AJS 350 1954 User manual

MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
INSTRUCTION
BOOK
AND
for
1954
350 c.c. and 500 c.c.
A•J
SPRING FRAME AND RIGID
SINGLE CILINDER MODELS
PRICE 2/6 NETT
A J•S
M O T O R C Y C L E S
Proprietors: ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLE LIMITED
PLUMSTEAD • LONDON • S.E.18
EDITION CM-27
•
•S

2

1954 A•J•S MODELS
350 MODEL 16M RIGID FRAME (TOURING)
350 MODEL 16MS SPRING FRAME (TOURING)
350 MODEL 16MC RIGID FRAME (COMPETITION)
350 MODEL 16MCS SPRING FRAME (COMPETITION)
500 MODEL 18 RIGID FRAME (TOURING)
500 MODEL 18S SPRING FRAME (TOURING)
500 MODEL 18C RIGID FRAME (COMPETITION)
500 MODEL 18CS SPRING FRAME (COMPETITION)
350 — Bore 69 mm. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 347 c.c.
500 Bore 82.5 mm. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 498 c.c
INTRODUCTION
B—A.S.
Motorcycling is one of the most economical and pleasurable modes of
transport. It is our sincere wish that every " A • J • S " owner
should obtain, from his mount, the service, comfort and innumerable miles
of low-cost travel that we have earnestly endeavoured to build into it.
However, it must be remembered that, although a motor cycle is of simple
design and construction, it is, nevertheless, a highly specialised piece of
engineering. In consequence, it must be intelligently and efficiently
maintained in order to provide unfailing reliability.
In this book are non-technical instructions for carrying out all the mainten-
ance operations likely to be called for in strenuous service and illustrations
are provided to assist. Neglect to make essential adjustments, only casual
attention to lubrication and the lack of periodical maintenance attention
will soon neutralise the best efforts of the designers and may bring needless
trouble to the owner.
We are always pleased to give " A • J • S " owners the full benefit
of our wide experience in matters relating to motor cycles of our manu-
facture and elsewhere will be found details of the particulars that should
be given us when making such an enquiry.
A • J • S MO TO R CYCLES
—
3

DATA
Identity
Engine Number Stamped on left hand side of crankcase
Frame Number Stamped on seat lug of main frame, on right hand side (below the saddle)
Bore 350 c.c. Models—2·7187 in. (2Fin.)
500 c.c. Models—3·250 in. (3¼ in.)
Stroke All Models—93 mm. (approx.) (3·65625 in.)
Engine capacity, in cubic centimetres 350 Models—54/16M, 54/16MS, 54/16MC and 54/16MCS—347
500 Models—54/18, 54/18S, 54/18C and 54/18CS—458
Capacities
Location
Engine 350 c.c.
Engine 500 c.c.
Gear box
front fork (each side)
Rear leg (each leg)*
Rear wheel fork hinge bearing*
Fuel tank (Rigid and Spring frame) 350 c.c.
Fuel tank (Rigid and Spring frame) 500 c.c
Fuel tank (Competition)
Oil tank (to top level mark)
British
21·170 cub. in.
30·380 cub. in.
1 pint
6½ fl. ozs.
3 fl. ozs.
1½ fl. oat.
3 gallons
3¾gallons
2¼gallons
4½pints
Metric
347 c.c.
498 c.c.
568·2 c.c.
184·6 c.c.
85 c.c.
42·6 c.c.
13·638 litres
17·04 litres
10·2285 litres
2·557litres
*On Spring Frame Models only.
Carburetter
Type
Mainjetsize(noairfilterfitted)
Main jet size (air filter fitted)
Throttle valve size
Jet taper needle position
Jet taper needle position (air filter fitted)
350
76AV/IED
150
130
6/4
3rd notch
from top
2nd notch
from top
500
89N/IED
180
160
29/4
2nd notch
from top
2nd notch
from top
Compression ratios
Model
350
500
Normal
ratio
6·53 to 1
6·26 to 1
High
ratio
According to piston.
See Spares List for
ratios available.
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4

