White Motor Company White Steamer M User manual

THE
WHITE STEAM
CAR
SERVICE MANUAL
EFFICIENCY REPORT
MISCELLANEOUS
From: Arnoud Carp
Heuvellaan 5
1217 JL Hilversum
The Netherlands

NOTE
This complete service manual is a true copy of The White
Steamer handbook written in 1910 by A. T. Edmonson,
Chicago, Illinois.
K. Ziesemer of 3211 N. 5th St., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, steam
car owner, enthusiast, and mechanic recognized the scarcity of
manuals on steam cars and the dire need for such.
It was for this reason that this copy was made, which covers
every possible trouble that the White Steam Car could be
subject to. February, 1951
This service manual was transcribed in digital format by
J.Arnoud Carp of Heuvellaan 5, 1217 JL Hilversum, The
Netherlands, Steam car owner and enthusiast. May 15th 2000

INDEX
CHAPTER I
THE WHITE CAR 1
CHAP TER II
HINTS ON ECONOMY 3
CHAPTER III
LUBRICATION 6
CHAPTER IV
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING TEMPERATURE ON OLD REGULATION 9
NEW REGULATION 9
DIRECTION FOR VALVE SETTING ON THE OLD TYPE ENGINES 9
DIRECTIONS FOR VALVE SETTING ON THE NEW TYPE ENGINES 10
DIRECTIONS FOR SETTING PISTON 10
DIRECTIONS FOR PACKING STUFFING BOXES 10
TO DRAIN THE CAR FOR STORAGE OR SHIPPING 10
CHAPTER V
MISCELLANEOUS SUGGESTIONS 12
CHAPTER VI
CHART #1 NEW REGULATION WITH FLOWMOTOR CONTROL 15-16
Items on CHART #1 17
OVERHEATING 17
THERMOSTAT 17
FLOW MOTOR 17
WATER REGULATOR 18
CHECKS 18
WATER CUSHION 18
WET STEAM--THERMOSTAT 18
FLOW MOTOR 18
FUEL RATIO 18
LACK OF POWER BUT DRY STEAM 19
LEAKING WATER REGULATOR 19
SUCTION LINE TO THE PUMPS 19
CLOGGED GENERATOR OR STEAM LINE 19
PUMPS 19
CRACKED DIAPHRAGM 20
INSUFFICIENT THROTTLE OPENING 20
VARYING HEAT--WITH SPEED CONSTANT 20
VARYING SPEED 20
BACK-FIRING 20
WHEN FIRE IS COMING ON 21
WHEN FIRE SHUTS OFF 21
HOWLING 22
FIRE DOES NOT SHUT OFF 22
FIRE WILL NOT COME ON WITHOUT RACING ENGINE 23
CHAPTER VII
CHART #2 GENERAL SYMPTOMS 24
Items on CHART #2 GENERAL SYMPTOMS 25
EXCESSIVE WATER CONSUMPTION 25
WET STEAM 25
WATER LEAK 25
LEAKY STUFFING BOXES 25
CONDENSING SYSTEM 25
ENGINE VALVES CUT 26
BROKEN PISTON RINGS 26
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION 26
DIRTY VAPORIZER 26
VAPORIZER NOZZLE TOO SMALL 26
VAPORIZER NOZZLE 26
AIR PRESSURE TOO LOW 26
ANY CHOKAGE OF FUEL FLOW 27
WET STEAM 27

INDEX
(Cont.)
DIRTY GENERATOR 27
BRAKES DRAGGING 27
FUEL TOO LIGHT A GRADE 27
ITEMS CONCERNING THE GENERATOR 27
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE AFTER CLOSING THROTTLE 27
PRESSURE DROPS QUICKLY WHEN CAR SPEED IS CONSTANT 28
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE AFTER STOPPING A FEW MINUTES. 28
A SLOW GAS LEAK 28
EXCESSIVE LOSS OF PRESSURE AFTER STANDING A FEW MINUTES 28
HAND PUMP OR BOILER CHECK LEAKING 28
SAFETY VALVE LEAKING OR ANY STEAM LEAK 28
FIRE BURNS TOO LONG IN ORDER TO MAKE STEAM PRESSURE REACH BYPASS POINT 28
SLUGGISH CAR 28
CHAPTER VIII
CHART #3 MINOR ITEMS 29
Items on CHART #3 MINOR ITEMS 30
VAPORIZER 30
PILOT LIGHT 30
PILOT LIGHT BURNS RED 31
PRECAUTIONS CAR STEERS HARD 31
IF THE REAR AXLE GRATES OR GRINDS 31
VIBRATION 31
FIRE 32
CAR SMELLS OF GAS 32
CHAPTER IX
CHART #4 ENGINE
Items on CHART #4 ENGINE 33
STEAM VIBRATION 34
ENGINE VIBRATES WHEN COMPOUND 34
ENGINE VIBRATES EITHER SIMPLED OR COMPOUND 35
ENGINE POUNDS 36
BROKEN CRANK SHAFT 36
ENGINE KICKS UPON CLOSING THROTTLE 36
ENGINE JERKS WHEN CHANGING FROM SIMPLE TO COMPOUND 37
ENGINE REFUSES TO START 37
STUFFING BOXES WILL NOT REMAIN TIGHT 37
CHAPTER X
CHART #5 "OLD REGULATION" 39
OVERHEATING 40
WET STEAM 40
LACK OF POWER, BUT DRY STEAM 40
CHART #6 LUBRICATION 41
EFFICIENCY REPORT 42
THE BOILER 42
STRENGTH 43
THE CONDENSER 43
TESTS OF THE WHITE STEAM PLANT 44
THE FUEL 44
THE BOILER TEST 45
THE EFFICIENCY OF THE ENTIRE PLANT 45
SUMMARY OF TESTS MADE BY PROF. C. H. BENJAMIN 45
SUMMARY 46
MISCELLANEOUS 47

