Briel Computers Replica I User manual

replica I
Setup and Users Manual
Setup and Users ManualSetup and Users Manual
Setup and Users Manual
MARCH 2009 TE EDITION
Briel Computers
Briel ComputersBriel Computers
Briel Computers
5392 Cornell Blvd
North Ridgeville, OH 44039

Replica 1 TE Users Manual
© Briel Computers 2007 page 2
All materials, schematics, and hardware designs provided without any warranties. Although this material has been carefully examined,
Briel Computers takes no responsibility for any errors in printing.
Version 3.0
Published by Briel Computers
5392 Cornell Blvd
North Ridgeville, OH 44039
USA
Copyright 2009 Briel Computers. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. Except as permitted under the
Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a
database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher, with the exception that the program listings may be
entered, stored, and executed in a computer system, but they may not be reproduced for publication.

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© Briel Computers 2007 page 3
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How the replica 1 came to be
Thank you for purchasing your replica 1 computer. I take pride in every kit and assembled replica that is
shipped and my goal is that all kits and assembled boards work as designed. In early 2001 I was an avid
collector of vintage computers. I had started with an Apple IIe because it was close to my first computer the
Apple IIplus. I, like many people who get the urge to relive the yesteryears of computing looked to eBay to find
my past. After receiving my first computer I found myself wanting a monitor, a disk drive, anything to make it
fully functional. I didn’t just want a mantle piece; I wanted to actually use my vintage machine.
After spending some time with my Apple I remembered other computers I had seen in magazines but couldn’t
afford at the time. I little searching and I was able to start a nice little collection of home computers. I was
addicted to vintage computing and collecting everything I could get my hands on.
I was really proud of the fact that every machine I owned, not only worked but I had software to run on them. I
was fast becoming an expert in the area of software conversion from the modern computer realm back to actual
vintage media like 5 ¼” disk.
Feeling proud that I had a nice collection going I stumbled upon the www.applefritter.com website. I felt pretty
versed with apple II hardware and I noticed a small forum there and poked in to read some of the posts. I didn’t
see anything out of the ordinary but I noticed a subject right above the Apple II section labeled Apple I. Well, I
had never seen an Apple I and had only herd the stories like most people about how Woz and Jobs started Apple
Computers from their garage. I had to read more.
I quickly learned that only about 50 Apple 1’s remained in existence from about 200 boards and they were
highly collectable and way out of my price range. I read a post where people talked about making a replica but
nobody was really stepping up to the plate. I have an education in engineering so I decided to take a look into
the Apple 1 hardware.
In March 2002 I wrote to the Applefritter forum requesting some information on the Apple 1 and I informed the
group of my intentions. I was well received and many former and current owners of Apple 1 computers gave me
information and documentation to get started.
With manuals and emails from owners in hand, I looked over every inch of the Apple 1. I quickly decided not to
use all the original components from the Apple 1 due to their lack of ability. Although there are chip suppliers
that carry surplus components, their prices and minimum orders are just out of the question. This left me with a
decision that many people questioned. I could have made the replica 1 look like the Apple 1 but in the spirit of
Woz, I choose to go with more modern components and reduce the chip count as low as possible.
I quickly found that I could interface 32K of RAM with no address decoding. Simply using Address line A15 as
the select line, I could activate the RAM chip with A15 off. So, if the replica 1 was looking anywhere in the
address range 0000-7FFF A15 would be low and RAM chip select activated. If the replica 1 was looking at
address range 8000-FFFF A15 would now be high and the RAM chip select would be deactivated. I added some
logic so that the access time of the RAM write cycle was only during PHI2 of the 6502’s clock. For this I used a
74LS00 NAND gate IC. I needed to invert the R/W signal and AND in PHI2. This required 2 of the 4 NAND
gates in the IC.

