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BSA WDM20
WORKSHOP
MANUAL
Private L. Wilkings, Essex Regiment, 14-4-1945. Somewhere in Holland
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
INDEX – GENERAL
Pages Pages
Brakes 28 Front Forks 23
Carburetter 10 Gearbox and Gearchange 25
Clutch 21 Hubs 27
Charging System 36 Ignition System 32
Electrical Wiring System 30-31 Lighting and Accessories 42
Engine Adjustments 8 Lubrication System 3
Engine – Complete dismantling 12 Lubrication Chart 4-5
Engine – Decarbonising 11 Steering Head 28
Engine – re-assembly 16 Transmission 20
Engine – removal from frame 12 Useful Data 2
INDEX – DETAILS
Pages Pages
BRAKES
Ignition System - continued
Adjustment – Relining 28 Slipping clutch – sparking plug -
CARBURETTER
Suppressor - immobiliser 33
Mixture – Needle position – Pilot adjustment – Re-assembling and testing slipping clutch 35
Throttle stop. 10 Lighting and Accessories
ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS
Headlamp – Tail lamp – Cables - Lighting
Oil-pressure valves – Exhaust valve lifter 8 switch 42
Tappets – Ignition timing 8-9 Horn 43
ENGINE DISMANTLING
Wiring diagrams 30-31
Cylinder head – Cylinder barrel – Valves 6-7
Valve grinding – Valve guides, removal FRONT FORKS
and replacement 11 Adjustment 28
Piston and Rings – Checking ring gap – Dismantling – fitting new spring – re-assembly 29
removing engine from frame 12
Removing Magdyno pinion 13 GEARBOX
Oil pump, removal and dismantling – Removal – dismantling 23
“Splitting” crankcase – removing Dismantling Gearchange – Re-assembling
Bearings 14 Gearbox 24
Removing cam spindles – dismantling Re-assembling gearchange 25
flywheels – reboring cylinder - fitting Replacing gearbox 26
new cylinder lining. 15
ENGINE RE-ASSEMBLY
HUBS
Flywheel assembly and alignment 16 Rear – adjustment – dismantling and
Replacing oil pump – tappets – replacing Re-assembly 27
bearings – re-assembling crankcase - Front 27-28
Replacing timing gears & magdyno 17
Replacing piston – cylinder barrel - timing LUBRICATION
Cover – cylinder head – exhaust valve Engine lubricating system 3
lifter – refitting engine in frame. 18 Lubrication chart 4
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Hubs – Brake cam spindles - Speedometer
Charging System Drive – Filters – Rear chain – Dynamo -
Dynamo Gearbox 5
Testing – Removal and Replacement 36 Oil pump – removal – dismantling and
Dismantling – Brushes - Commutator 37 Re-assembly 14
Field coil, testing and removing -
Armature – Bearings 38 TRANSMISSION
Re-assembly 39 Clutch – adjustment 20
Cut-out and Regulator 39 Clutch – dismantling 21
Cleaning contacts – setting regulator - Clutch – re-assembly 22
Cut-out 40 Chaincase - removal 12
Ammeter – Removal and Replacement 41 Chaincase - replacement 18
Battery – Care of 41 Chain adjustment 20
Ignition System Wheel alignment 21
Magneto lubrication – adjustment – testing -
Cleaning contact breaker – H.T. cable - SHOCK ABSORBER – Adjustment 28
Pick-up 32
Removal – dismantling – removing and STEERING HEAD
testing armature 34 Adjustment 28
Re-assembly 35 Dismantling – re-assembly 29
1
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
USEFUL DATA
Engine bore 82 mm
Engine stroke M20 94 mm
Engine stroke M21 112 mm
Engine Capacity 496cc
Petrol tank capacity 3 gallons
Oil tank capacity 5 pints
Gearbox capacity 1 pint
Inlet tappet clearance (cold) .010”
Exhaust tappet (cold) .012”
Compression M20 4,9:1
Compression M21 5:1
Tyres 3.25/3.50-19
Tyre Pressure 22psi
Piston ring gap .008 - .012”
Piston clearance Bottom of skirt .0035 - .0055”
Piston Ring side clearance .002" - .004"
Ignition timing 7/16” BTDC
Magneto point gap .012”
Spark plug gap .012 - .018”
Carburetter- Jet 170
Carburetter- Needle 2nd notch
Engine Sprocket 19 teeth
Clutch sprocket 43 teeth
Gearbox Sprocket 18 teeth
Rear Wheel Sprocket 42 teeth
Primary Chain 95 links
Gear Ratio- Top 5.3
Gear Ratio- 3rd 7.0
Gear Ratio- 2nd 10.9
Gear Ratio- 1st 15.8
2
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Fig. 1. Lubrication System
The engine lubrication system is of the dry sump type
operated by a double gear pump, situated in the
bottom of the crankcase on the right-hand side.
