Ashley AW180 User manual

SAFETY NOTICE:
If this heater is not properly installed, a house fire may
result. For your safety, follow the installation instructions.
Never use make-shift compromises during the installation
of this heater. Contact local building or fire officials about
permits, restrictions and installation requirements in your area.
CAUTION!
Please read this entire manual before you install or use
your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions may
result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
Improper Installation Could Void Your Warranty!
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
THIS MANUAL WILL HELP YOU TO OBTAIN EFFICIENT, DEPENDABLE SERVICE FROM THE HEATER, AND ENABLE YOU
TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS CORRECTLY. KEEP IN A SAFE PLACE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
French version is available for download from the U. S. Stove website: http://www.usstove.com/
La version française est disponible pour téléchargement à partir du site U. S. Stove: http://www.usstove.com/
Approved for installation in the USA and Canada
CONFORMS TO UL 1482, AND CERTIFIED TO ULC-S627 AND ULC-S628
Also suitable for use in a Mobile or Manufactured home. (USA Only)
852396-1904E
MODEL: AW180
U. S. Stove
227 Industrial Park Road P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
[phone] • www.usstove.com
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Certified to comply with 2015 particulate emissions standards.

2
CAUTIONS:
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO IGNITE THE FIRE.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED.
DO NOT BURN GARBAGE, FLAMMABLE FLUID SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA OR MOTOR OIL.
DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCTWORK
UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATIONS.
ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER THE IGNITION.
CONSULT YOUR MUNICIPAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT PERMITS,
RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATIONS REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Combustible : Wood
Colors : Metallic Black
Flue Pipe Diameter : 6” (153cm)
Flue Pipe Type: (Standard Single Wall or Double Wall): Black or Blued Steel 2100°F (650°C)
Minimum Chimney Height : 12’ (3.7m)
Maximum Log Length : 12” (304mm)
Electrical 110 Volt, 60 Hz, 31 Watt
Dimensions
Overall : (without Pedestal, Legs or Facade)
Depth x Width x Height :
25.5” x 29.5” x 27” (655mm x 749mm x 685mm)
Combustion Chamber :
Width x Depth :
12.7” x 11.9” (322mm x 302mm)
Volume :
Cubic Feet:
0.75 cubic feet
Door Opening : Width x Height: 16.8” x 9” (406mm x 228mm)
Pyroceramic Glass Door : (Viewing) Width x Height: 17” x 10” (431mm x 254mm)
Weight (lbs): 433
SPECIFICATIONS
This manual describes the installation and operation of the Ashley, AW180 wood heater. This heater meets the 2015 U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency's crib wood emission limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2015. Under specific test conditions
this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 9,550 to 25,696 Btu/hr.
Note: The BTU ratings mentioned above are based on the EPA test protocol burning dimensional Douglas Fir lumber. Our advertised
BTU’s are based on the first hour of operation at high burn rate burning cordwood.
CONGRATULATIONS!
You’ve purchased a heater from North America’s oldest manufacturer of wood burning products.
By heating with wood you’re helping to CONSERVE ENERGY!
Wood is our only Renewable Energy Resource. Please do your part to preserve our wood supply. Plant at least one tree each year.
Future generations will thank you.

3
UNPACK AND INSPECT
Remove the packing from the appliance and inspect for any damage. Ensure that the bricks are positioned correctly and not broken
(see illustration for proper brick arrangement). Make sure that the baffle board, above the air tubes, is in place and undamaged. DO
NOT remove the baffle board.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
You must choose one of the three offered kits:
A) Pedestal Kit (SA180P)
B) Leg Kit (SA180L)
C) Fireplace Insert (SA180i)
Refer to the instructions found inside each kit for proper assembly.
A 7/16” socket wrench
A 5/16” socket (Best if using a power drill and a socket bit)
A pair of pliers or channel-locks
A power drill with an 1/8” drill bit to install sheet metal screws into connector pipe.
Sheet metal screws
A non-combustible floor protector as specified in this manual
All chimney and chimney connector components required for your particular venting installation.
PRE-ASSEMBLY
BRICK CONFIGURATION

