ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS LIVE STEAM 0-4-0 Engine User manual

121809NEW
ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS
LIVE STEAM 0-4-0 Engine
INSTRUCTION MANUAL ART-84200-01

Page 2
Dear Model Railroader,
Congratulations on your purchase of the Aristo-Craft 1:29 scale Live Steam 0-4-0!
The fun of running a locomotive as they were intended to with real steam power is the key part of this
locomotive and the technical hard work is done by the magic of our technology that takes much work
out of the project and leaves more running time for enjoyment.
Should you have any questions regarding operation, proper usage or maintenance required on this or
any other Aristo-Craft product, please do not hesitate to contact us at the following address:
ARISTO-CRAFT TRAINS / Polk’s Model Craft Hobbies, Inc.
698 South 21st Street, Irvington, NJ 07111 USA
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
e-mail: [email protected]
Our customer service department phones are open from
10:00 AM to 4:00 PM
Eastern time, Monday through Friday.
Visit our website: www.aristocraft.com
© 2009 Polk’s Model Craft Hobbies, Inc.

Page 3
Features
This locomotive has the following features and accessories, which make it look and operate in a
superior manner:
An integrated radio control system for forward speed control, reversing, and to activate several
sound effects. This R/C system operates on the universally accepted 49 mhz frequency and is FCC-
approved in the U.S.
A well for a warm water bath for the Butane gas.
Auto-ignition for the flame using the tender control panel.
Easy-to-use-and-find butane fuel.
Wide-mouth oil access. (Oil not included)
D.C. electric motors for radio-controlled reverse and speed controls.
A wall charger.
A NiCad battery pack to operate these electronic functions.
Tools: such as two syringes for filling and removing the steam oil, a metal funnel to fill the boiler and
Butane bath, two metal screwdrivers for the live steamer locomotive adjustments and others.
Additional mechanical boiler functions to make maintenance as easy as possible.
Insulated wheels for running on electrically powered layouts with other locos.

Page 4
Locomotive History
Around 1870 the 0-4-0 appeared, as a switch engine. These engines were newly designed
locomotives, with horizontal boilers and an improved suspension system capable of handling
irregular track. They readily found a home in railroad yards.
At the height of their popularity over 1,500 were in service.
As trains grew heavier, the 0-4-0 lost favor to another engine with more power, the 0-6-0, which by
the turn of the century had become the standard yard engine. While it could not compete with the
0-6-0 in tractive effort, the 0-4-0 was still very flexible and could accommodate tight curves and
clearances.
It was the ideal engine for switching cars on industrial spurs and waterfront docks. Throughout the
1940s, the Pennsylvania Railroad switched the harbor areas in Philadelphia with 0-4-0s. Reading’s
camelback 0-4-0s also worked the Philadelphia waterfront. One of the Reading engines still exists
today on the Strasburg Railroad in Pennsylvania. Baltimore & Ohio's oil-burning 0-4-0T saddle-
tankers patrolled Pratt Street and the docks in Baltimore.
Smaller locomotive builders such as Porter and Davenport built many 0-4-0 tank engines for short
lines and for private industrial applications. Several of these locomotives lasted late into the Diesel
era.

Page 5
R/C System / Battery Charging Preparation
The very first step is to charge the NiCad battery pack located
inside the tender of the locomotive. There is an included wall
pack that must be plugged into a wall outlet first and has a jack
plug to insert into a receptacle jack on the top of the tender. (See
Figure at right).
First move the “Off-On” switch to the “Off” position (left
direction) and then plug the charger lead into the battery
charging connection power jack at the top. The indicator light
beneath the jack will turn to orange for the approximately
three-hour charge time. The light will change from orange to
green after the charge is reached. The charger will go into a safe
trickle mode once the full charge is reached. The first charge-
up may take overnight, but will re-charge faster the second
time. After a full charge time the charge is complete and you
can begin the testing phase of operation.

