WATT AGE F-86 Sabre EDF User manual

1
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The Wattage F-86 Sabre EDF isdistributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINALASSEMBLY
Specifications:
●Wing Span: 29.5 Inches
●Wing Area: 162.75 Square Inches
●Length: 26 Inches
●Weight RTF: 19.25 - 21 Ounces
●Functions: Ailerons, Elevator (Elevons) and Throttle
●Power: Modified 380 Motor w/6 Blade Power Fan 400
●Radio: 4 Channel Micro w/2 Servos and Elevon Mixing
Product Part Number 128380
All contents copyright © 2002, Global Hobby Distributors Version V1.0 April 2002

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
SAFETY WARNING
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and
during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified
instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to
help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
[phone]
www.modelaircraft.org
Safety Warning ......................................................................................2
Introduction............................................................................................3
Section 1: Our Recommendations.......................................... 4
Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................ 5
Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................... 6
Section 4: Motor Break-In ....................................................... 7
Section 5: Ducted Fan Assembly............................................ 9
Section 6: Fuselage Assembly ............................................. 10
Section 7: Wing Panel Assembly & Installation ................... 13
Section 8: Horizontal Stabilizer Installation.......................... 16
Section 9: Control Systems Installation................................ 18
Section 10: ESC & Receiver Installation .............................. 23
Section 11: Canopy & Nose Cone Installation ..................... 25
Section 12: Flight Battery Installation ................................... 27
Section 13: Final Assembly................................................... 30
Section 14: Balancing the F-86 Sabre EDF ......................... 33
Section 15: Control Throws................................................... 34
Section 16: Preflight Check & Safety ................................... 34
Section 17: Flying the F-86 Sabre EDF................................ 35
Section 18: Replacement Parts ............................................ 36
Section 10: Stabilizer Alignment Template ........................... 37
Product Evaluation Sheet ...................................................................39

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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage F-86 Sabre EDF. Before completing the final assembly of your new
airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success
the first time around!
Wattage F-86 Sabre EDF Features:
●Modified 380 Size Motor w/6 Blade Power Fan 400 Ducted Fan Unit
●Stable and Predictable Flight Characteristics - Even in Light Winds
●Molded Foam Construction for Light Weight and Easy Assembly
●All Molded Foam and Plastic Parts Prepainted
●Hardware and Custom Decal Set Included
●Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 60 High Resolution Digital Photos Included
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the
least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn
tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them
before beginning assembly.
●Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
●There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will
help prevent you from losing your place.
●Coveryourwork tablewithbrown paperor a softcloth,
both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the
small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but
take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
●If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly,
please contact us at the address below:
Wattage Customer Service
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email
address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech
notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAILADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

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This section describes the items you will need to purchase for your new F-86 Sabre EDF. These suggestions are not set
in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
IMPORTANT
When choosing accessories for your F-86, such as servos, ESC, and receiver, it's very important to take the weight
of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the
airplane will fly.
What Servos Do I Use?
The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos
that weigh no more than 0.19 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch.
What Receiver Do I Use?
The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good
choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's weight.
If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material to protect
the internal components.
What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?
The ESC you choose should be capable of handling 15 - 30 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your ESC
should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.
Note: Although a 15 amp ESC may work with the our recommended battery, motor and fan unit, it is below the low end of the scale.
Since some customers may wish to experiment with other motors and batteries, chances are a 20 - 30 amp ESC will then be
necessary because of higher current draw; therefore, we recommend just starting with a higher capacity ESC.
What Flight Battery Do I Use?
To get good flight performance you need to use the right type of flight battery. You need a flight battery that can
deliver enough voltage and be able to handle current draw up to approximately 15 amps. For the best performance
we suggest using Nickel Cadmium batteries (NiCDs). We have had good success with 10 cell 2/3A 600AE battery
packs and 10 cell 2/3A500AR battery packs. We have also been testing several new types of NiMH flight batteries. We
have found that our 10 cell 2/3A 1100Mah NiMH flight battery works very well in this application. It provides good power
and about twice the run-time as the 500 and 600Mah NiCD packs. At the time of this writing though, the majority of other
Nickel Metal Hydride batteries available do not produce the voltage necessary, nor can they withstand the high current
draw experienced with high-draw ducted fan motors, so we don't suggest using just any ordinary NiMH cells.
For those customers who wish to experiment with different motor and battery combinations, we have provided some
technical information below. We hope you find it helpful.
VOLTS AMPS RPM THRUST (Grams) THRUST (Ounces) POWER (Watts) EFFICIENCY (g/w)
9 8 19000 225gr 8.94oz 72 3.125
10 9 20700 265gr 9.29oz 90 2.944
11 10 22100 300gr 10.58oz 110 2.727
12 11 24500 360gr 12.62oz 132 2.727

