Calandra Racing Concepts WTF1 User manual

Assembly Manual
1/10th Formula 1 Car

3254 - 2-56 Button Head
40194 - Hard Anodized
Alum Pivot ball
12772 -
4-40 Thin
Hex Nut
1430 -
4-40 x ½”
Flat Head
1209 - Washer
*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the top clamp screws,
then work the ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball
floats around very free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you
could warp the pivot socket.
slightly
1412 - Red Locknut
Bag 1
Center Pivot
1
3374 - Center Pivot Socket
Bag 1
Center Pivot
1555 - WTF-1
Chassis Plate
3374
1555

1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head 1430 - 4-40 x ½”
Flat Head One-Piece
Side Links
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
*NOTE - Before installing, inspect the side links
and you will notice that the screw holes on one
side of the link are larger than the holes on the
other side. Before popping the links on the balls,
be sure that the larger hole faces toward the
outside of the chassis.
Slide the 2-56 button head screws through the
large holes in the outside of the side links, and
then thread them into the small inner holes as
shown in the illustration. Do not tighten these
screws down all the way. Put just enough
tension on them so that there is no play in the
links, but so they pivot freely on the balls. The
car will NOT handle properly if the links are too
tight on the balls!
1 - Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.
There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot
“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links
to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links
and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the WTF-1.
2 - Snap the 2 links on the balls (done in previous step). They should rock freely on
the pivot balls.
3 - Place the chassis / rear bottom plate assembly on a flat surface. No tires and
no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be
sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a
straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the
car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any
tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.
4 - Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing
the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that
secure the center pivot assembly. For now, just lightly
snug one side then the other.
5 - Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of
rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-
side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".
If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.
If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the center pivot more
securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the
hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the center pivot
assembly to the chassis. The handling of the WTF-1 hinges (pun intended!) on the
free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.
(not the rear pod)
Setting the One-piece links
2
3254 - 2-56 Button Head 3281 -
1412 - Red Locknut
Bag 2
1566 - Rear Bottom Plate
1566
Rotate
Center Pivot
H
3281

3440 - Motor Plate
1574 - Graphite X-brace
3
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
3442 - Left Side Pod Plate
Bag 3
Slider Pod
33411 - Slider Bearing Carrier
1574
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
Bag 4
Tweak Plate
1570 - Tweak Plate
1570
1435 - 4-40 x 7/16”
Button Head
33411
3288 - 4-40 x 3/8”
set screw 3387 - Molded Plastic
Spring Holder
Thread the set screw
in until flush with the
bottom of the holder.
1791 - Pro Tapered
Springs .45mm 3375 - Molded ½”
Standoffs (4)
3375
Make sure spring coil
is seated into groove
on spring holder.
3375
3375 - Molded ½”
Standoffs (4)
1426
1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head
1424
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
1436
1434
1791
3387
The rear wing (not included) will mount to the
3375 plastic standoffs on the rear pod.
3440
3442

4
Bag 4
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
1565 - WTF-1
Rear Top Plate
1565
Top Plate
1407 - Anodized Hex Balls (4)
1384 - 2-56 Steel Ballstuds & Cups
for Damper tubes (4)
1384
1407
1397 - 2-56 set-
screw stud
1384 - 2-56 Steel Ballstud
& Plastic Ball Cup 32694 - Short 4-40 Plastic
Ball Cup (on tree) 13695 - .035”
Allen Driver
32693 - Delrin Plunger 32691 - Aluminum Tube
.125 "
Step 1 - 2-56 stud and thin cup
Step 2 - 4-40 stud and hex cup
Step 3 - 2-56 stud
into Delrin Plunger
Step 4 - 4-40 stud into
Aluminum Tube
.188 "
1288 - 4-40 x 5/16”
set screw
CRC
Tube
Lube
Step 5 - Add CRC Tube Lube to
each slot on the delrin plunger.
*** : fill only the slots, not the
entire aluminum tube. ***
Note
Bag 5
Damper Tubes
4505
4510
4520
4530

5
1854 - Top Deck -
Gen-X10 SE
Bag 6
Top Deck 1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
3373 - Plastic Battery Position Pieces
1537 - Hex Standoff -
WTF-1 Top Deck
1854
1537 3378
3373
1407
1407 - Anodized Hex Balls (4)
3378 - Body Posts
w/ collars (1 in.)
** Adding the Damper Tubes to the Chassis assembly **
Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the
respective points as shown in the diagram to the right. You
will find it easier to snap on the smaller 2-56 ball studs first,
then pop the lower, larger 4-40 ballcups on.
Bag 5
Damper Tubes
continued...
The 3378 1” Body Post pictured in this assembly is used as an
antenna mounting post. Most all antenna wires will actually
thread through the holes for the body clips and then stay there
on its own. If not, you can also wrap the wire around the outside
of the post similarly to how you would with a rollover antenna on
a 12th scale car. Then hold the wrapped wire in place with any
number of things such as a rubber band, zip-tie, an o-ring, heat
shrink tubing, etc.
Top Deck Orientation - If you were to draw a line
straight across the top deck between the two
mounting holes, then there would be three of the
five countersunk screw holes on one side of the
line, and two on the other. The three holes
should go toward the front of the car.

