Bernina L 890 Operation instructions

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For BERNINA Overlocker L 890
WORKBOOK #1 – BASIC SERGER USE
OVERLOCKER
MASTERY
BOOK
SERIES
MY
BERNINA

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ������������������������������������������������������������������������� 4
PREPARING TO STITCH �������������������������������������������������������������� 5
BASIC NAVIGATION������������������������������������������������������������������� 6
PERSONALIZE THE MACHINE���������������������������������������������������� 8
SELECTING A STITCH (DIRECT STITCH SELECTION) ������������������ 9
MANUAL SETTINGS ����������������������������������������������������������������� 10
STITCH VIEW���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 11
BALANCED STITCH ������������������������������������������������������������������ 14
TENSION SETTINGS: UPPER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS ������ 15
TENSION SETTINGS: LOWER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS ���� 16
TENSION SETTINGS: RIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS ������� 17
TENSION SETTINGS: LEFT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS���������� 18
STITCH LENGTH ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 19
CUTTING WIDTH���������������������������������������������������������������������� 20
UNDERSTANDING DIFFERENTIAL FEED ���������������������������������� 21
DIFFERENTIAL FEED: STRETCHY FABRICS������������������������������� 22
PERSONAL MEMORY��������������������������������������������������������������� 23
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH-WIDE�������������������������������������� 24
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - WIDE�������������������������������������������������� 25
3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH NARROW ������������������������������� 26
3-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW ������������������������������������������� 27
3-THREAD ROLLED HEM ��������������������������������������������������������� 28
2-THREAD ROLLED HEM ��������������������������������������������������������� 29
2-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW ������������������������������������������� 30
2-THREAD BLANKET STITCH NARROW ���������������������������������� 31
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: SECURING SEAMS��������������������� 32
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: INSIDE CORNER ������������������������ 33
L 890

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
The information in this workbook applies to the BERNINA Overlocker Machine model shown above�
L 890
OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: OUTSIDE CORNER ������������ 34
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER NEEDLES����������������������������� 35
REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER THREADS���������������������������� 36
SUPPLIES��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 37

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INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on the purchase of your new BERNINA
overlocker. Learning to use your new machine to its fullest
capabilities will let you enjoy your machine for many years.
Understanding your machine’s features will maximize
your creativity. You'll learn the essentials to help you be
successful with any project.
Your overlocker will speed your sewing in many ways,
letting you produce more in less time. The speed of the
overlocker is faster because it performs several operations
(trimming, seaming, and overcasting) at the same time, so
your project is nished faster and will produce neater and
more professional results.
Even though the workings of the overlocker may appear be
more complex than a sewing machine, it doesn’t take long
to learn the basics. The stitching exercises in this workbook
use four, three, and two thread stitch formations.
Once you have completed the exercises designated for
your BERNINA overlock machine, attach the sewn samples
to the indicated pages, insert the pages into plastic page
protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. Use this
workbook as a reference tool in the future as you learn to
use your overlocker in new ways.
For more information on the BERNINA line of sewing
machines and overlockers, as well as sewing projects, visit:
:
www.bernina.com

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CLEANING AND OILING
Keeping your overlocker clean will keep your machine running smoothly and is a crucial component for successful stitches.
Serging creates a lot of lint which will build up in the machine, and oil will attract this lint to the moving parts of the
machine—so it is important to not over-oil the overlocker. Your machine manual will also give you detailed cleaning and oiling
suggestions..
PRESSER FOOT
The L 890 comes with two presser feet. Standard Combo Foot #C11 is the standard foot and can be used for all basic overlock
stitch groups and the Combo stitches. This foot can also be used for Cover-and Chainstitches. Chainstitch Foot #C13 is the cover-
and chainstitch foot and provides a narrower prole for optimal coverstitches and chainstitching.
NEEDLES
The L 8 Series overlockers are specied to needle system ELX705 needles. These needles have a grove on the front and
back of the needle which reduces the friction on the thread, especially at high speeds. Other needles can be used in these
machines, but tension adjustments may be required to achieve the desired stitch. Refer to Page 35 Reference - Overlocker
Needles for more information.
THREADING (Refer to Page 36 Reference -Overlocker Threads for additional information about threads.)
Due to the One-Step BERNINA Air Threader, no specic sequence is required for threading the machine.
Thread with the presser foot raised, and the retractable thread guide fully extended.
Make sure needles are in the highest position—they are staggered.
• Follow the color-coded path for threading the desired stitch.
• To engage the air threader, turn the air threader connection to the left. Then press the foot control to activate the threading
motor.
• If the air threading pipes do not close in the proper position, turn the handwheel before engaging the air threader. Now
when you press on the foot control, the pulse-drive feature will slowly move the pipes into the correct position to close.
• Tools for changing needles are located conveniently inside the threading cover of the machine.
PREPARING TO STITCH

