Alton Victorian Smallwood User manual

04/15

2
Contents:
Introduction
Base Preparation
Overview
Base Assembly
Side Assembly
Rear Assembly
Front Assembly
Frame Assembly
Door Assembly
Roof Assembly
Louvre Installation
Glazing
Roof Vent Installation
Louvre Glazing
Gutter and Downpipe Installation
Optional Cresting
End Caps and Finials
Finished Installation
Optional Auto Louvre Installation
Parts Lists
Section
-
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Page
3
4
5-6
7
8-9
10-14
15-19
20-24
25-28
29-33
34-35
36-44
45-47
48
49-51
52
53
54-55
56-57
58-60
6’ Wide Victorian Cedar Greenhouse
Assembly Instructions

3
Thank you for purchasing your new Alton greenhouse. We recommend you familiarise
yourself with the instructions and read all safety information before you commence assembly.
This instruction manual is also available online at www.greenhousepeople.co.uk in the
technical help section should you need to reprint it. Should you require any additional advice
you can always call us on 01782 385409.
Safety Warning
 Glass, aluminium and timber can potentially cause injury. Please ensure you wear protective
goggles, gloves, headgear and suitable footwear when assembling and glazing the building.
 Please remember that glass is fragile and should be handled with extreme care. Always clear
up and dispose of any breakages immediately.
 Do not assemble the greenhouse in high winds.
 For safety reasons and ease of assembly, we recommend that this greenhouse is assembled
by a minimum of two people.
 Please clear all lying snow from the greenhouse roof as it can cause the roof to buckle or
collapse.
Site Preparation
 When selecting a site for your greenhouse, it is vital that you choose as flat and level an area
as possible.
 A concrete or slabbed base will provide the most solid foundation for your greenhouse. A
slabbed base would be our preferred choice as this helps with drainage.
 Avoid placing your greenhouse under trees or in other vulnerable locations.
 To minimise the risk of wind damage, try to select as sheltered a site as possible, e.g. beside a
hedgerow or garden fence.
Additional Considerations
 Please bear in mind that assembling your greenhouse can be time consuming. You may need
to spread the construction over two or more days. We recommend that you avoid leaving the
building partially glazed. If you ever have to leave your greenhouse half assembled and not
anchored down, weigh it down with slabs or bags of sand to stop the wind moving it.
 You will find it helpful to prepare a large, clean and clear area in which to work in. A garage
floor or flat lawn area is ideal.
 If you have arranged for someone to install your greenhouse for you, please check that all
components are included. Most parts are numbered and can be identified by a stamp or
removable label. Alternatively, the components can be identified by lengths detailed in the
packing list in your main cardboard box.
 Remember this is a natural timber product, the wood may soak up some water and some
staining may occur. Your Evolution greenhouse is factory dipped in a clear spirit based
preservative. We recommend that you re-apply some clear treatment annually particularly on
the most exposed areas. If you want to avoid this and give your greenhouse a more
permanent finish you could apply an oil based product (refer to manufacturers
recommendations for recoating).
Introduction

4
B
A
It is necessary to leave sufficient working room
around your greenhouse when you're putting it
up and also to allow for the possible need to
replace a piece of glass in the future. If possible
try and leave a space of 2ft/610mm around the greenhouse.
Note that the door opens inwards so you should not have any higher ground or obstacles inside the
front of the greenhouse.
Locate the greenhouse where there is maximum amount of sunlight and avoid if possible any shade
from trees, fences or other buildings. Over-hanging branches can be a particular nuisance and should
be avoided.
Choose a site where the greenhouse is relatively easy to get to and convenient to bring water to and
possibly a supply of electricity.
Finally, and most importantly, choose a site where your Alton Greenhouse will look right so that it
will complement your garden.
Base Preparation
1
Slab Base Size (Recommended)
Note: The base should always be larger than your
building.
The measurements given in ‘A’ and ‘B’ should only
be used as a guide.
Greenhouse
Width
Greenhouse
Length A (mm) B (mm)
6 ft - 1901mm 6 ft - 1956mm 2700
6 ft - 1901mm 8 ft - 2586mm 2400 3600
6 ft - 1901mm 10 ft - 3216mm 3600
6 ft - 1901mm 12 ft - 3846mm 4500
SOIL
50mm
5 : 1
3’ X 2’ Slab (2” thick)
(910mm X 610mm)
Recommended
Note: If a membrane is used
this may hinder drainage.