1
CHAPTER I
THE WHITE CAR
All the forces controlled by man for industrial purposes are derived from three main sources. The first of
these is the muscular force of man and animals; the second is the attraction of the earth which we know as gravity;
and the third, being chemical combinations. The latter is by far the most important, as it is in this way we obtain heat
and electricity, the two greatest forces in use at the present time. Electricity must be placed second to heat, for in most
cases it is obtained by a primary use of a heat motive power. Even waterpower owes its energy originally to the heat
of the sun, which drew the water into the air and gave it its potential energy of altitude. Windmills come in the same
class, as the winds are caused by the unequal distribution of the sun's heat. The steam engine is a heat motor, and the
most extensively used of any for industrial purposes. The steam itself does not perform the work, but the heat
contained in the steam. Water vapor is the best known medium for conveying heat from its source to the place where
it is converted into useful work--namely, the engine cylinders.
History shows that the ancients knew something of steam. Two hundred years ago steam pumps of a crude
design were in use in England for lifting water out of the mines. About 1775 James Watt invented the steam engine in
the form it is most commonly known today. Watt was a genius, for the principles he laid down at that time are still
followed. The majority of improvements since have been mainly along the lines of detail, material and construction.
The same can be said in regard to the advance made in the art of manufacturing devices for generating steam. The
same principle has been adhered to, namely, of having a large volume of water exposed to more or less heating
surface and a receptacle at the top from which to remove the steam without entraining the water. The earliest boilers
carried a steam pressure of 2 lb. to the square inch. From 2 lb. pressure there has been a steady increase up to the high
pressures used in modern marine and locomotive boilers. As fast as the advance in strength of materials and improved
construction permitted the amount of pressure was raised, yet there is little difference between the first and last in
principle.
About 1899 R. H. White of Cleveland, Ohio brought out the White Steam Generator, which embodied many
new principles. This departure from the old ideas was the greatest stride in the science of steam generation since the
time of Watt, and should be noted as a distinct invention, not an improvement. To appreciate it one should compare it
with an old type boiler. Placed together, the two appear as a pygmy and a giant, although their power capacity is
exactly the same. A man of ordinary strength can easily lift the present 40 HP generator. To conclude this line of
thought the performances of this new type of steam generator have created a sensation in the engineering world.
Much credit is due the inventor for breaking away from the old ideas and giving to the industrial world of the present
something so new and efficient.
As often described in the literature issued by the White Co. this generator consists of a series of coils of
seamless steel tubing, placed one above another, and the whole surrounded by a light annular casing. The greatest
point of difference from the old type of boiler is that the water enters at the top and the steam is drawn off at the
bottom. The water is being continually forced downward by the feed pumps to replace that which passes out as steam.
The small amount of water contained insures against explosion. A boiler explosion, as commonly known, is caused
by the quick liberation of a great quantity of water, which is under high temperature and pressure. The liberation
suddenly reduces the pressure and the whole mass of water flashes into steam almost instantaneously. Such a thing is
absolutely impossible with the White generator. The nearest thing to it would be a rupture of a tube through which the
small amount of steam would escape with less noise than would occur when the safety valve "pops off."
There are 2 principal points to observe in the care of the generator. Avoid overheating and keep the water
tank clean. If the coils are allowed to run at a red heat the metal becomes soft and the pressure is apt to expand them
enough to cause rupture. (2) Mineral scales, which are the enemies of ordinary boilers, have no effect on the coils.
The circulation is too rapid. However, if the oil in the water tank is permitted to accumulate and is pumped into the
generator by allowing water to run low, much harm will result. The oil spreads itself over the inner surface, and
unless removed while still soft, will carbonize from the heat, in the course of a few days. Once carbonized, it
necessitates taking the generator apart in order to remove.
The White engine is a cross compound of the marine type. The earlier models had both valves of the D slide
type. In 1907 and 1908 they had a high pressure piston valve and a low pressure slide valve, and at the present time
both the high and low pressure have piston valves. The piston valve has the advantage of being almost perfectly
balanced, and consequently wears very little. The Joy valve gear is being used at present, taking the place of the

2
Stephenson gear, which was formerly used. Summing everything up, it is just an ordinary steam engine, with the
exception of being very compactly built of excellent material.
The splendid results achieved are due to the generator and the high degree of superheat given to the steam.
Usually a small steam plant is very extravagant of fuel and steam, sometimes using as high as 100 lb. of steam per HP
per hour. As a rule, the larger the plant the more economical. However, the figures of ll.95 lb. of steam per developed
HP per hour, which is the result of Prof. Carpenter’s tests, are superior in many cases to those shown by large
compound condensing engines and even triple expansion ones. Aside from the generator and engine the rest of the
White Car is similar to any other of standard make, with the possible exception of there being no transmission gear
box.

3
CHAPTER II
HINTS ON ECONOMY
Webster says, "Economy avoids all waste and extravagance." The popular definition of being the opposite of
expense. Such is not exactly so. It is, however, the direct opposite of needless expense. Applied to the case of the
automobile, economy means the avoiding of all the expense of up-keep which is unnecessary and which ought not
exist. A group of the necessary expense items is composed principally of the following, namely, that of tires,
depreciation and fuel.
Much has been printed on the subject of the care of tires. A tire of standard make is usually good for several
thousand miles. A great deal of tire trouble could be avoided by giving heed to a few main points in regard to their
care. One of the most important of these is that of inflation. To run a tire without its containing the proper air pressure
will greatly shorten its life. A table of proper pressures for different sizes of tires can be obtained of any first-class
manufacturer for the asking. A rough but efficient method is to inflate the tire until its walls cease to bulge and are
straight. This when only the weight of the empty car is being sustained.
Avoid unnecessary use of the brakes. The strain all comes on the fabric of the tires. For the same reason do
not turn corners at high speed. Avoid letting grease or oil come in contact with the tires. Oils and greases are natural
enemies of rubber. Too much emphasis cannot be put on the fact that many blowouts are the result of overloading the
car. A car is usually equipped with tires to carry the load for which it is designed. Any more than this, results in
overstrains on the tire fabric. Owing to the elasticity of its power, a steam car is very easy on tires in comparison with
a car of the same weight propelled by an explosive motor, and there should be no reason why a steam car owner with
a little care, should not get exceptional mileage out of his tires.
Depreciation can be divided into two classes: Theoretical and actual. Suppose a car is bought and driven five
hundred miles; at the same time receiving the best of care. In reality it is a better car than it was the day it left the
factory, for all the bearings are broken in and everything is just beginning to work "sweetly". The theoretical
depreciation amounts to something like twenty five per cent, as the car is now a "used car" and that is its status on the
market. However, it is with the actual depreciation, and how to avoid as much of it as possible, that we wish to deal.
For practical purses, a used car is just as valuable to the happy owner, regardless of its age, as a new one,
provided he gets the service out of it. To obtain this kind of service it is necessary to eliminate all sources of depre-
ciation, aside from natural wear.
Enumerated in the order of their importance, the following seven items are the source of the greatest wear
and tear on a car. Namely, lack of lubrication, abuse of the throttle, abuse of the brakes, fast driving on rough roads,
overloading, turning corners at high speeds and a lack of cleanliness. Lubrication heads the list, but as it has been
discussed in the chapter devoted to that subject, it is unnecessary to repeat.
Owing to its great amount of reserve power the steam car can be abused by an improper handling of the
throttle. If the latter is opened quickly, the amount of power, which is applied in accelerating the speed rapidly, is
enormous. It results in a great overload on engine, drive shaft and rear axle. No car, whether steam or gasoline will
stand this treatment and continue to run as well as it would if it were handled in a sane manner. The proper way to
manipulate the throttle is to open it gradually. Allow the car to get into motion before turning on any great amount of
power. It is also a good point to remember to close the throttle before applying brakes. Regarding the latter, the abuse
of the brakes is just as needless and just as injurious as that of the throttle. The steam car is particularly capable of
being driven by throttle control alone and violent application of the brakes should be reserved only for emergencies.
The habit should be acquired of shutting off the power and coasting up to the desired stopping place. How often we
see a car brought up abruptly, with all brakes squealing a protest. No sane person would think of stopping a good
horse in that manner. When on country roads and approaching a rough bridge or a corner, coast up to it when
possible, cross easily, and gradually opening the throttle, pick up the former speed. A few little habits like these will
save many a dollar in the course of a year.
There is little excuse at any time for fast driving, and none at all for fast driving over poor roads. Nothing
will rack a car to pieces sooner. When a car weighs from 2,500 to 4,000 pounds, and is driven at a high speed, where
the road is rough, the strains and stresses produced are exceedingly great. It is marvelous that some machines stand as
much as they do. Furthermore, the danger of accident from breakage’s and from losing control is no small item and
should not be overlooked.

