Chevrolet Impala SS User manual

impala SS
Handbook
Original by Karl Frost "QaloSS"
Updated version by Ash Carlton "whteglve"
with help from many others.
In conjunction with,
www.impalassforum.com

Introduction.....................................................................................................................................................4
Maintenance.................................................................................................................................................... 5
Brakes...........................................................................................................................................................6
Stealth Brake Bolt and Metering Bolt Mod.............................................................................................. 6
Chassis / Suspension.................................................................................................................................... 9
Body Bushings, Lower..............................................................................................................................9
Body Bushings, Upper............................................................................................................................ 12
Buick Brace.............................................................................................................................................12
Coil Spring Replacement, Front..............................................................................................................12
Coil Spring Replacement, Rear...............................................................................................................13
Rear ControlArm Replacement..............................................................................................................14
Rear ControlArm Replacement, Lower..................................................................................................14
Rear ControlArm Replacement, Upper..................................................................................................15
Rear End Bushing Removal....................................................................................................................15
Shock Replacement.................................................................................................................................16
Sway Bar Replacement, Front.................................................................................................................17
Cooling System.......................................................................................................................................... 18
Bleeding The System.............................................................................................................................. 18
Flushing The Radiator.............................................................................................................................18
Heater Core Flush....................................................................................................................................19
Temperature Sensor Replacement...........................................................................................................20
Thermostat Replacement.........................................................................................................................20
Electrical.....................................................................................................................................................23
Headlight Instrument Panel Illumination................................................................................................23
Opti-Spark Installation............................................................................................................................24
Opti-Spark Conversion............................................................................................................................25
Plug and Wire Change.............................................................................................................................27
Changing Plugs, Stock Manifolds........................................................................................................28
Changing Plugs, Headers..................................................................................................................... 29
PowerAntenna Replacement.................................................................................................................. 33
RebuildingAPowerAntenna..................................................................................................................37
Reprogramming Key Fobs...................................................................................................................... 43
Exhaust.......................................................................................................................................................45
EGR Valve Replacement.........................................................................................................................48
Fuel System................................................................................................................................................50
Fuel Filter Change...................................................................................................................................50
Fuel Pump Removal................................................................................................................................50
Repairing the Fuel SSender.....................................................................................................................54
New Sending Unit...................................................................................................................................60
General Maintenance..................................................................................................................................62
Air Filter Replacement............................................................................................................................ 62
Broken Window Roller Fix..................................................................................................................... 62
ifferential Oil Change...........................................................................................................................70
oor Panel Removal............................................................................................................................... 71
Oil Change...............................................................................................................................................72
Resetting the Change Oil Light............................................................................................................72
Oxygen Sensor Replacement.................................................................................................................. 73
PCVValve Replacement......................................................................................................................... 73
Transmission Fluid Change.....................................................................................................................74
ModificationSS............................................................................................................................................. 76
Basic Modifications....................................................................................................................................77

Bow Tie Install........................................................................................................................................ 77
Throttle Body Bypass..............................................................................................................................78
Electrical.....................................................................................................................................................80
Antenna Switch....................................................................................................................................... 80
Pass Key Fault isable............................................................................................................................81
Radio Wiring Chart................................................................................................................................. 83
Tachometer..............................................................................................................................................83
Tail Light, Add Center Brake Light.........................................................................................................85
Tail Light, Lens Bucket Modification ....................................................................................................89
Tail Light, Light Bulbs............................................................................................................................ 90
Exhaust.......................................................................................................................................................92
Exhaust Science emystified..................................................................................................................92
IntakeAlternatives....................................................................................................................................102
Home Plate Removal.............................................................................................................................104
Sewer Pipe Mod.................................................................................................................................... 104
Swiss CheeseAir Box........................................................................................................................... 106
Z28 Cluster Swap.....................................................................................................................................107
General Information.................................................................................................................................... 110
ABITS (Opti-Spark)................................................................................................................................. 111
Part Numbers............................................................................................................................................142
Specifications & imensions...................................................................................................................158
Torque Specifications...............................................................................................................................159

