Catalina 36 User manual

YACHT NAME
C4tAL\~~
pb =a
REGISTRATION OR DOCUMENTATION NO
DATE OF COMMISSIONING
- .-
OWNER'S NAME
s
2
3
*
POR r OF CALL
HULL NUMBER
OWNER'SADDRESS
b
6
.
LENGTH.OVERALL
STANDARD RIG..
...... 36,.4"
.....................
DISTANCEFROMWATERLINETO MASTHEAD
STANDARD RIG
.......................................... 54.6 FT
TALL RIG .................................................. 56.6 FT
FRESHWATER CAPACITY
STARBOARD
.............................................. 17 GAL
AFTCENTER TANK..
.. ..... 25 GAL
'OTWATER ...................................
TOTAL.. ................................................. 48 GAL
WASTE TANK CAPACITY
............................. 21 GAL
FUELCAPACITY..
......................................... 33 GAL
BEAM
....................................... 11'-11"
LENGTH, WATERLINE..
.................................. 30'- 3"
DRAFT
...... ....... STANDARD .... 5'-10"
SHOAL ..................................................... 5'- 1"
DISPLACEMENT
STANDARD..
.................
. . 13,500 EST LBS
..
..........................................
SHOAL 14,300 EST LBS
BALLAST
STANDARD .......
6,000 LBS
...............................................
SHOAL 6,800 LBS
ICE BOX CAPACITY ................................ 5.75 CU FT
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER
SAIL NUMBER
RADIOTELEPHONE CALL NUMBER

..................................
1.1 REFERENCE DATA SHEET 6
COMPIISSIONING CHECK LIST
..................................
2.1 PRE-LAUNCH PROCEDURE 7
2.2 IN THE WATER CHECK LIST
2.201 ELECTRICAL .........w... o..o..**o.*ee.*.....**7
.......................................
2.2.2 PLUMBING 7-8
...........................
2.2.3 RIGGING AND HARDWARE 8
2.2.4 ENGINE ............................... ..*000*0008
2.3 OPERATING CHECK LIST
....................................
2.3.1 FINAL CHECK 9
MAINTENANCE GUIDE
...................................
PRE-USE MAINTENANCE 10
MONTHLY MAINTENANCE .................................. -10
..................................
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE 11
.....................
FIBERGLASS MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR 12
.................
3.4.1 FIBERGLASS TOUCH UP AND REPAIR 1 3-14
.......................
BOTTOM PAINTING AND PREPARATION 15
......................................
TEAK MAINTENANCE 15
SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE ..........................l 5-17
SAIL MAINTENANCE ......................................l 7-18
................
INTERIOR CUSHION FABRIC COVER CLEANING 18
.......................................
3.9.1 CURTAINS 19
YACHT 'SYSTrnS. ' 'DESCRI'PTI'ONS' 'AND 'ILLUS'TRATI'ONS
4.1 RIGGING
..............................
4.1.1 STEPPING THE MAST 19
................................
4.1.2 TUNING THE MAST 20
........................
4.1.3 RIGGING WIRE CHECK LIST 21
......................................
4.1.4 SAIL PLAN 22
............
4.1.5 INTERNAL HALYARD MAST HEAD ASSEMBLY 23
..............................
4.1.6 MAIN SAIL REEFING 24
4.1.7 MAIN~SAIL/BOOM VANG ASSEMBLY
TOPPING LIFT ASSEMBLY
........................ GOOSE NECK ARRANGEMENT -25
....................
4.1.8 MAINSHEET/TRAVELER ASSEMBLY 26
............................
4.1.9 HALYARD ARRANGEMENT 27
......................
4.1.10 DECK HARDWARE ARRANGEMENT 28
4.2
ELECTRICAL
......................................
4.2.1 BATTERIES 29
.....................
4.2.2 D.C. SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM 30
............................
4.2.3 MAIN BATTERY SWITCH 31
..................
4.2.4 MAIN BATTERY SWITCH SCHEMATIC 31
................................
4.2.5 110 VOLT SYSTEM 31
.................
4.2.6 110 VOLT SHORE POWER SCHEMATIC 32
...........................
4.2.7 12 VOLT SCHEMATIC... 33

4.3 PLUMBING
4.3.1 HOT AND COLD PRESSURE SYSTEM PLUMBING
..................................... SCHEMATIC 34
.............................. 4.3.2 MANUAL BILGE PUMP 35
4.3.3
SEACOCKS ....................................... 35
4.3.4 THROUGH HULL LOCATIONS ......................... 36
.......................
4.3.5 MARINE TOILET OPERATIONS 3 7-38
............
4.3.6 MACERATOR PUMP AND TROUBLE SHOOTING 38
4.3.7
HOLDING TANK AND MACERATOR ILLUSTRATION ........ 39
4.4 AUXILLARY POWER
4.4.1 GENERAL ENGINE INFORMATION
..................... 40
4.4.2
PACKING GLAND ASSEMBLY
......................... 40
.............
4.4.3 SHAFT PACKING GLAND (STUFFING BOX) 41
4.4.4 SHAFT ALIGNMENT ................................4 1-42
...................
4.4.5 SHAFT ALIGNMENT ILLUSTRATION 43
4.4.6 FUELING.. ...... ................................4 4-45
4.4.7
FUEL SANITATION ................................. 45
4.4.8 FUEL SYSTEM ILLUSTRATION ........................ 46
4.4.9 EXHAUST SYSTEM MAINTENANCE .....................4 7-48
4.4.10
ENGIlUE EXHAUST SYSTEII ILLUSTRATION ............. 49
4.5 STEERING
4.5.1 EMERGENCY TILLER ............................... 50
4.6
ACCOMODATION
4.6.1 GALLEY STOVE ................................... 51
4.6.2 CABIN ARRANGEmNT. ............................. 52
5.0
' DECOMMI'S'SI'ONING
5.1 WINTERIZING YOUR ENGINE ............................... 53-55
5.2
RECOMMENDED LIFTING PROCEDURE ......................... 56
6.0
'OWNER-USER'RESPONSIBILITY
6.1 GENERAL SAFETY TIPS ................................... 57
.............................
6.2 REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 57-58
............................
6.3 SUGGESTED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 58
6.4
SAFETY PACKAGE. FACTORY OPTION ........................5 8-59
6.5
ANCHORS. ANCHORING AND MOORING. ....................... 59
6.6 LIGHTING PRECAUTIONS ..................................5 9-60
6.7
FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS
USCG BOOKLET (GPO:
19840-418-177)

