhesive/sealant. WE DO NOT GLUE THE FRONT DOWEL IN PLACE. THIS WAY IT CAN BE REMOVED TO GIVE
ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE WHEN EXTRACTING THE LOADED PC FROM THE FUSELAGE.
TRIAL FITTHE POWER CARTRIDGE
2.10 Ifyou'd like,you canslidethe PCinto the railsto see how this works. Itshould fit snug, butstillbeableto slide
in.The nose area of the fuselage will require some trimming with a hobby knife atfinal installation to accommodate your
particular engine, needle valve and muffler. The PCwillbe movedfore andaft to balance the model when complete, then
heldinplace with retaining screws for flight.
STABILIZER/ELEVATORS
The Stabilizer and Elevators are a two-piece assembly joined with dowels for stiffeners. Both the stab andthe vertical fin
utilizea "livinghinge"concept developed for simplicity and strength.
2.11Locate the stabilizer/elevators and separate the two halves(left & right)with a hobbyknife.
"LIVING"HINGE
SLITAND TRIM FLUTE
ON BOTTOM OF STAB
TO CREATE A "LIVING
HINGE
4FLUTES
FIGURE 9-CREATING THE HINGEIN THE STABILIZER
7FLUTES
RIGHT STABILIZER
LEFT STABILIZER
HINGE FLUTE
2.12Locate the flute to beused asa hingefor the elevators. The hingeflute selected should allow both elevators to
move upand down independently (they are later joinedwith a joiner wire). Once you locate the hinge flute,carefully "slit"
the flute skin on the bottom (undecorated side) of the stabilizer the length of each elevator using a single edgerazor or
sharp razor knife. DO NOT "SLIT" THE AIRCORE ALL THE WAY THROUGH! THE TOP "SKIN" SURFACE OF THE HINGE FLUTE IS YOUR HINGE!
Once you slit the flute, usea razor or hobby knife to trim away the excess skin on each side of the slit to the inner wall (see
illustration)to finish outthe hingedsurface.
2.13Install5" X 3/16"diameter dowels and 1.25"X 3/16" diameter dowels inthe flutes ofthe elevators asshown in
the illustration. Usingsandpaper, sand "flats" on each side of the dowels so they will notform a protrusion when pushed
intothe flutes. Also sand "flats" on the elevator dowels where the elevator joinerwire hole will bedrilled to keep your drill
bitfrom going off-center when drilling later. These dowels provide stiffening inthe elevator and are drilled for the elevator
joiner wire.
8

2.14 Using the two 12"long 3/16" dowels supplied, join
the two stabilizer halves together bypushing the dowels up
into"flutes" of the stab as shown inthe illustration. The
middleofthe dowels should be atthe center of the stab
assembly when complete. Mark the center of each dowel
before inserting to identify this spot. The best way to dothis
isto insert the dowels upto the center mark inone side first.
Then, on a flat surface, hold the in-place dowelstightlyand
slidethe other side on to the dowels.
NOTE -The fitof the dowels into the flutes of the stab,
elevator and rudder should bevery snug. Once the dowel is
inserted into the flute, itshould bevery difficult to remove.
This will often cause a slight protrusion of the flutes where
the dowels are inserted. Dueto variations intolerance of
both the flutesizes and thedowel diameters, itis
sometimes necessary to sand the dowels some inorder for
them to beinserted intothe flutes atall.
HINGE
FLUTE
12" DOWELS
1.25" DOWELS
5" DOWELS
FIGURE 9-STABILIZER ASSEMBLY
The best way to dothis istousesome 100grit sand paper andinsert the dowel intothe chuck of your power drill,asifit
were a drill bit. Donotuse the chuck key.Tighten the chuck only hand tight so the wood isnotcrushed. Holding the
sandpaper around the dowel, activate the drill and spin the dowel inside the sandpaper, moving the sandpaper upand
down the length of the dowel, reducing its diameter as you sand. As you do this, also taper the ends of the dowel with the
sandpaper. Tosand both ends of the dowel, remove the dowel from the drill and insert the other end into the drill to sand
the other end. Trialfitthe dowel into the fluteoccasionally, remembering that the dowel should be difficult to insert intothe
flute, butnotimpossible.Reduce the size of the dowel the minimum amount to allow you to installitinto the flute.
2.15Once you are satisfied with the dowel size (trial insert itabout 3" into the flute), you maywish to lubricate the
dowel. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly around the dowel or some soap film (wet a barof soap and rub the dowel
againstit). When usingsoap,do notwet the dowel directly with water because this maycause the wood dowel to swell.
2.16 Installthe elevator joiner wire. Locate the 3/32"
U-shaped elevator joiner wire and center iton the
elevators to locate where you will drill holes for it.Mark
inside the hingearea on the elevators where to drill.