introduction
The original “QaloSS’ Impala SS Handbook” was written by Karl Frost (aka: QaloSS on several forums).
He created the original handbook after purchasing his 1995 Impala SS, “Butch”, on November 1, 1999 with
139,000 miles on it. His thoughts were “When you purchase a high mileage car, you will need to do some
repairs in the coming months.” After he bought his car, he knew
that it car was special, as we all do, and knew there had to
be more people who loved these cars just as much as
he did, which we do. Well after several run-
ins with disaster, “Butch” departed for
the highway in the sky in June 2003
when a pine tree fell on it, totaling it.
Karl also wanted to create a
reference guide for beginners and just a
helpful little tool for anyone who owns a
B-body. He never had enough
information to go by or enough
knowledge to back up his findings. Just
like we all have at one point or another. He learned a lot more and had plenty of hands on experience with
many procedures and mods. He hoped that this guide would help at least one-person work their way through a
repair or modification. I am sure that it has helped a few of us, me being one that it has.
R.I.P. “Butch”
1995-2003
Now it’s my turn. My name is Ash Carlton “whteglve”. Since I first saw the 1991 Caprice I liked the
styling of it, but it wasn’t until ecember 2000 that I really fell in love. A co-worker came in the office one
Monday morning and said, “I found your new car”. That Friday, ecember 3, 2000 a friend and I drove two
hours away to where I met and test-drove “Elaine”, a black 1996 Impala SS. I purchased her on ecember 6,
2000. He later told me that he knew I was going to buy the car when he saw the look on my face when starting
it for the first time. I began taking auto body classes at the local community college so I could learn to do all
the things I wanted to do to her. She developed the wonderful P0300 code and in the course of trying to figure
it out and getting married, she was parked. Heck, my ownership of “Elaine” has out lasted my marriage. I still
have the car to this day and I’m slowly bringing her back from the dead, hence her new name, “ZombeaSSt”.
I’m not claiming in any way that I’m the author of any of the material in this version of the handbook. All
I did was slight corrections, modifications, simplifications and gathering more information together into an
updated version ofthe great original “QaloSS’ Impala SS Handbook”.
I hope that I speak not only for myself but for Karl Frost and the many others associated with this newer
version ofthe handbook when I say I hope that it helps you enjoy your car even more than you already have.
ISCLAIMER: The following information is meant to be a reference guide ONLY. It is intended to help on any modifications or
repairs by fellow B-Body owners. It was not created to be sold and should not be sold under any circumstances. If you do not think
you are capable of completing the repair/modification, then O NOT attempt it. All credits are given and stated by the appropriate
entries. The author(s) and/or people quoted in this guide are in no way responsible for any damages or injuries caused by any of the
procedures or repairs listed in this manual. Always use the proper safety equipment while performing any car repair. If you will be
underneath any vehicle, always use good quality jacks and jack stands that are comparable to the proper weight requirements.

Maintenance

6
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Braking
Brakes
Stealth Brake Bolt and Metering Bolt Mod
We lost a lot of great info on the Brake Bolt Upgrades in the crash of '09. Here is a brief overview of the
problem and solutions with information collected over the years. Much credit due to the people who pioneered
these solutions. The Stealth Brake Bolt and "Bolt II" Metering Bolt are two of the easiest, cheapest, and most
beneficial mods that you can perform on your B-body. Read on to find out why!
Background
The combination valve in the Impala SS / Caprice performs the following functions:
1. Front/rear brake bias (also called proportioning)
2. Metering (delay) offront brakes.
3. Shuttle switch for hydraulic failure offront or rear brakes.
Because the Impala was made in such small numbers, GM didn't bother to design a specific combination-
valve for the SS. The bean counters at GM installed the exact same brake proportioning valve in the 1991-93
Caprice (drum rear brakes) as the 1994-96 Impala SS/Caprice 9C1 (4 wheel disc brakes). This causes two
problems:
Bolt locations.
1. Proportioning: isc brakes have much greater
braking power than drum brakes, so cars with rear
drum brakes use a mechanism to reduce the pressure
to the rear drums - this way, the front brakes do most
of the work. Factory brake proportioning is 95%
front and 5% rear, which is ideal for cars with drum
rear brakes. In a 4-wheel disc car, however, you want
the rear brakes to do more than 5% of the work
(because the brakes are much more capable). The
result of the 95% front / 5% rear proportioning in a
4-wheel disc car is accelerated front pad wear and
excessive brake dive under heavy braking. The rear
pads are just along for the ride and last practically
forever. The brake proportioning is controlled by a
19mm hex bolt on the front of the combination-
valve.
2. Metering: rum brakes take time to "energize." Cars with rear drum brakes use a mechanism to delay the
onset of the front brakes so that all 4 brakes engage simultaneously. This "metering function" allows the
return springs in the rear drums to be stretched to the point of drum/brake-lining contact before engaging
the front brakes. In a 4-wheel disc car - like the Impala SS and Caprice 9C1 - this delay is unnecessary
and hurts the reaction speed of your brakes, ultimately resulting in longer stopping distances. In a hard
stop, the front brakes will not engage at the same time as the rear brakes. The brake metering is controlled
by a 19mm hex bolt on the rear ofthe combination-valve.
Solutions:
Fortunately, for all of us Impala SS / Caprice 9C1 owners, there are solutions for these two problems.
The Proportioning problem (problem #1 above) is solved by replacing the stock 19mm hex bolt on the front of
the combination-valve with a nifty little piece called the Stealth Brake Bolt. The stock bolt is vented and holds
a spring and red aluminum plunger in place (see below). The Stealth Brake Bolt replaces the stock vented bolt

