AL-MAR ROUTED - PICKET & HAWTHORNE User manual

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Effective: 2/29/2016
www.almarvinyl.ca • sa[email protected]
Exeter, Ontario [phone]
ROUTED – PICKET & HAWTHORNE FENCE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are to be used as general
guidelines for the installation of your vinyl fence
under normal installation conditions. Local
conditions may exist which may require changes
in the recommended methods of installation
noted in these instructions such as extreme
weather, bad soil conditions such as expansive
soil or poorly compacted soil, extreme winds or
heat, etc.
1. Before you begin, familiarize yourself with
the installation instructions.
2. Tools Required for Installation:
a) Measuring tape
b) Wood or Metal Stakes
c) Post-hole digger / auger
d) Post-mix concrete
e) String
f) Hammer
g) Shovel
h) Spray paint
i) Wheelbarrow
j) Level
k) Duct tape to seal rail ends
l) Saw
m) Drill
n) Wrenches (adjust gate)
3. KNOW WHAT’S BELOW BEFORE YOU
DIG! Most areas have a call center that you
can call to have the utilities located prior to
digging. Calling your local utility company is
the easiest way to determine who to call. It
is important to note that most utility
companies will not locate and mark private
utility lines that were installed by
homeowners or contractors. Locating utility
lines prior to digging may not only save your
life, it may also release you of liability in
many cases if a line is hit during installation
that should have been located but was not.
Prior to digging the holes, you should be
prepared with emergency numbers to call in
the event that a utility line is damaged.
4. FENCE LAYOUT:
When you purchased the fence you likely drew a
layout and determined the amount of fencing
you needed. It is very helpful to draw the layout
of the fence prior to purchasing and installing
your vinyl fence.
Once you have drawn the fence layout (sample
above) and received your product, it is time to
mark the locations to dig the holes for the posts.
To start, hammer a stake at each corner and
end location of your fence. Pull a string line
between the end and corner posts. This string
line represents where the center of your fence
will be. Many people offset the string line at this
time so that it represents the edge of the fence
line; this will save an extra step when you begin
setting the posts (see Figure 1.1).
Determine gate post locations and set stakes at
these locations. Once you have pulled the string
line tight you can now mark the center of each
post along the string line.
Mark the post hole location by beginning at one
end of the fence and marking the center to
center measurement of each post (your center
to center measurement can be found on the
specification sheet of the style fence
purchased). For example, if you have a 96½” on
center section, you will measure from the center
of your first post 96½” and mark the ground with
upside down marking paint. Continue marking
down the string line until you get to the end post.
See (Figure 1.1).

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Important: The center to center measurement
between any two posts should never exceed the
center to center measurement of the fence style
you purchase or your panels will not fit.
LAYOUT CUSTOMIZING:
Most projects will not have fence lines that are
exactly 6’ or 8’ increments and will not come out
perfectly when measuring. You will have to
make one of a few choices.
Option 1 is to have a short section at the end of
the line (Figure 1.2).
Option 2 is to make each section equal or
shorten several of the sections on the fence so
that you don’t have a short section at the end
(Figure 1.3).
For years I chose option 2 and cut down each
section to make every section equal but I found
that most people don’t notice the section that is
short and it saves a lot of time and energy to
choose Option 1.
5. DIGGING THE HOLES & INSTALLING
THE POSTS:
Once you have marked the fence post locations,
you are ready to dig the holes.
Note: Different soil conditions and climates
require different footing requirements. Seek
guidance from local professionals and building
codes to determine the proper depth and width
of footing. In many areas, a 10” wide hole for a
5” post with a depth of 36-42” is standard and
adequate but different regions and local codes
vary. In frost regions longer posts are required to
keep your fence firm in the ground. Please
contact us if you are unsure whether your
project requires a different length of post than
the standard length and we can help you with
your individual needs. In some regions, a layer
of gravel at the bottom of the post holes is
added for extra drainage.
Dig holes using a post-hole digger or an auger.
See Figure 1.4. Make sure you have called and
located all utility lines and that you adjust your
fence
accordingly to any conflicts.
If your project is more than a few holes, you
could contact your local small equipment tool
rental center to rent a one or two man auger.
These generally range from $60 – 95 a day to
rent. If using a one or two man auger, make sure
you familiarize yourself with the operator’s
manual to insure your safety.
Safety Tip: When open holes exist, safety
standards should be applied to properly protect
the area and notify bystanders of the potential
trip and fall hazards that exist with open holes in
the ground. Clearly mark the area as a
construction zone so others are notified of the
dangers that exist.
FIGURE 1.2
FIGURE 1.3