4
The man who persists in overloading his car shows up his total ignorance of the laws of mechanics. When an
engineer designs a bridge he makes it a certain number of times stronger than is necessary to carry the greatest load it
will ever be expected to accommodate. This excess strength is termed the factor of safety. Also, when he designs an
automobile to carry, let us say, five passengers, a certain factor of safety is allowed. The bridge is safe from harm for
the reason that the normal conditions are such that it cannot be overloaded, but there is nothing to prevent an owner
from overloading his car if he wills to do so. The surest preventive of this, however, is a strong application of good
common sense.
Another money saver in regard to a car is cleanliness. An accumulation of mud, sand, dust and grease works
harm in many ways. The grit works into many places, causing wear. Into the body joints, the frame joints, the brakes,
the drive shaft, the engine and in fact all over the car. It prevents the discovery of loose bolts and nuts, which, if found
in time, might save a broken part or possibly life or limb. Sometimes an owner even finds that he is losing that respect
for his car without which he does not give it the care it deserves. All this because he has allowed it to become run
down and disreputable looking.
Summing up briefly, if an owner wishes to keep his car out of the repair shop, he should comply with the
following rules:
1. Lubricate plentifully and systematically.
2. Use judgment in handling the throttle.
3. Use the throttle much and brakes little.
4. Shun making time on rough roads.
5. Carry the cars, quota of passengers and no more.
6. Spend a little time each day in cleaning.
A still shorter summary would read like this:
"KNOW YOUR CAR".
A Few suggestions for obtaining good water- and fuel performances on the road might not be amiss. Drive at
a uniform speed, as nearly 18 to 20 miles per hour as possible. Take hills easily. It requires great excess power to
climb grades at high speed. Keep "old style" engines hooked up as much as they will stand without vibrating. The
new engines do this automatically.
Be sure brakes do net drag. To show how much power is lost by dragging brakes, let us suppose a case.
The diameter of the Model "K" wheels is 36 inches. The diameter of the brake drum is 14 inches. Suppose
the brake is dragging, so that it takes thirty-pound pull at the outer circle of the tire to slowly move the wheel when
car is jacked up. This amount has been determined by experiment and is not an unusual occurrence. Sometimes it is
even more. By the law of levers, the radius of the wheel times the pull equals the radius of the brake drum times the
resistance in the opposite direction (which is of course the drag of the brake). Then
18 times 30 equals 7x where x represents the drag.
540 equals 7x.
x equals 77.1 pounds.
Therefore, it would take 77.1 pounds pull at the rim of the brake drum to start wheel to moving, or putting it another
way, the brake offers resistance of 77.1 pounds at a distance of 7 inches from the center of revolution. Then the
horsepower absorbed can be expressed.
Horsepower equals circumference of brake drum in feet times number of revolutions per minute times
resistance in pounds divided by 33,000.
Circumference of a 14-inch circle equals 3.1416 times 14, equals 43.98 inches.
43.98 inches divided by 12 equals 3.66 feet.
To get the number of revolutions in a mile divide 5280 by the circumference of the wheel which latter is 9.42
feet. The result is 560. Thus, if we are going sixty miles per hour, the wheels will be making 560 revolutions per
minute. At thirty miles per hour, one half of which is 280 revolutions per minute, end at twenty miles per hour, one-
third of which equals l86.6 revolutions per minute. Substituting these values in our horsepower formula and using
186.6 revolutions per minute for twenty miles per hour, we have
Horsepower equals 3.66 times 188.6 times 77.1 divided by 33,000 equals 1.6 HP

5
As this is the power absorbed by one brake, the total by both 2x1.6=3.2 HP Assuming that the friction
remains the some at all speeds (which is not exactly true) the power at thirty miles per hour equals 4.8 HP, and at
sixty miles per hour equals three times that of twenty miles per hour, which gives the great figures of 9.6 HP wasted.
If the car uses l½pounds of fuel per HP hour, then in 10 hours running, at 20 miles per hour, we have used
48 pounds of fuel to overcome the drag of the two brakes. As gasoline runs about six pounds to the gallon, therefore,
48 pounds = eight gallons gasoline wasted at 20 miles per hour.
These calculations are roughly made and do not strictly conform to the laws of friction, but the results are
near enough to answer the purpose, namely, to show how surprisingly large is the amount of fuel wasted in many
cases. As the ratio of the brake drum diameter to the wheel diameter is approximately the same on all models, the
same results can be applied to al1.
Bear in mind the first sentence of this chapter:
"ECONOMY AVOIDS ALL WASTE AND EXTRAVAGANCE".