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BASIC NAVIGATION
Main Functions
Touch the Home button to switch between the Home Screen and the Sewing Screen (stitch view).
The button works like a toggle. Additional main screen functions are the Help and clr.
1. Touch the <?> button to activate the Help Function.
2. Touch the icon on the screen that you need more
information on.
3. A text box with explanation will appear on screen.
4. Close the box to resume.
Help Function
clr
The <clr> button will reset any changed setting back to the default settings by simply tapping the button.
Settings and Help Functions
The Home Screen has four buttons that allow you to launch the Setup
Program and Help functions for the machine.
Select User Mode
Additionally, from the Home Screen you can select two user modes:
Guided and Expert. The Guided Mode will automatically prompt
through a Setup Wizard for each step, eventually landing at the Stitch
View screen. The Expert Mode shortens the operating steps and begins
with the Manual Settings screen from which the Setup Wizard can be
launched at any time. The user mode is selected based on preference.
For this class we will operate in the Expert Mode.

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BASIC NAVIGATION
Tutorials
The Tutorials button will open a built-in menu of basic machine operations with written descriptions and
sometimes animations. This is like having the machine manual at your ngertips.
You can use the Creative Consultant as a way to directly select a stitch with pre-determined stitch setting
adjustments for specic textiles and techniques. Follow the menu prompts and use the Help Function to further
identify materials and techniques for desired stitch. The Creative Consultant will recommend the optimal stitch
in combination with needle, thread and presser foot based on the selections made
Creative Consultant
Breadcrumbs
Learn to navigate within menus using the breadcrumb icons rather than using
the Close box to exit. This is a time-saving feature when moving from textile and
technique in Creative Consultant.
Eco Mode
Eco Mode is a power saving option that will lock the screen and turn off the lights without totally powering
off the machine. It is a great option if you need to move to another task like ironing or using a regular
sewing machine and do not want to leave the overlocker on. Simply tap the button when you return and
the machine picks up where you left off.

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PERSONALIZE THE MACHINE
Personalize the Screen (Setup Menu)
You can personalize the display and wallpaper color to suit your individual tastes for each user mode, Guided
and Expert. The default color for Guided Mode is blue and for Expert Mode it is purple. Change the color as
well as the texture in the Setup Program. A welcome text can also be programmed.
You can customize the sewing speed of the L 890 for both top speed and low speed.
In addition to sewing speed, you can also change and personalize the brightness of the
screen, turn off the LED machine lights, change or turn off the audio touchscreen sound,
and turn off the presser foot warning monitor.
Program the Sewing Speed
Machine Settings
There is other helpful information found in the Setup Menu under the machine Settings icon. Here you can
set the language, check rmware version, recalibrate the touchscreen, restore factory settings, and launch
a software update.
1. Touch the Setup icon.
2. Select Personal Settings and a display appears.
3. Select the color and texture.
4. Close the screen (or use the setup breadcrumb to navigate
back to Setup).
1. Touch the Setup icon.
2. Select Sewing Speed icon.
3. Adjust the slider controls to the desired maximum and
minimum speed.
• Changes are highlighted by yellow.
• To reset to default speed select clr.
• Sewing speeds have direct inuence on the machine,
regardless of the stitch selection.
4. Close the screen (or use the setup breadcrumb to navigate
back to Setup).
Tip: If you accidentally recalibrate the touch screen so that the
touch sensation is incorrect, you may automatically launch the
calibration by turning the machine off. Then touch and hold
on the screen as you turn the machine back on. The calibration
screen will show up and you can correct the touch points