5
25mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
40mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
50mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
80mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
Fixes all
capping and
Secures
Timber
Cladding
Fixes glazing
bars to ridge
and cills
Secures corner
joints and the
roof glazing
bars to the
ridge
19mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
Fixes the
vent hinge
to the ridge
cover cap
25mm Countersunk
(Stainless Steel)
13mm Self Tapping
Used on
roof vents
EV0329 EV0328 EV0330 EV0331 EV0332 EV0333 EV0334 EV0339
Fixes the roof
glazing bars to
the eaves and
side glazing
bars in one go
100mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
Overview
2
This manual uses a 6 ft x 8 ft greenhouse as an
example throughout. Look out for tables and extra diagrams
showing the varying sizes. You can use the image on the front cover as
a reference as to what the greenhouse should look like as you go along.
If you are going to treat the greenhouse yourself then it would be best to do it
before you begin building the frame.
Set out your metal base on your prepared site, but don’t fix this down until the greenhouse
is complete. Follow the manual and build the sections as recommended.
When screwing through one piece of timber into another it is always recommended to predrill
the first piece. This will prevent the timber from splitting which could weaken the structure.
You can build the sides and gables flat on the ground and then with help or using a prop position the
first one ready for installation. You then work your way around the greenhouse connecting each
section. Once you have completed the gables and sides you can install the ridge and the roof.
To build your new greenhouse you will need the following tools:
Spirit Level Pencil
PZ2 Screwdriver Bit Cordless Screwdriver (2 would be ideal, 1 to drill and 1 to screw)
4mm Drill Bit 7mm Masonry Bit
Hammer Drill Hammer
Wooden/Rubber Mallet Tall step ladders x 2
There are 8 different types of screws used in the construction of the greenhouse. These are as
follows, with examples of where to look out for them:

6
Overview
2
Glazing the structure is very simple but be very careful of the edges of the glass as the pane will
break into tiny peaces if you catch an edge on a hard surface such as concrete. You should also wear
suitable gloves and goggles when handling the glass (this also helps to keep it clean). It is good
practice to pre-load the cedar bar capping with screws and position this around the greenhouse
ready for you when you arrive with the glass.
During glazing you will also need to fit the louvre vents so make sure you have these built and ready
to slot in. These fit between 2 pieces of glass and are held in place by the capping system.
Then fit the roof vents. This is done from the inside, gain access through the opening on a set of
steps.
All you have left to do now is fit the gutter and downpipes, think about where you might site a water
butt when doing this.
Option of gluing joints. This is not required for strength but you may do it if you wish. However bare
in mind if you ever intend to move or adapt the greenhouse in the future this would make it very
difficult. The best glue for this would be Poly Urethane Wood Adhesive. Take care when applying
this, you only need a very small amount as the glue expands to fill the joint. If you use too much it
may seep out of the joint and could be unsightly! Try a test piece before you start.
Read through the rest of this manual before starting, you are less likely to miss something doing this
and you will have a better understanding of how it all works.

7
Base Assembly
3
EV0304M
EV0611M
EV0304M
EV0293M
6ft long
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front EV0293M 497 2
Side EV0303M 1846 2
Rear EV0611M 1801 1
Joining Bracket EV0311M - 4
Base Bracket D174M - 9
8ft long
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front EV0293M 497 2
Side EV0304M 2476 2
Rear EV0611M 1801 1
Joining Bracket EV0311M - 4
Base Bracket D174M - 9
10ft long
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front EV0293M 497 2
Side EV0305M 3106 2
Rear EV0611M 1801 1
Joining Bracket EV0311M - 4
Base Bracket D174M - 11
12ft long
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front EV0293M 497 2
Side EV0306M 3736 2
Rear EV0611M 1801 1
Joining Bracket EV0311M - 4
Base Bracket D174M - 11
example
6 x 8
example
EV0293M
EV0311M
D174M
EV0304M
EV0611M
Internal
Diagram 1
Dia. 1
D174M
Lay out your aluminium base sections as the diagram
shows. Use the crop head bolts in the bolt channels for
attaching the base brackets (D174M), diagram 1. The base
brackets should always be positioned either side of the
door, in the corners, in the middle of the rear and equally
spaced down the sides. Use the joining bracket in each
corner with a standard bolt to join the sections (diagram 1).
The top holes will take a 25mm screw when the side cills
are fixed to it. Look for the length of building you have in
the table below to check what you should be using.