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My next step was to add some address decoding so the replica 1 accessed the I/O chip 6821 PIA and ROM at
the same addresses the Apple 1 used. I used a 74LS138 to decode addressing for both the 6821 and an 8K
EEPROM. I also made sure that the space for BASIC (E000-EFFF) was EEPROM so BASIC could be stored in
ROM.
I now had a core CPU section replicated from the Apple 1. I still had no video section and I needed to build a
prototype. After some delays I finally built a prototype on wire-wrap and tested it. It didn’t work. I needed to
troubleshoot the board but my free time was very hard to come by and the replica sat on the shelf for a few
months.
In November of 2002 I received an email from Leander Kahney of Wired Magazine. He had been reading on
the replica project and wanted to interview me. My first reaction was, “Why me?” I had no idea the cult
following that Apple had. I really was fond of Apple since the beginning but Apple has such loyal owners and
they love everything that involves the history. So, here I am on the phone with Leander as he is asking me
questions about why I am doing the project, and when will it be completed and what will I be selling these for?
What? I didn’t have the heart to tell him that the project is on the self, that I have no idea what to sell these for
even if I had a working version. Little did Leander know that because of him, the replica 1 was pulled off the
shelf and completed. I started from scratch, and created a breadboard version of the replica 1. This time it
worked… Sort of… Well, the I/O chip, the 6821 was sending binary code for a “\” which means that the replica
was seeing a reset and the Woz monitor was trying to output a “\” to a TV monitor. Now I needed a video
solution.
Right after the Wired article was released, I received an email from Greg Glawitsch. He stated his interest in the
project and said that he had a “down and dirty” solution to the video problem. His answer was to use a
microcontroller to output TV text like the video terminal section of the manual. He offered to help by writing
the firmware to do this and it would only require a couple external IC’s to help the microcontroller. Wow, 3
chips to do what took about 24 on the Apple 1. This was perfect. And with some work with Greg, we had a
working video section.
In August 2003 the first of the replica prototypes were being made. I didn’t have a name for the board yet and
simply called it A1 replica. I also just put my initials on the board with the year 2003. Shortly after my first
prototypes were built, I created Briel Computers. At this stage my old high school friend Chris contacted Woz
through his webmaster asking for permission to use the Apple 1 code. His approval of the project prompted
another Wired article.
In October 2003, the first replica 1’s was being built and thus completing a 20 year old dream to design and sell
my very own computer. Thanks to Woz for being such a strong influence and great guy to give the ok for this
project.
Vince Briel

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Setup and Users Manual
Index
Chapter 1: A Brief History of the Apple 1
Chapter 2: Introducing the replica 1
Chapter 3: Unpacking and Setting Up
Chapter 4: Assembling Kit Version
Chapter 5: Programming the replica 1
Chapter 6: Using The Serial Interface
Chapter 7: Using the Krusader Assembler
Chapter 8: Troubleshooting your replica 1
Appendix A: ASCII Keyboard Pin Out
Appendix B: Replica 1 Memory Map
Appendix C: Monitor Listing

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Chapter 1: A brief History of the Apple 1
Steve Wozniak had designed and built many different little projects before the Apple 1 computer. The Apple 1
was not even his first computer design. He had designed the “cream soda computer” long before the Apple 1.
He had even designed a TV terminal that could be hooked up to a mainframe computer using a keyboard and
your TV as the display. Of course he also built the infamous “blue box” so people could phone phreak and
make free long distance calls. It wasn’t until Woz decided to combine two projects, and make one complete
computer never seen on the market before. He designed a single board computer and combined his TV terminal
to create what is today known as the Apple 1 Computer. He first presented the project to the Homebrew
Computer Club and it was well received. At that time, the only major computer out there was the Altair 8800
and that only came with LED’s and switches. The Apple 1 had a keyboard and a monitor. When he showed this
to his friend Steve Jobs, Jobs was excited and immediately wanted to make more to sell.
Figure 1: Actual Apple 1 Computer
In April 1976, Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak decided to start Apple Computer Company. It was based on a
computer design that Wozniak had completed making a computer that could display text on a TV and use a
keyboard without any additional boards. One board could do all of this. While it wasn’t the first home
computer, it was the first to give you all of these features on one board without any addition hardware. No
entering code by flipping switches and looking at LED’s. You could actually sit down at a table and type code
into the computer using a standard keyboard. Steve Jobs saw something great in this project and was eager to
start selling these boards.
Woz distributed schematics and source code listings for the Apple 1 computer at the Homebrew Computer Club
meetings in Northern California bay area. Steve Jobs knew that there was enough interest in the boards at the
Homebrew club to sell boards to the members. 200 boards were printed and most of them were assembled but
not all of them. They assembled boards at night in Job’s parents’ garage and sold some to the Homebrew Club.
It wasn’t until a local computer store purchased $50,000 worth of boards that anything significant had
happened. After that, things changed.

