Burl rice Ps 5077 User manual

PS 5077 cu. ft. Boxcar

with EOC device

1:29 scale resin craftsman kit

by Burl Rice

www.burlrice.com

Bill of materials (not included):

• Thick/medium viscosity CA

• PL adhesive, or Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction adhesive (or similar plastic safe adhesive)

• 2-56 thread cutting screws

• 1/16" brass rod

• .025" phosphor-bronze wire

• .015 x .125" styrene

• .080 x .125" styrene

• .020 x .100" styrene

• .060 x .188" styrene

• Chain, 15 links per inch (For the brakewheel/brake cylinder - jewelery chain works well, the cheaper the better)

Tools required:

• 5/64" drill bit

• 3/32" drill bit

• 1/16" drill bit

• 1.5mm drill bit

• #65 drill bit

• 123 blocks, or a small square

Resin preparation:

When gluing resin components, if possible, rough up the glue surface first with medium (160-200 grit) sandpaper for a better bond.

Large resin components may have small bubbles on their backs. Sanding the back may make them more pronounced. This is normal.

Storage of resin parts:

Keep resin components out of direct sunlight, unless painted. Always store them flat on their backs. Avoid storage in an excessively hot

environment (such as an attic).

Bulkheads (6)

Roof

Sides (2)

Underframe

Center sill (2)

End ribs (2 left, 2 right)

Doors (2)

Ends (2)

Underframe ribs (4)

Truck mount (2)

Couplers (2)

Truck washers (2)

Trucks (2)

Glad hands (2)

End walks (2)

Rivets (8)

Contents

End railing, towing staples, AB component mounts (2)

Brake rigging, trainline/anglecock (2)

Cut levers (2)

Brake fulcrum (set & released)

Slack adjuster

Brake rod hangers

Stirrup steps (4)

Door handles (2)

Brake wheel

Large tack boards (4), small tack boards (2),

defect cards (2), door track supports (24),

door stops (2)

Center sill components (2), small underframe ribs (12)

End steps

Glad hands

Rivets (8)

Reservoir, cylinder, ABD valve, brake wheel housing

Contents (continued)

1) Clamp the sides together, back

to back, and verify they are exactly

the same length. If not sand until

they are.

2) Using a square (or a 1-2-3 block, as pictured),

carefully align one side to one end. Tack them

together with CA from the back.

Repeat with the other 3 corners.

NOTE: Do not glue the entire seam at this time.

Body

Before beginning assembly of the main body, sand off any flash from the parts. Using 100 grit sand paper, also sand the backs of the

castings.

3) Check the fit of the roof. After you are

satisfied with the alignment, tack it's corners to

the body with a small drops of CA. Tack one

side, check for square again, then tack the other

side.

NOTE: Do not glue the entire seam at this time.

4) After the main body has been tacked together, and you're satisfied with the alignment and squareness, begin gluing the roof to the body,

from the inside, starting in the center and working towards the end. Be careful to maintain an even roof overhang.

After the roof seams are fully glued, glue the corner seams fully.

2 2

5) Tack the bulkheads in place with CA. Use the ribs on the car body to align them. Use thick CA to make up any gaps. Take care not to

squeeze the body inward if the outter-most bulkheads don't fit tight.

Make a pencil mark on the inside of the body so you can find the center of the bulkheads after the underframe is in place.

6) Center the underframe, and drill a 5/64"

hole into the bulkhead. Re-drill the through

the underframe ONLY with a 3/32" bit.

Repeat for the other end of the car.

Do not insert the screws at this time.

7) Fully glue the bulkheads to the inside of the car body

with thick CA.

After the CA is dry, use PL adhesive, or Gorilla Glue

Heavy Duty Construction adhesive (or similar plastic safe

adhesive) to reinforce the bulkheads.

8) Glue the top sill extension in place. To

blend the seam, apply automotive glazing

putty, then sand flush.

Glue .015 x .125" styrene in the groove

under the top sill.

Glue on the end ribs.

9) Glue the door to the car body.

For the lower door track, draw a reference line on the car

body, even with the bottom of the door. Then glue on the

door track supports, and glue a strip of .080 x .125" styrene to

the supports.

Make the upper door track out of .060 x .188" styrene and

.020 x .100" styrene.

Glue on the upper & lower door stops.

NOTE: the upper stop is two pieces.

10) Drill a 1.5mm hole for the door

mechanism. Put a dab of CA on the

pin, and insert it into the hole.

Glue the large & small tack boards to

the door.

Glue on the defect card ----->

11) Drill out the holes for the grab irons

with a #65 drill bit. Using .025" wire,

bend the grab irons. Put a small dab of

CA on the end of the wire, and insert it

into the hole.

12) Lay the roof end panels on a

flat surface, with the joint as

tight as you can get it, and

apply tape to hold them

together. Then glue them to the

end of the roof. Take care to

ensure they are centered.

Underframe

13) NOTE: the underframe is not attached to the car body at this point.