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SELECTING A STITCH (DIRECT STITCH SELECTION)
Stitch Selection
There are three different ways to select a stitch on the L 890 Navigation; direct selections, via Creative
Consultant or from Personal Memory. We will begin by learning the Direct Stitch Selection that will take you
to the Sewing Screen.
1. Select stitches by touching the Stitch Selection tab.
2. Select the stitch using the Search by Number or from Stitch Group Folder.
3. Select the folder for the stitch group and all stitches for that category will appear.
4. Touch the image of the stitch you want to select.
5. Change the view to Schematic View or True View (based on your preference).
6. Show stitches as tiles or as a list with names.
7. Once selected, the machine will prompt you to either the Manual Settings Screen (Expert Mode) or the Setup Wizard
(Guided Mode).

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MANUAL SETTINGS
The Manual Settings Mode is prompted directly after a stitch is selected when in Expert Mode. This is the
screen that outlines all the physical changes that need to be made to the machine when setting up the stitch.
We will use a 4-thread overlock as our example.
The Wizard can be launched at any time from this screen by selecting the icon. This will walk you step-by-step
through all the changes that need to be made for the stitch selected.
Tip: The L 890 will remember the last stitch sewn, and the prompts work from these assumptions for the
suggested stitch changes.
Once all manual settings have been checked or changed, select the green check mark and the machine will move to the Stitch
View Screen.
Manual Setting Icons
Presser Foot
Recommendation
Looper Converter
Knife On/Off
Cutting Width
Micro Thread Control
Presser Foot Pressure
Upper Looper Position
Looper Insert
Rolled Hem Selection Lever
Needle Position

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STITCH VIEW
The Stitch View screen shows the electronic settings for each stitch, in addition to a few other important aspects of the stitch.
You can see the stitch number, name and a schematic or realistic view illustration of the basic stitch structure.
Electronic Settings
Thread Tension
The thread tension settings are easy to read across the top of the screen. In schematic view you will see both the number of
the tension setting, as well as the abbreviation for the thread. In realistic view, you will only see the number and color code—
no abbreviation. These numbers will start as recommended preset defaults for the stitch selected. When adjusted they will be
outlined in yellow.
There are two ways to adjust the thread tensions on the L 890. You can do this directly through the touch screen by touching
any tension button on the top of the touch screen and a new screen will open. Here you can use the electronic slider control
to set the tension. Touch and hold while moving the slider control to the desired setting.
For more control of the tension settings, use the ne adjustment buttons located the front of the machine (manual button).
Press the top button for a higher tension and the bottom button for a lower tension. This will move the tension in decimals of
1/10. Thread tension can be adjusted between 1-9 for each stitch. Changes made using the manual buttons will be reected
on the screen.

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STITCH VIEW
There are no physical knobs for the Stitch Length and Differential Feed settings on the L 890. These settings are
changed electronically through the Touch Screen Navigation from the Stitch View screen. The setting will start
at the preset default for the stitch selected. To change the setting, touch either icon and the adjustment screen
will appear.
Needle Stop Up/Down and Maximum Sewing Speed
There are two settings that can be changed from the Stitch View screen that have direct inuence
on the machine—meaning that the adjustment will remain as selected for every stitch to follow.
These are the Needle Stop Up/Down and the Maximum Sewing Speed. Needle Stop Up/Down works
like a toggle and will change with a tap. Selecting Maximum Sewing Speed will open a screen with a Slider Control and Fine
Adjustment icons.
Tip: Remember the sewing speed can also be set in the machine Setup Screen. From the Stitch View Screen, only the top
speed can be changed and this change will also translate into the Setup Screen. Think of it as quick access to sewing speed.
Stitch Length and Differential Feed
The settings for Stitch Length and Differential Feed can be adjusted using the Slider Control, or for f ine adjustments using
the <+>and <-> icons. In addition, from this screen you can launch an animation that illustrates the changes to the stitch as
various adjustments are made. If a change has been made to the setting, the number will appear in yellow.
Stitch Length is adjustable from 0.8 mm-4.5 mm.
Differential Feed is adjustable from 0.7-2.
All these setting have direct inuence only on the stitch selected—meaning the settings are for this stitch only. If you have
a setting that you will use often, consider saving it in the Personal Memory function of the machine (page 23).

