Aeronaut Bellissima User manual

We recommend our aero-pick
modelling pins, Order No. 7855/02, for
use while you are building the boat.
Introduction:
The model should be assembled
following the sequence of the
stages of construction described in
these instructions. The laser-cut
components are individually
numbered. The manufacturing
method leaves small tabs on some
parts which have to be cut away
using a thin-bladed modelling knife.
The dark edges of the laser-cut
parts should also be rubbed off
using abrasive paper in order to
obtain sound glued joints. Check
that all components fit accurately,
and carry out any minor trimming
required before reaching for the
glue.Allow all glued joints to dry out
fullybeforestartingthenextstageof
construction. We recommend a
fast-setting waterproof white glue;
please take care to prevent
adhesiverunningontotheuntreated
mahogany parts and any external
surfaces which will be visible on the
finishedmodel,asthegluewillshow
up through the final painted finish.
We recommend that you apply a
coat of sanding sealer (Order No.
7666/02) to the mahogany
components before gluing them.
The whole of the boat - inside and
out - must be given several coats of
clear water-resistant boat lacquer
before the model is placed in the
water, as this waterproofs the wood
and the glued joints. If you have to
glue parts to areas which have
already been lacquered, use two-
packadhesiveforthosejoints.
Each of the cabin sides 23 features
two portholes, but only one of them
isshowninthedrawings.
Order No. 3012/00
RC functions: Rudder,Sail position
Specification:
Length approx. 1200 mm
Beam approx. 280 mm
Mast height approx. 1370 mm
Displacement approx. 4700 g
Mainsail approx. 29.1 dm²
Jib approx. 14.8 dm²
Essential accessories:
Standard servo, rudder approx. 3 kg
Standard servo, sails approx. 8 kg
or sailwinch
Battery approx. 1000 mAh
Keel ballast Order No. 3012/10
Bellissima
This model is not a child's toy.
Adult supervision is required for
young persons under fourteen
years.

Insert the hull frames 4 - 11 in the slots in the jig
0. Chamfer the front end of the keel 12 (from the
red line) on both sides to form a sharp central
edge before fitting it into the frames. All the
parts feature tabs and slots which automatically
define their positions.
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
0
12
1
2
3
12
14
13
Set the keel fin exactly upright, and
hold it in that position with paper
masking tape as shown in the
drawing. Now glue the corner joints
between the frames and the keel.
Insert the frames 2 and 3 in the jig, add the rear keel section
14 and glue the joints. Glue the frame 1 and the connecting
piece 13 to the structure.
13
14
Glue the front and rear hull
sections together using the
connecting piece 13.
1
2
3
4

18
18
The mahogany face of the hull sides 18 should initially be sealed using sanding sealer; allow it
to dry thoroughly for about twelve hours. Bevel the light-coloured inside face of the hull sides 18
at the front end (arrow) using the abrasive paper supplied, so that a sharp edge is formed at the
bow when the parts are glued to the keel 12. Caution: take care to produce a handed pair of
sides (different right and left).
Tape the hull sides 18 together at the front using paper masking tape, with the bevelled light-coloured faces
down, then place both hull sides on the hull, starting at the bow (front). Check that the hull sides are pushed
right down to the bottom of the notches in the frames.
Apply a drop of glue to the top of the hull sides where they meet each frame, and apply tape as shown to
press the sides against all the frames.
18.1
Glue the reinforcements 18.1 to the inside of the hull sides
18; these parts must project at the top by about 1.5 mm to
act as locating pieces for the hull bottom panels 19.
18
5
6
7

19
18
11
Glue the hull sides 18 and bottom panels 19 to the
hull frames and the keel, working from the inside
of the hull.
Allow the glue to set hard, then sand back the
projecting edge of the hull sides 18 flush with the
bottom panels 19.
19
18
10
Sand the inside edge of the hull bottom panels
19 at an angle where they meet the keel 12, so
that there are no gaps. Caution: take care to
produce a handed pair (different left and right).
Do not apply glue at this stage. Lay one bottom
panel 19 on the hull and clamp it to the keel
using spring clamps. The hull side 18 is
higher from frame 1 to frame 10; the
hull sides 18 are sanded back flush
with the bottom
panels 19 at a later
stage.
Remove the clamps, Lay the second
hull bottom panel in place, and secure it
using modelling pins and masking tape
as shown in the drawing.
Pull parts 18 and 19 together and hold them
in place using paper masking tape. At the
front end the bottom panel 19 should be
secured using modelling pins (aero-Pick).
Now glue just the front point of the bottom
panel 19 to the structure, and leave the glue
to set hard.
8
9
10
11
1
11

