Catalina 310 User manual

CATALINA 310
OWNER'S
MANUAL
Revised 5/1100

FOREWORD
Congratulations on the acquisition of your new Catalina Yacht. All Catalina
yachts are designed and built with care using quality materials to assure you
years of sailing enjoyment with a minimum of upkeep and maintenance.
Before attempting maintenance or operation of your Catalina Yacht, please
read the Catalina Yachts Limited Warranty booklet and fill out the enclosed
warranty registration card.
The registration card enables Catalina to inform you of developments and
modifications to enhance the performance or comfort of your yacht. It is
also important to be able to contact owners to comply with Coast Guard
defect notification requirements.
The launching and rigging of your Catalina Yacht should be handled by
experienced boat yard personnel under the direction of your authorized
dealer.
The index page lists the contents of this manual. Warrantees and
information regarding installed optional equipment have been included when
available and applicable.
Maintaining your yacht properly can become a satisfying part of your sailing
activities. A regular inspection is the best preventive maintenance. It will
help keep your boat safe and in good condition while in use, and insure
peace of mind when the boat is left unattended.
Take good care of your boat and take the time to learn and practice good
seamanship.
1

PREFACE
This manual is intended and supplied to help owners of Catalina Yachts
understand their boats and answer common questions about maintenance and
systems design specific to their boat.
This manual is not intended to provide sailing instructions. It is assumed the
operator will consult books written for that purpose, or take sailing lessons
or courses to gain knowledge necessary for the safe operation of the vessel.
The systems descriptions and illustrations in this manual apply to boats built
at the time of publication. Our policy of constant improvement necessitates
that changes have been made to the boat since its introduction. Therefore,
these illustrations and descriptions may not apply to boats built before the
time of publication.
Owners of earlier hulls, who have questions not answered herein should
consult with their local Catalina dealer, or write to, or e-mail Catalina
Yachts. Please include your hull number in all correspondence.
The maintenance check lists contained within this manual are intended as
guidelines for boats in normal service under typical conditions.
Climate and use will vary and may require additional or special
maintenance. Consult with your local boat yard or Catalina dealer for
specific maintenance and precautions recommended for your purposes and
climate.
Caution: The aluminum and other metal parts conduct electricity. Coming
in contact with or near an electrical power line or lightening can cause
severe injury or death. Stay away from overhead electrical power lines
when sailing and or launching the boat.
2

TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
Forward
1
Preface
2
Table of Contents
3
Commissioning Check List
6
Maintenance Check List
10
Specifications
13
Sail Plan
14
Spar and Rigging Maintenance
15
Rigging Lengths
20
Deck Plan
21
Mainsheet Arrangement
22
Mainsheet Traveler
23
Boom Yang 24
Solid Yang and Purchase 25
Halyards Arrangement
26
Shroud Rigging
27
Mast Sub Assembly 28
Boom
30
Outhaul Assembly 31
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3

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Electrical 12 Volt DC 32
Electrical Plan, DC 35
Mast Light Wiring 37
Electrical, AC 1101115 Volt 38
AC Plan 40
115 VAC Wiring Diagram 41
230 VAC Wiring Diagram 42
Control Panel 230 VACI12 VDC 43
Plumbing 45
Plumbing Plan 48
.~
_/
Head Plumbing 49
Auxiliary Power 50
Packing Gland 55
Prop Shaft and Log Alignment Procedure 56
Shaft Alignment Illustration 57
25XP Harness to Seaward Helm Pod 58
Steering 59
Accommodation 60
4

Accommodations Plan 62
LPG Plan 63
Decommissioning 64
OwnerlUser Responsibility 67
Lightning Protection 70
Commissioning Package 79
Literature and warranties for equipment, which may be supplied 80
with this manual.
Equipment and Materials Log 81
5

COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST
This check list is intended as a guide to aid in the proper delivery and commissioning of a new boat to the
originator purchaser. It may also be useful to review this list each time the boat is recommissioned after
storage.
PRE-LAUNCH CHECK: (before stepping mast)
1. Shaft turns freely by hand, zinc collar installed if required.
2. Check intake hoses and clamps.
3. __ Check all through hull fittings.
4. Drain plugs tight, __ engine, muffler and exhaust line OK.
5. Bottom clean, paint OK.
6. Hull sides clean, gel coat OK.
7. Decks clean, gel coat OK.
8. Interior varnish OK.
9. Cushions, curtains, clean and in place.
10. Lifelines, pelican hooks and pulpits rigged and OK.
11. Spreaders taped at base end, upper shroud and intermediate wired to tip end and
taped or boots installed.
12. Rigging lengths verified with check list in kit.
13. Mast and boom inspected; cotter pins, sheaves, tangs, spreaders, reef lines, outhaul,
OK.
14. Mast lights checked before mast stepped
15. Check overhead for electrical wires which may interfere with the space
required to raise the mast to its full upright position. If there are wires
of any kind anywhere near the boat. Do not raise the mast. Move boat
to any other location away from any wires. Contact with wires can be
fatal.
16. Masthead sheaves lubricated and rotate freely.
ELECTRICAL:
1. Lights operational:
_Running _Cabin _Bow _Anchor _Deck Light
2. Pumps Operational: _Pressure Water _Macerator Pump _Bilge Pump
3. Shore power outlet OK.
6

4. __ Check battery switch #1_ #2_ OK.
5. Check battery fluid level.
6. Check battery terminal for tightness.
7. Check battery tie down straps.
PLUMBING AND INTERIOR:
1. No leaks at through hull fittings with seacocks open or closed.
2. Fill all water tanks.
3. Check all water tanks at fittings and vents for leaks.
4. Test all faucets and foot pumps for leaks.
5. Check for leaks at sink drain, sink drains OK.
6. Put water in ice box and check for proper drainage.
7. Check manual bilge pump operation, handle present.
8. Check head by flushing and pumping.
9. Check shower sump drain line.
IO. Check holding tank, pump vent and fitting.
11. Check head and pump handle for leaks.
12. Main hatch no leaks, slides freely, hatch boards fit OK.
13. Cabin windows hose tested for leaks.
14. Anchor locker drains OK, no Leaks.
15. Stove operates OK; check tank, fuel line, burner and oven.
RIGGING AND HARDWARE:
1. Mast stepped.
2. Pin, tape and tune standing rigging
3. Blocks, cars, cleats rigged OK.
4. Test all winches, winch handles present.
5. Boom vang supports boom
6. Check chainplates for leaks (*note 1)
7

ENGINE:
1. No leaks: Shaft, rudder, stuffing box, or shaft log.
2. Shaft, dimpled for set bolts at coupling; bolts wired and coupling secured.
3. With fuel tanks full, no leaks at fill pipes, overflow vent, or any fuel line
connections.
4. With coupling disconnected, engine and shaft alignment OK. Recheck
alignment OK. Recheck alignment after rigging tuned.
5. Transmission fluid level OK.
6. Engine oil level OK.
7. Check fresh water/coolant level OK.
8. Fuel valves open, bleed and prime lines for diesel engine.
9. Check that shaft is coupled and aligned to .003 maximum tolerance.
1O. Engine wire OK, connections tight.
11. Throttle control cable travel and brackets OK.
12. Clutch control cable travel and brackets OK.
13. Start engine.
14. Exhaust water flow OK.
15. No leaks in fuel lines at fittings, fuel filter, fuel pump or injectors.
16. No engine or oil leaks.
17. Idling speed set _ R.P.M.'S.
18. Check shutoff cable for diesel engine.
19. Check forward and reverse shifting.
20. Check engine instruments for operation, tachometer for calibration.
21. Run in gear for ten (10) minutes.
22. Recheck packing gland after engine stops.
23. Bilge blower and vent system OK.
24. Exhaust system, check for leaks, insulation in place.
*Note (1): It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few time as
some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This
movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage
to the interior wood and fmishes.
8

OPERATION CHECK LIST:
1. Emergency tiller trail fitted and operational.
2. Pedestal steering operation OK, compass OK.
3. Sails and halyard OK.
4. Boat sea trailed under power and sail OK.
FINAL CHECK:
1. All accessory equipment operates OK.
2. All boat, engine, and accessory literature, and/or manuals aboard or presented
to owner.
3. Warranty cards completed and mailed, owner registration card attached,
owner informed of warranty responsibilities.
4. Engine warranty card completed and mailed.
5. Owner familiarized with boat, equipment and operation.
Commissioned By: _ Date:
--------------
Sold and Delivered By: _ Date:
--------------
9

MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:
RIGGING:
1. Inspect turnbuckles, tighten as required, pinned as required.
2. Inspect clevis pins and cotter pins.
3. Visually inspect spreader tips and other areas where sails may chafe during sailing,
replace tape as necessary.
4. Halyards free and not tangled.
5. Inspect mast hardware attachment bolts, tighten as required.
HULL AND DECK INSPECTION:
1. Pedestal steering OK, rudder post packing gland not weeping.
2. Bilge and compartments are dry.
3. Through hull valves, hoses, and clamps OK.
4. Check running lights.
ENGINE:
1. Check engine oil and fuel levels.
2. Packing gland OK, cooling water intake valve opens and closes OK.
3. Throttle shift OK.
MONTHLY MAINTENANCE:
RIGGING:
1. Inspect chain plates, fastenings and bolts for leaks, replace sealant and tighten as
necessary. (1)
2. Inspect blocks, shackles, cotter pins.
3. Check rigging tune, rigging wire condition.
4. Check turnbuckles and locking pins.
NOTE (1): It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few time as
some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This
movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage
to the interior wood and finishes.
10

HULL AND DECK:
1. Inspect hull valves open and close freely.
2. Winches turn freely, lubricate as per manufacturer's recommendations.
3. Clean and wax gel coat surfaces as necessary.
ENGINE:
1. Check oil and fluid levels, visually check for fluid leaks.
2. Battery: Check fluid levels and tie downs.
3. Tighten all bolts and nuts to proper torque.
4. Check fuel tank fittings and hose clamps.
5. Disassemble and inspect cooling system anti-siphon
6. Check bolts.
7. Check filters.
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:
RIGGING:
1. Mast head pins and sheaves turn freely.
2. Halyards and shackles are in good condition. (Refer to Rigging, Stepping the Mast)
3. Spreader tips and bases, and mast fittings OK.
4. All shroud terminations and swedged fittings OK, check for cracks or corrosion.
5. Gooseneck assembly and boom assembly OK.
6. Mast, boom and spreaders cleaned and waxed.
7. Lifelines, pelican hooks, and stanchions all OK, all pins and fittings are secure, cotter
rings taped. Turnbuckles, pelican hooks and connector loops OK, screw fittings
checked for thread wear.
HULL, DECK and CABIN:
1. All chainplates and through bolts tight.
2. Disassemble winches and lubricate bearings and pawls.
3. Inspect and coat electrical system connections, battery tie downs and terminal
connectors to prevent corrosion.
4. Drain and flush fresh water system.
11

5. Check head and anti-siphon valve in toilet.
6. Hatch gaskets and hold down fasteners OK.
7. Bottom, keel and rudder condition of anti-fouling paint OK.
8. Lifelines, stanchions and pelican hooks OK.
ENGINE:
1. Check shaft alignment, repack stuffing box if necessary.
2. Clean motor thoroughly.
3. Inspect fuel system.
4. Tune engine as per manufacturer's recommendations.
5. Exhaust system check for leaks, or deterioration, insulation in place.
12

I.
PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS
CATALINA 310 SPECIFICATIONS
L.O.A.
L.W.L.
Beam
Draft Fin Keel
Ballast Fin Keel
Displacement Fin Keel
Distance-Waterline to Masthead
Headroom-Maximum
II. COMPARATIVE DATA
31' -0" (9.49m)
26' -6" (8.08m)
11' -6" (3.5IJIl]
5'9" (1.75M)
4000 lbs, (l8l4kg)
10300 lbs. (4672kg)
46' -9" (1 4.3m)
WiItgKeel
Wing Keel
Wing Keel
/ 1/
t/ /0
42-0"" (1.22m) v"
44001bs. (1996kg)
10700 lbs. (4854kg)
6'2" (l88cm)
Displacement/Length Fin Keel: 332.26
Sail AreaIDisplacement Fin Keel: .0476
Wing Keel: 345.16 V
Wing Keel: .0458
Theoretical Hull Speed 6.7 Knots
III. SAILS Weight
(oz. per sq. yd.)
Main
Jib
Genoa, 150%
Spinnaker, cruising
135% Jib
8.00z
8.0oz.
6.0 oz.
71.5 oz.
7.0 oz.
Total w/IOO% Foretriangle
IV. TANKAGE and CAPACITIES
Water
Holding
Fuel
Ice Box
Berths
Common Ratings (approx.)
v. ENGINE and CONTROLS
Engine
Fuel Consumption (estimate)
Propeller
Pedestal Steering
Compass
I=42' -9" (13.Orn)
J=l1' -9" (3.6m)
P=3T -3" (11.4m)
E=13' -0" (4.Orn)
Area
490sq. ft. (45.52 sq. M)
Forward: 35 gal (208 liters), Water Heater 20 gal (23 liters)
"Total = 55 gal(189 liters)
17 gal (64.3 liters)
27 gal (102.1 liters)
6 cu. ft. (.17 cu. M)
2 Doubles
PHRF = 180
MORF=28.4
IOR= 23.0
Universal MOde1(25XP Diesel. 23hp 3 cyl., 57 c.i,ftesh water-cooled
.55 g.p.h. (2 liters) at Cruising r.p.m.
2 Blade" l3x12, 3 Blade: 13xlO
Edson w132" (81 ern) dia. Destroyer Wheel
Ritchie NDW200
13

