Burl Rice PS 5077 User manual

PS 5077 cu. ft. Boxcar
with EOC device
1:29 scale resin craftsman kit
by Burl Rice
www.burlrice.com

Bill of materials (not included):
• Thick/medium viscosity CA
• PL adhesive, or Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction adhesive (or similar plastic safe adhesive)
• 2-56 thread cutting screws
• 1/16" brass rod
• .025" phosphor-bronze wire
• .015 x .125" styrene
• .080 x .125" styrene
• .020 x .100" styrene
• .060 x .188" styrene
• Chain, 15 links per inch (For the brakewheel/brake cylinder - jewelery chain works well, the cheaper the better)
Tools required:
• 5/64" drill bit
• 3/32" drill bit
• 1/16" drill bit
• 1.5mm drill bit
• #65 drill bit
• 123 blocks, or a small square
Resin preparation:
When gluing resin components, if possible, rough up the glue surface first with medium (160-200 grit) sandpaper for a better bond.
Large resin components may have small bubbles on their backs. Sanding the back may make them more pronounced. This is normal.
Storage of resin parts:
Keep resin components out of direct sunlight, unless painted. Always store them flat on their backs. Avoid storage in an excessively hot
environment (such as an attic).

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Bulkheads (6)
Roof
Sides (2)
Underframe
Center sill (2)
End ribs (2 left, 2 right)
Doors (2)
Ends (2)
Underframe ribs (4)
Truck mount (2)
Couplers (2)
Truck washers (2)
Trucks (2)
Glad hands (2)
End walks (2)
Rivets (8)
Contents

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End railing, towing staples, AB component mounts (2)
Brake rigging, trainline/anglecock (2)
Cut levers (2)
Brake fulcrum (set & released)
Slack adjuster
Brake rod hangers
Stirrup steps (4)
Door handles (2)
Brake wheel
Large tack boards (4), small tack boards (2),
defect cards (2), door track supports (24),
door stops (2)
Center sill components (2), small underframe ribs (12)
End steps
Glad hands
Rivets (8)
Reservoir, cylinder, ABD valve, brake wheel housing
Contents (continued)

1) Clamp the sides together, back
to back, and verify they are exactly
the same length. If not sand until
they are.
2) Using a square (or a 1-2-3 block, as pictured),
carefully align one side to one end. Tack them
together with CA from the back.
Repeat with the other 3 corners.
NOTE: Do not glue the entire seam at this time.
Body
Before beginning assembly of the main body, sand off any flash from the parts. Using 100 grit sand paper, also sand the backs of the
castings.
3) Check the fit of the roof. After you are
satisfied with the alignment, tack it's corners to
the body with a small drops of CA. Tack one
side, check for square again, then tack the other
side.
NOTE: Do not glue the entire seam at this time.

4) After the main body has been tacked together, and you're satisfied with the alignment and squareness, begin gluing the roof to the body,
from the inside, starting in the center and working towards the end. Be careful to maintain an even roof overhang.
After the roof seams are fully glued, glue the corner seams fully.
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5) Tack the bulkheads in place with CA. Use the ribs on the car body to align them. Use thick CA to make up any gaps. Take care not to
squeeze the body inward if the outter-most bulkheads don't fit tight.
Make a pencil mark on the inside of the body so you can find the center of the bulkheads after the underframe is in place.

6) Center the underframe, and drill a 5/64"
hole into the bulkhead. Re-drill the through
the underframe ONLY with a 3/32" bit.
Repeat for the other end of the car.
Do not insert the screws at this time.
7) Fully glue the bulkheads to the inside of the car body
with thick CA.
After the CA is dry, use PL adhesive, or Gorilla Glue
Heavy Duty Construction adhesive (or similar plastic safe
adhesive) to reinforce the bulkheads.

8) Glue the top sill extension in place. To
blend the seam, apply automotive glazing
putty, then sand flush.
Glue .015 x .125" styrene in the groove
under the top sill.
Glue on the end ribs.
9) Glue the door to the car body.
For the lower door track, draw a reference line on the car
body, even with the bottom of the door. Then glue on the
door track supports, and glue a strip of .080 x .125" styrene to
the supports.
Make the upper door track out of .060 x .188" styrene and
.020 x .100" styrene.
Glue on the upper & lower door stops.
NOTE: the upper stop is two pieces.

10) Drill a 1.5mm hole for the door
mechanism. Put a dab of CA on the
pin, and insert it into the hole.
Glue the large & small tack boards to
the door.
Glue on the defect card ----->
11) Drill out the holes for the grab irons
with a #65 drill bit. Using .025" wire,
bend the grab irons. Put a small dab of
CA on the end of the wire, and insert it
into the hole.
12) Lay the roof end panels on a
flat surface, with the joint as
tight as you can get it, and
apply tape to hold them
together. Then glue them to the
end of the roof. Take care to
ensure they are centered.

Underframe
13) NOTE: the underframe is not attached to the car body at this point.
Remove the flash from the ribs, and drill them out with a 1/16" drill bit.
Also drill a 1/16" hole in the center sill and the bolsters.
Bend 1/16" brass wire as shown, and thread it through the ribs. Once
satisfied with the alignment, glue the ribs to the underframe.
Repeat this step for the other end of the car.
14) Clean the flash off the truck mount, and drill out the
center pin with a 5/64" bit. Also drill out the four
corners of the truck mount. Note that the truck mount,
if oriented properly, will be centered in reference to the
bolster.
Glue on the end ribs, using the scribe lines on the
underframe for alignment.
You will need to test fit the trucks at this stage, because
the 2-56 screw will be too long. Put the screw in, and
mark it from the back, then remove & cut it to the
proper length. Leave the trucks off for now, and save
the screws somewhere.