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Here's What We Used to Finish Our F-86 Sabre EDF:
IMPORTANT
The part numbers listed for the Hitec receiver, Cirrus servos, Cirrus servo extensions, Cirrus Elevon Mixer and Wattage
ESC are compatible with Hitec and JR (receiver is compatible with Hitec only) radio control systems. These items are also
available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba andAirtronics radio control systems. (Micro 555 receiver is also
available for Airtronics, Futaba and JR radio systems.)
When you purchase the Hitec Micro 555 receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the
receiver. The crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Micro 555 receiver uses a dual
conversion FM Hitec crystal.
P/N 759118 Hitec 555 Micro Receiver w/Case Removed
Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal
P/N 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servos (2)
P/N 444713 Cirrus Servo Extensions (2)
P/N 128486 Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC
P/N 128521 Wattage 10 Cell 500AR NiCD Flight Battery
P/N 128552 Wattage 10 Cell 1100Mah NiMH Flight Battery
P/N 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Peak Charger
P/N 625085 Dean's Ultra-Plug Battery Connector
P/N 131175 Wattage 14 Gauge Hi-Temp Silicon Wire
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407
❑Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑.050 Hex Wrench
❑Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
❑K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120
❑Heat Shrink Tubing
❑Solder
SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
To break in the motor you will need:
❑Emerald Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186
❑Trinity Motor Break In Drops # 840768
❑Rubber Bands
Items in Bold are Optional
Note: The F-86 Sabre uses elevons for
control. If your radio transmitter does not
have elevon mixing capability, you will need
to purchase an electronic elevon mixer.
We suggest the Wattage Elevon
Mixer P/N 128460.

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We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts like we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at the
address below:
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑(1) Left & Right Fuselage Halves
❑(1) Left & Right Wing Panels
❑(1) Left & Right Horizontal Stabilizer Panels
❑(1) Vertical Stabilizer
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
Wattage Customer Service
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]
PLASTIC PARTS
❑(1) Clear Canopy
❑(1) Nose Cone
❑(1) Battery Tray
❑(1) Battery Cover
❑(1) Radio Tray
❑(1) Left & Right Wing Tips
DUCTED FAN ASSEMBLY
❑(1) 380 Modified Motor
❑(1) Ducted Fan Shroud
❑(1) Impeller Fan
❑(1) Threaded ShaftAdapter w/Set Screw
❑(1) Impeller Nut
❑(2) 2mm x 4mm Machine Screws
❑(3) Noise-Suppression Capacitors
PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES
❑(2) 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Wires
❑(2) 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Wires
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns - Plain
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns - w/Predrilled Holes
❑(4) Nylon Control Horn Backplates
❑(4) Nylon Clevises
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS
❑(2) Fuselage Tape
❑(1) Canopy Mounting Board - 2 Parts
❑(1) Double-Sided Tape
❑(3) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws
❑(2) 2.5 x 10mm Wood Screws
❑(3) Nylon Wing Skid Mounting Plates
❑(3) Prebent Wing Skid Wires
❑(2) Brass Pins
❑(1) Plywood Plate
❑(1) Battery Tie-Down Strap
❑(1) Decal Set
To convert inches into millimeters:
Inches x 25.4 = mm
To convert millimeters into inches:
Millemeters / 25.4 = in
WARNING
The F-86 Sabre EDF is constructed of foam. It is very important
that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint
that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in
contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and
will not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue
is required. If you decide to add painted details to the airplane,
use acrylic-based paints and always test the paint on a scrap
piece first.
We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot
environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for
any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the foam to
melt and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio
system, ESC or batteries.