Gear box ratios
Model
Touring
Competition (Rigid)
Competition (Spring)
First gear
2·65 to 1
3·11 to 1
2·65 to 1
Second gear
1·70 to
1
1·02 to 1
1·70 to
1
Third gear
1·308to1
1·422 to 1
1·308 to 1
Fourth gear (top)
1 to 1
1 to 1
1 to 1
Gear ratios, Touring (Rigid and Spring Frame) and Spring Frame Competition
Models
Engine sprocket size
15 teeth
(c) 16 teeth
17 teeth
(a) 18 teeth
19 teeth
20 teeth
(b) 21 teeth
First gear
18·55to 1
17·32 to 1
16·32 to 1
15·44 to 1
14·55 to 1
13·91 to 1
13·25 to 1
Second gear
11·90 to 1
11·15 to 1
10·47 to 1
9·90 to 1
9·33 to 1
8·91 to 1
8·50 to 1
Third gear
9·15 to 1
8·58 to 1
8·05 to 1
7·63 to 1
7·18 to
1
6·86 to 1
6·54 to 1
Fourth gear
(top)
7 to 1
6·56 to 1
6·16 to 1
5·83 to 1
5·49 to 1
5·25 to 1
5·0 to 1
(a) Standard for 350 c.c. Touring Models and 500 c.c. Spring Frame Competition Models.
(b) Standard for 500 c.c. Touring Models.
(c) Standard for 350 c.c. Spring Frame Competition Models.
Gear ratios, Competition Rigid Frame Models
Engine sprocket size
15 teeth
(a) 16 teeth
17 teeth
(b) 18 teeth
19 teeth
20 teeth
21 teeth
First gear
21·77 to 1
20·40 to 1
19·56 to 1
18·13 to
1
17·07 to 1
16·33 to 1
15·55 to 1
Second gear
14·14 to
1
13·25 to 1
12·44 to 1
11·78 to
1
11·09 to 1
10·60 to 1
10·09 to 1
Third gear
10·37 to 1
9·72 to 1
9·13 to
1
8·64 to 1
8·14 to 1
7·78 to 1
7·41 to 1
Fourth gear
(top)
7 to 1
6·56 to 1
6·16 to
1
5·83 to 1
5·49 to 1
5·25 to 1
5·0 to 1
(a) Standard for 350 c.c. Models.
(b) Standard for 500 c.c. Models.
Ignition (magneto)
Model
Touring 350 c.c.
Touring 500 c.c.
All Competition
Make
Lucas
Lucas
Lucas
Type
N1-4
SR-1
NR-1
Rotation
Anti-clock
Anti-clock
Anti-clock
Point gap
·012 in.
·012 in.
·012 in.
Ignition point before top
dead centre (with control
in fully advanced position)
Normal 37° (v") Max. ½"
Normal 37° (v") Max. ½"
Normal 37° (v") Max. ½"
Lighting (bulbs)
Location
Head lamp (Pre-focus)
Pilot lamps
Rear lamp...
Speedometer
Type
Double filament
Single contact
Doublefilament
Single contact
Voltage
6
6
6
6
Wattage
30 x 24
3
18 & 3
1·8
Part
number
312
988
352
53205
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5