7
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Braking
Stealth Brake Bolt Instructions
Tools:
• 19mm hex socket
• Adjustable wrench
• Ratchet
• Needle nose pliers
• Paper towels
Procedure:
1. Place some paper towel or a shop rag underneath the combination-valve.
2. Remove the rubber vented cap and paper tag from the stock bolt (located on the front of the combination-
valve).
3. Use the adjustable wrench to hold the combination-valve body. Loosen the stock bolt (located at the front
ofthe combination-valve) with the ratchet. Be careful not to bend the brake lines.
4. Remove the bolt by hand and use the needle nose pliers to extract the spring and red aluminum valve. Be
sure that the red aluminum valve has a black plastic "doughnut" at one end. If not, you will have to
remove it from the combination-valve with a paper clip or other suitable tool. iscard the spring and red
valve.
5. Hold the combination-valve body with the adjustable wrench and install the new Stealth Brake Bolt.
6. Reinstall the rubber vent cap and paper tag (to retain stock appearance).
7. BLEE THE BRAKES (procedure not covered here) and check for leaks, especially around the Stealth
Brake Bolt.
and the spring and red aluminum plunger are discarded.
It's that simple - after that is done, your brakes are now
proportioned at approximately 65% front and 35% rear!
The Metering problem (problem #2 above) is solved
by replacing the 19mm hex bolt on the rear of the
combination-valve with a different bolt, commonly
referred to as the "Bolt II" Metering Bolt. The stock
metering bolt is aluminum and is comprised of an
integral hex nut, rubber o-ring, and a male threaded
section. It is a solid bolt and is machined to have two
stepped, concentric metal solid cylinders. The innermost
metal cylinder is the longest part and it serves as a
mechanical stop for the brake safety shuttle switch
(should it engage due to a hydraulic failure), as well as
Stealth Bolt (left) and Metering Bolt (right)
serving to reduce the brake fluid volume in the front-brake section of the combination valve. The outermost
cylinder also serves to reduce the brake fluid volume in the front-brake section of the combination valve, but
its main purpose is an inexpensive metering valve. When the bolt is screwed into the combination-valve
assembly, the outermost cylinder covers 50% of the orifice used to feed the front brake line with brake fluid
pressure.
This can be a bit of a confusing description - the main point is that part of the stock metering bolt
covers a hole, causing a brake fluid flow restriction and causing the delay in engagement of the front
brakes.

8
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Braking
"Bolt II" Metering Bolt Instructions
Tools:
• Ratchet
• Shallow 19mm socket
• Adjustable wrench
• Brake fluid
• Plastic bags
• Paper towels
• Shop rag
• Turkey baster
Procedure:
Stealth Bolt (left) and Metering Bolt (right)
1. Place paper towels inside plastic bags. Place plastic bags underneath back of combination-valve to catch
brake fluid.
2. Use the adjustable wrench to hold the combination-valve body. Loosen the stock bolt (located at the rear
ofthe combination-valve) with the ratchet. Be careful not to bend the brake lines.
3. Remove the bolt by hand and discard. Replace it with the new "Bolt II" Metering Bolt.
4. Remove the cover of the master cylinder reservoir and remove the old brake fluid using the turkey baster,
down to almost to the bottom of the front and rear reservoir. Wipe the remaining "sludge" from the bottom
ofthe reservoirs.
5. Refill each reservoir halfway, and bleed the brakes (procedure not covered here).
6. Check for leaks, paying close attention to the new bolt that you just installed.
7. Replace the master cylinder reservoir cover.
8. Start the car and press the brake pedal. The pedal should be hard and feel tight.
9. Re-check for leaks.