2.0 COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST
L
2.1 PRE-LAUNCH CHECK :
1. SHAFT TURNS FREELY BY HAND, ZINC COLLAR INSTALLED IF REQUIRED
2. CHECK INTAKE HOSES AND CLAMPS
3. CHECK ALL THROUGH FULL FITTINGS
- -
-
4. DMIN PLUGS TIGHT, ENGINE, MUFFLER, AND EXHAUST LINE
5. BOTTOM CLEAN, PAINTK
6.
HULL SIDES CLEAN, GEL COAT OK
7. DECKS CLEAN
8. TEAK CLEANED AND OILED
9. INTERIOR FINISHED, OILED, CLEAN
10. CUSHIONS, CARPETING, CURTAINS, CLEAN AND IN PLACE
11. TABLE CONVERTS TO BERTH OK, DINETTE, TRADITIONAL TARLE STOWS
12. HATCH LIDS PRESENT AND FIT-OK OK
13. LIFELENES AND PULPITS RIGGED AND OK
14. SPREADERS TAPED AND DRILLED AT BASE END,UPPER SHROUD WIRED TO
TIP END AND TAPED
15. RIGGING LENGTES mP.IFIED WITH CHECK LIST IN KIT
16. MAST AND BOOM 1NSPECTED:COTTER PINS, SHEAVES, TANGS,
SPREADER OK
17. MAST LIGHTS CHECKED BEFORE MAST STEPPED
18. CHECK OVERHEAD FOR ELECTRICAL WIRES FEICH
MAY INTERFERE'WITH
THE SPACE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PAST TO ITS FULL UPRIGHT
POSITION.
IF THERE ARE WIRES OF ANY KIND ANY WHERE NFAR
THE BOAT, DO NOT RAISE THE MAST. MOVE BOAT TO ANOTHER
LOCATION AWAY FROM ANY WIRES. CONTACT WITH WIRE'S CAW
BE FATAL.
2.1 IN WATER CHECK:
2.2.1 ELECTRICAL:
1. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OPERATIONAL:
-
RUNNING CABIN BOW ANCHOR SPREADFRS
PRESSURE- WATER MA~TOR PUMPMASTER
-
2. SHORE POWER~TLET
3. CHECK BATTERY SWITCH #1 #2- OK
4. CHECK BATTERY FLUID LEVK
5. CBECK BATTFRY TERMINAL FOR TIGHTNESS
2.2.2 PLUMBING:
1. NO LEAKS AT THRU HULL FITTINGS WITH SEACOCKS OPEN
2. FILL ALL WATER TANKS
3. CHECK ALL WATER TANKS
4. TEST ALL FAUCETS AND FOOT PUMPS FOR LEAKS
5. CHECK FOR LEAKS AT SINK DRAIN, SINK DRAINS OK
6. PUT WATER IN ICE BOX AND CHECK FOR PROPER DRAINAGE
7. CHECK BILGE PUMP OPERATION, FIANDLE PRESENT
8. CHECK HEAD BY FLUSHING AND PUMPING
9. CHECK SHOWER SUMP DRAIN LINE
10. CHECK KOLDING TANK, PUMP VENT AND FITTING

COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST (CONTD):
-
11. - CHECK HEAD AND PUMP HANDLE FOR LEAKS
12. - MAIN HATCH NO LEAKS, SLIDES FREELY,HATCH BOARDS FIT OK
13.
-
CABIN WINDOWS HOSE TESTED FOR LEAKS
14.
-
ANCHOR LOCKER DRAIN OK, NO LEAKS
15 .- STOVE OPERATES OK: CHECKS, TANK, FUEL LINE, BURNER, AND OVEN
2.2.3 RIGGING AND HARDWARE:
1.
-
MAST STEPPED
2. - PIN, TAPE, AND TUNE STANDING RIGGING
3. - BACKSTAY ADJUSTER, WHISKER POLE, SPINNAKER GEAR, BOOM VANG
4. - BLOCKS, CARS, CLEATS RIGGED OK
5. - TEST ALL WINCHES, WINCH HANDLES PRESENT
2.2.4 ENGINE:
1. - NO LEAKS: SHAFT, RUDDER, STUFFING BOX, OR SHAFT LOG
2. - SHAFT, DIMPLED FOR SET BOLTS AT COUPLING; BOLTS
WIRED AND
COUPLING SECURED
3. - WITH FUEL TANKS FULL, NO LEAKS AT FILL PIPES, OVERFLOW VENT,
OR
ANY FUEL LINE CONNECTIONS
4. - WITH COUPLING DISCONNECTED, ENGINE
AND SHAFT ALIGNMENT OK-
RECHECK ALIGNMENT AFTER RIGGING TUNED
5. - TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL OK
6. - CRANK CASE OIL LEVEL OK
7. - FUEL VALVES OPEN, BLEED AND PRIME LINES IF DIESEL ENGINE
8. - CHECK THAT SHAFT IS COUPLED AND ALIGNED TO .003 MAXIMUM
TOLERANCE
9. - ENGINE WIRE OK, CONNECTIONS TIGHT
10. - THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE TRAVEL AND BRACKETS OK
11.
-
CLUTCH CONTROL CABLE TRAVEL AND BRACKETS OK
12.
-
START ENGINE
13.
-
EXHAUST WATER FLOW OK
14. -. NO LEAKS IN FUEL LINES AT FITTING, FUFL FILTER, FUEL PUMP,
OR INJECTORS
15.- NO ENGINE OR OIL LEAKS
16.
-
IDLING SPEED SET R.P.M.'S
17.- CHECK CHOKE OPERAEN, CHECK SHUTOFF CABLE FOR DIESFL ENGINE
18.
-
CHECK FOREWARD AND REVERSE SHIFTING
19. - CHECK ENGINE INSTRUMENTS FOR OPERATION, TACHOMETER FOR
CALIBRATION
20. RUN IN GEAR FOR TEN (10) MINUTES
21.
-
RECHECK PACKING GLAND AFTER ENGINE STOPS
22.
-
BILGE BLOWER AND VENT SYSTEM OK

COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST (CONTD):
OPERATING CHECK LIST:
1. PEDESTAL STEERING OPERATION OK, COVPASS OK
-
2. SAILS AND HALYARD OK
-
3. BOAT'PERFORMANCEUNDER POWER ANf) SAIL OK
-
2.3.1 FINAL CHECK:
1. - ALL ACCESSORY EQUIPMENT OPERATES OK
2. - ALL BOAT, ENGINE, AND ACCESSORY LITERATURE, AND/OR MANUALS
ABOARD
3. - WARRANTY CARDS COMPLETED AND MAILED, OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
ATTACHED, OWNER INFORMED OF WARRANTY RESPONSIBILITIES
4. - ENGINE WARRANTY CARD COMPLETED AND MAILED

MAINTENANCE
PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:
GUIDE
RIGGING
f. INSPECT TURNBUCKLES TIGHTEN AS REQUIRED.
2. INSPECT CLEVIS PINS AND COTTER PINS.
3. VISUALLY INSPECT SPREADER TIPS AND OTHER AREAS WHERE SAILS MAY
CHAFE DURING SAILING, REPLACE TAPE AS NECESSARY.
4. HALYARDS FREE AND NOT TANGLED.
5. INSPECT MAST HARDWARE ATTACHMENT BOLTS, TIGHTEN AS RFQUIRED.
HULL AND DECK INSPECTION:
1. BILGES AND COMPARTMENTS ARE DRY.
2. THRU HULL VALVES, HOSES, AND CLAMPS,
OK.
3. CHECK RUNNING LIGHTS
ENGINE :
1. CHECK ENGINE OIL AND FUEL LEVELS.
2. PACKING GLAND OK, COOLING WATER INTAKE VALVE OPENS AND CLOSES OK.
3. THROTTLE SHIFT OK.
4. BLOWER SYSTEM.
5. CHECK BILGE AREAS FOR FUEL BEFORE STARTING ENGINE.
MONTHLY MAINTENANCE
:
RIGGING :
1. INSPECT CHAIN PLATES, FASTENINGS, AND BOLTS, TIGHTEN AS NECESSARY.
2. INSPECT BLOCKS, SHACKLES, COTTER PINS.
3. CHECK RIGGING TUNE, TIGGING WIRE CONDITION.
4. CHECK TURNBUCKLES AND LOCKING PINS.
HULL AND DECK:
1. CHECK COCKPIT DRAINS, CLEAR DEBRIS.
2. INSPECT HULL VALVES, OPEN AND CLOSE FREELY.
3. WINCHES TURN FREELY, LUBRICATE AS PER MANUFACTURE'S RECOMMENDATIONS.
4. CLEAN AND OIL EXTERIOR TEAK AS NECESSARY.
5. CLEAN AND WAX GEL COAT SURFACES AS NECESSARY.
ENGINE :
1. CHECK OIL AND FLUID LEVELS.
2. BATTERY: CHECK FLUID LEVELS AND TIE DOWNS.
3. TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS AND NUTS TO PROPER TORQUE.
4. CHECK FUEL TANK FITTINGS, AND HOSE CLAMPS.
5. DISASSEMBLE AND INSPECT COOLING SYSTEM ANTI-SYPHON (LOCATED UNDER
GALLEY COUNTER NEAR SINK).

MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:
RIGGING
:
1. MAST HEAD PTNS AND SHEAVES TURN FREELY.
2. HALYARDS ARF IN GOOD CONDITION
3. SPREADERS TIPS AND BASES, AND MAST FITTINGS
4. ALL SEROUD TERMINATIONS AND SWEDGED FITTINGS,'CHECK FOR CRACKS
OR CORROSION.
5. GOOSENECK ASSEMBLY AND BOOM ASSEMBLY.
6. MAST, BOOM, AND SPREADERS CLEANED AND WAXED.
HULL, DECK, AND CABIN:
1. ALL CHAINPLATES AND THRU BOLTS TIGHT.
2. DISASSEMBLE WINCHES AND LUBRICATE BEARINGS AND PAWLS.
3.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEK AND BATTERY TIE DOWNS, COAT TO PREVENT CORROSION,
AND TERMINAL CONNECTORS.
4. DRAIN AND FLUSH FRESH WATER SYSTEM.
5. CHECK HEAD AND ANTI-SIPHON VALVE IN TOILET.
6. HATCH GASKETS, AND HOLD DOWN DOGS.
7. BOTTOM, KEEL, AND RUDDER CONDITION.
8. LIFELINES, STANCHIONS, AND PELICAN HOOKS.
ENGINE
:
1. CHECK SHAFT ALIGNMENT, REPACK STUFFING BOX IF NECESSARY.
2. CLEAN MOTOR THOROUGHLY.
3. INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM.
4. TUNE ENGINE AS PER MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATIONS.