Oversize parts
The following are the only " oversize " variations provided for the 350 and 500 c.c. Single Cylinder machines.
Big-end rollers :
·001 in. oversize
Cylinder re-bore :
·020 in. and ·040 in. oversize
Pistons and rings :
·020 in. and ·040 in. oversize
Pistons (standard size)
Model
350
500
Top of skirt diameter
2·7176 in.
3·2490 in.
Front to rear clearance
·001 in.
·001 in.
Part number
013504
013505
All above measurements are subject to a toleration limit of + or — ·0005 in.
Piston rings
Piston ring gap—Normal
Permissible maximum
Piston ring clearance in groove
·006 in.
·030 in.
·002 in.
Sparking Plug
Model
All
Make
K.L.G.
Type
FE80 Thread
14 mm.
Reach
¾ in.
Point gap
·015 to
·018 in.
Valve timing (with ·014 inch rocker clearance) Standard cams
INLET VALVE EXHAUST VALVE
Opens before T.D.C.
Closes after B.D.C.
350 c.c. 36°
350
c.c. 51°
500 c.c. 18°
500 c.c. 69°
Opens before B.D.C.
Closes after T.D.C.
350 c.c. 50°
350 c.c. 30°
500
c.c. 50°
500 c.c. 30°
Taken with valve ·001" off its seat.
Valve Guide Projection (Top of Guide to Boss)
Inlet—½"
Exhaust—½"
Valve timing pinion
Retained by nut, threaded vin. by 26 threads per in. Left hand thread Part number 000221.
Weight
Weight of machine with empty tanks
Model
350
500
Standard
Rigid frame
344 lbs.
353 lbs.
Spring frame
375 lbs.
386 lbs.
Competition
Rigid frame
300 lbs.
303 lbs.
Wheels (bearing end play)
Bearing and play ·002 in. (just a perceptible rim rock).
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6

CONTROLS
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(10)
(11)
(12)
(13)
(14)
(15)
(16)
(17)
Throttle twist grip. On right handlebar. Twist Inwards to open. When
fully closed engine should just idle when hot.
Air lever. Small lever on right handlebar Pull Inwards to Increase air supply
to carburetter. Once set, when engine has warmed up, requires no alteration
for different road speeds. Should be fully closed when starting engine from cold,
Ignition lever. When fitted. Small lever on left handlebar. Advances and
retards ignition point. Pull Inwards to retard. Retard two-fifths of total
movement for starting.
Valve lifter lever. Small lever close to clutch lever. Lifts exhaust valve from
seat, releasing compression In combustion chamber, enabling engine to be easily
rotated for starting. Also used for stopping engine if throttle stop is set as
advised above.
Clutch lever. Large lever on left handlebar. Grip to release clutch so that
drive to rear wheel is disconnected.
Front brake lever. Large lever on right handlebar. Grip to operate front
wheel brake and, for normal braking, use in conjunction with rear brake application.
Rear brake lever. Pedal close to left side foot rest. Depress with left foot to
apply rear brake. Apply gently and use increasing pressure as the road speed
decreases.
Gear change lever. Pedal in horizontal position close to right foot rest. Con-
trols selection of the four speeds, or ratios, between engine and rear wheel
revolutions, with a " free," or neutral, position. See Illustration 2.
Kick-starter lever. Vertical pedal on right hand side of gear box.
Lighting switch, in top of head lamp. Controls lamps by a rotating lever which
has three positions :
(1) " O F F " Lamps not on.
(2) " L " Pilot lamps, rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.
(3) " H " Main head lamp, rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.
Ammeter. In top of head lamp. Indicates flow of electric current, in, or out,
of battery. (" Charge " or " Discharge.")
Horn switch. Press switch on right handlebar.
Gear box filler cap. Located on top edge of kick-starter case cover. Allows
Insertion of lubricant and access to clutch inner wire and internal clutch operating
lever.
Footrest for rider.
Petrol tank filler cap. Located in top of fuel tank. To release, slightly depress,
turn fully to the left, and then lift away. There are two locking positions. The
middle position, between the fully tightened down and " lift away " positions,
is in the nature of a " safety " device to prevent toss that might be occasioned by
unauthorised meddling.
Oil tank filler cap. Located on top edge of oil tank. The construction and
operation is exactly as the petrol tank filler cap.
Dipping switch. Trigger switch on left handlebar. Used to select normal or
" dipped " beam of head lamp when main lighting switch lever is in the " H "
position. (The main head lamp bulb has two filaments.)
C—A.S.
7