9
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Chassis / Suspension
Body Bushings, Lower
New vs. Old Size comparison
Pink and Green Bushings
Scott Mueller’s website is referenced at http://www.theherd.com/articles/bushings.html for most of this
information. Read his site for more information on the reason why this mod is needed. We’ve all heard about
this modification many times. The one thing you’ll found out is that you should’ve done it earlier! This
procedure is easy even for someone is isn’t mechanically inclined. To begin you need the proper parts.
The pink bushings you will need are slightly thicker than the stock ones to allow a better cushion to the
frame with the exception of the Green ones, which fit better at Point 7.
There are 16 total points on the frame but Point 5 requires no lower bushings and the 2 under the radiator
do not make much of a difference and I have been told to not mess with those due to the location of the
radiator, so you will only need 12 total bushings; 10 pink, 2 green. People have mentioned the need for
different bolts for position three. The stock ones are fine and you will not need new ones unless your old ones
have deteriorated or rusted or you are replacing the upper bushings as well from the 9C1 package.
Part Number escription Approx. Price
377801 Stock 5/8” thick soft rubber (Black) $7.16
457917 New 3/4” thick firm rubber ( ark Green) $4.24
457915 New 7/8” thick firm rubber (Pink) $5.41
›You will need 10 of the Pink ones and 2 of the Green ones.
Point 7 Typical Opening
Notes:
›Points 1-3 do not have any lower bushings, only a
washer and bolt. You will not need to use this washer
with the new bushings.
›When installing the bushings from Points 1-4 be sure
not to catch any wires or cables.
›Points 4-7 (minus Point 5) will have the old bushing
and bolt with no washer, simply discard the old
bushing and re-install a new one.
›Points 1,2,3,4, & 6 use the pink bushings, and Point 7
uses the green ones.
›All Points have a large opening in the frame with the
exception of Point 3 that has a small hole to insert your
socket wrench.(See in Procedure)

10
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Point 3 Opening
›When installing the bushings, the cupped end goes
against the frame. Each bushing has a washer inside
it on the flat end. The bolt head should go against it.
›Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs as Scott suggests rather
than the factory 50 ft/lbs.
›When removing the bolts, Use a breaker bar or pipe
to slip over your wrench.
›When installing the new bushings, the bushing will
not sit snug against the frame. The upper bushing
fits into the lower bushing with metal tube with
rubber around it so there will be a small gap
between the lip and the frame so don’t get mad or
keep tightening the bolt thinking they will or you’ll
strip the hole. Some have fixed this problem by
doubling up on the bushings or using shorter bolts
all around.
Tools:
• 15 mm socket wrench w/ 6-inch extension.
• Torque wrench (optional)
• Breaker bar or pipe to slip over you wrench to help break the bolts loose (if needed)
• Car jack and jack stands (optional).
• And of course, your bushings
Procedure:
1. You will need to raise one side of the car on jack stands to allow better access to the bolts and make for an
easier install. Which end you start at depends on you, but it’s a good idea to go from Point 1 to Point 7.
2. Point 1 is directly behind the front tire at the end of the curve towards the engine. It’s hard to see the bolt
but it’s there. Remove the bolt and washer, install the bolt and new pink bushing with no washer, and
tighten to specs.
3. Point 2 is a foot down from Point 1 right at the elbow of the frame. Remove the washer, bolt, install the
bolt and new pink bushing with no washer, and tighten to specs.
4. Point 3 is a little harder to spot because the hole isn’t as large as the others are. It is in the middle between
the doors. You can actually look around the edge ofthe frame to see the bolt. Remove the bolt and washer,
replace with a new pink bushing and no washer, and tighten to specs.
5. Point 4 is right in front of the rear tire. Remove the bolt and old bushing, reinstall with a new pink
bushing, and tighten to specs.
6. Point 5 is above the rear tire in the bend but requires no lower bushing. You may not be able to see it.
7. Point 6 is behind the rear tire. Remove the bolt and old bushing, replace with a new pink bushing, and
tighten to specs.
8. Point 7 is at the end of the frame. Remove the bolt and old bushing, replace with a new green bushing,
and tighten to specs.
9. After finishing one side, move the jack stands to the other side and repeat.

11
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Body bushing locations.