E: 13'- 0"
J:11'- 9"
•
14

SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE:
STANDING RIGGING:
Your boat is equipped with stainless steel standing rigging, and Dacron running rigging, to give
you years of trouble-free service. However, due to normal wear and tear, it is recommended that
a periodic inspection be made on all fittings and wires. Turnbuckles should never be neglected
and should be unscrewed from time to time in order that they do not seize. Every three months
should be about right for the average sailor. A slightly bent turnbuckle shaft or broken wire in
your shrouds should be replaced immediately.
Under most conditions, 1 X 19 standing rigging has a safe "working" life span of approximately
five years: seven years under ideal conditions. Factors which reduce the life of the wire are
environmental factors such as high humidity (Florida, the Caribbean, and Gulf States); high
salinity (Great Lakes, Gulf States, or mooring near a sea wall with constant salt spray); extremes
in temperature; and industrial pollution (pulp mills, generating plants, acid rains, and smog).
High loading of the rigging as required in most racing boats also induces stress in the rigging
system. Many of us have to deal with at least one of these conditions and should consider
replacing standing rigging at the five year limit.
Unlike running rigging wire rope, which gives us clear signs that it is deteriorating by broken
strands and "meat hooks", standing rigging may give no sign that failure is imminent. The usual
point of failure of stay or shroud is approximately W' inside the bottom swedged threaded stud
fitting which threads into the turnbuckle barrel.
Although the stud is compressed around the wire during the swedging process, salt water and
pollutants work down into the tine cavities between the wire strands and the inevitable corrosive
process starts in the crevice first time the rigging becomes wet with salt water.
A common method of visually monitoring swedge fitting conditions, employed by distance racers
and cruisers, is to dab a small ring of enamel paint around the joint between the wire and the
swedge fitting. This will help provide a means to see if the wire is pulling out of the fitting.
Another technique used to check the condition of swedge fittings is a "dye penetrant" test. This
simple test will detect any cracks which may develop in the fittings due to internal pressure from
the corrosive process. Inexpensive dye tests kits usually are available from most welding supply
stores. Dye tests usually are not required by weekend sailors, but may be done before an extended
cruise or ocean passage if any doubt about the integrity of the rigging exists.
All stainless steel wire rope rigging will develop some rust film when new. This is normal.
The rust is caused by two factors. When wire rope is manufactured, the wire strands are fed over
steel rollers during the process of twisting or laying the wire. Trace amounts of the ferrous steel
from the rollers and dyes are transferred to the wire strands. As this small amount of steel rusts
it causes a film on the new wire.
The second cause of the rust film on new wire is the microscopic veins of ferrous material which
exist in all stainless steel. After a period of time, as the surface material veins are depleted, and
the stainless steel has been cleaned several times, new rust film development will slow to a
minimum.
For the average sailor, the best insurance against a rigging failure is a periodic (every six months
is recommended) inspection of all rigging parts, including turnbuckles, and replacement of
standing rigging as required.
15