If any adjustment is made to the rear brake pedal make certain the brake does not bind
and also see there is not excessive free pedal movement before the brake comes "on."
Before using the machine, sit on the saddle and become familiar with the position and
operation of the various controls. Pay particular attention to the gear positions.
Illustration 1
Showing Controls
TOTAL MILEAGE
MILES PER HOUR
TRIP MILEAGE
REMOVE TO ADD
HYDRAULlC FLUID
CLUTCH LEVER
IGNITION CONTROL
VALVE LIFTER LEVER
DUMMY GRIP
DIPPING SWITCH
REAR BRAKE LEVER
RlDER'S FOOTREST
PlLLION FOOTREST
TANDEM
SEAT
AMMETER
LIGHTING SWITCH
REMOVE TO ADD
HYDRAULIC FLUID
KNOB TO RESET TRlP
RECORDER
FRONT BRAKE LEVER
THROTTLE TWIST
GRIP
HORN SWITCH
AIR CONTROL
GEAR CHANGE LEVER
GEAR INDICATOR DI5C
RIDER'S FOOTREST
GEAR BOX
FILLER CAP
KICK-STARTERLEVER
OIL TANK
FILLER CAP
PlLLION FOOTREST
PETROL TANK
FILLER CAP
8

DRIVING
FUEL
Now that pre-war quality fuels are again available owners are advised to use only the
best. The small economy that might be considered to accrue by using the cheaper
grades is more than offset by the advantages obtained by using only Number One
Grades.
FUEL SUPPLY
Two fuel feed taps are situated underneath the rear end of the petrol tank. (One each
side.) Both must be shut off when the machine is left standing for more than a few
minutes.
The tap plungers work horizontally. To open, the hexagon knob (marked " push on ")
is pushed towards the body of the tap. To close, press the round milled knob (marked
" push off ")
Normally, only use the tap on the right hand side of the machine and then the other
side will act as a reserve supply. Always re-fuel as soon as possible after being forced
to call upon the reserve (approx. ½gallon), and then, at once, close the " reserve " tap.
It will be noted that, by fitting two petrol feed taps, it is possible to remove the petrol
tank from the machine without the necessity of first draining it of fuel.
STARTING THE ENGINE
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
(f)
(g)
(h)
(i)
(j)
See that there is sufficient fuel in the petrol tank.
See that there is sufficient oil in the oil tank.
See that the gear pedal is in the neutral position.
Push inward the hexagonal end of off-side petrol tap slide.
See that the air control lever is in the fully closed position.
On models with manual control, fully advance the ignition and then pull back the
control lever two-fifths of its total movement.
Open the throttle not more than one-sixth of the total movement of the twist grip.
Depress the plunger on the top of the carburetter float chamber until it can be
felt the chamber is full of petrol.
Raise the valve lifter lever and, while keeping it raised, turn over the engine several
times by depressing the kick-starter pedal, three times, the object being to free
the engine. (This only applies if the engine is cold.)
Depress the kick-starter until compression is felt, then raise the valve lifter lever
and ease the engine just over compression. Then, after allowing the kick-starter
pedal to return nearly to its normal position, give it a long swinging kick with the
valve closed. Flywheel momentum will carry over compression and the engine
should fire immediately. If it fails to do so repeat exactly the same process.
Do not allow kick starter to return violently against its stop.
The kick-starter mechanism must be allowed to engage properly before putting heavy
pressure on the kick-starter crank pedal pin. That means there are two definite
and separate movements when operating the mechanism by depressing the crank.
The first is a slow and gentle movement which ends when it is felt the quadrant has
engaged with the teeth on the ratchet pinion.
9