12
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Body Bushings, Upper
New vs. Old Upper Bushings
Busted Upper Bushing
The Upper bushings are a different story. You will need to lift the body from the frame for those. Here is
an example of a busted upper bushing.
The front coils are harder to replace than the rear, which are very easy. You may want to go ahead and have
someone install these for you, but if you are hard headed then go for it. o these one at a time and keep your
day open, it will take a while.
Tools:
• Spring Compressor
• Pitman Puller or fork
• Jack and jack stands
Materials:
• New Insulators
Buick Brace
Coil Spring Replacement, Front
Buick Brace
This brace comes on a Buick Roadmasters but
people have put it on their B-bodies to stiffen the rear
portion ofthe frame.

13
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Coil Spring Replacement, Rear
These are MUCH easier than the fronts.
Tools:
• Spring Compressor
• Pitman Puller or fork
• Jack and jack stands
Materials:
• New Insulators
Procedure:
1. Raise the vehicle by the axle and place jack stands under the frame.
2. Leave the jack in place, lower the axle until it is at rest, and stop.
3. There should be enough room to simply pull the spring out by hand but if there isn’t then remove the
bottom of the shocks by unscrewing the nut on the end of the lower control arm and lowering the axle a
little bit more.
4. Use a piece of tape to hold the new insulators in place while you put it back in.
5. Make sure the spring are set in the holders attached to the axle and not blocking the little drain hole.
6. Reinstall the nuts on the shocks ifneeded and raise the vehicle back up offthe jack stands.
7. Remove the stands, lower the car, sit back and enjoy!
Procedure:
1. Jack up the corner you’re working on and place it on jack stands by the frame, you’ll need the jack for the
spring install.
2. Remove the shock. See Shock Replacement.
3. Remove the wheel and disconnect the lower part of the spindle and sway bar end links.
4. Use your spring compressor to compress the spring. Now place your jack under the control arm to brace it
and remove the bolt on the ball joint. Use your special tool and break the ball joint loose.
5. Lower the control arm and remove the spring.
6. Compress your new spring and install the new insulator on top & bottom. A piece of tape will hold them
on b/c without it, the insulator will get misaligned and cause squeaking later.
7. After it is in place, raise the control arm back up and reinstall in the reverse order.
› WARNING!!! There is a possibility that the spring may slip while doing this. Catching a face full of
spring will cause serious injury ifnot worse!!!

14
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Rear Control Arm Replacement
Tools:
• Jack and jack stands
• Sockets and Ratchet
• Wrenches
Well, the lowers are very simple and the uppers are easy to remove as well, but the main thing you need to
be concerned with is the alignment of the axle. O NOT remove all arms at the same time. Go one by one, so
it will be easier to reinstall the arms. You will likely have an adjustment to be done to get the bolts to line up
but it shouldn’t be more than nudge to the rear tires here and there.
Before starting to replace either the uppers or lowers, you’ll need to decide ifyou want to remain stock or,
if you want to get extended and center the rear wheels. Remember to select what brand you need. Also, don’t
forget that stock arms are okay but if you are going to use aftermarket arms, the extended arms may be a
better choice. See Preferred Brands, Control Arms.
Now, when choosing extended or stock length, please keep in mind a couple of different things. The
change does not help you any as far as performance, except maybe a longer stance and slightly better handling
but no one has ever said it was noticeable. The main purpose is to center the rear wheels. If you haven’t
noticed already, the rear wheels sit a little forward in the wells. Some don’t like this look and some don’t care.
If you decide to go with extended arms, there are other issues. One is maybe getting a new driveshaft, or
you can get a longer yolk, with getting a longer driveshaft being the better option. It will work for a while if
you change neither, but the seal to the transmission will grow weak and soon you will be wishing you took
more time researching this procedure.
Rear Control Arm Replacement, Lower
Procedure:
1. First, chock the front wheels and lift the rear of the
car by the differential, then place jack stands under
the frame. Lower the jack, until the axle is at rest,
then lift back up a little and support the axle with
the other two jack stands. It is important you
support the axle in its normal position.
2. The lowers are a cinch. Remove the sway bar,
unbolt and replace the arms one at a time. See Sway
Bar Replacement.
Lower Rear Control Arms from UMI Performance