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Once the holes are dug, the easiest way to set
posts in a straight line is by using a string line
stretched from one end of the fence to the other.
To do this, move the stakes you previously used
to mark the hole locations over 2” if installing a
4” post, 2.5” if installing a 5” post. The reason
you are moving the stakes over is because they
were used to mark the center of the holes and
now we need to move them over so the string
line is positioned where the outside of the post
should be. See Figure 1.1 and 1.5.
To set the post in a straight line you want to
level the post and then place the post just off the
string line (you do not want the post touching the
string line).
Fill the hole around the post with concrete up to
2” – 3” from top of the hole while keeping the
post level and just off of the string.
Note: If the top of hole is not perfectly formed,
do not pour concrete above the point where the
holes become deformed. Frost will grab the
concrete and heave the post up in the winter. If
hole is deformed more than 12” from the
surface, then sonotube (available at any lumber
yard), must be used to contain concrete for top
portion of hole that is deformed.
Plum, square and level the post into position.
You will typically set the post height so the
bottom rail has two inches of clearance from the
ground. This bottom gap can be adjusted to fit
your project’s needs.
Continue setting the next post, making sure that
distance between the posts matches the
measurement of the specification sheet for the
style you purchased. Spacing varies depending
on type of fence you purchased. Please see
specification sheet of your style of fence
purchased. You can get these spec sheets by
contacting us.
Note: At the end of the runs, sections may need
to be shortened to maintain desired layout.
Help Tip: It is important to look often down the
line of your fence to make sure that the fence is
straight and level and plum. If something looks a
little off, go back and adjust as needed. Once
you complete a section of fence it is very easy to
push a fence post one way or another and tamp
at the base of the post to ensure that the top of
the fence is straight and level plumb. See Figure
1.6
Getting the Height of the Post Right:
A method commonly used when setting posts is
to set the posts close to the right height but
primarily focusing on getting the posts straight in
a line (post is level and just off the string). Once
this has been completed and prior to the
concrete setting up, the installer, with the
assistance of another will look down the line and
pull the post up a little or knock it down by
tapping on the top of the post with a block of
wood and hammer. The block of wood will help
to prevent damage to the vinyl post.
String lines can also be used to help keep the
post level but remember that string lines
sometimes sag in the middle so it is important to
visually look down the top of the fence to make
sure the fence is straight. See Figure 1.7.
FIGURE 1.5

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The posts can also be set the right height by
placing the bottom rails in the posts and using a
level to make sure the posts are set level. When
the level is placed on the rails you will know
whether to lower raise or lower a particular post.
Rails can be blocked up off the ground to hold
posts at the correct elevation.
Grade Note: Contact your fence supplier prior to
ordering your fence if your fence grade rises or
slopes more than 5%. The fabricator will adjust
for this condition by enlarging the routed holes
on the posts and rails or make special stepped
posts.
GATE POSTS:
Gate posts should be set at the same time the
other fence posts are being installed and using
the same methods.
The spacing between the two gate posts is
VERY IMPORTANT depending on the size of
gate you purchased and extra care should be
taken to make sure that gate posts are set at the
right distance between the gate posts.
Leveling and plumbing the post is essential to
the proper operation of the gate. If gate posts
are not level, you will notice it when the gates
have been installed. Un-level posts also prevent
the gates from operating properly.
The distance between the posts for a gate
should be the distance of the gate you
purchased. For example, a 4’ wide gate will be
4’ wide. Actual space between gate posts should
be 1½” to 2” wider than gate.
Make sure rebar is installed in the gate post(s)
while the concrete is still wet. See Fig 8.12
INSTALLING THE BOTTOM RAILS
Insert the bottom rail into the post, maintaining
an equal distance on both sides of the rail. If the
section you are installing is smaller than a
standard panel, you will need to cut the rail to
make it the right length for that section. To do
this, measure the distance between the posts
and add 4” for the desired rail length. The rail
must extend into the center of post on both
posts. The stiffener in the bottom rail will also
need to be cut to the same length as the rail.
See Figure 1.8
The rail stiffener needs to be cut with heavy duty
tin snips, hacksaw, or circular saw/sawzall with a
metal blade.
Be sure not to track the metal filings from the
saw onto a deck or other surface. The filings are
sharp and will cause rust marks overnight.
Note: When cutting a picket fence rail it is
important to make sure that the distance from
the first and last picket hole in the rail are equal
in distance to each post. This process involves
cutting both ends of the rail equally. See below
48.000”
”
51.000”