All oilways are internal except for the supply and
return pipes from the tank. The oil flows from the
tank to the supply pump (the top pair of gears) and
thence past the pressure valve (A) to the two oilways
feeding the cam spindles, and along the hollow
mainshaft to the big end bearing. After lubricating
the big end and circulating through the engine in the
form of a mist, the oil drains down through a filter in
the bottom of the crankcase, from which it is drawn
by the return pump (lower pair of gears) past ball
valve (C), and delivered up the return pipe to the
tank, where it passes through a fine mesh filter into
the tank itself.
Incorrect seating of the ball valve (A), will allow oil to
transfer from the tank to the engine, whilst the
machine is stationary. If the ball valve (C) should get
stuck in its seating, there will be no return of oil to the
tank. To check the oil circulation open the tank filler
cap and remove filter cap whilst the engine is
running. Oil should be seen issuing from the return
pipe from the crankcase. The tank and crankcase
should be drained every 2,000 miles and replenished
with clean oil.
Any restriction in the pressure release pipe in the
tank will cause an increase in pressure inside the oil
tank, and will result in leakage of oil at the filler cap.
This can be put right by inserting a length of flexible
wire into the pipe at its lower end (just in front of the
rear mudguard) and pushing the wire right up the
pipe, thus clearing any obstruction.
To remove the oil tank filter for cleaning, release the
tank filler cap, release the filter tap thus exposed, and
lift filter out. The filter should be placed in a can large
enough to cover it with petrol, and thoroughly
washed. Before replacing make sure that it is quite
dry of petrol.
The pump filter can be withdrawn after removing the
cover plate (B) and should be thoroughly washed
with petrol, dried and replaced.
NOTE. It is not advisable to remove the oil pump
unless the pump is definitely faulty.
3
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
LUBRICATION
Fig 2. – Lubrication Chart
4
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
LUBRICATION CHART
No PART Lubricant Type of
Lubrication
Daily 250 Miles
(Inclusive)
General
FRAME GROUP
3 Front fork (top) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
2 Front fork (centre) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
4 Steering Stem (top) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
5 Steering Stem (bottom) CG-1 (AL) 2 nipple Grease Gun
7 Steering Head (top) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
6 Steering Head (bottom) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
8 Saddle nose pivot CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
11 Front wheel hub CG-1 (AL) Re pack - Re pack w shops every 5000 miles
12 Rear wheel hub CG-1 (AL) Re pack - Re pack w shops every 5000 miles
BRAKE GROUP
9 Brake pedal CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
16 Brake cam (front) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
15 Brake cam (rear) CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
Bowden control wire OE-30 Oil Can Few Drops
Foot brake linkage OE-30 Oil Can Few Drops
ENGINE GROUP
1 Engine oil tank OE50 5 pints Replenish Replenish Drain & refill at 1000 miles (AO17)
19 Primary chain case OE50 Reservoir Replenish Replenish Drain & refill at 1000 miles (AO17)
1/20 Oil Filters OE50 Wash in petrol every 2000 miles
IGNITION GROUP
Advance Retard Cable etc OE30 Oil Can Few drops
Contact breaker tappet OE30 Oil Can One drop
22 Contact breaker cam CG-1 (AL) Hand smear Slight smear
Generator (drive end) WB-2 Re pack Re pack w shops
21 Generator (commutator end) OE30 Oil Can Few drops
FUEL GROUP
Air cleaner N/A
Carburetter control cables OE30 Oil Can Few drops
Throttle handle bar grip OE30 Oil Can Few drops
TRANSMISSION GROUP
10 Speedometer drive CG-1 (AL) 1 nipple Grease Gun
Speedometer cable OE30 Oil can Few drops
14 Gear box GO-90 1 pint Replenish Drain & refill each 6000 miles No 18
12 Clutch push rod OE-50 Oil can Few drops
Clutch bowden control wire OE30 Oil can Few drops
Clutch handle bar grip OE30 Oil can Few drops
Rear chain OE30 Oil can Few drops Wash in paraffin and soak in oil OE-
50 every 2000 miles. Workshops
5
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
THE ENGINE – EXPLODED VIEW
Fig. 3. Top half of engine (exploded view)
6
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
THE ENGINE – EXPLODED VIEW
Fig.4. Crankcase half of engine (exploded view)
7
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS
Which can be carried out without dismantling
OIL PRESSURE VALVES
As described under the heading “How the Lubrication
System Works” on page 3 there are two ball valves
incorporated in the lubrication system to prevent the
transfer of oil from the tank to the crankcase.