Usinga 3/32" drill, lift the elevator to expose the inside of
the hinge area and drill each elevator to receive the joiner
wire. Besure to center the drill and drillparallel to the
elevator surfaces. You will be drilling through the 3/16"
dowels inthe flutes. Install the joiner wire inthe holes and
shoveitupintothehingeslot.
JOINER WIRE RIDES
INSIDE HINGE FLUTE
DRILL 3/32"HOLES IN
ELEVATOR TO RECEIVE
JOINER WIRE
ELEVATOR
JOINER WIRE
FIGURE 10-INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR JOINER WIRE
9

2.17 Installthe elevator control horn. Locate the angled
elevator control horn white plastic stiffeners and glue them to the
top and bottom of the right elevator using contact cement. The
rough sides glue against the elevator surfaces - the smooth sides
are exposed. Using a 1/16" drill, drill holes for the elevator control
horn plate byfirstmarking the holes using the control horn asa
template. Your control horn will bemounted on the BOTTOM OF THE
RIGHT ELEVATOR, and the clevis holes should be inline with the
center of the hingeslot. Using two 1/2"X 2-56 screws provided,
mount the control horn and itsbackplate to the elevator. STAB
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENER
HINGE
AREA IN
DETAIL
HORN BACK PLATE
TOP
VIEW
HORN ON BOTTOM
OF RIGHT ELEVATOR
CENTER CLEVIS HOLES CROSS SECTION
WITH CENTER OF HINGE OF ELEVATOR
ELEVATOR
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENER
FIGURE11 - INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROLHORN
SLITTHE HINGE
ON THE RIGHT
SIDE OF RUDDER
GLUE PLASTIC
STIFFENERS ON
EACHSIDE
INSERT TWO
1.25" DOWELS
MOUNT CONTROL HORN
ONLEFTSIDEOF
RUDDER
LOCATE HINGE
12 FLUTES FROM
LEADING EDGE
HORN
WHITE PLASTIC
STIFFENERS
BACKPLATE
RIGHTSIDE
FIGURE 12 - VERTICAL FIN AND RUDDER
REAR VIEW
FINAND RUDDER
2.18 The finandrudderare a single piece, just as the stab and elevators are. Select a flute to beused asthe rudder
hinge that isapproximately 12flutes backfrom the leading edge of the vertical fin(see illustration) and proceed to "slit"the
flute on THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FINinthe same fashion as you crafted the hinge forthe stab. Once slit, remove the
excess AirCore material with a sharp razor or hobbyknife upto the inner walls tomake a good hinge and check its function
bybending itback andforth.
2.19 Locatethe two (2) 1.25" X 3/16" dowels for the rudder andinsert them intoflutes asshown intheillustration.
Sand "flats" inthem toprevent them from making protrusions inthe AirCore.
2.20 Install the rudder control horn. Locate the rudder control horn white plastic (square) stiffeners and glue the rough
sides to both sides of the rudder using contact cement. Using a 1/16" drill, drill holes for the rudder control horn plateby
first marking the holes using the control horn asa template. Your control horn willbemounted on the LEFT SIDE OF THE
RUDDER, andthe clevis holes should be inlinewith the center of the hinge slot. Using two 1/2" X 2-56 screws provided
mount the control horn anditsbackplate to the rudder.
10

FINALASSEMBLY OF THE FUSELAGE
STAB TIPS SHOULD BE
EQUIDISTANT FROM NOSE
OF FUSELAGE
LINE UP
SLOTS
REAROFSTABSHOULDBE
EVEN WITH THE REAR OF
THE FUSELAGE
FIGURE 13- MOUNTING THE STABILIZER
2.21 Prepare stab. Position the stab on the fuse top over the slot for the fin. LINE UP THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE STAB WITH
THE REAR OF THE FUSELAGE. REMEMBER THAT THE HORN IS ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT ELEVATOR. Mark a line on the fuse where the
leading edge of the stab will fit on the fuse. BE SURE TO ALIGN THE STAB SQUARELY WITH THE FUSELAGE BEFORE GLUING. Laythe
stab bottom-up on a flat work surface and position the fuselage over itso the trailing edge of the stab isflush with the rear
of the fuse. Using a ball-point pen,mark the bottom of the stab atthe edges ofthe fuselage.
2.22 Glue the stabto the fuselage. Usingcontact cement, coat both the stab bottom and the fuse top with a generous
amount of cement andallow them to dry before makingthe bond.
2.23Installthe fin. Once the stabisinstalled,trial-fit the fin through the slots inthe stab andpushitcarefully through the
slotsinthe bottom of the fuselage. You will haveto move the elevator down andthe rudder aside to makeclearance for the
control horns. Donottrim the bottom ofthe fin tabs to the fuselage yet. Using a clear adhesive/sealant, apply glue to the fin
joint with the top of the stab,the stab joint atthe fuselage andthe fin tabs where they exit from the bottom of the fuselage.