7
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❑Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker
❑.050 Hex Wrench
❑Wire Cutters
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Paper Towels
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(1) 380 Modified Motor
❑(1) Impeller Fan
❑(1) Threaded Shaft Adapter w/Set Screw
SECTION 4: MOTOR BREAK-IN
❑(1) Impeller Nut
❑(3) Noise-Suppression Capacitors
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron
❑Solder
❑Emerald Performance Plus Motor Spray
❑Trinity Motor Break In Drops
❑Rubber Bands
IMPORTANT
Before installing the ducted fan unit into the airplane, the motor must first be broken in. This accomplishes two very important
things: breaking in the motor will maximize its performance, and, most importantly, you will be able to verify that the motor is
working properly before installing it into the airplane. It is strongly suggested that you do not skip this important section.
To break in the motor, it is recommended that the motor be run for at least 10 minutes with only the impeller attached at a
voltage of less than 5 volts - a 4 cell receiver battery pack works great for this. The impeller will cool the motor and the low
voltage will keep the motor from overheating while the brushes and bushings seat. Please follow the procedures below for
proper motor break-in.
Step 1: Installing the Capacitors and Motor Wires
❑Solder two 18" long 14 gauge hi-tempsilicon motor wires
(not included) to the positive and negative terminals on the
back of the motor.
☞The terminal with the red dot next to it is the positive
terminal.
IMPORTANT
The wires must be 18" long to reach the cockpit area and still
have some extra left to work with.
❑Carefully solder the three noise-suppression capacitors
to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the
motor. The two small capacitors are soldered between the
terminals and the can. The large capacitor is soldered
between the two terminals.
☞So the solder will stick to the motor can, you should
roughen the side of the can with 220 grit sandpaper first.

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Step 2: Installing the Impeller
IMPORTANT
When installing the threaded shaft in the next procedure, we
strongly suggest applying thread-lock to the set screw. This
will prevent the screw from loosening during flight.
❑Slide the threaded shaft adapter onto the motor shaft and
tighten the set screw using a .050 hex wrench.
☞Make sure that the back of the shaft adapter does not
rub against the front of the motor.
❑Slide the impeller onto the shaft adapter, making sure
the small sticker on the impeller hub is toward the front.
❑Thread the impeller nut into place and carefully tighten it
using an adjustable wrench.
WARNING
Be careful holding the impeller while tightening the nut. The
impeller blades are very sharp.
Before the impeller is installed and run for the first time, you should check the impeller's balance. Usually our impellers
will not need balancing, but it's a good idea to check. We suggest using a propeller balancer to do this. If the impeller
is out-of-balance, apply a small piece of electrical tape to the back side of the "light blade." We do not suggest sanding
the blades because of the chance of blade distortion and/or damage.
Step 3: Breaking In the Motor
❑Setthemotor assembly between thehandlesof your wire
cutters and secure the motor to the handles using several
rubber bands. This will keep the motor secure enough for the
break-in procedure.
WARNING
Before continuing, please be aware that the spinning impeller is very dangerous. Please keep your fingers, hands and any
loose clothing or tools away from the impeller during the break-in process.

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❑Before operating the motor, apply a couple of drops of Break In Drops to the motor bushings. (One at the front and one
at the back of the motor.)
❑Operate the motor using a fully charged 4 cell battery pack and allow the motor to run for about 8 - 10 minutes. After
8 - 10 minutes, remove the battery pack and spray Motor Spray into the motor (through the two holes in the side of the
motor) to clean the brushes. Apply more Break In Drops to the bushings and run the motor for another 3 - 5 minutes.
❑After 3 - 5 minutes, remove the battery pack from the motor and spray the brushes clean with Motor Spray. Apply a
couple of drops of Break In Drops to the bushings and wipe the motor clean using a paper towel.
❑Now that you've completed breaking in the motor, remove the impeller from the shaft adapter.
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Adjustable Wrench
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(1) Ducted Fan Shroud
SECTION 5: DUCTED FAN ASSEMBLY
❑(2) 2mm x 4mm Machine Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLSAND SUPPLIES:
❑Excel Modeling Knife
Step 1: Installing the Motor into the Fan Shroud
❑Carefully examine the fan shroud for any mold flashing. If any is present, carefully cut it away using a modeling knife.
❑Slide the motor into the fan shroud and line up the holes
in the front of the motor with the matching holes in the shroud.
❑Install and tighten the two 2mm x 4mm machine screws
to secure the motor into place.
☞We suggest applying thread-lock to the screws before
installing them.
❑Slide the impeller onto the shaft adapter, making sure
the small sticker on the impeller hub is toward the front.
❑Thread the impeller nut into place and tighten it firmly
using an adjustable wrench.
☞Very carefully push a small piece of wire between the
impeller blades and into the motor (not far in) to prevent the
motor from turning while tightening the impeller nut.