6
CHAPTER III
LUBRICATION
Lubrication is the process of introducing some substance between two moving contact surfaces in order to
preserve them from wear. If the surface of a bearing, no matter how finely finished could be viewed through a
microscope, it would have a very rough and ragged appearance. When two such surfaces are moving in different
directions, while in contact, these "tiny mountain ranges" will begin breaking each other loose from their respective
surfaces, meanwhile continually creating new ones. This process is commonly known as cutting or scoring. If we can
introduce some substance between these surfaces, which will fill all the little crevices, and hold them apart, we have a
lubricant. The use of grease and oil accomplished this end, and under proper conditions gives satisfactory results.
An article by Prof. Thos. P. Stillman, says: The generally accepted conditions of a good lubricant are as
follows:
1. Body enough to prevent the surfaces to which it is applied from coming in contact with each other.
(Viscosity).
2. Freedom from corrosive acid, either of mineral or animal origin.
3. As fluid as possible consistent with "body"
4. A minimum coefficient of Friction.
5. High flash and burning points.
6. Freedom from all materials liable to produce oxidation or gumming.
A lack of proper lubrication is one of the greatest sources of damage and depreciation with which the
automobile has to contend. Even under the best conditions, the dust and mud of the road are apt to increase the
chances for wear by working in between the bearing surfaces. The least harm, which can result from improper
lubrication, is a very rapid increase in the rate of wear. From this degree it may range on up to the point where an
entire unit of mechanism may be cut to pieces and ruined in the space of a few minutes. One cannot be too careful
about the lubrication, for it is the very life of the machine.
The benefits derived from proper lubrication are numerous. Chief of these is long life due to lack of wear.
Easy running results in economy of fuel and tires. The man who spends from 20 minutes to half an hour oiling and
inspecting his car before starting out is the one who never leaves his driving seat while one the road, except for
accidental breaks or tire trouble. One does not necessarily have to be an engineer or mechanic in order to run an
automobile successfully. A liberal use of common sense and oil will accomplish wonders along this line.
The points to be lubricated on the White car, enumerated in the order of their importance, are as follows:
First, the cylinders: Applied energy is obtained from a steam engine by means of the steam pushing a piston up and
down in a closed cylinder. This piston must fit close enough to be steam tight and at the same time be free to move up
and down. From this fact it can readily be seen that the power and economy of the engine depends upon a steam tight
joint between the moving piston and the cylinder walls. Proper cylinder lubrication helps to preserve this steam tight
fit and helps to prevent leakage past the piston by forming a film on the cylinder surface.
The conditions within the cylinders are such as to demand a constant supply of oil of a high flash test. The
supply must be regular, as the flow of steam is continually carrying it away through the exhaust. If the oil ceases to
feed even for a short time, the pistons and valves become dry almost immediately and are apt to start cutting. The
steam used in the White engine is very hot, much more so than is commonly used in other steam plants, consequently
it is necessary to use an oil which has a high test and a good body under high temperatures. It is advisable to select an
oil which is well recommended and known to be all right. Then use that oil to the exclusion of all others, for it does
not pay to experiment with oils, when the result may be a pair of badly damaged cylinders. The oil enters the
cylinders by way of the steam chest, where it lubricates the valves before reaching the pistons. The feed is made pos-
itive by means of a little plunger pump, which is located in the oil box on the dash. The pipe from this pump to the
cylinders should be inspected occasionally to see that it has no leaks. Any leak would rob the cylinders of their full
amount of lubrication and should be stopped at once. The later model cars have a handle on the oiler box, which
operates the force feed by hand. The proper time to use this is when the engine is laboring up a hill or through sand,
etc., at slow speed. When the engine is running under light load, to oil by hand is entirely unnecessary, and merely
results in wasting oil. The automatic oiler supplies a sufficient amount for all but the most extreme conditions. It
probably does even then, but many prefer to be on the safe side by using the hand oiler.

7
When first startling a cold engine it is advisable to give the hand oil pump a few strokes. The feed pipe may
have become partly empty, and as the automatic pump feeds very slowly, the engine would run some time before the
oil reached the cylinders.
On the scale of importance, the second place for lubrication is given to the engine crankcase. A quantity of
oil is contained therein, lubricating the revolving parts of the crankshaft by means of the splash principle. The
importance attached to the lubrication crankshaft bearings is due to 2 things. First, the amount of power transmitted
from the cylinders to the propeller shaft. Second, the small space within which the mechanism is enclosed. Work
produces friction and the more compact the machinery doing the work is the greater becomes one importance of good
lubrication. A good crank case oil should not be too thin, but should have body enough to lubricate well under a
heavy load and still flow through the ball races. It should have good wearing qualities and not change to a thick jelly-
like form under the beating due to the revolving parts. It is very important that it be free from acid. Corrosive action
due to the latter is very injurious to ball bearings, as it pits the balls and ball races.
The crank case oil should be changed before it is "worn out". The periods of changing, of course, depend
upon the amount of use of the car and the severity of the work it is doing. At least once a month the crankcase should
be drenched out with kerosene, which can be accomplished by putting in 2 quarts after draining out oil and running
the engine a few moments. This loosens and washes out all sediment and dirt, which may have accumulated, leaving
everything clean for the fresh oil. When the car is in use 2 extra quarts of oil each week poured directly into the
crankcase will insure against a deficit. The automatic oiler on the dash has one lead to the crankcase, which is
constantly renewing the supply, but the extra amount will prove beneficial. Better too much than not enough.
On the later models, where the crankcase is made almost absolutely oil tight, the amount of renewal can be
less, but the oil should be entirely changed more often. On these models, where the pumps are enclosed in the
crankcase, it is well to guard against water getting into the oil, by keeping the packing glands tight. Water intensifies
the action of any acid, which might be contained in the oil. If one quart of pure lard oil is mixed with 3 quarts of the
crank case oil and this mixture is used, the lard oil will help protect the bearings from any corrosive effect of water
and acid by forming a film, which coats the balls and ball races. This hold good for all models, as there is a possibility
of water in the oil on the older models. On these it can work in through the crossheads, after having escaped through
the stuffing boxes in the form of steam, hence it is advisable to keep the piston and valve stem stuffing boxes tight.
The next item on the lubrication list is the rear axle. Not only does the rear axle transmit the power
developed by the engine, but it must also carry its share of the load. Furthermore it must stand the shocks and strains
produced by the inequalities of the road. For these reasons it stands in importance as to lubrication very close to the
cylinders and crankcase.
As the pressure on the lubricant between gear teeth is very great, we need an oil which has plenty of body.
Usually the same kind of oil used in the cylinders is found to give good results. Some advocate the use of light grease
or non-fluid oil. This may serve very well, when the climate is warm, but better results will be obtained in cold
weather by using the cylinder oil. A spoonful or two of flake graphite, sprinkled in the oil, will be of benefit. Do not
get much more than this amount, as the excess may choke the bearings and prevent the oil from getting into the ball
races.
The oil should be changed about every 1,000 to 1,500 miles, depending upon the work of the car. Drain out
and drench with kerosene. When refilling do not get the level above the level plug on side of gear casing, as an excess
amount will cause oil to overflow at axle ends, where centrifugal force will throw it on the brake drums and wheels.
The two outer bearings on the rear axle receive no lubrication from the oil in the gear case, but depend upon grease,
which is supplied through grease cups. These cups will be found just inside of the brake drums. They should be kept
well filled and should be screwed up a turn or two each day. Once a week an entire cupful should be forced into the
bearing. Any first-class hard oil will do for use in all grease cups. Graphite greases give excellent results.
The drive shaft is the connecting link between the engine and rear axle. It must transmit all the power and do
this at different angles, caused by the up and down motion of the body on the springs. To compensate for this motion,
a sliding joint and universal joints are provided. The work performed by these is very severe, and they should receive
careful attention as to lubrication.
The lubricant should be hard oil or graphite grease. The later models have grease cups provided on both slip
joints and universals. On the others the grease must be forced into the pins with a grease gun, which is provided with