Illustration 2
Showing the gear indi-
cator drum which upon
assembly is set to record
the various gears and
neutral position, as the
respective figure or letter
N registers with index
mark on the gear box shell.
Upon re-asembly, after
dismantling for any pur-
pose,the index disc should
be correctly re-set for
future reference.
The first slow and gentle movement is essential to avoid damage to the teeth of the
kick-starter quadrant.
After the engine has started, slowly open the air lever until it runs evenly. Then set
the throttle so that the engine is running at a moderate speed (neither racing nor ticking
over) and allow to warm up. While doing this, check the oil circulation as detailed in
page 13. The machine can then be taken on the road.
NOTE—Do not race up the engine from cold and do not flood the carburetter to such
an extent that petrol is dripping, because then, in the event of a backfire, there
is a danger of such loose petrol igniting. This cannot possibly happen if the
starting instructions are carefully followed, but. in the event of a fire, there is
no cause for panic. Merely turn off the petrol tap to isolate the main supply,
open wide the throttle and turn over the engine by operating the kick-starter
pedal when suction will extinguish the fire.
STOPPING THE ENGINE
To stop the engine, close the throttle, raise the valve lifter lever and keep It raised
until the engine has ceased to revolve.
ON THE ROAD
Having started and warmed up the engine, take the machine off the stand, sit astride it,
free the clutch by pulling up the large lever on the left bar and engage the lowest gear.
Next, slowly release the clutch lever and the machine will commence to move forward.
As it does this, the engine speed will tend to drop as it picks up the load so it will be
necessary to increase the throttle opening, gradually, to keep the engine speed gently
rising.
When well under way, disengage the clutch, slightly close the throttle, engage second
gear and release the clutch lever, then open up the throttle to increase the speed of
the machine. Repeat these operations in order to engage third and top gears.
To engage a higher gear the pedal is pressed downward with the toe and a lower gear Is
obtained by raising the pedal with the instep. To engage first gear from the neutral
position, the pedal is therefore raised. After each pedal movement, internal springs
return the pedal to its normal horizontal position.
The pedal must be moved to the full extent of its travel when selecting a gear, either
up or down. It must not be " stamped down " or jabbed, but firmly and decisively
moved till it stops. A half-hearted movement may not give full engagement. Keep
the foot off the pedal when driving and between each gear change because, unless the
lever can freely return to its normal central position, the next gear cannot be engaged.
Finally, fully advance the ignition (350 c.c. models) and leave it in that position unless
It is necessary to retard in order to ease the engine and so prevent "pinking" when
pulling hard on a gradient.
10

STOPPING THE MACHINE
To stop the machine, close the throttle, declutch by lifting the large lever on the left
handlebar, and gently apply both brakes, increasing the pressure on them as the road
speed of the machine decreases. Place the gear change foot pedal In the neutral position
and stop the engine.
Before leaving the machine, turn off the fuel supply.
IMPORTANT NOTICE
NEVER DRIVE AWAY AT HIGH SPEED WHEN STARTING A RUN WITH A
COLD ENGINE. GIVE THE OIL A CHANCE TO WARM UP AND THIN OUT,
PARTICULARLY WHEN THE MACHINE IS COLD. UNTIL THE OIL REACHES
ITS NORMAL RUNNING TEMPERATURE THE CIRCULATION IS
RESTRICTED. SEIZURES CAN BE AVOIDED BY TAKING THIS SIMPLE
ESSENTIAL PRECAUTION.
RUNNING IN
Although It is customary to quote permitted maximum speed* on the various gear*
during the period ofrunning in, these are really noguide to overdriving, the only essential
thing to avoid being the use of large throttle opening.
If the precaution is taken of limiting the use of the throttle to about one-third of Its
opening during the first 1,000 miles, irrespective of the road speed, and whether on the
level or climbing, the necessary conditions for running in will have been observed.
Special attention must be given, during the running in period, to such details as valve
rocker adjustment, chains, brakes, contact breaker points, and steering head bearings,
all of which tend to bed down in the first hundred miles or so. Particular note must be
made of the adjustment of steering head bearings, which, if run in a slack condition, will
be quickly ruined. After this bedding down process has taken place, adjustments to
such details will only be necessary at lengthy intervals.
After about 1,000 miles have been covered larger throttle openings may be gradually
indulged in for short bursts only.
Until at least 2,000 miles have been covered the owner of a new machine is strongly
advised to curb his natural desire to learn the mount's maximum capabilities. Restraint
in this direction will be amply repaid later.
11