At this stage the boatstand should be assembled by
gluing parts 20, 21, 22 and 22.1 together. The hull should
now be placed in the stand and left there for all further
construction work.
Carefully break away the
superfluous support tabs from
the keel 12 and frames 1 to
11, then sand the broken
edges smooth.
15
Glue the spruce stringers 15 to the inside
of the hull on both sides.
Apply three coats of sanding sealer to all
the internal hull components, then paint
the inside once with waterproof boat
lacquer, to ensure that the inside of the
hull is completely waterproof. The top
edges of the hull, to which the deck will
be glued, should not be painted.
12
13
14
15
21
20
22
22
22.1
22.1

Glue the deck support 24 to
hull frames 8 - 11 and the
keel 12.
24
27
27
23
23
Now fit the two cabin side walls 23 in the
slots in the hull frames, aligning the
marked points with frames 2 and 8.
Glue the side walls to the frames at the
corners.
Glue the rear deck support reinforcements 27 to part
14.
14
16
17
18

Glue the stringers 25 in the notches
in the hull frames 1 - 11 and the
deck support 24. 25
25
Glue the transom 29 to the rear
face of frame 1; it must overlap
the hull sides 18.
24
29 18
24
19
20

28
28
26
26
30
34
Glue the rear cockpit wall 34 to frame
2 with its bottom edge flush with the
opening in the frame.
Glue the shroud supports 28 in
place on both sides of the hull.
Note the correct orientation
(arrow).
Glue the lateral
supports 26 in
place at the
stern.
33
33.1
Lay the deck component
30 on the bench with the
top face down. Apply
paper masking tape to it
as shown, with half the
tape's width projecting.
Turn the deck over, so that the tape is
on the underside and the top surface
of the deck faces up.
Press the trim rails 33 and
33.1 onto the masking tape.
2
21
22 23
24
25
26

31
32
36
36
Glue the forward boat deck 31 to the
deck 30 at the front (bow), and the after
boat deck 32 at the rear (stern). Stick the
fabric tape 36 to the underside of the
decks, overlapping parts 30, 31 and 32,
to bridge and reinforce the joints. Leave
the glue to set hard, then turn the
completed deck over.
Seal the underside of the deck
assembly with sanding sealer
before gluing it to the hull. Fix the
deck in place with paper masking
tape until the glue has set hard.
Glue the front cabin wall 35 in place
as shown.
35
30
27
28
29

37
39
38
38
Install the cockpit sides 38 in the hull and slide
them towards the stern as far as they will go;
they should end flush at the top, and engage in
the opening in frame 2 at the bottom. Fit the
cockpit floor 37, push it right down and screw it
to parts 16 + 17 at the front. You will find marks
on the cabin sides 23 which indicate the level of
the top of the cockpit sides 38.
Fit the rear cockpit panel 39, set it
vertical, and glue it in place.
Glue together the supports from parts 16
+ 17, and glue these assemblies in the
notches in frames 5 and 6.
16
17
23
59
60
60
59.1
Glue the doubler 60 to one side of the
rudder 59. Glue the rudder shaft 59.1 in the
slot with two-pack adhesive, then glue the
second doubler 60 on top. Sand the rudder
to a tear-drop section, as shown in the
right-hand drawing.
30
31 32
33

40
40.1
40.2
43
44
41
42 42
43
41 44 40
40.2 40.2
43
44
42 42
44
41
41
43
45
Glue the louvre panels 40.2 to the door
blanks 40.1.
Glue the door frame
components 41 - 44 to
the cabin wall 40.
Glue the louvre panels in
place; they should lie
recessed in the door
frames by about 0.5 mm.
Press the cockpit sides 38
outwards using the spacer
strip 45, and glue the cabin
wall 40 to the cockpit floor
37 and the cockpit sides 38.
There are reference marks
on the cabin sides 23 which
indicate the position of the
cabin wall 40.
Caution: do not glue the
cabin wall to the cabin sides
23.
40
38 23
23
37
34 35
36
37