8
the car. On cars having slip joint square in. the engine flywheel, the plate, (held by four screws), must be removed to
apply the grease. If a smooth running car is desired, all drive shaft bearings must be kept well greased.
The work done by the front wheel bearings is usually underestimated. They receive all the shocks of the road
surface and the side strains caused by changing the direction of the car. By the leverage of the wheel from hub to tire,
this latter is sometimes very great, especially in turning corners at high speed or turning out of ruts. The front hubs are
packed with hard oil, the bearings being ball bearings. This will provide lubrication for long periods. However, it is
not wise to trust the grease for too great a length of time, as it may become dry hard from excessive wear. At least
every five thousand miles of fairly continuous use the old grease should be cleaned out and replaced with a fresh
supply. Graphite grease is especially good for front wheel bearings.
At all times when car is running, the safety of the passengers depends upon the steering gear. A steering gear,
which binds or is loose from wear, is a constant menace. Both can be prevented almost entirely by plenty of
lubrication. Without it all the pin joints wear rapidly, owing to the vibration of the front wheels.
Hard oil is used throughout. The majority of the joints are covered with leather "boots". These should be
unlaced to allow cleaning of joint and renewing of grease. Pay especial care to the steering knuckles, as the load upon
them is heavy. The grease cups on these should be screwed up every day. The steering gear housing is packed with
grease, within which works the worm and segment. A grease cup is provided for this.
A mixture of light oil and kerosene is excellent for dry springs. Pour it over the springs at night and wipe off
surplus in the morning. By lifting body of car with jacks and removing load from springs, the mixture will penetrate
better between the leaves.
The spring and shackle pins, as well as radius rod pins, are important points to lubricate. The weight of the
entire body and passenger load, as well as power plant, is suspended on these. As they are in constant motion, it is
easily seen that unless well lubricated, they will wear rapidly. The pins have a hole in their centers through which
grease can be forced with a grease gun.
The brake levers, especially the ones on the rear axle, are very much exposed to mud, water and dust. The
oiling of these is often neglected, and the result is they rust and seize. In the latter case the brakes will not release after
they have been applied. On brake bands lined with camel's hair belting or fiber, a little light oil applied will improve
their holding qualities.
Do not neglect to oil all the small pin joints. These do not need it as often as some of the other points, but
they need it at times just as much. The reverse lever and rod, the gear shifting lever and rod, brake lever, pedals,
simpling valve connections, all need oil at regular periods.
The last item does not exactly pertain to lubrication, but to a part of the oil system. This is the steam gauge
and water regulator. The pressure, which operates the water regulator, is obtained through a pipe connected to the
main steam pipe just before it reaches the throttle. A continuation of this pipe runs to the dash and terminates in the
steam gauge. Thus the water regulator and steam gauge obtain their pressure from the same source. To protect the
gauge and water regulator diaphragms and to avoid a pressure fluctuation, this line is filled with cylinder oil. By
opening the valve under the footboards and directly below the oiler, the path of the oil is changed from the cylinders
to this pressure pipe. Giving the hand pump on the oiler 20 to 30 strokes is sufficient to fill this line with oil. A
positive way is to break union where pipe connects at steam line and pump till oil drips out. Be certain that the valve
is closed before starting the engine. If steam gauge pointer vibrates it is a fair indication that the pressure pipe needs
oil.

