ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS LIVE STEAM MIKADO 2-8-2 User manual

09/10//05 NEW
LIVE STEAM MIKADO 2-8-2
INSTRUCTION MANUAL ART-84100-01
ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS / Polk’s Modelcraft Hobbies, Inc.
698 South 21st Street, Irvington, NJ 07111 USA
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
http://www. aristocraft.com e-mail: [email protected]

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Dear Model Railroader,
Congratulations on your purchase of the Aristo-
Craft 1:29 Live Steam Mikado!
The fun of running a locomotive as they were
intended to with real steam power is the key part
of this locomotive and the technical hard work is
Congratulations!
done by the magic of our technology that takes work out of the project
and leaves more running time for enjoyment.
Should you have any questions regarding operation, proper usage
or maintenance required on this or any other Aristo-Craft product,
please do not hesitate to contact us at the following address:
ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS / Polk’s Model Craft Hobbies, Inc.
698 South 21st Street, Irvington, NJ 07111 USA
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
e-mail: [email protected]
Our customer service department phones are open from 10:00 AM
to 5:00 PM Eastern time, Monday through Friday.
Visit our website: www.aristocraft.com
© 2005 Polk’s Modelcraft Hobbies, Inc.

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Locomotive Features & Accessories
This locomotive has the following features and accessories which makes it look and
operate in a superior manner:
An integrated radio control system for speed control, reversing, and to activate
several sound effects. This R/C system operates on the universally accepted 49
mhz frequency and is FCC-approved in the U.S.
A well for a warm water bath for the butane gas.
Auto-ignition for the flame using the tender control panel.
Easy-to-use-and-find butane fuel.
Wide-mouth oil access. (Oil not included)
D.C. electric motors for radio-controlled reverse and speed controls.
Two wall chargers for both 110v or 230v depending on the country where you are
located. An adaptor plug may be necessary for your country if the supplied plug will
not fit your receptacle.
A NiC_d battery pack to operate these electronic functions.
Tools such as two syringes for filling and removing the steam oil, a metal funnel to
fill the boiler and butane bath, two metal screwdrivers for the live steamer locomo-
tive adjusments and others.
Additional mechanical boiler functions to make maintenance as easy as possible.
Insulated wheels for running on powered layouts with other locos.
A Goodall valve and water bottle to refill the boiler under pressure before the water
cools.

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Live Steam Trains should not be used by anyone under the age of 14. This is not a
toy, and while not any more dangerous then the use of a stove while boiling water
for a cup of tea, it does take some common sense and the ability to make rational
actions if something doesn’t work as prescribed.
Hot water is scalding and must be treated as such, so do not open a pressurized
locomotive water tank until it has cooled sufficiently. To do so would create a reac-
tion much like opening an auto’s radiator cap under full pressure. DON’T do this.
Do not smoke when filling the butane into the tender. This is a flammable material
and is similar to the situation when relighting a gas stove burner when the pilot light
goes out.
Use only distilled water, available at supermarkets and drugstores widely, as regu-
lar water has contaminates that could eat away at your copper boiler. This is espe-
cially true if you do not thoroughly drain the water from the boiler after each use.
The Aristo-Craft Live Steamer has a drain cock to allow you to do just that.
Do tighten the hose to the boiler of the locomotive prior to adding the butane mate-
rial to the input in the tender.
Do not use boiling water in the supplemental hot water bath for the butane tank. It’s
not necessary and could cause handling problems with the scalding water. If you
like you can drain this hot bath water after steam-up and before you actually begin
running. This will provide a fresh hot water bath for the running period after the
water has reached the starting pressure.
Do not run your loco without proper steam oil that is formulated for the super-hot
conditions of running a steam locomotive. This is not included, but is available from
where you purchased your loco.
Do not overfill your boiler beyond the two cups of distilled water (500 ml total).
Live Steam Operation Safety
Please read all of these warnings very carefully before using your Aristo-Craft Live
Steam Mikado for the first time!