Oncethe glueiscompletely dry (usually overnight) you cantrim off the excess fin tab atthe bottomofthe fuselage.
2.24Tailwheel Installation.Locate the prebent 1/16"tail
wheel wire, the 1/16" wheel collar and screw insert and the
1/8"plywood tail wheel bracket. The tail wheel bracket glues
to the inside bottom of the fuselage, with the notch around
the fintab.The tail wheel wire passes through the tail wheel
bracketandupintothe hingeflute of the fin,protruding
rearward into the rudder itself, just as the elevator joiner wire
does. The wheel collar attaches to the tail wheel wire below
the wood bracket to keep pressure off of the rudder hinge.
Firstslipthe wheel collar on the tail-wheel wire, then the
wood bracket. Measure this assembly against the rudder,
and bend the wire 90 degrees so that about 1"will protrude
into the rudder, inside the hinge flute. Drill the rudder to
receive the tail wheel wire, just as you didthe elevator joiner
wire. Locate the 3" long3/16"wood dowel and shove itinto
the firstflute forward of the rudder hinge. This dowel glues
intothe bracket, forward of the tail wheel wire. Using contact
cement or CA glue,glue the tail wheel bracket to the inside
bottom of the fuselage, being careful to line upthe position of
the bracket to allow freemovement of the rudder and tail
wheel when the rudder isactivated.
BENDWIRE90 DEGREES
STAB,HORNS.ETC.OMITTED
FOR CLARITY
1/8" PLYWOOD
TAILWHEEL
BRACKET
REAR VIEW
FIGURE 15-TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION
1/16 WHEEL
COLLAR
FIN
1/16"DOWEL
INFLUTE
1/16" WHEEL
COLLAR
RIGHTSIDE VIEW
11

INSTALL TRIM STRIPS ON
LEADING EDGES OF BOTH
FIN AND STAB TO COVER
FLUTES EXPOSED TO AIR FLOW
USE CLEAR ADHESIVE/SEALANT
TO SEAL JOINTS BETWEEN THE
FINAND STAB, FIN AND FUSE AND
STAB AND FUSE
BOTTOM OF FIN SHOULD BE
FLUSH WITH TOP OF STAB
FIGURE 14 - MOUNTING THE VERTICAL FIN
2.25 Locate the plastic edgetrim for the tail section and cut itto fit the leading edges of the stab and fin. We only install
iton the leadingedges, leaving the sideflutes exposed.The exposed flutes do nothavean adverse affect on the
aerodynamics of the aircraft.
2.26 Install the turtledeck and canopy on the fuselage. Locate the turtledeck and "work" the scores to flex them so
they will cooperate with you during installation. You want the scores to bend evenly so asto make a nice,uniform curve
once installed. The bottom tabs of the turtledeck fit against the top of the fuselage. Heavily crease the tab scores so the
bottom of the turtledeck will sit flaton the top of the fuselage. Ifnecessary, "slit"the insides of the tab scores to provide a
flexible bend.Locate the turtledeck bulkheadandtrialfit itto the turtle deckasyou practice shapingitbefore gluing.
2.27 Once satisfiedwith the way your
turtledeck will fit,trial fit itto the fuselage and mark
itsoutside edges on the fuselage with a felt tip pen
(one that will wash off the AirCore later). Remove
the turtledeck and apply contact cement to the
bottom tabs of the turtledeck and itslocation on the
fuse. Glue the turtledeck bulkhead to the inside of
the turtledeck and the tops of the turtledeck tabs.
(We use double stick tape to glue the bulkhead into
the turtledeck). When ready, glue the turtledeck to
the fuse, one sideata time,andapplypressure for
agood bond.
BUILDER'S HINT- This isthe time to decideifyou
want to havean instrument panel or pilot.We use
spare AirCore to make a seat and instrument panel.
FIGURE 16 • TURTLEDECK DETAIL
FUSELAGE
TURTLEDECK
OVERLAP CANOPY 1/4"
TURTLEDECK
BULKHEAD
2.28 Installthe canopy.Cut the canopy so that itoverlaps your turtledeck about1/4"andglue itto the fuse and
turtledeck usinga thin layerof"driesclear"epoxy cement or clear adhesive/sealant.
Thiscompletes the construction of thefuselage. We will leaveinstallation ofcontrol rods for the final evening of assembly.
12

EVENING THREE
Tonight we will assemblethe wing. You shouldalreadyhavebuiltthesparoneveningone.Ifnot,gobackto sectionone
andbuildthe spar.