8
EV0017
EV0420
EV0030
Dia. 2
Dia. 3
EV0030 EV0030
Internal
EV0030
10ft long
example
To start building your greenhouse begin by laying out the components for your sides flat on the
ground like the diagram below. Use the tables below to identify your building length and the
components with the part numbers and sizes. First of all drill pilot holes through the bottom of each
mortise on the cill section (diagram 3, page 9). Then slot each glazing bar into the mortise holes.
These are designed as a tight fit so you may need help with this or maybe use a solid object to push
against. Once firmly in position fix with the 50mm screw. Now slot the eaves rail into position (e.g.
EV0420). There is no need to fix this yet as it is done at a later stage.
Side Assembly
4
Eavesbarexternalface
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0016 2476 2
EV0419 2564 2
EV0030 1588 6
8ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0017 3106 2
EV0420 3194 2
EV0030 1588 8
10ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0018 3736 2
EV0421 3824 2
EV0030 1588 10
12ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0015 1846 2
EV0418 1934 2
EV0030 1588 4
6ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
example

9
Diagram 2
EV0017
EV0501
Side Assembly
4
Make sure the side bars are pushed all the
way in, you may find they need a light tap
with a wooden mallet or something similar.
(If you are going to glue your joints this is the
first point you would do this. )
EV0501
EV0420
Diagram 3
Internal
EV0017
EV0501
50mm Screw
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
Internal

10
Rear Assembly
5
6ft Rear
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Rear Cill EV0404 1821 1
Roof Corner R EV0480 1324 1
Roof Corner L EV0481 1324 1
Side Corner R EV0056 1650 1
Side Corner L EV0057 1650 1
Gable Purling R EV0408 480 1
Gable Purling L EV0414 480 1
Rear Mid Purling EV0413 851 1
Standard Bar EV0030 1624 3
Gable Bar R EV0453 2208 1
Gable Bar L EV0454 2208 1
Mid Gable Bar EV0460 901 1
As with the side cills you will need to drill pilot holes in
the bottom of the mortise holes (diagram 5).
Assemble the gable glazing bar (EV0501) with the rear
cill flat on the ground as you did with the side sections.
This locates in the two outer mortise holes and the
middle mortise hole.
Now slot the middle rear purling (EV0413) onto the
central glazing bar, this will be fixed shortly.
EV0404
EV0030
50mm Screw
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
Internal Diagram 5
Diagram 4
EV0413
EV0501
Dia. 4
Dia. 5
EV0030
EV0413
EV0404
Internal

11
Rear Assembly
5
Dia. 6
Diagram 6
EV0413
Now slot the 2 longer gable bars
into the cill. These also need to
locate with the middle rear purling
(diagram 6) .
EV0453
EV0453 EV0454
EV0408 EV0414
Next fit both left and right purlings
to the standard glazing bars
(EV0501). These are handed parts
and it is important to fit them the
correct way round. The purlings will
have rounded edges on one side
and square cut edges on the other,
the rounded edges should be on the
inside of the building fitting flush
with the other components. The
square cut edges should be outward
facing and will be set in slightly from
the rebate that takes the glass.
These simply slot in place for now.
Internal
Internal

12
Rear Assembly
5
Diagram 8
Dia. 8
Dia. 7
EV0056 EV0057
EV0056
EV0056
EV0408
EV0404
You will need to drill a pilot hole in
the bottom of each side corner bar
as shown in diagram 7. This should
come through half way up the
mortise slot. Now slot the side
corner bar into place, fix the bottom
of the bar with an 80mm screw.
With the top of the bar lined up with
the end of the purling (keeping the
inside edges flush) drill a pilot hole
close to the inside face of the tenon
on the purling (diagram 8), then fix
with a 25mm countersunk screw.
This is only a transit screw so just
make sure the joint is nice and tight,
a larger fixing will be added later.
20mm
16mm
Diagram 7
80mmScrew
25mm Screw
Internal