9
CHAPTER IV
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING TEMPERATURE ON OLD REGULATION
Before any attempt is made to regulate the temperature on a White car there are several things that it is
positively necessary to do before any satisfactory results can be obtained by changing the adjustment of the
thermostat. It is necessary to be positive that all of the other automatic parts of the car are working properly. Make it a
fixed rule on both the old and new regulation never to touch the thermostat, unless you are absolutely sure that this is
true. See that the water lines are clean, namely, the screen in the water tank and the hose connecting the tank to the
pumps. Be certain that the pumps are pumping their full amount of water. This can be verified by an examination of
the checks and feeling the effect of the pumps with the hand pump plunger. Be sure that the water regulator pin valve
has a good seat and does not leak. See that the gasoline line is clear from the tank to the burner, that the wicking in the
strainer is not choked; that the vaporizer is clean, also the vaporizer nozzle.
When all these things are done, and not before, it is time to make the final adjustment on the thermostat. The
engine is allowed to run at a speed of approximately 400 to 450 RPM. The thermometer is inserted in the
thermometer well in the steam line. To be working correctly, the thermostat should open and close turning on and
shutting off the fuel quickly and cleanly. It is important that it shuts off the gasoline entirely, otherwise the slowly
drifting gases may cause backfiring. Allow the engine to run for half an hour. Read the thermometer every 3 minutes,
or at least often enough to see if there is any change in the temperature. After running a while the thermometer will
register a maximum temperature and stand there. After being positive that this point has been reached, take out the
thermostat needle valve and screw lock nuts up or down, according to whether the temperature is to be raised or
lowered. Turning the nut one turn downward towards point of needle valve raises the temperature sixty degrees, and
vice versa. The thermometer should stand at 390owhen the thermostat is set correctly. This will probably give a
temperature of 400owhen the car is running on the road. A centigrade C thermometer is customarily used. If not
possible to obtain a centigrade thermometer and a Fahrenheit is used, 735ois the correct reading. After adjusting the
thermostat while the car is standing, engine running idle on the floor, take it out on the road and test it for power. If
the pumps are working properly, and everything else is all right, including the temperature, there will be enough
power to satisfy anyone.
NEW REGULATION
In regulating the temperature on the new system, the same procedure is followed as mentioned above for the
old. Be positive about the condition of the pumps, the water regulator, the flow motor, the fuel line and the vaporizer.
Also that the thermostat needle valve does not leak water when closed. Latter is very important on account of the fact
that the regulation of the new system depends upon the water and fuel fed to the generator and burner respectively in
a certain ratio. In case the thermostat valve leaks, the ratio would be upset, as there is too much water for the amount
of fuel. As mentioned above, the adjustment of the thermostat should be the very last step when regulating the
temperature. The operation, however, is a little different in that the nuts on the needle valve are turned down to lower
the temperature instead of up. It is not good policy to try to get a temperature reading with the engine running idle.
The proper way to proceed is to run the engine idle with the thermometer in the steam line and check up the reading
of the pyrometer. After this is done it is easy to take the car out on the road and make the adjustments for temperature
at a speed of about 20 MPH. Be sure to run the car long enough to give temperature time to become fixed. It is apt to
vary when first starting out. If at any time the temperature should change suddenly while on the road do not change
the thermostat adjustment. The chances are that the vaporizer tip has a little dirt in it or that the thermostat valve is not
closing properly. Either one of these will cause an over supply of water for the amount of fuel.
DIRECTIONS FOR VALVE SETTING ON THE OLD TYPE ENGINES
1. Fix the reverse lever in a rigid position at full valve stroke "go ahead", namely, in the same position as it
would be with the reverse lever in the first notch.
2. Screw the valve stem into the valve stem guide to as nearly the proper position as possible by guess.
3. Turn the engine in the direction it runs when the car is running ahead.
4. In setting low pressure valve, turn the engine until the center punch mark on the high pressure counter-
weight is on a level with the edge of the crank case. In this position the low-pressure piston is at one end of
its stroke. Now, look at the valve and note how much it is open. The amount of opening in this position is
known as the "lead of the valve".
5. Turn the engine in the same direction until the mark on the counter-weight comes opposite the crank on the
other side. This throws the low-pressure piston at the other end of its stroke. Note how much the valve is

10
open. If it is open the same amount as it was on the other end of the stroke, the valve is set correctly. The
valve should be opened the same amount on each end when the piston is at the respective ends of its stroke.
The lead is now divided equally.
6. Tighten the lock nut on the valve stem and the process of setting the low-pressure valve is complete. To set
the high pressure, the same method is followed, using the low-pressure counter-weight to find the dead
center for the high-pressure piston. Usually the lead is between one thirty-second and one sixteenth of an
inch. This method is an approximate one, used by road repairmen, but is sufficiently accurate for all practical
purposes.
DIRECTIONS FOR VALVE SETTING ON THE NEW TYPE ENGINES
1. Have the valve stem screwed down as nearly the proper position as possible. The valve on the new type of
engine is an inside admission valve. The steam edge of the valve is on the inside and not at the end, as on the
older type engines. Therefore, the valve setting will be done by inside edges. The position of the valves can
be seen through holes in which the cylinder cocks are placed. These latter must be removed. Begin turning
the crankshaft slowly in a forward direction, at the same time rocking the reverse rocker arm on the engine
back and forth. At some point of the revolution of the crankshaft the valve stem will cease to move up and
down, while the reverse rocker arm is being moved back and forth. At this point the piston is at the end of its
stroke, and valve should be opened the amount of the lead. The same method of dividing the lead equally is
followed as in the older style engine. The principal differences are the method of finding the dead center of
the engine and the fact that the steam edges of the valve are on the inside. It is worth the trouble after having
tightened the lock nuts on the valve stem, to repeat the whole operation, and check the work done.
Occasionally in tightening the lock nut the valve stem is turned a little, causing the valve setting to be
slightly inaccurate.
DIRECTIONS FOR SETTING PISTON
In setting the pistons back in the cylinders, after having removed them, a certain position is necessary. The
figures given below represent the distance from the machined upper face of the cylinder to the piston head, the
crosshead being at the upper extremity of its stroke. This distance is termed by White mechanics "the piston
clearance," a term which is not exactly correct, however, as the true clearance would be between the piston head and
the cylinder head. The "Clearance" on the Models C and D is as follows: High-pressure, one-half inch; low-pressure,
seven-sixteenths. On Models E, F, H, and L, high-pressure, seven-sixteenths; low-pressure, three-eighths, On Models
G and K, high-pressure, eleven-sixteenths; low-pressure, five-eighths. On Model M and MM, high-pressure, seven-
eighths; low-pressure, seven-eighths. On Models O and OO, high-pressure, thirteen-sixteenths; low-pressure, thirteen-
sixteenths. After screwing the piston down to the proper Position, be sure that the lock nut is tightened snugly and that
the lock washer is turned up around the nut. If this nut loosens up there is enough motion in the threads to cause a
pound when the engine is pulling.
DIRECTIONS FOR PACKING STUFFING BOXES
A leaky stuffing box is a good indication of a careless and inefficient driver. When stuffing boxes are packed
properly, the packing should be cut in lengths to make a closed ring around the piston rod. This was the method of
earlier days. Packing can now be procured put up in rings ready to go into the stuffing box. It is a good point to
lubricate the packing with oil and graphite when putting it in. Push as many pieces of the packing into the stuffing
box as can be gotten in with the fingers, taking care that the joint in one ring is on the opposite side of piston rod from
the joint in the ring which is just above it. When the box is filled, the packing nut should be screwed up as far as
possible. Then remove same and insert more packing, each time screwing up the nut and compressing the packing
already in place. A common mistake is in having the last ring of packing loose enough at the end to catch under the
gland. In this case the gland appears to be tight, but does not compress the packing, and a steam leak is sure to follow,
no matter how tightly the nut is screwed up. The causes for leaking stuffing boxes will be taken up under the proper
head in connection with the charts.
TO DRAIN THE CAR FOR STORAGE OR SHIPPING
In order to properly drain the water from the car when getting it ready for storage or for shipment in cold
weather, it should be done while the car is hot.
1. Run the engine long enough to get the car heated fairly up to its maximum temperature, approximately half
an hour, with condenser drain cock open.