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They knew they had a great product and that the average person could have a computer on their kitchen table.
Woz quickly worked on a BAIC for the Apple 1 but it still lacked a means of storage. Shortly after the Apple
1’s release, Woz designed a cassette interface simply named the ACI (Apple Cassette Interface). This interface
allowed the user to store programs onto an audio tape using simple 1 and 2Kh signals to store the data.
While the new interface was being designed and BASIC was being written, the end of the Apple 1 was already
near. Woz was already working on the next version of his design. While many people thought the Apple II was
the same as the Apple 1 with just more features, the Apple II was a completely new design from scratch. This
new design could do color and using processor accessible RAM; you could do graphics and more. While this
was all being designed, the Apple 1 was still being made and sold.
BAIC was finally released and that gave the Apple 1 a high level language for people to program in. This BAIC
was not only written for the Apple 1, but it was also written for the Apple II at the same time. As a matter of
fact, if you look at a disassembly of the Apple 1 BAISC you will see some commands built in that are
impossible to perform, such as COLOR. There was no color graphics on the Apple 1, only text.
As soon as the Apple II was release, Jobs wanted to get rid of all the Apple 1 computers. He offered deals, like
half off an Apple II with the trade in of your old Apple 1. He so wanted to get rid of the Apple 1, that rumor has
it, he even gave some Apple II’s for even exchanges. Some he handed to engineers and programmers at Apple
to use, others he chopped up with a band saw. So, while there were 200 boards made from the board house, not
all were assembled and many were destroyed on the exchange program.
Today, approximately 50 Apple 1’s are known to exist making it one of the most sought after vintage
computers. Some auctions have fetched upwards of $50,000 for an Apple 1 but the average selling price is
around $16,000-$25,000.
Figure 2: Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak shown with an Apple 1 computer in 1976

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Chapter 2: Introducing the replica I TE computer
The replica 1 computer was designed to give those people a chance to see what an Apple I computer looked and
acted like. Most people have never seen an Apple 1 running and the replica 1 helps us see what Woz had
created. The goal of the replica 1 project is to simulate the functional aspects of the Apple 1 so that all hardware
and software designed for the Apple 1 can be used.
Figure 3: Key component features on the replica 1 TE
Not just a simple hobby board. The replica 1 contains features such Apple 1 compatible expansion slot, original
replica 1 connector and your choice of ATX or wall wart power supply.. Other features include a built in serial
port that intercepts the keyboard and video signals so software drivers are not required. A PS/2 keyboard port is
onboard for those who don’t have ACII keyboards, and a simple On/Off switch for applying power to the
replica 1.
Firmware upgradeable: The new TE model (Third Edition) includes a Parallax Propeller micro-controller for the
onboard I/O. The source code is open source and is included with the replica 1 on the CD and updates can be
made via free software to program the Propeller from Parallax website. Programmers are welcome and
encouraged to use the Briel Computers forum to announce custom developed features and improvements to the
firmware. The owner takes all responsibility for any firmware installed that is not released or approved by Briel
Computers. Using untested firmware could damage the replica 1 TE.