3.0 MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
FIBERGLASS MAINTENANCE
AND REPAIR:
ONE OF THE MAJOR BENEFITS OF A FIBERGLASS BOAT IS THE ELIXINATION OF
MAINTENANCE CHORES REQUIRED BY OTWR MATERIALS. YOU
HAVE ONLY THREE
RELATIVELY EASY MAINTENANCE RULES TO FOLLOW TO KEEP YOUR BOAT LOOKING
LIKE NEW.
1.
EACH YEAR CLEAN, BUFF, AND WAX THE EXTERIOR OF THE BOAT,
2. TOUCH UP AND PATCH SCRATCHES, SCARS, AND SMALL BREAKS.
3. REPAIR
ANY MATOR BREAKS AS SOON AS POSSIBLE TO AVOID ADDITIONAL
DAMAGE TO THE HULL OR DECKS.
MOST FIBERGLASS BOATS
ARE MANUFACTURED OF TWO "LAYERS" OF MATERIAL,
PERMANENTLY BONDED TOGETHER BY
A CHEMICAL REACTION. THE OUTSIDE SUR-
FACE IS FORMED BY A COLORED GEL COAT. THIS IS A SPECIAL RESIN MATERIAL
CONTAINING CONCENTRATED COLOR. IT PROVIDES A SMOOTH, FINISHED SURFACE.
THE SECOND "LAYER" IS MADE UP OF POLYESTER RESIN REINFORCED WTH LAM-
INATIONS OF FIBER GLASS MAT, CLOTH, OR WOVEN ROVIESC,.-BOTH-THFGEL COAT
AND POLYESTER RESIN
ARE "CURED" BY A CHEMICAL CATALYST WHICH CAUSES
THEM TO FORM A
HARD, STRONG MASS THAT IS HIGHLY RESISTANT TO IMPACT AND
DAMAGE.
AFTER SAILING, A GOOD HOSING DOWN WITH FRESH WATER
AND A MILD DETERGENT
WILL KEEP YOUR BOAT SPARKLING FRESH AND CLEAN. THE NON-SKID SURFACES MAY
NEED TO BE SCRUBBED WITH DETERGENT. SMOOTH GLASS AREAS MAY BE POLISHED
WITH LIQUID WAX OR
ANY GOOD FIBERGLASS WAX TO ADD EXTRA LUSTRE. IN THE
CASE OF OLDER BOATS, WHERE SOME FADING OF
THE GEL COAT HAS OCCURRED, THE
SURFACE SHOULD BE BUFFED WITH POLISHING COMPOUND
AND THEN WAX FINISHED.
WHEN BUFFING THE BOAT TO RESTORE ITS FINISH, CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN NOT TO
CUT THROUGH THE GEL COAT SURFACE. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE ON CORNERS
AND
EDGES OF THE HULL. A POWER BUFFER MAY BE USED OR THE WORK DONE BY HAND,
USING A LIGHTLY ABRASIVE RUBBING COMPOUND SUCH AS MIRRO GLAZE NO.
1 FOR
POWER BUFFERS, OR DUPONT NO.
7 FOR HAND BUFFING. ANY HIGH OUALITY PASTE
WAX MAY BE USED AFTER BUFFING.

3.4.1 FIBERGLASSTOUCH UP
AND REPAIR
Scratches, Shallow Nicks, Gouges, Small Holes
4at do not penetrate through the hull)
- These repairs are easy because only the surface of the boat is da-
maged. They fall into two categories: (1) damage to the gel coat
colored outer surface, and
(2) holes or gouges that are deep enough to
penetrate the fiber glass reinforced area of the boat. The repair opera-
tions are similar.
For damage to the gel coat surface, you will need asmall can of gel
coat, of the same color as your boat, and a small amount of catalyst.
For deeper holes or gouges
(118" or more) you will also need some
short strandsof fiber glass which can be trimmed from fiber glass mat or
purchased in the form of "milled fibers." These materials can be pur-
chased from your dealer.
(1) Be sure the area around the damage is wiped clean and dry.
RE
move any wax or oil from the inside of the hole or scratct
(2) Usingapower drill with a burr attachment, roughenthe bottor
and sides of the damagedarea and feather the edge surroundin
the scratch or gouge. Do not "undercut" this edge. (If th
scratch or hole
is shallow and penetrates only the color gt
coat, skip to step No. 8.)
(3) Into a jar lid or on a piece of cardboard, pour asmall amoun
of gel coat
. . . just enough to fill the area being worked or
Mix an equal amount of milled fibers with this gel coat, usin
a putty knife or small flat stick. Then add two drops o
catalyst, using an eyedropper for accurate measurement. Fo
a half-dollar-size pile of gel coat, this amount of catalyst wil
give you 15 to 20 minutes working time before it begins t~
"gel". Carefully cut the catalyst into the gel coat and mi:
thoroughly.
(4) Work this mixture of gel coat, fibers and catalyst into tht
damaged area, using the sharp point of a putty knife or knifc
blade to press it into the bottom of the hole and to puncturc
any air bubble which may occur. Fillthe scratch or hole abovt
the surrounding undamaged area about 111
6".
(5) Lay a piece of cellophane or waxed paper over the repair tc
cut off the air and start the "cure."

7) Again use the electric drill with burr attachment to rough up
the bottom and edges of the hole. Feather hole intosurround-
inggel coat, do not undercut.
-n 1
11. Immediatelyafter trimming, place another small amount otgel
6) After 10 or 15 minutes the patchwill be partiallycured. When coat on one edge of the patchand cover with cellophane. Then,
it feels rubbery to the touch, remove the cellophane and trim using a rubber squeegee or back of the razor blade, squeegee
flush with the surface, using a sharp razor blade or knife. Re- level with area surrounding the patch. Leave cellophane on
place the cellophaneand allow to cure completely
(30 minutes patch for
1 to 2 hours, or overnight, for a complete cure.
to an hour). The patch will shrink slightly below the surface
as
it cures.
12. USING A SANDING BLOCK, sand the patched area with 600
(8) Pour out a small amount of gel coat into a jar lid or on card- grit WET sandpaper. Finish by rubbingor buffing with
a fine
board. Add
a drop or two of catalyst and mix thoroughtly, rubbing compound. Some slight color difference may be ob-
using a cutting motion rather than stirring. Use no fibers. served. Weathering will blend touch-up, if properly applied.
(9) Using your finger tip or the tip of a putty knife, fill the hole
about
1/16" above the surrounding surface with the gel coat
mixture.
0.
Lay a piece of cellophane over the patch to start the curing
process. Repeat step
6, trimming patch when part~allycured.

MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
BOTTOM BARRIER COATING AND PAINT PREPARATION:
IT IS RECOMMENDED THE UNDERWATER SURFACES BE COVERED WITH A
BARRIER COAT TO PREVENT WATER PENETRATION INTO THE GEL COAT.
BARRIER COATINGS
ARE AVAILABLE FROM SEVERAL PAINT MANUFACTURERS,
AND THEIR COATING RECOMMENDATIONS SHOULD BE CAREFULLY FOLLOWED
FOR A SUCCESSFUL APPLICATION.
FOR THOSE OWNERS WHO APPLY AKTI-FOULING PAINT THEMSELVES, IT
SHOULD BE NOTED THAT MOST BRANDS REQUIRE A: UND~RWATERFIBER-
GLASS SURFACES TO BE VERY CAREFULLY SANDED
AND PRIMED IMMEDIETLY
PRIOR TO THE FIRST APPLICATION ON A NEW BOAT. IN ANY FZENT,
THE INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER OF THE PAINT USED SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED.
ANTI-FOULING PAINT SHOULD BE APPLIED TO THE ROTTOM.OF YOUR
CATALINA
36 . IF IT IS TO BE MOORED IN EITHER FRESH OR SALT '-
WATER FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. THEFE ARE V?Y BRANDS AVAILABLE.
ANTI-FOULING PAINT PREVENTS TEE GROWTH OF ALGAE, BARNACLES, AND
OTHER FOULING ORGANISMS ON UNDERWATER SURFACES. BEFOFE APPLYING
BOTTOM PAINT, THE BOTTOM SHOULD BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED WITH A
SOLVENT TO REMOVE ANY WAX.
TEAK MAINTENANCE:
WOOD TRIM AND PARTS-MOST EXTERIOR WOOD IS TEAK AND CAN BE KEPT
LOOKING GOOD BY OCCASIONAL OILING WITH TEAK OIL.
SHOULD THE TEAK BECOME WEATHERED, CLEANING AND BLEACHING WITH A
COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE TEAK CLEANER AND BLEACH WILL RESTORE! TEE
COLOR OF THE WOOD. THEN OIL THE WOOD WITH A GOOD GRADE TEAK OIL
TO RESTORE THE GOLDEN COLOR OF THE TEAK. DO NOT USE WIRE OR
HARD
BRISTLE BRUSHES ON THE WOOD, AS THIS WILL REMOVE THE SOFTER WOOD
BETWEEN THE ANNUAL RINGS AND LEAVE A ROUGH SURFACF.
SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE:
STANDING RIGGING:
YOUR BOAT IS EQUIPPED WITH STAINLESS STEEL STANDING RIGGING, DACRON
RUNNING RIGGING, TO GIVE YOU YEARS OF TROUBLE FREE SERVICE.
HOWEVER, DO TO NORMAL WEARSANDTEAR, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT A
PERIODIC INSPECTION BE ,WIDE ON ALL FITTINGS AND WIRE. TURNBUCKLES
SHOULD NEVER BE NEGLECTED AND SHOULD BE UNSCREWED FROM TIYE TO
TIME IN ORDER THAT THEY DON'T SIEZE. EVERY THREE MONTHS SHOULD
BE ABOUT RIGHT FOR THE AVERAGE SAILOR. A SLIGHTLY BENT TURN-
BUCKLE SHAFT OR BROKEN WIRE IN YOUR SHROUDS SHOULD BE REPLACED
IMMEDIATELY.
UNDER MOST CONDITIONS,
1 X 19 STANDZNG RIGGING HAS A SAFE "I'?ORKINGW
LIFE SPAN OF APPROXIMATELY FIVE YEARS: SEVEN YEARS UNDER IDEAL
CONDITIONS. FACTORS WHICH REDUCE THE LIFE OF THE WIRE ARE
ENVIROMENTAL FACTORS SUCH AS HIGH HUMIDITY (FLORIDA, THE CARIBBEAN,
AND GULF STATES): HIGH SALINITY (GREAT LAKE, GULF STATES, OR
MOORING NEAR A SEA WALL WITH CONSTANT SALT SPRAY); EXTREMES IN
TEMPERATURE; AND INDUSTRIAL POLLUSTION (PULP MILLS, GENERATING
PLANTS,
ACID RAIN, AND SMOG). HIGH LOADING OF THE RIGGING AS

3.0 MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
REQUIRED IN MOST RACING BOATS ALSO INDUCES STRESS IN THE
RIGGING SYSTEM*
MANY OF US HAVE TO DEAL WITH AT LEAST ONE OF THESE CONDITIONS
AND SHOULD CONSIDER REPLACING STANDING RIGGING NEARER THE FIVE
YEAR LIMIT.
UNLIKE RUNNING RIGGING WIRE ROPE, WHICH GIVES US CLEAR SIGNS
THAT IT IS DETERIORATING BY BROKEN STRANDS AND "MEAT HOOKS",
STANDING RIGGING MAY GIVE NO SIGN THAT FAILURE IS IMMINENT.
THE USUAL POINT OF FAILURE OF STAY OR SHROUD IS APPROXIFATELY
1/4" INSIDE THE BOTTOM SWEDGED THREADED STUD FITTING WHICH
THREADS INTO THE TURNBUCKLE BARREL.
ALTHOUGH THE STUD IS COMPRESSED AROUND THE WIRE DURING THE
SWEDGING PROCESS, SALT WATER AND POLLUTANTS WORK DOWN INTO
THE TINE CAVITIES BETWEEN THE WIRE STRANDS AND THE INEVITABLE
CORROSIVE PROCESS STARTS IN THE CREVICE THE FIRST TIME THF
RIGGING BECOMES WET WITH SALT WATER.
A COMMON METHOD OF VISUALLY MONITORING SWEDGE FITTING CONDITIONS
EMPLOYED BY DISTANT RACERS AND CRUISERS IS TO DAB A SMALL RING
OF ENAMEL PAINT AROUND THE JOINT BETWEEN THE WIRE AND THE SWEDGE
FITTING. THIS WILL HELP PROVIDE A MEANS TO SEE
IF THE WIRE IS
PULLING OUT OF THE FITTING.
ANOTHER TECHNIQUE USED TO CHECK THE CONDITION OF SWEDGE FITTINGS
IS A "DIE PENETRANT" TEST. THIS SIMPLE TEST WILL DETECT ANY
CRACKS WHICH MAY DEVELOP IN THE FITTINGS DUE TO INTERNAL PRESSURE
FROM THE CORROSIVE PROCESS. INEXPENSIVE DIE TEST KITS USUALLY
ARE AVAILABLE AT MOST WELDING SUPPLY STORES. DIE TESTS USUALLY
ARE NOT REQUIRED BY WEEKEND SAILORS, BUT MAY RE DONE BEFORE
AN
EXTENDED CRUISE OR OCEAN PASSAGE IF ANY DOUBT ABOUT TFE INTEGRITY
OF THE RIGGING EXISTS.
ALL STAINLESS STEEL WIRE ROPE RIGGING WILL DEVELOP SOME RUST FILM
WHEN NEW.THIS IS NORMAL.
THE RUST IS CAUSED BY TWO FACTORS. WHEN WIRE ROPE IS MANUFACTURED,
THE WIRE STRANDS ARE FED OVER STEEL ROLLERS DURING TEE PROCFSS
OF TWISTING OF LAYING THE WIRE. TRACE AMOUNTS OF THE-FEmQUS
STEEL FROM THE ROLLERS AND DIES ARE TRAPJSFERRED TO THE WIRE
STRANDS. AS THIS SMALL AMOUNT OF STEEL RUSTS IT CAUSES A FILM
ON THE NEW WIRE.
THE SECOND CAUSE OF THE RUST FILM ON NEW WIRE ROPE IS TEE
MICROSCOPIC VEINS OF FERROUS MATERIAL WHICH EXIST IN ALL STAIN-
LESS STEEL. AFTER
A PERIOD OF TTFIE, AS TEE SURFACE MATERIAL
VEINS ARE DEPLETED, AND THE STAINLESS STEEL HAS BEEN CLEANED
SEVERAL TIMES, NEW RUST FILM DEVELOPMENT F?ILL SLOW TO A MINIMUM.
FOR THE AVERAGE SAILOR, THE BEST INSURANCE AGAINST A RIGGING
FAILURE IS A PERIODIC (EWRY SIX MONTHS IS RECOMMENDED) INSPECTION
OF ALL RIGGING PARTS, INCLUDING TURNBUCKLES, AND REPLACEMENT OF
STANDING RIGGING AS REQUIRED.

MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
FITTINGS
:
MARINE FITTINGS TODAY NEED LITTLE MAINTENANCE. DECK HARDWARE
SHOULD BE HOSED DOWN WITH FRESH WATER AFTER EACH SAIL IN SALT
WATER. STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS SUCH AS PULPITS AND LIFELINE
STANCHIONS SHOULD BE CLEANED AND WAXED PERIODICALLY TO MAINTAIN
THEIR APPEARANCE. WINCHES REQUIRE OCCASSIONAL CLEANING AND
LUBRICATION. WHERE POSSIBLE, A MAINTPNANCE BROCHURE FOR YOUR
WINCHES HAS BEEN INCLUDED IN THIS MANUAL. MASTHEAD FITTINGS,
HALYARD SHEAVES, ETC., SHOULD BE INSPECTED, CLEANED, AND
LUBRICATED PERIODICALLY. KEEP YOUR EQUIPMENT CLEAN OF DIRT
AND SALT.
SPARS
:
LIKE ALL OTHER FITTINGS, MAST AND BOOMS SUFFER FROM SALT WATER,
AIR AND SPRAY. THESE SHOULD BE KEPT WAXED WHERE POSSIBLE, AND
AT LEAST ALWAYS HOSED DOWN WITH FRESH WATER. ALWAYS SEE THAT
THE HALYARDS ARE TIED OFF AWAY FROM THE MAST. THIS WILL ELIMINATE
SLAPPING IN THE WIND, AND SUBSEQUENT MARKING OF THE bIAST. KEEP
TACK PIN (WHICH IS LOCATED ON FRONT OF BOOM) WILL LUBRICATED,
AS THE STAINLESS STEEL PIN CAN BECOME SEIZED IN THE ALUMINUM
GOOSENECK CASTING WITHOUT PROPER LUBRICATION.
FIND A HIGH PRESSURE NOZZLE AND SHOOT FRESH WATER TO THE TOP OF
THE MAST AND SPREADERS. THIS WILL HELP KEEP YOUR SAILS CLEAN
TOO, AS THEY RUB ON THE MAST AND SPREADERS.
INSPECT SPREADERS AND SPREADER BRACKETS FOR SIGNS OF FATIGUE.
SEE THAT ENDS OF SPREADERS ARE WIRED AND WELL COVERED WITH TAPE
TO PREVENT WEAR ON THE SAILS.
SAIL MAINTENANCE:
SAILS SHOULD NEVER BE PUT AWAY
PET. IF THEY ARE WET AFTER
SAILING, LEAVE THEM LOOSE IN RUNDLES AND DRY THEM AT YOUR.
FIRST OPPORTUNITY.
FOR MOST PROBLEMS SUCH
AS COMVON DIRT, DRIED OR CAKED SALT,
ETC., TRY SCRUBBING THE SURFACF FTITP A SOFT BRISTLED BRUSH
AND LIOUID DFTERGENT
. AVOID FARSF POWDER DFTBRGENTS AND
STIFF BRUSHES, AS TBEY YAY DAMAGF THF FINISH OR STITCFINC.
THIS APPROACH SHOULD WORK NICFLY FOR MOST APPLICATIONS.
MORE SWERE STAINS CAW RF TACKEN CARF
OF FY THE FOLL017ING:
* IMPORTANT: FORWHTTE SAILS OIJLY!
.BLOOD: SOAK THE STAINED PORTION FOR 10-20 YINUTES IN A
SOLUTION OF RLEaCP (CLOROX) AND
WARM WATER. GENFRALLV 10
PARTS WATER TO 1 PART BLEACH. SCRUB AND REPFAT IF NECESSAY.
RINSE THOROUGHLY, PARTICULARLY NYLON, AND DRY COMPLETE1,Y.
OIL, GREASE, TAR AYD WAX: WARM TflATER, SOAP AND ELROW GRFASE
SEEM TO BE EFFECTIVE. ON PARD STAINS, PROPRIETY STAIN REMOVF'R
AND DRY CLEANING FLUIDS SHOULD DO THE TRICK.
RE CAREFUL TO
REMOVE ALL FLUIDS. AS THEY CAN SOFTEN THE VARIOUS RESINATED
COATINGS ON SAILCLOTH.
17

MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
RUST AND METALLIC STAINS: THESE TYPES OF STAINS ARE VERY OFTEN
THE MOST FRUSTRATING AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, FIRST
SCRUB WITH SOAP AND WATER, AND APPLY ACETONE, M.E.K.,
OR ALCOHOL. AS A LAST RES0.RT8 YOU MIGHT TRY A DILUTED
MIXTURE (5%) OF OXALIC SOAKED FOR 15-20
minutes.
hydrochloric acid, 2 PARTS TO 100 IN WARM WATER, WILL
ALSO.WORK.
MILDEW: HOT SOAPY WATER WITH A LITTLE BLEACH WILL GENERALLY
PREVAIL. AFTER SCRUBBING, LEAVE THE SOLUTION ON THE
FABRIC FOR A FEW MINUTES AND RINSE THOROUGHLY. WHEN
USING A BLEACH, A RESIDUAL CHLORINE SMELL MAY BE Pm-
SENT AFTER RINSING. A 1% SOLUTION OF THIOSULPHATE
(PHOTOGRAPHER'S EYPO) SHOULD REMOVE ALL CHLORINE TRACES.
HERE AGAIN, RINSE AND DRY WELL.
PAINT AND VARNISH: ACETONE AND M.E.K. SHOULD REMOVE MOST COMMON
PAINT AND STAINS. VARNISH CAN BE EASILY RFKOVED WITH
ALCOHOL.
TEMPERKOTE OR MYLAR SAILS ARE STILL NEW AND EXPERIMENTAL, AT
THIS POINT IN TIME, AVOID MOST SOLVENTS, AS THEY CAN DAMAGE THF
FABRIC OVER A PERIOD OF TIME. SOAP AND DILUTED BLEACHES SHOULD
TAKE CARE OF MOST STAINS.
GENERALLY SPEAKING, USE ALL SOLVENTS WITH CARE. ALWAYS RINSE
AND DRY THOROUGHLY. IT SHOULD BE EMPHASIZED THAT NYLON RIPSTOP
SPINNAKER FABRICS ARE LESS DURABLE
AND MORE SENSITIVE THAN THEIR
POLYESTER COUNTERPARTS. BLEACHES AND SOLVENTS CAN RUIN NYLON
IF NOT USED PROPERLY.
FOLLOW THE ABOVE GUIDELINES, TAKE YOUR SAILS INTO YOUR SAILMAKER
FOR PERIODICAL INSPECTION, AND I'M SURE YOU WILL HAVE MANY
EFFECTIVE SEASONS OF RACING AND CRUISING PLEASURE.
INTERIOR CUSHION, FABRIC COVER:
CLFANING
:
1. REGULAR VACUM CLEANING OR BRUSHING IN THE DIRECTION OF THE
PILE WITH A SOFT BRUSH.
2, STAINS SHOULD, IF POSSIBLE, BE REMOVED AT ONCE WITH A DAMP
CLOTE, DO NOT ALLOW STAINS TO HARDEN AND AGE,
3. GREASY STAINS CAN BE REMOVED WITH ORDINARY CLEANING FLUID.
4. FOR OVERALL CLEANING, USE COMMERCIAL TYPES OF UPHOLSTERY
SHAMPOO USING ONLY THE FOAM TO PROTECT THE BACK PADDING
FROM MOISTURE. AFTER A MINUTE OR SO, REMOVE FOAM, AND WHEN
DRY, VACUM OR BRUSH IN THE DIRECTION OF THE PILE.
5. DO NOT USE HEAT SUCH AS AN IRON OR STEAM.

3.9.1 CURTAINS :
WHEN CURTAINS BECOME SOILED, DO NOT HAND OR MACHINE WASH,
FOR IT WILL WEAKEN THE MATERIAL. DRY CLEANING IS THE RE-
COMMENDED PROCEDURE FOR THE REMOVAL OF ANY DIRT OR STAINS.
YACHT SYSTEMS
RIGGING
:
4.1.1 STEPPING THE MAST:
CAUTION: THE AMULINUM
AND OTHER METAL PARTS CONDUCT
ELECTRICITY COMING
IN CONTACT WITH OR NEAR AN ELECTRICAL
POWER LINE OR LIGHTNING CAN CAUSE SEVERE INJURY OR DEATE.
STAY AWAY FROM OVERHEAD ELECTRICAL POWER LINES WHEN SAIL-
ING AND/OR LAUNCHING THE BOAT,
WHEN TRAILERING YOUR BOAT ALT4AYS TRY TO
UNDO AS LITTLE
RIGGING AS POSSIBLE, IT IS NECESSARY ONLY TO UNDO THE
TWO FORWARD LOWER SHROUDS AND THE FORESTAY BEFORE LOW-
ERING THE MAST,
BEFORE RAISING JazASTt MAKE SURE HALYARDS ARE NEATLY TIED
DOWN
AND THAT THEY ARE ON PROPER SIDES OF THE SPREADERS.
YOU SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT TO RAISE THE MAST UNLESS THE
UPPER SHROUDS (THOSE THAT PASS OVER THE SHROUDERS) AND
THE
AFT LOWER SHROUDS ARE ATTACHED TO THE DECK FITTINGS
AND THE TURNBUCKLES WELL 'STARTED' INTO THEIR BARRELS.
THE TURNBUCKLES MUST NOT BE COMPLETELY TIGHTENED HOW-
EVER, BECAUSE SLACK IS NEEDED
IN THE SHROUDS TO ENABLE
THE MAST
TO BE FULLY RAISED. THE BACKSTAY SHOULD BE
ATTACHED TO THE TRANSOM CHAINPLATE. THE UPPER SHROUDS,
AFTER LOWER SHROUDS, AND BACKSTAY WILL KEEP THE MAST
FROM FALLING OVER WEN ITS RAISED
, THEREFORE, ALL OF
THESE MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE CHAINPLATES BEFORE THE
MAST IS RAISED.
YAKE SURE THAT THE SHROTJDS AND STAYS ARE NOT FOULED.
BACKSTAY SHOULD LIE CLEAR OF THE TFLANSOM, YOU MAY STEP
THE MAST ON LAND OR WEILE THE BOAT IS
IN THE WATER. IT
SEEMS TO BE EASIER
ON LAND BECAUSE THE BOAT IS WTILL.
ALSO, IT KEEPS OTHER SAILORS FROM GZTTING IMPATIENT
WHILE
THEY WAIT FOR YOU TO MOVE OUT OF THE LAUNCH AREA.
WALK THE MAST AFT AND D3OP THE MAST FOOT INTO THE TABER-
NACLE LOCATED ON TOP OF THE DECK, KEEPIl?G THE PAST
IN
CENTER LINE OF BOAT INSERT THE PIVOT BOLT AND LOCKING
NUT,
ONE CREW MEMBER SHOULD PULL ON A LINE TIED SECURELY TO
THE FORESTAY WHILE ANOTHER PUSHES UP ON THE MAST AND
WALKS FROM THE COCKPIT FORWARD, WITH THE MAST ERECT,
ATTACH THE FORESTAY AND FORWARD LOWER SHROUDS.