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INSTALLING THE TOP RAILS
Slide the top rail into place as shown in Figure
1.10
INSTALLING THE PICKETS
Insert the pickets into the bottom rail of each
section by starting at one side and inserting the
tongue and groove pickets in the bottom rail.
See Figure 1.11
Secure the top rail by placing a set screw into
the rail and next to the inside wall of the post.
Make sure section is centered between posts
and pickets are vertical before setting screws.
GATE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
There are many methods of making gate posts
stronger such as adding steel inserts and or
concrete to the inside of gate posts.
We prefer the method of adding 2 - ½” pieces of
rebar to the post and filling the post with
concrete. We have used this method on
thousands of gates and we feel this method has
been tried and proven. (See Figure 8.12)
Prior to filling the posts with concrete it is
important to screw the gate hardware on the
gate posts so you are not screwing into a post
filled with concrete. Gate hardware placement
does not have to be exact and placement should
look something similar to the gate specification
diagram provided. At this point the gate
hardware should be secured only to the post
that will hold the gate in place and not the gate
itself. (See Figure 8.13)
Figure 1.10
Figure 1.11

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WARNING!
If filling 2 adjacent posts with concrete, a drain
MUST be drilled in bottom rail (through all
internal ribs & stiffener) to let water out of rail.
Failure to do this will result in the bottom rail
being damaged by freezing water in the winter.
When mixing concrete for gate posts it is
important to get a good consistency, too thick
and the concrete will not form properly as it is
rocky and doesn’t fill into the post properly, too
soupy and the concrete will run down the rails
and not be strong enough as the concrete is
diluted with water (many put tape on the end of
the rails that insert into gate posts to prevent the
concrete from flowing back into the rail).
Once you have the right consistency, pour the
concrete inside the post and fill the post with
concrete. Typically installers use a large cup or
funnel. Concrete will likely spill down the side of
the post during this stage of the installation.
Concrete can be wiped off easily if done before
the concrete is allowed to cure. Typically we let
the concrete dry a little on the outside of the post
as we have found it wipes off easier with a dry
cloth. If the concrete is on the vinyl for extended
period the concrete can be difficult to remove.
When concrete is wet and with the help of a little
water the concrete will wipe off with a cloth or a
sponge.
Let the concrete in the post cure prior to hanging
the gate. Cure time varies from geographic
location and time of year. During summer
months in most locations, this can be the next
day. During winter months we have seen this
time vary from 1-4 days.
Alternative concrete products may be used such
as quick curing concrete to speed up this
process. Another option is to use a metal
stiffener inside of the gate post in lieu of
concrete. We have these available and can see
them as requested.
Once the concrete has cured, the gate can be
attached to the hardware by adjusting the hinges
to the desired gate width and holding or blocking
the gate up at the desired height and screwing
the hinges to the gate. (See Figure 8.14)
Secure the hinges to the gate with the provided
screws and adjust the hinges to make sure the
gaps on both sides of the gate are equal and the
gate is level and swinging properly.
Attach the latch to the gate. The latch pin should
fit loose into the latch.
Secure Caps:
Glue caps onto top of post with PVC glue,
making sure not to spill or drip glue onto the
fence, as certain glues will sometimes yellow.
Enjoy your fence; see maintenance instructions
as to proper maintenance care for your vinyl
fence.