48
49
49
50
To ensure that the roof frame retains the correct
shape, it should be fitted on the model while the
glue is drying. To prevent it becoming stuck to the
structure, apply narrow strips of adhesive tape
over the glued joints before sliding it into place;
this effectively ensures that the frame can be
removed again later.
Tape can also be applied at any other point where
there is a danger of parts becoming glued to the
structure; this also makes it easier to remove the
completed assemblies again later. It is important to
apply sufficient glue, but not an excessive amount.
46
46 47
46
46
Glue the knees 46 and the bench seat
47 in the cockpit. Glue parts 76 and 77
in place to form the cockpit edge rails.
The frame for the detachable roof is
assembled from parts 48, 49 and 50.
38
39
40
76 77

57
52
56
54
55
When the glued joints of the roof
frame have set hard, the cabin roof
51 can be prepared and fitted.
There is a danger that the panel will
spit along the engraved lines, but this
can be avoided by lightly moistening
the top face beforehand. Alternatively
low-tack paper masking tape can be
applied across the width of the roof.
When subsequently removing the
tape, peel it off slowly, following the
grain to avoid tearing the wood. Now
position the cabin roof as shown, and
check carefully that there are no
gaps along the joints. Glue the roof in
place, securing it with masking tape
stretched from one side of the hull
over the top and down the other side.
Glue the hatch rails 56 to the cabin roof in the
positions indicated by the engraved lines. The rails
should be bevelled slightly on the underside as
shown by the arrow, so that they follow the camber
of the roof. The simplest method of gluing the rails
in place is to remove the roof and frame from the
cabin, as this makes it easier to secure the rails
while the glue is hardening.
Glue the four hatch sides 52, 53 and 54 to the roof,
followed by the hatch cover 55.
51
53
Assemble the two parts
of the mast tabernacle
57 and glue it to the
deck as shown.
41
42
43

62
63
62
Glue the rudder bush 62 in the hull
using two-pack adhesive; it should
project out of the bottom of the hull by 3
mm.
Engage the end of the servo plate 63 in
the slot in frame 8, and fix it to parts 16
and 17 using the screw 64.
Slip the rudder 59 / 60 into the
rudder bush 62 from the
underside, and screw the steering
lever 61 on the shaft 58. Thread
the 'snake' outer sleeve 65
through frames 4 and 5 and glue it
in place. Slip the steel pushrod 67
into the inner sleeve 66, then fit
both parts in the outer sleeve 65.
Screw the clevis 68 to the inner
sleeve 66 at the steering lever
(rudder) end (61). Screw the
threaded coupler 69 about half-
way into the clevis 68, and
connect the clevis to the servo
output arm. Cut the inner sleeve
66 to the correct length before
gluing it in the threaded coupler
69 using two-pack adhesive.
64
8
63
61
65
66
67
68
68 69
70
5
4
44
45
46

Drill 1.5 mm Ø holes in the deck for parts 73 and 74
at the marked points. Screw the cleats 73, the ring-
screws 74 and the tiller 71 in place.
Drill an angled 3 mm Ø hole for the brass tube 75;
the tube must project from the deck surface by 5
mm.
73+73
75
74
74
74
73
71
73+73
73+73
74
47
2
75