NOTES ON DRIVING
If, at first, the lowest gear will not engage, release the clutch lever and after a second or
two, make another attempt. This condition may exist in a new machine, but it tends to
disappear after a little use.
Always endeavour to make the movements of hand (on the clutch) and foot (on the gear
pedal) as simultaneous as possible, and remember, in all gear changes, a steady pressure
of the foot is desirable. This pressure should be maintained until the clutch is fully
released. It is not sufficient just to jab the foot pedal and then release the clutch lever.
When actually in motion, it will be found sufficient to merely free the clutch a trifle,
to ease the drive when changing gear and, with reasonable care, changes of gear then
can be made without a sound.
Do not unnecessarily race the engine or let in the clutch sufficiently suddenly to cause
the rear wheel to spin. Take a pride in making a smooth, silent get-away.
When changing up to a higher gear, as the clutch is freed, the throttle should be slightly
closed so that the engine speed is reduced to keep m step with the higher gear ratio.
Conversely, when changing down to a lower gear, the throttle should be regulated so
(hat the engine speed is increased to keep in step with the lower gear ratio.
Do not slip the clutch to control the road speed.
The clutch must only be used when starting from a standstill and when changing gear.
It must NOT be operated to ease the engine, instead of changing gear, or be held out,
in order to " free-wheel."
The exhaust valve lifter is NOT used in normal driving on main and secondary roads.
When travelling slowly, such as may occurin traffic oron a hill, and the engine commences
to labour, it is then necessary to change to a lower gear. Engine " knocking " or
" pinking " and a harshness in the transmission are symptoms ofsuch labour and although
relief can sometimes be found by retarding the ignition, it is generally much better to
change down. A good driver is able to sense such conditions and will make the change
before the engine has reached the stage of distress. The gear box is provided to be
used and consequently full use should be made of the intermediate gears to obtain
effortless running and smooth hill climbing.
Keep the feet clear of the brake and gear pedals when not actually using them and keep
the hand off the clutch lever when not in use.
Drive as much as possible on the throttle, making the minimum use of the brakes.
When using the machine on wet or greasy roads, it is generally better to apply BOTH
brakes together, because sudden or harsh application of either brake only, under such
conditions, may result In a skid.
In all conditions, it is advisable to make a habit of always using both brakes together
rather than habitually using the rear brake and reserving the front brake for emergency,
12

CHECKING OIL CIRCULATION
Provision is made to observe the oil in circulation and it is advisable to do this before
each run.
If the filler cap on the oil tank is removed the bent over end of the oil return pipe will
be noticed some two inches below the level of the filler cap orifice and the returning
oil can be seen running from it. This check should be made immediately after starting
the engine from cold. This is because while the engine is stationary, oil from all parts
of the interior of the engine drains back into the crankcase sump, so that, until this surplus
Is cleared, the return flow is very positive and continuous. Therefore, if the oil circula-
tion is deranged, the fact is apparent at once by the lack of a steady return flow.
Showing the oil tank with the felt filter in its cylindrical housing and the
metal strainer mounted on the entry end of the feed pipe union. Also
shows the direction of flow of oil from tank to engine and return flow from
engine to tank via the small spout, located so that it can be inspected by
removing the tank filler cap. An air vent pipe is provided to ensure free-
dom from air-locks.
Illustration 3
VENT PIPE PREVENTING
AIR LOCKS.
REMOVE CAP SPRING AND
DISHED SEAT FOP SPRING,
TO OBTAIN ACCESS TO
FELT FILTER FOR ITS
WITHDRAWAL WITH CAP REMOVED THE
OIL FLOW IS VISIBLE,
TOP LEVEL MARK
LOW LEVEL MARK.
TUBE FORMING CHAMBER
FOR OIL FILTER, THEREBY
ISOLATING IT FROM THE
OIL TANK
DRAIN PLUG
OIL RETURN PIPE FROM
ENGINE RETURN PUMP.
GRAVITY PIPE TO ENGINE
OIL FEED PUMP.
METAL GAUZE FILTER (PULL
OFF OIL FEED PlPE WITH ITS
CONNECTING RUBBER TUBE,
AND FlLTER CAN THEN BE
WITHDRAWN DOWNWARDS )
13

