Action MONMOUTH MONKEY User manual

Technical Information:
Number of people required for assembly: 2 to include a good handyman
Guide time for assembly: approx 6-8 hours for the full unit
The Monmouth Monkey needs 3 bags of instant mix concrete (post-Crete) or similar allowing 1/2
bag per hole. (available from most hardware shops or builders merchants)
NOTE: USE THE DRILL BIT PROVIDED TO PRE-DRILL ALL THE SCREW HOLES TO AVOID SPLITTING THE
TIMBER. You may want to use a countersink drill bit to give the screw holes a superior finish
Your climbing frame can be stored outside until you are ready to assemble the unit, we recommend
storing it near the place you are looking to build it.
To allow trapped moisture to evaporate cut back the shrink wrap packaging but be careful not to
lose any parts. Slight cracks may appear in the wood at any time after delivery, this is due to the
natural working of the wood and is normal. If moisture is trapped under the plastic you will
sometimes find mould spots present, this will wipe away and have no long term effects.
Contents: Packs Required:
1) Construct the Tower JE2152/1
JE2152/2
JE2152/3
2) Attach the Commando Net JE2153
3) Attach the Climbing Wall JE2154
4) Attach the Slide JE2515
5) Attach the Monkey Bars JE2805
JE2806
6) Attach the Swing Seat (boxed)
NB: Cracking will not affect the tower's structural stability. Surfaces of the wood have been planed
but you may find small splinters around drill holes which can easily be sanded away.

Contents:

Where to start:
Firstly dig the holes for the tower:
It is now time to dig the holes, for the uprights of your tower to stand in. Lay your platform base on the ground
at your chosen position. Using a spirit level find the highest corner, this will be your first hole. If the difference
in height between one side of the platform and the other is greater than 75mm you should level off the
ground or consider putting your climbing frame in a more level place. Mark the four platform corners to note
where the uprights need to be dug then put the platform nearby. Take a 50mm slice of lawn and put to one
side for return later. Dig the first hole to 300mm deep and about 300mm square. NOTE: pile your soil onto a
piece of plastic sheet to minimise clearing up afterwards. Move onto digging the next hole - use the tip below
to get the bottoms of the holes level. Once you have dug the four corner holes, then dig the final hole for the
front central upright in the same way.
TIP: Digging all the holes to be level involves a simple trick using two (equal) balustrade pieces and your spirit
level. Stand one balustrade piece upright in your first (measured) hole and the second piece upright in your
next hole. Place your spirit level on top of these two pieces. Adjust the depth of the second hole either by
further digging or adding back some soil until your spirit level reads correctly (if your spirit level is too short to
reach across the gap use a longer straight piece of wood and sit your level on this). Once this hole is level do
the same thing to dig out the other holes. Always use the first hole as the reference point. When finished NO
hole should be less than 300mm deep, if it is your ground is to steep and you need to level off the platform
area. The reason for this is that your slide needs to be on a platform 1.5m (or 1.2m with some models) above
the ground. If the height is more or less than this it creates stress on the slide platform mount and in severe
cases can lead to fracture of the slide at this point, a failure NOT covered by warranty.

Building the Tower:
Fix the floor (part D) to the corner uprights (part A) using bolts, washers and nuts (parts 1, 2 and 3).
Then fix the additional uprights (parts B and C) in position again using bolts, washers and nuts (parts

1, 2 ad 3. Building your tower is best accomplished lying on its side. Lay out the four uprights in pairs
with their ends close to the holes you have prepared. Align the platform in the same direction as the
slide will end up when you have finished, this then orients the uprights and their bolt-holes. The
platform bolts (1) pass through the holes closest to the ground, the holes slightly higher up are for
mounting accessories. Stand the platform uprights and bolt the platform to the two uprights lying on
the ground. Repeat with the other two uprights with one end resting on the ground and the other
ends pointing towards the sky. Tighten your bolts firmly but at this stage do not overdo the
tightness.
Use the bit provided to pre-drill all screw holes to avoid splitting the timber. It will speed progress if
you pre-drill all your timbers before you start building.
Attaching the Balustrades:
Attach the two outside left & right balustrade rails (part H) to the top rail and bottom rail (parts F)
first following the measurements in the diagram above. Use on one screw (4x40mm) at each end for
now. Then check for squareness to do this, measure the diagonal distance from top left to bottom
right of the outer balustrade rails. This should measure the same as the diagonal distance from the
bottom left to top right. If not adjust the frame to make both measurements the same. Now fit the
other two screws in the part H's already fixed. You may now proceed and fix all remaining part H's.