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If your auto-igniter does not cause the flame to ignite and the butane container is
filled, then send the loco in for service and do not try to adjust the flame yourself.
We have added spare O-rings that you can replace if the steam releases through
those valves. Please write to us for spares rather than continue to operate without
O-rings in top shape.
Please check you loco after 30 minutes of running to see that the water level in the
sight glass still indicates that you have sufficient water in the boiler. DO NOT RUN
YOUR LOCO WITHOUT WATER IN THE BOILER.
If your loco falls off the track, then immediately close the butane valve until all
butane flow is off and the flame thus shuts off.
Do not use this loco indoors. It’s only for outdoor usage as there is residual oil and
water that falls to the track.
Any modification of the loco will void our warranty and perhaps the safety of the
loco. Do not modify the loco at all for proper safety.
Live Steam Operation Safety (continued)

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Locomotive History
The Mikado 2-8-2 steam locomotive was one of the most common of the steam
locomotives built and used in the United States and Canada. It was a workhorse, a
locomotive that could do it all. Primarily used in freight operations, it was occasionally
employed in passenger service, right up to the end of steam operations. Large and small
railroads operated Mikados due to their extreme versatility. Some seemed to be light and
delicate, treading on small rail, others were plodding behemouths. It depended on the
job that needed to be accomplished.
During the age of the Iron Horse, the era of steam, almost 10,000 Mikados were built.
The Pennsylvania Railroad alone possessed over 550 of these locomotives.
When the U.S.A. became involved in World War I, the United States RailroadAdministration
decided to standardize the design and manufacture of locomotives in order to save time
and materials. This gave birth to what is known as the USRA Mikado. Over 800 light and
heavy USRA Mikados were erected by the 3 major locomotive builders: The American
Locomotive Company, Baldwin and Lima.
Some railroads used the boiler, cab and other components from existing Pacific
locomotives in order to save time and money in the construction of new Mikados.
Prototype Photo: Michael Hauptmann

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R/C System / Battery Charging Preparation
The very first step is to charge the NiC_d battery pack located inside the tender of the
locomotive. There is an included wall pack that must be plugged into a wall outlet first
and has a jack plug to insert into a hidden receptacle jack beneath the cylindrical coal
pusher on the top of the tender that unscrews (See fig. #1).
First remove the decorative coal load on top of the tender, revealing the control panel
underneath it. Then move the leftmost slide switch with the tender facing away from you
to the “charger” position and then plug the charger lead into the battery charging con-
nection power jack as illustrated (See fig. #2).
The red indicator light located in front of the coal pusher will turn to orange for the
approximate five-hour charge time and then the light will go out after the charge is
complete. The first charge-up may take overnight, but will recharge faster the second
time.
After the LED light goes out, the charge is complete and you can begin the testing
phase of operation.
fig. #2
Inserting the plug
fig. #1
Receptacle jack location

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To begin the function testing process, link the plug in front of the tender to the socket at
the end of the wire coming from the rear of the locomotive (See fig. #3). This allows all of
the R/C and electronic functions from the control panel of the tender to function in a
manual mode without the use of the transmitter.
R/C System Testing
fig. #3
Locomotive-to-tender connection
Manual mode testing
Remove the pressure fit coal load from the top of the tender to expose the control panel.
1) Push the left slide switch to the “operation” position and you will see a red indicator
light turn on.
2) Now you can test the sound buttons and the headlight button. These remain in opera-
tion until depressed a second time.
3) Next test the forward or reverse direction buttons and you will see the radius rod arm
move (see fig. #4).
fig. #4
Radius Arm

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R/C System Testing (continued)
A. Ignition Button - Press to ignite engine flame. Ignition
LED will light when button is pressed.
B. Speed and Directional Controls - Press to make your
engine speed up or slow down or change direction
C. Special Effects Controls - Press to active loco sound
effects or front lights
D. Mode Switch - Switches your loco to three different
phases - ignition, charger, and operation
Fig. 5 Tender Manual Control Panel
E. Remote/Manual Switch - Switches your loco from
manual control to R/C control.
F. Low Battery LED - Signals when your battery
power is running low.
G. Encoder Switch - Dipswitch location, must match
with dipswitch in transmitter.

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R/C System Testing (continued)
1) Take your R/C transmitter, open it by removing the installed screws, and insert the
provided 9v alkaline battery (See fig. #6).
2) The extendable antenna needs to be screwed into the transmitter through the opening
on the top right of the transmitter. The antenna should be extended when using during
the test as well as during regular operation.
3) There is a six-position dip encoder switch on the tender that must be matched to the
encoder switch order that is located on the inside of your transmitter. This dipswitch
encoder allows for up to 620 people operating their Live Steam Train simultaneously
without one interfering with the other. Obviously, only several people are likely to operate
at the same time, but the procedure is the same regardless of the number running (See
fig. #7).
4) Push the second from left slide switch on the tender from manual to remote and you
will see the indicator light turn green. The R/C hand-held transmitter will take over control
of your locomotive, allowing you to perform the same functions you just tested manually.
5) Repeat the same testing functions that you performed in the manual mode.
NOTE! The ignition switch for the butane is not on the transmitter for safety reasons, so
that you do not ignite the flame unintentionally. Please use the switch on the tender’s
control panel for ignition.
Remote Mode Testing
Now it is time to test the R/C system transmitter and functions...
fig. #6
Inside the R/C transmitter or “throttle”
fig. #7
Close-up of transmitter dipswitch panel