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❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(1) Left & Right Fuselage Halves
SECTION 6: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
❑(1) Radio Tray
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLSAND SUPPLIES:
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Test-Fitting the Ducted Fan Assembly
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the gluing surfaces on each fuselage side smooth and
straight. If any paint is oversprayed onto the gluing surfaces, be sure to sand it away for a stronger glue joint.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the foam in
the right fuselage side to extend the small premolded channel
up to the cockpit area.
☞The motor wires will lay in the channel, keeping them
completely out of the intake duct.
❑Test-fit the ducted fan assembly into the fuselage side.
Themoldedlip atthefront ofthefan shroud fitsintothe molded
groove in the fuselage side and the motor wires should be
pulled forward and laid in the groove as shown.
☞Notice the impeller is toward the front of the fuselage.

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❑Test-fit the fuselage sides together with the ducted fan
assembly in place. They should fit together with few or no
gaps between the two, and the outside edges of each side
should line up evenly.
☞If the fuselage sides don't fit together properly, carefully
remove any irregularities in the foam using 220 grit sandpaper
with a sanding block.
❑Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces on both fuselage sides. Apply
a couple of dabs to the bottom of the ducted fan shroud, too.
❑Fit the fuselage sides and ducted fan assembly back together and realign them. Remove any excess epoxy using a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the sides together until the epoxy sets up.
☞We used a couple of large, wide rubber bands to hold the fuselage sides together. If put over the fuselage sides
carefully, they won't damage the foam. We don't suggest using pieces of masking tape because when removed, the tape
will pull away the paint.
❑After the epoxy has fully cured, cut a couple of 3/4" square pieces of clear decal material from the decal sheet. Apply
these pieces over the front and back of the channel to hold the motor wires in place. Doing this will keep the wires from
drooping into the intake duct.
☞We actually used one long strip of clear tape to do this but it's difficult and takes some time due to the limited amount
of space inside the intake duct. It isn't absolutely necessary, either. If you want a completely sealed intake duct though,
give it a try.
Step 2: Joining the Fuselage Sides
IMPORTANT
Hold the fuselage sides firmly together around the fan assembly. While holding the sides together, carefully spin the
impeller using your finger. The impeller should spin freely and not touch the sides of the shroud. If the impeller does touch
the sides of the should, the shroud may be distorted. If this is the case release some pressure on the fuselage sides and
recheck the impeller.
Before gluing the fuselage sides together in the next procedure, please realize that the ducted fan assembly must be
tack glued into place so it does turn inside the fuselage. Only tack glue the bottom of the ducted fan assembly to the
fuselage sides so it can be easily removed in the future if it needs to be. If you glue the ducted fan assembly into place
from the top (or use a lot of glue), it may be impossible to remove it if you ever need to!
If you haven't already broken in and tested the motor, we strongly suggest doing that now before installing the ducted
fan assembly into the fuselage. Once the ducted fan assembly is installed, it cannot be removed without cutting a
hatch in the bottom of the fuselage.
Step 3: Installing the Radio Tray
❑Using a pair of scissors, cut away the excess plastic from around the edge of the radio tray, making sure to leave a 1/8"
lip to use as a mounting surface.

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❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the
edges of the radio tray smooth and even.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a small hole in the
back of the radio tray big enough to allow the motor wires to
pass through.
☞The back of the radio is pointed, not flat.
❑Slide the motor wires through the hole and test-fit the
radio tray into the fuselage. The tray should fit tightly and the
lip around the edge of the tray should be pushed down firmly
against the top of the fuselage.
☞You may need to sand the inside edges of the fuselage
so the radio tray will fit properly.
❑With the radio tray pushed down firmly into place, use
a pencil to draw a couple of marks on the top edges of the
tray to locate the positions of the premolded channels in
the fuselage sides.

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❑Remove the radio tray from the fuselage.
❑Using a modeling knife, cut a 1/2" square hole in each
side of the radio tray, using the marks you made as a guide.
☞These holes will allow the servo wires to enter the radio
tray, so make the holes big enough for the servo plugs to fit
through and make sure the holes line up with the top of the
molded channels in the fuselage sides.
❑Reinstall the radio tray into the fuselage, making sure it's pushed firmly down into place. Because it's a tight fit, it's not
necessary to glue the tray into place. This will allow it to be removed easily if you ever need to.
☞If your radio tray does not fit tightly, we suggest tack gluing it into place using a couple of small drops of 5 minute epoxy.
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑Ruler
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(1) Left & Right Wing Panels
SECTION 7: WING PANEL ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION
❑(1) Left & Right Wing Tips
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Cutting Out the Ailerons
❑Working with one wing panel for now, use a modeling
knife and a ruler to carefully cut out the outer end of the
aileron along the molded scribe line.