11
2. When car is thoroughly warmed up, shut off the fire a moment and let the pumps force a little extra water
into the generator. Stop engine.
3. Disconnect union on suction hose, which connects the tank with the pumps, and allow water to run from
water tank. Disconnect union on the main water line at the hand water pump.
4. Remove plug from bottom of flow motor or in the later models, where there is no plug, disconnect line to the
thermostat by loosening union where it enters side of flow motor. Run engine a moment to give the pumps a
chance to force all water out of water line.
5. With engine running slowly, turn on independent fuel valve, allowing steam pressure to rise almost to the
blowing-off point.
6. With fuel valve still open, and while engine is running slowly, open blow-off valve on the left side of the car
(commonly known as the water end blow-off). Just previous to opening this valve, partly open the steam
blow-off valve.
7. While the steam pressure is dropping, and the engine is dying for lack of pressure, pump oil into the cylinder
rapidly (a pint will not be too much). The internal heat cylinders will vaporize the oil, causing it to penetrate
all nooks and corners, spreading a film over all the parts and insuring against rust. Open valve under
footboard and pump the water regulator lines full of oil until it drips from the steam blow-off. Give the hand
pump two or three strokes to force water from the line, between hand pump and water blow-off. On cars
having water heater, loosen unions at inlet and outlet, allowing any water contained therein to run out.
Loosen all check caps and see that check balls trap no water. On later models, where the water regulator is in
a position with the discharge pipe opening upward, the regulator should be removed and water allowed to run
out.
If these instructions are followed, the heat retained in the generator, the piping and the cylinders will
evaporate any small amount of water left, leaving the car perfectly dry and absolutely free from danger occasioned by
low temperature.
These instructions also hold good for cars with the old regulation, by leaving out any mention of the flow
motor or the feed water heater. If the car is to be laid up for some months and the packing in the pumps has seen long
service, it would be advisable to remove same to prevent corrosion of the pump plungers. If the proper amount of oil
has been pumped into the engine, there is little danger of any corrosion of the valve stems and piston rods, but it
would do no harm to remove packing from their stuffing boxes. Some owners, of careful engineering experience,
believe in removing cylinder heads and steam chest cover and smearing all surfaces with a liberal coating of Vaseline.
Be certain that no water is allowed to remain in the crankcase. To clean same thoroughly, drain out old oil
before steam is blown off. Put in half a gallon of kerosene and run engine a few minutes. Drain this thoroughly and
put in fresh oil. Then proceed as in item No. 2. This fresh oil can be allowed to remain. The same thing can be
followed out on the rear axle gear case.

12
CHAPTER V
MISCELLANEOUS SUGGESTIONS
Avoid racing engine when steaming up car. The steam pressure rises no faster by so doing.
Run engine slowly, with simpling pedal pressed down, until all water is out of cylinders. This will save many
connecting rods and cylinder heads.
To loosen stubborn steam line unions hold a heavy hammer squarely against one face and tap the opposite
side with a light hammer. Repeat this for all faces. Apply kerosene frequently. The worst cases can be loosened this
way until they will turn with an ordinary wrench.
A good prevention for tight steam line unions is an application of a mixture of graphite and oil. Apply same
when putting union together. Do not leave flakes of graphite on the ground faces as they may cause the joint to leak.
To locate a leak in the air system, make a thick soap suds and apply with a brush. Any leak will create a mass
of bubbles.
If vaporizer screws loosen easily, but refuse to come out, do not attempt to force them. Saturate with
kerosene and twist back and forth a few times. Presently they will remove easily. The accumulation of carbon on the
end threads inside causes them to bind. The kerosene loosens this and permits the screw to turn outward.
Keep engine simpled when maneuvering in close quarters. It handles better. Also remember to close throttle
an instant before applying brakes.
Make it a habit to steer with the left hand and handle the throttle with the right. Practice opening and closing
the latter with a wrist movement. Much closer results can be obtained than by pulling on the wheel.
If gears bind and refuse to shift after stopping car, it is caused by steam trapped in the steam chest. Throw
reverse lever to reverse, and then to center position. This relieves the twisting strain on the driving shaft and gears
will slip out of mesh easily. There is no occasion for applying force to gear lever.
Open steam blow-off valve before turning on fuel when steaming up a cold car. The pressure rises very
rapidly with a generator full of cold water and may rise excessively before the valve can be opened. The latter is
especially true in case the valve sticks and refuses to open readily.
In steaming up be sure vaporizer is sufficiently heated before turning on fuel, and avoid a backfire. Usually
when vaporizer outlet pipe is hot to the touch just outside the generator casing, the vaporizer proper is heated enough
to turn on the fuel. Open and close the feed valve at intervals of three to five seconds until dry gas is coming from
vaporizer nozzle.
To loosen brass union nuts, apply a wrench and jar same with the hand. They loosen much easier this way
than by a steady pull. In putting same together, there is no necessity for great tightness as all joints are ground to a fit.
Avoid putting strains on piping and unions without holding in the opposite direction with an extra wrench.
Soap is a good emergency packing for gasoline joints.
Change any rubber hose as soon as it becomes soft and flabby. Pay no attention to water, as to whether it is
hard or soft, but allow no water containing sand or mud to be used. Sand will pit the pump checks and cut the walls of
the flow motor cylinder.
Keep brakes in good condition. The time comes to every one, sooner or later, when they will need a good set
of brakes badly.
Form the habit of filling the water tank each morning, even though it takes only a gallon or so.