The spring loaded valve is located in the delivery
passage between the pump and the big-end, and lies
behind the hexagon plug at the lowest point of the
timing cover (see Fig. 5).
Fig. 5. Pressure valve in timing cover.
Should any foreign matter lodge between the ball and
its seating oil will gradually transfer from the tank
when the machine is left standing, and when the
engine is started up there will be a heavy discharge
of blue smoke from the exhaust.
To rectify, remove the plug, spring and ball. The
simplest way of removing the ball is to hold the hand
close to the orifice and gently turn the engine over,
when the ball will be forced out.
Clean the ball and the seating, and if on replacing
there is still doubt as to whether the ball is seating
properly, insert a small punch against the ball and
deal it a sharp tap with a light hammer. Finally
replace the spring and plug.
The other ball valve is located between the return
pump (Fig. 6), and apparent failure of the return
pump may be due to this ball having stuck in its
seating.
To rectify, remove the pump cover plate, insert a
piece of wire into the valve orifice and lift the ball off
its seating. Should the trouble keep recurring it may
be necessary to fit a new base plate to the pump.
On no account remove the oil pump unless it is
absolutely necessary.
EXHAUST VALVE LIFTER
The peg on the exhaust valve lifter inside the tappet
chest must always be well clear of the collar on the
exhaust tappet (see Fig. 7), otherwise the engine will
be noisy and the tappet clearances seriously
affected. Failure to check that there is clearance at
this point may result in a badly burnt exhaust valve.
Adjustment is carried out by means of the cable
adjuster at the side of the tappet chest.
Fig. 6. Ball valve below return pump.
TAPPET ADJUSTMENT
Before any attempt is made to adjust tappet
clearances, check that the exhaust valve lifter is
correctly adjusted as explained in the previous
paragraph.
To check and adjust tappet clearances, it is most
essential, owing to the special design of the cam
form (see Fig. 8), that the following procedure be
adhered to.
Fig. 7. Tappet and exhaust valve lifter.
Rotate engine forward until the inlet valve has just
closed (until tappet is just free to rotate).
Now adjust the exhaust tappet clearance to .012”.
Turn engine forward again until the exhaust tappet
clearance is just taken up (but before valve actually
starts to lift).
Now adjust inlet tappet clearance to .010”
8
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG
Fig. 8. Instructions for setting tappets
The actual adjustment is carried out by releasing the
locknut (B) (Fig. 8), holding the tappet with a spanner
on the flat (C), and screwing the tappet head (A)
either up or down. When correct clearance is
obtained, the locknut must be tightened against the
tappet head. It is advisable, after locking up, to
check clearance again, to make sure that the
adjustment has not been affected.
Tappet adjustment should always be carried out with
the engine dead cold, and the clearances
recommended above regarded as a minimum,
especially in the case of the exhaust valve.
IGNITION TIMING
It is a rare occurrence for the magneto pinion to
slacken off and disturb the ignition setting, and it is
not advisable to interfere with the setting unless it is
known to be at fault.
It is however advisable to check over the timing after
carrying out any adjustment to the magneto contact
points, as a slight variation of the points tends to
advance or retard the timing. (Opening the points
advances timing, closing them retards timing).
If the timing requires re-setting, first remove the
timing cover, and in so doing take care not to
damage the small nozzle in the timing cover which
feeds oil to the hollow crankshaft.
With the cover removed, take off the nut locking the
magneto pinion on its shaft, and with the aid of a
magneto pinion extractor (Fig. 10) release the pinion
on its taper. (Note that the pinion is held on its shaft
by a plain taper only, and can only be released with
safety by using the proper extractor.)
Fig. 9. Ignition timing,
Check that the fully open gap is correct to gauge (not
exceeding .012”).
To re-set timing, turn engine forward until piston
reaches top dead centre on the compression stroke
(see Fig. 9). Now turn engine backwards until piston
has descended 7/16”. With ignition control at full
advance turn contact breaker in its direction of
rotation until the points are just about to open (not
more than .002” open). Lightly tighten the magneto
pinion nut and carefully check figures and positions.
Then tighten nut properly and re-check.
Fig. 10. Magneto pinion extractor.
9
WWW.PlanDeGraissage.ORG