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❑Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut 1/16" off
of the inboard section of the aileron.
☞Cutting the inboard section of the aileron shorter will
prevent the aileron from hitting the side of the fuselage when
the wing panel is glued into place.
Step 2: Installing the Wing Tips
❑Using a pair of scissors, cut out each wing tip along its
base, making sure to completely remove the molded radius.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of both wing tips smooth and straight.
❑Test-fit one wing tip onto one wing panel. Notice that the
wing tip overhangs the trailing edge of the wing. This will be
sanded flush after the wing tip is glued into place. Also note
that the corner of the wing should fit into the corner of the
wing tip.
☞The wing tips are not universal. There is one left and one
right tip. You can tell by looking at the airfoil section of the tip.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, lightly sand the inside edges of the wing tip so that the epoxy will adhere better.
❑Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the inside edges of the wing tip.
❑Slide the wing tip back onto the wing panel and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and hold the wing tip in place and flush with the wing until the epoxy sets up.
❑Carefully flex the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinge line.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to cut out the aileron on the second wing panel.

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❑After the epoxy has cured, use 220 grit sandpaper with a
sanding block to sand the back of the wing tip flush with the
trailing edge of the wing.
☞Be careful not to distort the trailing edge of the wing.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to install the remaining wing tip onto the second wing panel.
Step 3: Installing the Wing Panels
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully
sand away the paint from the wing mounting areas of the
fuselage, making sure not to distort the angles.
☞For the strongest joint possible, it's important to remove
any paint from where epoxy will be used.
❑Test-fit one wing panel to the fuselage. To line up the
wing panel properly, the leading edge of the wing should be
even with the front of the molded wing mount and the top and
bottom contour of the wing should be even with the contour of
the wing mount.
☞The dihedral angle is molded into the wing mount. To
ensure the proper dihedral angle make sure the wing panel is
pushed firmly against the mount.
❑When satisfied with the fit, mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the root end of the
wing panel, making sure that you cover all of the gluing surfaces.
WARNING
Do not apply epoxy to the end of the aileron. You don't want to glue the aileron to the fuselage!
❑Fit the wing panel back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol,
and hold the wing panel firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wing panel.

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❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑Wire Cutters
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑Ruler
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(1) Left & Right Horizontal Stabilizer Panels
SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Cutting Out the Elevators
❑Using a modeling knife and a ruler cut out the inboard
end of the elevator, making sure to make the cut parallel to
the inside edge of the stabilizer.
☞The width of the cut should not be more than 1/16".
❑Carefully flex the elevator up and down several times to
free up the hinge line.
❑Working with one stabilizer panel for now, turn the panel upside down so the precut hinge line is facing up toward you.
This is the bottom of the stabilizer.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to cut out the elevator on the second stabilizer panel.
Step 2: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer Panels
❑Using a pair of wire cutters, cut two 1/2" long pieces of wire from the plain end of each 400mm long pushrod wire. You
will end up with four 1/2" long pieces of wire. Do not cut off the threaded end of the wires!
❑Carefully epoxy two pieces of wire into the inside edge
of each stabilizer panel. Push each wire halfway into the
panel, making sure the wires are perpendicular to the edge
of the panel. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up
before proceeding.
☞These wires will help hold the stabilizer panels in place,
making it easier to align them to the fuselage.
❑(2) 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Wires

17
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❑Using a ruler and a pencil, measure forward 3/4" from
the back edge of the fuselage and draw a mark as shown.
Do this on both sides of the fuselage.
❑Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the horizontal stabilizer alignment template on page # 37.
❑Using a pencil, trace the template onto a piece of cardstock.
❑Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the template from the cardstock.
☞The cardstock template will be used to help you glue the stabilizer panels at the correct angle.
❑Test-fit one of the stabilizer panels into place using the
template to set the proper angle. The trailing edge of the
stabilizer should be even with the mark you drew on the
fuselage and the top of the stabilizer should be flush with
the top of the fuselage.
☞Remember, the precut elevator hinge line is on the
bottom of the stabilizer. It should be facing down.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer panel.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, very carefully lightly sand the stabilizer mounting area on the fuselage
to remove any paint from the gluing surface.
☞Be very careful not to distort the angle of the stabilizer mounting area.
❑Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the inside edge of the stabilizer panel and the two
wires, making sure to cover the entire gluing surface.
❑Push the stabilizer panel back into place and realign it using the cardstock template. Remove any excess epoxy that
squeezes out of the joint using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer firmly in place (using the template
to keep the angle correct) until the epoxy sets up.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to align and install the second stabilizer panel on the other side of the fuselage.