13
Blow off generator twice a week from left side. By closing valve before the steam has quite all escaped, the
generator will refill itself with water. This is due to the fact that as the enclosed steam is condensed it forms a
vacuum. The pressure of the atmosphere forces water from the tank to fill the space formerly occupied by the steam.
If car refuses to start when throttle is opened slightly, do not open it farther. Close it immediately and
investigate. It will probably be found that the simpling pedal is not pushed entirely down, the emergency brake is on,
or the reverse lever is in the center notch. Observance of this point may save a set of cylinder heads,
If the water regulator screen clogs frequently with lint, it is evidence that the water pump packing is old and
rotten, or that a rough spot on the pump plunger is tearing grooves in the same.
Do not allow the steam line from the generator to the engine to become bare and exposed to the air. It allows
considerable heat from the steam to escape and consequently is a source of fuel waste.
After replacing a bolt and nut, immediately put in the cotter key and spread it. Serious accidents might result
from a missing cotter key.
If a loose bolt is discovered, tighten it at once. Loose parts wear rapidly.
On the "new style" engines do not tighten valve stem stuffing boxes any tighter than necessary to hold the
steam. There is little pressure on them, and any extra tightness simply places an additional load on the valve gear.
Know that your lighting plant is in good condition. You may be far from home when overtaken by night and
darkness. It is unpleasant to drive without being able to see the road.
If a heavy wind is blowing, if possible, leave the car standing facing the wind. Sometimes a gust of wind
may whip in from the back and extinguish the pilot light. For the same reason carry the pilot turned higher on a windy
day.
If the pilot light goes out while running, close fuel valve and run a short distance before relighting. This
gives time for all unconsumed gas to escape. Have match lighted and in place before flushing a hot pilot light. This
avoids an accumulation of gas.
In applying emergency brake, do not allow brake dog to slip into each notch as lever moves forward. Grasp
the lever, lift the dog, and move forward as far as it will go and release. Sliding the dog over the notches soon wears it
until it will not hold.
A little kerosene poured into water tank while the water is hot greatly assists in flushing off the oil.
After car has been standing at curb for some time, turn on fuel slowly at first. The same condition exists as
when firing up. When leaving car at curb, throw gear lever in neutral position, close fuel valve and apply brake.
Know for certain that the pilot light is extinguished before refilling with fuel. This applies more strongly to
gasoline. Kerosene is not so easily ignited.
Never clamp a flow motor or pump in a vise. The pressure will distort the barrel of the former and check
seats in the latter.
Do not put a wrench on any fuel line unions with pilot light burning, unless positive that all feed valves are
closed.
Be courteous to those you meet on the road. It costs you nothing, and occasions arise when its results might
prove invaluable. Beware of loose sand, soft gravel and wet pavements. Once experienced, the sensation of losing
control of the car is never forgotten.
Eighty per cent of the recorded accidents are the result of carelessness and taking chances. Slow down and
look both ways at a railroad crossing. The death notices in the daily papers emphasize this point.

14
Do not shoot over the tip of a hill at full speed. Some one else may be doing the same thing in the opposite direction.
The same applies to curves where you cannot see the road ahead.
If your car is running well do not tinker, "tinkeritis" is a disease, the only cure for which is a few good-sized
repair bills.

15
CHAPTER VI
CHART # 1
NEW REGULATION WITH FLOWMOTOR CONTROL
Adjustment too high
Thermostat
Element
Bent
Binding in stuffing box
Flow motor
Worn lap fit on fuel valve stem
Fuel stem not screwed into piston rod sufficiently
Packing glands too tight
Piston binding
Weak, short or broken spring
Vaporizer nozzle too large
Water Regulator
Dirty screen
Insufficient lift of pin valve
Checks
Flow motor check leaking Hand pump checks leaking
OVERHEATING
Water Cushion
Sprig broken - Piston Binding
Adjustment too low
Thermostat
Water valve
Weak spring
Short spring
Tight stuffing box
Seat leaking
Seat out of alignment
Flowmotor
Piston binding
Water passing piston.
Nozzle tip clogged
Carbonized vaporizer
Choked supply
Dirty strainer
Valves not open enough
Vaporizer nozzle too small
WET STEAM
Fuel ratio
20 HP fuel valve on 30 HP car
Water leak on feed line
Leaking flowmotor bypass valve
Leaking water regulator
Rough pin or seat
Pin wedging
Screen wedging
Clogged Generator
Suction line
Porous hose
Flabby hose
Dirty strainer
Cracked diaphragm
Insufficient throttle opening
Leaky stuffing boxes
NO POWER
Dry Steam
Pumps
Faulty checks
(Pitted balls
(Flat balls
(Loose seals
(Too much lift
Thermo valve
Weak spring
Tight packing
Needle binding on seat
Boiler check leaking
Speed constant
Thermo element
Slightly bent
Tight stuffing box
VARYING HEAT
Speed varying
Flow motor adjustment
Leaky thermo valve.
Thermo valve loose (lock nut)
Dirty generator

16
CHART # 1 (continued)
When fire comes on
Crack in burner grate
Turning on fuel too fast when cold
Pilot too low. Dirty pilot
No lagging on burner
Too much air in mixing tube
either
split vaporizer
slow gas leak
Red hot coils (overheating)
Fire on continuously (wet steam)
Vaporizer nozzle out of center
Insufficient air
Foreign object lying on burner grate
Dirt Asbestos
Vaporizer out of hole
BACKFIRING
When fire Shuts of
Dragging fire
Vaporizer nozzle large
Shutter closed
Nozzle in too far
Constant
Pilot light low or dirty
Flaw in vaporizer
Vaporizer nozzle not central
Vaporizer nozzle too large
Mud in mixing tube
Insufficient air
Carbon in vaporizer nozzle tip
Vaporizer nozzle tip not screwed tight
HOWLING
Intermittent
Thermostat
Element bent - Needle valve tight
Element binding - Spring weak
Water regulator
Screen clogged
Insufficient valve lift
Pin wedging-screen binding
FIRE REFUSES
to
CLOSE OFF
Flowmotor
Fuel stem packing too tight
Fuel stem bent or broken
Broken spring
Fuel seat leaking.
Hand valve leaking
Pumps faulty
Dry steam
Water regulator Flowmotor bypass
Valve not closing
Dirt on seat
Leaking seat
NO FIRE
without
RACING ENGINE
Wet Steam
Thermostat not closing
Thermostat set too low
Thermostat leaking at seat