4.1.2 TUNIXG THE MAST :
YOUR MAST IS HELD ALOFT BY' THE STANDING RIGGING ( FORESTAY,
BACKSTAY, UPPER SHROUDS, FORE AND AFT, LOWER SHROUDS). THE
TERM "TUNING" REFERS TO ADJUSTMENT OF THR STANDING RIGGING
SO THAT THE NZAST REMAINS "IN COLUMN"( NOT BEN) WHEN UNDER
LOAD, THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE OUT-
LINED BELOW:
CAUTION: THE ALUMINUM AND OTHER METAL PARTS CONDUCT
ELECTRICITY COMING IN CONTACT WITH OR NEAR AN ELECTRICAL
POWER LINE OR LIGHTNING CAN CAUSE SEVERE: INJURY OR DEATH.
STAY AWAY FROM OVERHEAF ELECTRICAL POWER LINES WHEN SAILING
AND/OR LAUNCHING THE BOAT.
AT THE DOCK
1. AD2'UST FORESTAY AND BACKSTAY SO TYAT THE MAST IS STRAIGHT
UP
AND DOWN. TIE A BOLT TO 6 TO 7 FOOT LONG PIECE OF
LIGHT LINE TO MAKE A QUICK PLUMB ROB, AND TAPE THE FRFE
END OF THE LINE TO THE FRONT OF THE MAST AS
HIGH UP AS
YOU CAN REACH. THIS DF37ISE WILL HELP YOUR TO DETERMINE
IF THE MAST IS PERPENDICULAR OR NOT. OTHERWISE, SIGHT
YOUR MAST WITH
THE CORNER OF A BUILDING.
2. ADJUST THE UPPER SHROUDS SO THAT THE MAST IS STRAIGHT
UP.AND DOWN ATWARTHSHIPS. THAT IS, FROEn_ SIDE TO SIDE
AS OPPOSED TO BOW AND STERN.
3. THE UPPER SHRCUDS SHOULD BE FIRM BUT NOT BAR TIGHT.
A
50 POUND PUSH SHOULD DEFLECT THE UPPER SHROUD AROUT
1" AT SHOLDER HEIGHT.
4. THE LOWER SHROUDS (4 OF THEM) SHOULD BE ADJUSTED SO TFAT
THEY ARE LOOSER THAN THE UPPER SIIROUDS. WHILE AT DOCK,
THEY SHOULD HAVE NO SLACK, BUT NO TENSION EITHER. NO
LOWER SHROUD
, WHEN PUSHED, SHOULD DEFLECT THE MAST
MORE THAN
ANY OTHER SHROUD WHEN PUSHED EOUALLY HARD.
IF THIS CAN'T BE ACHIEVED, THE UPPER SHROUDS ARE TOO
TIGHT. BACK OFF ONE FALF TURN AT A TIME OF THE UPPER
SHROUD TURNBUCKLES UNTIL THE TENSION 011
THE LOWER SHROUDS
IS BROUGHT INTO RALANCE.

112" WlTH 112" PIN
-
STANDARDRIG EXTRUSION 50'-2"
TALL RIGEXTRUSION 52'-2"
I-
D'
DESCRIPTION LENGTH
BACKSTAY
FORESTAY 45'-5 112" 46'-11 1/2"
UPPERS 1 42'-10314" 1 44-8 112"
AFT LOWERS 1 22'-101/4" 1 23'-10114"
FWD LOWERS
22'-7" 23-7"
TOPPING LIFT
39'-0 41 '-0
TOPPING LIFTTAIL 20'-0" 22'-0
JIB HALYARD
115'-0 117'-0"
MAIN HALYARD
115'-0" 117'-0
SPINNAKERHALYARD 105'-0" 107'-0"
3 lonc5-rfiq @OR qoon a.3 45i5'1/rJ' 47-'3YC
MATERIALS
7
1/4"- 1x19 - 12
3132"-1x19 (@ATGO) 1
1/4" DACRON
/
1
318"
LS. DACRON 1
3/8 LS. DACRON 1
318'' LS. DACRON 1
q6-/XI? 1
(I) SYL, (1) NO ~m.1/4
END
NOTES:
(1) TOLERANCE f 112"
(2) MEASUREMENTSFROMCENTER OF EYETO CENTER
OF EYEOR ENDOF STUD.
CATALINA YACHTS INC.
2 1 200 VICTORY BLVD.
WOODLAND HILLS,CA
I
RIGGINGWIRE LENGTHCHECK LIST
I ,, CATALINA 36 OWNERS MANUAL 4.1.3

GOOSENECK
(J
I
112 DIAMETER
DLTAIL1.C.
MAINSAILCLEW
MTA1L"W'
STEMHEAD WELDMENT
STANDARD
RIG
CATALINA YACHTS INC.
21 200 VICTORY BLVD.
WOODLAND HILLS,
CA
\
SAIL PLAN
22
CATALINA 36 OWNERS MANUAL 4.1.4