15
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Rear Control Arm Replacement, Upper
Procedure:
1. The uppers are the same way but the bolts
connecting the arms to the body are difficult to get
to and are large, maybe 21 or 22mm. You’ll need a
socket in that size as well as a wrench to hold the
nut. Removing those bolts from the holes is
somewhat difficult but a few whacks of a hammer
and they’ll come out. If you flatten the threads,
don’t worry, the new arms come with new bolts but
just check to be sure before starting.
Now, the hardest and most time-consuming part of
the replacement is the bushing removal. If you don’t
have a bushing removal tool like the one pictured here.
Rear End Bushing Removal
Background:
When removing the control arms, there's no need to disconnect the brake lines and therefore, no brake
bleeding.
Upper Rear Control Arms from UMI Performance
This is definitely one ofthe times where the old saying “the right tool for the right job” applies.
Follow the rear end bushing removal instructions inserted below. It’s recommended to use a bushing
removal tool because you tend to beat the mess out of the new bushing ifnot. Also, when you use the puller to
remove the shaft from the middle of the bushing, use a bolt laying around and drill an indention in the tip and
let the bolt do the pushing and not the tip of the puller bolt. You don’t want the place you rented it from, or
yours, to get damaged.
Safety:
1. Jack up the car as high as possible, chock the front wheels and put jack stands under the car.
PLEASE TAKE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AS YOU WILL BE UNDER YOUR CAR FOR A
WHILE.
2. Remove the bolt holding the brake line to the axle
housing (at the top ofthe diff).
3. Open the tabs along the housing to detach the brake
lines from it.
4. While lowering the axle, bend the lines down for
more slack. Be careful not to put and kinks in the
line. Bend it smoothly and evenly.
5. Installation is the reverse.
Tools:
• Gear puller
• Sawzall or Jigsaw (Sawzall is preferred)
• Rubber mallet
• Hammer
Bushing Tool from HR Parts N Stuff

16
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Shock Replacement
Tools:
• Lisle Shock Absorber Tool
Procedure, Front:
1. Raise the corner you are working on and place on jack stands by the frame.
2. It is easier to do by removing the wheel but you don’t have to take it off.
3. Look at the top of the fender well and you will see the retaining nut for the shock. Remove the nut. You
may run into rust or the nut will stick. Spray with a rust breaker or penetrating oil and continue after
letting set for a few minutes.
Replacing the shocks is easy for these cars but you may run into a snag when it comes to the upper
connections.
After you remove the control arms, lower the rear end and frame to work on it, do the following:
Procedure:
1. With the rear end as low as possible, put a block of wood (or similar) on both sides of the rear end to
stabilize it.
2. Get a gear puller, which has the center bolt approximately the same diameter of the inner metal sleeve in
the bushing. You'll place the puller on the backside of the bushing (facing the rear of the car) and pushing
the metal sleeve towards the front ofthe car.
3. You'll notice that the bushing casing has an outer lip. Using a 3-prong puller and attach it there and
centered the bolt on the metal sleeve. You can use a ratchet to push the sleeve out the other side. You can
use an open-end wrench as well.
4. epending on the type of puller you use and how long the center bolt is, you may need some extra length
to push it completely out.
5. Once you have the sleeve out, now use a sawzall to cut a wedge out of the rubber bushing. You will only
be able cut in certain areas due to things getting in your way. Alternatively, you can use a jigsaw but the
blade won't be long enough to cut it all the way through. You'll have to cut it from both sides. Yes, the
rubber will start to smoke and smell horrible.
6. Once there's a wedge out, cut the outer metal sleeve (facing the front of the car) through the wedge you've
just cut out - cutting lengthwise from the back stopping at the axle. Make a few cuts. You can also cut the
entire length of the metal housing but be careful not to cut into axle housing.
7. After you cut it, use a hammer to collapse the outer sleeve in. You don't have to completely collapse it.
Just as long as the outer sleeve starts to come away from the axle housing.
8. Use a rubber mallet (anything with a big surface area) and hit it from the side facing the front ofthe car so
the bushing flies out towards the back ofthe car.
Lisle Shock Absorber Tool
›Tip: The stem it is on will usually have a pattern so
you can grip it with pliers to hold it while you
remove the nut.
4. Now go to the bottom and unscrew the 2 retaining
nuts. The shock should slide directly out of the
spring. Raise the vehicle some more if you need
more clearance to get it out while on the ground.
5. Reinstall in the reverse order.

