AL-MAR B17 User manual

low-profile
P319
D- 17-006-01-rev.16 17-006-01-rev.16 09/14/21
Thru-Hull Mount: 600W, Low-profile or Flush
Depth or Depth &Temperature Transducer
Models: B17, B117,
P17, P19, P217, P314, P319
Patent http://www.airmar.com/patent.html
Applications
• Best performance on hull deadrise angle through 7°.
Can accommodate up to a 12° deadrise angle.
•Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hull only.
Never install a plastic housing in a wood hull since swelling of
the wood may fracture the plastic.
•Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hull.
Never install a bronze housing in a metal hull because
electrolytic corrosion will occur.
Tools & Materials
Safety glasses
Dust mask
Ear protection
Electric drill [Ø 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity}
Drill bit: Ø 3mm or 1/8"
Hole saw (see table below)
Countersink tool (installing a flush housing)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Additional washer [for aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick]
Slip-joint pliers (installing a metal housing)
Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties
Water-based anti-fouling coating (mandatory in saltwater)
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (page 4):
Hole saw for hull interior: (see table below)
Fiberglass cloth and resin
or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy
Identify Your Model
The model name is printed on the cable tag.
Model
(Housing)
Minimum
vertical space
inside the hull
Outside Hull
Ø Hole Saw
Cored Fiberglass Hull
Hull Interior
Ø Hole Saw
Low-profile:
B117
P19
P319
95mm (3-3/4") Ø 51mm or 2" Ø 60mm or 2-3/8"
Retractable
Low-profile:
B17
P17
200mm (8") Ø 51mm or 2" Ø 60mm or 2-3/8"
Retractable Flush:
P217
P314
200mm (8") Ø 51mm or 2" Ø 60mm or 2-3/8"
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz
retractable
low-profile
B17
P217
flush
Follow the precautions below for optimal
product performance and to reduce the risk of
property damage, personal injury, and/or death.
WARNING: Always wear safety glasses, a dust mask,
and ear protection when installing.
WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the
boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat
unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small
leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.
WARNING: Retractable models—All the O-rings
must be intact and well lubricated to make a
watertight seal. Do not dry fit the insert in the
housing. Attempting to install the insert without
lubricating all the O-rings may damage them, possibly
preventing full insertion and a watertight seal.
WARNING:Retractable models—Always attach the
safety wire to prevent the insert or blanking plug from
backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails
or is screwed on incorrectly.
WARNING: B117 and P319—Do not use the spacer
if there is insufficient space to tighten the nut, or it is
within 11mm (1/2") of the top of the housing.
CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by
its cable. This may sever internal connections.
CAUTION: Plastic housing—Never use a fairing with
a plastic housing; the protruding sensor would be
vulnerable to damage from impact.
CAUTION: Metal housing—Never install a metal
housing in a vessel with a positive ground system.
CAUTION : Never use solvents. Cleaner, fuel, sealant,
paint, and other products may contain solvents that can
damage plastic parts, especially the transducer’s face.
CAUTION: Never power sand or pressure wash the
sensor. It may weaken the structure or damage the
internal components.
IMPORTANT:Read the instructions completely
before proceeding with the installation. These
instructions supersede any other instructions in your
instrument manual if they differ.
OWNER’S GUIDE & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Mounting Location
Guidelines
CAUTION: Do not mount the transducer in line with or near water
intake or discharge openings or behind strakes, fittings, or hull
irregularities that will disturb the water flow.
• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a
minimum of bubbles and turbulence, especially at high speeds.
• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water at all
speeds.
• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or
propeller shaft(s).
• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and
radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that
can be used.
• Choose a location with a minimal deadrise angle, so the
transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate
vertical space for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts,
and removing any insert (see the table on page 1).
Boat Types (Figure 1)
•Displacement hull powerboats—Locate amidships near the
centerline. The side of the hull where the propeller blades are
moving downward is preferred.
•Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, on or near the
centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to
ensure that the transducer will be in contact with the water at
high speeds. The side of the hull where the propeller blades are
moving downward is preferred.
Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).
Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.
Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before
proceeding.