6
2.510”
1 - Thread the spring adjuster nut onto the shock body as shown. *This needs to be installed first or you will not be able to get it on later after the lower endof
the shock is assembled!*
2 - Insert only 1 of the small o-rings into the lower end of the shock body. Next, install the bottom shock plug and tighten the bottom shock cap.
3 - Insert 1 of the small e-clips into the lower groove of the shock shaft. Slide the piston over the shaft until it stops against the e-clip and then secure it in place
with the other e-clip in the end groove.
4 - Put a small dab of the included shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft to lube it and then slide the shock shaft through the bottom end of the shock
carefully so you do not damage the o-ring with the threads on the shock shaft. Pull the shaft all the way through until the piston bottoms out in the shock body.
5 - Wipe off any excess oil from the threads of the shock shaft and then thread on the shorter of the 2 included ballcups. *If you need to hold the shaft with pliers,
be sure to wrap a rag around the shaft first so the pliers do not damage the shaft. If there is any damage to the shaft, the sharp edges will damage the o-ring and
cause the shock to leak.
6 - Now with the shaft still fully extended, hold the shock body upright and fill with the included shock oil. Press the shaft in about half way and then return it to
full extension. Look inside the shock and you will notice small air bubbles in the oil. This is the rest of the air that was trapped below the piston. Allow enough
time for the air bubbles to work their way to the surface and pop.
7 - Once satisfied that all of the air is out of the shock, top off with oil and then insert the shock bladder by laying one side into the oil and then rolling your finger
across the top of the bladder to expel any excess air and/or oil.
8 - Insert the flanged ballcup into the upper shock cap and then tighten this down over the shock bladder, being careful to not knock the bladder off its seat and
allowing air to enter the shock. *Double check that the shock is working smoothly through its range of motion and that you can fully compress the shock. Ifit
binds up before being fully compressed, then it has too much oil and you will need to crack the top cap loose and expel a very small amount of oil and re-tighten.
9 - Slide the shock spring over the shock body and keep in place by clicking the spring retainer over the shock shaft and sliding it down over the short ballcup to
keep it in place.
Next, slide the other small o-ring over the shock shaft and up against the piston. This o-ring acts as a travel limiter.
1
5
2.1
2.3
2.2
4
3.1
3.2
7
(Lower groove)
(End groove)
CRC Encore Shock
Bag 7
Center Shock
3290 -
8.1
8.2
9.2
9.1
3291 - Encore Shock-Body + alum parts
3292 - Encore Shock Shaft - Hardened
3293 - Encore Shock Plastic Parts
3294 - Encore Shock E-clips (10)
3295 - Encore Shock Rubber Parts
3296 - Encore Shaft Adapter, 4-40 ballcup
Encore Shock Parts List:
(Each assembly step below corresponds to the numbered boxes in the diagram. You
may run into issues if you try building the shock out of order.)

Front End
Lip
Bag F
33461
3221
7
1540
1546
1540 - Front End Plate - F1
1546 - F1 Lower Arm
Pivot Ball
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1412 - Red Locknut
3234 - Brass
Set Screw
3391 - .45mm
Front Spring
3228 - CRC King Pin -
Long 1:10
3221 - Steering Block Set
1535 - F1 Steel Stub Axle
1535
3391
3228
1382 -
E-Clip
Front End
Bag F
1490 - M3 x 8mm
Button Head
1482 - M3 x 8mm
Flat Head 1498 - M3 Locknut
1543 - F1 Upper / Lower
Plastic Arm Mounts
1547 - F1 Lower Arm
Ball Socket
1543
1543
33461 - Plastic Spacer
1/8 x .060”
1547