17
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension
Procedure, Rear:
1. Raise the vehicle by the axle and place jack stands under the frame.
2. Leave the jack in place, lower the axle until it is at rest, and then raise it back up just a hair.
3. If you have another set of jack stands, you can put those under the axle while doing this, but if not a jack
will do fine.
4. Remove the nuts at the bottom of the shock and slip it offthe lower control arm.
5. Now, here is the tricky part. The more room you have, the better it will go. Remove the wheel and the
spring. See Coil Spring Replacement.
6. Okay, two bolts hold the top in. Only one needs to be completely removed. The shock bracket has two
sides, one is a complete hole and the other is a crescent so it will slide from around the bolt. Which one is
it? Only you will know.
7. Use a LONG extension to your socket wrench to reach the bolts and use a small wrench to get to the get
to the top side. You will be working blindly getting on the nuts on the top but be patient and you’ll get it.
8. Reinstall in the reverse order. Usually people will turn the bolts around for the top part of the shock so it
will be easier reinstalling them. Truth is, GM should have tack welded the nuts into place when they built
the car. The most important thing to remember is to be patient through this process.
Sway Bar Replacement, Front
Procedure, Front:
1. Raise the vehicle and place jack stands under the
frame.
2. Remove the end links that connect the sway bar
ends to the spindle, but keep track of the order of
the bushings and washers in case you are reusing
your old ones.
3. Remove the four bolts that attached the brackets to
the frame (two in each bracket). Be careful, the
sway bar is heavier than it looks so don’t let it fall on your face!
4. Reinstall in the reverse order. If you use urethane bushings, you can grease them up to lengthen their life
and reduce squeaking.
Procedure, Rear:
1. Raise the vehicle by the axle and place jack stands under the frame.
2. The sway bar is held on by 4 bolts to the lower control arms, 2 to each side.
3. Remove the bolts and don’t let the sway bar hit you in the face! Remember, it is heavier than it looks!
4. Reinstall in the reverse order.
When you finish, take your beast for a ride. You WILL notice a difference.
› Remember, to fully optimize your new sway bar, get new bushings and/or end links when replacing. They
are around $16-$20, purchased at your favorite parts store.
Front and rear sway bars.

18
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Cooling System
Tools:
• Flat head screwdriver
• Rags and bucket
• Clear Hose (not required)
Park your car where the rear is lower than the front
if possible or even jack up the front end. The point is to
get the bleed valve higher than the heater core. Let the
engine cool preferably overnight. Slightly open the
bleeder screw and let the air out. This may take a couple
of tries but once all of the air is out, no more waterfall
sound.
Another popular mod is to install a quarter turn ball
valve (1/8-27 thread) and a barb in place of the original factory bleeder assembly (two-piece bleeder bolts).
See. Attach a length of clear tubing, to see the bubbles, that will reach over to the coolant overflow tank or
another suitable container. With this mod, it is easier to bleed the air out of the system without worry of
coolant getting on the opti-spark or spillage. After bleeding, the hose should be replaced by a cap to help keep
the barb fitting clean.
1/4 Turn ball valve with hose barb and clear tubing.
Cooling System
Bleeding The System
Here is a great way to change the anti-freeze / flush the system and not get the dreaded waterfall noise.
Tools:
• Socket wrench
• Flat head screwdriver
• Rags and bucket
• Anti-freeze
IMPORTANT!!! If your car is hot, do not pump cold water into the motor! Let the engine cool first! We will
not be held responsible for someone cracking their block or head because they were impatient.
Procedure:
1. Place an appropriate sized container under the car to catch any spilled coolant.
2. Remove the plastic resonator on top of the motor (Home Plate) as well as the resonator between the air
box and home plate (First Base) if you haven’t deleted them already. See Home Plate Removal and First
Base Removal for more detail.
3. Take the overflow breather offand let it drain into a bucket. This will siphon a 1/3 ofthe anti-freeze out of
the motor.
4. Remove bottom hose to drain radiator. Ifyou don't want to drain radiator skip to step five.
Flushing The Radiator