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The replica 1 expansion header was designed for the hobby engineer in mind. The Apple 1 expansion slot gives
the user the ability to use Apple 1 compatible boards, or expanding even more with the edge connector and the
3 slot adapter.
As well as being able to run all the original Apple 1 software and hardware, the replica 1 has the capability to
use modern hardware like a ps/2 keyboard and use a standard PC ATX power supply or wall brick power
supply to power the replica 1. The added Serial port gives the user the ability to download programs right from
your PC or Mac into the replica 1 making software sharing possible.
Figure 4: Logic diagram of replica 1 TE computer
Keeping a simple design structure was important with the replica 1. Chip reduction is the way Woz designed the
Apple 1 and the replica 1 follows in its path. While it’s true that the replica 1 TE board contains more IC’s than
the original replica 1, the added features give the user flexibility that wasn’t available before. The TE (Third
Edition) replica 1 uses the new Parallax Propeller as the I/O controller. This new micro-controller has the ability
to handle all I/O including video, serial, and PS/2 port. This feature reduces chip count and eliminates the need
for jumpers.
While the replica 1 has been in production for 5 years, it is always a work in progress. Sometimes bugs and
fixes come up and changes to the board are always discussed on the replica 1 forums. For the latest in design
changes and modifications, see the replica 1 forum at:
http://www.brielcomputers.com/phpBB2/
The replica 1 TE is currently the most advanced replica Apple 1 produced. It encompasses features as requested
by current or future owners of replica 1, as well as design improvements, bug fixes and other enhancements.
All revisions remain backward compatible with the original replica 1.

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Chapter 3: Unpacking and Setting up system.
Before you begin setting up your replica 1 computer, make sure you have plenty of table space. Do not power
up the unit while touching any part of the circuit board and contact Briel computers if you are unsure about any
part of the setup process.
You will need the following items to get your replica 1 up and running:
1. The replica 1 system board.
2. ATX power supply or 7-9V DC wall brick supply positive center.
3. Keyboard, a PC PS/2 or an Apple II/II plus (not //e or //gs).
4. A TV with composite video in, or a composite computer monitor.
5. A video cable to attach to the TV from the replica 1.
Place or mount the replica 1 board so that it is secured. Make sure no metal objects can touch the circuit board
or damage could result. Next you need to choose what type of power supply you are going to use. There are
three ways you can power your replica 1 TE. ATX power supplies are the most commonly used power supplies
in today’s computers. You need to use an ATX power supply if you are planning on using the Apple II ASCII
keyboard because -12V power is required.
If you only intend on using the ps/2 style keyboard you only need a 7-9V wall brick style power supply. While
the replica 1 shows 7V on the board, it is best to use something around 8-9V 1000mA (1.0A) if adding on an
add-on board. You may need to find a heat sink for the 7805 voltage regulator to keep it cool under that much
voltage drop.
Figure 5: DC wall brick connector (Use 7-9V positive center connection power supply)
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTACH BOTH A WALL WART POWER SUPPLY AND AN ATX AT THE
SAME TIME TO YOUR REPLICA 1. DOING SO COULD DAMAGE YOUR REPLICA 1.

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Once you have the power source connected, you can attach your monitor or TV to the replica 1 with a standard
composite video cable. Most modern TV’s have a composite input located on the back of the TV. Plug your
RCA style cable into the back of your TV or monitor and locate the video connector as shown and plug your
cable (not supplied) into the replica 1 (figure 8). While the replica 1 is designed for NTSC composite video,
PAL will work but will be slightly reduced in size on the screen.
Figure 6: Video connector
Next you need to attach a keyboard. You have two choices for keyboards; ps/2 pc style keyboard or an ASCII
keyboard. To use the ps/2 style keyboard locate the ps/2 port on the back edge of the replica 1 and plug your
keyboard into that port (see figure 9).
Figure 7: ps/2 keyboard port
If you are using an Apple 2 or 2+ ASCII keyboard, locate the ASCII keyboard port near the replica 1 logo on
the board and plug your 16pin dip cable into the board. Note that pin 1 is next to the ‘A’ on the ASCII
KEYBOARD label.

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Figure 8: ASCII keyboard port
Now you are ready to test your replica 1 TE. Make sure your TV or monitor is turned on and flip the switch on
the replica 1 up. The red LED next to the switch should light up and a solid block cursor should appear in the
upper left corner. If you do not see the cursor at the top of the screen, or the LED is not lit, turn the replica 1 off
and recheck your work.
Press RESET on the board and your replica will respond with a backslash “\” and the cursor will drop to the
next line. The cursor is a blinking ‘@’ symbol just like the original Apple 1 computer. You are now in the Woz
monitor and ready to use your replica 1 TE. If you are using the PS/2 style keyboard you will notice that the
caps lock is already on by default for you. The apple 1 only understands uppercase characters so does the
replica 1.

