Bernette b64 AIRLOCK User manual

User manual

Table of Contents
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Table of Contents
1 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ................. 5
Important information ........................................ 7
2 My bernette Overlocker ..................................... 9
2.1 Machine overview .................................................. 9
Front view .................................................................. 9
Overview - Needle area ............................................... 10
Overview Presser Foot ................................................. 11
Overview - Looper area ............................................... 12
Overview Threading area ............................................ 13
Overview - Side panel ................................................. 14
Symbols ...................................................................... 15
2.2 Overview - standard accessories ............................. 16
Included accessories .................................................... 16
Accessories behind the Threader Cover ....................... 17
Accessories Box .......................................................... 18
3 Setting up the machine ...................................... 20
3.1 Working area ......................................................... 20
3.2 Connection and Switching on ................................ 20
Connecting the machine ............................................. 20
Switching the machine and sewing light on/off ........... 21
3.3 Foot control ........................................................... 21
Press the foot control .................................................. 21
3.4 Handwheel ............................................................ 21
3.5 Machine covers ...................................................... 22
Open/close the Threader Cover ................................... 22
3.6 Thread stand .......................................................... 22
Attaching the Thread Stand ........................................ 22
Preparing the Thread Guide ........................................ 23
Attaching the spool stabilizer ...................................... 23
Place the spool disc ..................................................... 24
Using the spool net ..................................................... 24
3.7 Presser foot ............................................................ 25
Positioning the presser foot up/down .......................... 25
Lifting the presser foot up/down with the knee lifter ... 25
Changing the presser foot .......................................... 26
3.8 Needle area ............................................................ 27
Needle Holder ............................................................. 27
Changing the needle .................................................. 27
Threading the needle manually ................................... 29
Positioning the Needles up/down ................................. 29
3.9 Sewing Assistance ................................................... 30
Using the thread cutter ................................................ 30
Attaching/removing the knee lifter ............................... 30
Attaching/removing the cut-offs bin ............................. 31
Attaching/removing the freearm cover ......................... 31
Attaching/removing the Slide-on Table ......................... 32
Attaching the Decorative Threads Guide ...................... 32
4 Sewing start ......................................................... 33
4.1 Check before starting to sew .................................. 33
4.2 Selecting the fabric ................................................. 33
4.3 Selecting the thread ................................................ 33
Needle Thread .............................................................. 34
Looper Thread .............................................................. 34
4.4 Selecting the needle ................................................ 35
Detect defective needles .............................................. 36
Needle Overview .......................................................... 36
4.5 Fixing fabric layers ................................................... 36
5 Stitch ..................................................................... 37
5.1 Stitch type .............................................................. 37
Overlockstitch .............................................................. 37
Select stitch by application ........................................... 38
5.2 Stitch Chart ............................................................ 41
6 Machine settings .................................................. 43
6.1 Setting the knife ..................................................... 43
Knife On/Off ................................................................ 43
Setting the Cutting Width ............................................ 44
6.2 Upper Looper Converter hooked in/hooked out ...... 45
6.3 Rolled Hem Selection Lever «N/R» ........................... 46
Overlocking «N» .......................................................... 46
Rolled hem «R» ............................................................ 46
6.4 Setting the mtc Micro Thread Control ..................... 47
6.5 Setting the Presser Foot Pressure ............................. 48
6.6 Adjusting the stitch width ....................................... 48
Changing the stitch width via the needle position ........ 48
Changing the stitch width via the Cutting Width .......... 48
6.7 Adjusting the thread tension ................................... 49