19
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Cooling System
5. Put bottom hose back on and remove the top hose near the air box.
6. Start car and let it push the remainder of the coolant out of the system. Using a hose run water into the
overfill container. It will suck it into the motor about as quickly as the garden hose can fill it. Continue
doing this until you see no more coolant come out. You might want to cycle the heat on to get water
through the heating core. It might take a little bit for the thermostat to open but when it does all the old
gunk and coolant comes out. When finished, thoroughly wash off all of the anti-freeze off the front of
your car. That stuffcan't be good for the paint.
7. When all the old coolant is gone, stop putting water into the overflow tank. Let the motor pump dry.
When the water starts to surge out of the hose shut her down. You still have about 2 gallons in the system.
8. Put all the hoses back on tightly, and start to fill the overflow container with straight anti-freeze.
Remember there is still 2 gallons ofwater in the motor.
9. Start motor and let it suck everything in through the overflow. When it won't take anymore and the stat
has opened (top hose will be warm) then open the bleeder valve going into the thermostat. See Bleeding
the System.
10. Put the resonators back in place on the motor, if you are using them, and make sure all hoses are on and
tight. o not forget the little overflow hose.
11. Keep adding until you are at the cold fill mark and go drive for a few days. Top off some morning to the
cold fill and you are done.
Heater Core Flush
Tools:
• Socket wrench
• Flat head screwdriver
• Rags and bucket
• Bucket
Procedure:
1. Put a bucket or pan beneath and slightly ahead of the serpentine belt tensioner. You may have to readjust
the bucket once the draining starts.
2. isconnect heater core hoses at the water pump. These are the two smaller hoses facing the passenger
side, towards the battery. The lower hose and pipe will dump a bunch ofcoolant out of the engine into the
bucket. Be sure it doesn't get all over the opti-spark behind the crank damper.
3. Take a garden hose, put it up against the lower hose, and run until it goes clear. Soon people believe that
getting bubbles in the flow will help clean everything out.
4. Now switch to the pipe and back flush.
5. Repeat spraying water into the lower hose until the heater core water runs clear or it hacks up a hairball.
6. Repeat Steps 3-5 a few times to be sure you’ve cleaned everything out of the system.
7. Reassemble cooling system, fill up the expansion tank and screw the cap on.
8. Bleed the system.
9. At this point, the heater should start getting hot. Repeat until you've replaced all ofthe coolant you lost.
›BTW - keep the rest of the cooling system closed up when you do this. o not try to be slick and hook a
hose to your bleeder valve, open the reservoir cap and dump the extra fluid back in. It is self-defeating.
Just open the bleeder valve and put a rag or paper towel next to it; leave it cracked open a turn until
coolant starts coming out, then close it up. rive around for a few heat cycles, repeat.

20
SS Handbook
Maintenance: Cooling System
Temperature SSensor Replacement
Tools:
• Socket wrench
• Adjustable wrench
There are two different sensors. There is one on the water pump which sends readings to the PCM, and
there is one in the passenger’s side manifold that sends reading to you gauge on the dash.
Both sensors can be unscrewed with a crescent wrench but it is recommended that you use a deep socket.
Both of these sensors may also be replaced at the same time as the water pump is without the need to worry
about coolant leaking.
Water Pump Sensor
The water pump sensor is simple to replace. Simply unscrew the sensor from the water pump after
disconnecting the electrical connector. Have the new one ready with Teflon tape on the threads and install it
when the old one is removed. Coolant will leak so have some rags or bucket handy to catch any leaking
coolant.
Manifold Sensor
This one is more difficult and the most common cause of gauge problems. Raise the vehicle, and feel
around the middle of the engine around the headers. o this when the car is cool. The sensor will be covered
in a heat resistant silver coating to repel heat. Pull back the wrapping and disconnect the sensor harness.
Slowly unscrew the sensor until loose enough to finish it by hand. Coolant will come out of this hole pretty
fast so you will need to be quick and do not have your face looking directly up at the sensor or you will regret
it. Once you get the sensor out, quickly install the new one, wipe off any excess coolant and reconnect the
sensor.
Thermostat Replacement
Tools:
• Socket wrench
• Flat head screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Rags and bucket
• Pliers
• New screw driven hose clamp for larger hose
• Siphon tool (not required)
Procedure:
1. Remove Home Plate and First Base. See Home Plate Removal and First Base Removal for more detail.
Once you have everything off, you will see the gooseneck coming out of the water pump. Your thermostat
is underneath that neck.
2. Release the petcock at the bottom of the radiator on the driver’s side to lower the level of coolant to
prevent a lot ofspillage. Not too much, just a little will do.
3. Now remove the hose clamp from the upper radiator hose leading into the water pump (you will need
pliers for the original clamp). Before you remove the hose, have some rags and/or a bucket to contain the
spillage.