•Fin keel sailboats—Mount on or near the centerline and
forward of the fin keel 300 to 600mm (1–2').
•Full keel sailboats—Locate amidships and away from the keel
at the point of minimum deadrise angle.
Installation
Hole Drilling
Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 3.
1. Drill a Ø 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a
rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting
location, drill from the outside.
2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole
perpendicular to the hull from outside the boat (see table on
page 1).
Flush housing—Use a countersink tool to make a ‘seat’ in the hull.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
Bedding
CAUTION: Be sure the surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.
Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant around the
flange and up the sidewall of the housing (Figure 2). The sealant
must extend 6mm (1/4") higher than the combined thickness of
the hull, washer, any spacer, and the hull nut. This will ensure
there is marine sealant in the threads to seal the hull and to hold
the hull nut securely in place.
Installing
NOTE: Ignore any arrows on the housing, insert, and blanking plug.
1. From outside the hull, push the housing (and cable if applicable)
into the mounting hole using a twisting motion to squeeze out
excess marine sealant (Figure 2).
2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing.
B117 and P319—Also slide the spacer onto the housing and
rest it against the washer. Do not use the spacer if there is
insufficient space to tighten the nut or it is within 11mm (1/2") of
the top of the housing.
Aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4")thick—If necessary, use
an additional rubbery, fiberglass, or plastic washer. Never use
bronze because electrolytic corrosion will occur. Never use wood
because it will swell, possibly fracturing the plastic housing.
3. Screw the hull nut in place.
Plastic housing —If your housing has wrenching flats, do not
clamp tightly possibly causing the housing to fracture.
Plastic hull nut — Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
Metal hull nut —Tighten with slip-joint pliers.
Cored fiberglass hul l—Do not over tighten, crushing the hull.
Wood hull —Allow the wood to swell before tightening the hull nut.
4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to
ensure smooth water flow under the transducer.
Retractable Models Only
1. All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a
watertight seal. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the
O-rings on the transducer insert (replace if necessary) and
lubricate them with the silicone lubricant supplied.
2. Slide the insert into the housing. Seat the insert into place with a
twisting motion until the key fits into the notch. Be careful not to
rotate the housing and disturb the marine sealant. Screw the cap
nut in place.
Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
D800, DT800—Be sure the insert is fully inserted into the
housing. Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are
engaged. Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a
watertight seal. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
2
planing hulls
Figure 1.
full keel sailboats
large displacement hulls small displacement hulls
fin keel sailboats
Best location for transducer
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
stepped hull
outboard and I/O

fiberglass hull
plastic or bronze housing
housing
hull nut
spacer
washer
hull
marine sealant on flange and
side wall of housing
3. Attach the safety wire to prevent the insert from backing out in the
unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on incorrectly
(Figure 2).
Plastic housing—Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull
nut. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a
counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the
cap nut, the pull ring/eye in the insert, the second eye in the cap
nut, and the second eye in the hull nut. Twist the wire securely
to itself.
Metal housing—Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around
the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the
wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through the
eye in the cap nut. Loop the wire through the pull ring/eye in the
insert and twist it securely to itself.
Cable Routing & Connecting
CAUTION: If your transducer came with a connector, do not
remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and
spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and
follow the instructions provided. Removing the waterproof
connector or cutting the cable, except when using a watertight
junction box, will void the sensor warranty.
1. Route the cable to the instrument, being careful not to tear the
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other
parts of the boat. Use grommets to prevent chafing. To reduce
electrical interference, separate the transducer cable from other
electrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and
secure it in place using cable ties to prevent damage.
2. Refer to the echosounder owner’s manual to connect the
transducer to the instrument.
Checking for Leaks
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around
the transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may not be
readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for more than
3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small leak, there may
be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24 hours. If a leak
is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing” immediately
(page 2).
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The
core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be
reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing
the housing to become loose.
CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into
the core.
1. Drill a Ø 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a
rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting
location, drill from the outside (Figure 3). (If the hole is drilled in
the wrong location, drill a second hole in a better location. Apply
masking tape to the outside of the hull over the incorrect hole
and fill it with epoxy.)