ASSEMBLY OF THE WING IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF BUILDING THE PLANE AND SHOULD BE DONE ON A GOOD, FLAT WORKING
SURFACE. YOU MAY NEED ASSISTANCE DURING THIS STEP TO HELP INSURE YOU GET A STRAIGHT, WARP-FREE WING.
NOTE - IF BUILDING A "TURBO" WING, THIS IS THE TIME TO TRIM ALL AIRCORE PIECES AT THE ROOT END TO ACCOMMODATE YOUR SHORTER
WING. IF YOU ARE BUILDING THE STANDARD WING, SKIP THIS SECTION.
TURBO WING MODIFICATIONS
Buildingthe Turbowing isa simple modification thatresults ina faster, more acrobaticwing, perfect for experienced flyers
or novices proficient atlandings and takeoffs with their high-wing trainers. Ifyou haveexperience atflying, and you reliably
make good landings, we encourage you to buildthe TURBO!
MAKE NEW TAB
AFTER CUTTING
CUT 3" OFF ROOT
END OF EACH PIECE
RIGHTWING(TOP)
SPAR
3"
HINGE STRIP
AILERON
3"
FIGURE 17• TURBOWING MODIFICATIONS
3.01Firstcut3"off the rootend of each spar(thenon-angled end). Beprecise with your measurement! When done,
assemble the spar exactly asinthe first evening.
3.02 Measure 3" from the root on each wing halfand remove the first three inches.Usea hobby knife with a new blade
andcut parallel to the flutes. Save the cut-off piece to use as a template to mark the remaining wing.
3.03Place the removed 3" section on your remaining wing, atthe root, and usea straight-pin to "poke" the prepunched
pin-holes into the newroot section. Beprecise when liningupthe cut-off portion with the newwing root, because these
pin-holes locatethe placement ofribs,spars,etc.,laterduringconstruction.
3.04 Locate your ailerons and cut off exactly 3" from the end ofeach one.
3.05Locate your aileron hingestrips. These strips havea tab on each end,one longandone short. The long tab glues
inside the wing atthe root end andthe short tab will beatthe wing tip. Therefore, we need to cut 3" off of the root end of
the strip, and recreate the tab. Remove 3" from the long tab endof the hingestrip,thenrecreate the longtab on the
remaining piece byusing the cut-off tab as a template.
Congratulations! You are nowready to buildtheTURBO wing!
13

BUILDING THE WING
Tobuildthe wing, we buildandinstallthe ailerons,fold upthe wing halves around the spar,installtorque rods andinstall
awing "wrap."
AILERONS
3.06Firstlayoutthe wings on a flatwork surfaceandpositionthem sothat the insideisfacing you andthe wing
bottoms (square tips) arenearest you.
3.07Locate the hinge strips and position them onthe trailing edges of the wing bottoms. Notethat the longtabend
of the hinge strip isatthe rootandthe short tab end isatthe wing tip.Mark one left and one right.
3.08 Beginning with the right hinge strip, locate the hinge flute on the bottom of the strip and slititasyou didtherudder
andelevator hinges. Besure to trim the excess with a razor or hobbyknife to make a clean working hingethat extends the
length ofthe aileron.Perform thissame actiononthe bottomof thelefthingestrip. Now reposition the hingestrips.
3.09 Locate the ailerons and mark one left andone right. (Theyare identical). Usinga steel ruleror yardstick ona flat
work surface, carefully fold the aileron atthe score andtrial fold them over the hinge strips asshown inthe illustration. Usea
steelruler andthe backof a pocketcomb ifnecessary to "work" the score andgeta good,straight bend inthe aileron.
MAKE BOTH A LEFT AND A RIGHT HINGE STRIP!
SHORT TAB
END INSTALLS
AT WING TIP
HINGESTRIP
BOTTOM LEFT
LONG TAB
END INSTALLS
AT WINE CENTER
INSTALLS ON
WING BOTTOM
SLIT HINGE FLUTE
4-MIL WING HINGE STRIP
FIGURE 18 - CHEATING THE AILERON HINGE STRIPS
3.10 Using contact cement, glue the aileron to the
hingestrip, gluing to the BOTTOM OF THE HINGE STRIP FIRST.
Then, flipping the assembly over and folding the aileron up
over the top of the hinge strip last.This results ina wedge-
shaped assembly (see illustration). Itisbest to glue only to
the hinge strip and not to glue the aileron to itself near the
score, outside the hinge strip. Perform this operation for
bothleft andrightaileronsandhingestrips.
HINGEFLUTE
ON BOTTOM
GLUE AILERON TO
BOTTOM OFHINGE
FIRST. THENFOLD
OVER AND GLUE TO
TOP OF HINGE STRIP
RIGHT AILERON ASSEMBLYY
FIGURE 19 • INSTALLING AILERON ON HINGE STRIP
14

3.11Using contact cement,
carefully position the hinges and
glue the completed aileron
assemblies to the trailing edges
of each wing. Glue the aileron
assemblies to the inside bottom
ofthe wings. BESURE TOALLOW
FORHINGE ACTION WHEN GLUINGTHE
HINGESTRIP TO THEWING BOTTOM.