4
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
This appliance is offered in three different configurations of which you get to choose. You have the option to install your new heater
as a freestanding heater on a pedestal,on legs or as a fireplace insert. You must purchase the desired kit separately from your
appliance dealer. Read and follow the directions in this manual and inside the chosen kit to ensure proper assembly, installation
and operation of your new wood heater.
While installing the desired kit you must install the primary air damper. The damper is shipped in place. Simply secure the damper
limit screw through the damper’s slot and into the pre-threaded hole.
Caution! The appliance is very heavy.
The assistance from a second person is strongly suggested. Please use proper lifting technic when positioning the appliance for
assembly and installation. Several methods may be used to attach the legs and pedestal to the appliance. The safest method is to roll
the appliance on its back, then attach the chosen assembly. When using this method, you should first remove the firebrick from the
unit so as to reduce weight and possible breakage. It will be required to raise the bottom of the unit up to attach two of the legs or
the pedestal. It is recommended that you use cardboard or other means of padding to protect the finish on your new stove.
FREESTANDING LEG ASSEMBLY
1) Unpack the kit and ensure all components are present:
Qty Description Part #
4 Cast Iron Legs 40566
8 1/4-20 UNC Bolts 83339
8 Flat Washers 83045A
2) Position the unit for assembly.
3) Using the Eight(8) 1/4-20 bolts and washers provided, attach the legs.
4) Rotate the appliance onto the legs, being careful not to damage the
legs while doing so.
5) Make sure that the baffle board, above the air tubes, is in place and
undamaged. DO NOT remove the baffle board.
6) Install the screw provided in the parts bag into the secondary air
damper, where shown.
FREESTANDING PEDESTAL ASSEMBLY
The pedestal should come assembled to the base, ready to install on your appliance. You can either roll the appliance onto its back
as above or locate the pedestal assembly in the approximate final location, then
set the appliance atop the pedestal.
Caution! The appliance is very heavy.
1) Unpack the Pedestal Assembly and ensure all components are present:
Qty Description Part #
1 Pedestal Assembly
8 #10x1/2 Hex Head Screw 83343
2) Position the appliance for assembly.
3) Attach the pedestal to the bottom of the unit using Two (2) bolts provided.
4) Attach the pedestal back to the pedestal using four(4) sheetmetal screws
provided.
5) Make sure that the baffle board, above the air tubes, is in place and
undamaged. DO NOT remove the baffle board.
6) If an outside combustion air source is needed see the “5.1 Combustion
Air Assembly Instructions” section in this manual.
Damper retaining screw

5
ASSEMBLY
6
10 9
7
8
3
2
5
4
1
Kit Contents
Key Part Description Qty.
1 26414 Clamp, Top Trim 1
2 26735 Right Panel, Facade 1
3 26736 Left Panel, Facade 1
4 26734 Central Panel, Facade 1
5 892455-3 Trim, Facade Side-Left 1
6 891435-1 Trim, Facade Top-Left 1
7 891435-2 Trim, Facade Top-Right 1
8 892455-4 Trim, Facade Side-Right 1
9 444-1B-S-2 Corner Key W/ Screw 2
10 444-2 Blank Corner Key 2
INSERT KEYS BEHIND FLANGE OF TRIM AS
SHOWN. BLANK CORNER KEY MUST BE IN-
STALLED FIRST. INSERT SECOND KEY. ADJUST
TRIM AND TIGHTEN SET SCREWS.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
1. Position stove in fireplace. Align facade panels with fireplace
and top of stove. The panels should be flat against the fireplace
and standing vertical.
Notes: The side facade pieces go behind the top
piece.
The facade must be installed before unit is set
into its final position.
2. Mark the location of the facade panels along the top of the
stove with a pencil. The mark will be used to realign the panels
later.
3. Slide stove out of fireplace far enough to be able to work
behind facade panels.
4. Realign the first side panel with the mark made previously.
5. Using the predrilled holes in the facade panel as a guide; mark
and drill holes for the self tapping screws used to mount the
facade panel. See illustration on right below.
Note: Align the mounting screws with the center of the
predrilled holes to allow for adjustment.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other side panel.
7. Attach side panel trim as shown. See illustration on left below.
8. Attach top panel retainer with two self tapping screws.
9. Ensure venting is attached properly.
10. Align the top panel with the retainer and side panels
11. Attach top panel trim.
Note: Stove and facade panels should realign with fireplace to
allow the panels to be flat against fireplace and standing
vertically.