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Adding Lubrication
The next step is adding steam oil to the loco...
This locomotive is a steam vapor-propelled device and as such REQUIRES A HIGH-
TEMPERATURE LUBRICATING STEAM OIL ONLY! The steam oil is not included in the
package, but should be found at the same retailer that has sold you the locomotive and/
or from Aristo-Craft itself.
Two syringes are included with this locomotive for fill and removal of steam oil. Ignore the
one-time use label as this note is for medical use only (See fig. #8).
Looking down on the locomotive with front facing away from you, on the left side on the
running board you will see a master valve for the oil. Unscrew the master valve in order
to fill the oil (See fig. #9).
Filling one of the syringes with 8ml of oil, you then insert the tip of the syringe into the
hole where you removed the master valve from. As you release the oil make sure to
move the locomotive, by hand, slowly forward to push the oil into the cylinders and valves.
DO NOT MOVE THE LOCOMTIVE BACKWARDS DURING THIS PROCESS, FOR IT
WILL CAUSE THE OIL TO COME OUT INSTEAD OF BEING PUSHED THROUGH.
NOTE! The fill of the oil is done in stages and the cover of the master valve needs to be
screwed closed after the oil is inserted each time the process is done.
Repeat this process two or three times, and on the last fill, tighten the access cover
securely. A total of 8ml of oil, as indicated on the syringe side, is the most oil that should
be added every 3-4 runs depending on the lengths of the runs.
fig. #8
Included syringes for oil insertion
fig. #9
Removing the oil valve

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The lubrication, after the fill, is continuous and automatic during the operation of the
locomotive. This oil remainder needs to be sucked out via the same type of syringe used
to fill the oil reserve shown and needs to be refilled at least every four runs.
DO NOT RUN WITHOUT THE REQUIRED STEAM CYLINDER OIL! DO NOT USE MO-
TOR OIL! DO NOT USE THREE-IN-ONE OIL!
Adding Lubrication (continued)

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Adding Water
NOTE! ONLY DISTILLED WATER IS PERMITTED TO BE USED OR YOU WILL DAM-
AGE YOUR 100% COPPER BOILER! Distilled water is easily found at most drugstores
and supermarkets (See fig. #10).
Unscrew and remove the cover of the water inlet and add 500 ml of the distilled water
with a measuring cup. Measured out, 500ml will normally be two cups worth if the boiler
is empty. Rescrew back the filler cap and tighten with a wrench until the cap is secure.
We recommend you use a clear water cup with measurements indicated. This fill should
be done while the locomotive is already on the tracks and should be done using the
supplied metal funnel into the opening (SEE FIG. #11). Do not use a plastic funnel as it
may melt if the engine is warm!
The next step is adding water into the boiler. At this point, your locomotive should already
be placed on the track. Please drain all leftover water so that your new fill can be precise.
fig. #11
Metal funnel placed in locomotive
fig. #10
Bottle of distilled water
fig. #13
Engine Drain Cock Valve
fig. #12
Sight Glass

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As you add water to your Live Steam Mikado, the indicator on the inside of the cab, the
sight glass (See fig. #12), will rise as well. Always make sure to monitor the water levels
of your Live Steam Mikado as you can seriously damage your unit if you run it dry.
Please check the sight glass to make sure the water level is no more than two-thirds
filled. If you have added too much water or a residual amount had remained, causing an
overfill, the drain cock valve should be used to bring the water in the boiler to a correct
level (See fig. #13).
Adding Water (continued )

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Filling The Butane Gas Tank
Adding the butane gas is easy. At the front of the tender, you’ll notice a small valve. This
is the place where the butane can is applied to fill the 150-milliliter butane gas tank. Just
align the valves, press the can down, and hold.
Fill using the stem valve on the tender and do not YET open the butane flow valve. Insert
the hose’s nozzle from the tender into the locomotive’s boiler (See. fig. #14). Screw the
nozzle into the loco, so it does not separate accidentally. WARNING!! DO NOT FILL
WHILE SMOKING OR NEAR A FLAME!
Well, the water is loaded, and the next thing we need to do is put in the butane gas. But
where does it go? On a Live Steam Mikado from Aristo-Craft, the butane gas goes in the
tender.
WARNING! Butane is an extremely flammable gas. The content of the
can is under pressure and the vapors are harmful. Read warnings on
the back panel of your can before use. Do not fill your gas tender
around any open flame or while smoking. Use only Butane gas for
cigarette lighters found at most drugstores or general stores. DO NOT
USE PROPANE OR PROPANE & BUTANE MIXTURES AS THE TANK
HAS BEEN PRESET FOR BUTANE ONLY!
fig. #14
Connecting butane hose into the locomotive boiler
There is an enclosed and hidden water well surrounding the butane tank and this must
be filled with warm water to help rapidly vaporize the butane. Please do not use boiling
water, but rather bathtub temperature water.