ALLOW YOUR COMPLETE HINGEFLUTE
TOBEEXPOSED BEYOND THE
TRAILING EDGE OF THE WING. Trim
any excess hinge strip flush with
the root of the wing.
HINGE FLUTE ON BOTTOM
FIGURESO-PREPARINGTHEWINGS
LEAVECLEARANCEFOR
HINGE TO FUNCTION!
4-MIL SPAR ALIGNMENT
STRIPSINSTALLED ALONG
LINES DRA WN WITH PEN
BETWEEN ALIGNMENT HOLES
RIGHT WING TOP INSIDE
GLUE AND SEAT BOTTOM
OFSPAR BETWEEN
ALIGNMENT STRIPS
RIGHT WING BOTTOM INSIDE
RIGHT HINGE STRIP
AILERON
EXERCISE THE WING LEADING EDGE
3.12Usinga hair dryer or heat gun ata very low setting, "warm" the scores on the inside leading edge of the winqs
to make them easier to workwith. Using a good straight edge, carefully "exercise" (bend 90degrees) each score from one
end to the other, to make sure they will bend properly when the wing isbeingfolded up.Dothisonescore ata timeWork
from one end of the wing to the other before working the next score.
MARK & INSTALL THE SPAR
3.13 Locatethe pin-holes inthe top andbottom of each wing which identify the mounting location ofthe sparUsing
agood straight edge and ball-point pen,draw lines connecting the pinholes on the top and bottom of each wing to mark
the spar location.Placethe sparonthe wing andmarkthelocationsofthe dihedralbraces onthewing top& bottom.
3.14Locatethe"grid"(1/2"wideX 28"longX 4-milthick)ofalignmentstripsandpreparethem for gluingto theinsideofthe
wing.Thesestripssupport thesparfrom eachsideandhelplocateitfor you when doingyour final fold-up.Go aheadandcoat
theinsideofthe wing between andabout3/8"outsideofthelinesyou havedrawn.Also coatonesideof the gridofalignment
stripswith contact cement.When ready,separatethe strips from the gridwith a hobbyknifeandcarefully placethem just outside
thelinesconnecting the pin-holes. THE ALIGNMENT STRIPSSHOULDALLOW THESPAR TO BEPLACEDBETWEEN THEM ANDSHOULDEXTEND
FROMTHEDIHEDRALBRACETO1/4"FROM THEENDOF THEWING'S TOPANDBOTTOM(seeillustration).
3.15 Apply contact cement to the bottom of the spar.When ready,seat the spar inbetween the alignment strips on
the bottomof thewings, gluingitinplace.Thecenter ofthe sparshould restwhere the wings join atthe center.
CONSTRUCT THE WING CENTER RIBS
3.16 Locate the wing center ribpieces (Bpieces) and construct the four ribsections usingcontact cement Eachrib
section consists of identically shaped 6-mil AirCore pieceswith the flutes "cross grained"for strength. Construct two forward
ribs and two rear ribs.
15

FRONT RIB ASSEMBLY
REAR RIB ASSEMBLY
CROSSSECTION
DRAW LINES WITH PEN CONNECTING
RIB ALIGNMENT INDENTS IN WING AND
GLUE RIBS BETWEEN LINES
NEXT GLUE 6-MIL
LANDING GEAR
REINFORCEMENT
PIECES TO BOTTOM
OF WING BETWEEN
RIBS
LEFT WING INSIDE BOTTOM
6-MIL L.G. REINFORCEMENT PIECES
FIGURE 21 - INSTALLATION OF RIBS AND LANDING GEAR REINFORCEMENT PIECES
RIGHT WING INSIDE BOTTOM
3.17Locate the pinholes for the ribs onthe wing bottoms and,usinga straight edgeandballpointpen,connectthem
tolocate where the ribs will go.Using contact cement, glue the ribs inplace on the wing bottom. (Ifyou are building a Turbo
wing, you should haveused the trimmed-off center sections of the wing as a template tomark new "pinholes" for the ribs.)
3.18Locate the 6-mil landing gear wing reinforcement pieces. These heavy-duty parts glue between the ribs atthe
root andprovide support for the mounting of your landing gear. Ifyou are building a nose gear plane, your gear will mount
aft of the spar andattach with bolts through the 6-mil piece. Ifyou are buildinga tail dragger, your gear will mount forward
of the spar.Regardless of which type of gear you intend to install, we recommend installation of both 6-mil pieces, so that
you canmount floats and other accessories to the wing bottom later. Trialfit the 6-mil pieces to the root area and trim if
necessary. Usingcontact cement,gluethe 6-milreinforcement piecesto the insidebottomof the wing, between the ribs.