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6.8 Adjusting the Differential Feed ............................... 49
Default value "1" ....................................................... 50
Gathering "1.5 – 2" ................................................... 50
Stretching "0.6" ......................................................... 51
6.9 Setting the Stitch Length ........................................ 52
7 Threading ............................................................. 53
7.1 Threading preparation ............................................ 53
7.2 Air Threader ........................................................... 54
Threading the Looper Threads UL/blue, LL/red ............. 55
Threading the Looper Thread with an auxiliary thread . 57
Using the Threading Wire ........................................... 57
7.3 Threading the needle thread .................................. 58
Threading the Right Needle Thread RN/green .............. 58
Threading the Left Needle Thread LN/yellow ............... 59
7.4 Thread change ....................................................... 60
Knotting thick thread .................................................. 60
Changing the needle thread ....................................... 61
Changing the looper thread ........................................ 61
8 Sewing test .......................................................... 62
8.1 Performing a sewing test for an overlock stitch ...... 62
8.2 Optimizing stitches ................................................. 62
4-/3-thread Overlock ................................................... 63
3-Thread Narrow Seam ............................................... 64
3-thread super-stretch / 2-thread wrapped overlock .... 65
3-thread flatlock ......................................................... 66
3-thread rolled hem / 3-thread picot stitch .................. 67
2-thread rolled hem .................................................... 68
2-thread flatlock / 2-thread overlock ........................... 69
9 Practical overlocking ........................................... 70
9.1 Securing overlock stitches ...................................... 70
Sewing in the overlock chain at the start of the seam . 70
Sewing in the overlock chain at the end of the seam .. 70
Securing overlock stitches ........................................... 71
Knotting the overlock chain ........................................ 71
9.2 Undoing overlock stitches ...................................... 71
9.3 Flatlock .................................................................. 72
9.4 Gathering .............................................................. 73
Increasing the differential feed .................................... 73
Pulling the needle thread ............................................ 73
9.5 Sew outer corners .................................................. 74
9.6 Sewing inner corners .............................................. 75
9.7 Sewing inner curves ............................................... 75
9.8 Sew outer curves and circles ................................... 76
10 Appendix .............................................................. 77
10.1 Storing and transporting the machine ..................... 77
Storing the machine ..................................................... 77
Transporting the machine ............................................ 77
10.2 Maintenance and cleaning the machine .................. 77
Cleaning the machine .................................................. 77
Cleaning the Looper Area ............................................ 78
Cleaning the air threader pipes .................................... 79
Cleaning the suction feet ............................................ 79
Oiling the machine ....................................................... 80
10.3 Troubleshooting ...................................................... 81
10.4 Specifications .......................................................... 82

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please be aware of the following basic safety instructions when using your
machine. Before using this machine, read instruction manual carefully.
DANGER!
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
• Never leave the machine unattended as long as it is plugged in.
• Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after
using and before cleaning.
Protection against LED radiation:
• Do not view the LED light directly with optical instruments (e.g. magnifier).
The LED light corresponds with protection class 1M.
• When the LED light is damaged or defective, contact your bernette specialist
dealer.
To reduce the risk of injury:
• Caution: moving parts. To reduce risk of injury, switch the machine off
before servicing. Close the covers before operating machine.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
• To operate the machine always use the supplied power cable. USA and
Canada only: Do not connect power plug NEMA 1-15 to circuits exceeding
150 volt-to-ground.
• This machine may only be used for the purpose described in this instruction
manual.
• Only use the machine in dry rooms.
• Do not use the machine in a damp condition or in a damp environment.
• Do not use the machine as a toy. You must take extra care if the machine is
being used by children or in the vicinity of children.
• This machine may be used by children eight years of age and older as well as
persons with restricted physical, sensory or mental capacities or lack of
experience and knowledge under supervision or having received instruction
on the safe use of the machine and the resulting hazards.
• Children must not play with the machine.
• Cleaning and maintenance work must not be carried out by children without
supervision.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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• Do not use this machine if the cable or plug is damaged, the machine is not
functioning correctly, it is dropped or becomes damaged or falls in water.
Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Contact the nearest authorized bernette dealer to arrange further
details.
• Only use accessories recommended by the manufacturer.
• Do not use this machine if the ventilation openings are blocked. Keep all
ventilation openings and foot control free of lint, dust and loose cloth.
• Do not insert any objects into the openings of the machine.
• Do not place any objects on the foot control.
• Always use the machine with a foot control of this type .
• Do not use the machine anywhere that oxygen or propellant products
(sprays) are being used.
• The knife cover insert or coverstitch insert must be attached continuously
while operating the machine.
• Keep fingers away from all rotating and moving parts. Special care is
required in the needle area, the looper and the knife.
• Neither pull nor push the fabric while sewing. This can cause needle
breakage.
• Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments in the needle area,
such as threading the needle or changing the needle or the presser foot.
• Never use damaged needles.
• Always use the original bernette stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can
cause needle breakage.
• To disconnect, turn power switch to "0"and then remove the plug from the
outlet. Always pull on the plug and not the cable.
• Disconnect the plug before removing or opening the covers, oiling the
machine or performing any cleaning or maintenance work described in this
instruction manual.
• This machine is double-insulated (except for USA, Canada and Japan). Use
only genuine replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-
insulated products.