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STITCH VIEW
The nal button on the stitch view screen is the Stitch Optimizer. This is best understood as on-screen
troubleshooting. The L 890 will begin each stitch with preset default settings (or settings that are saved from
Personal Memory), but these settings can be ne-tuned to achieve a better stitch based on the textiles and
techniques used. Always begin with test sewing the stitch. If the stitch is not as desired, then launch the Stitch
Optimizer to troubleshoot the stitch.
Stitch Optimizer
1. Tap the Stitch Optimizer icon using the 4-thread overlock stitch as an example.
2. Scroll through the stitch images until you discover the image that most resembles the stitch issue you have. (Ex. The fabric
edge tunnels or curls.)
3. Touch the imperfect stitch image.
4. Read and perform the recommended actions one at a time until the stitch is corrected (5 possible adjustments that could
be used to perfect this issue).

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1. Thread the overlocker for 4-thread overlock stitch
using the colors to match the color-coded threading
path on the machine. Select Stitch #1 and make all the
recommended manual setting adjustments.
2. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise 5” x 10”
3. Sew the 4-thread overlock with preset default setting
along the folded edge—trimming off the fold. Stitch
off the edge of the fabric and continue until the thread
chain is long enough to be cut in the thread cutter at
the side of the machine (6”-8” approximately).
4. Examine the stitch formation and label the sample with
the machine settings on the fabric.
5. Launch the Stitch Optimizer and determine if any
corrective measures are needed.
BALANCED STITCH
Firm fabric, 10” x 10”
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1)
C11
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper Looper
Lower Looper

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TENSION SETTINGS: UPPER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS
Create some imperfect stitch formations by adjusting
the thread tension settings for each stitch to extremes as
follows below. Label each sample as it is sewn to identify
the thread tension as: too loose or too tight. This will serve
as a physical reference, much like the stitch optimizer, to
help you identify the tension that needs correcting with
future stitch issues.
Compare your sewn samples to the images in the Stitch
Optimizer and consider the recommended corrective
measure for each issue.
1. Adjust the upper looper tension to the highest setting
of 9.
2. Fold the fabric in half to 5" x 10” and sew the seam
along the fold, trimming off a slight amount.
3. Look at the stitch. You can see that when the tension
is too tight the upper looper pulls the lower looper (red
thread) over to the right side.
4. Label the sample "Upper Looper Tension Too Tight".
1. Now adjust the tension setting to the lowest setting of
1, and sew the seam on the opposite side.
2. Examine the stitch formation. When the upper looper is
too loose, the blue thread is pulled to the back side of
the fabric.
3. Label the sample "Upper Looper Too Loose".
4. Touch clr to put the upper looper setting back to the
default of 4.
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1)
C 11
Upper Looper Tension Too Tight Upper Looper Tension Too Tight
Upper Looper Tension Too Loose Upper Looper Tension Too Loose
Top Side Bottom
Side
Bottom
Side
Top Side

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TENSION SETTINGS: LOWER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS
1. Adjust the lower looper tension to the highest setting
of 9.
2. Fold the fabric in half to 5" x 10” and sew the seam
along the fold, trimming off a slight amount.
3. Look at the stitch. When the lower looper is too tight,
the upper thread (blue) is pulled to the back.
4. Label the sample "Lower Looper Tension Too Tight".
1. Now adjust the tension setting to the lowest setting of
1 and sew the seam on the opposite side.
2. Examine the stitch formation. When it is too loose, the
lower looper (red) thread is pulled to the front.
3. Label the sample "Lower Looper Too Loose".
4. Touch clr to put the lower looper setting back to the
default of 4.
Lower Looper Tension Too Tight Lower Looper Tension Too Tight
Lower Looper Tension Too Loose Lower Looper Tension Too Loose
Top Side Bottom
Side
Bottom
Side
Top Side
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1
C 11
Compare your sewn samples to the images in the Stitch
Optimizer and consider the recommended corrective
measure for each issue.