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❑Wilhold Silicon Sealant
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Magnum Z-Bend Pliers
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
❑(2) Fuselage Tape
❑(2) 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Wires
❑(2) 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Wires
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns - Plain
SECTION 9: CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLSAND SUPPLIES:
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑1/16" Drill Bit
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns - w/Predrilled Holes
❑(4) Nylon Control Horn Backplates
❑(4) Nylon Clevises
Step 1: Installing the Servos
❑Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 1-3/8" from the leading edge of one wing panel (at the glue joint) and draw
a mark. Do this on the bottom of the wing.
☞This mark shows the distance the servo's output shaft should be located behind the leading edge of the wing.
❑Place your servo on the wing and align it. The servo
output shaft should be even with the mark you drew and the
inside of the servo should be 1/8" out from, and parallel to,
the glue joint.
☞Theservooutput shaftshouldbe toward the leadingedge
of the wing as shown.
❑While holding the servo in place, trace around the base
of it using a pencil.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a hole in the wing to
accommodate your servo. Don't cut the hole larger than the
outline. The servo needs to fit firmly in the hole.
IMPORTANT
Remove the foam down only to the base of the top wing
skin, being careful not to accidentally cut through the top of
the wing.

19
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❑After cutting the hole for your servo, very carefully use the tip of your modeling knife to cut a small diameter tunnel from
within the servo hole (at the front, inside edge) to the base of the molded channel in the side of the fuselage.
☞Work slowly, taking care not to cut a hole in the top of the wing. A little patience here will result in a very clean
looking installation.
To make the next procedure easier, and to prevent us from having to cut a larger hole, we removed the plastic plug from
the servo wire. If you do this, we strongly suggest taking note of the positions of the individual wires so that you can
reinstall the plug properly.
❑Carefully push the servo wire through the tunnel in the
servo hole and out through the base of the molded channel in
the side of the fuselage.
☞When pulling the wire up through the channel, be careful
not to tear the top of the wing.
❑When satisfied with the fit, remove the servo (but not
the wire) and apply a dab of silicon sealant to the bottom of
the servo.
❑Carefully push the servo back into place and allow the
silicon to set up before proceeding.
☞Remember, the servo output shaft should be toward the
leading edge of the wing.
❑Test-fit your servo into the wing. It should fit snugly. Depending on the height of your servo, the mounting lugs may not
sit flush on the surface of the wing. This is okay and is to be expected since the wing is thin.
☞If the servo wires on your servo come out the bottom of the servo, they will prevent the servo from seating down into
the wing properly. To overcome this, we very, very carefully used the tip of a modeling knife to remove a portion of the
upper wing skin just below the wire. The wing skin is about 1/8" thick, so be careful not to cut a hole completely through it.
❑Using a modeling knife, cut a small hole into the radio
compartment, at the top of the molded channel.
❑Reinstall the individual servo wires into the plastic plug
(if you removed it earlier) and push the plug through the
hole and into the radio compartment. The servo wire should
lay in the molded channel.

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❑Carefully remove the protective backing from one piece
of fuselage tape.
❑With the servo wire completely in the molded channel,
apply the tape to the fuselage side, making sure to cover the
entire length of the molded channel from the top of the wing
to the base of the radio compartment.
❑Cut away the excess tape and save it for later use.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to install the second servo in the bottom of the other wing panel.
Step 2: Installing the Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
❑Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 5/8" from the
side of the fuselage (at the aileron hinge line) and draw a
mark on the aileron.
☞This mark is how far out the nylon control horn needs to
be installed on the aileron.
❑Use a pencil to mark the location and size of the slot that
needs to be cut through the aileron to install the nylon control
horn. To make this easy, use the control horn backplate as a
guide as shown.
☞So the control horn lines up properly with the servo, the
slot needs to be parallel with the inside edgeof the aileron.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a slot through the aileron only large enough for the tip of the control horn to be
pushed through.
❑From the top of the aileron, push the control horn (with the predrilled hole in it) up through the slot. The tip of the
control horn should face the bottom of the aileron.
It's important to note that two of the four nylon control horns have a predrilled hole through them. The two control horns
with the predrilled hole must be installed in the ailerons. This facilitates linking the ailerons to the elevators.