Important information
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Important information
Availability of the instruction manual
The short manual is part of the machine.
• Keep the short manual of the machine in a suitable place near the machine and have it ready for
reference.
• A detailed instruction manual can be downloaded from www.mybernette.com.
• When passing on the machine to a third party, enclose the short manual of the machine.
Proper use
Your bernette machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for
overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper.
BERNINA assumes no liability for consequences resulting from improper use.
Equipment and scope of delivery
Example images are used in these operating instructions for the purposes of illustration. The machines shown
in the images and the accessories shown therefore do not always match the actual items included with your
machine. The supplied accessory can vary depending on the country of delivery. You can acquire any
accessories mentioned or shown that are not included in the scope of delivery as optional accessories from a
specialist bernette dealer. Further accessories can be found at www.mybernette.com.
For technical reasons and in order to improve the product, changes may be made to the equipment of the
machine and the scope of delivery at any time and without prior notice.
Maintenance of double-insulated products
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding
means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the
product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and
should only be done by qualified service personnel. Only original spare parts should be used for service and
repairs. A double-insulated product is marked with the words: «Double-Insulation »or «double-insulated».
The symbol may also be marked on the product.
Environmental Protection
BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact
of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.
The machine is labeled with the symbol of the crossed-out wastebin. This means that the machine should
not be disposed of in household waste when it is no longer needed. Improper disposal can result in
dangerous substances getting into the groundwater and thus into our food chain, damaging our health.
The machine must be returned free of charge to a nearby collection point for waste electrical and electronic
equipment or to a collection point for the reuse of the machine. Information on the collection points can be
obtained from your local administration. When purchasing a new machine, the dealer is obliged to take back
the old machine free of charge and dispose of it properly.
If the machine contains personal data, you are responsible for deleting the data yourself before returning the
machine.

Important information
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Explanation of symbols
DANGER Designates a high-risk hazard which can lead to serious injuries or potentially even death if not avoided.
WARNING Designates a medium-risk hazard which can lead to serious injuries if not avoided.
CAUTION Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided.
NOTICE Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided.
You will find tips from bernette sewing experts next to this symbol.

My bernette Overlocker
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2 My bernette Overlocker
2.1 Machine overview
Front view
1
2
3
5
6
7
8
10
12
13
4
9
11
14
1 Freearm Cover 8 Thread Tension Adjustment
2 Guide Rail 9 Thread Deflection Fingers
3 Freearm 10 Thread Guiding Plate
4 Sewing Light (LED) 11 Knife Cover Insert
5 Thread Cutter 12 Threader Cover
6 Presser Foot Presser Wheel 13 Cut-offs Bin
7 Needle Thread Take-up Lever Cover 14 Suction Feet

My bernette Overlocker
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Overview - Needle area
1
2
4
5
3
7
9
10
8
6
1 Stitch Plate 6 Thread Guide on the Headframe
2 Stitch Plate Screw 7 Needle Holder
3 Standard Overlock Presser Foot 8 Needle Screws
4 Presser Foot Release Lever (red) 9 Thread Guide on the Needle Holder
5 Presser Foot Bar 10 Needles ELx705

My bernette Overlocker
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Overview Presser Foot
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1 Presser Foot Sole 5 Presser Foot Shaft
2 Presser Foot Sole Pin 6 Shaft groove
3 Presser Foot Spring 7 Right Needle position (RN)
4 Fixing screw 8 Left Needle position (LN)

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Overview - Looper area
2
4
7
8
10
9
5
1
3
6
1 Knife 6 Feed Dog
2 Cutting Width Dial 7 Upper Looper
3 Knife On/Off 8 Lower Looper
4 mtc Micro Thread Control Dial 9 Upper Looper Air Threader Pipe
5 Rolled Hem Selection Lever 10 Air Threader Duct Lower Looper

My bernette Overlocker
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Overview Threading area
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
1 Threader Cover 5 Air Threader Nozzles
2 Threading Chart 6 Air Threader Lever
3 Knife Cover Insert 7 Accessories in the Threader Cover
4 Air Threader Connector On/Off