Remove the flash from the ribs, and drill them out with a 1/16" drill bit.

Also drill a 1/16" hole in the center sill and the bolsters.

Bend 1/16" brass wire as shown, and thread it through the ribs. Once

satisfied with the alignment, glue the ribs to the underframe.

Repeat this step for the other end of the car.

14) Clean the flash off the truck mount, and drill out the

center pin with a 5/64" bit. Also drill out the four

corners of the truck mount. Note that the truck mount,

if oriented properly, will be centered in reference to the

bolster.

Glue on the end ribs, using the scribe lines on the

underframe for alignment.

You will need to test fit the trucks at this stage, because

the 2-56 screw will be too long. Put the screw in, and

mark it from the back, then remove & cut it to the

proper length. Leave the trucks off for now, and save

the screws somewhere.

15) Using the same adhesive from step 7), apply a bead to the bottom of the bulkheads.

Place the underframe on, and secure with 2-56 thread cutting screws. Be careful not to over-

tighten, as it could cause stress on the draft gear if too tight.

16) Using a #65 drill bit, carefully drill out the clevises on the brake gear (the white parts). Mark one end of the car as the B end (in this

photo, it is the left end of the car), and glue the brake gear on with CA. Also glue the mounting pads for the brake cylinder, ABD valve, and

reservoir.

17) Using .025" wire, make the connecting rods for the brake gear. Glue in place with CA.

If you choose to model the airlines between the cylinder, ABD valve, and reservoir, do it at this time.

Drill out the holes for the towing staples with a 1/16" bit. Secure the towing staple with CA. There are a total of four (4). Also drill out the

holes for the stirrup steps with a 1/16" bit, and secure them with CA.

Glue the trainline to the end of the car (you may have to trim it to length).

DEFECT CARD --> TOWING STAPLE -->

TRAINLINE -->

<-- ABD valve

<-- CYLINDER

<-- RESERVOIR

18) Drill a #65 hole to receive the center pin for the ladder

assembly. Use CA to glue the ladders in place.

Glue on the tack boards with CA.

Fold the photo-etched end steps along the score line. Take care

with this step, as the photoetch will not tolerate being bent

multiple times before it will break. Mark the end step brackets,

and drill four (4) #65 holes. Using the end step as a guide, drill

#65 holes into the car body. Secure the end steps with the supplied

brass rivets (with a dab of CA).

Drill a 1/16" hole in the brakewheel housing, and secure the brake

wheel with a dab of CA.

Drill a #65 hole in the bottom of the brakewheel housing, and

using .025" wire to fashion an eyelet, attach the brake chain.

Attach the brake fulcrum to the underframe, and carefully measure

the chain. When you're satisfied with the chain length, attach the

brake wheel housing assembly to the car body.

Thread the chain through the opening in the end walk, and secure

the loose end to the brake fulcrum with a small dab of CA.

#65 hole -->

19) Affix the above components to the sticky side of a piece of masking

tape. Paint them Camo Brown, and lay them aside for final assembly.

Also paint the underframe Camo brown at this stage.

When the underframe is dry, turn the car over, and paint the body it's

final color.

When dry, attach the truck mount (from step 14) with 2-56 thread

cutting screws (each truck requires four (4) screws. The couplers are

installed in this step. Take care that the king pin is in the center of the

bolster (they can be installed backwards, if you're not careful).

Use CA to glue the components (painted separately) to the bottom of

the center sill.

Painting

20) Locate the black washers shown here, and insert the screw you cut in step 14. Set the trucks on the

king pin, and carefully screw them to the underframe. There screw should be tight enough to allow the

trucks to turn freely. Be careful not to over-tighten.

Install the rubber air hoses and glad hand hands.

Custom Decals

General Instruction sheet

These decals were printed with an ALPS “micro-dry” printer. ALPS ink is waxed based, thus having low abrasion resistance while still on the sheet. Avoid

touching the printed area with hard or sharp objects (such as tweezers or the point of a hobby knife) as the ink can be scratched off.

I recommend leaving a small margin around the decals when trimming them from the sheet. This will give you enough room to pick them up with tweezers

without touching the ink.

A glossy (or semi-gloss finish) is a must for proper application. A dead flat surface will result in a “silvery” sheen on the decal.

To apply the decals, soak them in water for 15-30 seconds and then slide them into the desired position. Distilled water is preferred. A wet, soft-bristled brush

is an excellent tool to position them with.

The glue on the sheet is only to hold the decal on the carrier paper - it will not hold the decal in its final position. You will need a decal setting solution to bind

the decal to the model. I recommend Champ’s Decal Set. Get the decal where you want it, blot out as much water as

possible, apply the decal set and let it do it’s thing (don’t touch it again till its almost dry).

Once applied, let the decals dry for at least 24 hours before clear-coating. A clear overcoat (gloss or flat both work fine) will seal and protect the applied decal.

If done correctly, the clear film will disappear.