6
INSTALLATION
POSITIONING THE STOVE
It is very important to position the stove as close as possible to the chimney, and in an area that will favor the most efficient heat
distribution possible throughout the house. The stove must therefore be installed in the room where the most time is spent, and in
the most spacious room possible. Recall that stoves produce radiating heat, the heat we feel when we are close to a stove. A stove
also functions by convection, that is through the displacement of hot air accelerated upwards and its replacement with cooler air. If
necessary, the hot air distribution from the stove may be facilitated by the use of a fan or blower.
• Do not place any combustible material within 4’ (1.2m) of
the front of the unit.
• The clearance between the flue pipe and a wall are valid only
for vertical walls and for vertical flue pipe.
• The chimney connector must not pass through an attic or roof
space, closet or similar concealed space, a floor, or a ceiling.
• For Canadian installations, where passage through a wall,
or partition of combustible construction is desired, the
installation must conform to CAN/CSA-B365.
• A flue pipe crossing a combustible wall must have a minimum
clearance of 18” (457.2mm).
• To reduce flue clearances from combustible materials, contact
your local safety department.
Back wall / Arrière Mur
Side wall / Paroi Latérale Side wall / Paroi Latérale
Sd
e
a
/
a
o
at
éa
e
E
E
D
D
Ceiling / Plafond
Back wall / Arrière Mur
Floor Protector / Protection de Plancher
g
F
G
Back wall / Arrière Mur
Side wall / Paroi Latérale Side wall / Paroi Latérale
Sde a / ao atéae
C
B
A
Dimension Inch mm
A Backwall to Stove 12 305
B Sidewall to Stove 12 305
C Sidewall to Flue 13 330
D Wall to Stove (Angled Installation) 8 203
E Wall to Flue (Angled Installation) 8 203
F Ceiling Height 84 2133
G Backwall to Flue 13 330
FREE STANDING STOVE INSTALLATION
A stove must never be installed in a hallway or near a staircase, since it may block the way in case of fire or fail to respect required
clearances. It is of the utmost importance that the clearances to combustible materials be strictly adhered to during installation of the
stove. Refer to the table and diagrams below for minimum required clearances.
SAFETY NOTICE
IF THIS STOVE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. TO REDUCE THE RISK OF
FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.
CONSULT YOUR MUNICIPAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT PERMITS,
RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATIONS REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
USE SMOKE DETECTORS IN THE ROOM WHERE YOUR STOVE IS INSTALLED.
SMOKE EXPELLED FROM THE UNIT, BY EITHER PAINT CURING, OPENING THE FUEL LOADING DOOR,
OR A NEGATIVE PRESSURE INSIDE THE HOME, COULD TRIGGER THE SMOKE DETECTORS. MOUNT
SMOKE DETECTORS AT LEAST 10’ FROM STOVE
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID,
OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR “FRESHEN UP” A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS
WELL AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN USE.
IN THE EVENT OF A CHIMNEY FIRE, PUSH THE AIR CONTROL FULL CLOSED TO DEPRIVE THE FIRE OF
OXYGEN. CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.
A SOURCE OF FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM OR SPACE HEATED SHALL BE PROVIDED WHEN REQUIRED.
ROOM HEATER, SOLID FUEL TYPE, ALSO FOR USE IN MOBILE HOMES.

7
INSTALLATION
K
H
L
J
MM
FLOOR PROTECTOR
The stove must be placed on solid concrete, solid masonry, or when installed on a combustible floor, on a Type 2 floor protector
listed to standard UL 1618 with a minimum R value of 1.03 and a minimum thickness of 1/2” or equivalent. The floor protector is
required to provide heat, live ember, and ash protection and must be of a non-combustible, continuous solid surface to protect against
infiltration of live embers and ash. For UL Listed floor protectors, refer to manufacturers instructions for installation directions.
Manufacturers of listed floor protectors include Imperial Metal Products and Hy-C among others. To calculate R-Values for alternative
methods, see Alternate Floor Protector Calculation Methods in the back of this manual.
Dimension Inch mm
H* Front 9 229
J Flue rear 2 51
K** Left 8 203
L** Right 8 203
M Flue Side 2 51
Canadian installations require 18” (457mm)
Canadian installations require 8” (203mm)
INSERT STOVE INSTALLATION
The installer must attach a metal tag as required by UL1482 Clause 5.1.11 using screws or nails to the fireplace, in a location readily
visible should the fireplace insert be removed, if the fireplace has been modified to accommodate the fireplace insert.
H
B
H
A
E
FG
D
A
I
C
Thermal Protection Requirements
ABCDEF GH I
948 32 1/2 9 16 21 8 12

8
SPECIAL MOBILE HOME REQUIREMENTS
WARNING! - Do not install in a sleeping room
CAUTION! - The structural integrity of the mobile home floor, wall, and ceiling/roof must be maintained.
In addition to the previously detailed installation requirements, mobile home installations must meet the following requirements:
• The heater must be permanently attached to the floor.
1. There are two holes in the pedestal base, use 3/8” bolts through the floor.
2. To attach the leg model use two 3/8-16 UNC bolts through the floor.
• The heater must be electrically grounded to the steel chassis of the mobile home with 8 GA copper wire using a serrated or star
washer to penetrate paint or protective coating to ensure grounding.
• When moving your mobile home, all exterior venting must be removed while the mobile home is being relocated. After relocation,
all venting must be reinstalled and securely fastened.
• Outside Air is mandatory for mobile home installation. See your dealer for purchasing.
• Check with your local building officials as other codes may apply.
MOBILE HOME ATTACHEMENT
INSTALLATION