LUBRICATION
LUBRICANTS TO USE
Efficient lubrication is of vital importance and it is false economy to use cheap oils and
greases.
We recommend the following lubricants to use in machines of our make :
FOR ENGINE LUBRICATION
SUMMER WINTER
Mobiloil D
Castrol Grand Prix
Energol 50
Essolube 50
Shell Motor Oil X-100
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
Mobiloil A
Castrol XL
Energol 30
Essolube 30
Shell Motor Oil X-100
(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)
(SAE-40)
FOR GEAR BOX LUBRICATION
Mobiloil D
Castrol Grand Prix
Energol 50
Essolube 50
Shell Motor Oil X-100
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)
FOR HUB LUBRICATION AND ALL FRAME PARTS USING GREASE
Mobilgrease No. 4
Castrolease Heavy
Energrease C3
Esso Pressure Gun Grease
Shell Retinax Grease C.D. or A.
FOR TELEDRAULIC FRONT FORKS AND TELEDRAULIC REAR LEGS
Mobiloil Arctic
Castrolite
Energol 20
Essolube 20
Shell Motor Oil X-100
(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)
FOR REAR CHAINS
Tallow
When buying oils and greases it is advisable to specify the Brand as well as the grade
and, as an additional precaution, to buy only in sealed containers orfrom branded cabinets.
14