TRIAL FOLDTHE WING
3.19Usinga ball-point pen andstraight edge, mark
the location of the bottom trailing edge along the top of
thehingestrips. This locates the bottom trailing edge of
the wing for you to lineupwith when folding upthe wing.
ALIGNMENT STRIPS
EXPOSED
HINGE
LEADING
EDGE
SCORES
3.20 Starting with the rightwing, on a FLATwork
surface, trial fold the wing, being careful to fit the topof
the spar between the alignment strips inthe topof the
wing. Use a hairdryeragainto rewarm the wing scores
ifnecessary.
BUILDER'S HINT - YOU MAY NEED ASSISTANCE IN THIS STEP TO
HELP WITH ALIGNMENT.
THE TOP TRAILING EDGE OF THE WING SHOULD FIT EXACTLY
AGAINST THE BOTTOM TRAILING EDGE OF THE WING AND ALONG
THE INNER EDGE LINE YOU HAVE DRAWN ON THE TOP OF THE
HINGE STRIP.
GLUE TOP OF SPAR
WARM LEADING EDGE
SCORESIFNECESSARY
WITH HAIR DRYER PRIOR
GLUE
TO FOLDING
SPAR
GLUE
AILERON
FIGURE22- FOLDAND GLUETHE WING
16

3.21When satisfied, fold the wing backoutandcoat the trailingedgesof the wing top and bottomandthe top of the
hingestrip with contact cement. Also applycontact cement to the top of the spar andthe top of the wing between the alignment
strips. When ready,refold the wing andstart seating the spar inbetween the alignment strips the full lengthof the wing. Once
the sparisseated, start "tacking"the wing down atthe trailing edge starting atthe wing tip andworking your way toward the
root.Besure to "seat"the sparinbetween the alignmentstrips first, thenconcentrateonthetrailingedges.
GLUE FROM THE WING TIP TOWARD THE ROOT - DO NOT START GLUING FROM EACH END OF THE WING HALF - THIS WILL RESULT IN A WRINKLE
IN THE MIDDLE!When you havefinished the trailing edge, press itdown to makea good bond along the hingestrip and at
the root. Inspect the leading edge atthis stage to see ifthe scores are working properly. You may need to get out the hair
dryer and "persuade" them a littlemore.
3.22Repeat the folding and gluingprocess above on the left wing.
3.23Apply contact cement to the inside of the wing tips
and to the tips of the spar and, when ready,glue them
together, allowing the "square" part of the wing bottom to glue
to the rounded wing tip on the wing top. Press the square
bottom to the rounded tip, allowing about 3/16" of the glue to
bond around the tip edge. Using a pair of sharp scissors, trim
the excess material from the square part of the wing tip up
nextto the rounded part to create a nice,rounded wing tip.
GLUE EDGES 1/4"
TOP RIGHT
WING TIP
CUT OFF
EXCESS WITH
SCISSORS OR
SHARPHOBBY
KNIFE
TOP RIGHT WING
FIGURE23- GLUE AND TRIM WING TIPS
INSTALLTHETORQUE RODS
3.24 Locatethe torquerodassembliesandidentifythem
left and right. The torque rods have a long end and a short
end. The short end of the assembly sticks into the aileron and
the long end protrudes upfrom the center section of the wing
and connects to your servo control rods. Besure to have the
long end sticking upfrom the wing. Otherwise, you will install
them upsidedown!
3.25 Install the right torque rod byfirst measuring where
itwill enter the aileron hinge. Place the rod with the servo end
about 1/2"from the center of the wing andmark on the inside
hingeof the aileron where the torque rod will enter. Using a
3/32" drill bit,drill into the aileron hinge to receive the torque
rod and install itinthe aileron. The torque rod should ride
inside the hinge and the torque rod bearing tube should be
positioned atthe trailing edge of the wing outside of the
aileron hinge area. The wing wrap will hold the torque rods in
place later.
TORQUE
ROD-TUBE RIGHTAILERON
LONG END OF
TORQUE ROD
POINTSUP
SHORT END OF
TORQUE ROD
TORQUE ROD
GOES INSIDE
FLUTE
RIGHTWING BOTTOM
CROSS SECTION
AILERON ASSEMBLY
FIGURE 24 - INSTALLATION OF TORQUE RODS
1/2"
AILERON HINGE STRIP
3.26Installthelefttorquerodassemblyinthesamemanner.
17

INSTALL THE WING WRAP
3.27 Locatethe 6" wide 2-mil wing wrap andmark itslocationon the wing bydrawing two linesaround the wing, each
3"from the center. Ifyour wing ispremarked, the wing wrap should extend about 1/16" outside each mark, just covering it
up.