9
COMBUSTION AIR ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
This appliance requires a source of combustion air. If your home is of tight construction or has negative pressure problems, you
will need an outside source of air. Below is a list of possible indicators that a source of outside combustion air may be required.
1. Your stove does not draw steadily, smoke rollout occurs, wood burns poorly, or back-drafts occur whether or not there is
combustion present.
2. Existing fuel-fired equipment in the house, such as fireplaces or other heating appliances, smell, do not operate properly, suffer
smoke roll-out when opened, or back-drafts occur whether or not there is combustion present.
3. Opening a window slightly on a calm (windless) day alleviates any of the above symptoms.
4. The house is equipped with a well-sealed vapor barrier and tight fitting windows and/or has any powered devices that exhaust
house air.
5. There is excessive condensation on windows in the winter.
6. A ventilation system is installed in the house.
If an outside air intake is required. You have two options. You may cut a rectangular hole in the floor of your home and the floor
protector, or purchase a standard 4” Dryer Vent kit from your local hardware supply store and install it on the rear of the pedestal.
“INTAKE VENTING KIT”
INSTALLATION
If using a Intake venting kit, the outlet cover must be of a design that DOES NOT close by means of a flap or trap door.
You must purchase a style that allows a continuous in-flow of air and that has a rodent screen.
“INTAKE VENTING KIT” INSTALLATION:
First using a pair of pliers or other means, remove the metal plate from the back of the pedestal and bend the tabs out. Follow the
manufacturer’s installation instructions for attaching the dryer vent kit to the home. Then attach it to the appliance.
VENTILATION

10
CHIMNEY
Your wood stove may be hooked up with a factory built or masonry chimney, matching the diameter of the stove exhaust. If you
are using a factory built chimney, it must comply with UL 103 or CSA-B365 standard; therefore it must be a Type HT (2100°F). It
is extremely important that it be installed according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Take into account the chimney’s location
to insure it is not too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause unhealthy or nuisance conditions.
If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the specifications of the National Building
Code. It must be lined with fire clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. (Round flues are the most efficient).
The interior diameter of the chimney flue must be identical to the stove smoke exhaust. A flue which is too small may cause draft
problems, while a large flue favors rapid cooling of the gas, and hence the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney fires. Note
that it is the chimney and not the stove which creates the draft effect; your stove’s performance is directly dependent on an adequate
draft from your chimney.
Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:
• It must rise above the roof at least 3’ (0.9m) from the uppermost point of contact.
• The exterior portion should be double or triple wall pipe to ensure proper draft.
• The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10’ (3.04m) distance by a height of 2’ (0.6m).
• Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. The interior chimney will be hotter than an
exterior chimney that is being cooled by the ambient air outside the house. Therefore the gas which circulates will cool slower,
thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney fires.
• The draft caused by the tendency for hot air to rise will be increased with an interior chimney.
• Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is not obstructed thus
blocking the draft, and it should be cleaned when used regularly.
VENTILATION

11
INSTALLATION INTO A MASONRY FIREPLACE
Ashley recommends the use of a full liner where a stainless steel rigid or flexible linear pipe is routed from the insert outlet collar
to the top of the chimney.
Multiple installation methods may be available in your area. Check with local building officials for any permits required for
installation of this unit and notify your insurance company before proceeding with installation.
1) Clean the fireplace opening properly disposing of any ashes in a closed metal container. See Safety Instructions.
2) Install a continuous stainless steel chimney liner into the existing chimney. Follow liner manufacturer installation instructions.
• The liner must extend to the top of the existing chimney.
• The interior diameter of the chimney flue must be identical to the stove smoke exhaust.
• Use only listed chimney liners that meet UL1777 standards.
3) Remove or lock the fireplace damper in the open position. Note: Masonry or damper plate may be removed to accommodate the
chimney liner provided this does not weaken any structural components of the existing fireplace or chimney nor reduces protection
of combustible materials required by national building codes. Consult with your local building or fire authority before doing this.
WARNING: Any fireplace which has had parts removed or modified to accommodate the installation of this appliance
MUST have a warning plate permanently installed in a visible location stating that the fireplace is unfit for use with solid
fuel. Permanently attach the warning plate to a visible location in the fireplace.
4) Uncrate the appliance, remove all packing materials, and any items stored in the firebox.
5) Position the appliance into the fireplace opening.
6) If necessary 1/4-20 leveling bolts can be inserted into the base and used as levelers for uneven fireplaces.
7) Connect the chimney liner to the appliance using a stainless steel adapter and securing with a minimum of three (3) sheet metal
screws. The liner MUST be attached with the male (or crimped) end of the adapter inside the flue collar of the appliance to allow
condensation and/or creosote to drain back into the firebox.
8) Assemble the facade. See “3.4 INSERT FIREPLACE FACADE ASSEMBLY” section for instruction on facade assembly
and installation.
VENTILATION

12
MASONRY CHIMNEY
Ensure that a masonry chimney meets the minimum standards of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) by having it
inspected by a professional. Make sure there are no cracks, loose mortar or other signs of deterioration and blockage. Have the
chimney cleaned before the stove is installed and operated. When connecting the stove through a combustible wall to a masonry
chimney, special methods are needed as explained in the “5.5 Combustible Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs” Section.
VENTILATION