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Chapter 4: Assembling the replica 1 TE kit
If you have experience with soldering circuit boards, then not only will you enjoy the replica 1 kit, but you will
also have the pride in assembling it yourself while saving money. If you have never built a circuit board kit,
please start with something a little simpler before attempting to build the replica 1. This chapter is only
designed as a brief guide to help you assemble your replica 1.
Kit contents:
All kits have been carefully assembled to insure that no parts are missing; however, you should check the
inventory to make sure you have everything. If you find anything missing, please contact Briel Computers.
IC’s:
QTY MODEL ID # of Pins
1 6502 U1 40
1 6821 U2 40
1 62256 U4 28
1 27C64 U3 28
1 P8X32A-D40 U8 40
1 74LS00 U6 14
1 74LS04 U7 14
1 74LS138 U5 16
1 74LS245 U10 20
1 MAX232 U11 16
1 24LC256 U9 8
1 7805 V1 3
1 3940 (3.3V) V2 3
Sockets:
QTY # of Pins
3 40 pin
2 28 pin (.6 wide)
1 20 pin
2 16 pin
1 16 pin duel swipe
2 14 pin
1 8 pin
Crystals and Oscillators:
QTY Type Size Speed
1 Crystal HC49/U 5MHz (X2)
1 Oscillator Full Can 1MHz

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Connectors:
QTY Type
1 ATX Male connector
1 RCA style video connector
1 PS/2 keyboard connector
1 2.1mm DC power connector
1 DB-9 Female serial connector
1 40 pin .100” expansion header
1 44 pin .156” Apple 1 style slot
Switches:
QTY Type
2 PCB board-mount mini momentary push button
1 PCB board-mount toggle DPDT switch
Resistors:
QTY Size ID
9 3.3K R1-R8
10 1K ohms R9-R18
2 100 ohms R19, R20
2 220 ohms R21, R22
1 560 ohms R23
2 10K ohms R24, R25
Capacitors:
QTY Size ID
11 .1uF C1-C11
2 .01uF C12, C13
7 10uF C14-C20
2 100uF C21, C22
DISPLAYS:
QTY Type
1 Jumbo Red LED

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Misc:
QTY Type
1 2N4401 Transistor
1 8.5”X5” replica 1 TE silk screened PCB with expansion male edge
Tools required for assembly:
Soldering iron, solder, wire cutters, needle nose pliers, and a multi-meter
Before you begin:
Make sure you have proper working space and that you heat your iron before beginning the assembly. This kit
is not for beginners and Briel Computers assumes that you have some prior experience with soldering circuit
boards. If you have never soldered circuit boards before or don’t feel you are ready, you should build other kits
of a smaller, less complex nature before building your replica 1.
Reading and identifying resistors:
In previous revisions of the replica 1 kits, all parts were labeled in an effort to make it easier on the kit builder.
Now, the manual is being expanded to help newcomers to kits learn to identify the parts and read their values.
Resistors have 4 colored bands on them that are used to identify the value. The first 3 are the value and the 4th
colored band is to identify the tolerance of the resistor. The 4th band is usually silver for 10% or gold for 5%
tolerance. Here is how to read the other three to get the value:
Figure 9: Resistor color code chart
Let’s assume the resistor you are trying to identify has the colors orange, and then another orange, then a red
band followed with a gold band. So, to read the resistor, find the gold or silver band, that identifies the 4th band.
Hold the resistor so the 4th band is on the right side and read the first color on the left.