Page 6
R/C System Testing Process
To begin the function testing process, link the plug in
front of the tender to the socket at the end of the wire
coming from the rear of the locomotive. (see illustration
at right). This allows all R/C and electronic functions
from the control panel of the tender to function in a
manual mode without the use of the transmitter.
1) Connect the tender’s drawbar to the locomotive.
2) Push the slide switch to the “On” position (right)
and you will see a red indicator light turn on.
3) Now you can test the sound buttons and the headlight button. These remain in operation until
depressed a second time.
PLUG
SOCKET

Page 7
Remote Mode Testing
Now it is time to test the R/C system transmitter and functions . . .
1) Install R/C transmitter’s battery by removing the battery cover screws, and insert the provided
9v alkaline battery.
2) The extendable antenna needs to be screwed into the transmitter through the opening on the
top right of the transmitter. The antenna should be extended during the test phase as well as
during regular operation.
3) There is a six-position dip encoder switch on the tender that must be matched to the encoder switch
order that is located on the inside of your transmitter. This dipswitch encoder allows for up to 620
people operating their Live Steam Train simultaneously without one interfering with the other.
4) Push the slide switch on the tender from “Off” to “On”. The R/C hand-held transmitter will
take over control of your locomotive, allowing you to perform the same functions you just tested
manually.
5) Repeat the same testing functions that you performed in the manual mode.
Note that the transmitter’s speed throttle needs to be in the center position before operation.
Press FAST to the full open position and then press the SLOW button for 8 seconds. This will
center the speed throttle. Pressing the SLOW button a second time will reverse the locomotive.
NOTE! The ignition switch for the butane is not on the transmitter for safety reasons, so that you
do not ignite the flame unintentionally. Please use the switch on the tender's panel for ignition.

Page 8
Adding Lubrication
The next step is adding steam oil to the loco . . .
This locomotive is a steam vapor-propelled device and as such REQUIRES A HIGH-
TEMPERATURE LUBRICATING STEAM OIL ONLY!
The steam oil is not necessarily included in the package, but should be found at the same retailer that
has sold you the locomotive and/or from Aristo-Craft itself.
Two syringes are included with this locomotive for fill and removal of steam oil. Ignore the one-time
use label as this note is for medical use only.
NOTE! The fill of the oil is done in stages and the cover of the oil fill tube needs to be screwed closed
after the oil is inserted each time the process is done. Move the locomotive forward only, not in
reverse, to push the oil into position. Repeat this process two or three times and on the last fill tighten
the access cover securely. A total of 4 ml of oil, as indicated on the syringe side, is the most oil that
should be added at least every second run depending on the lengths of the runs.
The lubrication, after the fill, is continuous and automatic during the operation of the locomotive.
After operation, any used oil remainder needs to be sucked out via the same type of syringe used to
fill the oil reserve shown and needs to be refilled at least every two runs.
DO NOT RUN WITHOUT THE REQUIRED STEAM OIL!

Page 9
SIGHT GLASS
SIGHT GLASS
OIL FILL TUBE
WATER FILL SHOWN
WITH FUNNEL IN PLACE
PRESSURE
GAUGE

Page 10
Adding Water to the Boiler
The next step is adding water into the boiler. At this point, your locomotive should already be placed
on the track at full stop. Please drain all leftover water, so that your new fill can be precise.
NOTE! ONLY DISTILLED WATER IS PERMITTED TO BE USED OR YOU WILL
DAMAGE YOUR 100% COPPER BOILER! Distilled water is easily found at most drug stores
and supermarkets.
Unscrew and remove the cover of the water fill inlet and add 240 ml of the distilled water with a
measuring cup. This will normally be less than one cup (240 ml is suggested) if the boiler is empty.
Re-attach the filler cap and tighten with a wrench until the cap is secure.
We recommend you use a clear water cup with measurements indicated.
This fill should be done while the locomotive is already on the tracks and should be done using the
supplied metal funnel into the opening. (See illustration on Page 9).
Check the boiler water sight glass to make sure the water level is at least 2/3's filled.
NOTE!
You must let the boiling water cool down before removing water or adding more water to run
the engine again. This will normally take about 15 minutes, but removing the cap before it's
cooled is like removing a radiator cap on your car when it's still hot.
DO NOT BYPASS THIS STEP IF REFILLING WITH COLD WATER!