13
COMBUSTIBLE WALL CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PASS-THROUGHS
Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member:
Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm) brick and a 5/8” (15.9 mm)
minimum wall thickness clay liner, construct a wall pass-through. The clay
liner must conform to ASTM C315 (Standard Specification for Clay Fire
Linings) or its equivalent. Keep a minimum of 12” (304.8 mm) of brick
masonry between the clay liner and wall combustibles. The clay liner
shall run from the brick masonry outer surface to the inner surface of the
chimney flue liner but not past the inner surface. Firmly grout or cement
the clay liner in place to the chimney flue liner.
Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member: Using
a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed, factory-built Solid-Pak chimney
section with insulation of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build a wall pass-through
with a minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer wall of the
chimney length and wall combustibles. Use sheet metal supports fastened
securely to wall surfaces on all sides, to maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air
space. When fastening supports to chimney length, do not penetrate the
chimney liner (the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney). The inner end of
the Solid-Pak chimney section shall be flush with the inside of the masonry
chimney flue, and sealed with a non-water soluble refractory cement. Use
this cement to also seal to the brick masonry penetration.
Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member:
Starting with a minimum 24 gauge (.024” [.61 mm]) 6” (152.4 mm) metal
chimney connector, and a minimum 24 gauge ventilated wall thimble which
has two air channels of 1” (25.4 mm) each, construct a wall pass-through.
There shall be a minimum 6” (152.4) mm separation area containing
fiberglass insulation, from the outer surface of the wall thimble to wall
combustibles. Support the wall thimble, and cover its opening with a
24-gauge minimum sheet metal support. Maintain the 6” (152.4 mm) space.
There should also be a support sized to fit and hold the metal chimney
connector. See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces on
all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure the metal chimney connector
do not penetrate chimney flue liner.
Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member: Start
with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney section at least 12” (304 mm)
long, with insulation of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, and an inside diameter of 8”
(2 inches [51 mm] larger than the 6” [152.4 mm] chimney connector). Use
this as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gauge single wall steel chimney
connector. Keep solid-pak section concentric with and spaced 1” (25.4
mm) off the chimney connector by way of sheet metal support plates at
both ends of chimney section. Cover opening with and support chimney
section on both sides with 24 gauge minimum sheet metal supports. See
that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces on all sides. Make
sure fasteners used to secure chimney flue do not penetrate flue liner.
NOTES:
Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through the wall pass-through
system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner flue liner face.
A chimney connector shall not pass through an attic or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, or a floor, or ceiling.
VENTILATION

14
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR (STOVE PIPE)
Your chimney connector and chimney must have the same diameter as the stove outlet. If this is not the case, we recommend you
contact your dealer in order to insure there will be no problem with the draft.
The stove pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll steel with a minimum thickness of 0.021” or 0.53 mm. It is strictly forbidden
to use galvanized steel.
Your stove pipe should be assembled in such a way that the male section (crimped end) of the pipe faces down. Attach each of the
sections to one another with three equidistant metal screws. Seal the joints with furnace cement. The stove pipe must be fastened to
the stove by at least two screws or other equivalent mechanical methods.
The pipe must be short and straight. All sections installed horizontally must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot, with the upper end of
the section toward the chimney. Any installation with a horizontal run of stove pipe must conform to NFPA 211. You may contact
NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) and request the latest edition of the NFPA Standard 211.
To insure a good draft, the total length of the stove pipe should never exceed 8’ to 10’ (2.4m to 3.04 m). (Except for cases of
vertical installation, cathedral-roof style where the smoke exhaust system can be much longer and connected without problem to
the chimney at the ceiling of the room).
There should never be more than two 90 degrees elbows in the smoke exhaust system.
Installation of a “barometric draft stabilizer” (fireplace register) on a smoke exhaust system is prohibited.
Furthermore, installation of a draft damper is not recommended. With a controlled combustion wood stoves the draft is regulated
upon intake of the combustion air in the stove and not at the exhaust.
To
Appliance
IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT
‘Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney depends on
the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions and other factors. Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures
in the appliance. Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing into the room and ‘plugging’ of the chimney.
“Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room through appliance and chimney connector joints.”
“An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft.”
VENTILATION

15
FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY
When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed. You must also purchase
(from the same manufacturer) and install the ceiling support package or wall pass-through and “T” section package, firestops (where
needed), insulation shield, roof flashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain proper clearance to the structure as recommended by the
manufacturer. The chimney must be the required height above the roof or other obstructions for safety and proper draft operation.
VENTILATION