Front End -
continued...
1.192”
1553
8
1544
1544 - F1 Upper Arm /
Steering Block Ball
3221 - Steering Block Set
1582 - E-Clip for
Upper Hinge Pin
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
3221
Bag F
1499 - M4
Locknut
1496 - M4 x 30mm
Front End Screw
1496
3355 - Alum Vertical
Mount Set-Red
3355
1553 - Graphite Servo
Mount Plate-F1
(Servo Tape - Not Included)
1545 - F1 Upper
Hinge Pin
1545
3376 - Molded Servo
Saver Brace
3376
Front End -
continued...
Bag F
1542
1542 - F1 Upper Arms
1231
1317
1317 - 42mm Steering
Tie-Rod
1231 - Plastic Ball Cups
The front wing (not included) would slide in here
between the chassis and the plastic lower arm
mount. The further forward of the two front end
screws will pass through the front wing before
passing through the upper arm mount and into the
M4 locknut.
Servo Alignment - Assemble the servo
saver, servo saver brace, and ball studs
as shown in the diagram. Then when
using the two-sided servo tape to hold
the servo between the plates, line up the
servo case flush with the edge of the
graphite plates and this will give you just
the right amount of “tie-rod sweep”
(steering ackerman).
The mounting “ears” on the servo will
need to be trimmed off the bottom of the
servo case for the servo to sit flat on the
chassis.
1550 - Caster shims (10)
1550
If installing an Airtronics/Sanwa 94761 or
SRGHR, then no graphite plates or
aluminum mounts are needed. Bolt down
the servo to these two holes.

4201 - Diff Ring 1387 - 1/4” x 3/8”
Plain Bearing Lip
4121 - Diff Spacer 4123 -
Spring Washer
1-INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS
Place the spur gear flat on the table in front of you with the side that says “CRC” facing
down. The diff balls will fall into each of the outer ring of holes in the diff gear, but won’t
fall out the other side. Place a small dab of silicone diff grease on each ball to lube the
ball and prevent the balls from falling back out of the holes during assembly. Use very
little!
*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear axle pointing upright will ease assembly of
the diff.) Place 1 diff ring, and then a 1/4” x 3/8” plain bearing over the end of the axle.
Align the diff ring so that it notches into the axle flange. Place the assembled gear with
the greased diff balls over the axle and push it down over the plain bearing. Next, insert
the other plain bearing into the back of the diff hub. Then, align the second diff ring with
the notch on the back of the diff hub. *(place a small dab of the diff grease on the hub
first to hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide the hub, bearing, & diff ring down over the
axle. Next, slide a flanged bearing over the axle and into the front of the diff hub.
2-DIFF ASSEMBLY
1
** Balls in outer ring of holes in gear **
1386 - 1/4” x 3/8”
Flanged Bearing
DIFF ASSEMBLY -CONTINUED...
The diff spacer has a small machined lip on one
side, point that lip toward the bearing. Now,
place the spring washer so that the cone points
away from the gear. The outside of the washer
should be against the diff spacer, and the inside
of the washer should be against the diff nut,
which now goes on last. *Be sure the 2 “D” rings
have settled into their notches. Just snug the nut
so the parts stay together on the diff axle.
DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing
gets crushed! Correct diff tension needs to be
set with tires on the car.
1533
9
3 - Setting the Diff
First, you will want to mount a rear wheel (not included) to the left rear clamp hub using 1 of the M4
nuts contained in Bag 11. Until you are happy with the diff tension, you can just slip the right rear
wheel over the hex without mounting it. Now adjust the diff nut so that the tires spin back and forth
freely when holding the spur gear, but it is very difficult to slip the spur gear with your thumb when
holding both tires. Again - DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing gets crushed! Re-check
diff tension after the first run.
Bag 8
Differential Axle
Bag 9
Differential
4720 - Axle Spacer-
Xti-2 + 5mm
64172
64180
64188
64196
1528 - Graphite Axle
w/ 4mm Stud
1533 - Left Clamp Hub
1525 - Diff Hub
1228 - 3/32 Diff Balls
1376 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Steel Socket Cap
1528
2mm
1499 - M4
Locknut
Small lip
toward bearing
1525
1228
1526
4 - Mount the Right side
Wheel
First, insert the 2-56 set screw
into the pin drive cap. You need to
thread this in first because it will
not fit through the hole in the diff
hub. Next, insert the cap into the
hub and lock in place with the
drive pin. Now slip the .035 allen
wrench through the hole in the
hub to lightly snug the set screw.
This doesn’t need to be tight. It is
just so it doesn’t get lost when
you take the wheel off. The wheel
actually holds the pin.
1527
1597
1527 - 2x14 Drive Pin
1597 - 2-56 x 1/8 Set Screw
1526 - F1 Pin Drive Cap

13783 - 4-40 x 1/8”
Set Screw
10
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
1378
Bag 10
Bag 11
1378 - Body Posts
w/ collars (2 in.)
3378 - Body Posts
w/ collars (1 in.)
1 piece of 3378 will mount to the front wing
(not included) once it is installed.
1499 - M4
Locknut
1529 - 5mm Plastic
Spacer - F1 Fr Axle
1532 - Thin #8 Washer -
F1 Rr Wheel
1549-5x10mm
Unflanged Bearing
4735 - 5mm
Shim
4735
1529
1532
The 2 pieces of 3/8” Button Head screws contained
in this bag are for mounting the rear wing to the
plastic standoff posts on the rear pod. Save these
for adding the rear wing of your choice.
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head