2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole from
outside the hull through the outer skin only (see table on page 1).
3. From inside the hull using the appropriate size hull interior
hole
saw, cut through the inner skin and most of the core (see table on
page 1). The core material can be very soft. Apply only light
pressure to the hole saw after cutting through the inner skin to
avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.
4. Remove the plug of core material, so the inside of the outer skin
and the inner core of the hull is fully exposed. Sand and clean the
inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.
3
Figure 2. Bedding and installing
retractable insert
washer
hull
pull ring
safety wire
cap nut
hull nut
washer
hull
pull ring
safety wire
cap nut (plastic)
hull nut
marine sealant on flange and
flush housing metal housing
transducer insert transducer insert
housing
housing
Copyright © 2006 - 2010 Airmar Technology Corp.
side wall of housing
(B17 shown)
(P217 shown)
marine sealant on flange and
side wall of housing
(plastic/metal)
(P319/B117 shown)
fiberglass or wood hullfiberglass or wood hull
retractable insert
Figure 3. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull
inner skin
core
outer skinsolid or hollow cylinder
pour in
casting
epoxy
Ø 9 to 12 mm
(3/8-1/2")
larger than the
hole through the
hull’s outer skin
hull thickness
Copyright © 1996 - 2021 Airmar Technology Corp.

4Copyright © 2006 - 2021 Airmar Technology Corporation
5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass
cloth with a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and
strengthen the core. Add layers until the hole is the correct
diameter.
Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter
can be coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between
the cylinder and hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set,
remove the cylinder.
6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If
there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with
either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol)
before sanding.
7. Proceed with “Bedding” and “Installing” (page 2).
Anti-fouling Coating
Surfaces exposed to saltwater must be covered with an anti-
fouling coating. Use water-based anti-fouling coating made for
transducers only. Never use ketone-based paint since ketones
can attack many plastics possibly damaging the transducer.
Brush on anti-fouling coating every 6 months or at the beginning
of each boating season.
Retractable Models: Coat the following surfaces
• Outside wall of the insert below lower O-ring and exposed end
• Bore of the housing up 30mm (1-1/4”)
• Exterior flange of the housing
• Blanking plug below the lower O-ring including the exposed end
Maintenance, Parts & Replacement
Cleaning
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s face,
reducing its performance within weeks. Clean the surface with a
Scotch-Brite®scour pad and mild household detergent, being
careful to avoid making scratches. If the fouling is severe, lightly
wet sand the surface with fine grade wet/dry paper.
Retractable Models
Using the Blanking Plug
To protect the insert, use the blanking plug:
• When the boat will be kept in saltwater for more than a week.
• When the boat will be removed from the water.
• When aquatic growth buildup on the insert is suspected due to
inaccurate readings from the instrument.
1. All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a
watertight seal. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings
(replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone
lubricant supplied or petroleum jelly (Figure 4).
2. Remove the transducer insert from the housing by removing the
safety wire and unscrewing the cap nut (Figure 2).
3. With the blanking plug ready in one hand, pull the transducer
insert most of the way out. Remove the insert and rapidly replace
it with the blanking plug. Seat it into place with a pushing twisting
motion until the key fits into the notch in the housing. With
practice, only 250ml (10oz.) of water will enter the boat. Screw the
cap nut in place.
Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
D800, DT800—Be sure the blanking plug is fully inserted into the
housing. Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are
engaged. Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a
watertight seal. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
4. Reattach the safety wire to prevent the blanking plug from
backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is
screwed on incorrectly.
Replacing the O-rings
All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a
watertight seal. Inspect the spare O-rings and lubricate them with
silicone lubricant or petroleum jelly. Replace the O-rings.
Winterizing
After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the
blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This
will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug,
possibly cracking the plastic.
Replacement Transducer & Parts
The information needed to order a replacement transducer is
printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When ordering,
specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For
convenient reference, record this information on the top of page one.
Lost, broken, and worn parts should be replaced immediately.
Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.
Gemeco USA
Tel: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
Airmar EMEA Europe, Middle East, Africa
Tel: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
www.airmar.com