16
TYPE WEIGHT
(LBS. CU. FT., DRY)
PER CORD EFFICIENCY
RANKING
SPLITS MILLIONS
BTU’s/CORD
Hickory 63 4500 1.0 Well 31.5
White Oak 48 4100 .9 Fair 28.6
Red Oak 46 3900 .8 Fair 27.4
Beech 45 3800 .7 Hard 26.8
Sugar Maple 44 3700 .6 Fair 26.2
Black Oak 43 3700 .6 Fair 25.6
Ash 42 3600 .5 Well 25.0
Yellow Birch 40 3400 .4 Hard 23.8
Red Maple 38 3200 .3 Fair 22.6
Paper Birch 37 3100 .3 Easy 22.1
Elm/Sycamore 34 2900 .2 Very Difficult 20.1
Red Spruce 29 1800 .1 Easy 16.1
WOODSTOVE UTILIZATION
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you use DRY WOOD only in your wood oven. The wood should have dried for 9 to 15
months, such that the humidity content (in weight) is reduced below 20% of the weight of the log. It is very important to keep in mind
that even if the wood has been cut for one, two or even more years, it is not necessarily dry, if it has been stored in poor conditions.
Under extreme conditions it may rot, instead of drying. This point cannot be over stressed; the vast majority of the problems related
to the operation of a wood oven is caused by the fact that the wood used was too damp or has dried in poor conditions.
These problems can be:
• Ignition problems
• Creosote build-up causing chimney fires
• Low energy yield
• Blackened windows
• Incomplete log combustion
Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. All logs exceeding 6” in diameter should be split. The wood should not be stored directly
on the ground. Air should circulate through the cord. A 24” to 48” air space should be left between each row of logs, which should
be placed in the sunniest location possible. The upper layer of wood should be protected from the elements but not the sides.
This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried
seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.
Dead wood lying on the forest floor should be considered wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead wood can usually
be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. Splitting and stacking wood before it is stored accelerates drying time. Storing wood on
an elevated surface from the ground and under a cover or covered area from rain or snow also accelerates drying time. A good
indicator if wood is ready to burn is to check the piece ends. If there are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then the
wood should be dry enough to burn. If your wood sizzles in the fire, even though the surface is dry, it may not be fully cured, and
should be seasoned longer
Waste and other flammable materials should not be burned in your oven. Any type of wood may be used in your oven, but specific
varieties have better energy yields than others. Please consult the following table in order to make the best possible choice.
1. Garbage;
2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
4. Materials containing plastic;
5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint thinners, or
asphalt products;
6. Materials containing asbestos;
7. Construction or demolition debris;
8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
9. Manure or animal remains;
10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water saturated
materials;
11. Unseasoned wood; or
12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particleboard.
The prohibition against burning these materials does not
prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper, cardboard,
saw dust, wax and similar substances for the purpose of
starting a fire in an affected wood heater.

17
WOODSTOVE UTILIZATION
TESTING YOUR WOOD
When the oven is thoroughly warmed, place one piece of split wood (about five inches in diameter) parallel to the door on the
bed of red embers.
Keep the air control full open by pulling on it and close the door. If ignition of the piece is accomplished within 90 seconds from
the time if was placed in the oven, your wood is correctly dried. If ignition takes longer, your wood is damp.
If your wood hisses and water or vapor escapes at the ends of the piece, your wood is soaked or freshly cut. Do not use this wood
in your oven. Large amounts of creosote could be deposited in your chimney, creating potential conditions for a chimney fire.
TAMPER WARNING
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter
this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
THE FIRST FIRES
The fresh paint on your stove needs to be cured to preserve its quality. Once the fuel charge is properly ignited, only burn small
fires in your stove for the first four hours of operation. Never open the air control more than necessary to achieve a medium burn rate.
Make sure that there’s enough air circulation while curing the stove. The odors could be smelled during the 3 or 4 first fires. Never
start your stove outside. You will not be able to see if you are over heating.
IGNITION
After making sure that the stove air intake controls are fully open (completely pull-out towards you), place several rumpled sheets
of paper in the center of the combustion chamber. Place 8 to 10 pieces of small dry kindling wood over the paper in the form of a tent.
You may also place a few pieces of heating wood, but choose the smaller ones. No chemical product should be used to light the fire.
Before igniting the paper and kindling wood, it is recommended that you warm up the chimney. This is done in order to avoid
back draft problems often due to negative pressure in the house. If such is the case, open a window slightly near the stove and twist
together a few sheets of newspaper into a torch. Light up this paper torch and hold it as close as possible to the mouth of the pipe
inside the combustion chamber to warm up the chimney. Once the updraft movement is initiated, you are ready to ignite the stove
by lighting the paper and kindling wood inside the combustion chamber.
When you have achieved a good bed of hot embers, we recommend the following burn procedures:
CAUTION: Never alter the damper slide or the adjustment range to increase firing for any reason. Doing so could result
in heater damage and will void your warranty.
CAUTIONS:
ASHES COULD CONTAIN HOT EMBERS EVEN AFTER TWO DAYS WITHOUT OPERATING THE STOVE.
THE ASH PAN CAN BECOME VERY HOT. WEAR GLOVES TO PREVENT INJURY.
NEVER BURN THE STOVE WITH THE STOVE DOOR OR ASH CLEAN OUT OPENING UNSEALED . THIS
WOULD RESULT IN OVER FIRING THE STOVE. DAMAGE TO THE STOVE AND EVEN HOUSE FIRE MAY
RESULT.
AW180
Primary Air Settings
(Slide Damper is located in center of stove under hearth plate)
(Damper Adjustment: Pulling out on damper decreases air)
Electric Blower Speed Setting (Variable)
(Blower is on High when turned “ON”,
Rotate clockwise until stop for “LOW”.)
Burn Rate Adjust Damper from fully closed Burn Time Blower Speed
Low 3/16” (4.7mm) @ 30 minutes Low
Medium - Low 1/4” (6.4mm) @ 30 minutes Low
Medium - High 9/32” (7.1mm) @ 30 minutes Low
High 3/4” (19mm) all minutes High
The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an effective method of determining how efficiently the combustion process
is taking place at the given settings. Visible smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture leaving your stove. Learn to adjust the air
settings of your specific unit to produce the smallest amount of visible smoke. Wood that has not been seasoned properly and has a
high wood moisture content will produce excess visible smoke and burn poorly.