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
This is by dry sump system. Oil feeds, by gravity, from the oil tank to the pump in the
crankcase. The pump forces oil to various parts, which then drains to the bottom of
crankcase sump. The pump then returns oil to the tank. This process is continuous
while the engine Is revolving. The pump is so designed that it has a greater capacity
on the return side to that on the delivery side to ensure that all oil is extracted from
the crankcase. A fe!t cartridge filter, in the oil tank, removes foreign matter collected
by the oil in its passage through the engine. A metal gauze strainer is fitted to the oil
feed pipe in the oil tank to prevent pieces of fluff, etc., which may find their way into
the tank when replenishing, from entering the oil pump. (See Illustration 3.)
Felt filter and metal strainer should be cleaned in petrol each time the oil tank is drained.
ENGINE OIL PUMP
The pump has only one moving part. This is the plunger which revolves and reciprocates.
Rotation Is caused by the worm gear on the timing side flywheel axle. Reciprocation
is caused by the guide pin which engages in the profiled groove cut on the plunger.
Oil is fed to the pump through the lower of the two oil pipes between tank and crank-
case and is returned through the upper pipe.
if, for any reason, the crankcase is dismantled the oil pump plunger mutt be removed
from its housing before attempting to separate the crankcase halves. It is
not necessary to remove the small timing pinion which will pass through in situ.
ENGINE OIL CIRCULATION
The oil pump forces oil through :—
(a) A passage cut through the timing side flywheel axle, timing side flywheel and crank
pin to lubricate the big-end bearing. The splash passes to interior of cylinder, to
lubricate the cylinder and piston, and then falls into the crankcase sump,
(b) A passage in crankcase, controlled by ball valve, direct to the cylinder, to assist in
cylinder and piston lubrication and then falls into the crankcase sump.
(c) A passage in timing gear case where it " builds up " to a predetermined level to
lubricate the timing gears and then overflows into the crankcase sump.
(d) Through a pipe from the front of oil pump housing to the rocker box by which
all rocker gear and valve stems are lubricated and then falls through the push rod
cover tubes and tappet guides to the timing gear case and, from there, drains into
the crankcase sump, as detailed in Para. (c).
The oil pump extracts oil in the crankcase sump and returns It to oil tank. On its way
it passes through the felt cartridge filter located in the oil tank.
D—A.S.
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Illustration 4
Engine Oil Circulation
THE OIL TANK AND FILTERS
The level of oil in the supply tank should never be allowed to fall below the low level
mark and, upon replenishment, should not be higher than the top level mark other-
wise, when starting the engine, the bulk of oil in the crankcase sump may be greater
than the space available in the tank.
The oil filter is made in cylindrical form of thick felt and is supported by a tubular wire
cage. The felt is not detachable from the cage.
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A metal gauze strainer is secured in the tank end of the feed pipe union.
After the first 500 miles, again at 1,000 miles, and subsequently at 5,000 mile intervals,
it is recommended that the oil tank is drained, the oil filters cleaned in petrol and the
tank replenished with new oil.
TO REMOVE THE FELT OIL FILTER
Unscrew the hexagonal headed cap on the top of oil tank and withdraw the dished
washer and spring. Then insert a finger in the exposed open end of the felt filter and
gently raise. As the filter emerges from the tank gently strain inward and backward on
rigid frame model to clear the saddle frame or outward and forward on spring frame
model to clear the twin seat. Care in this operation is necessary to avoid kinking the
filter,
To re-fit filter :—
Reverse above instructions.
NOTE—If, after the filter has been removed from the tank, it is damaged, so that the
felt is perforated, or the ends distorted, it is essential to discard it and to fit a
new filter.
Be careful to avoid damaging the filter or the cork washer under the hexagonal
cap.
To remove and clean the feed pipe metal filter :
Release the oil feed pipe from the rubber connecting sleeve on the metal feed pipe
protruding from the bottom of the oil tank.
The metal filter may come away with the rubber sleeve, in which case there is no need
to disturb it. On the other hand it may remain in the oil tank bottom pipe, in which
case it may be withdrawn by grasping the ringed open end and pulling away,
After removal the filter should be cleaned in petrol and allowed to dry before re-fitting.
Reverse the above procedure to re-fit the filter and pipes.
ADJUSTMENT OF OIL FEED
The internal flow of oil is regulated by fixed restrictions. No adjustment Is provided
except for the oil feed to the inlet valve stem. This adjustment Is made by a needle
pointed screw located in the right side of cylinder head. (See Illustration 5.) It is
locked in position by a nut. The approximate correct setting is one-sixth of a complete
turn from the fully closed position. Once set it requires little, or no, adjustment.
Inlet valve squeak indicates the oil feed adjustment is not open enough. Excessive oil
consumption, a smoky exhaust or an oiled sparking plug, generally indicates the oil
feed adjustment is open too much.
EXHAUST VALVE STEM LUBRICATION
The exhaust valve stem is lubricated by oil flowing through a passage drilled in the
cylinder head. No adjustment is provided.
LUBRICATION POINTS TO REMEMBER
A dirty, or choked, felt oil filter causes heavy oil consumption. This is because the
return flow of oil to the oil tank is reduced, thereby allowing an excess of oil to " build
up " in the crankcase sump, much of which passes to the piston.
A clogged metal strainer, in the gravity feed pipe, will also cause improper, or no, oil
circulation, This can only occur as the result of adding dirty oil when replenishing the
tank.
Both end caps on pump plunger housing must be air-tight.
Check oil circulation before starting each run.
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Illustration 5
The inlet valve guide is shown withdrawn as also is the inlet valve stem
adjusting screw (with lock nut)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
PLAIN HOLE, FOR OIL FEED TO INLET
VALVE.
TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE
CARBURETTER RETAINING STUD,
INLET POUT.
TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE
CARBURETTER RETAINING STUD.
HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE DOWEL
LOCATING VALVE SPRING SEAT.
GUIDE, FOR INLET VALVE.
TAPPED HOLE, FOR SPARKING PLUG.
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
PLAIN HOLE, FOR OIL FEED TO EXHAUST
VALVE,
HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE DOWEL PIN
LOCATING VALVE SPRING SEAT.
GUIDE, FOR EXHAUST VALVE.
HEAD.
EXHAUST PORT.
NEEDLE SCREW, ADJUSTING OIL FEED
TO INLET VALVE,
LOCK NUT, FOR NEEDLE ADJUSTING
SCREW.
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