My bernette Overlocker
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Overview - Side panel
11
12
9
8
7
2
6
5
10
4
1
3
13
1 Carry Handle 8 Differential Feed Dial
2 Retractable Thread Guide 9 Handwheel
3 Spool Pin 10 Air Vents
4 Spool Pin 11 Foot control-/ power connection
5 Needle Pad 12 Power Switch
6 Presser Foot Lifter 13 Connection for Knee Lifter (FHS)
7 Stitch Length Setting

My bernette Overlocker
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Symbols
The symbols are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine.
LN Left Needle Thread
Thread path yellow
RN Right Needle Thread
Thread path green
UL Upper Looper Thread
Thread path blue
LL Lower Looper Thread
Thread path red
ULC Upper Looper Converter
CW Cutting Width
SL Stitch Length
DF Differential Feed
N/R Rolled Hem Selection Lever
mtc mtc Micro Thread Control
Presser Foot Pressure
Air Threader Lever
Air Threader Connector On/Off

My bernette Overlocker
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2.2 Overview - standard accessories
Included accessories
Visit www.mybernette.comfor more accessories information.
Illustration Name Purpose
Power Cable and Foot
Control Cable
To connect the machine with the power supply
system and the Foot Control.
Cut-offs Bin To collect resulting scraps.
Knife cover insert To protect the fingers and to deflect the fabric cut-
offs during the sewing process.
Freearm cover To extend the work surface.
Slide-on table To increase the sewing surface.
Free Hand System (FHS) To raise and lower the presser foot.
Overlock Foot For all Overlock Stitches.
For general sewing projects.
Retractable Thread Guide For an even unwinding of the thread from the
thread cones.

My bernette Overlocker
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Accessories behind the Threader Cover
The most often used accessories while sewing are stored behind the Threader Cover on the machine, so it is
always quickly at hand.
Illustration Name Purpose
Needle Set ELx705 CF
(3xNo.80, 2xNo.90)
For the most frequently used Overlock applications,
in various needle sizes.
Screwdriver To loosen or tighten the fixing screws on the
needle holder.
Brush To clean the feed dog and the looper area.
BERNINA tweezers To grip the threads in narrow positions.
Needle threader/inserter To manually thread, insert and remove the needle.
Upper Looper Converter To cover the Upper Looper.
For sewing 2-thread overlock and the 3-thread
super-stretch stitch.

My bernette Overlocker
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Accessories Box
Illustration Name Purpose
Accessories box To store the supplied accessories as well as the
optional accessories.
Overlocker oil For oiling the looper components.
(see page80)
Spool Stabilizers (4x) To stabilize the thread cone on the Thread Stand.
Spool Nets (4x) To support even unwinding of nylon, rayon, silk or
metallic threads from the spool.
Spool Discs (4x) To support an even unwinding of the thread from
small thread spools.
Screwdriver To loosen/tighten the Stitch Plate Screws.
Knife To exchange the knife.
Threading wire To thread the looper threads manually in the air
threader pipe.

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Illustration Name Purpose
Decorative Thread
Guide
To sew with decorative threads for particularly
wide and long stitches, for seams and edge
finishing.

Setting up the machine
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3 Setting up the machine
3.1 Working area
A stable table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the
sewing table is an important point to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands.
The recommendation for this includes matching the height of the table and the body posture. Avoid staying
in the same position for long periods.
> Place the machine on a stable table.
> Before operating the machine again after storage, leave the machine unpacked for approx. 1 h at room
temperature.
Correct sitting position
> Sit comfortably in front of the machine.
> Hold the arms 90 ° across the table, with your fingertips to the machine.
– The fingertips should touch the Stich Plate.
3.2 Connection and Switching on
Connecting the machine
> Insert the plug (1) of the Power Cable and the Foot Control cable into the connection.
> Insert the plug (2) of the Power Cable and the Foot Control cable into the socket outlet.
Use of the power cable (only USA/Canada)
The machine has a polarized plug (one contact is wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
the plug can only be plugged into the socket in one way. If the plug does not fit into the socket, turn the
plug. If it still does not fit, contact an electrician to install an appropriate outlet. Do not modify the plug in
any way.