18
WARNINGS
NEVER OVERFIRE YOUR STOVE. IF ANY PART OF THE STOVE STARTS TO GLOW RED, OVER FIRING IS
HAPPENING. READJUST THE AIR INTAKE CONTROL AT A LOWER SETTING.
THE INSTALLATION OF A LOG CRADLE OR GRATES IS NOT RECOMMENDED IN YOUR WOOD STOVE.
BUILD FIRE DIRECTLY ON FIREBRICK.
NEVER PUT WOOD ABOVE THE FIREBRICK LINING OF THE FIREBOX.
ATTEMPTS TO ACHIEVE HEAT OUTPUT RATES THAT EXCEED HEATER DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS CAN
RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE HEATER.
OPERATION
Controlled combustion is the most efficient technique for wood heating because it enables you to select the type of combustion you
want for each given situation. The wood will burn slowly if the wood stove air intake control is adjusted to reduce the oxygen supply
in the combustion chamber to a minimum. On the other hand, wood will burn quickly if the air control is adjusted to admit a larger
quantity of oxygen in the combustion chamber. The air intake control on your stove is very simple. If you pull on it out completely
towards you, it is fully open. If you push on it until it stops the combustion air is reduced to a minimum. Real operating conditions
may give very different results than those obtained during testing according to the species of wood used, its moisture content, the
size and density of the pieces, the length of the chimney, altitude and outside temperature.
Efficiencies can be based on either the lower heating value (LHV) or the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel. The lower heating
value is when water leaves the combustion process as a vapor, in the case of woodstoves the moisture in the wood being burned
leaves the stove as a vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves the combustion process completely condensed. In the
case of woodstoves this would assume the exhaust gases are room temperature when leaving the system, and therefore calculations
using this heating value consider the heat going up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efficiency calculated using the lower
heating value of wood will be higher than efficiency calculated using the higher heating value. In the United States all woodstove
efficiencies should be calculated using the higher heating value.
The best way to achieve optimum efficiencies is to learn the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-seasoned wood.
Higher burn rates are not always the best heating burn rates; after a good fire is established a lower burn rate may be a better option for
efficient heating. A lower burn rate slows the flow of usable heat out of the home through the chimney, and it also consumes less wood.
The top down method of fire building is recommended for this appliance. After making sure that the stove air intake controls are
fully open (completely pull-out towards you), Place the largest pieces of wood on the bottom, laid in parallel and close together.
Smaller pieces are placed in a second layer, crossways to the first. A third layer of still smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second,
this time with some spaces between. Then a fourth layer of loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops off the pile.hea
RELOADING
Once you have obtained a good bed of embers, you should reload the unit. In order to do so, open the air controls to maximum
a few seconds prior to opening the stove’s door. Then proceed by opening the door very slowly; open it one or two inches for 5
to 10 seconds, before opening it completely to increase the draft and thus eliminate the smoke which is stagnant in a state of slow
combustion in the stove. Then bring the red embers to the front of the stove and reload the unit.
For optimal operation of your wood stove, we recommend you to operate it with a wood load approximately equivalent to the
height of fire bricks.It is important to note that wood combustion consumes ambient oxygen in the room. In the case of negative
pressure, it is a good idea to allow fresh air in the room, either by opening a window slightly or by installing a fresh air intake system
on an outside wall.
WOODSTOVE UTILIZATION