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It is recommended that you use a thermos bottle of water, easily brought to the running
site, and this water need not be distilled and can come right from a tap. The warm water
needs to be filled in to the warm water bath area with a funnel after removing the screw in
the corner of the depression at the front of the tender, near the butane insert nozzle (See
fig. #15).
Filling The Butane Gas Tank (continued)
Reinserting the screw is optional, but if you are going to transport the tender without
draining the water from the side cock, then you need to reinsert the screw and close it
using a flat-head screwdriver (not included). This will keep the water from spilling out and
possibly damaging the electronics. However, we really recommend draining the water
thoroughly before transport (See fig. #16).
fig. #15
Filling the warm water bath with a funnel
fig. #16
Location of tender side cock for draining of water
The fill needs to be done while on the track, rather than filling elsewhere and then carry-
ing to the track. You can remove the cooled water through the release valve before
refilling with warm water again before actually running and after the steam pressure has
indicated that the train is ready to go.

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With all the required liquids in place and your locomotive on the track, it is time to spark
the ignition flame...
Please be sure first that the gas jet tube is placed in the boiler of the locomotive from the
rear of the tender. The tender should be attached by the drawbar at the back of the
locomotive and the front of the tender to make sure the hose does not pull out of the
locomotive (See fig. #17). Also, remember to screw the hose to the boiler with the sup-
plied connection. (See fig. #18)
Sparking the Ignition Flame
To start your Live Steam Mikado, put the mode switch in the ignition position. Open the
butane flow valve on the tender slightly to release the butane and then press the ignition
button manually. You will hear the rush of the flame ignition. Then you will hear a thump
and a steady whistle once the flame is in progress (See fig. #19).
Open the butane valve further and slowly until a steady flame is in use and this can only
be determined by trial and error.
fig. #18
Attaching butane hose to boiler
fig. #17
Attaching tender drawbar to locomotive
fig. #19
Opening the butane valve

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Next, turn the switch to the position. Turn on the remote control, and replace the cab
cover and the tender as your engine warms up.
The heating process will take about 10 to 15 minutes. If you’ve put too much water in or
there was a residual amount added to in full, the extra water will flow through a drain
valve and exit on to the ground. NOTE! Please use a wrench and gloves or a rag while
handling this valve as the hot water is boiling, not just warm. Never leave your Mikado
unattended while it is warming up and getting up to pressure!
After this point, close the overflow valve. Continue to heat the water and you will notice
the pressure gauge going up. When it rises to 25 psi (pounds per square inch) or 0.25
MPA and the front cylinder valves begins to release steam vapor, the heating process is
over and your train is ready to run (See fig. #20).
Sparking the Ignition Flame (continued)
fig. #20
Locomotive pressure gauge

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Starting Your Locomotive
When the pressure gauge indication shows that the loco is ready to start, move the left
slide switch on the tender’s control panel to “operation” and you will see the indicator light
change from red to green.
Replace the decorative coal load into position over the control panel (See fig. #21). Now
press the speed-up button on the transmitter and the locomotive will begin to run. See
below for the functions available on the transmitter.
This locomotive can pull up to 12 freight cars at a high speed and go up 3% grades
without degradation of the pulling power of the locomotive. However, the running time
may be shortened from the normal 40 minutes with heavier loads.
The radio control transmitter can do the following functions wirelessly:
a) Fast— Increase loco speed
b) Slow— Decrease loco speed
c) Forward / Reverse— Directional control
d) Headlight & Class lights— On/Off
e) Bell sound
f) Whistle sound
g) Chuff sound
To add more water after your butane and water are depleted, you must use the supplied
Goodall valve or you will have the same dangerous reaction as removing a radiator cap
from an overheated radiator instead of refilling the water through an overflow container.
fig. #21
Replacing the coal load

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There is a water bottle with a nozzle that will allow you to put cold water into the boiler
and the special valve will open slightly to allow the cold water in and then reseal itself
when the flow of cold water stops. DO NOT BYPASS THIS STEP IF REFILLING COLD
WATER! (See fig. #22)
Starting Your Locomotive (continued)
fig. #22
Adding water through the Goodall valve
The butane can be refilled at any time before or when your engine slows down or stops
do to running out of the water or gas.