20 mm
127 mm130 mm
380mm
20mm350mm
400mm
107mm
58
78
78
79
79
80 81
74
74
74
74
74
74
72
72
81
81
81
Glue the tongue 79 in the square-section mast base 78 with the edges
flush. Glue the mast clamps 58 together, then glue them to the mast
base, leaving a 20 mm shoulder as shown.
58
Drill 4 mm Ø holes for the pins 80 right
through the mast base 78, taking care to drill
exactly at 90°. Push the two pins through
the holes and glue the second mast clamp in
place. Glue the mast 81 to the mast base,
keeping the edges flush with the tongue 79.
Tapering the top end of the mast to a diameter of 7
to 8 mm improves its appearance considerably.
The 1.5 mm Ø holes for the ring-screws 74 can
now be drilled in the mast 81, the boom 82 and the
jib boom 83. Drill 1.8 mm Ø pilot-holes in the
bottom part of the mast at the 88 mm point; this
ring-screw is just pushed into the hole later. Some
of the ring-screws have to be shortened to avoid
them projecting out of the other side of the boom.
Drill 2 mm Ø pilot-holes in the boom 82 for the
wooden cleat 72. Round off the pins of the cleats
72 and glue them in the boom and the mast clamp.
83
82
5
m
m
5
6
5
m
m
0
5
74
74
74
m
m
0
2
74
74
m
m
0
7
m
m
0
4
3
74
74
48
49
50

87
74
86
85
85
84
m
m
0
7
L
1) Forestay L = 980 mm
2) Backstay L = 1500 mm
3) Starboard shroud L = 1020 mm
4) Port shroud L = 1020 mm
2)
1)
1)
3)
4)
2)
1)
3)
4)
The mast is held upright on
the boat by the tension in the
stays and shrouds, which are
made up as shown in the
drawing above; the correct
lengths are stated in the
table. Remove the ring-
screws 74 at the top of the
mast before preparing these
parts.
Insert the mast in the mast
base on the deck. Screw the
ring-screws 74 (with the stays
and shrouds attached) into
the mast once more, and
connect the hooks 86 to the
ring-screws on the deck and
in the jib boom 83. Connect
the jib boom to the ring-screw
on the deck using a swivel
86.1. This is accomplished by
opening up the ring-screws,
slipping the swivel loops onto
them, and bending the screws
closed again. Place all the
rigging under tension by
adjusting the sliding
tensioners 84.
83
83
Fix the ballast keel 104
to the keel fin using the
M3 screw 89 and the
self-locking nut 90.
Secure the joint using
5-minute epoxy.
51
52
104
86.1)

82
86
89
90
81
81
82
74
Fit the hook 86 on the ring-screw 74, and screw the ring-screw into
the end of the main boom 82. Now attach the boom 82 to the mast
81 by passing the screw 89 through the ring-screws 74. Fit the self-
locking nut 90 at the bottom to secure the screw 89.
Glue the portholes 100 and 101 in the cabin sides,
followed by the glazing panels 102, which are fitted on
the inside.
53
54
100 101

200mm
125mm
125mm
125mm
91
92
93
94
94
94
94
94
94
94
94
95
95
95
95
The sails are supplied
attached to a sheet of
paper to avoid
transport damage.
The sails have to be
reinforced locally by
the addition of self-
adhesive stiffeners
made of sail fabric.
Stick the tape 93 to
the leading edge of
the jib 92, and the
tabling (corner
reinforcement) 94 at
bottom right. The
backing paper can
now be removed, and
a second set of
stiffeners attached to
the rear face. Heat
the steel rod 100 and
push it through the
strips 93 to continue
the holes right
through.
The reinforcements 94 and stiffeners 95
can now be applied to the mainsail 91.
Remove the backing paper and stick
the matching pieces on the rear face,
taking care to line them up neatly.
The projecting ends of the stiffeners
should now be removed at the edges of
the jib and mainsail using a pair of
scissors.
55
56

96
Attach the hooks 92 to both bottom corners of the jib: temporarily open up the
small closed loops using a pair of pliers, fit them through the holes in the sail,
then close them again with the pliers. The open part of the hook can now be
connected to the ring-screw in the jib boom.
With the jib attached to the jib boom, tie a hook to the jib halyard 96 and
connect the halyard to the top of the jib. The halyard is then looped through the
ring-screw 74 at the top of the mast, and belayed (secured) to the cleat at the
bottom.
Tie the snap-rings 97 to the jib using thread, and engage them on the forestay.
The jib is controlled using the jib sheet 88 (green), which is fixed to a snap-ring
97 and routed into the inside of the hull through the tube 75. The length of the
sheet should be 65 cm.
74
57
96
88
86
92
97
97
75
86
86.1
86
92