19
It is strongly recommended that ashes in the metal container are taken outside immediately, and are not stored within your home.
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal when wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine
with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire.
As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. The chimney
connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during the heating season to determine if a creosote
build-up has occurred. If creosote has accumulated (3mm or more), it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
We strongly recommend that you install a magnetic thermometer on your smoke exhaust pipe, approximately 18” above the stove.
This thermometer will indicate the temperature of your gas exhaust fumes within the smoke exhaust system. The ideal temperature
for these gases is somewhere between 275°F and 500°F. Below these temperatures, the build-up of creosote is promoted. Above 500
degrees, heat is wasted since a too large quantity is lost into the atmosphere.
To Prevent Creosote Build Up: Always Burn Dry Wood. This Allows Clean Burns And Higher Chimney Temperatures,
Therefore Less Creosote Deposit.
Leave the air control full open for about 5 min. every time you reload the stove to bring it back to proper operating temperatures.
The secondary combustion can only take place if the firebox is hot enough.
Always check for creosote deposit once every two months and have your chimney cleaned at least once a year.
If a chimney or creosote fire occurs, close all dampers immediately. Wait for the fire to go out and the heater to cool, then inspect
the chimney for damage. If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning to ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining
in the chimney.
ASH DISPOSAL
Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your firebox or ash pan, and when the fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess
ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible
floor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. The ashes should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
SMOKE AND CO MONITORS
Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon monoxide(CO) emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when exposed to elevated
concentrations for extended periods of time. While the modern combustion systems in heaters drastically reduce the amount of CO
emitted out the chimney, exposure to the gases in closed or confined areas can be dangerous. Make sure your stove gaskets and
chimney joints are in good working order and sealing properly to ensure unintended exposure. It is recommended that you use both
smoke and CO monitors in areas having the potential to generate CO.
OPERATIONAL TIPS
• Operational Tips for Good, Efficient, and Clean Combustion
• Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30 minutes or more
depending on your wood)
• Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high burn rate to increase the stove temperature
• Be considerate of the environment and only burn dry wood
• Burn small, intense fires instead of large, slow burning fires when possible
• Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to obtain optimum performance
• Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves efficiency and leads to accelerated creosote buildup in your chimney
WOODSTOVE UTILIZATION

20
Your wood stove is a high efficiency stove and therefore requires little maintenance. It is important to perform a visual inspection
of the stove every time it is emptied, in order to insure that no parts have been damaged, in which case repairs must be performed
immediately. Inspect and clean the chimney and connector pipe periodically for creosote buildup or obstructions.
GLASS
• Inspect and clean the glass regularly in order to detect any cracks. If you spot one, turn the stove off immediately. Do not
abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the stove if the glass is broken.
• If the glass on your stove breaks, replace only with the glass supplied from your heater dealer. Never substitute other materials
for the glass.
• To replace the glass, remove the screws retaining the glass mouldings inside the door. Remove the mouldings and replace
the damaged piece with a new one. Perform the procedure backwards after replacing. When replacing the glass, you should
change the glass gasket to make sure you keep it sealed.
• Never wash the glass with a product that may scratch. Use a specialized product, available in the stores where wood stoves
are sold. The glass should be washed only when cold.
GASKETING
It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which makes your stove door air tight) once a year, in order to insure good
control over the combustion, maximum efficiency and security. To change the door gasket, simply remove the damaged one. Carefully
clean the available gasket groove, apply a high temperature silicone sold for this purpose and install the new gasket. You may light
up your stove again approximately 24 hours after having completed this operation. This unit’s door uses a 3/4” diameter rope gasket.
WARNING:
NEVER OPERATE THE STOVE WITHOUT A GASKET OR WITH A BROKEN ONE. DAMAGE TO THE STOVE OR
EVEN HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
PAINT
Only clean your stove with a dry soft cloth that will not harm the paint finish. If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, it is
possible to give your wood stove a brand new look by repainting it with a 1200° F heat resistant paint. For this purpose, simply scrub
the surface to be repainted with fine sand paper, clean it properly, and apply thin coats (2) of paint successively.
BLOWER (IF EQUIPPED)
The blower needs to be removed and air blown clean. Make sure the blades do not have build up.
SECONDARY AIR TUBES
The secondary air tubes must be cleaned with a wire brush. If debris remains in holes lightly tap with a wooden stick to remove.
FIREBRICK
The firebrick should be cleaned and inspected as necessary. Replace any damaged or broken brick.
AIR TUBES
The air tubes assembled in this unit are designed to provide an accurate mix of secondary air to insure the highest efficiency. Any
damage or deterioration of these tubes may reduce the efficiency of combustion. The air tubes are held in position by either screws
or snap pins. Locate these to either side of the tube and remove to allow the tube to be removed and replaced.
MAINTENANCE
This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to operate
this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.