Attach the two outside left & right balustrade rails (part H) to the top rail (part E) and bottom rail
(part G) first following the measurements in the diagram above. Use only one screw (4x40mm) at
each end for now. Then check for squareness. To do this measure the diagonal distance from top left
to bottom right of the outer balustrade rails. This should measure the same as the diagonal distance
from the bottom left to top right. If not adjust the frame to make both measurements the same.
Now fit the other two screws in the part H's already fixed. You may now proceed and fix all
remaining part H's. Repeat this to build a second set of balustrades as a mirror image of the first.
You will notice in the drawings the screws are diagonally off-set. The purpose of this is to reduce
splits and create a stronger fixing by not having screws running in line along the grain of the wood.
To generate a neat appearance try to drill in the same place on each piece. Pre-build your
balustrades on the ground as squarely as possible rather than trying to build them on the tower
frames.

Before attaching the balustrades you must decide on your final layout of the attachments. Then with
the tower still lying on the ground, attach balustrades to the sides of the platform you want to close
off using 5x60mm screws. Attach the further support rail Part F to line up with the balustrade
support rails.

Attaching Commando Net:

Attach the top rail (part A) to the two uprights of the tower (X), using 2 x m10x110mm bolts,
washers and nuts. Tie the commando net to the top rail , making sure the gap between the top rung
of the net and the rail is less than 90mm. Use a double knot on each rope to give extra strength.
Now fit the bottom rail (part B) with 4x60mm screws. When fitting the lower commando net rail
(part B) first remove the bottom sandpit side if fitted. Lay the beam in its correct position , mark with
a spade and dig out a shallow trench. Lay the beam into this trench and screw firmly in place. Any
gaps under the beam should be re-filled with soil or sand and pack firmly, but before doing so attach
your commando net, again using a double knot.

Attaching the Slide:
Attach the slide to the platform using 2 4x25mm
screws. Attach the slide to the front of the platform
with the platform flooring at right angles to the
direction of the slide. Leave gaps of an equal distance
either side of the slide between the slide and the
tower uprights.

Attaching the Monkey Bars:

You should now have completed your Monmouth Monkey Climbing Frame. It is now time to check
all screws and bolts to ensure they are fully tightened. Also check that all platforms are level and all
posts are upright. Ensure the two towers line up with each other. Once you are fully happy with the
above, it is time to concrete (Post-Crete) the uprights and the bottom of Monkey Bars. When the
concrete has gone off (set) you can replace the 50mm of grass that was removed at the start of
construction. If you use concrete, at least 24 hours must pass before anyone uses the climbing
frame. Post-Crete sets faster so you may use the climbing frame in most cases within an hour.
WARNING:
This climbing frame is for family domestic use only. It s designed for outdoor use by children aged 3-
12 years. The climbing frame should be sited on level ground at least 2m away from any structure or
obstruction such as a fence, house, garage, washing line, tree branches or electrical wires.
The climbing frame should not be sited over a hard surface such as concrete asphalt or similar hard
surface. Lawn or bark chippings are perfectly acceptable as suitable play surfaces.
MAINTENANCE:
Your climbing frame is made from wood, which is a natural product. As such it can be affected by
changes in the weather and moisture in the air. All main parts (swing beam, tower uprights, tower
platform and load bearing timbers) should be checked regularly and maintained to avoid the
structure becoming hazardous. We strongly recommend that all fixings (screws, nuts and bolts) are
checked regularly and tightened as required and at the end of winter all ropes, nuts and bolts should
be checked for tightness, decay and general condition. If in any doubt, replace these items at once.
You should view ropes in the same light as a car tyre in that they are subject to wear and tear. They
should be replaced when after inspection you believe they have reached the end of their useful life.
This product meets & exceeds British & European Safety & Toy Standards BS5665/EN71
Keep these instructions for future reference.
Garden Games Ltd
Holly House, Pinewoods Road, Longworth, Oxon, OX13 5HG
Tel: [phone] Fax:[phone]