13
Rear Assembly
5
Pilot
hole
here Dia. 9
EV0454
EV0481
40mmScrew
Diagram 10
Internal
Dia. 10
30mm 45mm
EV0454
Diagram 9
Once the side corner bars are secure slot
the above purling glazing bars into place.
With all of the gable bars in place drill pilot
holes through the lap joints at the end of
each bar. The holes should be drilled
centrally to the bar and spaced out as
shown in diagram 9.
Now slot the two roof corner bars into
place, these should be secured with 40mm
screws, diagram 10.
EV0481
EV0480
Internal
Internal
EV0460

14
5
Dia. 11
Diagram 11
Dia. 12
Diagram 12
With all the components now in place flip the gable end over so you now have the
outside edge facing you. Be careful doing this as some of the parts are not completely
supported, it is a good idea to have a helper at this point. Now using 25mm countersunk
screws fix the purlings to the glazing bars as shown in diagram 11 and 12. Make sure the
head of the screws are below the level of the timber so that they don’t have any contact
with the glass.
Rear Assembly
EV0413
EV0413
EV0413
EV0413EV0408
EV0408
EV0460 EV0460
EV0030
EV0030
EV0453 EV0453
External

15
Diagram 13
50mm Screw
EV0453
EV0005
Internal
External
Front Assembly
6
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
Dia. 13
The front gable is made
slightly differently to the
rear as it is in two halves.
It is a good idea to build
these side by side to
make sure you are fitting
the parts in the correct
orientation.
As before start by fixing
the gable bars to the cills
shown in diagrams 13
and 14.
EV0454
EV0453
EV0005 EV0005
6ft Front
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front Cill EV0005 507 2
Roof Corner R EV0480 1324 1
Roof Corner L EV0481 1324 1
Side Corner R EV0056 1650 1
Side Corner L EV0057 1650 1
Gable Purling R EV0408 480 1
Gable Purling L EV0414 480 1
Gable Bar R EV0453 2208 1
Gable Bar L EV0454 2208 1
Above door EV0471 561 1

16
Diagram 14
6
Front Assembly
Now slot the purling bars into
place, again as with the rear
assembly these will be fixed
later.
Dia. 14
EV0408
EV0453
EV0414
EV0408
Internal

17
Front Assembly
6
Diagram 16
EV0056
EV0057
Dia. 16
Dia. 15
EV0005
EV0056
EV0056
EV0408
As before (keeping the inside edges flush) drill a pilot hole close to the inside face of the purlings
tenon (diagram 16), then fix with a 25mm countersunk screw. This is only a transit screw so just
make sure the joint is nice and tight, a larger fixing will be added later.
20mm
16mm
Diagram 15
Drill the pilot holes again as
diagram 15 shows. Fix the cill
to the corner bar with an
80mm screw.
80mmScrew
Internal

18
30mm
6
Front Assembly
45mm
EV0454
Diagram 17
EV0454
Ev0481
40mmScrew
Diagram 18
Internal
Slot the roof corner bars onto the gable
bars and fix with 40mm screws
(diagram 18).
Slot the above purling glazing bars
into place ready to take the roof
corner bars. You should now drill
the pilot holes shown in diagram 17.
Dia. 18
Pilot
hole
here
Dia. 17
EV0481
EV0480
Internal
Internal

19
Front Assembly
6
Flip each gable section
over so you can fix the
purling bars with 25mm
countersunk screws
(diagram 19).
Diagram 19
EV0453
EV0408
Dia. 19
External

20
Frame Assembly
7
Before you position your side section onto the aluminium base you should drill the pilot holes in the
bottom of the side corner bars shown in diagram 21. The position of these holes should be about
19mm from the side face and 30mm measured from the bottom end of the bar.
You can now position the side section on the aluminium base, you will need a helper to hold this in
place or simply strap it to a set of steps.
Now offer the front gable to the side assembly slotting
the corner bar onto the end of the eaves bar, do not fix
this joint as it will be done at a later stage (diagram 22).
Screw the bottom of the corner glazing bar to the end of
the cill (80mm screw) making sure the rebate for the
glass lines up with the front face of the side cill (diagram
21).
Once the side corner bar is in place this will give you the
correct position on the aluminium base and you can fix
the base to the side cill with 25mm screws (diagram 20).
Dia. 22
Dia. 21
Diagram 20
25mmScrew
SideCill
SideBase
EV0030
Internal
Dia. 20