IMPORTANT: Ifill Y wear or sign of broken strands is found on the running or standing
rigging, it is time to replace that part. Using your boat when the rigging
is worn could cause the rigging to fail when you least expect it.
FITTINGS:
Marine fittings today need minimal maintenance. Deck hardware should be hosed down with
freshwater after each sail in salt water. Stainless steel fittings such as pulpits and lifeline
stanchions should be cleaned and waxed periodically to maintain their appearance. Winches
require occasional cleaning and lubrication. Where possible, a maintenance brochure for your
winches has been included in this manual. Masthead fittings, halyard sheaves, etc., should be
inspected, cleaned and lubricated periodically. Keep your equipment clean of dirt and salt.
SPARS:
Like all other fittings, the mast and boom suffer from salt water, air and spray. These should be
kept waxed where possible, and at least always hosed down with fresh water. Always see that the
halyards are tied off away from the mast. This will eliminate slapping in the wind, and
subsequent marking of the mast. Find a high pressure nozzle and shoot fresh water to the top of
the mast and spreaders. This will help keep your sails clean, too, as they rub on the mast and
spreaders.
SAIL MAINTENACE:
Your sails should be protected from chafmg. This can be done by either padding the areas that
touch the sail or by having your sailmaker attach chafe patches to the sails themselves.
You should check your sails frequently for any signs of wear and have any tears or frayed stitches
repaired immediately.
Sails should never be stored in the sun because they are susceptible to decay through exposure to
too much ultraviolet light. Always keep your sails covered when they are not is use.
Sails should never be put away wet. If they are wet after sailing, leave them in loose bundles and
dry them at your first opportunity.
For most problems, such as common dirt, dried or caked salt, etc., try scrubbing the surface with
a soft bristled brush and liquid detergent. Avoid harsh powder detergents and stiff brushes, as
they may damage the finish or stitching. This approach should work nicely for most
applications. More severe stains can be taken care of by the following:
BLOOD: IMPORTANT: FOR WHITE SAILS ONLY Soak the stained portion for 10 to 20 minutes in a solution of bleach (Clorox)
and warm water. Generally 10 parts water to 1 part bleach. Scrub and repeat
if necessary. Rinse thoroughly, particularly nylon, and dry thoroughly.
OIL. GREASE TAR. WAX: Warm water, soap and elbow grease seem to be effective. On hard
stains, proprietary stain remover and dry cleaning fluids should do the trick.
Be careful to remove all fluids, as they can soften the various resinated coatings.
RUST AND MET ALLIC STAINS: These types of stains are very often the most frustrating and
difficult to remove. First scrub with soap and water, and apply acetone,
M.E.K., or alcohol. As a last resort, you might try a diluted mixture (5%) of
Oxalic soaked for 10 to 15 minutes. Hydrochloric Acid, 2 parts to 100 in
warm water, will also work.
16

MILDEW: Hot soapy water with a little bleach will generally prevail. After scrubbing,
leave the solution on the fabric for a few minutes and rinse thoroughly. When
using a bleach, a residual chlorine smell may be present after rinsing. A 1 %
solution of Thiosulphate (photographers' Hypo) should remove all chlorine
traces. Here again, rinse and dry well.
PAINT AND VARNISH: Acetone and M.E.K. should remove most common paint stains.
Varnish can be easily removed with alcohol. Generally speaking, use all
solvents with care. Always rinse and dry thoroughly. It should be
emphasized that nylon ripstop spinnaker fabrics are less durable and more
sensitive than their polyester counterparts. Bleaches and solvents can ruin
nylon ifnot used properly.
Follow the above guidelines, take your sails into your sailmaker for periodic inspection, and you
will have many effective seasons of racing and cruising pleasure.
RIGGING:
STEPPING THE MAST:
1. Before stepping the mast check all standing rigging lengths against the checklist
2. Check all mast light wiring, be sure the masthead anchor light, steaming light and deck
light function, the wires exiting at the base of the spar should be taped up to prevent
damage when the spar is set on the step.
3. Prepare to step the mast in the following sequence:
a) Check all rigging lengths and inspect all end fittings.
b) Attach all shrouds, forestay and backstay. Tape clevis pins and spreader tips, check
all halyards and tape to mast.
c) Connect and check mast wiring and mast light wiring at mast step.
d) Make electrical connections at base of mast for mast lights and check circuits.
e) Run halyards through turning blocks at deck.
f) Tune rigging at dock and when under sail.
TUNING THE MAST:
Your mast is held aloft by the standing rigging (forestay, backstay, upper shrouds, intermediate
and lower shrouds). The term "tuning" refers to adjustment of the standing rigging so that the
mast remains "in column" (not bent) when under load, this is accomplished by following the
procedure outlined below:
AT THE DOCK:
1. Adjust fore stay and backstay so that the mast is straight up and down. Tie a bolt to a 6
to 7 foot long piece of light line to make a quick plumb bob, and tape the free end of the
line to t he front of the mast as high up as you can reach. This devise will help you to
determine if the mast is perpendicular or not. Otherwise, sight your mast with the
comer of a building.
2. Adjust the upper shrouds so that the mast is straight up and down athwartships. That is,
from side to side as opposed to bow and stem.
3. The upper shrouds should be firm but not bar tight. A 50 pound push should deflect the
upper shroud about I" at shoulder height.
17