3.28 Cuta slotinthe wing wrap to allow itto wrap around the wing with the torque rods extending upthrough the slot.
Thewrap should meet on the bottom ofthe wing, about1"to 2" from the trailing edge. Install the wing wrap with contact
cement bylaying the wrap's slot over the torque rods and wrapping itaround the trailing edge, gluing itinplace and
finishing itabout 1"to 2" from the trailing edge on the bottom. Then start wrapping the top, placing the wrap toward the
leadingedge. When you reach the leading edge, carefully bend the wrap around the leading edge tightly and continue
gluing italong the bottom of the wing between your lines. When you reachthebeginningof the wrap onthe bottom,trim
off the excess with a hobby knife andglue itflush with the other end.
INSTALLTHE SERVO
2-56THREADED CONNECTING BOOS
SERVO MOUNTING BLOCK
DOUBLE STICK TAPE
USE LARGE SERVO ARM
FIGURE 2S - WING WRAP AND SERVO INSTALLATION
CUTSLOTFOR
TORQUE RODS
WRAP
WRAP STARTS
ON BOTTOM
WINGBOTTOM
WINGTOP
CUT HOLE AFT OF SPAR
FOR SERVO
3.29 Installyour servo andaileron controls. Cuta holethrough the top wing wrap and wing justaft of the spar for the
aileron servo. Locate the 1"X 1"X 1/4" wood servo block. Measure the servo blockand cut itfor your servo. You want the
servo bottom to beresting on the inside bottom of the wing, with the screws for the servo inthe servo block (see
illustration). Using slow CA glue or epoxy, glue the servo blockto the spar. Now apply double stick tape to your servo where
itcontacts both the wing bottom and the servo blockand position itinplace.Now drillpilotholesinthe servo blockand
mount the servo with screws inthe block.
3.30Installaileroncontrol rods andcontrol assembliesto torque rodsandservo.Usingthe two 10"long2/56threaded
rodsand the aileron "A"frame control horns with wheel collars supplied,connect your torque rodsto the servo. We use Z-
bendsatthe servo andthe nylonclevises atthe torque rods.Use1/4"longpieces offuel tubing as "keepers" onyour
clevises. Usethe largest servo horn availablefor your servo andinstallthe rodsinthe outer-most holes.This provides
maximumaileroncontrol. Aileron throw isadjustedbymoving the positionof the connectors upanddown on the torque rods.
LANDING GEAR
5/32" WIRE INSIDE
MAIN GEAR FLUTE
3FLUTES
2FLUTES
BOTTOM OF
6-MIL HUN
GEAR
GEAR
FLUTE
2-MIL MAIN GEAR STRUT
6-MIL MAIN GEAR STRUT
5/32" LANDING GEAR WIRE
FIGURE 26-MAIN LANDING GEAR
3.31Locatethe 5/32" prebent landinggear wire andthe 6-mil and 2-mil AirCore landing gear struts. Using a sharp
hobby knife, locate andslitthe appropriate flute (see illustration) on the bottom of the 6-mil strut (the side with the scores)
18

andtrim away enough of the excess oneach side of the slit to allow you to push the landinggear wire upinside the flute.
At the gear exit point on each end, there should betwo flutes forward of the flute selected for the gear and three flutes aft
of the gear flute. Itshouldn't benecessary to trim the slit ifyou slit near one wall instead of inthe center of the flute. Fitthe
landing gear wire upinto the fluteas you bend itaround the wire. Once inplace, using contact cement, glue the 2-mil
landing gear strut to the bottom side of the 6-mil strut, "capturing" the landing gear wire inits flute. Besure to get a thorough
coat of contact cementon bothsurfaces alltheway outto theedges.Nowyou caninstallwheels andwheel collars onthe
landinggear.
3.32 Mount the landing gear to the wing bottom. The gear issimply installed on the wing bottom byusing nylon bolts
as "positioning pins"andallowing the wing hold-down rubber bands to hold the gear inplace as well. While this makes a
very secure mounting for your gear, inthe event of a bad landing, the gear will strip loose, and do nodamage asthe plane
"bellies" in.First drillboltholes inthe landing gear. Mark a centerline on the bottom of the gear. Using a 1/4" drill bit,drill
four holes inthe gear, each 1"from the center of the gear.Two oftheholesshouldbeforward of the 5/32"wire insidethe
gear,andtwo about 1/2" forward of the rear of the gear.
Ifyouarebuildinga taildragger,positionthegearonthe bottomwingwrap, centered,with the front ofthe gearabout1"
fromthe leading edge of the wing. Using the 1/4"holes as a guide, select a 7/32" bit(two drillbits smaller than 1/4") and
drill into the wing bottom, through the 6-mil reinforcement pieces, being careful not to drill through the top of the wing. A
good way to avoid drilling all the way through the wing isto wrap somemaskingtapearound your bit3/4" from the tip.
