Bole Laser Craft Grange Farm Tipper Wagon User manual

Assembly Instructions : Page 1
Grange Farm Tipper Wagon
Side tipping or dumping wagons were extensively used by narrow gauge industrial railways and
range in size from small hand propelled examples up to large wagons capable of carrying several
tonnes hauled in long rakes by large locomotives e.g. the Kettering furnaces railway).
This model is based on the side tipper wagons used at the grange farm ironstone quarry which was
part of the Scaldwell ironstone railway system in Northamptonshire. This is a medium sized example
which is big enough to be locomotive hauled but still noticeably smaller than a common carrier open
wagon. The prototype was constructed with an oak inside frame and an elm planked body. The body
“rocked” sideways on crescent shaped rockers and was retained in place by curved metal slots at
each end.
General Assembly Instructions
Do take time to read through the instructions and understand how the parts fit together before
reaching for the glue pot. Where ever possible parts have been designed to be symmetrical but
occasionally parts have to be left or right handed so take care to follow the instructions carefully at
these points.
Most parts are attached to their frets by small sections of
half cuts. To remove parts either cut through the
remaining material from the front with a thin sharp blade
e.g. a scalpel) on a cutting mat or turn the whole fret
over and with the aid of a steel ruler aligned with the
pieces side, cut
lightly with a knife to break through the remaining wood.
DO NOT simply try and twist the parts out of the fret, there is a
risk that the part may tear. The laser cutting process will leave a
degree of edge discolouration. If you plan to leave you model
unpainted now is the time to lightly sand the edges to remove
this discolouration.

Assembly Instructions : Page 2
Gluing
Wood and MDF parts may be glued with PVA wood glue, Cyanoacrylate adhesive super-glue) or
epoxy resin Araldite). Beware of vary cheap glues, their joints may fail in time! If you do use a
“super-glue”, go for one which takes a few seconds to set rather than an instant “grab” one. This will
give you a few seconds to adjust the parts position before it is too late.
Metal parts e.g. coupling hooks) are best fixed with Cyano/super glue.
Painting
This is very much a matter of personal choice. As poplar plywood is used for the body, leaving the
model mostly unpainted can be very attractive however if you plan to run your trains in all weathers,
some form of protection especially on the MDF parts) will be needed; a couple of coats of acrylic
matt varnish from a “rattle can” is easy way of achieving this.
Suggest Colour Scheme
Paint the “strapping strips”, corner plates, tilt plates and door latches with a dark grey acrylic paint
e.g. Tamiya) before you glue them to the body. Apply 2 or 3 thinned coats tip use surgical spirit
rather than Tamiya thinners to thin Tamiya paint), this should seal the MDF against moisture.
Stain the body parts before gluing together. With a cloth, lightly smear on wood dye bought from
your DIY store. Go slowly as the very pale wood absorbs the colour quickly. Alternatively to achieve
the silver grey look of weathered wood , stain with very weak mix of black india ink in surgical spirit
applied with a small paint brush.
The chassis can be treated and protected with Exterior wood stain. Small tins in a variety of colours
are available from your DIY chain store. Apply two to three coats with a small paint brush until you
have an even colouring.
Tools
The following tools will be required:
•A sharp modelling knife or scalpel
•1.5 mm and 4mm drill bits
•A small file, sand paper or an emery board “nail file”
The following tools are recommended
•A cutting matt
•A small steel ruler
•Some small clamps, bulldog clips or rubber bands
•A round section “needle file”
•A metal working vice with smooth jaws or a wood working vice

Assembly Instructions : Page 3
Step 1
PVA wood glue is recommended for these 2 steps or
if want to use a super-glue DON’T use an “instant
grab type”. Glue the 3 “chassis plates” together using
the small rectangular locating pegs at each end. Note
the sequence of centre tabbed, no tabbed and end
tabbed plates and that the central beams and slots
are slightly offset. Make sure the parts are squeezed
together properly.
Step 2
Glue the two sole bars onto the sides. If
any of the glue has oozed out from
between the plates especially in the cross
member locating slots) clean it off now.
The parts should fit together snugly but if
necessary clamp the sides to the plates
while the glue dries.
Once the glue is dry, lightly file the ends of
the locating tabs to remove any remaining
edge discolouration.
Step 3
Gently slide the 2 brass bearing tubes into
their pedestals, the holes might need
easing by “twiddling” a 4mm twist drill
through the holes with your fingers. Align
the tubes so that they project out about 1
mm each side don’t be tempted to file
them flush). Once you are happy with the
position fix in place with a few drops of
super glue on the inside of the pedestals.
Step 4
Now glue the 3 cross members into their
chassis slots. Make sure that the slightly
longer chassis cut out is to the left and the
small holes for the door hinge is to the front.
Tip
Temporarily fit i.e. don’t glue) the body floor
onto the locating lugs on the cross members
to ensure the cross members are aligned
perfectly.
Now’s a good time to paint the completed
chassis!

Assembly Instructions : Page 4
Step 5
Glue one body end and the fixed body side to the
floor. Either PVA or superglue works well here.
Note that the engraved bands to locate the rivet
straps) should be on the outside; the two small
rectangular holes in the floor should be slightly to
the right of center
Step 6
Glue the other body end onto the body assembly.
Step 7
Glue the three hinge plates to the door.
Step 8
Glue the body to the chassis cross members
Step 9
Glue the two side braces to the bottom of the body
floor and the outside of the body-ends , locating in
the cut outs in the cross members. NB One side
brace is slightly longer to allow for the central
member’s slight offset. If you are using PVA glue you
will need some small clamps to hold the pieces while
the glue sets.

Assembly Instructions : Page 5
Step 10
Glue the 7 thin 4mm) strapping
strips into the engraved recesses in
the body sides.
Step 11
Glue a medium 5mm) strapping strip to a body
end so its outer edge is aligned to the body side.
Ensure the line of rivet heads is away from the
corner. Now glue a large 6mm) strapping strip
on the body side so it overlaps the 5mm strip on
the body end.
Repeat for the other body corner.
Step 12
Locate the door hinges between the
hinge holes on the chassis. Slide the
long steel rod through all 6 holes. Fix
in place with 2 small drops of super
glue on the outer ends of the rod.
Step 13
If you wish to have a working door, fix one of the door latches
with one of the small brass nails provided through the eye into
the tiny locating hole in the corner of the body end. Press the
nail in gently to avoid splitting the top of the side brace.
Alternatively you can simply glue the latch and door in place if
you want the door permanently closed.
Repeat for the other body end.

Assembly Instructions : Page 6
Step 14
Glue one of the “tilt plates” to the body end with its foot
resting of the chassis top. Repeat for the other end noting
that both plates should be leaning towards the door.
Step 15
Super glue a coupling hook into the hole in the dumb
buffer. You will probably have to clean out the hole first by
“twiddling” a 1.5 mm twist drill through it).
Repeat at the other end.
Step 16
Finally push one wheel onto an axle, pass the axle through a bearing tube in the chassis and fit
another wheel to the other end. Gently squeeze the two wheels together in smooth jawed vice until
the “back to back” distance is 28 mm. NB a back to back gauge is provided in the kit to help get this
right.
Repeat for other axle
Job Done!