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The first color is orange which has a value of 3 according to the chart above. The second color is also orange
which also has a value of 3. The 3rd number indicates how many zeros follow the first two numbers. So, red is 2
zeros. This gives your resistor a value of 3, 3 and 2 0’s (00) or 3300=3.3K. This may take some practice but
look through all the resistors and identify them without a meter if you need practice.
Reading and identifying capacitors:
It takes less time to read the values of the capacitors than to read the values of the resistors. The key is to
understand and read the numbers correctly.
Larger capacitors may have the values clearly printed on them. For example:
10uF = 10 Micro Farads
Smaller capacitors however, may only have 2 or 3 numbers on them. For example, the 22uF capacitors say 22J.
.1uF capacitors have the value 104 on them. This is similar to the resistor codes where the first 2 numbers are
actual numbers and the 3rd number is the multiplier code. So 10 X 4 is 100,000 and the value is in pico Farads
(pF). Converting it to a proper numbering format gives us the value .1uF. To make things easier, here is a list of
the values on the capacitors used and the numbers printed on them.
Value Identifying numbers QTY
.01uF 103 2
.1uF 104 15
22pF 22J 4
.22uF 224M 1
Power LED:
Figure 10: LED pin internal diagram
Looking at the LED there are two connectors, the Anode is longer and has the smaller connector inside. The
cathode is the negative side. It has a shorter lead and a larger part inside the LED. The cathode is the negative
post. Connecting is simple on the replica 1. The LED silkscreen on the replica 1 has the positive + marked.
Simply put the longer anode connector into the positive side when installing.
Ready to Begin Assembly:
Now that you have inventoried all parts you are ready to begin assembly of your replica 1.
Step 1: Start with the resistors. Bend the leads on each side of the resistor 90 degrees near the edge of the
resistor. Insert the resistor into its proper location until it rests flush with the board. They are not polarized so

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that can be installed either direction. While holding the resistor with one finger, bend the pins on the bottom
side away from each other so that the resistor will not fall out and will stay flush on the board. Flip the board
over and solder the resistor down to the board. Cut the extra lead length off and throw away. Repeat for all
resistors carefully making sure each one goes in the proper location.
Step 2: Solder in the reset and clear screen buttons. You may need to tape these down before you flip the board
over.
Step 3: Install the sockets. I prefer to start with the 40 pin sockets but you can do them in any order you prefer.
Please note that one of the 16 pin sockets is a duel swipe older style that goes in the ASCII keyboard socket.
When installing sockets, notice the notch at one end of the socket, find the matching notch on the board. Hold
the socket firmly to the board and flip the board over. Carefully set down the board so that the socket doesn’t
come out. Solder in place. Repeat for the remaining sockets.
Step 4: Install the 1MHz oscillator. If you look carefully you will notice that one corner is not rounded. This
indicates pin 1. Match pin 1 to the silkscreen (closer to the X1 label). Install like the sockets but clip the extra
lead length off.
Step 5: Install the .1uF & .01uF capacitors C1-C11, C12 & C13. They are not polarized so that can be installed
either direction. Install the capacitors in a similar way to the resistors where you bend the leads away from one
another to hold the capacitor in place so you can flip the board over. Solder and cut the extra lead length off.
Step 6: Install the LED. As described earlier the longer lead is the +. Install the LED all the way flush, and bend
the leads away from one another like with the resistors and capacitors. Solder and cut the extra lead lengths.
Step 7: Install the 40 pin expansion connector (notice there is no incorrect way to install but pin 1 is closer to
the reset button. This will be a little harder to install because the header pins are close together.
Step 8: Install the Transistor. Orientate the transistor the same as on the board and insert all the way flush as
possible with the board. Solder and remove the extra lead length.
Step 9: Install the DC power connector and power switch. The pins on the switch may require adjusting.
Step 10: Install the RCA video connector. When you insert the connector into the board, bend the center pin
over flat so it lay’s down. Solder pins into place.
Step 11: Install the DB9 RS232 connector. Use care when inserting the connector into the board. Placing a little
solder on the large holding tabs helps ensure a firm connector.
Step 12: Install the PS/2 keyboard connector. Some versions of this connector come with extra retaining tabs on
the left and right side, remove before installing. Use care when installing as this connectors pins are fragile.
Step 13: Install the 44 pin Apple 1 slot. Pin 1 on the slot has a dot next to it.
Step 14: Install the C14-C20 10uF capacitors. The arrow on the capacitors points towards the NEGATIVE. On
the PCB the positive is identified, so the negative is the other pin hole. Mount flush onto the board, bend the
leads away from one another and solder. Cut away excess lead length.