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TENSION SETTINGS: RIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS
1. Adjust the right needle tension to the highest setting
of 9.
2. Fold the fabric in half to 5" x 10” and sew the seam
along the fold, trimming off a slight amount.
3. Look at the stitch. You might have noticed when you
sewed the seam that the fabric wanted to pucker more.
You might also notice a bit of the lower looper (red
thread) showing up on the edge of the seam. From the
bottom side, you may notice that the left needle thread
is being pulled up.
4. Label the sample "Right Needle Tension Too Tight".
1. Now adjust the tension setting to the lowest setting of
1 and sew the seam on the opposite side.
2. Examine the stitch formation. Notice how you can now
see the needle thread making loose loops on the front
and on the back of the fabric.
3. Label the sample "Right Needle Tension Too Loose".
4. Touch clr to put the right needle tension setting back to
the default of 4.
Right Needle Tension Too Tight Right Needle Tension Too Tight
Right Needle Tension Too Loose Right Needle Tension Too Loose
Top Side Bottom
Side
Bottom
Side
Top Side
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1)
C 11
Compare your sewn samples to the images in the Stitch
Optimizer and consider the recommended corrective
measure for each issue.

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TENSION SETTINGS: LEFT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS
1. Adjust the left needle tension to the highest setting of 9.
2. Fold the fabric in half to 5" x 10” and sew the seam along the
fold, trimming off a slight amount.
3. Look at the stitch. You may see some of the red thread showing
up on the front side of the seam, but also the stitch will appear
to “tunnel” or scrunch up more when sewing.
4. Label the sample "Left Needle Tension Too Tight".
1. Now adjust the tension setting to the lowest setting of 1 and
sew the seam on the opposite side.
2. Examine the stitch formation. You will notice that on
the back of the seam you will see the yellow thread
being pulled by the loopers.
3. Label the sample "Left Needle Too Loose".
4. Touch clr to put the left needle tension setting back to
the default of 4.
Left Needle Tension Too Tight Left Needle Tension Too Tight
Left Needle Tension Too Loose Left Needle Tension Too Loose
Top Side Bottom
Side
Bottom
Side
Top Side
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1
C 11
Compare your sewn samples to the images in the Stitch
Optimizer and consider the recommended corrective
measure for each issue.

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Using the balanced 4-thread overlock stitch from the previous
exercise, follow the instructions below to adjust the stitch length.
1. Fold the fabric in half to 5" x 10".
2. Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections
along the folded edge.
3. Adjust the stitch length to 4.5 mm. Sew to the rst
mark along the folded edge, trimming folded edge a
slight amount.
4. Adjust the stitch length to 3 mm and sew to the second
mark.
5. Adjust the stitch length to 2 mm and sew to the third
mark.
6. Adjust the stitch length to 1 mm and sew to the end.
7. Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
8. Touch clr to return stitch length to its normal setting of
2.5 mm.
NOTE: Stitch length adjustments may be needed to
accommodate thicker or thinner threads or different weights
of fabric, as well as being used for decorative effects.
STITCH LENGTH
3 mm
2 mm
1 mm
4 mm
General guidelines for stitch length settings
2.5 mm Standard setting
1-2 mm Rolled hems and decorative edges
2.5-4 mm Heavy weight fabrics
3-4 mm Gathering and applying elastic
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1
C 11

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Using the balanced 4-thread overlock stitch from the pre-
vious exercise, follow the instructions below to adjust the
cutting width" overlocker should be threaded for a 4-thread
overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded
threading path on the overlocker.
1. F old the fabric in half to 5” x 10”.
2. Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into three equal
sections along the folded edge.
3. Adjust the Cutting Width knob to the widest setting (9).
Sew to the rst mark on the fabric, stopping when the
knife edge is on the mark.
4. Reduce the cutting width to 7 and overlock to the second
mark.
5. Turn the dial again to adjust the cutting width to the
lowest setting (5) and overlock to the end of the fabric.
6. Mark the cutting width settings on the fabric sample.
7. Return cutting width to its normal setting (6).
CUTTING WIDTH
High #
(Wide)
Mid
(Normal)
Low #
(Narrow)
Firm fabric such as muslin, 10" x 10"
80/12 ELX705
4 Spools Serger Thread (B, R, G, Y)
4-Thread Overlock Stitch #1
C 11