When the masking tape reaches the wing wrap, stop drilling!
Ifyouarebuildinga nose-gearaircraft,positionthefront ofthegear1/2"aft ofthesparlocationanddrillasabove.
Toattach the gear, usethe four 1/4" nylon bolts supplied, and screw them through the gear and intothe wing, upinto the
6-mil reinforcement piece.When the wing isinstalledontheplane,the rubberbandswill retainthegear.The boltsserve
aspositioning pins.
NOSE-OVER TENDENCIES INHIGH GRASS
Ifyou will beflying your Colt off of grass strips inthe tail-dragger configuration, there maybea tendency for the planeto
nose-over on landings and take-offs, especially ifthe grass ishigh.Firsttrylarger wheels (3" or bigger) and apply up
elevator during the first part of the take-off roll to allow prop-wash to assist inkeeping your nose down. Ifthat fails, you may
haveto mount your gear on the fuselage, forward of the wing. Ifthis isthe case, purchase a 3/16" piece of plywood and
cut itto fitthe inside bottom of your fuselage, justforward of the wing, and glue itinplace. Itshould be as wide as the inside
of the fuselage and about 3" long. Using the gear as a template, drillthrough the bottom of the fuselage and insert 1/4"
blindnuts on the top side of the plywood. Mount the gear with the nylon bolts supplied. When flying on paved surfaces or
well groomed grass, revert to the standard Colt gear mounting for better ground handling.
WHEEL PANTS
You willnotice wheel pants on most photos of the Colt. The Colt isa plane that just deserves a good set of pants.However,
to bereal honest, wheel pants have what we call a high"struggle to fun ratio."That isto say,they are indeed beautiful, but
are tedious to build and maintain. Unless you are very accomplished atlandings, we would suggest waiting on wheel pants
untilthe probability of damage to them isreduced.
Tomorrow nightwe will assemble the PCand get your airplane ready for some flying!
19

CHECK FORWARP - FIXIFNECESSARY.
GOOD WING • BOTH TIPS ARE IDENTICAL A7 TRAILING EDGE
WITH SAME AMOUNT OF WASH-OUT AT TIPS
TRAILING EDGE UP
TOO HIGH AT TIP
FIGURE 33 - IDENTIFYING WARP
VIEW FROM TRAILING EDGE
Nowisthe time to see ifyou havebuilta straight wing. Setthe wing uponanarm chair, with the trailing edge facing you.
Stand back about 10feet and do some "kneebends," observing the trailing edges. Your wing, when properly built, will have
1/4"to5/8"of "washout"atthetrailingedges(thetrailingedgeswillbe"up"slightlyatthe tipsrelativeto the root).
Itismore important that both wings bethe same than itisfor each to havesome prescribed amount ofwashout. Ifboth
halvesare thesame,the wing willfly straight.
Awarped wing can haveseveral causes: improper alignment of the trailing edges; incorrect spar placement; or notusing
aflat surface when gluing. Ifyou lift the wing off of your table to glue the trailing edges and "compress" the trailing edges
with your hand to "crimp" ittogether, you will put opposite warp inboth trailing edges. Ifyou are right handed, you will always
builda wing that will roll to the left this way,with opposite warp ineach wing half! The secret to a warp freewing is(a)lining
upthe trailing edges to each other exactly and (b)using straight-down hand pressure with the heel of your hand on the
table top to bond them. The neatthing is,once your AirCore wing isbuiltstraight, itwill notchange itsshape liketraditional
(balsa)construction planes will over time.
Ifyou discover warp, nowisthe time to fix it.Ina few minutes,you can correct the problem and havea wing you will be
proud of. Itrequires you to delaminate the wing tip and trailing edge of the wing and reglue it.
There isan "old wives' tale" that you cannot disassemble something stuck together with contact cement. Nottrue! Ifyou
ever need to "delaminate" a part glued with contact cement, simply use a blunt(not sharp) table knife and some lacquer
thinner. (Don't get lacquer thinner on your decorated parts). Use a Q-tip if necessary to get the lacquer thinner into the joint,
letitwork a minute, then usethe table knife to separate the two pieces and pull them apart. With patience, you can
delaminate the major joints inthe entire airplane inabout anhour! With this inmind,delaminate the wing tipflap first,then
the trailing edge you wish to correct. Reglue them, changing the relative locations of the trailing edges asyou glue inan
effortto cure the warp. Glue the trailing edge first,then the wing tip.Justa 1/16" difference inthe way you lineupthe trailing
edges can make a 1/4" difference inthe amount of wash-out you haveinthe trailing edge of the wing. Keepthe wing on a
flat surface while gluing. Think itthrough before you begin, and you will be pleased with the results.
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