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Step 15: Install two 100uF Capacitors C21 & C22. Installation is identical to the 10uF Capacitors installed in
step 14.
Step 16: Install the two voltage regulators. The 7805 goes near the power switch and the 3940 goes near the
upper right corner. The large flat metal part of the regulator faces to the edge of the board on both regulators.
Install the regulators all the way flush with the board. The leads are thick and are harder to cut after soldering.
Step 17: Install the ATX power connector. Be sure the connector is flush with the board before soldering.
Step 18: Install the 5MHz crystal. The crystal is not polarized so it can be installed in either direction. Install
flush to the board, bend the leads away from one another and solder the leads. Cut the extra lead length.
Inspection of your work:
Now that you have completed your soldering, take a few minutes and look over your work. Check for solder
spots that might not be good connections to the posts. Look for bridges where solder may have jumped over
where it wasn’t supposed to go.
Testing your replica 1:
Before installing your IC’s, power up your replica 1. With your multi-meter, check the voltages 5V and GND.
make sure your LED is lit properly. Test pin 14 and pin 7 on the 74LS00 & 74LS04 to make sure you are
getting 5V. Check pin 8 and 16 on 74LS138 for 5V. Once you are satisfied that the power is being distributed
correctly, power off the replica. Install the P8X32A-D40 and 24LC256 EEPROM. Attach an RCA cable to the
replica 1 video port and attach it to your monitor or TV. Power up your replica 1 and see if you get a cursor. It
may move across the screen and that is normal since it is getting a false trigger. If the video section is working
properly, turn off the replica 1 and install the rest of the chips. Power up the replica 1 again, this time press
‘RESET’ button after a couple of seconds and see if the replica 1 resets.
If the circuit is working properly, you will get a “\” backslash followed by the cursor ‘@’ moving to the next
line. At this point you can power off the replica 1 once more and attach your keyboard. Power up the replica 1,
reset the circuit and try out the keyboard. Congratulations, your replica 1 is now assembled and ready to use.
Caution: Before plugging in the power supply, keyboard and video connector, thoroughly check
over your work for errors.
Any parts that get accidentally damaged during the building process can be replaced at the owner’s expense.
Contact Briel Computers for any replacement parts needed.
The goal of Briel Computers is that ALL replica 1 kits get completed successfully. If you are having a problem,
please feel free to ask for help.

Replica 1 TE Users Manual
© Briel Computers 2007 page 19
Use this page to document any notes needed for assembly

Replica 1 TE Users Manual
© Briel Computers 2007 page 20
Chapter 5: Programming the replica 1
The replica 1 can be programmed in one of 3 built in ways. You can enter values into memory directly using the
Woz monitor. Another way is to use BASIC that is built into ROM. BASIC was the most commonly used
language among beginner all the way to experienced programmers in the 70’s and 80’s. The third built in way
to program your replica 1 SE is to use the new Krusader© assembler written by Ken Wessen.
Using the Woz monitor:
The Woz monitor is a tool that gives you direct access to memory to program code that the 6502 will interpret.
To use the Woz monitor program, simply power up your replica 1. Just like the original Apple 1© you had to
manually reset the circuit to get the computer started. Simply press the reset button on the circuit board and you
will see a backslash ‘\’ and the cursor will drop below the backslash. You are now in the Woz monitor.
There are three basic functions to the Woz monitor. First, you can examine a range of memory or just one
location. To examine one location of memory, just type in the address and press [return]. To view memory
location 300 it would look like this:
300[RETURN]
0300: E1
The cursor will then move below the line that displayed the value of the memory location. To display a block of
memory, type in the starting location followed by a period ‘.’; follow that with the ending location. To view
300-32F locations, type:
300.32F[RETURN]
The replica will display the memory contents up to 8 locations per line:
0300: E1 20 94 17 08 26 60 10
0308: E4 98 02 86 88 44 A5 50
0310: 3C 2D 20 9D 7E 18 60 8C
0318: 0F 00 18 24 90 24 06 50
0320: 42 07 06 A0 89 81 00 C6
0328: 80 60 41 12 E0 1B A3 04
Again, the cursor will be below the listing.
To program a location in memory, simply type in the address followed by the value to write to it. For example,
to program location 300 with the value FF, simply type:
300:FF [RETURN]
The Woz monitor will respond by displaying the old value of the memory location:
0300:E1